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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 21 |
| + | |
| + | Sinai glides by. |
| + | Here are the Wells of Abraham. Here are the “Twelve Apostles”—fantastic little islands. |
| + | Here is Jeddah, the gateway to Mecca. |
| + | The Moslems on the steamer are praying toward the East, where, behind the pink sands, is |
| + | hidden their center. To the right the boundaries of Nubia are lying like an ancient |
| + | cornice. The hulks of wrecked vessels cleave to the reefs. The Red Sea can be merciless |
| + | as can the Arabian sandstorms. Not in vain does the fiery finger of the Stromboli |
| + | Volcano threaten and warn by night. But now in the winter the Red Sea is blue, not hot, |
| + | and the dolphins leap in mad merriment. In a fairylike design lie the Arabian Bays—Korya |
| + | Morya. |
| + | |
| + | The Japanese do not lose an opportunity to visit the Pyramids. This nation does not |
| + | waste time. One should see how quickly and sharply their field-glasses move about. And |
| + | how persistently practical are their questions. Nothing superfluous. This is not the |
| + | vacant touring of tired Europe. “Well, now finally we will come to an understanding,” |
| + | says the Japanese in a businesslike way without any sentimentality. And may this |
| + | businesslike attitude be the guarantee of cooperation! |
| + | |
| + | In Cairo in the mosque sat a boy of seven or eight and chantingly read the lines of the |
| + | Koran. One could not pass by without noting his penetrating striving. And in the walls |
| + | of that same mosque was boldly imbedded the cannon-ball of Napoleon. And that same |
| + | conqueror of empires broke the image of the Great Sphinx. |
| + | |
| + | But if the sphinx of Egypt is mutilated, the sphinx of Asia remains safeguarded by the |
| + | great deserts. The treasures of the heart of Asia are preserved and its hour has come. |
| + | |
| + | Ancient Ceylon—the Lanka of the Ramayana. But where are the palaces and pagodas? It is |
| + | strange. In Colombo we are met by the Swiss Consul. The policeman is Irish. A French |
| + | peddler. A Greek with post-cards. Dutch tea-peddlers. An Italian chauffeur. But where |
| + | are the Singhalese? Have they all emigrated to Europe? |
| + | |
| + | The first aspects of Buddha and Maitreya reveal themselves in the Kelaniya Temple near |
| + | Colombo. The powerful images are guarded in the dusk of the temple. Hinayana prides |
| + | itself before many-varied Mahayana on the refinement and purity of its philosophy. |
| + | |
| + | The great restored stupa near the temple reminds one of the ancient foundation of this |
| + | place. But, after all, only in fragments do Colombo and Ceylon recall the ancient |
| + | Lanka of Hanuman, Rama, Ravana and other giants. |
| + | And for Buddhism, Ceylon is an important site. Many temples and palaces guard the |
| + | fragments of one of the best periods of the Teaching. Outside of the ruins which are |
| + | known, numerous unsuspected treasures are buried under the roots of powerful jungles. |
| + | That which has remained above the soil gives an idea of the past splendor of the former |
| + | mighty city. You do not need to search for the places. They proclaim themselves. But |
| + | exploration can only give results if it is carried on in a broad measure. One must |
| + | approach such ruins fully fortified, as one palace alone has nine hundred chambers. |
| + | Ceylon is an important site. |
| + | |
| + | The public baths near the bitter-sweet mountain, Lavinia, do not suggest the domain of |
| + | ancient giants. Slender palms shame-facedly bend down to the spray of the tide. Like |
| + | skeletons stand the fragments of Anuradhapura; consider that Anuradhapura is not |
| + | entirely explored. And Adam’s Peak is not enticing. By the remains of Anuradhapura one |
| + | may judge how powerful was Borobodur in Java. |
| + | |
| + | And again, ceaselessly, are gliding by the faces of our fellow travelers: the Japanese, |
| + | with whom we wept over the remains of the Cairo Pyramids, which have passed from a |
| + | valiant history to become the curio-museum of a greedy guide. |
| + | |
| + | Is it really India? A thin shore line. Meager little trees. Crevices of dessicated soil. |
| + | So does India hide its face from the south. And the black Dravidians as yet do not |
| + | remind us of the Vedas and Mahabharata. |
| + | |
| + | Multicolored is Madura with the remains of Dravidian strata. All the life, all the nerve |
| + | of the exchange, was near the temple. In the passages of the temple are the bazaar, the |
| + | court, the sermon, the reciter of the Ramayana, the gossip, and the sacred elephant who |
| + | wanders in freedom; and the camels of the religious processions. The ingenious stone |
| + | carving of the temple is colored with the present-day crude colors. Sarma, the artist, |
| + | sorrows over it. But the city council did not listen to him and colored the temple |
| + | according to their own plan. Sarma is saddened that so much of fine understanding is |
| + | gone and has as yet been replaced only by indifference. |
| + | |
| + | He warns us not to go far in our European attire because some elements of the population |
| + | may be hostile. After all, Madura is a city of one million. Sarma inquires about the |
| + | condition of artists in Europe and America. He is genuinely surprised that the artists |
| + | of Europe and America can live by the labor of their hands. It is incomprehensible to |
| + | him that art can provide a means of livelihood. With them, the occupation of artist is |
| + | the most profitless one. There are almost no collectors. Sarma himself, tall, in white |
| + | garments, with sad, calm speech, awaits something better, and knows all the burden of |
| + | the present. |
| + | |
| + | There was no possibility of a meeting with Tagore. Strangely such things happen in life. |
| + | In London, the poet found us. Then in America we succeeded in meeting him in New York; |
| + | and he also met George in Boston. But in India itself we did not meet! We could not go |
| + | to Bolpur and Tagore could not be in Calcutta. He already was preparing for his tour in |
| + | China. |
| + | |
| + | There were many curious occurrences. In Calcutta we tried to find Tagore. We thought |
| + | that in his native city his name would be known on every corner. We took a motor and |
| + | requested to be taken straight to the poet Tagore, and in vain we rode for three hours |
| + | through the city. First we were taken to the Maharajah Tagore. Then a hundred policemen |
| + | and peddlers and passingBabus |
| + | |
| + | sent us into the most varied alleys. Finally six volunteer guides were hanging on our |
| + | motor. And so we ourselves, in this bushy manner, finally remembered the name of |
| + | Dwarkanath Tagore Street where the house of Tagore was situated. |
| + | |
| + | It is said that when Tagore received the Nobel prize, a deputation from Calcutta came to |
| + | him, but the poet severely asked them: “Where were you before? I remain the same person, |
| + | and the prize has not added anything to me.” Greetings to Tagore! |
| + | |
| + | We met the relations of our friend Tagore—Abanindranath Tagore, brother of Rabindranath, |
| + | artist head of the Bengal School. Gogonendranath Tagore, nephew of the poet, also an |
| + | artist, secretary of the Bengal Society of Artists. Now he imitates the modernists. A |
| + | splendid artist is Kumar Haldar, present Director of the School in Lucknow. Hard is the |
| + | life of the Hindu artist. Much resolution is needed in order not to abandon this thorny |
| + | path. Greetings to the artists of India! Why is it that in all countries of the world |
| + | the condition of scientists and artists is so precarious? |
| + | |
| + | Thorny also is the way of the Hindu scientists. Here, before us is an example, in a |
| + | struggling young scientist Bose Sen, a biologist and pupil of Sir Jagadis Bose. He began |
| + | his laboratory in the name of Vivekananda. In his peaceful little house above the |
| + | laboratory is a room dedicated to the relics of Ramakrishna, Vivekananda and other |
| + | teachers of this group. This young man, pupil of the closest pupil of Vivekananda, |
| + | carries into life the principles of this master, who fearlessly proclaimed his evocation |
| + | to action and knowledge. In this little top chamber he formulates his thoughts, |
| + | surrounded by the things which belonged to his beloved leaders. One remembers vividly |
| + | the portraits of Ramakrishna and his wife. Both faces impress one with their purity and |
| + | striving. We sat in complete silence near this memorial hearth. Greetings! |
| + | |
| + | Who can explain why the path of knowledge and beauty is the most difficult? Why does |
| + | humanity accept with such hesitation all that is predestined? It is therefore the |
| + | greater joy, to see in India, the signs of an ascent of knowledge and art. It is joyful |
| + | to see that in India the number of schools is increasing and that legions of new |
| + | enlightened workers for science and beauty are ready to serve in the victory of |
| + | evolution. |
| + | |
| + | In Calcutta, not far behind the city, are two monuments to Ramakrishna. On one shore, |
| + | Dakshineswar, the Temple where long lived Ramakrishna. Almost opposite, across the |
| + | river, is the Mission of Ramakrishna, the mausoleum of the teacher himself, of his wife, |
| + | of Vivekananda, and a collection of many memorable objects. Vivekananda dreamt that here |
| + | should be a real Hindu University. Vivekananda took care of this place. There is a great |
| + | peace here and it is with difficulty that one realizes oneself so near to Calcutta with |
| + | all the terror of its bazaars and confusion. |
| + | |
| + | We met Sister Christine, almost the only living pupil of Vivekananda. Her useful work |
| + | was broken up by the war. And now, after the lapse of many years, Sister Christine has |
| + | returned again to the old site. The people are changed. The consciousness is consumed |
| + | with local problems. And it is not easy for Sister Christine to find contact with the |
| + | new waves of Hindu life. |
| + | |
| + | On the memorial day of Ramakrishna, as many as half a million of his admirers gather. |
| + | |
| + | From the purest to the most hideous. In special streets of Bombay, behind bars, sit the |
| + | women prostitutes. In this living merchandise which clings close to the bars, in these |
| + | outstretched hands, in their calls, is contained the whole terror of bodily desecration. |
| + | And a Hindu Sadhu passes through with his burning incense in order to purify the spot! |
| + | |
| + | When we entered the Chartered Bank of India— the sacred cow came out of the door to meet |
| + | us; and how strikingly amusing was this correlation of bank and sacred cow! |
| + | |
| + | The tigers roar in Jaipur. The Maharajah has forbidden any one to shoot them. In Golta |
| + | Pass two tribes of monkeys are at war. The guide arranges a battle for a most reasonable |
| + | fee. Nowadays all battles may be arranged thus easily! |
| + | |
| + | The Fakirs are seated, “charming” the old, half-living toothless cobras. The pitiful |
| + | Hatha-yogi is whirling in the bazaar, performing his gymnastic contortions for the |
| + | purification of his spirit. “The spiritualist” offers to make the carriage move without |
| + | horses, but to do this it is necessary “that there should not be one cloud in the sky.” |
| + | |
| + | And along with this is a fantastic and romantic fragment of old Rajputana—Amber where |
| + | the princesses looked down from their balconies upon the tournaments of their suitors; |
| + | where every gate, every little door, astonishes one by the correlations of its beauty. |
| + | Near here is the penetrating and fantastic Golta Pass which could not be imagined in any |
| + | fantasy—only the “play” of life can accumulate such unexpected creations. And here also |
| + | is Jaipur with its fairylike astrological observatory and with the charm of an unspoiled |
| + | Hindu Moslem city. Fatehpur-Sikri, Agra—rare chips of a departed culture. And the |
| + | frescoes of Ajanta are already unsafe. |
| + | |
| + | All the remains of the constructions of Akbar have a veil of seeming sadness. Here the |
| + | great Unifier of his country buried his best visions so misunderstood by his |
| + | contemporaries. In Fatehpur-Sikri, he conversed with his wise Birbal, and with the few |
| + | who had attained his level. Here he built the temple of universal knowledge. Here he |
| + | lost his few friends and foresaw that the welfare of the State created by him, would not |
| + | be preserved. And Agra and Fatehpur-Sikri are full of a kind of limitless sorrow. Akbar |
| + | knew how the well-being which he bestowed on his people would be pillaged. Perhaps he |
| + | already knew how the last emperor of India would live to the middle of the nineteenth |
| + | century, peddling the furniture of his palace and chipping from the walls of his palace |
| + | in Delhi the fragments of mosaics. |
| + | |
| + | With all the dustiness gathered by time, the architecture of Benares still retains its |
| + | charm. All the mixture of form of the old Hindu, Dravidian and Moslem, can give new |
| + | solutions to the unprejudiced architect. One can easily imagine a combination of the |
| + | many-storied Tibetan structure, with the comforts of an American sky-scraper. One can |
| + | draw a parallel from the palaces of Benares to the palaces of Venice and to a livable |
| + | private dwelling. One can develop the style of American pueblos, with the newest |
| + | understanding, as is being done in Santa Fe. |
| + | |
| + | A Hindu complained to me of the lack of Hindu architects. I said to him, “If there are |
| + | no architects, let an artist develop an idea, but let him proceed from out of the |
| + | harmony of the folk consciousness combined with the character of its nature.” The whole |
| + | world must not be defiled with some generic bungalow. One cannot make out of Java a |
| + | Swedish Stockzund. And one cannot visualize Comanches and Apaches in the houses of |
| + | Boston. Commensurability must be observed. |
| + | |
| + | On the shores of the Ganges, a gray-bearded man, cupping his palms like a chalice, |
| + | offers his entire possessions to the rising sun. A woman counting quick rhythm performs |
| + | her morning pranayama on the shore. In the evening she may again be there, sending upon |
| + | the stream of the sacred river a garland of lights as prayers for the welfare of her |
| + | children. And these fireflies of the woman’s soul, prayer-inspired, travel long upon the |
| + | dark watery surface. Beholding these offerings of the spirit one can even forget the |
| + | stout priests of the golden temples. We are minded of other things. We recall those |
| + | Yogis who send into space their thoughts, thus constructing the coming evolution. Not |
| + | the usual priests these, but active hermits; they are bringing our thought near to the |
| + | energy which will be revealed by scientists in the very near future. |
| + | |
| + | Gigantic stupas of Buddhism—burial mounds surrounded by a fence. The same Kurgans of all |
| + | centuries and nations. The Kurgans of Upsala in Sweden; Russian Kurgans of Volhov on the |
| + | way to Novgorod; the Steppe Kurgans of Scythians, surrounded by stones; all tell the |
| + | legends of the same solemn cremations which have been described by the skillful Arabian |
| + | traveler, Ibn Fadlan. Everywhere, the same purifying conflagrations. |
| + | |
| + | Everywhere, much incense, rose water and fragrant sandalwood. Hence the smoke from the |
| + | bodies in the Burning Ghats of Benares is not turbid. And in Tibet, also, cremation is |
| + | used. |
| + | |
| + | Regard the gentle child games of the Orient—and listen to the complicated rhythms of the |
| + | chants and soft music. There are not evident the profanities of the West. |
| + | |
| + | The Maharajah of Mysore is awakened with special songs—songs of beginning and of end. |
| + | |
| + | In Madura in a crowded alley, an old man models the forms of the “sacred images.” He is |
| + | the last old man—with him dies this knowledge. Thus is dying the past. So is approaching |
| + | the future. |
| + | |
| + | On the fields are standing, in circles, the figures of white ceramic horses. Whence are |
| + | these resplendent mounts? Upon them, the subtle bodies of women are said to go galloping |
| + | through the nights. Backs, which are doubled during the day in household tasks, at night |
| + | are made erect in flight. Shall one say it is a goat’s leap to the gathering of witches? |
| + | No, rather is it the flight of the Valkyries—the virgins of the air—the leap toward a |
| + | wondrous future. |
| + | |
| + | Each day a woman’s hand molds the sand at the entrance of the house into a special |
| + | design. This is the symbol that within the house all is well, and there is neither |
| + | sickness, death nor discord. If there be no happiness in the house then the hand of the |
| + | woman becomes stilled. A seeming shield of beauty is placed before the house by the hand |
| + | of the woman at the benevolent hour. And little girls in schools early are being taught |
| + | a variety of designs for the signs of happiness. An inexplicable beauty lives in this |
| + | custom of India. |
| + | |
| + | Vivekananda called the women of India to work and to freedom. He also asked the |
| + | so-called Christians, “If you so love the teaching of Jesus why do you not follow it?” |
| + | So spoke the pupil of Ramakrishna who passed through the substance of all teachings and |
| + | learned through life “not to deny.” Vivekananda was not merely an industrious |
| + | “Swami”—something lion-like rings in his letters. How he is needed now! |
| + | |
| + | “Buddhism is the most scientific and most cooperative teaching,” says the Hindu |
| + | biologist, Bose. It is a joy to hear how this truly great savant who found his way to |
| + | the mysteries of plant life speaks about the Vedanta, Mahabharata, and about the poetry |
| + | of the legends of the Himalaya. Only true knowledge can find the merited place for all |
| + | existing things. |
| + | |
| + | And accompanying the voice of the savant, simple and comprehensive, the silvery tones of |
| + | an electric apparatus tinkle out the pulse of the life of the plants, reopening pages of |
| + | the world’s knowledge, long since sealed. |
| + | |
| + | Bose’s mother in her day sold all her jewels in order to give her son an education. The |
| + | scientist, in demonstrating “His kingdom,” says: “Here are the children of the rich in |
| + | luxurious conditions. See how they become puffed and baggy. They need a good storm to |
| + | bring them back to healthy normalcy.” Knowing the pulse of the plant world, the |
| + | scientist approaches wholesomely all the manifestations of life. He values highly |
| + | Timiryaseff’s review of his works. One of Bose’s best books was written on the heights |
| + | of the Punjab in Mayavati—in the shrine of Vivekananda. Vivekananda departed too soon. |
| + | |
| + | Bose and Tagore—noble images of India! |
| + | |
| + | The frescoes of Ajanta, the powerful Trimurti of Elephanta, and the gigantic stupa in |
| + | Sarnath, all speak of other ancient times. And this former beauty also glimmers in the |
| + | fine and slender silhouette of a woman who carries her eternal water—water which feeds |
| + | the hearth. And the well, as in biblical times, remains the central spot of the whole |
| + | population. |
| + | |
| + | In the very backyard, in a tiny bed of meager flowers, rests a homely image of Ganeshi, |
| + | elephant of happiness. The family of Hindu coolies living in the shanty offers to him |
| + | its last grains of rice. Not much happiness has this image brought to them. |
| + | |
| + | Against the evidence of such refined values as are seen in Ramakrishna, Rabindranath |
| + | Tagore, Sir Jagadis Bose, one cannot become reconciled to that which still constitutes |
| + | the contents of the temples. Here is a phallic cult—Lingam in Elephanta. Up to now in |
| + | the sanctuaries of this cult are seen the traces of fresh offerings. From the ancient |
| + | wisdom we know that “Linga is the vessel of knowledge” and we know the scientific |
| + | explanation from times immemorial of this wise distribution of energy. But now the basis |
| + | of this worship is forgotten and it has degraded into superstition. |
| + | |
| + | Another ugly spectacle! In a golden temple of Benares, before us, was led a white little |
| + | goat. She was led into the sanctuary. There evidently she was approved of because in a |
| + | little while, frantically protesting, she was hurriedly dragged before us. In a minute, |
| + | she was stretched out on the threshold of the temple and the broad knife cut off her |
| + | head. It was difficult to believe that a sacred action had taken place! The meat of the |
| + | goat evidently went for food, because priests do not partake of any meat except that of |
| + | offered sacrificial animals. And such animals the population evidently brings each day. |
| + | The teaching which sanctioned the priests, evidently pictured them as quite different. |
| + | Even their appearance is undecorative and they cannot guard the beauty of the symbols of |
| + | knowledge. As long as the rule of castes is not comprehended properly the country cannot |
| + | develop. |
| + | |
| + | During our stay we read of several difficult family dramas founded on this ground of an |
| + | evidently surviving prejudice. At the same time, the Vedanta and Advaita clearly |
| + | establish the principle of unity. Some of the most cosmogonic parts of the Vedas are |
| + | written by women, and now in India has arrived the epoch of the woman. Greetings to the |
| + | women of India! |
| + | |
| + | In spite of a superabundance of tourists they seem to know America very little. One can |
| + | understand this. The whole mass of tourists quickly flows through the sheet-iron |
| + | channels of tourist companies, and never enters into a real and active contact with the |
| + | life of the country. In the north of India, Americans are called “nomads” because the |
| + | agencies give to these hurrying, breathless groups a special character, completely |
| + | outside of the people’s understanding. |
| + | |
| + | Out of the windows of the car glide by huddled little villages, those original producers |
| + | of all utilities and the makers of the nation. But who cares for these primary sources? |
| + | |
| + | Ramakrishna says: “In Atman there is no distinction of male or female, of Brahmin or |
| + | Kshatriya and the like.” |
| + | |
| + | Ramakrishna executed the work of the sweeper to show, personally, that there were no |
| + | distinctions. |
| + | |
| + | In December, we want to go into the Himalayas. We are regarded with astonishment: “But |
| + | now there is snow!” Snow is feared. Whereas the only time for the Himalayas is from |
| + | November to February. Already in March the curtain of fog rises. From May to August only |
| + | rarely and for brief periods can one see the entire glimmering range of snow; and truly |
| + | such grandeur is nowhere paralleled. |
| + | |
| + | Just as when you are approaching the Grand Canyon of Arizona, when you approach the |
| + | foothills of the Himalayas you go through the most uninteresting landscape. |
| + | |
| + | And only for a moment, at dawn in Siliguri, do the white giants appear before you as the |
| + | first messengers. And again they are hidden in the curly jungles. And again tea |
| + | plantations. And again barrack-like structures and factories. And only sometimes does a |
| + | typical habitation appear and conceal itself again as a vision from another world. There |
| + | are tales about the attacks of tigers and leopards. There are mountains of cases of tea |
| + | with the mark, Orange Pekoe. There is a Belgian missionary from Kurseong. |
| + | |
| + | It becomes cool. Crowds of small coolies are repairing the cave-ins from the last |
| + | monsoon. In the frosty air one cannot imagine the pressure of the summer monsoon |
| + | downpour from which all nature becomes moldy. There are few birds. Eagles are seen. |
| + | |
| + | Mountains are densely covered. The view of Darjeeling itself disappoints you. Is it |
| + | necessary to seek the Himalayas in order to find merely a corner of Switzerland? The |
| + | colorful types of the bazaar are not apparent at once, and the regular barracks and |
| + | bungalows already strike one’s eye. |
| + | |
| + | Wesearch for a house. The first information is not encouraging. We are assured there are |
| + | no good houses. Some are shown to us, lacking outlook and grounds, some immersed in the |
| + | little streets of wooden country houses and fences. This is not suitable. We want |
| + | something, beyond—there before the image of all the Himalayas, where the city orchestra |
| + | does not play its conventional tunes. “You will find nothing there!” But we are |
| + | persistent. We go ourselves, and we find an excellent house. And calmness and solitude, |
| + | and the entire chain of Himalayas before us. And still another surprise. Just here lived |
| + | the Dalai Lama during his long flight from Lhasa. For us, this house is just what is |
| + | needed. |
| + | |
| + | Not on one occasion only were we awakened by the chanting and the rhythmic beats around |
| + | the house. These are the lamas who, bowing to the ground many times, marched around our |
| + | dwelling. |
| + | |
| + | Somewhere the people are babbling that in this house lives a devil which appears as a |
| + | black pig. A haunted house, as we were told. But we are not afraid of devils, and in the |
| + | neighboring village, Bhutia Basti, there are many black pigs which resemble boars. Did |
| + | not our dear monkeys who came into the bathroom and ate the peas and flowers around the |
| + | house play the part of the devil? |
| + | |
| + | There is the tiresome need of having many servants—and the reason always the same: |
| + | castes. It reaches absurdity. The porter does not clean the path. Why? It appears that |
| + | according to caste, he is a blacksmith and has no right to take a broom into his hand. |
| + | Otherwise he will become defiled and become a sweeper. He decides the problem in a very |
| + | original fashion. He begins to brush around the garden with five fingers, creeping along |
| + | the ground. The groom is from the high Kshatriya caste and hints at his descent from a |
| + | king, which did not hinder him from mysterious operations with the horse feed. Sometimes |
| + | in the kitchen religious meetings are arranged. And the cook, chairman of the local Arya |
| + | Samaj, persistently persuades his listeners to something. Buddhists are not limited by |
| + | caste and are free to perform all kinds of work. They work fast, are merry, are quick to |
| + | understand and easy to adapt themselves. |
| + | |
| + | There are many tales about Tibetans, the warrior-like tribe of Kham and about the wild |
| + | Goloks, who call themselves wild “dogs.” They bring one back again even to the times of |
| + | Siegfried. They cement their brotherly oaths by mixing and drinking brotherly blood. |
| + | They never part with their weapons. |
| + | |
| + | “His Country” begins to unfold, as the series “Banners of the East” is begun. In June, |
| + | after the first rains, all the tempera begins to be covered with white spots of mold. |
| + | One has to heat up the place considerably in order that the mold should dry and come |
| + | off. |
| + | |
| + | “His Country.” In Sikhim, itself, was one of the Ashrams of the Mahatmas. To Sikhim, |
| + | Mahatmas came on mountain horses. Their physical presence communicates a solemn |
| + | importance to these parts. Of course now the Ashram has been transferred from Sikhim. Of |
| + | course now the Mahatmas have left Sikhim. But they were here, and therefore the silver |
| + | peaks of the chain glimmer still more beautifully. . . . |
| + | |
| + | Accompanied by pupils, artists and a sculptor, comes the majestic Rinpoche from Chumbi. |
| + | He walks throughout the whole country erecting new images of Maitreya. All is being |
| + | hastened. In a long talk, the lama points out that all may be attained only through |
| + | Shambhala. For those who imagine Shambhala as a legendary invention, this indication is |
| + | a superstitious myth. But there are also others, fortified by more practical knowledge. |
| + | |
| + | The noble Atisha, the Pillar of the teaching, walked from India to Tibet for the |
| + | purification of the teaching. The teacher passed by the retreat of Milarepa. The great |
| + | hermit became conscious of the passing procession and wishing to test the forces of the |
| + | Pillar of the teaching, appeared sitting on the end of a blade of grass. The noble |
| + | Atisha seeing this manifestation of the hermit, came down from the porte-chaise and also |
| + | rose upon the end of the next blade of grass. And when the teachers exchanged brotherly |
| + | greetings, Milarepa said: “Our knowledge is equal, but why is the blade of grass under |
| + | me slightly bent, while under thee, it has retained its tension?” The noble Atisha |
| + | smiled: “Verily, equal is our knowledge; but I come from the country where the Blessed |
| + | Tathagata himself lived and taught, and this consciousness raises me.” |
| + | |
| + | What magnets are laid in India? Indescribable is the charm of the children’s round dance |
| + | near Madras, with its tiny Gopis and miniature Krishna, Lel and Kupava. The greatest |
| + | imagery is bestrewn in unperceived abundance. India knows the all-penetrating power of |
| + | the magnet. |
| + | |
| + | And how about miracles in India, friends of the west will ask? We will say that we have |
| + | not seen “miracles,” but we have encountered every manifestation of psychic energy. If |
| + | one wants to speak about the manifestations of a “higher miraculous” power—then it is |
| + | useless to talk altogether. But to comprehend the materially-attained development of |
| + | psycho-physical energy, then India gives even now the most remarkable manifestations. |
| + | The celebrated “evil eye” of the east exists, and the people die submissively at the |
| + | ordained date, if they are not able to counteract it by a still more greatly trained |
| + | will. The transmission of the command of will from a distance does exist. Suggestion in |
| + | any form exists in highly complicated correlations. Some manifestations are being |
| + | performed consciously and a greater part subconsciously through natural ability and |
| + | beneficial atmospheric conditions. And that which is unusual for a civilized European, |
| + | that very thing for the cultured Hindu, or rather Asiatic, will be an almost daily |
| + | material occurrence. |
| + | |
| + | Observe how remarkable are the physiological comparisons traced by the Hindus between |
| + | cosmic manifestations and the human organism. The womb, the navel, the phallus and the |
| + | heart, all these long since have been included in the fine system of development of the |
| + | universal cell. Only it is difficult to entice the people into a discussion of this. |
| + | Again is necessary that confidence which cannot be established at the dining table. |
| + | |
| + | During the period of Inquisition people were burned for invoking the teraphim. But in |
| + | India even now this means of influence is practiced. Even now, in the Malabar Hills, |
| + | dark persons may come and because of an unfulfilled request will try to touch you, while |
| + | they say to you: “Sahib will be sick” or “You will live only ten days.” If the organism |
| + | at that moment is fatigued or if the will is weak, the command is fulfilled, and one can |
| + | remedy this only by a counter-suggestion. But often the counteraction is less powerful |
| + | or not applied in time. |
| + | |
| + | The cases related about the “evil eye” provide a remarkable, and as yet unstudied, |
| + | problem for the psychiatrists and criminologists. The person who has received this |
| + | stroke of the will, on the appointed day begins to lose his life energy and his power of |
| + | resistance and finally the apparatus stops. The doctors who do not apply suggestion in |
| + | time are at loss for a cure, and begin to poison the paralyzed nervous system still |
| + | more. Incipient anaemia, a stroke of the heart or spleen, or gall bladder, nervous |
| + | spasms and choking are often the visible effects of the command of the invading will. It |
| + | is difficult to ascertain just how the nature of the attack on the particular organs |
| + | occurs; one may rather imagine that the most feeble organ succumbs to a nervous attack. |
| + | In a lesser and more crude manner the same practice is apparent in Shamanism, but the |
| + | gradations of the will and its applications are entirely incomparable. It is justly |
| + | pointed out that such murder or harm by will power is far more dangerous than a physical |
| + | one. And where can one seek the limits of such suggestions? In the East one sometimes |
| + | hears a significant sentence: “He shall not live.” It means one has sensed the spark of |
| + | the will-stroke. |
| + | |
| + | Two qualities must be conceded to the English: steadfastness and precision. For the |
| + | East, both qualities are remarkable. Precision according to the ordained dates of course |
| + | is absolutely necessary because “the worst theft is the theft of someone else’s time.” |
| + | Do not be late if you wish to be respected. |
| + | |
| + | It all began with the strange footprints found by the Everest Expedition. Then in the |
| + | |
| + | Statesman, |
| + | |
| + | an English Major related how during one of the expeditions into the region of the |
| + | Himalayas, he encountered a strange mountain inhabitant. At sunrise, amidst the frosty |
| + | snows, the Major walked away from the camp and climbed the neighboring rocks. Glancing |
| + | at the near-by rocks, the Major to his astonishment beheld a tall man almost naked, |
| + | standing, leaning on a high bow. The mountain inhabitant did not look at the Major, his |
| + | attention being completely attracted by something unseen behind the curve of the slope. |
| + | And suddenly the man bent, strained himself, and by madly dangerous leaps rushed from |
| + | the rocks and disappeared. When the Major told his people about the meeting they smiled |
| + | and said: “Sahib has seen a ‘snow’ man. They are watching the guarded places.” |
| + | |
| + | They tell of a recent case in Bengal. A Sadhu was traveling in a train without a ticket. |
| + | At the first station he was put out of the train. The bells rang. The locomotive |
| + | whistled and did not move. So it continued for some time. The passengers remembered the |
| + | Sadhu who had been put off and demanded that he be put back in his place. Then the train |
| + | moved. Some serious mass impact! |
| + | |
| + | A European lady living in India entered a dense part of her garden and became lost in a |
| + | reverie as to why the garden walks were not laid out in that place. Three days later she |
| + | went there again and saw a freshly traced path, but the end of the path was somewhat |
| + | lost. She called the old gardener: |
| + | |
| + | “Who has made the path?” |
| + | |
| + | “Mem-Sahib wanted to have the garden path but I did not know how to end it!” |
| + | |
| + | Then the woman remembered that the completion of her thought about the garden path was |
| + | not clear. |
| + | |
| + | Sir Jagadis Bose affirms that the sensitiveness of plants is completely astonishing. As |
| + | the plants feel the formation of a cloud long before it is visible to the eye, so the |
| + | East feels the thought at its inception. |
| + | |
| + | In the close interrelation between the visible and the invisible, and in the epic |
| + | simplicity of their interplay, lies the charm of India. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan tailor is making |
| + | |
| + | kaftans. |
| + | |
| + | He takes all measurements with his eye, but most astonishing is it that the |
| + | |
| + | kaftan |
| + | |
| + | comes out well-fitting. And all this is not done without care! The quality of gold for |
| + | the trimming, the color of the lining and the length—all this is thought out. The local |
| + | homespun is very narrow and one is astonished how evenly they can smooth the many seams. |
| + | |
| + | If we take the accredited historical data of the last century it is astonishing how |
| + | definitely the folk-consciousness was freed from the obvious survivals of the middle |
| + | ages. Those who defend such survivals should examine these historic paths and convince |
| + | themselves and realize that what is occurring now is not accidental but under rational |
| + | guidance and control. He who fails to recognize this rationality, cannot understand |
| + | evolution. |
| + | |
| + | In sudden support of fundamental Buddhism, the realist of realists, Huxley says, “No one |
| + | but a superficial thinker rejects the teaching of reincarnation as nonsense. Like the |
| + | teaching of evolution itself, reincarnation has its roots in the world of reality and is |
| + | entitled to the same support commanded by every consideration which evolves from |
| + | analogies.” |
| + | |
| + | Two beautiful characterizations of Buddhism: “As a lion unfrightened by noises. As a |
| + | wind, not to be captured by a net. As a lotus leaf impervious to water. As a rhinoceros |
| + | treading in solitude!”—“The study and manifestation of energy in all its forms. Energy |
| + | of armament. Energy of application in action. Energy of dissatisfaction giving birth to |
| + | the eternal striving which brings man into the cosmic rhythm.” So said Asanga. |
| + | |
| + | Where, then, is the inactive pessimism? Where is the philosophy of despair, as Buddhism |
| + | is sometimes called by persons of small comprehension. How many books have been written |
| + | under the false romanticism of the nineteenth century? How many scientists, not versed |
| + | in the languages, have fed their minds with these vague sour conclusions? But at last we |
| + | now have a different Buddha—with a sword, with leonine daring, armed with all energies |
| + | amidst universal activity, in cosmic aspiration. |
| + | |
| + | “Watch the movement of the stars, as one who participates in them, and constantly |
| + | consider the transmutation of one element into another, because such a process purifies |
| + | one from the grime of earthly life.” So reflects Marcus Aurelius. So also says an |
| + | educated Hindu from out the Himalayas. |
| + | |
| + | L. Horn writes: “With the acceptance of the teachings of evolution, the old forms of |
| + | thought everywhere are crumbling. New ideas arise in the place of outlived dogmas and we |
| + | have before us the spectacle of a general intellectual movement in a direction becoming |
| + | ever more strange—parallel with eastern philosophy. |
| + | |
| + | “The unheard-of speed and variety of the scientific progress current in the last fifty |
| + | years cannot but call forth an equally unprecedented hastening of thought in the broad |
| + | non-scientific circles of society. That the highest and most complete organisms develop |
| + | out of the simplest organisms; that upon one physical basis of life stands the whole |
| + | living world; that there cannot be traced a line which divides animal and vegetable |
| + | kingdoms; that the difference between life and non-life is a difference in gradation and |
| + | not substance—all this already has become commonplace in the new philosophy. After the |
| + | recognition of physical evolution it is not difficult to say that the acknowledgment of |
| + | psychic evolution is only a question of time.” |
| + | |
| + | The observation of the East astonishes and rejoices one. And not the obvious power of |
| + | observation which leads to a dead stereotype; but observation, fine and silent in its |
| + | substance. One remembers how the teacher asked the newly arriving pupil to describe a |
| + | room, but the room was empty and in a vessel was swimming only a tiny fish. In three |
| + | hours the pupil wrote three pages, but the teacher rejected him saying that about this |
| + | one little fish he could have written all his life. In technical imitation is revealed |
| + | the same sharp observation. In the adaptation of the meter of a song, in the character |
| + | of a call, in movements, you see an all-powerful culture. Somewhere the Hindus, |
| + | enveloped in their mantles, were compared to Roman senators. This is an inane |
| + | comparison. Rather liken them to the philosophers of Greece, and still better, call them |
| + | the creators of the Upanishads, Bhagavad-Gita, Mahabharata. For neither Rome nor Greece |
| + | existed when India was flourishing. And the latest excavations begin to support this |
| + | indubitable deduction. |
| + | |
| + | In the Tao Te Ching are drawn the following subdivisions of the types of scientists: |
| + | “Scientists of the highest class, on hearing about Tao, seriously bring their knowledge |
| + | into life. Scientists of the middle grade, on hearing about Tao, sometimes observe it, |
| + | sometimes lose it again. The scientists of the lowest class on hearing about Tao, only |
| + | laugh loudly at it.” Lao Tze knew. |
| + | |
| + | Hindus regard objects of art with fine understanding. From a Hindu, you naturally expect |
| + | an interesting approach and unusual remarks, and so it is. Therefore to show paintings |
| + | to a Hindu is a real joy. How captivatingly they approach art! Do not think that they |
| + | are occupied only in its contemplation. You will be astonished by their remarks about |
| + | tonality, about technique, and about the expressiveness of the line. If the observer be |
| + | long silent, do not think that he has become tired. On the contrary this is a good sign. |
| + | It means he has entered into a mood, and one can expect from him especially interesting |
| + | deductions. Sometimes he will tell you a whole parable. And there will be nothing vulgar |
| + | or crude in it. It is astonishing how transformed are the people of the East before the |
| + | creations of art. Indeed it is more difficult for a European to enter into the current |
| + | of creation and as a rule he is less able to synthesize his impression. |
| + | |
| + | In the epic designs of India all can be coordinated. If in the crowd, your next neighbor |
| + | should be a skeleton, pale with leprosy, you are not frightened. Next to you will lean a |
| + | Sadhu, colored with blue stripes and with a head-dress made of cow dung. You are not |
| + | surprised. A Fakir with toothless cobras will cheat you. You are smiling. The chariot of |
| + | Jagernath crushes the crowd—you are not astonished. There is a procession of fearful |
| + | Nagis of Rajputana with blades like curved fangs. You are calm. And where are those for |
| + | whose sake you have come to India? They do not sit in the bazaars and they do not walk |
| + | in processions. And you will not enter their dwellings without their consent. But do |
| + | they really exist? Are not leisurely authors writing about them only for the sake of |
| + | being unique? Yes, they do exist. Their knowledge and their skill do exist. And in this |
| + | sharpening of human qualities is being exalted all human substance. And no leprosy will |
| + | turn you away from India. |
| + | |
| + | All that takes place at the metapsychical institute in Paris—the experiments of Nötzing |
| + | and Richet in ectoplasm; the experiments of Baraduque in the photography of physical |
| + | emanations, the works of Kotik in the exteriorization of sensitiveness and the attempts |
| + | of Beckhterev in thought-transmission at a distance—all this is familiar to India. Only, |
| + | not as unbelievable novelties, but as laws long since known. They speak little on these |
| + | themes, because of the dearth of scientifically enlightened fellow-conversationalists. |
| + | The ancient method of Hinduism and Buddhism is to open the doors to him who knocks, but |
| + | not to call any one and not to coerce any one. But the quality of the knock also must be |
| + | powerful. In the practical teaching of Buddhism, independence of consciousness is |
| + | sharply emphasized, and as its consequence, an unconquerable forbearing and |
| + | all-conquering patience. The greatest patience will win a victory. So let the ignorant |
| + | deniers immerse themselves in the true East to learn to absorb the power of containment. |
| + | |
| + | Two characteristic episodes are related about the Tashi Lama. When he was in India, he |
| + | was asked whether he possessed any psychic powers. The Tashi Lama silently smiled. In a |
| + | short time, though closely surrounded by guards and officers, he suddenly disappeared. |
| + | All search was in vain. Finally, after a considerable period of time, the officers saw |
| + | him calmly sitting in the same garden and around him were running, in fruitless search, |
| + | the guards. This incident reminds me of Gorki, who many years ago told me that he |
| + | himself saw vivid images of Indian cities upon the blank metallic leaves of an album, |
| + | which was shown to him once in Caucasia by a Hindu. With all his realism, Gorki |
| + | absolutely affirms that he saw in vivid colors that which the Hindu pointed out to him. |
| + | Greetings to Alexei Maximovitch! |
| + | |
| + | Attraction by thought is astonishing. The desire was expressed to have an old Tibetan |
| + | Buddha, but this is already difficult. We spoke and thought among ourselves how to get |
| + | it. In a few days came a lama and brought an excellent Buddha: “The lady wanted to have |
| + | a Buddha and I am told to give the Buddha from my house altar. I cannot sell the sacred |
| + | image—accept it as a gift.” |
| + | |
| + | “But how did you know of our desire to have a Buddha? |
| + | |
| + | “The White Tara came in a dream and told me to bring to you.” |
| + | |
| + | And so it happens. |
| + | |
| + | Recently we read in the |
| + | |
| + | Statesman |
| + | |
| + | that the lowest castes of India begin willingly to accept Buddhism. Rabindranath Tagore, |
| + | in a talk with Gandhi, spoke against castes. Out of the mouth of a Brahmin this avowal |
| + | is significant. Many significant and beautiful signs. |
| + | |
| + | Special attention must be given to the Puranas—therein are many most valuable |
| + | indications: “When the sun and the moon, and Tishya and the planet Jupiter are in one |
| + | mansion, then the Krita (Satya) age will begin.” So does the Vishnu Purana point out the |
| + | age of Maitreya. |
| + | |
| + | Lamas are constantly coming to us. They spread paintings on the lawn; and chantingly |
| + | pointing with a little stick, they relate a whole epic. The vivid colors of the |
| + | paintings merge with the natural colors of nature. The visual reactions have been valued |
| + | since long ago. A nun comes. She sits at the threshold and throwing back her handsome |
| + | head she chants her prayers. We can only distinguish “Tra shi sho!” Altogether the |
| + | question of language is very difficult. All these mountain dialects somewhat resemble |
| + | Tibetan. But still the difference is very great and the number of dialects of the small |
| + | tribes is also great. Finally from Lhasa comes Kung Kusho of Doring to salute the house |
| + | of the Dalai Lama. The Kung (this is a title like a duke; remarkable is the coincidence |
| + | of Conung, Kung, King) is an important old man with a wife and daughter, round of face |
| + | like a Ukrainian; with numerous servants; on big black mules shod with silver are high |
| + | saddles and many-colored horse blankets. On their foreheads they wear vivid red caps |
| + | with the image of Chintamani. In 1912 the Kung was attacked by Chinese soldiers. They |
| + | almost wounded him. They killed his secretary. This led to a revolt in Tibet. The Kung |
| + | is astonished and rejoices at our Buddhist objects. We are breakfasting. We are making |
| + | Tibetan dishes. We speak of the movement of Buddhism. He is a very ceremonious old man. |
| + | |
| + | Interesting are the tales about the attacks of the cavalry of Kham and Golok. Wild |
| + | riders do not need reins. Their horses, as in ancient narratives, take part in the |
| + | battle with teeth and hoof. During battle, the riders take off their |
| + | |
| + | khalats |
| + | |
| + | up to the waist. Helmeted, with swords, lances and guns, this avalanche is borne onward. |
| + | Sometimes they disappear under the stomachs of the horses. If all means of attack are |
| + | exhausted the riders take stones from the ground and fight with screams resembling |
| + | laughter. There is one sign which at once quiets this avalanche. Of course every tribe |
| + | has its particularities in battle and by not knowing them one can weaken the best force. |
| + | Tibetan women in songs and in life sometimes are not behindhand in manifestations of |
| + | courage. They throw hot water on the enemy; they meet the temporary conquerors with |
| + | derision. |
| + | |
| + | Near Ghum stands a high rock. It is said that on its peak is lying a significant |
| + | prophecy. In each stupa are enclosed significant objects. It is wrong to think that the |
| + | bookshelves displayed in temples to some travelers comprise the entire book treasures of |
| + | the monastery. Besides these official volumes of teachings everywhere in the secret |
| + | recesses of the abbot there are manuscripts of unusual interest. One thing is dangerous. |
| + | Often these hidden places are harmed by dampness, or mice, or are simply forgotten |
| + | during some hasty evacuation. Often a lama will tell you: “I have written down the |
| + | prophecies but I do not carry them with me. They are lying under a stone.” Then some |
| + | unexpected event happens; the lama hastens to put his sack on his back and departs; and |
| + | the invaluable manuscripts are lost. |
| + | |
| + | Some idiomatic commands are characteristic: “To put on trousers” means to get ready for |
| + | a march. Idiomatic terms often bring difficulties into negotiations. Once an ambassador |
| + | spoke in very high terms about “the hair of Brahma.” Nobody under stood him and the |
| + | negotiations had to stop. However, he had nothing else in mind than the river |
| + | Brahmaputra. Often the languages taught in universities do not help in the local places. |
| + | |
| + | A Chinese book, “Wei Tsang T’u-Shih,” thus describes the Potala: “The mountain palaces |
| + | are glowing in a purple sheen. The luster of the mountain peaks is equal unto emerald. |
| + | Verily the beauty and perfection of all objects make this place incomparable.” |
| + | |
| + | We are reading of the builder of the Potala, the fifth Dalai Lama, named “Ruler of |
| + | conjurations, eloquent, holy ocean of fearlessness.” It is he, who on becoming His |
| + | Worthiness the Dalai Lama in 1642, built Potala, the red palace, Pho Brang dMarpo, on |
| + | the red mountain Marpo ri. He also built the remarkable monasteries Mo-ru, Labrang |
| + | Garmakhiya, and many others. He also erected on the rock the colossal relief of Buddha |
| + | and the saints of Buddhism. During his rule Mongols entered Tibet the second time. |
| + | Gruber, the Jesuit, dislikes very much this strong leader, although he finds that he was |
| + | cautious in his methods, assiduous and devoted to art and knowledge. |
| + | |
| + | Unusual is the end of this Dalai Lama. According to one version the Dalai Lama died in |
| + | the eighties and his death was hidden for a few years in order to give opportunity for |
| + | various political matters to be adjusted. According to another version the Dalai Lama |
| + | voluntarily abandoned his rule and hid himself for many years in that very same |
| + | seclusion in the Himalayas. |
| + | |
| + | History is paralleled by the following ancient legend: “Every century the Arhats make an |
| + | effort to enlighten the world. But until now not one of these efforts has been |
| + | successful. Failure has followed failure. It is said that until the day when a lama will |
| + | be born in a western body and appear as a spiritual conqueror for the destruction of the |
| + | century-old ignorance, until then there will be little success in dissolving the snares |
| + | of the West.” |
| + | |
| + | The Chinese emperors lived according to the astronomical seasons of the year. For each |
| + | season of the year there was a special colored garment. Each period of the year used to |
| + | be spent in a special part of the palace. |
| + | |
| + | The method of Buddhist teaching reminds one of the method of the Kabala, that of not |
| + | imposing, but attracting, and pointing out the best way. They speak about a remarkable |
| + | monastery, Mo-ru, and about the special learning of the lamas of that monastery. For the |
| + | three summer months the lamas go away to the west for meditation. |
| + | |
| + | During the “hearings” the lamas often cover their heads with cloth. This recalls |
| + | “biblical” ceremony. It recalls the statement of Damis, the pupil of Appolonius of |
| + | Tyana, of how Appolonius, when he heard a “soft voice,” always wrapped himself |
| + | completely, from head to foot, in a long scarf of woolen texture. This scarf was kept |
| + | only for this purpose. From altogether other times, the very same details reach us. |
| + | Contemporaries were astonished how strangely Saint Germain sometimes “wrapped himself |
| + | up.” Let us remember also the warm shawl of Blavatsky. Lamas carefully observe a certain |
| + | condition of temperature which is favorable to the induction of different |
| + | manifestations. |
| + | |
| + | Lady Lytton came to see the pictures. In the Lytton family splendid traditions remain |
| + | from their celebrated grandfather Bulwer-Lytton. Then came Colonel Bailey. Then came the |
| + | whole Everest Expedition. By the way, they persistently wanted to find out whether we |
| + | did not ascend Everest. In the painting, “Burning of Darkness,” they recognized the |
| + | exact image of the glacier near Everest, and they did not understand how this |
| + | characteristic view, seen only by them, could have come into the picture. |
| + | |
| + | A page of the true East: “Again they will come with the question, ‘How shall one deal |
| + | with obstacles?’ One person is hindered by the family; one by a distasteful occupation; |
| + | one by poverty; one by the attacks of the enemies. A good rider likes to show his skill |
| + | on untrained horses and prefers obstacles to a smooth path. Every obstacle must be the |
| + | birth of possibilities. When difficulties appear in the face of obstacles, they result |
| + | precisely from fear. No matter in what attire a coward would garb himself we must find |
| + | the page about fear. Friends, so long as obstacles do not seem as the birth of |
| + | possibility, so long do we not understand the teaching. Success lies in the enlarging of |
| + | the consciousness. It is impossible to come near in the presence of fear. The ray of |
| + | courage shall lead above the manifestations of obstacles, because now, when the world |
| + | knows where to go—the seed of blood is growing. If the path is strewn by bones one can |
| + | go courageously. If peoples speak in unknown languages—it means we can open the soul. If |
| + | one has to hasten—it means that somewhere a new enemy is ready. Be blessed, obstacles, |
| + | through you we grow.” |
| + | |
| + | India, I know thy sorrows, but I shall remember thee with the same joyous tremor as the |
| + | first flower on the spring meadow. From thy Brahmins we shall select the greatest who |
| + | understood the Vedic wisdom. We shall select the Rajah who strove for the finding of the |
| + | path of truth. We shall notice Vaishya and Shudra who have exalted their craft and labor |
| + | for the upliftment of the world. A boiling kettle is the forge of India. The dagger of |
| + | faith over a white goat. The phantom flame of a bonfire over a widow. Conjurations and |
| + | sorcery. Complicated are the folds of thy garments, India. Menacing are thy vestures |
| + | blown by the whirlwind. And deadly burning are thy inclement rocks, India. But we know |
| + | thy fragrant essences. India, we know the depths and finesse of thy thoughts. We know |
| + | the great Aum, which leads to the Inexpressible Heights. We know thy great Guiding |
| + | Spirit. India, we know thy ancient wisdom! Thy sacred scriptures in which is outlined |
| + | the past, the present, the future. And we shall remember thee with the same tremor as |
| + | the most precious first flower on the spring meadow. |
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| /dev/null .. en/books/1/22.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,1000 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 22 |
| + | |
| + | Evokingly and sharply the arrows whistle across the gulley, from out the bamboo grove. |
| + | The Sikhimese remember their favorite ancient pastimes. One says: “The arrow is better |
| + | than a bullet. It sings as it strikes while the bullet screeches as it flies outward.” |
| + | |
| + | In the morning a red leaf was brought to us: “In the eveningSenge will |
| + | arrive.” After sunset upon the zigzag of the path, the fires began to flash out and the |
| + | trumpets to resound. And finally it came rolling on—motley, noisy, trumpeting, drumming; |
| + | with a dragon, with handmade horses, with paper yaks. With popguns and many-colored |
| + | fires the dance proceeded, the motley crowd receding into the violet enamel of the night |
| + | amid the explosions of the flaming spark. . . . These are Polovetsky dances! And the |
| + | banners upon the staffs—these are the standards of Jenghiz Khan! |
| + | |
| + | If you understand, then you will be understood. Touching are some of the gifts of the |
| + | lamas. Knowledge is needed in order to understand all the finesse of intention in these |
| + | gifts. To whom an image, and just which image; to whom, a bearskin; to whom, a leopard |
| + | skin; to whom, a fur coat; to whom, a khalat; to |
| + | whom, a khatik; and if so, whether one with designs |
| + | or a white one. By the hieroglyphs of these objects one can read their entire |
| + | relationship with you. Are you recognized as a great scientist? Or are you left within |
| + | the limits of conventional politeness? Or are you left without attention? Often the |
| + | non-understood “ceremony” is simply a short subtle code of gesture and conduct. |
| + | |
| + | Two worlds find expression in the Himalayas. One is the world of the soil—full of the |
| + | enchantment of these parts. Deep ravines and grotesque hills rear up to the cloud-line, |
| + | into which melts the smoke of villages and monasteries. Upon the heights gleam banners, |
| + | suburgans or stupas. The ascending mountain passes curve with sharp turns. Eagles vie in |
| + | their flight with the colorful kites flown by the villagers. In the bamboo-stalks and |
| + | amid the fern the sleek body of a tiger or a leopard adds a glimmer of rich |
| + | supplementary color. On the branches skulk the dwarfed bears; and a horde of bearded |
| + | monkeys often escorts the solitary pilgrim. |
| + | |
| + | An earthly world this, full of diversities! A stately larch stands beside a blooming |
| + | rhododendron. All is entangled. And all this earthly wealth shades into the blue mist of |
| + | the rolling distances. A chain of clouds crowns the lowering mist. |
| + | |
| + | Above this synthetic picture, it is strange, unexpectedly startling, to behold new |
| + | ramparts mounting the clouds. Above the nebulous waves, above the twilight, glimmer the |
| + | sparkling snows. Erect, infinitely beauteous, stand these dazzling, impassable peaks. |
| + | Two distinct worlds, intersected by a mist! |
| + | |
| + | Besides Mount Everest, fifteen peaks of the Himalayan chain surpass in height Mont |
| + | Blanc. If from the great river Rangith we survey all the approaches to the snowy border |
| + | and all the white domes of the peaks, nowhere, to one’s recollection, is there such an |
| + | open barricade of elevations. From this superb prospect one obtains an especially |
| + | enthralling impression of the grandeur of the Himalayas—“Dwelling of snows.” |
| + | |
| + | To the side of the ascent, the summits merge into one implacable wall—the jagged, |
| + | unending ridge of the Sacred Lizard. It is difficult to discern that just at that point |
| + | are hidden the snowy summits of Jelep-la and Nathu-la on the way to Shigatse and |
| + | Lhasa—the fog seems especially often to envelop this road. |
| + | |
| + | The upper portion of the Buddhist banners bears the cross-shaped spear, disk, crescent |
| + | and lotus-petals. Are not the emblems of all teachings intertwined upon one flagstaff? |
| + | In these reminders of the symbols of the elements of Nature everyone will find an image |
| + | near to him. |
| + | |
| + | Upon the ikons and ornaments of Tibet often is found, glowing with precious stones, the |
| + | image of the fish—that happy sign—the same found upon the walls of the Roman catacombs. |
| + | In one conception is united the Buddha’s “Wheel of life,” the Circle of the “Elements |
| + | forming the mystery” of the Christian church and the “Wheel of Ezekiel.” The many-eyed |
| + | seraphim and multiple eyes of the Luminous Mother of the World penetrate equally into |
| + | the recesses of the soul. |
| + | |
| + | In the cults of Zoroaster there is represented the chalice with a flame. The same |
| + | flaming chalice is engraved upon the ancient Hebrew silver shekels of the time of |
| + | Solomon and of an even remoter antiquity. In the Hindu excavations of the periods from |
| + | Chandragupta Maurya, we observe the same powerfully stylized image. Sergius of Radonega, |
| + | laboring over the enlightenment of Russia, administered from the flaming chalice. Upon |
| + | Tibetan images, the Bodhisattvas are holding the chalice blossoming with tongues of |
| + | flame. One may also remember the Druid chalice of life. Aflame, too, was the Holy Grail. |
| + | Not in imagination; verily by deeds are being interwoven the great teachings of all |
| + | ages, the language of pure fire! |
| + | |
| + | It has long since been said, “Faith without deeds is dead.” Buddha pronounced three |
| + | paths: the long way of knowledge, the shorter way of faith, and the shortest way—through |
| + | action. David and Solomon also glorify the strivings of labor. The Vedanta extols the |
| + | manifestation of works. Verily, in the foundation of all covenants, action is placed |
| + | foremost. This is the creative fire of the Spirit. |
| + | |
| + | Are the symbols of the Hindu Trimurti alien to the Trinity? Does the |
| + | Buddhist Tree of Wishes, hung with the objects of all desires, not |
| + | respond to our conception of the Christmas Tree? What of the details of the arrangement |
| + | of the temple altars? What of the ascetics and hermits, who buried themselves in their |
| + | stone coffins? What of the image-lamps and the fires of conjurations; the wreaths and |
| + | candles of heartfelt prayer, flung upon the bosom of the Ganges? And the birch of |
| + | Trinity, the musk and incense? And the wrought gem-bedecked vestments? And the stones, |
| + | thrown at Buddha by his close relative, are they not the same as the stones hurled at |
| + | Stephen? Verily, not by accident have Buddhist legends been carved upon the frescoes of |
| + | the Campo Santo in Pisa. Profound in its significance too is the Moslem legend telling |
| + | of the visitation of the mother of Jesus to the mother of Mohammed before the birth of |
| + | the Prophet. And Ladakian castles are towering, in the very same flight, as the eagles’ |
| + | nests of Faienza or Montefalcone. |
| + | |
| + | In Jeddah, this gateway to Mecca, the Mohammedans especially venerate and guard the |
| + | so-called Tomb of Eve. And it is the same Archangel Gabriel—he of the Old and New |
| + | Testaments—who upon Mount Hira bade Mohammed commence his preaching—the same one! |
| + | |
| + | Mogul queens bore the revered title of Miriam. Miriam, Mary, Mother of the World. From |
| + | times immemorial have the most ancient forgotten temples extolled the anticipation of |
| + | the new epochs. |
| + | |
| + | In the ancient city, Kish, the Temple of the Mother of the World has recently been |
| + | discovered. |
| + | |
| + | Sarnath and Gaya, the scenes of Buddha’s personal achievements, are fallen in ruins, now |
| + | only the goal of pilgrims. So too, Jerusalem. “Because Jesus himself witnessed that the |
| + | prophet is without honor in his own country.” |
| + | |
| + | According to the legend, Buddha’s initiation was performed in the presence of the High |
| + | Ones. The site of initiation is called “the holiest stupa” but its location is not |
| + | disclosed. The sites of Buddha’s achievements on the Ganges are known, as well as the |
| + | scenes of the birth and death of the teacher—in Nepal. According to some indications the |
| + | initiation was performed farther north—beyond the Himalayas, because Buddha came down |
| + | from the north for the performance of his works. |
| + | |
| + | But where was Jesus until his thirtieth year? Who knows those haloed retreats? Whither |
| + | lies Korya-Morya? Shall they be revealed? |
| + | |
| + | The legendary mountain Meru, according to the Mahabharata, and the equally legendary |
| + | height Shambhala in Buddhist teaching, both lay in the north and served as the summit |
| + | for initiations. And not everywhere until the appointed date, can the details of these |
| + | places of high knowledge be told. |
| + | |
| + | Wise intercourses—one sees clearer from above. Instead of petty quarrels of |
| + | denunciation, history recalls to us truly international ties. It is pointed out as a |
| + | historical fact that a Mongolian Bogdo-Khan was saved from illness by the “appearance of |
| + | Nicholas.” This is averred by the Mongolian Khutukhtus, whose knowledge is considered |
| + | very high. All is full of signs, only do not overlook them, Observe keenly and joyously, |
| + | and flexibly. |
| + | |
| + | Upon the wrist of a Tibetan woman we observed a strange blue sign, which on closer |
| + | inspection showed the appearance of a tattooed blue cross of equal ends. When she was |
| + | asked the explanation of this sign, the woman revealed that a Tibetan physician had |
| + | applied the sign during “a very dangerous cough”—evidently pneumonia. Tibetan physicians |
| + | generally inject medicines under such signs. This sign was made by the personal |
| + | physician of the Dalai Lama during his three years’ stay in Darjeeling. Swastika is a |
| + | symbol of the conception of fire and life. |
| + | |
| + | According to the prophecy of Lama Tsa-rinpoche, the present attempt to conquer Everest |
| + | will end only in losses. Let us see whether the old lama is right. |
| + | |
| + | The lama seemed astonished at the desire of foreigners to ascend the summit of Everest, |
| + | at any risk. “Why expend such efforts in the physical body? Is it not simpler to be |
| + | there in spirit?” For with ease do lamas project their astral bodies, for which, of |
| + | course, no height is an obstacle. |
| + | |
| + | From this very window the high priest sent prayers |
| + | to Tibet which was troubled by the Chinese. For three years, facing the wall of the |
| + | Himalaya, he kept vigil. |
| + | |
| + | In the time of the old Jesuit mission, about three hundred years ago, in Lhasa, there |
| + | was a Christian chapel. Great lamas visited it. Now no one even remembers the |
| + | approximate site of it. |
| + | |
| + | The lama here bewails the visiting hunters—they came and killed many stags! And now when |
| + | the lama strolls into the forest, few are the stags that come to him. And he loves the |
| + | animals to approach him! Not savagery but deep culture rings in his complaint. We are |
| + | reminded of the tale of old Avramy, who was a shepherd beyond the Ural, and when he |
| + | prayed to the East, all the sheep in silence turned also toward the sunrise. |
| + | |
| + | In Buddhist monasteries it was the custom to confine in the library him who was defeated |
| + | during a scientific argument. Let him learn more! An excellent custom! |
| + | |
| + | “A Chinese Amban (governor), an evil and dissolute man, was desirous of visiting a |
| + | venerated holy abbot of the local monastery in Tibet. By persistence and force he |
| + | demanded an audience, but when he entered the reception room of the abbot, he saw on the |
| + | throne, instead of the holy man, the image of a hideous pig, and in fright he rushed |
| + | from the presence. Thus the dissolute man, making his way by force, found an image |
| + | worthy of him! A fine reminder to all despots. ‘With what measure ye mete, it shall be |
| + | measured to you again.’ ” |
| + | |
| + | A legend of Central Asia tells of the mysterious nation, underground dwellers—the |
| + | Agharti. Approaching the gates into this blessed kingdom, all living beings become |
| + | silent, reverently pausing in their course. Recall, now, the Russian legend about the |
| + | mysterious “Сhud” which went underground to escape the persecution of the evil forces. |
| + | To this secreted place also leads the sacred legend of the subterranean Kitege. |
| + | Everything comes from the North. |
| + | |
| + | The whole world tells its tales of underground cities, treasure troves, temples merging |
| + | under water! The Russian and Norman peasant relates about this with equal surety. So, |
| + | too, does the inhabitant of the desert know of the treasures which sometimes glimmer |
| + | from under the sand waves and then—until the ordained time—recede again under the earth. |
| + | Around one beacon-fire are gathering those who remember the predestined dates. We do not |
| + | speak of superstitions but of knowledge—knowledge revealed in beautiful symbols. Why |
| + | invent, when truth is so manifold? In La Manche even now is seen the city which has been |
| + | “submerged” under water. |
| + | |
| + | Many sources tell of the subterranean dwellings in the district of Lhasa and Koko-Nor. A |
| + | lama from Mongolia recalls the following legend: When the foundations of the monastery |
| + | Genden were built during the time of the Teacher Tsong-kha-pa, in the fourteenth |
| + | century, it was noticed that through the gaps of the rocks there arose the smoke of |
| + | incense. A passage was broken through and there was found a cave in which, motionless, |
| + | was seated an old man. Tsong-kha-pa aroused him from his ecstasy and the old man asked |
| + | for a cup of milk. Then he asked what teaching now existed upon earth. After which he |
| + | disappeared. It is also pointed out that the Potala, the palace of the Dalai Lama, has |
| + | hidden recesses of the greatest antiquity. By the facial expressions of the high lamas |
| + | one will not discover anything. One must seek through other paths. |
| + | |
| + | If so much lies underground—how much more lies under the veil of silence. It is naïve to |
| + | insist, after the first cautious response. An authoritative astrologer assures us that |
| + | he knows nothing—has only heard rumors. Another who is versed in the ways of antiquity |
| + | just now insists he has not even heard of such things. And why should they answer |
| + | otherwise? They must not betray. Most heinous is treason—and there are many traitors. We |
| + | discern the true devotion and behind it the structure of the future. |
| + | |
| + | It is said that Solomon manifested such devotion toward the Temple that even when |
| + | breathing his last, lest he interrupt or harm the work of construction, he remained |
| + | upright in prayer until an ant bored through his staff. The example of perseverance and |
| + | devotion! |
| + | |
| + | Unexplained have remained the strivings of Solomon toward the One Beginning, sheltering |
| + | all forms of knowledge. Abandoned Fatehpur-Sikri (near Agra) is full of the signs of |
| + | this unity which was understood by Akbar the Great who preached the spirit of One |
| + | Temple. In the center of the palace-court is still standing the temple of united |
| + | religion. Superficial writers wonder why the walls of this mysterious structure bear the |
| + | remains of such varied signs—the traces of Buddhism mingled with Hindu and Christian |
| + | fragments. This united torch was already manifested in life! |
| + | |
| + | “Wise in heart and mighty in strength; who hath resisted Him and hath had peace, Who |
| + | spreadeth out the heavens and treadeth upon the waves of the sea—Who maketh Arcturus and |
| + | Orion and the Pleiades and the inner part of the south—Who doeth things great and |
| + | incomprehensible and wonderful of which there is no number”—exclaims Job about the One. |
| + | And are not the mysterious signs of Watan and Senzar received by great lamas pointing |
| + | toward it? We asked the Lama, “Is it true that the? is approaching?” He looked closely |
| + | at us, then answered, “Such are the prophecies.” |
| + | |
| + | In 1924, according to Tibetan calculations, the new era began, for here a century is not |
| + | calculated as a hundred years but as sixty. |
| + | |
| + | You listen to the reading of the Bhagavad-Gita; you hear the exclamation of the Buddhist |
| + | servers of the temples. You listen to the singing of the choir. Does there not appear |
| + | before you the One Image—the One common Will toward happiness and joy, to the unity of |
| + | consciousness, embracing and conquering, to the exalting and enlightening Aum? |
| + | |
| + | Should we not reflect why all Covenants tell of the same active beginning? Why is the |
| + | manifestation of phenomena always accompanied not only by the same unexplainable words, |
| + | but always by a vivid action of spirit? The writings say, “He revolted.” And without the |
| + | wondrous “uprising,” without this invisible action, nothing is decisive. He realized and |
| + | became enlightened; became filled with invincible courage! |
| + | |
| + | The formulas themselves often astonish by their universality. In them are united the |
| + | summons of the mysteries with the prayers of the most unexpected cults separated by |
| + | whole epochs and whole continents. The language of the Mother of the World is the same |
| + | for all cradles. |
| + | |
| + | “Hallelujah, Hallelujah, Hallelujah,” or “Halelu, Halelu, Halelu” is a conjuration of |
| + | ancient rites. From the Chaldeans, Babylonians, through the Israelites it reached our |
| + | era. It is also known by several tribes of India. |
| + | |
| + | In this region the simple guide will suddenly turn around on his path and proclaim: “But |
| + | men must finally realize that all is one and all are equal! But will That soon come, |
| + | Which will unite men?” So thinks and ponders the simple, poor man, among the blue hills |
| + | of Sikhim. In the hope of the guide you discern the powerful proclamation of |
| + | Vivekananda; without depreciation, only in all powerful unity and righteous |
| + | understanding, he walked. One wishes that our priests of the West valued Buddha in the |
| + | same way as the enlightened lamas speak of us. Only in such benevolent understanding |
| + | lies the guarantee of the future structure. All creators of Community must be |
| + | recognized. |
| + | |
| + | Principally let us have less of ignorant denials. |
| + | |
| + | With difficulty one succeeds in getting plants which nurture the musk-deer. But how to |
| + | bring this mountain pine to the laboratory? Below the altitude of six thousand feet, the |
| + | plants perish. |
| + | |
| + | Most often from Bhutan the ragged, deep blue furling waves of fog crawl upward. Not only |
| + | the snowy ridges but also the steps to the mountain paths are wrapped in the dense mist. |
| + | It is difficult to believe there is a hidden glimmer. Shall we not begin denying the |
| + | very existence of the Himalayas? If they are invisible, that means they are |
| + | non-existent! Whenever something is invisible to us we presume it does not exist. Such |
| + | is the decision of ignorance. |
| + | |
| + | Intricate are the mountain paths with their many turns. How many are the earth-covered |
| + | pits under the horse’s hoofs! Many are the intercrossing currents and streams, with the |
| + | torpid dampness under the green-blue foliage. Truly many are the serpents beneath the |
| + | flowers. And the language of the murmuring foliage is incomprehensible. |
| + | |
| + | Early are the stars aglow here. Toward the East, undiminished, flames the |
| + | triple-constellation of Orion, this astonishing constellation which finds its way |
| + | through all teachings. In the archives of the old observatories, undoubtedly much |
| + | remarkable data could be found about it. The cults which surround some constellations |
| + | such as the Bear and Orion amaze you by their widespread popularity. |
| + | |
| + | The wisdom of the Shamans designates them for worship. Nor did Job accidentally point to |
| + | them alone as the supreme act of achievement. The glimmer spreads everywhere. In the |
| + | latest number of the Journal of the London Asiatic Society is this very important item: |
| + | “The Emperor Baber near the beginning of his memoirs says: ‘On the outskirts of Barakoh |
| + | is a mosque called the Jawza Madjid. The real meaning of the word is House of Orion. |
| + | Jawza is a name of Orion.’ ” With what ancient cult was the mosque pointed out by Baber |
| + | identified? It is now most likely effaced by the sands of the great desert. Thus we see |
| + | how unceasingly does Orion attract the eye of men. Again are the astronomic bulletins |
| + | telling of the inexplicable pink rays, which have suddenly flashed from this |
| + | constellation. The constellation of Orion contains the signs of the “Three Magi.” The |
| + | significance of Orion, too, in ancient teaching was compared to the significance of |
| + | Atlas, supporting the weight of the world. Verily, the Star of the East! |
| + | |
| + | Only in the East do you feel the vital sense of astrology and astro-chemistry in its |
| + | scientific import. The observatories in Jaipur and in Delhi overwhelm one with their |
| + | fantastic conviction. |
| + | |
| + | The air is pure. The small Lepchas, coolies of Sikhim, bear huge stones up to the |
| + | mountain on their backs. It is for the unknown structure. Their heads are bent so low |
| + | that one cannot distinguish their faces, because of the shawl and metal rings and |
| + | chains. Will they be able to bear it safely? How is it possible to overload a body four |
| + | feet high with such an immeasurable burden of stones! Yet instead of groans you hear |
| + | laughter from under the bent back. Much laughter is heard in Sikhim. The further one |
| + | goes toward Tibet the more communicative are the people. And the more often one hears |
| + | singing accompanied by a pleasantry. The air is clearer here. |
| + | |
| + | The chief of the caravan is called Sardar. In his purple kaftan, he is mounted firmly on |
| + | the white mountain pony. Many are the white horses here. |
| + | |
| + | The caves of Kinchenjunga, where were guarded the treasures, are still far off. In one |
| + | of the caves is the statue of Padma Sambhava (teacher of Tibet) and behind it is seen a |
| + | stone door—never yet opened by man. And yet they say: “Nothing remains hidden!” |
| + | |
| + | The human consciousness often is “like a dog’s tail. If it has curled itself—no matter |
| + | how you straighten it out, it still persists in curling back.” Thus it was told by the |
| + | ancient Chinese. |
| + | |
| + | But it is also known how completely the consciousness has been transformed by a mere |
| + | touch. |
| + | |
| + | “Why do you not tell us all you know, as if you were strewing pearls or setting |
| + | landmarks?” By these signposts you yourself will pass the entire way. You alone—by human |
| + | feet. According to your growth shall you yourself gather pearls. By your own hands shall |
| + | you match them. By your own hands will you develop dynamic power. “You will return” and |
| + | project your will. |
| + | |
| + | Otherwise matter will again not flow out in the “song of ceaseless labor.” In this way, |
| + | superficial curiosity will be divided from true striving. They tell of one “modern sage” |
| + | who offered to found an institute where anyone coming from the street could at once be |
| + | convinced of phenomena. But this “sage” forgot to offer these strange comers from the |
| + | street at least the wherewithal to wash their hands for the tests. There are ways which |
| + | we must approach only with pure hands and with our own will. |
| + | |
| + | And if through the shell of the objects of every day you will be enabled to behold the |
| + | summits of the cosmos—what a new wondrous and undiminishing outlook shall the world have |
| + | for the unsheathed eye. The medical lore of the ancients acclaimed laughter as useful |
| + | for the purification of the glands. How useful then must a smile be for the brain! Thus |
| + | shall the trembling conjuries of fear be transformed into the valiant call of joy. |
| + | |
| + | **TASHIDING** |
| + | |
| + | The motley figures of hell are being trampled down by the powerful feet of the White |
| + | Guards. Red and green “guardians of the entrances,” many-armed and with horrible grins, |
| + | are threatening the violators. In explosive gasps flare up the gold tongues of the |
| + | primeval flame. The misty aureoles of lights are glowing. . . . |
| + | |
| + | With cold respect or else with a clerical sense of the scientific, do we examine the |
| + | Tibetan and Nepal banner-paintings in the British Museum, the Musée Guimet in Paris, or |
| + | the Field Museum in Chicago. But in a completely different attitude do we approach the |
| + | same paintings on this site, and they speak to you quite differently. Every gesture of |
| + | Buddha’s hand is of vital meaning for the local world. The good and evil entities with |
| + | their endless symbols are transformed from ornaments into a living epos. The images are |
| + | enfolded in a stirring harmony of tones. The finest of these are of ancient work |
| + | although the new paintings are also at times excellent. |
| + | |
| + | Let us predict for these images a great future—just as twenty years ago the future |
| + | importance of the old Russian ikons was predicted. Merited attention has been given to |
| + | the Chinese and Japanese art. An elaborate literature has expressed this free art |
| + | concisely. But after a study of classic Egypt, after the subtlety of Japan, after the |
| + | romance of China and after the arabesque of the Persian and Mogul miniature, now appears |
| + | a new object for study and admiration. The art of Central Asia is coming to the fore. In |
| + | the fiery fantasy; in the dignity of the fine form; in the intense and complex gradation |
| + | of tones is manifested this completely unique and striking art. But in its quiescent |
| + | expression this art responds to the mystery of the cradle of humanity. In itself it |
| + | forms Asia, to which in time shall be directed inquiries and researches. |
| + | |
| + | Only, it is necessary to knock upon the doors of this beauty without threats, without |
| + | weapons, without pillage. With full readiness must we gather the pearls of profound and |
| + | anonymous achievements; without superficial scientific hypocrisy and without bribed |
| + | treachery. |
| + | |
| + | To study the life of a nightingale by first killing it—is it not barbaric? |
| + | |
| + | One remembers keenly some objects discovered by Kozloff in Kara-khoto in Mongolia. |
| + | Especially does one recall the wondrous image of the woman’s head. If such a people |
| + | lived in the silenced cities of the deserts—how far were these places from being a |
| + | wilderness! |
| + | |
| + | Wisely, wisely did the deserts succeed in guarding for posterity new treasures, and not |
| + | only material treasures. . . |
| + | |
| + | One must recall not only the swords of the Tartar in measuring the life of Central Asia. |
| + | There are also the tents of all travelers and searchers. Even to the Khan’s camps were |
| + | summoned the finest of artists. |
| + | |
| + | I remember how badly fared one young doctor who was sent to Urga in Mongolia for |
| + | service. Poor soul, he knew not what and how to search. If the young generation could |
| + | realize what treasures were prepared for it, and lie at the edge of the road—unlifted. |
| + | Sometimes it is only a question of lifting up the treasures. |
| + | |
| + | A little shepherd boy found 120 pounds of gold in Scythian objects, because he was |
| + | attracted by the glimmer of metal which sparkled on the slope of the hill, washed off by |
| + | the rain. How many such sparks are glimmering! But often our eyes are dulled by |
| + | laziness. |
| + | |
| + | The blessed Maitreya is always represented crowned by a wreath, in a great image. Three |
| + | years ago, a gigantic image of Maitreya, bearer of the new age of universal Unity, was |
| + | placed in Tashi-Lunpo, the monastery of the Tashi Lama. This idea has been invoked with |
| + | the new approaching era of Tibetan chronology. |
| + | |
| + | During the service in the temples smoking Tibetan tea is passed around. Therein is the |
| + | idea of the Grail in this filling of the vessels before the Blessed Image. One must |
| + | never leave the vessel empty—this is contrary to the custom of the East. Then the |
| + | gigantic trumpets are sounded, like the voices of storm and thunder, with their summons |
| + | to the future. Backs adorned with their purple mantles are bent low, thinking of the |
| + | future. And like a fiery field, under the image of the Dream of the World, one hundred |
| + | and eight fires are glimmering. |
| + | |
| + | In a special compartment are guarded the masks of the keepers. Is it possible that these |
| + | frightful visages can symbolize the way of benevolence? However, these are not symbols |
| + | of benevolence but symbols of earthly elemental forces. For there is the heaven and the |
| + | earth. |
| + | |
| + | Even the physical world of Tantrik teaching, which has been so degraded in modern |
| + | understanding, must be conceived sublimely. The teacher, Padma Sambhava, would not have |
| + | proclaimed only a physical teaching. |
| + | |
| + | I look upon an ancient painting of the Monastery Daling. Here are the acts of the |
| + | teacher, Padma Sambhava. All his forces are represented in action. Here is the teacher |
| + | as a black-hatted lama with Solomon’s Star upon his headdress, striking a dragon. Here |
| + | is the teacher summoning the rain. Here he saves a drowning one; he charms small evil |
| + | spirits; weaponless, he conquers beasts and by a magic weapon he smites a tiger, first |
| + | covering his head with the sacred triangle. Here he makes the serpents harmless; here he |
| + | conjures the stormy current; and he sends rain. Now he fearlessly converses with the |
| + | gigantic mountain spirit. Here the teacher flies above all mountains. Now out of the |
| + | shelter of the cave he hastens to comfort the world. And finally in the circle of a poor |
| + | family, he prays for a benign sea voyage for the absent master of the house. No matter |
| + | how clouded is his teaching now, its foundation stills gleams through. |
| + | |
| + | Or again, another ancient painting: “The Paradise of Padma Sambhava.” The teacher sits |
| + | in the Temple surrounded by the Righteous Ones. The Temple stands upon a mountain |
| + | separated from the earthly world by a blue river. Across the river are stretched |
| + | white hatiks (scarfs) and upon them the self-denying |
| + | voyagers are crossing to the temple. A clear picture of the illuminated ascent! Of |
| + | course, his commentators have besmirched even this manifestation. How encrusted with |
| + | false dogmas are also all religions. |
| + | |
| + | Of course, the teacher, Tsong-kha-pa, is still nearer. He rose beyond the confines of |
| + | magic. He forbade the monks to have recourse to magic powers. His teaching—that of the |
| + | Yellow Lamas—seems less spoiled. |
| + | |
| + | On New Year’s Eve, February 4, after sunset, the fires in the monasteries upon the hill |
| + | dart up. And the ringing gongs and the far-away drums reverberate. ... In the morning |
| + | are held the dances. |
| + | |
| + | Before the New Year, the evil entities are destroyed by conjurations and dances. In the |
| + | Dance of the Stags, the effigy of the evil entity is hacked and its parts strewn around. |
| + | In the midst of the circle proudly walks the Guardian of the Teaching, brandishing his |
| + | sword—while black-headed lamas whirl around, swirling the wings of their broad sleeves. |
| + | Musicians in high yellow hats are coming to the fore, like Berendeys in “Snowmaiden.” |
| + | And above the ornamented cornices of the temple the eagles wheel, while from the turrets |
| + | of the hill the assembled crowds stand out in colorful relief. |
| + | |
| + | The dances themselves on the New Year’s day acquire significance, with their frightful |
| + | symbols of evil entities. How far removed is the impression made by these awe-inspiring |
| + | masks, against the sunny background of the Himalayas, from the oppressive dark corners |
| + | of Museums where these examples are so often collected, frightening the visitor by the |
| + | apparition of a conventional hell! Of course, this hell is invoked only for the |
| + | terrifying of the weakly developed souls, and much fantasy is devoted to the |
| + | intensifying of these hellish countenances. |
| + | |
| + | In the monastery of the Red Caps the impression is not so luminous. In the Red |
| + | Monasteries of Padma Sambhava this symbolization is more physically conventional. The |
| + | play starts with a simple “mystery” of the judgment over the dead. The chief lord of |
| + | hell approaches with his assistants. The beastlike servitors drag forward the black soul |
| + | of a dead murderer. They weigh out his crimes. The chalice of his sins weighs down the |
| + | balance, and the murderer is thereupon thrust into a seething caldron. The same occurs |
| + | to the soul of a female sinner. |
| + | |
| + | But then there is summoned forth a saint in the vestments of a lama. He is adorned in a |
| + | white scarf. Of course, the court must be just, so three messengers of joy lead the |
| + | exalted one into paradise! |
| + | |
| + | Fifteen years ago there died a remarkable lama who came from Mongolia. We saw his |
| + | image—resembling the type of Russian ascetic. A powerful visage, unconquerably bold are |
| + | the cheek bones; the eyes are piercing. “During the departure of this strong spirit, a |
| + | rainbow shone over the monastery founded by him.” |
| + | |
| + | The lama possessed rare books—and it is very difficult to obtain rare books. One must |
| + | send a trusted person into remote districts. Remarkable books exist; there is the book |
| + | of one Tashi Lama, concerning his visit to sacred Shambhala. There are collections of |
| + | symbolic parables. There is a treatise on the transmigration of souls. They are not |
| + | translated. |
| + | |
| + | The teachings brought from Shambhala often find their way into the works of European |
| + | scientists. For instance, in the cemetery of Darjeeling is buried an enigmatic man, |
| + | Hungarian by birth, who lived at the end of the eighteenth century. He came walking from |
| + | Hungary to Tibet, remaining many years in unknown monasteries. In the thirties of the |
| + | last century, Csoma de Koros, as he was called, died. In his works he pointed out the |
| + | teachings from Shambhala, designating the next hierarchy to succeed Buddha. It is very |
| + | characteristic that this savant came here from Hungary. His activity was entirely |
| + | enigmatic. |
| + | |
| + | One more spark about Shambhala. A very well known Tashi Lama often fell into an ecstasy |
| + | during his talks with his pupils. Sometimes he seemed to disappear altogether, being |
| + | transported into the sanctuary, Shambhala. These ecstasies vividly transport one to the |
| + | discourses of the time of Saint John de la Croix with Saint Theresa when both blessed |
| + | conversationalists in exultation were raised to the ceiling of the room. |
| + | |
| + | Remembering exalted occurrences, one also recalls the sparks of indignation. “A |
| + | slanderer once approached Buddha, but the Blessed One was so indignant, that a spark of |
| + | lightning struck the offender. Of course, the Blessed One arrested the counterblow and |
| + | revived the defamer, but the latter had been so shocked that he forgot his plan of |
| + | attack. The sparks of the counterblow!” |
| + | |
| + | “The case is also told that Sengchen Lama, before his execution in Lhasa, pointed out |
| + | that he would soon reincarnate again on earth. And truly very soon in Chinese Turkestan |
| + | a boy was born with the same rare and characteristic physical defect on his knee, which |
| + | distinguished the late Lama. Now this Mongolian prince is more than twenty years of age. |
| + | At present in our service is the son of the servant of the late Lama, and he was wont to |
| + | travel on the errands of his father to the young prince.” |
| + | |
| + | Whoever is acquainted with riding horseback in Caucasia or in the Arizona and Colorado |
| + | canyons, will know how to climb the steeps of the hills of Sikhim. Only, instead of the |
| + | colorful tragedy of American wonders, here you behold an ascending garden cultivated by |
| + | the mysterious rise of exalted teaching. And in its unknown caves sit hermits, who upon |
| + | the strings of earth are composing the legend of celestial life. |
| + | |
| + | He who has known the approaches to the old monasteries and ancient town sites in Russia |
| + | with their blossoming hills and fragrant pine groves, will understand the feeling on the |
| + | approach to the monasteries of Sikhim. I always repeat that if you want to see a |
| + | beautiful spot, ask the inhabitants of a town to point out the most ancient site. These |
| + | people of times immemorial knew how to select the most beautiful places. |
| + | |
| + | Every mountain summit is crowned by a |
| + | beautiful mendong, with its wheels of life, its |
| + | prayers carved in relief and with its niches for seats from which you behold the image |
| + | of the far-off distances. Here lamas and travelers are meditating. Here banners are |
| + | fluttering. Here each rider will slow down his horse. |
| + | |
| + | From the mountain summit you plunge again into the receding hills. The ribs of the |
| + | checkered hillocks also disappear, like the backs of panthers, tigers and wolves. |
| + | |
| + | After the hills, again the fairy-tales of the forest. Green gnomes and monsters impede |
| + | the way. The verdant webs intertwine. The snakes wind themselves around the trunks. The |
| + | moss-like tigers and leopards here are lurking. An enchanted world this! |
| + | |
| + | The most fantastic hills and rocks form themselves into a seeming Sacred Chalice—a vast |
| + | valley. In the center of the valley unapproachably stands the mountain of |
| + | the White Stone, girded by two rivers. It is crowned |
| + | by the Monastery Tashiding, which means “Valley open to heaven.” An ancient place this. |
| + | Try to search the endless wrinkles and cavities of its rocks. Try to unearth the |
| + | treasures collected by the monastery—the miraculous stone, fulfillment of all wishes; |
| + | the immortal Amritha and a hundred images of Buddha; as well as all the sacred books |
| + | temporarily hidden; and all else spoken of in the ancient manuscript, “The Voyage |
| + | through Sikhim.” |
| + | |
| + | The approaches to Tashiding are very difficult. Only recently have the impossible trails |
| + | been transformed into steep footpaths. Verily, the path of the spirit must be traversed |
| + | by human feet! |
| + | |
| + | One crossing on the suspended bamboo bridge is especially hazardous. Below, the mountain |
| + | river rushes and roars, bearing down the icy current from Kinchenjunga. And above the |
| + | bridge on the steep slope, you pause many times. Shall I at last arrive? One must hold |
| + | one’s breath to conquer this age-old mountain. |
| + | |
| + | Upon the upper slope an honorary reception is arranged for us by the land owners. Ale, |
| + | sugar-cane and tangerines await us, under the canopy of rushes adorned with their yellow |
| + | garlands. Farther off resound the reverberant drums and silver gongs. The reception of |
| + | the monastery. On the last slope we are met by the pipers and trumpeters. |
| + | |
| + | Amidst the rows of a colorful crowd you reach the ancient place. Behind the gates of the |
| + | monastery, the lamas receive you in purple garments. In the front row a venerable old |
| + | man, head lama of the monastery, stands like a delicately carved image of the fifteenth |
| + | century. Thus you walk up to the spreading turquoise tents in the midst of a forest of |
| + | stupas and amidst many-colored banners, amidst the sparkling rows of fires. |
| + | |
| + | In the first full moon after New Year, which fell this year on the twentieth of |
| + | February, there was the annual festival in Tashiding. The miracle of the self-filling |
| + | chalice occurs at the time. |
| + | |
| + | Since ancient days—more than eight generations ago—this miracle has been ordained. From |
| + | a designated spot in the mountain river a small vessel of water is drawn and poured into |
| + | an ancient wooden chalice. In the presence of witnesses, representatives of the |
| + | Maharajah of Sikhim, the chalice is closed and hermetically sealed. A year later at |
| + | sunrise during the same full moon, the chalice is unsealed amidst due ceremony and the |
| + | quantity of water is measured. Sometimes the water has diminished but sometimes it has |
| + | increased considerably. In the year of the great war the water tripled in quantity, |
| + | which meant war. Now the water has diminished by half, which means famine and disorder. |
| + | |
| + | This evil omen has been intensified by another sign. On February twentieth there |
| + | occurred a complete eclipse of the moon. Never has there been so evil a sign. |
| + | |
| + | The trumpets sound, the whistles shriek, the people in costumes, as though from the |
| + | “Snowmaiden,” proceed to the great stupa. The choir, singing, winds its way around the |
| + | crowds. Many prostrate themselves. The drums of the lamas resoundingly thunder. At this |
| + | moment darkness falls athwart the clear moonlight! The golden fires of offerings gleam |
| + | out as though against black velvet. A complete eclipse occurs! The demon Rakhu has |
| + | stolen the moon! Never was it so until this day of miracle in Tashiding. |
| + | |
| + | Said Asura Rakhu to the sun: “Because thou hast carried away Razayana by deceit, I shall |
| + | swallow thee, god of sun, at that time when, on the thirtieth day, you will unite the |
| + | knots of the orbit!” And further Rakhu pronounced a prophetic threat: “In penalty that |
| + | thou, moon, although recognizing me, commanded that I be cut asunder, I shall seize thee |
| + | and devour thee on the date of the fifteenth, during the time of the full moon!” And |
| + | attentively the people are watching the eclipse of the moon and sun and beat upon the |
| + | drums and threaten Rakhu. |
| + | |
| + | But there was also one good omen. At sunrise the head lama beheld garlands of fire |
| + | starting to glow upon the peaks of the mountains. |
| + | |
| + | When the moon was restored to the world, the dancing commenced around the main stupa, a |
| + | typical Russian round. The songs are also like the Russian; their import is spiritual. |
| + | “In a monastery dwells our Lord Buddha. We bring to him our offering”—so begins one |
| + | song; or “Mighty is the sacred book but I shall find a spot for it close to my heart” |
| + | or, “I recollect the sacred monastery.” |
| + | |
| + | In a white kaftan the artist who decorated the local temple approaches. We have arranged |
| + | for him to go with us to paint the Blessed Maitreya. He will demonstrate the technique |
| + | of the local painting. |
| + | |
| + | Red, yellow, white, purple kaftans; women’s sleeves of crimson, green and white. Peaked |
| + | hats, fur-edged. The people talk, sing, and for two nights walk around the stupa. |
| + | |
| + | They are touching their foreheads to the stone upon which the teacher, Padma Sambhava |
| + | gave his benediction of the site. They walk around another stone bearing the imprint of |
| + | the teacher’s foot and the imprint of hoofs and paws of beasts. And again the chorus |
| + | marches around the stupa, singing of the fulfillment of all desires. |
| + | |
| + | Entering the temple, you walk along your left up to the wall of the altar. Within the |
| + | temples of the Yellow Sect, in the center of the altar wall, is the statue of Buddha. Or |
| + | now, perhaps Maitreya-Buddha is at the right. Sometimes the lower temple is dedicated to |
| + | Padma Sambhava and the upper one to Buddha. These positions are closely related to the |
| + | inner meanings of the teachings. Buddha represents heaven; Padma Sambhava the earth. |
| + | Upon the side niches are images of Avalokiteshvara—a spiritual conclave of brotherhood, |
| + | many-headed and many-armed, like our Russian Hundred-Armed One. There are also statues |
| + | of the “Keepers of Lightning,” of the founders of Monasteries and of sixteen Arhats, |
| + | sitting in carved caves. Upon the altar are lamps and various offerings, seven chalices |
| + | with water, a saucer of rice, censers with incense, a shrine with relics. |
| + | |
| + | The walls are generally covered with frescoes, especially one wall, that of the altar. |
| + | At the entrance stand the images of the guardians of the four hemispheres. In every |
| + | temple will be found an image of the seven treasures vouchsafed to humanity; among them |
| + | on a white horse is the image of the miraculous stone. |
| + | |
| + | In a special compartment are kept the sacred books. The common dream of the monasteries |
| + | is to increase the number of books; but books are expensive—a sacred volume costs up to |
| + | a thousand rupees. |
| + | |
| + | Especially touching is the service of the thousand lights, in the evening, here in the |
| + | low frescoed temple, with its columns and ornamented beams. In the center is a long |
| + | table on which fires are set; along the walls also stand rows of lights, and this sea of |
| + | fires caressingly undulates and sways, wrapped in a veil of smoke from the sandalwood, |
| + | wild mint and other fragrances, which are consumed in the urns. During this service the |
| + | singing, too, is of exquisite harmony. |
| + | |
| + | Along all paths, the caravans of the pilgrims wind their way. High saddles are covered |
| + | with bright fabrics. Wild white ponies are bearing the bulging-bellied luggage. There |
| + | are crowds of pilgrims seeking a resting place for the night. Here and there are a few |
| + | banners raised in memory of the living and more often for the dead. A crowd up to one |
| + | thousand two hundred collects together—but a peaceful, good crowd. |
| + | |
| + | At early dawn, long before sunrise, when the snows on the mountain are still soft amber, |
| + | the camp begins to stir. The drone of life creeps along and broadens; the cadence of |
| + | early prayer mingles with the stamping of horses and mules. |
| + | |
| + | In the morning, a procession makes its way toward our tents. The head lama himself |
| + | proclaims the bringing of gifts. After him follow high uplifted trays with rice, with |
| + | the ribs of a ram, with sugar-cane, with ale and fruit. The lama himself makes the |
| + | offering to our traveling kitchen. |
| + | |
| + | Amidst the stupas are spread the tents of the pilgrims. Here under a green canopy are |
| + | sitting lamas from Tibet. Women are turning the lengthy pages of the prayer book for |
| + | them. The lamas are intoning Tantrik songs, to the sounds of hand drums and gongs. Where |
| + | is Stravinsky, Stokovsky, Prokofieff, where Zavadsky, to portray the powerful modes of |
| + | these stirring calls? And how fine is the white-gold face of her who turns the pages |
| + | before the singers. |
| + | |
| + | Not far off, a group from Nepal are clapping hands in rhythmic beat and chanting. In the |
| + | center, a woman, with features unmoved, ecstatically dances the Sherpa Dance, full of |
| + | the fine gestures of conjuration. Sometimes she moves her hands in a fluttering motion |
| + | like a bird and utters a weird birdlike call. It is indeed striking. |
| + | |
| + | There the wanderers from Bhutan are praying under a red canopy. Before the distribution |
| + | of the healing waters, a sacred procession walks around the stupas. In the front are |
| + | trumpeters in high red hats; after them the lamas in tiaras, and behind are borne a long |
| + | row of sacred books. |
| + | |
| + | At sunset, within the tent, the head lama quietly speaks of the sanctuaries of Sikhim. |
| + | He relates the “miracles” which he has heard, or has himself seen; of the buzzing of |
| + | swarms of invisible bees; of the singing and celestial music; of the apparitions of |
| + | sacred images. At our departure the lama pointed out two gracious omens. Upon our way, |
| + | coming to meet us, were three brimming bamboo water-pails carried by water carriers and |
| + | two woodsmen with full fagots of wood. |
| + | |
| + | **PEMAYANGTSE** |
| + | |
| + | Tashiding is one of Sikhim’s prominent sites and belongs to the parish of a great |
| + | monastery, Pemayangtse, and is a day’s travel away. It is also on the peak, standing |
| + | like a bulwark. It has been newly rebuilt. Its renovation has been done with such |
| + | sensitiveness that even the most recent painting gives you joy by its fine and ingenious |
| + | decoration. And the carvings on the casements are fairylike. And the tall heavy doorways |
| + | lead you into the wooden temples of Russia. Dignified are the head lamas with their |
| + | festive purple garments and with their impressive red tiaras adorning their heads. |
| + | Nevertheless one recalls with most pleasure the eighty-year-old abbot of Tashiding, ever |
| + | zealous and careful to improve his structure, with his economical eye penetrating |
| + | everywhere. |
| + | |
| + | Behind the gates of Pemayangtse three-hundred-year-old ancient trees are standing as |
| + | guardians—like the fairy forest of Berendey. A tiny street of the lamas’ homes is like |
| + | the suburb of Berendey, painted and ornamented with its many-colored porches and |
| + | stairways. |
| + | |
| + | Here is “Heaven’s Sacred Mountain” and upon its peaks shines a small mountain lake. |
| + | There is also a small temple erected on the spot where the founder of the Red Sect in |
| + | Sikhim lived. From Dubdi, the founder passed to the Sacred Lake and thence into the |
| + | ancient Sanga Chöling. |
| + | |
| + | The four most ancient monasteries of Sikhim are Dubdi, Sanga Chöling, Daling and |
| + | Robling. And the meanings of their names are noble ones: “Palace of Meditation,” “Island |
| + | of Secret Teaching,” “Island of Lightning” and “Island of Happy Striving.” |
| + | |
| + | An excellent monastery is Sanga Chöling; nor do we forget Daling with its blue-white, |
| + | porcelain-like entrance amidst a bamboo grove. Here at the altar is preciously kept a |
| + | sealed box containing relics of the founder of the monastery. There are banners—gold on |
| + | a black background. In Sanga Chöling there are no relics, but there lies a stone made |
| + | sacred by the blessing of the founder; when the life in the monastery is undefiled the |
| + | stone is firm, but each besmirching of life makes the stone crack. |
| + | |
| + | Here are those tiny doors, beloved to me in Novgorod and Yaroslavl. Here is beautiful |
| + | fresco painting. Here are the polychrome ornaments entwining all casements of the |
| + | windows and doors. Here are the same rounded backs of pilgrims devoted to the faith, and |
| + | the fires of dedicated offerings. Our coolies are also lighting a fire—a true widow’s |
| + | mite. And above them adamantly rises “the Keeper of Lightning.” |
| + | |
| + | Although the teacher, Padma Sambhava, was never in Pemayangtse, yet in the monastery are |
| + | kept the things which belonged to this founder of the religion. The things are kept |
| + | sealed but on some occasions are shown; a garment, headdress, beads, tiny bells of a |
| + | wondrous chime, two magic daggers and a small exquisite image of Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | And the trumpets sound more thunderous in Pemayangtse and the dragon guardians seem more |
| + | terrifying and the influence of the monastery is greater. The ruins of the palace of the |
| + | Maharajah are near. According to the biblical custom the first Maharajah was chosen to |
| + | reign by the head of the religion. But there is no figure of Maitreya in the big |
| + | monastery. |
| + | |
| + | A few solitary temples with a single fire before them, surrounded by peach and rose |
| + | flowers and intertwining orchids and wild peonies, more closely indicate the path of |
| + | simple attainment of the Teaching. |
| + | |
| + | Out of the forest walks a peasant and his head is adorned with white flowers. Where is |
| + | this possible? Only in Sikhim. |
| + | |
| + | Are the inhabitants of Sikhim poor? Where there are no riches there is no poverty. The |
| + | people are living simply. Upon the hills, amidst blossoming trees, stand the quiet |
| + | little houses. Through the colored branches shine the bright stars and glimmer the |
| + | snow-covered peaks. Here are people carrying their vegetables; here they pasture their |
| + | cattle and smile kindly. Here with fairylike music they walk along the steep paths in |
| + | wedding processions. Knowing of reincarnation they quietly cremate the bodies. And they |
| + | are singing. Mark, they are often singing. |
| + | |
| + | Verily, one can sing under a canopy of various flowers and plants. Orchids, like |
| + | colorful eyes, cling to the trunks of the giant trees. Pink, purple and yellow bouquets |
| + | are strewn along the way like bright sparks. And these are not simply plants; many have |
| + | their ancient powers of healing. |
| + | |
| + | Nature awaits here full of gifts. Come hither and be cured. Charura, Parura, Orrura are |
| + | the three important curative fruits against cough, cold and fever. Charura is like a |
| + | yellow cherry; Parura like a green chestnut and Orrura like a yellowish-green |
| + | crab-apple. All three are sharp to the taste and full of tannin. Here is the red bark of |
| + | Aku Ombo, to cure wounds. Salve against fever is Sergi Phurba, like a dry giant bean. |
| + | Chuta, the dry bitter root, will cure swelling and heal the throat. Bassack is a brown |
| + | powder for colds. The red-stemmed Tze produces magenta; bitter Purma is for incenses. A |
| + | broth from the roots of Berekuro is effective for women’s ailments. The flowers of |
| + | Dangero heal the stomach, much like the flower of the red rhododendron; while the leaf |
| + | of Dysro is a disinfectant for wounds. Memshing Pati is a sacred plant in Nepal, where |
| + | it is used for head ornaments at festivals. Endless are the useful plants awaiting the |
| + | best application and study. |
| + | |
| + | The leaves of the herb Ava Duti are said “to soften” stones, just as do |
| + | the “snow-frogs” in the Himalayas. Therefore if upon |
| + | a stone you see the print of an elk’s foot or the paw of an animal, it seems they have |
| + | eaten or touched this wondrous herb. Turning again to legends: near Phalut on the road |
| + | to Kinchenjunga grows a precious plant, the black aconite. Its flower lights up at |
| + | night, and by its glow one locates this rare plant. Here again is the trace of the |
| + | legend of the Russian fire flower, that enchanted blossom which fulfills all wishes—and |
| + | which leads us not to superstition but to that same source wherein so much still lies |
| + | concealed. |
| + | |
| + | Before our gates a strange gift was found. The branches of a fir tree, rhododendron and |
| + | some other plants were there, with their leaves pointing to our house, and covered with |
| + | a flat stone. This is Sunnium (a conjuration) and the man who raises this offering |
| + | receives upon himself all which is sworn upon it, whether of good or evil, sickness or |
| + | sorrow or joy. For many days it lay there and even horses shied at it. The same |
| + | conjuration we observed in the suburb of Jaipur; there in the middle of a street, in a |
| + | flat basket, lay a lamb’s liver, flowers and three silver rupees. None touched them. |
| + | These conjurations are of very ancient origin. |
| + | |
| + | Everywhere are legends of the accidental discoveries of sacred spots, the revelation of |
| + | which was followed by dumbness and even death. Thus it is told that one Shikari (a |
| + | hunter) in Assam, accidentally wandered into a sacred place and beheld its mysteries, |
| + | and when he attempted to reveal them he was stricken dumb. |
| + | |
| + | On the shore of the sea a stick is moving. It moves on alone and near the top of it is |
| + | tied a lighted tinder. Thus do the conjurers of the coast of Malabar invoke their |
| + | conjurations to burn the house of an enemy. Doctor Jones of Calcutta tried to overtake |
| + | such a stick but it “walked away” beyond his own pace. |
| + | |
| + | A legend from around Mongolia: “A venerated mother died and her son was desirous that a |
| + | high lama possessed of exalted powers should perform the services over her. But such a |
| + | lama could not be found. The son at the moment of death deposited the spirit of the |
| + | departing one into a sandalwood casket, strongly sealed this sanctuary and himself |
| + | invited the best lamas from Tibet. The lamas concentrated upon the casket; one of them |
| + | began to change in countenance, first becoming red, then blue from exertion. Then |
| + | suddenly the casket burst into splinters before the eyes of all. This lama was able to |
| + | free the spirit and thus could perform the service.” |
| + | |
| + | The people here know everything; they have heard everything. One can remember and |
| + | disclose all things in the twilight: of “Nam-Yg” (heavenly letters)—the letters and |
| + | sacred books which are falling from heaven; of rings of silver or turquoise which change |
| + | their color as a sign of foreboding and warning; of Si, the stone |
| + | bead, sent from heaven to guard the health; of the finding of objects which disappear |
| + | afterward. All this is known. |
| + | |
| + | A woman was very pious and dreamt that she might receive the image of Buddha. Working in |
| + | the morning amid her flowers she discovered an image and brought it into her shrine. But |
| + | soon she forgot it and Buddha disappeared from the shrine. Next time the woman found in |
| + | her garden a whirling sparkling stone and put it into a coffer and forgot it. Then the |
| + | stone disappeared. Neglect always results in the disappearance of the bestowed |
| + | happiness. |
| + | |
| + | Do not record the things which can be read in books but those which are related to you |
| + | in person; for those thoughts are the living ones. Not by the book but by the thought |
| + | shall you judge life. Understand the sparks of the primordial bliss. |
| + | |
| + | In the twilight under the flowing stars, in the purple sheen of the mist, sounds the |
| + | soft voice of the lama, telling his calm tale of the “King of the World,” of His power, |
| + | of His action and wisdom, of His legions, in which each warrior shall be possessed of |
| + | some extraordinary gift. And he tells of the dates of the new age of general well-being. |
| + | |
| + | The tale is taken from an ancient Tibetan book, wherein, under symbolic names, are given |
| + | the future movements of the Dalai Lama and Tashi Lama, which have already been |
| + | fulfilled. There are described the special physical marks of rulers under whom the |
| + | country shall fall during the reign of the monkeys. But afterwards shall the rule be |
| + | regained and then will come Someone of greatness. His coming is calculated in twelve |
| + | years—which will be in 1936. |
| + | |
| + | When the time came for the Blessed Buddha to depart from this earth He was asked by four |
| + | lords of Dharmapala to bequeath to mankind His image. The Blessed One consented and |
| + | designated the most worthy artist, but the artist could not take the exact measurements |
| + | because his hand trembled so when he approached the Blessed One. Then said Buddha, “I |
| + | shall stand near the water. Thou shalt take the measurements from my reflection.” And |
| + | the artist was thus enabled to do so, and executed four images, modeled from a sacred |
| + | alloy of seven metals. Two of these images are now in Lhasa and the remaining two are |
| + | still hidden until the appointed time. |
| + | |
| + | One Tibetan ruler married Chinese and Nepal princesses in order that through them he |
| + | might attract to Tibet the two sacred images of Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | Twelve hundred years after Buddha, the teacher Padma Sambhava brought the teachings of |
| + | the Blessed One closer to men. At the birth of Padma Sambhava all the skies were aglow |
| + | and the shepherds saw miraculous tokens. The eight-year-old Teacher was manifested to |
| + | the world in the Lotus flower. Padma Sambhava did not die but departed to teach new |
| + | countries. Had he not done so the world would be threatened with disaster. |
| + | |
| + | In the cave Kandro Sampo, not far from Tashiding, near a certain hot spring, dwelt Padma |
| + | Sambhava himself. A certain giant, thinking to penetrate across to Tibet, attempted to |
| + | build a passage into the Sacred Land. The Blessed Teacher rose up and growing great in |
| + | height struck the bold venturer. Thus was the giant destroyed. And now in the cave is |
| + | the image of Padma Sambhava and behind it is a stone door. It is known that behind this |
| + | door the Teacher hid sacred mysteries for the future. But the dates for their revelation |
| + | have not yet come. |
| + | |
| + | Wherefore do the giant trumpets in the Buddhist temples have so resonant a tone? The |
| + | ruler of Tibet decided to summon from India, from the place where dwelt the Blessed One, |
| + | a learned lama, in order to purify the fundamentals of the teaching. How to meet the |
| + | guest? The High Lama of Tibet, having had a vision, gave the design of a new trumpet so |
| + | that the guest should be received with unprecedented sound; and the meeting was a |
| + | wonderful one—not by the wealth of gold but by the grandeur of sound! |
| + | |
| + | Why do the gongs in the temple ring out with such great volume? And as silver, resound |
| + | the gongs and bells at dawn and evening, when the atmosphere is tense. Their sound |
| + | reminds one of the legend of the great Lama and the Chinese emperor. In order to test |
| + | the knowledge and clairvoyance of the Lama, the emperor made for him a seat from sacred |
| + | books and covering them with fabrics, invited the guest to sit down. The Lama made |
| + | certain prayers and then sat down. The emperor demanded of him, “If your knowledge is so |
| + | universal, how could you sit down on the sacred books?” “There are no sacred volumes,” |
| + | answered the Lama. And the astonished emperor, instead of his sacred volumes, found only |
| + | blank papers. The emperor thereupon gave to the Lama many gifts and bells of liquid |
| + | chime. But the Lama ordered them to be thrown into the river, saying, “I will not be |
| + | able to carry these. If they are necessary to me, the river will bring these gifts to my |
| + | monastery.” And indeed the waters carried to him the bells, with their crystal chimes, |
| + | clear as the waters of the river. |
| + | |
| + | “Talismans. A mother many times asked her son to bring to her a sacred relic of Buddha. |
| + | But the youth forgot her request. She said to him, ‘I shall die here before your eyes if |
| + | you will not bring it to me now.’ The son went to Lhasa and again forgot the mother’s |
| + | request. A half day’s journey from his home, he recalled the promise. But where can one |
| + | find sacred objects in the desert? There is nought. But the traveler espies the skull of |
| + | a dog. He decides to take out a tooth and folding it in yellow silk he brings it to the |
| + | house. The old woman asks of him, ‘Have you forgotten again my last request, my son?’ He |
| + | then gives her the dog’s tooth wrapped in silk, saying, ‘This is the tooth of Buddha.’ |
| + | And the mother puts the tooth into her shrine, and performs before it the most sacred |
| + | rites, directing all her worship to her holy of holies. And the miracle is accomplished. |
| + | The tooth begins to glow with pure rays and many miracles and sacred manifestations |
| + | result from it.” |
| + | |
| + | A man searched for twelve years for Maitreya-Buddha. Nowhere did he find him, and |
| + | becoming angry, he rejected his faith. As he walked along his way he beheld one who with |
| + | a horsehair was sawing an iron rod, repeating to himself, “If the whole of life is not |
| + | enough yet will I saw this through.” Confusion fell upon him—“What do my twelve years |
| + | mean,” he said, “in the face of such persistence? I will return to my search.” Thereupon |
| + | Maitreya-Buddha himself appeared before the man and said, “Long already have I been with |
| + | you but you did not see me, and you repulsed me and spat upon me. I will make a test. Go |
| + | to the bazaar. I will be upon your shoulder.” The man went, aware that he carried |
| + | Maitreya. But the men around him shrank from him, closing their noses and eyes. |
| + | “Wherefore do you shrink from, me, people?” he asked. “What a fright you have on your |
| + | shoulder—an ill-smelling dog full of boils!” they replied. Again the people did not see |
| + | Maitreya-Buddha, for each beheld only what he was worthy of seeing. |
| + | |
| + | The lama says, “There are three kinds of teaching—one for the stranger, one for our own, |
| + | and the third for the initiated who can retain. Now through ignorance they slaughter |
| + | animals, they drink wine, they have property and eat meat and live squalidly. Does |
| + | religion permit all this? Where is beauty, there is teaching; where is teaching, there |
| + | is beauty. |
| + | |
| + | The people here are sensitive. Your emotions and desires are transmitted so easily. |
| + | Therefore know clearly what you desire. Otherwise instead of Buddha you shall behold the |
| + | dog. |
| + | |
| + | That which is hidden in the past is not of importance—that which in age-old books, |
| + | copied and unfinished, lies covered with dust. For the new construction, that which now |
| + | resolves itself into life is important. Not through library shelves but through the |
| + | living word is measured the possibility of future structures. |
| + | |
| + | Under Kinchenjunga are secreted the caves in which the treasures are resting. In stone |
| + | coffins the cave dwellers are praying, torturing themselves in the name of the future. |
| + | But the sun already has defined the future; not in secret caves but in full sunlight one |
| + | perceives the worship and expectation of Maitreya-Buddha. It is now three years since |
| + | the Tashi Lama solemnly and openly dedicated the great New Image in his Tashi-lhunpo. |
| + | The intense, invisible work progresses. |
| + | |
| + | The Tashi Lama is now on his way to Mongolia by way of China. Unprecedented is this |
| + | event through the ages. Mystery! Incidentally, it may be that only the abducting |
| + | detachment passed through Sikhim and the Lama himself moved on to Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | On a sacred morning upon the mountain started to glow rows of fire—another mystery! |
| + | |
| + | Just now the wave of attention is turned toward Tibet—behind the mountain rampart events |
| + | are stirring, but Tibetan secrecy is great. Information is contradictory. Whither |
| + | disappeared the Tashi Lama? What military manoeuvers proceed on the Chinese border? What |
| + | transpires on the Mongolian line? A year of events! |
| + | |
| + | Sikhim is called the land of lightning. Of course, lightning also occurs here but is it |
| + | not simpler to call it “the land of future steps”? For it would be difficult to imagine |
| + | a better threshold to the mysteries of the future than this unexplored, rarely |
| + | penetrated country of rocks and flowers. |
| + | |
| + | As behind a tiny silver apple on a saucer, do the hills and steps of the Himalayas |
| + | reveal themselves. Hundreds, perhaps more, are the monasteries in Sikhim, each crowning |
| + | the top of a summit. A small temple in Chakong; a big suburgan and monastery in |
| + | Rinchenpong. Upon the next mountain appears gleaming white Pemayangtse, still higher, |
| + | Sanga Chöling. Tashiding is almost unseen. On the other side of the valley is Daling and |
| + | opposite Robling and still nearer Namtse. One may behold the monasteries for a distance |
| + | of forty miles for we must not forget that here one can see extremely far. |
| + | |
| + | And again before us is the wall to Tibet. And not the backbone of the lizard but the |
| + | snow-white girdle is outlined upon the peaks of this wall—the girdle of the earth. Let |
| + | us point the arrow northward—there must be the base of Mount Meru. |
| + | |
| + | The Talmud relates that the dove brought the first olive branch to Noah from Mount |
| + | Moriah. And Mount Moriah and the mountain Meru both lie in Asia. Here is the beginning |
| + | of all things. Here is the source for all travelers and all searchers. Here is raised |
| + | the first image of the Blessed Maitreya—Messiah—Muntazar Thrice |
| + | powerful M! Here above all disputes, the teachings have raised up the olive branch of |
| + | the new world. Here is ordained the universal commune. |
| + | |
| + | Someone voluntarily approached and touched our tent! Who is this man, with his long |
| + | black braid and a turquoise earring in his ear, and garbed in a white kaftan? It is the |
| + | Lama, Pema Don-dub, the local ikon painter. We ask, “Can you paint for us the Blessed |
| + | Maitreya, exactly like the one in Tashi-lhunpo?” He consents and now he sits on a tiny |
| + | rug in the corner of the white gallery, and with various pigments, paints the Image full |
| + | of symbols. He prepares the fabric for the painting and covers it |
| + | with levkas (a mixture of chalk on glue), and irons |
| + | it with a shell. He works exactly like Russian ikon painters. In the same way does he |
| + | grind his colors, heat them on a coal pan; and thus does he keep an additional brush in |
| + | his thick black hair. His Tibetan wife helps him to prepare his colors. |
| + | |
| + | And so, in the corner of the white gallery the ingenious, many-colored image is being |
| + | conceived. And each symbol upon it more clearly defines the Blessed One. Here is the |
| + | frightful birdlike Garuda and wise Magi and Ganeshi, elephant of happiness, and |
| + | Chintamani, the Steed, bearing on its back the miraculous stone, Treasure of the World. |
| + | A sacred cycle of chosen symbols. And upon the image and the hands is laid pure gold. |
| + | |
| + | Like our ikon painters, the artist lama chants hymns as he labors. The chants become |
| + | more fervent; this means he is beginning upon the Image itself. |
| + | |
| + | And another wonder occurs, only possible in this land. In the deep twilight when the |
| + | waxing moon possesses all things, one hears through the house the silvery tones of a |
| + | handmade flute. In the darkness the artist lama is sitting upon his rug, playing with |
| + | rapture before the image of Maitreya-Messiah-Muntazar. |
| + | |
| + | The Strings of the Earth! |
| + | |
| + | Talai-Pho-Brang. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/23.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,344 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 23 |
| + | |
| + | Where have passed the hordes of the great Mongols? Where has the lost tribe of Israel |
| + | concealed itself? Where does the “Throne of Solomon” stand? Where lie the paths of |
| + | Christ the Wanderer? Where do the bonfires of the Shamans, Bon-po, of the religion of |
| + | demons, glow? Where is Shalimar, the gardens of Jehangir? Where are the roads of Pamir, |
| + | Lhasa, Khotan? Where is the mysterious cave, Amarnath? Where is the path of Alexander |
| + | the Great to forgotten Taxila? Where are the walls of Akbar? Where did Ashvagosha teach? |
| + | Where did Avantisvamin create? Where are the citadels of Chandragupta-Maurya? Where are |
| + | the stones of wisdom of King Asoka? . . . All have passed by way of Kashmir. Here lie |
| + | the ancient ways of Asia. And each caravan flashes by as a connecting link in the great |
| + | body of the East. |
| + | |
| + | Here are the sandy deserts on the way to Peshawar; and the blue peaks of Sonamarg; and |
| + | the white slopes of Zoji-La. And in the flight of the eagles is the same untiring |
| + | spirit; in the fleet steed is the same unalterable motion. Nor does the world of roses |
| + | and shawls of Kashmir resemble that forgotten and hidden world of Kashmiri blades. |
| + | |
| + | “Sacre du Printemps”—when we composed it together with Stravinsky, we could not conceive |
| + | that Kashmir would greet us with its very setting. In Ghari, camping out by night, when |
| + | the vivid spring sky became afire with stars and the mountains were azured, we observed |
| + | rows of fires upon the mountains. The fires started into motion, separated and strangely |
| + | circled about. Then the mountain slopes became aglow with these fiery processions. And |
| + | in the village below, dark silhouettes began to whirl about brandishing resin torches on |
| + | long staffs. The flaming circles proclaimed the end of winter frosts. And the songs |
| + | proclaimed the Sacred Spring. This is the festival of the Ninth of March. |
| + | |
| + | “Bulbul,” the nightingale, sings on the apple tree. The cuckoo reckons out a long life. |
| + | White linens are spread on the meadow and a samovar is boiling. Red and yellow apples |
| + | and sweet cakes are passed around to those seated upon the spring grass. The eyes of the |
| + | violets and the white and yellow narcissus are woven into a many-hued carpet. At |
| + | evening, flocks of ducks and geese completely cover the tiny islands over the lakes. |
| + | Small bears steal out on the spring glades. But none fears them—unless the mother-bear |
| + | is with her cubs. . . . |
| + | |
| + | The river banks are sloping. A line of boatsmen steer their canopied boats. . . . Upon a |
| + | broad road the oxen drag themselves and the wheels grind along. Three-hundred-year-old |
| + | plantains and tall poplars guard the ways. And the teeth of the encountered travelers |
| + | gleam often in the smile of greeting. |
| + | |
| + | In the sheds lie the sleighs—veritable Moscow sleighs. In the yard, a crane screeches |
| + | above the well. The straw roof is overgrown with green moss. Along the road are gnarled |
| + | willow trees. And the greetings of the children are noisy. But where is this? Is it in |
| + | Schuya or Kolomna? It is in Srinagar, in the “City of the Sun.” |
| + | |
| + | Tiny, big-bellied pillars—small ornamental designs—steep little steps of stone—the |
| + | gilded roofs of the temple—creaking, ornamented window-shutters—rusty locks—low little |
| + | doors with their “curtesy”—carved balustrades—slanting tiles on stony floors—the odor of |
| + | old lacquer—small windows with diminutive panes. Where are we then? Is this the Kremlin |
| + | of Rostov? Are these the monasteries of Suzdal? Are they the temples of Yaroslavl? And |
| + | what of the endless flocks of daws? What of the naked branches behind the windows? This |
| + | is the chief palace of the Maharajah of Kashmir. How curious is everything which remains |
| + | from antiquity. But the modern additions are hideous. |
| + | |
| + | Upon the road are many Fords. In the hotel dining room one sees the faces of Americans. |
| + | In the jewelry shop, side-by-side, hang two paintings—one of the view of Delhi, the |
| + | other the view of the Moscow Kremlin. Among the crystals into which one gazes for |
| + | destiny; among the sapphires of Kashmir and the Tibetan turquoises, are shimmering green |
| + | Chinese jadaites—and like a garden, many-colored are the borders of the embroidered |
| + | kaftans. Like precious shawls the rooms of the museum are strewn with minute |
| + | Iran-designs and “Gandhara,” belabored by destiny, unifies the cleft branches of West |
| + | and East. |
| + | |
| + | In the styles of the temples and mosques; in the angular carved dragons; in the |
| + | tent-like, sloping hexagonal tower, is seen an unexpected combination of the old wooden |
| + | churches of Norway and the Chinese pagodas. Out of one well is drawn the Romanesque |
| + | Chimera, the animal ornaments of Altai and the tiny animals of Chinese Turkestan and |
| + | China. The Siberian paths of the nations have carried afar the same meaning of |
| + | adornment. |
| + | |
| + | The fort of Akbar stands firmly planted. But after you have climbed the steepnesses and |
| + | flights, you may perceive that the old bricks and the clay-beaten cement barely hold |
| + | together. The arches are ready to give way. |
| + | |
| + | Nishad, the garden of Akbar, occupies the site from the lake to the hill—a high place. |
| + | The structures are modest and upon the corners are the little towers so beloved by him. |
| + | They are characterized by simplicity and brightness. |
| + | |
| + | Shalimar—the garden of Jehangir—is also in character with its possessor, standing “for |
| + | itself.” There is less of outward show, but more of luxury—of that luxury which brought |
| + | the descendants of the Moguls to poverty. The last Mogul, in Delhi, secretly sold |
| + | furniture out of the palace and destroyed the valuable facings of the walls of Shah |
| + | Jehan and Aurungzeb. Thus ended the great dynasty. |
| + | |
| + | The weaver of Kashmir accompanied the making of each of his designs with a special |
| + | chant. Such a searching for rhythm reminds us of the great harmony of labor. |
| + | |
| + | No song relates why the mountain “Throne of Solomon” bears this name. This is a place of |
| + | such antiquity. Janaka, son of Asoka, had already dedicated one of the first Buddhist |
| + | temples here. Seven centuries later the temple was rebuilt and consecrated to Mahadeva. |
| + | . . . But whence comes the name of Solomon? The mountain received the name of Solomon |
| + | from a legend that Solomon, desiring a respite from the conventions of a sovereign’s |
| + | life and from the burdens of his court, transported himself upon a flying carpet to this |
| + | mountain with his favorite wife. Here, again, we come upon the mention of that “flying |
| + | apparatus” possessed by Solomon. A similar mountain is in Turkestan and in Persia. |
| + | |
| + | It is not alone the mountain “Throne of Solomon” which transports the consciousness into |
| + | biblical spheres. In the valley of Sindh the prophet Elijah is reverenced in a special |
| + | manner. Most stirring are the legends; how the prophet sitting in his cave saves |
| + | fishermen and travelers. Under various aspects, at times benevolent, at times stormy, |
| + | the prophet appears to defend the works of justice and piety. Mohammedans and Hindus, |
| + | divided by many differences, equally reverence the prophet Elijah. |
| + | |
| + | Purple iris will always recall Moslem cemeteries. They are covered with these flowers. |
| + | But there is also joy. The lilacs have blossomed, lilies of the valley are nodding and |
| + | the wild cherry tree glistens. |
| + | |
| + | After the “miniature design” of modern Kashmir, the eye rests before the ruins of |
| + | Martand and Avantipur. Here, also, the ninth and tenth centuries have flowered. Here the |
| + | solemn fantasy of the Asiatic cradle of the Romanesque merges with the joyous cult of |
| + | Vishnu. One feels also that here, against the background of the sapphire foothills of |
| + | the Himalayas, have stood mighty structures. They are but partly revealed. The sloping, |
| + | massed hillocks conceal entire palaces and cities. The spectacle of the might of Asia is |
| + | not yet revealed. Gleams of it only may be noted upon its fragmentary pages. Loving |
| + | hands will complete the beautiful realization. |
| + | |
| + | “Hail to Thee, Hakaura, our Horus, God of Existence, Defender of the Land, bridling the |
| + | desert by the serpent of His Uraeus, dispatching the arrow without the aid of the bow, |
| + | as does the Goddess Sekhmet. The king’s word would turn the Asians to flight.” So speaks |
| + | the hymn in honor of Senusert the Third. Two phrases have a special meaning: “Shooting |
| + | the arrow without a bow”—action at a distance. “Bridler of the desert by the serpent of |
| + | His Uranus”—reminds one of the most ancient cult of Asia—the wife and serpent. The |
| + | snakelike capitals of the pillars of Asia and of the Mayans speak of the same cult of |
| + | the wise wife. The old plaque found in Kashmir tells the same tale. In the middle sits |
| + | the king of serpents with the magic flower in his hand. The king is endowed with two |
| + | pairs of hands, dark and light, because wisdom has a complete armor. Before the king is |
| + | a woman with a veiled head, and to her the king entrusts wisdom. As the background to |
| + | this entire group is a multitude of snakes which have risen and united their heads. And |
| + | around this central image is a procession of individual figures of rulers each wearing |
| + | around his neck the image of the serpent. This sign of wisdom forces the humanlike and |
| + | animal-like djins to serve and help the owners of the ancient sign. Into a long trumpet |
| + | far-off the djins transmit messages. Djins bring flowers for the adornment of life. |
| + | Djins, in the guise of animals, transport themselves through the air. They bring caskets |
| + | with gems. They are present in the guise of sentinels. So is preserved the ancient |
| + | symbol of wisdom. |
| + | |
| + | “Gulidjan-Marda”—“Illo-Aladin-Shabasha”—“Illaila-Suleiman”—thus the rowers call to each |
| + | other. Oars with corded blades cut the yellow waters. |
| + | |
| + | Modern Srinagar is not more than one hundred and fifty to two hundred years old. Of the |
| + | ancient “City of the Sun” nothing remains. The old mosque remains only as a shell. In |
| + | the ugly rivets of the “wharf” are seen traces of the reliefs of the excellent stones of |
| + | the ninth and eleventh centuries. There are separate fragments; nothing binds them with |
| + | the dirty small houses of the present day. |
| + | |
| + | The old bridges must soon crumble. Who originated the canals of Kashmir? Who lined the |
| + | roads with so many poplar hedges? Was this not done by some of the nomads from Central |
| + | Asia, where winter necessitates the marking of the paths, and where canals are needed |
| + | for irrigating the sands? Where did theseshikara—the light, gondola-like |
| + | boats—originate? |
| + | |
| + | Along the even bank one travels at the end of the tow-rope. And the yellow banks remind |
| + | one of the Volga or the Mississippi. The river Jhelum is the nerve of Kashmir. |
| + | |
| + | Vular is the largest lake, the most beautiful and the most stormy. For two nights our |
| + | boat was dangerously driven against the clay bank. We should still have remained there, |
| + | still be working there, were it not that the “ark” might have cracked. On this lake |
| + | everything is so attractive. Toward the west is Pir-Panzal, glimmering with its snows. |
| + | To the north and east are the massive mountains. To the south stretch the distances of |
| + | Srinagar. Before sunset an astonishing Valhalla rises up over Pir-Panzal, and in the |
| + | morning the eastern mountains are crystal blue. Upon the sandbanks flocks are herding |
| + | and each horse is visible upon the far-off bank, so unusually transparent is the air. |
| + | Near the eastern bank is seen a small island on which stand the ruins of a temple, and |
| + | often the fakirs and the sadhus in meditation are seated there. The world of religion is |
| + | less apparent in Kashmir. |
| + | |
| + | The details of the ruined temple on the island could be transported into any Romanesque |
| + | cathedral, for the Goths wandered far, and everywhere sowed the seeds of their style. |
| + | The adornment of the women’s caps recalls the |
| + | Gothic fibula save that instead of red enamel we see |
| + | red glass inlaid in copper. |
| + | |
| + | Around the boat soar lovely little swallows. On deck, the hoopoes strut about. Above the |
| + | fields the song of the skylark resounds. In the center of the village is a cemetery—a |
| + | hillock strewn with stones, like our |
| + | northern zjalnik. Upon the hillock is a chapel with |
| + | a green, tent-like roof. Venerable, scrawny plantains are standing guard over the |
| + | quietude. Near the villages are the remains of temples and “town-sites” in ruins—sandy |
| + | mounds with their sand-strewn antiquity. Toward evening the rowers commence their |
| + | drawling songs—“like the burlaks.” And packs of dogs |
| + | pierce the air with their howls. From the far distant North to the South one finds the |
| + | same structure of life. It is amazing! |
| + | |
| + | On the northeast of Lake Vular the mountains converge. In this pass there is a kind of |
| + | compelling power. The village, Bandapur, has quite an individual character, and when you |
| + | reach the post office you can understand the importance of the site. Here, to the |
| + | mountains, turns the road to Gilgit. You pass up to the first ascent and watch the |
| + | windings of the rising path. Upon the peak of the very summit is the first night camp. |
| + | Then on, the path lies first along the very edge where the snow still gleams white as a |
| + | narrow strip, afterwards sinking far down into a new gateway. Gilgit and Chitral are |
| + | especially guarded. If the road toward Ladak is difficult, then Gilgit and Chitral are |
| + | positively forbidding. Violet and purple rocks; and snow peaks, beautifully blue. Each |
| + | turbaned rider attracts one’s attention; is he not perhaps from the North? Each pack of |
| + | loaded ponies draws one’s eye after them. A significant corner! |
| + | |
| + | The Russian words—sunduk, karaul, samovar, tchai, chaprak, sudi-sudi, kavardak, |
| + | kolpak —and many other words, resound strangely but distinctly in the |
| + | speech of Kashmir. The braided bark-shoes remind one of other northern paths. |
| + | |
| + | The boatman is preparing a Kashmiri dinner for us. Six cooks arrive. The table is strewn |
| + | with blue iris. Since morning, we have received nothing except for tea. Sobra, his |
| + | brother Ramsana, skillful Ibrahim and other unknown brothers and uncles are here—and |
| + | even perhaps the hundred-year-old grandfather himself sitting with |
| + | his hookah in the kitchen-boat. All are busying |
| + | themselves over some mystery. Finally, at seven in the evening the mysterious dinner |
| + | makes its appearance. Twenty-seven courses are served in turn and each has to be tasted. |
| + | The sum of the inventiveness of this sextet of cooks comprises: Almond soup, Namki |
| + | polaw, Mehtee, Tabak Maz, Kabab, Roogan Yosch, Dupiaz, Batha Kurma, Abgosh, Alubukhar |
| + | Kurma, Chana Kurma, Marzewangan Kurma, Subzee Kurma, Namki Kabab Akhtabi, Koofta, Koofta |
| + | Tikea, Dampokhta Kokarpootoo, Kandee Roogan Yosch, Metla polaw, Thula Shoom, Rewash, |
| + | Methazoont, Metha Thool, Deesee Alu, Plireenee, Thula Halwa—thus is termed this |
| + | apotheosis of mutton and spices. And how is it possible to tell them that just the |
| + | ingeniousness of the dinner is so foreign to us! |
| + | |
| + | Kashmiri singing. Seven men in white turbans, one red-headed, with |
| + | long sitara. Three |
| + | have saazes. Further on sits the most skilled one, |
| + | before two tablas. At the corner are two singers, |
| + | and in the center a woman singer, in blue shawl and silver bracelets and strings of |
| + | beads. They sing songs of Persia and Arabia; Urdu and Kashmiri songs. And, as in the |
| + | reliefs of Assyria, the woman raises her forefinger or her left palm or crosses her |
| + | hands upon her temples. Sometimes—like a “duckling”—she jumps up and softly runs around |
| + | the circle. The Persian song “Suram” is the song of farewell and eternal remembrance. |
| + | The “Shakhnaz,” the Arabian song: “The richest one will not carry his wealth with him |
| + | beyond the grave.” Or: “When Christ ascended—all servitors extolled him.” And the song |
| + | of Urdu runs: “Two friends—it matters not how distant—will think the same thoughts. The |
| + | world is naught—and all must depart from it.” “Kochur,” the Kashmiri song, says: “Thou |
| + | walkest upon the road but art not visible to me. Thou gavest me the wine of life and |
| + | walkest away from me. Everything depends on God.” “If I see but one man or woman, I |
| + | already behold the entire world.” “Kamach,” the Kashmiri song, runs: “They say their |
| + | praises of Christ in all manner of words. Better was He than sun and moon.” |
| + | |
| + | And thus, on a red carpet, eight Moslems, of their own accord, glorify Christ and |
| + | creation until the hour of midnight. Following them, all the boatmen move in time with |
| + | the white turbans and sway as they chant. And |
| + | the saazes drone like the whispers of the forest. |
| + | And our Confucian Chinese repeats over and over in |
| + | Tibetan yakpodu, meaning “good.” And then the |
| + | Victrola resounds with Rimsky-Korsakoff’s “Song of Lel,” sung by Chaliapin, and the |
| + | turbans of the Kashmiris nod understandingly. There is one consciousness! The program |
| + | finishes with the “Song of Akbar.” And the entire midnight has passed without the least |
| + | friction. And what has been mutually understood is accepted with a kindly smile. |
| + | |
| + | Can one change such a communion of understanding into the vulgarity of ugliness? |
| + | Possibly one can. We were shown the shameful letters which were sent to the natives by |
| + | foreigners—shameful questions of the flesh. Can one substitute for the smile the mawling |
| + | grimace? Of course it is not difficult. One can invoke a whole horror of ugliness. One |
| + | can destroy this feeling of universal good. One can depart with the impress of searing |
| + | banality. One can always go into the darkness of ignorance and prejudice. |
| + | |
| + | As in Sikhim, so in Kashmir, one is amazed by the spiritual understanding. One has |
| + | hardly enough time to crystallize one’s thoughts, when one’s companion has made his |
| + | complementary gesture. And how many fine thoughts one can sow by way of the intuition! |
| + | |
| + | Once again rhythmically the rowers call to each |
| + | other—“Amposch-pamposch”—“Dazgir-Kashmir”—“Shahan-Shah-Padi-Shah.” And the meaning of |
| + | these calls is “The land of roses,” “The temple,” “King of Kings,” “Lotos,” “Man,” and |
| + | “All is well.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | We live on the foothills of Pir-Panzal. The storms, continuous, blinding, last three |
| + | days in succession. The hailstones are the size of dove’s eggs. The stars are like |
| + | candles. And each week there are earthquakes. |
| + | |
| + | In Siberia, upon the steep hillocks are similar town-sites girdled by thundering |
| + | torrents. Cedar and pine groves austerely guard these dwellings and high above glimmer |
| + | the white caps of the mountains. Here are woodpeckers, turtle-doves, orioles, musk-deer |
| + | and mountain-goats. In just this same way, we live in the yellow, unpainted sturdy |
| + | house. If there is sun, all is fragrant with evergreen, but if there is storm ... For |
| + | three days it thundered and the glare of lightning blinded one cruelly during the night. |
| + | Rings of lightning! The gushing rains poured down, and hail suddenly blanched the green |
| + | hills. What a storm! |
| + | |
| + | The series “Banners of the East” unfolded: 1. Buddha the Conqueror before the spring of |
| + | life. 2. Moses the Leader upon the summit, surrounded by the glory of the heavens. 3. |
| + | Sergius the Builder, laboring with his own forces. 4. Watch on the Himalayas. 5. |
| + | Confucius the Just, the traveler in exile. 6. Yen-No-Guyo-Dja, Friend of the Travelers |
| + | (Japan). 7. Milarepa, the One Who Hearkened—at sunrise comprehending the voices of the |
| + | Devas. 8. Dorje the Daring, who stood facing Mahakala himself. 9. Sahara the Beneficent |
| + | Arrow, never slackening in its missions of benevolence. 10. Mohammed upon Mount Hira |
| + | (the message of the Archangel Gabriel). 11. Nagarjuna, Conqueror of the Serpent, |
| + | beholding upon the lake the vision of the Ruler of the Nagi. 12. Oirot the Messenger of |
| + | the White Burkhan, the legend of Altai. And those already in the Museum: 13. Mother of |
| + | the World. 14. Signs of Christ. 15. Lao-Tze. 16. Tsong-kha-pa. 17. Padma Sambhava. 18. |
| + | Chalice. 19. The Ancient Serpent. |
| + | |
| + | In Mongolia there is a custom of great antiquity. In moments of national disaster or |
| + | danger, the lamas would ascend the high mountain and with conjurations would scatter |
| + | white paper horses—the horse as a symbol of Buddha, of strength and happiness. And these |
| + | steeds of Valkyrie, the resplendent horses, would float out, whirling, and carrying help |
| + | to the unknown stricken ones. Procopius was wont to sit on the Dvina blessing the |
| + | unknown seafarers: and these lamas upon the mountain ridges of Asia have sent horses to |
| + | the far-off stricken ones. In this sending to the Unknown is seen the same concern for |
| + | the general happiness. Such customs of lamas are precious. This is not “sitting beneath |
| + | a tree,” nor requests flung into space; not the ornamental gestures of a ritual; but a |
| + | “command” for help to the far-off stricken ones—a heavenly voice demanding that human |
| + | ills be alleviated. |
| + | |
| + | Two other touching images must not be forgotten: Mani, the founder of so-called |
| + | Manicheism, in the third century was crucified upon the gates of the city in Persia for |
| + | his belief in the synthesis of teaching and for his idea of the Commune. The other one, |
| + | Guru Kambala, gave his head as a symbol of devotion and service—and Kambala and horses, |
| + | in their essence, both enter into the “Banners of the East.” |
| + | |
| + | Manicheism lived long. In Italy itself, Manicheans, persecuted, existed until the |
| + | fourteenth century. Perhaps it is from them that Benozzo Gozzoli adopted the themes of |
| + | the Pisan frescoes, of the four encounters of the Prince Siddhartha-Buddha, which |
| + | enlightened his consciousness. Instead of the Hindu Ruler, there is a cavalcade of |
| + | Italian signori. And in certain Eastern conceptions, as if somewhere |
| + | from the depths of understanding, one perceives the characteristic fantasy of Gozzoli |
| + | with his sumptuous ornate rocks and his pine trees; with his gilded horse-blankets and |
| + | staffs bearing vivid banners. Tamed “Pardus” of the East sit behind the saddles, and the |
| + | turban gracefully surrounds the helmet, as upon the coat-of-arms (insignia) of |
| + | crusaders. What is it? The echoes of crusades, about which even Herri met de Bles |
| + | dreamt? Or has the more ancient organization of synthesis, of Mani believers, penetrated |
| + | and linked the consciousness of East and West. How many unexplained manifestations! How |
| + | many names slandered! How many truly enlightened researches are buried into one heap |
| + | with the cast-off refuse. Future studies and researches must be undertaken in an |
| + | unprejudiced spirit with an eye only to truth and justice. |
| + | |
| + | Another detail linking East and West. Do you remember the Turfan Mother of the World, |
| + | with the child? Perhaps Nestorians or Manicheans left this image in the center of Asia. |
| + | Or more correctly, this image has remained, transmitted from times still more remote. |
| + | Kali, or Kwan Yin—who knows how many ages old they are? Behind them is concealed the |
| + | wife and the serpent. The antiquity of the symbol is already incalculable. Not toward |
| + | the page of the Bible, not toward the symbols of the Kabala, does this image point. |
| + | Continents no longer existing have molded the beauty of the Mother of the World—this |
| + | light-bearing essence. Only ignorance insists on the lack of knowledge of antiquity. |
| + | |
| + | You may wonder how we fare without theaters. But we have drama here each day—only |
| + | without a stage, in actual life. Perhaps a Chinese theater—with legends about unheard-of |
| + | peoples; perhaps the threatening monologue of the policeman; perhaps the ill-omened |
| + | ballet of the Kashmiri merchants—Schaitans; perhaps the drama of a |
| + | boat beaten by the waves; perhaps the procession of horses or the peaceful evening |
| + | songs, or a furioso of hail and earthquake. Nor does |
| + | one have to hang frayed curtains, nor must one make up one’s face, when the whole world |
| + | participates in the mystery of evolution; when renewed understanding triumphantly enters |
| + | into life, in new creations of universal beauty. |
| + | |
| + | In Mongolia the march was proclaimed by the sending of an arrow to the Prince-noyon. And |
| + | the arrow which came flying to Feodor-Tyron also came from the East. |
| + | |
| + | George rides upon a horse from Yarkand; and the Chinese and I on horses from Khotan. My |
| + | horse has a star; the Yarkand horse bears a Chinese brand, the cross within a square—a |
| + | sign of the coat of arms of Tian. |
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| /dev/null .. en/books/1/24.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,488 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 24 |
| + | |
| + | Indra, Agni and Surya—air, fire and the sun! The Hindu Trimurti-Trinity remains behind. |
| + | The ancient Sarasvati of the Vedas, the great Ind, leads us to its snowy sources. If the |
| + | Ganges is as a greeting—the seat, contemplation—then the Ind suggests motion, |
| + | unswervingness, impetuosity. And how alluring and unfailing have been the ways of the |
| + | movement of nations through the Hindu Kush and Pamir! |
| + | |
| + | Again a caravan. Again, days and dates are readily forgotten. The character of the day |
| + | becomes more important than its number or name. Like the Egyptians who named the years |
| + | according to their qualities—“the year of battle,” or “the year of lean crops”—one marks |
| + | only the quality of the days. Perhaps, the day of the horse—when the mounts fell through |
| + | the snowy bridge; the night of a wolf—when the packs stealthily approached the camps; |
| + | the dawn of the eagle—when the golden eagle with a whir of wings sped upon the tent; the |
| + | sunset of the castle—when as though sprung from the fiery copper peak, the vision of a |
| + | castle arose unexpectedly. In place of a turban, from out the stone there rose before us |
| + | the shaggy cap—the way toward the land of Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | The qualities of Buddha are as follows: Sakya Muni—the wise one of the clan of Sakya; |
| + | Sakyasinha—Sakya the lion; Bhagavat—the Blessed; Saddha—the Teacher; Jina—the Conqueror. |
| + | |
| + | Thus spoke Buddha to the zealots and hypocrites: “Your rules are degraded and |
| + | ridiculous. One among you walks naked; another will not begin to eat from a pitcher or |
| + | platter, or refuses to sit at the table between two companions or two dishes. Another |
| + | will not accept alms from the house where a pregnant woman lives or where he encounters |
| + | a dog. Some will not eat from two vessels and at the seventh gulp refrain from eating. |
| + | One will not sit upon a bench or mat. One lies naked upon thorned plants or upon cow’s |
| + | dung. |
| + | |
| + | What do you expect, voluntary workers, for your ‘hard’ labors? You await alms and |
| + | respect from the laity—and when you achieve this reward, you become deeply wedded to the |
| + | comforts of the temporary life and do not desire to renounce them. When you see visitors |
| + | approaching from a distance you immediately assume the appearance of having been |
| + | discovered in profound meditation. When you are offered coarser victuals you hand them |
| + | on to others, keeping for yourself all the dainty morsels. You succumb to vices and |
| + | passion; you assume the mask of modesty. Not such, is the true asceticism.” |
| + | |
| + | It took Buddha six years to convert Kashyapa. He even lit the fires of altars which were |
| + | strange to him before the stubbornness of the set convictions of Kashyapa could be |
| + | broken, and Buddha could add to new teaching the “old authority.” For whenever beauty, |
| + | scientific reason and vital enlightenment are invoked, the “old fortresses” are |
| + | especially invulnerable. One must realize all the difficulties of Buddha in breaking |
| + | down prejudices, if it took six years for one man to absorb the beautiful simplicity |
| + | before he could extinguish the useless fire of unnecessary superstitious offerings. |
| + | |
| + | His was the task to live for eighty years constantly teaching; to see how under one’s |
| + | very eyes the teaching was perverted; to realize how many rulers and priests accepted |
| + | the teachings only out of self-interested motive; to foresee the shells of a new |
| + | conventionality already prepared. ... . |
| + | |
| + | He who contained within himself the understanding of the uselessness of power, |
| + | exclaimed: “Go, oh beggars, carry salvation and benevolence to the people.” In the one |
| + | word, “beggars,” is contained his complete gospel. The time has come when from out the |
| + | gilding of the idol there stands forth the image of Buddha, the great teacher, who |
| + | preaches against killing, against intoxication and excesses. This powerful image |
| + | appears, summoning men to a revaluation of values, to labor and to achievement. |
| + | |
| + | Many times the teaching of Buddha was purified, but it was again quickly covered with |
| + | the soot of prejudices. Its vitality was disfigured into a heap of treatises and of |
| + | metaphysical nomenclature. Why, then, be astonished if there still remain erect the |
| + | walls of the monastery of Lamayuru, stronghold of the faith of Bon-po with its Shaman |
| + | invocations, founded long before the birth of Buddha? |
| + | |
| + | Nevertheless this brought about a healthy realization: they became accustomed to purify |
| + | the teachings. Of course it was not the heralded synods in Rajagriha, Vaisali and Patna |
| + | which brought back the teachings to their original simplicity of the community. But |
| + | strong-spirited individual teachers sincerely tried to reveal again the beautiful image |
| + | of the teaching: Atisha, defeating convention, wrestled with the somber survival of the |
| + | sorcery of Bon-po. Ashvagosha, the creator of the entire Mahayana of the north, applied |
| + | the form of dramatic productions for the sake of conviction and visualization. The bold |
| + | Nagarjuna reaped wisdom on Lake Yum Tso from his discourses with Nagi, “King of |
| + | Serpents.” The Tibetan Orpheus, Milarepa, surrounded by animals, hearkened to the |
| + | prophetic voices of the mountains. Padma Sambhava conquered the forces of |
| + | nature—powerful figure, distorted by the conventions of the Red Caps. The clear and |
| + | active Tsong-kha-pa was beloved of the entire north as founder of the Yellow Caps. And |
| + | many others—solitary figures—who understood the predicted evolution and purged the |
| + | gospel of Buddha from the dust of conventional forms. Their works, again, were covered |
| + | by the musty layer of mechanical ritual. The conventional mind of the “man of everyday,” |
| + | though he accepted the teaching of Buddha, tried to clothe it with his own prejudiced |
| + | understanding. |
| + | |
| + | Neither from Alara Kalama, or from Uddaka Ramaputta could Buddha find a saving decision. |
| + | The reformer, who strove toward reality, could not be satisfied by the |
| + | misinterpretations of the Rig-Veda. Buddha walked far off to the secret places of the |
| + | mountains. The legends bring the bold searcher even to Altai—and the legend of the White |
| + | Burkhan is being preserved upon Altai in all its reality. Near the mysterious Uruvela, |
| + | Buddha approaches the simplest expression of all his attainments. And on the shores of |
| + | Naranjana he is illumined by the decision to pronounce the words concerning general |
| + | welfare: of the renunciation of the personal, of the significance of labor for the |
| + | general well-being, and of the meaning of knowledge. To establish a scientific approach |
| + | to religion was a true attainment. To expose the self-interested priests and Brahmins |
| + | was the summit of fearlessness. To reveal the true levers of hidden human forces was |
| + | difficult beyond expression. Of unusual beauty is the coming of the King in the image of |
| + | a mighty mendicant! |
| + | |
| + | In the conception of the evolution of humanity, the figure of Buddha, the Enlightened |
| + | One, takes an unquestionably beautiful place. |
| + | |
| + | Buddha had to hear bodily the tremor of destruction of his native city, Kapilavastu. |
| + | Confucius had to tread the path of exile from place to place. And his cart in which he |
| + | wandered is placed in a Temple together with his works and musical instruments. It is |
| + | not to be wondered at, because at the base of the teachings of Confucius lies the same |
| + | idea of cooperation. Let us remember his teachings: “When the hearts of mortals shall be |
| + | kindled by love, then the whole world will be as one family. All men will in themselves |
| + | be one man, and all things, by virtue of the astonishing mutual order and union, will |
| + | appear as one and the same element.” . . . “Hypocrisy is the most hateful vice.” . . . |
| + | “He who only covers himself by the semblance of virtue resembles an evil-doer who in the |
| + | daytime appears as an honest man and at night busies himself with stealing the goods of |
| + | his neighbor.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “Beware of those who make themselves the exponents of virtue rather than its followers. |
| + | Be not deceived by their scientific arguments. For although they may be understood as |
| + | the expression of the soul’s convictions, they are nevertheless only the fruits of a |
| + | corrupt mind and the intellectually corroded impulses of the heart. Those who discourse |
| + | with apparent sensitiveness on humility, on general well-being, are not always examples |
| + | of those virtues.” . . |
| + | |
| + | “Temperance, simplicity in attire, propriety, the pursuit of science and art, aversion |
| + | to flatterers, love of the humble, lack of greed, prudence, steadfastness, |
| + | righteousness, goodness, are the prescribed virtues.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “Acquire science and the fine arts. Apply the precepts of wisdom.” . . . “The avaricious |
| + | one, himself being restless, becomes for others a terrifying and disgusting object. Let |
| + | prudence dictate thy actions.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “To discriminate between men, whether they be good or evil, there is no better way than |
| + | to look into the pupil of the eye; because the pupil of the eye cannot conceal the vice |
| + | which is hidden in the heart.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “Do not let the humble ones feel your high position nor display to your equals the |
| + | preeminence of your merits.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “There is nothing which cannot be obtained by persistence. Each day I can bring a basket |
| + | of earth, and if I persist in it, finally I shall raise up a mountain.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “Man must become the coworker of heaven and earth.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “All beings nurture each other. The laws of the movements of constellations are carried |
| + | out simultaneously without impeding each other.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “The action of heaven and earth is divided into endless currents, influencing each being |
| + | individually; their general action effects great transformations—therein is the |
| + | greatness of heaven and earth.” |
| + | |
| + | “Conscientiousness, humaneness and valor are three universal qualities; but in order to |
| + | apply them, sincerity is needed.” |
| + | |
| + | “The man who has not determined his destination cannot be considered a great man.” |
| + | |
| + | “Is there not a panacea for all that exists? Is this not love to humanity? Do not do |
| + | unto another what you do not wish for yourself.” |
| + | |
| + | “If a man can govern himself, what difficulty could he encounter in governing a state?” |
| + | |
| + | “A sage is firm but not stubborn.” . . . “Be slow in words and quick in action.” |
| + | |
| + | “A wise one expects all from himself; the mediocre one, all from others ” |
| + | |
| + | “I love the glow of virtue which does not proclaim itself in loud words and pompous |
| + | movements. Noise and proclamations are secondary things in the reformation of peoples.” |
| + | |
| + | “The ignorant one who prides himself on his knowledge, the nonentity, the one desiring |
| + | freedom excessively, men who return to the ancient customs, all are subject to |
| + | unavoidable misfortunes.” |
| + | |
| + | “An archer provides an example for a sage. When he does not reach the center of the |
| + | target he searches for the cause within himself.” |
| + | |
| + | Proclaiming the general well-being, Confucius was compelled to have his cart of flight |
| + | ever at hand…. |
| + | |
| + | Our old Chinese speaks in whispers about Confucius. These old thoughts seem like the |
| + | footprints of ancient Chinese travelers, who have given us so much useful information |
| + | about India and all Central Asia. |
| + | |
| + | If behind the present idol of Buddha it is difficult to perceive the lofty image of |
| + | Buddha the Teacher, then it is still more unexpected to hear in Tibetan mountains |
| + | beautiful words about Jesus. Yet Buddhists preserve the teachings of Jesus, and lamas |
| + | pay reverence to Jesus who passed and taught here. |
| + | |
| + | There have been distinct glimpses about a second visit of Christ to Egypt. But why is it |
| + | incredible that after that, he could have been in India? Whoever doubts too completely |
| + | that such legends about the Christ life exist in Asia, probably does not realize what an |
| + | immense influence the Nestorians have had in all parts of Asia and how many so-called |
| + | Apocryphal legends they spread in the most ancient times. And then, how much truth is |
| + | veiled in the so-called Apocryphal legends! |
| + | |
| + | Many remember the lines from the book of Notovitch, but it is still more wonderful to |
| + | discover, on this site, in several variants, the same version of the legend of Issa. The |
| + | local people know nothing of any published book but they know the legend and with deep |
| + | reverence they speak of Issa. One might wonder what relation Moslems, Hindus or |
| + | Buddhists have with Issa. But it is still more significant to see how vital are great |
| + | ideas and how they penetrate even the most remote places. Never may one discover the |
| + | source of such legends. But even if they originated from ancient Nestorian Apocrypha, at |
| + | present it is instructive to see the widespread and deep consideration paid to the |
| + | subject. It is significant to hear a local inhabitant, a Hindu, relate how Issa preached |
| + | beside a small pool near the bazaar under a great tree, which now no longer exists. In |
| + | such purely physical indications you may see how seriously this subject is regarded. |
| + | |
| + | Legends say that Jesus was not killed by the Jewish people but by representatives of the |
| + | Roman government. The empire and the wealthy killed the Great Teacher who carried light |
| + | to the working and poor ones. The path of attainment of light! |
| + | |
| + | Let us hearken to the way in which they speak of Jesus in Asia. In the legends which |
| + | have the estimated antiquity of many centuries, it is related that Issa (Jesus) secretly |
| + | left his parents and together with the merchants of Jerusalem turned toward the Indus to |
| + | become perfected in the highest Teaching. |
| + | |
| + | It is related that, “He passed his time in several ancient cities of India such as |
| + | Benares. All loved him because Issa dwelt in peace with Vaishas and Shudras whom he |
| + | instructed and helped. |
| + | |
| + | “But the Brahmins and Kshatriyas told him that Brahma forbade those to approach who were |
| + | created out of his womb and feet. The Vaishas were allowed to listen to the Vedas only |
| + | on holidays and the Shudras were forbidden not only to be present at the reading of the |
| + | Vedas, but could not even look at them. |
| + | |
| + | “Issa said that man had filled the temples with his abominations. In order to pay homage |
| + | to metals and stones, man sacrificed his fellows in whom dwells a spark of the Supreme |
| + | Spirit. Man demeans those who labor by the sweat of their brows, in order to gain the |
| + | good will of the sluggard who sits at the lavishly set board. But they who deprive their |
| + | brothers of the common blessing shall be themselves stripped of it. |
| + | |
| + | “Vaishas and Shudras were struck with astonishment and asked what they could perform. |
| + | Issa bade them ‘Worship not the idols. Do not consider yourself first. Do not humiliate |
| + | your neighbor. Help the poor. Sustain the feeble. Do evil to no one. Do not covet that |
| + | which you do not possess and which is possessed by others.’ |
| + | |
| + | “Many, learning of such words, decided to kill Issa. But Issa, forewarned, departed from |
| + | this place by night. |
| + | |
| + | “Afterward, Issa went into Nepal and into the Himalaya mountains.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | “ ‘Well, perform for us a miracle,’ demanded the servitors of the Temple. Then Issa |
| + | replied to them: ‘Miracles made their appearance from the very day when the world was |
| + | created. He who cannot behold them is deprived of the greatest gift of life. But woe to |
| + | you, enemies of men, woe unto you, if you await that He should attest his power by |
| + | miracle.’” |
| + | |
| + | “Issa taught that men should not strive to behold the Eternal Spirit with one’s own eyes |
| + | but to feel it with the heart, and to become a pure and worthy soul.” . . . “Not only |
| + | shall you not make human offerings, but you must not slaughter animals, because all is |
| + | given for the use of man. Do not steal the goods of others, because that would be |
| + | usurpation from your near one. Do not cheat, that you may in turn not be cheated.” Issa |
| + | said: “Beware, ye, who divert men from the true path and who fill the people with |
| + | superstitions and prejudices, who blind the vision of the seeing ones, and who preach |
| + | subservience to material things.” |
| + | |
| + | Upon his return to the land of Israel, Issa taught: “Do not be subject to despair; do |
| + | not desert your homes; do not defile the nobility of your feelings; be imbued with hope |
| + | and with patience. Raise up the fallen and sustain the hungry; succor the ailing in |
| + | order that you be entirely pure and just upon that last day which I am preparing for |
| + | you. If you would perform deeds of benevolence and love, perform them with a generous |
| + | heart. And let there not be in these deeds the hope of gain or any calculations of |
| + | profit.” |
| + | |
| + | The legends continue thus: “Then Pilate, ruler of Jerusalem, gave orders to lay hands |
| + | upon the preacher Issa and to deliver him to the judges, without however, arousing the |
| + | displeasure of the people.” |
| + | |
| + | “But Issa taught: ‘Do not seek straight paths in darkness, possessed by fear. But gather |
| + | force and support each other. He who supports his neighbor strengthens himself. |
| + | |
| + | “ ‘I tried to revive the laws of Moses in the hearts of the people. And I say unto you |
| + | that you do not understand their true meaning because they do not teach revenge but |
| + | forgiveness. But the meaning of these laws is distorted.’ ” |
| + | |
| + | “Then the ruler sent to Issa his disguised servants that they should watch his actions |
| + | and report to him about his words to the people.” |
| + | |
| + | “ ‘Thou just man,’ said the disguised servant of the ruler of Jerusalem approaching |
| + | Issa, ‘Teach us, should we fulfill the will of Caesar or await the approaching |
| + | deliverance?’ |
| + | |
| + | “But Issa, recognizing the disguised servants, said, ‘I did not foretell unto you that |
| + | you would be delivered from Cæsar; but I said that the soul which was immersed in sin |
| + | would be delivered from sin.’ ” |
| + | |
| + | “At this time, an old woman approached the crowd, but was pushed back. Then Issa said, |
| + | ‘Reverence Woman, mother of the universe; in her lies the truth of creation. She is the |
| + | foundation of all that is good and beautiful. She is the source of life and death. Upon |
| + | her depends the existence of man, because she is the sustenance of his labors. She gives |
| + | birth to you in travail, she watches over your growth. Bless her. Honor her. Defend her. |
| + | Love your wives and honor them, because tomorrow they shall be mothers, and |
| + | later—progenitors of a whole race. Their love ennobles man, soothes the embittered heart |
| + | and tames the beast. Wife and mother—they are the adornments of the universe.’ |
| + | |
| + | “ ‘As light divides itself from darkness, so does woman possess the gift to divide in |
| + | man good intent from the thought of evil. Your best thoughts must belong to woman. |
| + | Gather from them your moral strength, which you must possess to sustain your near ones. |
| + | Do not humiliate her, for therein you will humiliate yourselves. And all which you will |
| + | do to mother, to wife, to widow or to another woman in sorrow—that shall you also do for |
| + | the Spirit.’ |
| + | |
| + | “So taught Issa; but the ruler Pilate ordered one of his servants to make accusation |
| + | against him. |
| + | |
| + | “Said Issa: ‘Not far hence is the time when by the Highest Will the people will become |
| + | purified and united into one family.’ |
| + | |
| + | “And then turning to the ruler, he said ‘Why demean thy dignity and teach thy |
| + | subordinates to live in deceit when even without this thou couldst also have had the |
| + | means of accusing an innocent one?’ ” |
| + | |
| + | Thus the legends of Asia weave such an image of Jesus, so ennobled and near to all |
| + | nations. And Asia preserves in its mountains such legends. And it is not astonishing |
| + | that the teachings of Jesus and Buddha are leading all nations into one family. But |
| + | beautiful it is, that the light-giving idea of unity is expressed so clearly. And who |
| + | shall be opposed to this idea? Who will lessen the simplest and most beautiful decision |
| + | of life? And the earthly Unity is so easily and scientifically merging into the great |
| + | Unity of all worlds. The commandments of Jesus and of Buddha lie upon one shelf. And the |
| + | signs of ancient Sanskrit and of Pali unite all aspirations. |
| + | |
| + | Another version also speaks about the life of Jesus in Tibet: “Near Lhasa was a temple |
| + | of teaching with a wealth of manuscripts. Jesus was to acquaint himself with them. |
| + | Meng-ste, a great sage of all the East, was in this temple.” |
| + | |
| + | “Finally Jesus reached a mountain pass and in the chief city of Ladak, Leh, he was |
| + | joyously accepted by monks and people of the lower class.” “And Jesus taught in the |
| + | monasteries and in the bazaars (the market place); wherever the simple people |
| + | gathered—there he taught.” |
| + | |
| + | “Not far from this place lived a woman whose son had died and she brought him to Jesus. |
| + | And in the presence of a multitude, Jesus laid his hand on the child, and the child rose |
| + | healed. And many brought their children and Jesus laid his hands upon them, healing |
| + | them.” |
| + | |
| + | “Among the Ladakis, Jesus passed many days, teaching them. And they loved him and when |
| + | the time of his departure came they sorrowed as children.” |
| + | |
| + | Said Jesus of skilled singers: “Whence is their talent and their power? For in one short |
| + | life they could not possibly accumulate a quality of voice and a knowledge of the laws |
| + | of harmonies. Are these miracles? No, because all things take place as a result of |
| + | natural laws. Many thousands of years ago these people already molded their harmonies |
| + | and their qualities. And they come again to learn still more from varied |
| + | manifestations.” |
| + | |
| + | Still many other legends and manuscripts relate of Issa in Asia. |
| + | |
| + | After the vital conception of general well-being indicated by Jesus and preserved by |
| + | Buddhists, one cannot but recall the words of Eusebius in his book, “Life of |
| + | Constantine”: “In order to attach to Christianity greater attraction in the eyes of the |
| + | nobility the priests adopted the outer garments and adornments which were used in pagan |
| + | cults.” Every one who knows the cult of Mithra can appreciate the justice of this |
| + | remark. A devout neo-Platonist and worshiper of the ancient philosophy, Clement of |
| + | Alexandria, taught Christian bishops. |
| + | |
| + | Ignorance! Russian princes perished in the tents of Khans for their refusal to reverence |
| + | the image of Buddha—yet at the same time the monasteries of Tibet were already |
| + | preserving the wonderful lines about Jesus. Cyril of Alexandria brought about the |
| + | destruction of the woman ascetic Hypatia, but it was to her own pupil, Cinesius, that |
| + | the bishopric of Ptolemy was offered even before he accepted baptism. |
| + | |
| + | Superstition! Jerome advised the newly converted Christians to trample upon the body of |
| + | their pagan mother. |
| + | |
| + | Cynicism! Pope Leo X exclaimed, “How useful to us is this allegory of Christ!” |
| + | |
| + | It should not be forgotten that Origen, who knew the meaning of the ancient mysteries |
| + | and understood the true significance of the teaching of Jesus, even he could speak in |
| + | the words of “The Acts”: “And all the believers were together and held everything |
| + | inunited possession. And the estates which were sold and all |
| + | properties were distributed to each according to his need. And each day, dwelling |
| + | unitedly and breaking bread in their homes, they partook of their food with joy and |
| + | simplicity of the heart.” |
| + | |
| + | Origen understood why this general well-being was important and saw profoundly into the |
| + | truth. Because of this, the Church, sometimes extremely liberal in bestowing the title |
| + | of saint, refused him this title; but even enemies did not refuse to call Origen a |
| + | teacher. For he approached the teaching scientifically and did not fear to speak of what |
| + | was evident to him. |
| + | |
| + | Of what was Origen accused? “Lives of the Saints” thus speaks of him: “Origen, the |
| + | wonder of his age by reason of the prodigiousness of his mind and the profundity of his |
| + | erudition, was condemned for heresy in two Alexandrian Councils and, after his death, in |
| + | the Council of Constantinople. Origen did not think correctly about many truths of the |
| + | Christian Church. Expounding the non-gentile teachings of the pre-existence of the soul, |
| + | he did not reflect properly upon Christ, believing that a certain number of spiritual |
| + | beings of equal worth were created, of whom one strove with such flaming love that he |
| + | became united with the Highest Word and became its bearer upon earth. Holding to the |
| + | heretical belief in the incarnation of the God-Word and the creation of the world, |
| + | Origen did not rightly comprehend the death of Christ by crucifixion, representing it as |
| + | something which had its spiritual counterpart in a spiritual world. He attributed too |
| + | much to the acts of natural forces with which our nature is gifted. . . .”—Admirable |
| + | were the councils which could speak against the infinite cosmic meaning of matter! |
| + | |
| + | Sergius, Builder of Communities, forebade his coworkers to accept alms. Food and other |
| + | articles might be accepted only in exchange for labor. Hungering, himself, he offered |
| + | his labor. The building up of communities and enlightenment alone preoccupied this |
| + | remarkable man. His refusal of the office of Metropolite and his refusal to wear |
| + | precious metals appear in his life as natural acts, without any pose. His life was one |
| + | of indefatigable labor; he chose young, completely unknown coworkers; he preached |
| + | simplicity, as above, so below. The refusal of personal property was not because of any |
| + | command, but because of his realization of the harm of this idea. In the ranks of |
| + | builders of communities, Sergius retains a great place. |
| + | |
| + | They are not so numerous—these builders of a life which responds in its inner meaning to |
| + | the future evolution. And we should carefully record these names of future illumination, |
| + | extending their lists until our day. |
| + | |
| + | One of the great Mahatmas of India says: |
| + | |
| + | “You were told that our knowledge was limited to this solar |
| + | system: ergo, as philosophers who desired to remain |
| + | worthy of the name, we could not either deny or affirm the existence of what you termed |
| + | a supreme, omnipotent, intelligent Being of some sort beyond the limits of that solar |
| + | system. But if such an existence is not absolutely impossible, yet, unless the |
| + | uniformity of Nature’s laws breaks at those limits we maintain that it is highly |
| + | improbable. Nevertheless, we deny most emphatically the position of agnosticism in this |
| + | direction and as regards the solar system. Our doctrine knows no compromises. Neither |
| + | affirms or denies, for it teaches only that which it knows to be the truth, therefore, |
| + | we deny God both as philosophers and Buddhists. We know there is in our system no such |
| + | thing as God, either personal or impersonal.” |
| + | |
| + | Amid strife and in the manifestation of truth, upon the chariots of time ascend the |
| + | law-givers of human welfare: Moses, the untiring leader; Amos, the austere; Buddha, |
| + | lion-conqueror; Confucius, justice of life; Zoroaster, flaming poet of the sun; Plato, |
| + | transfigured and reflected in his “Shadows”; Blessed Issa, great in the immortal |
| + | sacrifice; solitary Origen, the wise commentator; Sergius, great teacher and ascetic. |
| + | All walked untiringly; all fell victim to the persecution of their day; all knew that |
| + | the teachings of general well-being would inevitably come to pass; all knew that each |
| + | sacrifice for the sake of the general well-being was but the approach of the way. |
| + | |
| + | On the mountain they tell of these teachings and listen to them simply. And in the |
| + | deserts and upon the steppes people sing in their daily life about eternity and about |
| + | the same general wellbeing. The Tibetans, the Mongols, the Buriats, all remember about |
| + | this happiness. |
| + | |
| + | And upon what do the peoples of Asia ponder? The Altaians remember the White |
| + | Burkhan—they even suffered in their expectation of Him twenty years ago. Upon the summit |
| + | of Herem they are turning to the White Burkhan: |
| + | |
| + | *Thou who dwellest behind white clouds |
| + | Behind the blue skies— |
| + | Three Kurbustans! |
| + | Thou wearing |
| + | four tresses— |
| + | White Burkhan! |
| + | Thou Spirit of Altai— |
| + | White Burkhan! |
| + | Thou peopling within |
| + | thyself, in gold and silver, |
| + | A nation, White Altai! |
| + | Thou who illuminest the day— |
| + | Sun—Burkhan! |
| + | Thou who illuminest the night— |
| + | Moon—Burkhan! |
| + | Let my call be inscribed |
| + | Within the book Sudur!* |
| + | |
| + | The White Burkhan commands that the idols be burnt and promises great yield to the |
| + | people’s lands and pastures. And so the general well-being will also reach to the |
| + | encampments of Altai. Thus is being transfigured the ancient legend about the coming of |
| + | Buddha to Altai. |
| + | |
| + | How ponder the people of Asia? The Buriats are singing: |
| + | |
| + | *You will say: Sun stand still! |
| + | What means its setting? |
| + | You will say: Century await! |
| + | What means its aging? |
| + | |
| + | You will say: Moon be still! |
| + | What means its wane? |
| + | You will say: Century await |
| + | What means its aging? |
| + | |
| + | You will say: Snow remain! |
| + | What means its melting? |
| + | You will say: Elders remain! |
| + | What means their passing? |
| + | |
| + | You will say: Cloud be still! |
| + | What means its hiding? |
| + | You will say: Elders remain! |
| + | What means their passing?* |
| + | |
| + | Mongols are singing: |
| + | |
| + | He who has no possessions which he would gather with thoughts of gain; |
| + | Who has naught with which he would not have strength enough to part; |
| + | Who thinks firmly—he possesses the lasting and beautiful delight.” |
| + | |
| + | Yes, the thought of Asia is strong. Under a turban, and a fez, and a tubeteika— a |
| + | resourceful mind and an ability richly applied. |
| + | |
| + | The ancient Chinese have preserved the beautiful hymn of the Mother of the Sun, calling |
| + | her Ruler of the East! |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/25.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,655 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 25 |
| + | |
| + | Among the manuscripts in the ancient Chinese watch-towers were found dictionaries and |
| + | the biographies of famous women. Such was the modernity of ancient peoples. |
| + | |
| + | When you already know the beauties of Asia, and are accustomed to all the richness of |
| + | its colors, nevertheless they again astonish you, and again elate your feelings, so that |
| + | you feel able to accomplish the impossible. |
| + | |
| + | Flies, mosquitoes, fleas, earwigs! All possible gifts has Kashmir. Our departure was not |
| + | without bloodshed. In Tangmarg a band of ruffians attacked our caravan and began to beat |
| + | our men with iron rods; seven of our men were hurt. It was necessary to preserve order |
| + | with revolvers and rifles. In Ghund, our hostlers fed the horses with poisonous grass; |
| + | the horses began to shiver and finally lay down. The entire night they had to be walked |
| + | up and down. My horse, Mastan, suffered especially, and also Sabsa, that of George. The |
| + | drivers made fires around the ammunition box. A wildcat crept into the tent under |
| + | George’s bed. |
| + | |
| + | Sattar Khan (our caravan leader) brought five ragamuffins: “This is a special guard from |
| + | the village. For in the neighborhood many Afridi (from Afghan) are wandering. They may |
| + | rob.” The ragamuffins slept near the tents. Nobody came to rob. |
| + | |
| + | Did the ancient Goths not compare Kashmir with the Tyrol? Or with the Rhine? |
| + | Transparent, ephemeral, flitting is the beauty of Kashmir. It is difficult to imagine |
| + | oneself in mighty Asia. Further, further—beyond, to the rocks and amber sands. |
| + | |
| + | Wet, rainy Baltal. We had not yet succeeded in spreading the wet tents when there arose |
| + | a new provocation. A policeman came with a report that our people had at that moment |
| + | just destroyed a sanitary post and had seriously insulted the doctor. Fortunately, the |
| + | guard at the railway station did not confirm this evil invention. We again bid our men |
| + | not to answer any insults. The caravaneers insisted upon our spending an extra day in |
| + | Baltal because of their fear of avalanches on Zoji. We discussed, walked, reconnoitered |
| + | on the mountain and with hesitation decided to move on. There were no avalanches, |
| + | although as always on the edges of the mountain, there may have been separate falling |
| + | stones. Upon the pass, as usual, was an icy wind. The fur coats became lighter than |
| + | gauze! |
| + | |
| + | The Balti had a stomach ache. Thoughtlessly, we gave him cognac. At once, three more |
| + | “became sick”; and when we gave them laxatives they began to demand the same medicine as |
| + | we gave to the first one. |
| + | |
| + | In the field near Dras remarkably beautiful women were working. They were of an Arabian |
| + | type, dressed in black shirts with black bands on their heads. We thought these were |
| + | Dards but were told they were Afridi, who came to the summer pastures from Afghan; these |
| + | are the ones of whom the people are afraid. |
| + | |
| + | There are stories of how caravans were looted: one Tibetan caravan was captured by the |
| + | Amban of Sining. The other was destroyed completely by a Mongolian Ja-lama, who, |
| + | beginning his career as a statesman, finished as a feudal bandit. |
| + | Hiskhoshuns, up to now, are marauding in Tsaidam. |
| + | |
| + | There are stories about the high interest which is extorted by the Sinkiang officials |
| + | and army officers. All loan money on interest, exacting up to twenty per cent per month. |
| + | It is terrible. |
| + | |
| + | We encounter the passing caravans. All sorts of people—Dards, Baltis, Ladakis, Astoris |
| + | and Yarkandis. The tongues are completely different. It is like an exodus of nations. |
| + | |
| + | After Zoji all changed. Kashmir remained behind with all its poisonous herbs, cholera |
| + | and insects. Crossing the icy bridges over a thundering river, we seemed to cross into |
| + | another country. People seem more honest; the streams seem more health-giving; the herbs |
| + | are more curative and the stones are multi-colored. And the air itself seems |
| + | exhilarating. Mornings are brisk—as of the first autumn frosts. In the afternoon there |
| + | is a clear dry heat. The rocks are purple and green of hue. Grasses are golden like rich |
| + | carpets. And the recesses of the mountains as well as the slime of the river-bed and the |
| + | healing aromatic herbs—all are prepared to contribute their gifts. Here verily great |
| + | decisions are possible. |
| + | |
| + | Beyond Dras we encounter the first Buddhist message. Near the road are two |
| + | stone stelae representing Maitreya. Nearby, a stone |
| + | with the image of a rider. Is this rider not upon a white horse? Is this not a messenger |
| + | of the new world? It is remarkable that this first Buddhist emblem happens to be just |
| + | the image of Maitreya. |
| + | |
| + | In Maulbeck, we visited a typical Tibetan home of the old order. We climbed up on a |
| + | slanting ladder as on a raised bridge. Within was the house chapel, and an odor of |
| + | incense. We found a portly hostess—a widow. From the balconies is a wondrous view, |
| + | encompassing all the mountains and a fantasy of sand formations. The rooms are peaceful. |
| + | Upon the floor near the door, a girl squeezes out vegetable oil for lamps. Behind her is |
| + | the skin of a yak, and her head is crowned by a weighty headdress of turquoise. |
| + | |
| + | In Dras is the first sign of Maitreya. But in ancient Maulbeck, a gigantic image of the |
| + | Coming One powerfully stands beside the road. Every traveler must pass by this rock. Two |
| + | hands reach toward the sky, like the summons of far-off worlds. Two hands reach downward |
| + | like the benediction of earth. They know that Maitreya is coming. Is it not about this |
| + | gigantic image that Fa-hsien wrote in his diaries? So it would seem. |
| + | |
| + | The Monastery, Maulbeck, with two temples and endless ruins, crowns the rocks with an |
| + | unusually heroic chord. As a precious bronze wedge! And the country of forgotten heroism |
| + | is asleep. Forgotten is the legend of Herodotus about ants bringing gold from the shore |
| + | of the Indus. But some remember about this gold. And Gessar-Khan promises to open the |
| + | gold fields upon a certain date to the people who will be worthily able to meet the |
| + | coming tide of Maitreya—the age of universal unity ordained by Buddha himself. |
| + | |
| + | Ladaki drivers, who are Buddhists, wash their hands and heads, and rinse their mouths |
| + | before each meal. And they sing resoundingly and joyously. And my black hostler begins a |
| + | dance on the road. We go merrily. We observe the colors and silhouettes of the rocks. |
| + | |
| + | Whoever built Lamayuru and Maulbeck knew what was true beauty and fearlessness. Before |
| + | such expanse, before such decorations, Italian cities pale. And these solemn rows of |
| + | stupas are like joyous torches upon tourmaline sands. Where will one find such |
| + | decoration as the castle of “Tiger’s Peak,” or the endless ruins of the castles crowning |
| + | all the slopes near the Tibetan Kharbu? Where lies a country equal to these forsaken |
| + | spots? Let us be just and bow before such true beauty. |
| + | |
| + | It is amazing. Here in Lamayuru, in this very stronghold not only of the Red sects but |
| + | even Bon-po, among the row of images stands a great image of Maitreya. It was placed |
| + | here about two hundred years ago. Even here did this knowledge penetrate. Maitreya alone |
| + | binds firmly the Mahayana and Hinayana including Ceylon. In this reverence are united |
| + | Yellow and Red sects. There is magnificence in this reverence of the future. |
| + | |
| + | The caravans, meeting, greet each other. They always inquire, “Whence do you come?” They |
| + | never inquire, “Who are you?” Movement has already effaced personality. Above the |
| + | caravans sound the calls, “Shabash” (good way ahead) |
| + | or “Kabarda” (danger, attention). And truly, on the |
| + | steep banks of the yellow, thunderous Indus, there is always danger of a cruel, swift |
| + | tide, a sweep of sharp stones which can brush the horse into the whirlpool of the |
| + | torrent. |
| + | |
| + | Saspul is an open, merry place. Around it are many monasteries. At the very road is a |
| + | small monastery, and within it a gigantic image of the seated Maitreya. On the side also |
| + | stand giants, Manjushri and Avalokiteshvara. In the front temple is an ancient |
| + | stone stela with the same images, which dates from |
| + | the tenth century or earlier. The lama of the temple talks with knowledge about |
| + | Maitreya. This temple has been little noticed in descriptions. |
| + | |
| + | Maitreya stands as the symbol of the future. But we also perceived the signs of the |
| + | past. Upon the rocks are images of deer, of mountain goats with twisted horns, of |
| + | horses. |
| + | |
| + | Where did we recall similar images? Why, on the stones of North America; upon Siberian |
| + | rocks; the same technique, the same stylization, and the same reverence for animals. Few |
| + | are the human images. We saw only one—an archer and several rows of people, perhaps |
| + | representing a ritual. Through these images, America and Asia stretch hands to each |
| + | other. On the wall of a semi-grotto where we paused for rest, the hands of some unknown |
| + | travelers had also left the figures of animals. |
| + | |
| + | Basgo is an ancient monastery upon the sharp cliffs. Such a whimsical and variegated |
| + | line, without any minuteness, is seldom seen. |
| + | |
| + | The Ladaki villages are not ill-smelling. On the contrary, one often smells incense, |
| + | wild mint, sage, apples and apricots. |
| + | |
| + | We passed Kalatse. There upon the bridge was nailed the hand of the “robber,” Sukamir, |
| + | who attempted to conquer Ladak for Kashmir. A cat had devoured this venal hand—and in |
| + | its place it was found necessary to borrow the hand of a dead lama, lest the symbol |
| + | suffer. Already missionaries are in Kalatse. |
| + | |
| + | Encampments from Srinagar to Leh: Ganderbal, Kangan, Ghund, Sonamarg, Baltal (Zoji), |
| + | Matayan, Dras, Kharbu, Kargil, Maulbeck, Tibetan Kharbu, Lamayuru, Nurla, Saspul |
| + | (Basgo), Nyimu. The last may be omitted if the night-lodging is prepared in Leh. |
| + | |
| + | Wheat does not fear an altitude of twelve thousand feet, and barley is adaptable as high |
| + | as fifteen thousand feet. Horses are fed with barley instead of oats. A certain |
| + | veterinarian attempted to prove that barley was very harmful for horses but all Tibet in |
| + | practice has proved the opposite. |
| + | |
| + | In the time of war and revolution the trade of Turkestan and India was increased. In Leh |
| + | the former political inspector of Gilgit is stationed as special trade agent. |
| + | |
| + | Bearded vultures, white-tailed eagles and European falcons of brownish-gold are perching |
| + | upon the sapphires and tourmalines of the mountains. |
| + | |
| + | On New Year the Tibetans bring to Buddha freshly blossoming greens, because the Tibetan |
| + | New Year is at the beginning of February. And in Lhasa at that time they prepare for |
| + | work in the fields. What then is there better and fresher and more symbolic of striving |
| + | to offer to Buddha than the fresh seedlings, this first message of the awakened life? |
| + | |
| + | Either one must accept what exists in its full reality or find recourse in personal |
| + | superstitions. Of course, reality is precious. But then, one must take the actual living |
| + | facts. These facts will bring their offering of tender verdure to Buddha; they also will |
| + | evoke dreams of the unity of the peoples. They will give rise to the structure of the |
| + | new unions. But these facts one can verify only in the desert beyond the accessible |
| + | boundaries, outside of the sphere of influence; where there are no slanderers, no liars; |
| + | where one thinks all afresh; where decisions do not depend upon any outlined |
| + | regulations. |
| + | |
| + | We are looking upon the inexhaustibly rich rock formations. We note where and how were |
| + | conceived the examples of symbolic images. Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics |
| + | with their wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks. One perceives how the forms of imagery |
| + | blend with the mountain atmosphere. Just those forms, thought out in the West, here |
| + | begin to live and become convincing. One may expect the appearance of Kuan Yin; or Lhamo |
| + | prepares the element of destruction; or the image of Mahakala may issue from the mass of |
| + | the cliff. And how many enchanted stone knights await their liberation! How many |
| + | enchanted helmets and swords are hidden in the chasms! This is not the unlifelike |
| + | Durandale from Rockamadura. This is the real tragedy and achievement of life. And |
| + | Bruguma of Gessar Khan is kin to Brunhilde of Siegfried. Crafty Locke runs along the |
| + | fiery rocks. And under a tremendous banyan tree, in an orange mantle, sits a Sanyasin, |
| + | in all ways and manners the same as in the times of Gautama Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | Over the mountains rings out the “Forging of the Sword” and the “Call of Valkyrie” and |
| + | the “Magic Fire Music” and the “Roar of Fafner.” I remember Stravinsky once was ready to |
| + | annihilate Wagner. No, Igor, this heroic realism, these harmonies of achievement are not |
| + | to be destroyed. And the music of Wagner is also true, and rings remarkably in the |
| + | mountains. Ragtime and fox-trots will not supplant Wagner. Upon the Tyrolian rocks and |
| + | in the Villa at Pisa, Wagner became filled with a true enthusiasm and his sweep is fit |
| + | for the heights of Asia. Humanity still lives by beauty. |
| + | |
| + | An unusual fire in the village Nyimu! I was awakened by the exclamation of E.I.: “Fire! |
| + | Fire!” I awoke and saw the silhouette of E.I. against a background of undulating bluish |
| + | flame; gradually the fire died out. It appears that E.I. approached the bed and touched |
| + | the blanket. The bluish flame, warm, odorless, flashed up. E.I. tried to extinguish it |
| + | with her hands but the flame spread more and more strongly. Then she called me. The fire |
| + | ceased as it began, without leaving the slightest trace on anything. Unforgettable was |
| + | this leaping flame, unconsuming and vivid. The tent was entirely illumined. As always |
| + | during phenomena, only afterwards we could talk over all the unusual details of this |
| + | fire. |
| + | |
| + | Dr. Francke relates the words of his Tibetan fellow traveler at the source of the Indus, |
| + | in view of certain heights: “Behind them lies Ba-yul, the country of tall beings. Only |
| + | highly developed people can find out something about the life in this Ba-yul. But if a |
| + | simple man approaches the snowy boundaries he sometimes hears only voices |
| + | incomprehensible to him.” |
| + | |
| + | A Ladaki song: |
| + | |
| + | Through the gates of the east entered the Hindu Faith. |
| + | Say, did you pass by way of the sacred word? |
| + | The Persian kingdom erects the gates of the south. |
| + | Did you pass through them? |
| + | The celestial message of China opens to us the western gates. |
| + | How did you pass the way of the Chinese sign? |
| + | And the gates of the north belong to Gessar Khan. |
| + | How did you pass the way of the sword stroke? |
| + | Did you pass the gates leading to Lhasa, where lies the way of the seekers of truth? |
| + | The east—the gates of India. There, hallowing the sacred word and custom, we rested. |
| + | The Persian kingdom possesses the gates of the south. |
| + | There we revered the border of the noble ones. |
| + | The celestial message of China opened to us the western gates. |
| + | Affirming the dates it gave us happiness. |
| + | The gates to the warrior, Gessar, are on the north. |
| + | By the clash of swords we passed these nations. |
| + | And through the gates of Lhasa, seeking for truth, |
| + | We passed, testing in silence our spirit. |
| + | |
| + | The geographical oddities of the song evidently result from the accumulations of |
| + | different races. |
| + | |
| + | Another beautiful Ladaki song: |
| + | |
| + | One is visited by wisdom and one is only an onlooker. |
| + | Some can achieve wholly naught, therefore one must test himself here. |
| + | But to him who already comes with wisdom, there is special bliss. |
| + | Does the High One need the wisdom of nine signs? |
| + | And does the mediocre one need the same? |
| + | Are you coming as friend of high estate or do you only desire a purse? |
| + | Did you come without threats? |
| + | Do you wish the covenant of friendship? |
| + | There are three kinds of enemies. |
| + | There are three kinds of friends. |
| + | Would you enumerate them? |
| + | There are three enemies: |
| + | An enemy who induces sickness, |
| + | An enemy who hates the spirit, |
| + | An enemy who avenges in bloodshed. |
| + | We did not come as enemies, |
| + | We are friend to you. |
| + | We name three friends: |
| + | Our Liberator Buddha, |
| + | The union of a harmonious family, |
| + | The union of love and blood. |
| + | Here are the three friends. |
| + | Verily, it is so. |
| + | |
| + | The geographical oddities of the song evidently result from the accumulations of |
| + | different races. |
| + | |
| + | We recall the beautiful little book of Claude Bragdon, “Episodes of an Unwritten |
| + | History.” We could furnish him with several more episodes. It is always pleasant to meet |
| + | Bragdon. All that he does is so sincere and fine. |
| + | |
| + | Pay attention to the blending of Kuan Yin, Aryabalo—Avalokiteshvara. Gessar insists upon |
| + | the structure of the temple, Aryabalo. |
| + | |
| + | The name of Gessar has reached as far as the Volga (Astrakhan). |
| + | |
| + | Gessar is being identified with Assur. |
| + | |
| + | The temple of Gessar Khan was built upon the site of the manifestation of |
| + | Avalokiteshvara. |
| + | |
| + | The people of Ordoss place before the house five colored banners, the colors of the |
| + | rainbow, awaiting the coming of the great being—“Tengiras Ochirtai.” |
| + | |
| + | The abbot of the monastery Wu-t’ai shan in the book, “The Red Path to Shambhala,” |
| + | describes many details of the way into this forbidden place. At the end of it there is a |
| + | characteristic detail, to the effect that the traveler saw on the very edge of the |
| + | safeguarded place, a caravan of Mongols with salt, although they did not suspect the |
| + | nearness of the dwelling. |
| + | |
| + | A Buriat lama gives the information that when he went to Shambhala he was led by an |
| + | underground passage. The passage sometimes became so narrow that one could hardly push |
| + | through the thoroughbred ram, which was being led into the forbidden place. |
| + | |
| + | Mongolian lamas indicate several “safeguarded” places in the boundaries of Khangai and |
| + | Gobi. There came several hurried messengers from the Himalayas. |
| + | |
| + | Near Kalatse many places are pointed out which are dedicated to the name of Gessar Khan: |
| + | 1. Garuda—of Gessar Khan. 2. Saddle of Gessar. 3. Tambourine of Bruguma, wife of Gessar. |
| + | 4. Spinning wheel of Bruguma. 5. Castle of Gessar Khan—a high rock—a white spot |
| + | indicates the sign of a door. |
| + | |
| + | On Sumur upon the rock is an image of a crowned lion. This lion is upon Tibetan and |
| + | military banners. |
| + | |
| + | Mongols speak about the coming of “Meru.” |
| + | |
| + | In the spring in Ladak is a festival of Gessar, celebrated with singing and archery. |
| + | From the names of the songs one may weave a complete garland about Gessar. |
| + | |
| + | Let us remember the names: Gessar the Conqueror; Gessar and the Treasury of the Giants; |
| + | The Wisdom of Bruguma; Father and Mother, the All-powerful; The Return of Gessar and |
| + | Bruguma; The Voices of Heaven; The Conjuration of the Arrow; The Four Victories of |
| + | Gessar; The Prayer of Gessar; Upon the Peak Shrar; Gessar the Ruler of Lightning; The |
| + | Victory Song of Gessar; Praise to Gessar. |
| + | |
| + | These titles alone proclaim the path of folk-consciousness, of the national dignity and |
| + | the dream about the hero of freedom. |
| + | |
| + | Both Ladakis and Mongols await fighters and builders of life. They endow them not only |
| + | with a leonine courage but with serpentine cunning and the tirelessness of a stag. How |
| + | wondrous it is to observe the growth of the consciousness and its forging of heroic |
| + | symbols! |
| + | |
| + | The images upon the rocks can be ascribed to three periods: the Neolith, the ancient |
| + | faith of Bon-po and the superstition of a later period. In the technique of the images |
| + | themselves one can distinguish the firm, succulent stylization of antiquity and the |
| + | restrained, sharp line of later drawings. |
| + | |
| + | The name of Orion is often connected with the narrative about Gessar Khan, On Altai, the |
| + | mountain Beluha is called Outch-Sure. Outch means Orion; Sure, the dwelling of Gods; |
| + | thus correlating to the Mongolian Sumer and Hindu Sumeru. Upon the mountain Outch-Sure |
| + | one ascends by a White Khatik. The heavenly bird upon the mountain Outch-Sure has |
| + | conquered the dragon. Tsagan Ubugun, white old man, is always near to the Great Bear. |
| + | |
| + | They say in the caravan that the Mongolian soldiers—tseriks—carry special banners and |
| + | sing a hymn composed by them about the approach of the time of Shambhala. |
| + | |
| + | From border to border, from mouth to mouth. |
| + | |
| + | One does not care to give to the local images any ethnographical or geographical |
| + | character. Let them go as banners: “Sanctuaries and Citadels.” Let them, by their |
| + | general tone of heroism and attainment, themselves speak for this country. |
| + | |
| + | Spitug is a powerful monastery, the first, according to the teachings of Tsong-kha-pa. |
| + | Here are not ruins, but a living and working community. The abbot of the monastery and |
| + | his coworkers are learned and strikingly keen men. Before one has yet completely spoken, |
| + | they are ready to continue your finished thought correctly. In Spitug lies the image of |
| + | Maitreya and the knowledge of the prophecies. In one of the divisions of Spitug in Leh |
| + | in a special compartment stands a great image of Dukar, Mother of the World, with |
| + | numberless eyes of omniscience, and with the arrow of justice. At her right, stands |
| + | Maitreya—the Coming One. At her left, the many-armed image of the Avalokiteshvara, this |
| + | conclave of the Brotherhood of the Great Unity. One should remember the correlation of |
| + | these three symbols. This correlation has never been remarked upon or explained. |
| + | |
| + | In both branches of Spitug, the murals are excellent, with strong tones and feeling of |
| + | balance. They have promised to procure for us the same artist who painted these stirring |
| + | walls. |
| + | |
| + | To our camp came riding a missionary from Yarkand. On yaks, he had just crossed Khardong |
| + | Pass, losing all sense of days and dates. His watch had stopped. He repeated constantly: |
| + | “It is a staggeringly hard journey.” He told us that the worst spots were Khardong and |
| + | Sasser Pass, while Karakorum, though higher was easier. He praised highly the people of |
| + | Turkestan. He informed us that the Amban is already awaiting us and considers us his |
| + | guests. |
| + | |
| + | The monastery Sheh, seven miles from Leh, is wonderfully laid out. In it is a |
| + | tremendous, two-storied image of Buddha, the finest mural of any seen by us thus far. |
| + | |
| + | In Trikshe also are the great images of Buddha, Maitreya and Manjushri. The paintings |
| + | are somewhat simpler. We did not see friendly lamas there. There was only an old |
| + | Mongolian lama who, judging by his erratic laughter, was not quite normal. |
| + | |
| + | One must also see the reverse side of Buddhism—let us go to Hemis. On approaching one |
| + | already feels the strange atmosphere of darkness and dejection. The stupas have strange |
| + | fearful images—ugly faces. Dark banners. Black ravens fly above and black dogs are |
| + | gnawing at bones. And the canyon tightly incloses itself. Of course, the temple and the |
| + | houses are all huddled together. And the objects of service are heaped together in dark |
| + | corners like pillaged loot. The lamas are half-literate. Our guide laughs. “Hemis, a big |
| + | name, but a little monastery.” Of course, small, not according to size, but to inner |
| + | meaning. Here is apparent prejudice and greed. The only fine thing about it was that |
| + | upon the neighboring sharp rocks, at morning, the stags appeared and, standing long upon |
| + | the cliffs, turned their heads to greet the sun. |
| + | |
| + | It is an old monastery founded by a great lama who left a book about Shambhala and these |
| + | manuscripts are lying down below, out of sight, probably feeding the mice. |
| + | |
| + | Regarding the legends of Jesus—first there was a complete denial. To our amazement |
| + | denial first comes from the circle of missionaries. Then slowly, little by little, creep |
| + | in fragmentary, reticent details, difficult to obtain. Finally it appears that the old |
| + | people in Ladak have heard and know about the legends. |
| + | |
| + | Such legends about Jesus and the Book of Shambhala lie in the “darkest” place. And the |
| + | figure of the lama—the compiler of the book of Shambhala—stands like an idol in some |
| + | sort of fantastic headgear. And how many other relics have perished in dusty corners? |
| + | For the Tantrik-lamas have no interest in them. It was necessary to see this other side |
| + | of Buddhism. |
| + | |
| + | And how simple it is to brush aside this grime and dust of fanaticism! How simple to |
| + | restore the stirring mural paintings! How easy to purify and to cleanse the finely |
| + | wrought statues! Nor is it difficult to bring the monastic organizations back to the |
| + | full meaning of the working order, according to the teachings of the greatest Lion |
| + | (Sinha)—Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | “I am the King of Ladak”—thus the slender, slight man in Tibetan garb, approached us. He |
| + | is the former King of Ladak, who was conquered by Kashmiris. His is a fine, intellectual |
| + | face. Now his means are very limited. And so we speak at tea, and we tell him we love |
| + | his country and his people who are remarkable for their calmness and honesty. We speak |
| + | of the teaching and the guest in a fine, subtle way, remarks that the Yellow and Red |
| + | Sects are now almost alike in many observances. We speak of ancient things, of the |
| + | finesse of the work. The king invites us to see his palace, which rises high upon the |
| + | rocks overlooking Leh. |
| + | |
| + | We climb the steep, uncertain staircases. We pass along the dark crossings. We pause, |
| + | rapt in joy, upon the terraces and balconies, from which, before us, spreads the vista |
| + | of all mountains and sand-mounds. We must bow in order to enter the low, tiny doors |
| + | which lead into the house temple. The temple is dedicated to Dukar, the resplendent |
| + | Mother of the World. In the center again stands her image. On her right hand—Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | Although the king now lives in Stog, the summer palace, nevertheless, before these |
| + | images are fresh flowers. On the walls hang many finely colored banners. The general |
| + | feeling of the paintings here is finer than in Sikhim, and one feels the great influence |
| + | of Tashi-lhunpo. |
| + | |
| + | Near the palace, in a separate temple, is placed the gigantic image of Maitreya. The |
| + | wall painting there is very majestic. Often, the murals of Italy or of Russian churches, |
| + | were either too detailed or too general in parts. But here one is startled by the |
| + | unusual combination of breadth of understanding of the general parts, with their |
| + | richness of detail. The figure of Maitreya is two stories high—up to the waist in the |
| + | lower floor, and on the higher floor, the Image itself. Perhaps this division of the |
| + | statue was done as an afterthought, but its idea is quite remarkable. It is as though |
| + | the common man should not perceive at once the entire grandeur of the symbol. One must |
| + | ascend the upper way in order to reach the Image—as though of a higher world. The lower |
| + | floor is bathed in twilight while above, through the narrow windows without glass, the |
| + | rays of the bright, all-penetrating sun pour in. And near you are great number of stupas |
| + | and the glistening sand and fantastic networks of the gates. |
| + | |
| + | The Mongolian lama has arrived and with him a new wave of news; they await our arrival |
| + | in Lhasa. In monasteries, he says, all are discussing the prophecies. He is an excellent |
| + | lama and has already traveled from Urga to Ceylon. How far this organization of the |
| + | lamas is penetrating everywhere! |
| + | |
| + | We are talking with the lama about what happened to us near Darjeeling. It must be |
| + | recorded. We were going in an automobile near the monastery Ghum. Approaching us there |
| + | appeared a porte-chaise, carried by four servants in white garments, while the lama |
| + | himself sat in a remarkably beautiful garment with a crown upon his head. He had a |
| + | bright, welcoming face, with a small black beard. The automobile had to slow down, and |
| + | the lama smiled and joyously nodded his head. We thought that this was the important |
| + | abbot of a large monastery. But afterwards we discovered that lamas are not carried in |
| + | porte-chaises, nor do they wear crowns when traveling. Nor do lamas in Sikhim appear in |
| + | such beautiful garments. No one ever heard of such a lama—and a face like his we found |
| + | nowhere. The chauffeur slowed up the automobile while driving before the lama, which |
| + | enabled us sharply to observe his face. |
| + | |
| + | The last flight of the Tashi Lama had a heroic character. Three hundred armed lamas |
| + | accompanied the visionary refugee. Each of them, and the Tashi Lama himself, led an |
| + | extra horse by the bridle, because the flight was hurried—and pursuit threatened them |
| + | from all sides. A message was brought to them, just in time, that five hundred Lhasan |
| + | horsemen were hastening to cut off escape on the Nagchu Pass. The Tashi Lama succeeded |
| + | in turning to the side and escaping through a gorge. A snowstorm rose and the pursuit |
| + | was cut off. |
| + | |
| + | So, full-armed, amidst an incessant galloping, an historic flight occurred—the |
| + | fulfillment of the ancient prophecies, so important for the future, took place. |
| + | According to an eyewitness, the monk-artist Gelong Champa Tashi, the Tashi Lama took |
| + | with him from Tashi-lhunpo only the pictures of Shambhala. Out of them, on the way, he |
| + | gave two to well-known Khutukhtas; and here in Ladak was Rinpoche, from the Chumbi, who |
| + | told us that now the shortest way is only through Shambhala! In many monasteries the |
| + | images of Maitreya are being raised and restored! |
| + | |
| + | From hand to hand among the local inhabitants the prophecies and new commands are |
| + | traveling. With excitement they are comparing the dates which have already been |
| + | fulfilled. And they prepare and await, await, await. . . . |
| + | |
| + | Someone comes in the evening and whispers about a new manuscript of Shambhala. We ask |
| + | him to bring it. |
| + | |
| + | One must be in these places to understand what occurs! One must look into the eyes of |
| + | these coming ones, in order to realize how vitally important for them is the meaning of |
| + | Shambhala. And the dates of events are not a curious oddity for them but are connected |
| + | with the structures of the future. Though these structures are sometimes dust-ridden and |
| + | perverted, their substance is vital and stirs the thought. Following the development of |
| + | thought you realize the dreams and hopes. And out of these fragments has been pieced |
| + | together the real departure of the Tashi Lama—an important one. The new web of the |
| + | world! |
| + | |
| + | Three years before his departure, the Tashi Lama ordered that frescoes be painted on the |
| + | walls of his inner chambers. In these frescoes in clear symbols are represented all the |
| + | wanderings of the Tashi Lama through various countries. |
| + | |
| + | Throughout Ladak are scattered stones with images of a cross, apparently Druid or |
| + | Nestorian. The most ancient and now forgotten country preserves the Druid signs and all |
| + | possible later symbols. |
| + | |
| + | Not far from the site of Buddha stand most ancient tombs called ancient Dard graves. |
| + | Their age is of course considerably more than a thousand years. |
| + | |
| + | Three items of information reached us in one day about the legends of Jesus. A Hindu |
| + | said to us: “I have heard from one Ladaki official that according to the words of the |
| + | former Abbot of Hemis, there was a tree and a small pool in Leh beside which Jesus |
| + | taught.” (This is some new version about a tree and a pool, unheard before.) |
| + | |
| + | The missionary says: “A nonsensical invention composed by a Pole who sat in Hemis |
| + | several months.” (One may ask why invented, when it coincides with other versions and |
| + | proofs.) |
| + | |
| + | Another says: “Is it not a Nestorian legend? Among them were many legends and true ones. |
| + | But missionaries know nothing about it.” |
| + | |
| + | So the subject is being discussed. Thus slowly the news begins to leak out. The chief |
| + | thing is the unusual depth of the legend and the wonderful meaning it has to the lamas |
| + | throughout the entire East. |
| + | |
| + | A good and sensitive Hindu spoke meaningly about the manuscript of the life of Issa. |
| + | “Why does one always place Issa in Egypt during the time of his absence from Palestine? |
| + | His young years of course were passed in study. The traces of his learning have |
| + | naturally impressed themselves upon his later sermons. To what sources do these sermons |
| + | lead? What is there in them of Egyptian? And why does one not see traces of Buddhism—of |
| + | India? It is difficult to understand why the wandering of Issa by caravan path into |
| + | India and into the region now occupied by Tibet, should be so vehemently denied.” |
| + | |
| + | The teachings of India were famed far and wide; let us even recall the description of |
| + | the life of Appolonius of Tyana and his visits to Hindu sages. |
| + | |
| + | Another speaker reminds us that in Syria a slab was found with an inscribed governmental |
| + | edict about the persecution of the followers of Jesus as enemies of the government. This |
| + | archaeological find must be curious for those who deny the historicity of Jesus the |
| + | Teacher. And how does one explain the tiny coins used by the early Christians in the |
| + | catacombs? And the first catacombs themselves still exist. |
| + | |
| + | There are always those who love scornfully to deny when something difficult enters their |
| + | consciousness; but then, knowledge is transformed into seminaristic scholasticism and |
| + | slander is cultivated as a fine art. In what possible way could a recent forgery |
| + | penetrate into the consciousness of the whole East? And where is the scientist who could |
| + | write a long treatise in Pali and Tibetan? We do not know such a one. |
| + | |
| + | Each day the lama rejoices and astonishes us. He has seen so much and knows so much and |
| + | is able so keenly to discriminate among the people. Just now he has brought us the |
| + | information that a name very close to us is mentioned in the most ancient prophecies. |
| + | There is not the slightest bigotry in the lama and for the defense of the foundations he |
| + | is even ready to take arms. |
| + | |
| + | He will whisper: “Do not speak to this man—he will babble everything.” . . . “And now I |
| + | had better leave you.” And there is nothing personal felt behind his motives. And how |
| + | ready he is to move farther! |
| + | |
| + | Leh is a remarkable site. Here the legends connected the paths of Buddha and Christ. |
| + | Buddha went through Leh northwards. Issa communed here with the people on his way from |
| + | Tibet. Secretly and cautiously the legends are guarded. It is difficult to sound them |
| + | because lamas, above all people, know how to keep silent. Only by means of a common |
| + | language—and not merely that of tongue but also of inner understanding—can one approach |
| + | their significant mysteries. One becomes convinced that every educated Gelong knows |
| + | much. Even by his eyes one cannot guess when he agrees or inwardly laughs at you, |
| + | knowing more than yourself. How many stories these silent ones can tell of the passing |
| + | “savants” who have found themselves in the most ridiculous positions! But now has come |
| + | the time of the illumination of Asia. |
| + | |
| + | Wonderful voices have the Ladakis. Their robes strangely recall the Russian Byzantine |
| + | ornaments. Often instead of the fur slung behind the shoulders, there is a short mantle |
| + | of cloth with embroidered designs, which gives the impression of the |
| + | ancient corsno (Byzantine mantle-cloak). Their high |
| + | embroidered hats are like those of Boyars. In their girdles are metal depositories for a |
| + | pen and a pair of reed pipes, and with these latter they fill the evening with ringing |
| + | melodies. During the hours of their work in the fields the Ladakis wear on their heads |
| + | wreaths of barley and flowers. And the songs—such ringing joyous sound—are like the |
| + | nature of Ladak itself! |
| + | |
| + | Once again came the King of Ladak. As a result we are to live in his palace. From this |
| + | site of the sermons of Issa, from its high terraces, one must paint a series of all that |
| + | can be seen from here. In these high places, purified by winds, occurred the signs of |
| + | great communions. Of course the places have changed. Destructions and constructions |
| + | succeeded one another. The conquerors have brought new accumulations, but the basic |
| + | silhouette remains unchanged. The same heavenly frames as formerly are crowning the |
| + | earth—the same glowing stars and the tides of sand like a sea congealed. And the |
| + | deafening winds, sweeping up from the earth. . . . |
| + | |
| + | And here is the site of Buddha. It is eroded by time. A legend speaks of a “great and |
| + | very ancient structure.” But now the abutments of cliffs and rugged stones speak only of |
| + | destruction. The old hewn stones have gone to the structure of later stupas, which in |
| + | their turn have already crumbled. One fact is evident—you stand upon a place of ancient |
| + | habitation. Not far off is an old village and a sharp-peaked heap of ruins—remains of an |
| + | ancient fortress merged together like a monolith. |
| + | |
| + | The days are filled with our settling in the Ladaki palace. Crowds of people are coming: |
| + | envoys from Lhasa, Tibetan merchants, Ak-sakal the Elder, Tasildar from Kashmir (the |
| + | district chief) and, again, the King of Ladak. |
| + | |
| + | The old King Lama came himself. In spite of his poverty he brought with him about ten |
| + | accompanying lamas and relatives. From the conversation it became apparent that the |
| + | family of the king knows of the manuscripts about Issa. They also informed us that many |
| + | Mohammedans would like to possess this document. Then followed conversation about |
| + | prophecies connected with Shambhala, about the dates and about that which fills reality |
| + | with beauty. The old King Lama departs and the crowd in white kaftans bow before him in |
| + | reverence, simply and beautifully. |
| + | |
| + | As simply yesterday in the street did a woman, walking out of the field of stubble, |
| + | approach and stretch out a hand of greeting. They are now harvesting the golden barley. |
| + | Rows of people with flower wreaths on their heads, carry on their backs sheaves of |
| + | golden wheat and sing stirringly and joyously, in golden full-voiced garlands of song. |
| + | |
| + | And so we live in a Ladaki palace. The ruins of Italian castles pale in comparison with |
| + | this picturesque pile, this mass which rises in the chalice of the many-colored |
| + | mountains. Where have we seen such lofty roof-terraces? Where have we previously walked |
| + | upon such ruined alleys? Of course in the painting of Mehesky—the Moon |
| + | people. Of course, these are the very same towers. Only here are |
| + | dwelling not the Mehesky, but descendants of Gessar Khan. All Kings of Ladak trace their |
| + | descent from the heroic Gessar Khan. |
| + | |
| + | How wonderful that George knows all necessary Tibetan dialects. Only without a |
| + | translator will people here speak about spiritual things. Now one must absorb, with full |
| + | knowledge, with clear, true approach. Curiosity is not fitting. Only insistent love of |
| + | knowledge! |
| + | |
| + | The eighth of September. Letters from America. Many messages will miss us here. The |
| + | letters traveled for six weeks—but successfully reached the steamer. |
| + | |
| + | Upon the walls of the room chosen as the dining-room are painted vases with many-colored |
| + | plants. On the bedroom walls are all the symbols of Chintamani—the stone of the treasure |
| + | of the world. And the carved pillars, black from age, support the dusky ceiling with its |
| + | big Berendey-like balusters. Little doors are above a high threshold and the narrow |
| + | windows are without glass. And before nightfall the wind blows freely through the |
| + | passageways. The floor is covered with bright felting from Yarkand. And upon the lower |
| + | terrace a black dog barks—Tumbal, and the white dog, Amdong, are our new fellow |
| + | travelers. During the night the wind whistles and the old walls shake. |
| + | |
| + | I am painting in the upper chamber which has its exit upon all the roofs. Its doors have |
| + | broad carved casements and the pillars have intricately frescoed capitals. Stairs, steps |
| + | and dark ceilings are patterned by age. Where have I seen this chamber before? Where |
| + | have these bright colors sparkled? Of course in the “Snowmaiden” in the Chicago setting. |
| + | My dear ones enter and say: “Well, here is verily the true Berendey in his own chamber.” |
| + | |
| + | Berendeyevka ended sooner than we thought—the fall does not tarry. One |
| + | must pass Karakorum before the autumn northeast wind approaches. The way to Shayok is |
| + | passable only a week longer. Moreover, the people already have taken the bridges apart |
| + | for fuel, and the water has risen to the height of a man. There remains the path through |
| + | the Khardong and Sasser passes. Many varied imperative considerations cause us to hasten |
| + | the date of departure. With a large caravan one becomes a subject. |
| + | |
| + | Hence with horses, with mules and yaks, with rams and with dogs, we go on the old |
| + | trail—but with the signs of new possibilities, we will walk upon the mountains. And then |
| + | down to the deserts. Is it possible to descend from the mountains? But the element of |
| + | the sand is also beckoning and the desert nights and sunrises are also glowing. And in |
| + | this glimmer of beauty lies the whole conception and hope. |
| + | |
| + | Karakorum—the black throne. Beyond lies China—again the old patrimony of Buddha. |
| + | |
| + | On a red steed, unbridled, with flaming banner, rushes the Great Rider, in armor and |
| + | blowing upon the sacred conch-shell. From him are darting tongues of flame and before |
| + | him fly messengers—birds. Behind him lie the mountains—Beluha. Snows and the White Tara |
| + | send blessings. Above him exultingly is held the gathering of the Great Lamas. Beneath |
| + | him are the guardians and herds of domestic animals as the symbols of the site. This |
| + | ancient Tibetan picture was brought to us on the last day of our life in Ladak. |
| + | |
| + | In the courtyard they complete the loading of the yaks. We are now setting out! And the |
| + | day is sparkling. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/26.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,11 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 26 |
| + | |
| + | At last one can finally leave all of Kashmir’s falseness and dirt. One can forget |
| + | half-ruined Srinagar. One can forget the attack made on our caravan by armed bandits. |
| + | The Moravian mission in Leh has some strange restrictions and informs us of its consent |
| + | to rent us one of its houses on condition that I sign an agreement to do no “Religious, |
| + | semi-religious, etc., propaganda.” No one could explain just what meaning the mysterious |
| + | *semi* and *etc.* had. And who could pledge himself not to exceed the |
| + | incomprehensible limit of *semi* and *etc.?* We were able to get along |
| + | without the headquarters of the mission—in the Palace of the Ladaki King. Only in the |
| + | mountains does one feel safe. Only in the desert passes ignorance does not reach one. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/27.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,265 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 27 |
| + | |
| + | Our faithful Ladakis had intended to go with us to the most distant parts. In Khotan |
| + | they soon became somewhat depressed. They wandered through the bazaars; they complained |
| + | that the people pulled their braids; they grieved because of the Chinese officials. They |
| + | assured us that the Chinese Taotai would order them beaten. They said that the Taotai |
| + | himself had killed a man. At last the whole sack-garbed crowd of Ladakis came; they |
| + | smiled, they shifted about, they crowded close to one another, they repeated what |
| + | goodyum-kusho |
| + | |
| + | (mistress) and |
| + | |
| + | yab-kusho |
| + | |
| + | (great gentleman), we were; and finally with tears they begged us to let them go home. |
| + | They hinted that if we would go further on our way at once they would remain with us, |
| + | but that in Khotan it was impossible to live. They left us very touchingly, hurrying |
| + | through the snowy passes. Although it was only the beginning of November they were held |
| + | back in Sanju where the crossing had become impassable. We then appreciated the advice |
| + | we had had, to start as early as possible, because just after our passage, there started |
| + | a continuous blizzard and the severest frosts. |
| + | |
| + | We did not even consider their statement that it was impossible to live in Khotan; but |
| + | soon we were convinced that our simple friends, who had valiantly gone through all the |
| + | skeletons of Karakorum, had become saddened in Khotan, not without cause. |
| + | |
| + | The strangest symptoms began. Not only did they not want to give us a suitable house, |
| + | but they assured us that we would have to live at the bazaar where it would be more |
| + | convenient for the Taotai to |
| + | |
| + | watch |
| + | |
| + | us. When we ourselves made an effort to find a suitable house in the outskirts, there |
| + | was a mass of obstacles which we had to overcome fearlessly ourselves. Our well-wisher, |
| + | Kudai Berdi Bai, and the Afghanistan Aksakal helped us greatly to procure the house, but |
| + | the Amban permitted us to make an agreement only |
| + | |
| + | for one month. |
| + | |
| + | He signified through this that we were undesirable tenants, yet neither would he permit |
| + | us to leave. The permission to sketch was |
| + | |
| + | not |
| + | |
| + | given. A repulsive Bek was stationed to watch us. Finally there came a new Amban and the |
| + | affair became still more complicated. |
| + | |
| + | The Taotai’s child became ill. They asked E.I. to come and help. The cure was successful |
| + | and all three officials came seemingly to thank us. But their conduct was outrageous. |
| + | They laughed, gesticulated, spat and said that our passport was altogether |
| + | |
| + | unauthentic. |
| + | |
| + | They proposed to insult Mr. Cheng-lo (the Chinese Ambassador in Paris) for giving out |
| + | such a passport. Everything, verily, assumed ugly proportions. But these were |
| + | flowers—the berries appeared the next day. |
| + | |
| + | The Amban came and said that a telegram had been received from Urumchi, from the |
| + | governor of the province, with the demand to expel our Expedition, and precisely through |
| + | Sanju. This meant a return through a path closed by snow in winter. |
| + | |
| + | Of course we were already accustomed to the hypocrisy of the officials of Khotan, and we |
| + | did not doubt that there was no telegram and that the whole story was a fraud. |
| + | “However,” added the tempestuous Amban, “if you will personally ask Mr. Taotai maybe he |
| + | will show some clemency.” One should note that the officials did not permit any of our |
| + | telegrams to pass, and we had to search for an opportunity to send telegrams to New |
| + | York, Peking and Paris, by roundabout ways through the consulate in Kashgar. Besides |
| + | this, the Amban pointed out that the officials had the complete right to take away all |
| + | my artist’s equipment. |
| + | |
| + | The next day the Taotai changed his anger into clemency. And |
| + | |
| + | on account |
| + | |
| + | of the cure of his son by E.I., he notified us that he would not expel us by way of |
| + | Sanju. But his clemency, because of the cure of his son, quickly evaporated and the |
| + | officials threatened to search our house. Finally on December 29th the search took |
| + | place. Our arms, three guns and three revolvers, were sealed and taken away. They said |
| + | that in Kashgar we might receive them back. The permits from the British officials to |
| + | carry arms were not even taken into consideration. When the enormous case was brought |
| + | into the room for the packing of the arms, even the Chinese stepped back, murmuring “a |
| + | coffin.” E.I. added “This is the coffin of such type of officials.” It would seem that |
| + | the inventions of oppression were already exhausted, but ignorance prompted one more |
| + | “game.” They notified us that our American papers did not interest officials and |
| + | demanded pre-war passports. With this, the “wise” officials of Republican China demanded |
| + | nothing less than the old imperial passports. Quite accidentally we had with us an old |
| + | passport and the Certificate of the Swedish Order of the Northern Star. The “buffalos” |
| + | copied this and the other one, and pretended to send it somewhere. |
| + | |
| + | The demand for a pre-war passport after nine years of Chinese revolution showed us that |
| + | the officials of Khotan are not only ill-qualified, but that they are limitlessly |
| + | ignorant; and to remain here would be even dangerous. We plan to go immediately to |
| + | Kashgar and Urumchi in order to find a more sensible administration. My dear friends, if |
| + | you want to try out your cold-bloodedness and patience, go to the city of Khotan. Here |
| + | Taotai Ma, and Amban Chang Fu, will teach you with all their medieval resourcefulness. |
| + | Before our departure, we heard a rumor in the bazaar that serious trouble was brewing |
| + | for the Taotai. It is rumored that he received the position of the Taotai and the star |
| + | from the governor of the province, for the murder which he himself executed of the |
| + | military governor of Kashgar last year; however, it is revealed that the murder was |
| + | accomplished not by him alone but also by the soldiers. Now one may believe that all |
| + | murderers must become Taotais. |
| + | |
| + | The details of the murder are medieval. The captured man was crucified and after two |
| + | days of crucifixion the present commander of Khotan shot at him at such close range that |
| + | the blood spurted upon the victor. At the same time his soldiers were also shooting with |
| + | him. |
| + | |
| + | I am writing with sorrow for the Chinese. I can imagine how the best Chinese will blush |
| + | for such contemporaries! Let us recall the tales of Sven Hedin, how Chinese officials |
| + | searched his trunks for Russian soldiers; how Filchner gave his signed waiver to the |
| + | Amban that he had no claims against them for robbery; how badly Prjevalsky fared in |
| + | Khotan; how Kosloff was forced to enter the court of the Amban with twenty Cossacks to |
| + | quell the lawlessness. It is sad to realize and to see that the new order of the state |
| + | has not yet changed its gloomy medievalism. Let the Amban get along without the aid of a |
| + | handkerchief for his nose—that is not important. But let the Amban at least know |
| + | something. |
| + | |
| + | During the search of our things, the Amban recalled several times that the Russians at |
| + | the frontier of Manchuria |
| + | |
| + | broke his teapot; |
| + | |
| + | all his petty rancor revealed itself in this information. And another very heinous crime |
| + | did the Russians do; think only, they vaccinated the wife of the Taotai from Aksu!—This |
| + | felony is related with rancor. During the search of our things, E.I. indignantly said to |
| + | the Amban, who ordered that the yakhtan containing her own things be opened: “Look, |
| + | Amban, there is my corset.” And so the wife of the Taotai from Aksu was avenged! Our |
| + | Chinaman is indignant and shocked. While he, a Chinese officer and diplomat, with a |
| + | literary reputation, stood by, they usurped and carried away our arms! They deprived the |
| + | Expedition of its means of defense. He says: “This is the work of robbers.” Local |
| + | Moslems come, advise and warn and try to show sympathy. One can imagine what these |
| + | quiet, cowed people, who have lost their identities, have to bear. One can imagine how |
| + | much the Chinese intellectuals, students and youths have to stand, they who are so |
| + | sensitive to the grime of license. |
| + | |
| + | It is necessary to find ways to depart. We must go, in spite of the frost. The camels |
| + | are ready. The old Chinese whispers: “Tell the escorting soldiers, if they have guns, to |
| + | go in front and not in the rear—Chinese shoot from behind.” The banner of the Expedition |
| + | is ready. It will be carried in front. Tzung sewed it; red with yellow and the |
| + | inscription in black: “Lo, an American Art Officer.” |
| + | |
| + | The Amban does not know anything about art. The Bek—of Mongolian descent—instructs him |
| + | politely by means of the following ancient legend: “In olden times in Kucha lived a |
| + | celebrated painter. Once, as a deposit against a loan, he brought his painting |
| + | representing a head of cabbage and a butterfly and asked three thousand |
| + | |
| + | sar |
| + | |
| + | (equivalent to two thousand seven hundred dollars). A boy, who was taking the place of |
| + | the owner, gave him the requested loan. The owner returned. He was indignant that for a |
| + | cabbage and. a butterfly, one should give so much money. He chased away the boy and |
| + | considered the money lost. Winter came and on the appointed day the artist brought the |
| + | money and asked to have the painting back. They took out the painting and the owner, to |
| + | his terror, saw that the butterfly had disappeared from the picture. The artist demanded |
| + | his complete picture as described. The owner was upset. The painter said, ‘So you have |
| + | unjustly thrown out the boy. But now only he can help you.’ The owner called the boy. |
| + | The boy for three days kept the picture near the fire and the butterfly appeared again. |
| + | Then the boy said: ‘You have not appreciated the artist, but he is so perfect that his |
| + | colors have all the qualities of nature. The butterflies appear in the warm summer-time. |
| + | For the winter they disappear. The same happens also in the painting. Only the warmth of |
| + | the fire recalled the butterfly to life in winter as well. So perfect is this painter.’ |
| + | And the owner was ashamed and adopted the boy and made him rich for his wisdom.” So does |
| + | the Bek teach the Amban, but even the Buddha said in the Sutras: “The greatest crime is |
| + | ignorance.” |
| + | |
| + | Among the Moslems, news has spread about the destruction of Damascus. The Moslems are |
| + | indignant. Precisely by harming the sanctuaries and by pillage will this breach be most |
| + | easily defined forever. In Paris they cannot even imagine how quickly through the depths |
| + | of Asia fly bird-messengers. However, the flow of Moslem thought deserves great |
| + | attention. One Moslem asked us why Muntazar, Messiah, Maitreya, all start with the same |
| + | letter M. Is this not the very same |
| + | |
| + | manifestation? |
| + | |
| + | They also asked about Buddhism. They listened very attentively to the statement of |
| + | Buddha being also a man, but being great through his supreme knowledge; of Buddha |
| + | reverencing womankind; of Buddha having himself shown the manifestation of Maitreya. One |
| + | day Kalmucks came from Karashahr. They came to make obeisance before Buddhist objects |
| + | which we possess. Kalmucks know that here Buddha passed going northward. It is |
| + | interesting to notice that Sir Charles Bell in his last book about Tibet points out that |
| + | Buddha might have been of Mongolian descent. Nepal is populated by Mongoloids and the |
| + | tribe of Sakya might have been sprung from them. Then, especially interesting is the |
| + | direction of Buddha northward. All signs, all that remains, must be examined anew. The |
| + | gigantic image of Maitreya, on the rock near Maulbeck, is often mentioned and described. |
| + | It does not occur to one that the whole huge rock ought to be investigated from all |
| + | sides. But when we were already in Khotan quite accidentally we heard about a Chinese |
| + | inscription on the reverse side of the rock. It was an immeasurable pity to have lost |
| + | this possibility; because a Chinese was with us. And then, what could this unexpected |
| + | language have meant? One can expect Sanskrit, Pali, Tibetan and even Mongolian! But why |
| + | did a Chinese hand write upon the rock of Maitreya? Monuments should always be |
| + | approached with an open mind. |
| + | |
| + | The antiques in Khotan are really exhausted. During the two months, outside of two or |
| + | three fragments, and a dozen imitations, nothing was brought to us. And the occupation |
| + | of seeking for treasure has ceased. And the tales breathe of old communications already |
| + | described by Sir Aurel Stein. Yotkan—meaning the site of old Khotan—is really populated |
| + | by peaceful Sarts and covered by Moslem cemeteries. Just as Italian antiquarians often |
| + | refer to the name of Bode, here also now they are continually speaking about Sir John |
| + | Marshall or about Sir Aurel Stein. There have not remained any ancient objects in daily |
| + | use. Life is congealed as happens before a wave of new constructions. |
| + | |
| + | Why, in point of fact, is Khotan considered a commercial center of Chinese Turkestan? We |
| + | do not see the nerve of this commerce. We live on a big road branching to Aksu, Kucha |
| + | and Tun-huang, to the Province Kansu and into the depths of China. But seldom do the |
| + | bells of camels sound. Seldom does one hear the call of the donkeys. By such steps the |
| + | rotations of industry are not being created. The rug industry has deteriorated |
| + | considerably, it is now conventional and without life. Properly speaking the Khotan |
| + | designs have completely degenerated. The jade has disappeared. And another |
| + | characteristic pointed out by ancient authors has disappeared: singing has ceased, and |
| + | has been replaced by fierce screams. In contrast with such singing, that of the Ladakis |
| + | is full of rhythm and freshness. When a people has ceased to sing, it means that they |
| + | are greatly depressed. |
| + | |
| + | It is strange to think that this is the very same Khotan to which Fa-hsien in the fourth |
| + | century of our era dedicated the exalted description: “This country thrives happily. The |
| + | people are rich. They are all Buddhists and find joy in music. There are more than ten |
| + | thousand members of communes and they almost all belong to Mahayana. They all live and |
| + | derive their support from the commune. The villages are spread on big expanses and |
| + | before the door of each house a small pagoda (Suburghan) is raised. They all are very |
| + | hospitable and provide the guests with everything that is necessary. The ruler of the |
| + | country placed us in Gomati, which belongs to Mahayana. At the beating of gongs all |
| + | members of the commune gather for a meal. All sit in harmonious order and keep silence, |
| + | and do not clatter with the dishes. . . . Some of us went on to Kashgar.” . . To what |
| + | extent can reality be changed! The present evidence does not relate contemporary Khotan |
| + | with its past, just as the Appian Way or the Road to Ostia do not lead to the present |
| + | Roman Rome. |
| + | |
| + | It is a pity that Fa-hsien did not travel further than Kashgar in what is now Russian |
| + | Turkestan, because everywhere there and even in Persia are traces of Buddhism, not at |
| + | all discovered yet. And Bokhara is nothing else than |
| + | |
| + | Vihara, |
| + | |
| + | the distorted name of a Buddhist monastery. George successfully discovered this |
| + | philological transformation in Paris and Pelliot absolutely agreed with him. Pamir, |
| + | Afghanistan, Persia—everywhere are traces of those flowerings of culture, when as |
| + | chronicles say: “The art was incomparable, and a work of art and a book were the best |
| + | gifts.” |
| + | |
| + | Tsung had a dream. We three, E.I., George and I, with sabers, slashed Yang-tu-t’u. Tsung |
| + | comes running to tell it and laughs: “A very good dream. Now all the victory will be |
| + | yours, and Tu-t’u will fare badly.” Tzi Han Chen interprets this dream and also smiles |
| + | broadly with pleasure that, if only in a dream, Tu-t’u fared badly. Tsung emphasizes the |
| + | importance of the dream: “If Tu-t’u treats the great guests badly things will fare badly |
| + | with him and he will not live.” So in far-away Khotan is rendered a verdict against |
| + | Tu-t’u in Urumchi: “More than a year he will not live.” We speak to the Sart about this |
| + | decision. He laughs. “You have already replaced Kerim-Bek, evidently the truth will |
| + | assert itself with Tu-t’u.” Although Tu-t’u makes fun of the Peking government he |
| + | himself is sitting in a furnace of hatred. Who will sit in his place? The Khotan robber, |
| + | Ma, or Aksu or the one from Kuldja with his Manchurians? Any enterprising troops can |
| + | easily take Sinkiang. |
| + | |
| + | The pilgrims are passing on their way bringing new messages. In Urga a place for the |
| + | Temple of Shambhala will be set. When the image of Rigden-japo will reach Urga, then |
| + | will flash the first light of the New Era—truth. Then will the true renaissance of |
| + | Mongolia begin. In Kucha, in the bazaars, recently two arriving lamas distributed images |
| + | and a prayer of Shambhala. Here, also, the nuclei of revivified Buddhism have found |
| + | shelter. The celebrated Suburghan near Khotan must be the place of one of the |
| + | manifestations of the New Era. Khotan is the path of Buddha. Burkhan Bulat is near |
| + | Khotan. The magnets of the ways are planted “as truly as under the stone of Ghum lies |
| + | the prophecy about the New Era.” |
| + | |
| + | The Maitreya Series comprises seven parts: 1. “Shambhala Approaches.” 2. “The Steed of |
| + | Happiness.” 3. “The Strongholds of the Walls,” 4. “The Banner of the Future.” 5. “The |
| + | Power of the Caves.” 6. “The Whispers of the Desert.” 7. “Maitreya the Conqueror.” |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/28.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,37 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 28 |
| + | |
| + | Timur Bey is our new caravaneer. Wherever you look, there are some historical names; all |
| + | are Shahs, Sultans, Beys. Even the most insignificant one appropriates to himself the |
| + | title Akhun. He comes to weigh our things. The arrangement of the scale transports one |
| + | into the Neolithic Age. On a beam hangs a stick with some “magic” circles and signs. A |
| + | massive green piece of jade on a little string slides along as a counterbalance for the |
| + | trunk and “the magi” in a round little cap proclaims the number seen by him alone. Truly |
| + | we found such stones with holes from the Neolithic Age and we called |
| + | themgrusily, plumb-lines; but more correctly, these are weights. |
| + | |
| + | We must go eastward and that is why tomorrow we go toward the west! The stops on the way |
| + | to Kashgar are: 1. Zawa; 2. Pialma; 3. Zangu Chuda; 4. Guma bazaar; 5. Cholak; 6. |
| + | Ak-kim; 7. Karghalik; 8. Posgam; 9. Yarkand; 10. Kokrabat; 11. Kizil; 12. Yangi Hissar; |
| + | 13. Yaberchat; 14. Kashgar. |
| + | |
| + | Our friends, the Kalmucks, passed us yesterday on the shortest way to Aksu and |
| + | Karashahr. In the darkness of dawn, past our gates, rang the low-toned bells of their |
| + | camels. They carried rugs from Khotan to Toin Lama. With them they also carried many |
| + | valuable messages which can be appreciated by the Buddhist consciousness. |
| + | |
| + | Again in our caravan there will be three currents: Buddhist, Moslem, Chinese. The last |
| + | one is the weakest. The last invention of Ts’ai Han Chen—the banner of the expedition |
| + | with the big inscription “Lo” (Roerich) which also means “Alarm,” is put on a vivid red |
| + | staff. Ts’ai Hang Chen took our cards to the officials and, as we expected, the rogues, |
| + | Taotai and Amban, assured us that they had |
| + | greatly helped us. |
| + | |
| + | The mafas came for the lama and Ts’ai Han Chen. It |
| + | is evident that these carriages have not changed since the fifteenth century. They would |
| + | be good for any museum. Kudai-Berdi-Bai brought |
| + | a dastarkhan in the shape of roasted mutton and |
| + | pastry. Incidentally, the Chinese colonel also realized that something unfortunate had |
| + | happened. Again loads; again woolly caps; again the ferocious roar of Tumbal. In the |
| + | morning we started on the road. For the last time the little birds of Khotan came flying |
| + | to us. And sheep came. Tumbal, like a black statue, became seemingly transfixed on the |
| + | pile of baggage. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,82 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 29 |
| + | |
| + | Karashahr, in translation, means Black City. The Chinese call Urumchi the Red Temple |
| + | (Hung-Miao-Tzi). |
| + | |
| + | On this expanse are the countries of the Torguts and Khoshuts. Strange is the destiny of |
| + | the Kalmucks. The nation is dispersed in an inexplicable manner. In Chinese Sinkiang, |
| + | the Olets occupy the Iliisk district; the Torguts, Karashahr; the Khoshuts, Dzungaria; |
| + | the Oirots, Mongolia; the Damsok are in Tibet. Besides these there are Kalmuck |
| + | *ulus,* |
| + | scattered in Caucasia, Altai, Semirechye, Astrakhan, along the Don, and near Orenburg. |
| + | Near the holy mountain Sabur stand the remains of the city of the Kalmuck King, Aisha. |
| + | In the scattered |
| + | *yurtas* |
| + | the signs of self-consciousness begin to appear. The prophecies of the forefathers tell |
| + | of the coming dates. |
| + | |
| + | A dispute between a Sart Bey and the Kalmuck. The Sart says provokingly: “You have no |
| + | god.” The Kalmuck answers, calmly: “If a Sart comes among us we feed him and give him |
| + | drink, and we feed his horse and give him provisions on his journey. But if a Kalmuck |
| + | comes to the Sart, he is not given food and his horse remains hungry. Judge for |
| + | yourself, who possesses the essential. The Sarts defile the Buddhist teaching and mock |
| + | the Buddhist images but the Kalmucks say, ‘We revere your inscriptions.’ But you have no |
| + | images because when the first images were bestowed, you were far distant and could not |
| + | perceive them.” |
| + | |
| + | It is difficult to dispute with Buddhists. Those who know the teaching can tell so much |
| + | of the evolution of life; they speak about the messengers from Shambhala who go forth on |
| + | earth, in various guises, for the help of mankind. Unprejudiced, they speak of the new |
| + | social movements, recalling the commands of Gautama himself. But if we eliminate from |
| + | these tales the stylization of language and images we encounter a teaching based on the |
| + | true knowledge of evolution far ahead of its epoch. |
| + | |
| + | S. praises the Kalmucks for the steadfastness of their word: “One does not need written |
| + | agreements. It is not as with the Sarts, especially the beks and beys.” |
| + | |
| + | We encounter a few beautiful Karashahr horses. This is the identical breed which one |
| + | sees on ancient miniatures and on the statuettes of old China. Some scientists |
| + | considered this breed extinct. But here it is before us, vigorous, dark-bay, firm in |
| + | gait. It would be good for other countries to examine this breed. |
| + | |
| + | Tomorrow we will go to the encampment of the Kalmuck Khan. |
| + | |
| + | Hardly has evening fallen before a new Sinkiang villainy occurs. S. arrives in great |
| + | excitement and says that the Amban will not permit us to go by the short road and orders |
| + | us to continue our route through the sands and heat of Toksun, the long and wearisome |
| + | highway. An added insult, an added imposition, an added derision of the artist and the |
| + | man. Is it possible that we cannot see the monasteries? Is it possible that an artist |
| + | must go only by way of the dry sands We hurry to the Taotai. The old man pretends to be |
| + | indisposed and cannot receive us. His secretary shouts from the balcony that we can go, |
| + | that the Amban will arrange all that is necessary. We go to the Amban. He is not at |
| + | home. His secretary says that the Amban “fears for us on account of the great snows on |
| + | the mountain pass.” We explain that there is now no longer any snow, that we do not have |
| + | to go by way of high Teke-davan, that we will go through Sumun-davan, which is lower. |
| + | |
| + | At seven o’clock they promise to bring us the answer. Of course the snow of the Amban is |
| + | by no means of a white color. These Chinese are capable of ruining each day. These |
| + | Chinese are capable of transforming each day into a prison and a torture. We await the |
| + | evening and nevertheless prepare to depart. There come Torguts, returning from Kobdo. |
| + | |
| + | A Khoshut lama comes. He asks us to heal his eyes. He brings us valuable tales. Not |
| + | fairy tales but facts. Facts are needed. The lama from Uliasutai has written a book |
| + | about the approach of the time of Shambhala. |
| + | |
| + | In the evening the answer comes. The nephew of the Taotai and the postmaster bring it. |
| + | Of course the answer is negative. In spite of the heat, of the humidity and dust, we |
| + | must go by the long way, through hot Toksun. E.I. says she will die from the heat, but |
| + | the Chinese smile and notify us that their Governor has a very small heart. We compose |
| + | this telegram to the Governor-General: |
| + | |
| + | *Please wire instructions to the Magistrate at Karashahr to allow Roerich Expedition to |
| + | proceed to Urumchi by mountain way. Health of Mrs. Roerich does not allow her to |
| + | continue journey through the hot sandy desert of the long road. The mountain road |
| + | permits to reach Urumchi much sooner.* |
| + | |
| + | Until the arrival of an answer we shall go to the encampment of the Torgut Khan and the |
| + | monastery Sharasüme. |
| + | |
| + | The sense of surveillance and compulsion is abominable. What work can be accomplished |
| + | when behind one’s back stands the order of the Amban and when the Governor-General has a |
| + | “very small heart”? One’s whole mood is spoiled and we are waiting again as though in |
| + | some medieval Chinese dungeon. |
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| /dev/null .. en/books/1/30.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,420 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 30 |
| + | |
| + | Across the entire heaven shone a rainbow. And not one, but two. And through the |
| + | rainbow-gate rushed the broad Ob: The great Ob—birthplace of the wife and serpent. |
| + | |
| + | The Shambatyon River rolls along rapids and stones. Who will brave it? On its other |
| + | shore live the people of M. M., the most sacred letter of the alphabet, conceals the |
| + | name of the coming one. The Kabala recalls the Shambatyon. |
| + | Katun rolls along |
| + | stones—a true Katun. And as yet, the city has not been built on the new site. |
| + | |
| + | Katun in Turki means woman. |
| + | |
| + | “The Dodecahedron, significant of the feminine Origin, is being indicated in scientific |
| + | terms which are connected with the dates of evolution. . . .” |
| + | |
| + | “On Katun and on the Bia, brother will rise against brother. There will be great |
| + | slaughter and then there will begin a new life….” |
| + | |
| + | And still others come and speak concerning the same year of Twenty-eight. The sun spots |
| + | condense as at present only every seventy-seven years. And then finally comes the most |
| + | inspired person and he also talks about the same year. What a wonder! One, through |
| + | astronomy; the other, through astrology; the third, through writings; the fourth, |
| + | through numerology; and all are concerned with the same thing. What a wonder! If one |
| + | adds twenty-five to 1911 one gets the same result—the year 1936. |
| + | |
| + | Stone—wondrous stone. The stone of Tigeretz. And simply—stone. The entire district is |
| + | all stone! |
| + | |
| + | Elen-Chadir, Tourak, Kuegan, Karagai, Ak-kem, Yasatar, Ekonur, Chegan, Arasan, Urul, |
| + | Kuraghan, Alahoi, Jharhash, Ongudai, Eloman, Turgunda, Argut, Karaghem, Archat, Jhaldur, |
| + | Chingistai, Ak-Ulgun, Hamsar. |
| + | |
| + | All these are names; these names of rivulets, habitations and town sites sound like a |
| + | chanting tune, like a harmonious peal. So many nations have brought their finest |
| + | harmonies and dreams. The tread of tribes went and is returning. |
| + | |
| + | Near Black Anui on Karagol there are caves. The depths and distances are not known. |
| + | There are bones and inscriptions. |
| + | |
| + | And when we crossed Edigol the broadness of Altai spread before us. It blossomed in all |
| + | interblending green and blue shades. It became white with distant snow. The grass and |
| + | the flowers stood the height of a man on horseback. One cannot even locate the horses in |
| + | it. Nowhere have we seen such grassy vesture. |
| + | |
| + | An Altaian overtook us. Timorously he peered at us. What kind of new foreigners had come |
| + | to his country? He brandished his whip and disappeared in the resounding grasses—blue, |
| + | gold and purple. The resemblance between the North American Indians and the Mongols is |
| + | striking. |
| + | |
| + | About the good Oirot all know. Also they know the favorite Altaian name—Nicholai. |
| + | |
| + | Beyond Yalui begin the Altaian *Ails.* The peaked *yurtas* covered with |
| + | the bark of the larch tree are darkened. The site for Kamlayne is seen. Here they do not |
| + | say Shaman but Kam. Toward Anui and Ulala there are still Kams who “conjure forth snow |
| + | and serpents.” But toward the south, Shamanism has been replaced by the teaching about |
| + | the White Burkhan and his friend, Oirot. Sacrifices have been abolished, being replaced |
| + | by the burning of aromatic heather and by harmonious singing. They expect the beginning |
| + | of the new era soon. It was a woman—a young Altaian—who sensed the new steps of the |
| + | world and safeguarded the first austere law. |
| + | |
| + | The road, washed away by rains, exhausted the horses. We stopped in Kurlyk. We shall |
| + | have to sit through the night. But it is no hardship to spend the night in a place where |
| + | the teaching of the White Burkhan and his benevolent friend Oirot were born. The name of |
| + | Oirot has been accepted by a whole district. Here, verily, they expect the coming of the |
| + | White Burkhan. In the cliffs towering over Kurlyk, the entrances of the caves loom dark. |
| + | These caves penetrate deeply: their depth has not been ascertained. There are also |
| + | secret passages—from Tibet, through Kunlun, through Altyntag, through Turfan; the Long |
| + | Ear knows of secret passages. How many people have saved themselves in these passages |
| + | and caves! Reality has become a fairy tale. Just as the black aconite of the Himalaya |
| + | has become the Fire-Blossom. |
| + | |
| + | When the white birch grew in our land, the White Tsar came and conquered our country. |
| + | And the Tchud did not wish to remain under the White Tsar and went under the ground. And |
| + | they covered themselves with stones”—“On the Ouimon they show you the Tchud graves |
| + | covered with stones”—“On this spot the underground Tchud departed.” The migration of the |
| + | nations has been imprinted there. |
| + | |
| + | Belovodye! The grandfather of Atamanoff and the father of Ognieff went in search of |
| + | Belovodye: “Over the Kokushy Mountains. Through Bogogorshe. Over Ergor—by a special |
| + | path. Whoever does not know the path will perish in the lakes or on the hungry steppe. |
| + | It has happened also that the people from Belovodye have come out on horseback through |
| + | special passages over Ergor. And also long ago it happened that a woman from Belovodye |
| + | came out. High of stature, thin of figure, with face darker than ours. She was clad in a |
| + | long skirt, a kind of sarafan. There are special dates for everything.” |
| + | |
| + | From the south and from the north, from the east and from the west, they are thinking of |
| + | the same things. And the same evolutionary process is being impressed upon the best |
| + | images. A center between the four oceans exists. Consciousness of the new world exists. |
| + | Will the subterranean Tchud not return? Do not the Agharti, the subterranean people, |
| + | saddle their horses? Does not the bell of Belovodye ring out? Does not the horseman ride |
| + | over Ergor? On the ridges—on the Dalnyi and on the Studenyi, the peaks are aflame. |
| + | |
| + | “In 1923 Sokoliha with the people of Bukhtarma went to search for Belovodye. Not one of |
| + | them returned. But recently there came letters from Sokoliha. She writes that she did |
| + | not reach Belovodye but she lives well. Where she lives, she does not write. All know of |
| + | Belovodye.” |
| + | |
| + | “Since when originated the news about Belovodye?” |
| + | |
| + | “The message came from the Kalmucks and the Mongols; originally they told our |
| + | forefathers who lived according to the old belief and devotion.” |
| + | |
| + | Which means that at the base of information about Belovodye lies a communication from |
| + | the Buddhist world. The same center of teaching of life is interpreted by the Old |
| + | Believers. The way between the Argun , and Irtysh leads on to the same Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | They write about the magnetic storms and the unusual temperature and about various |
| + | natural phenomena due to condensation of the sun spots. Next year the effect of the |
| + | spots will be still more significant. Unusual northern lights are possible. There may be |
| + | shocks of the nervous system. How many legends are connected with sun spots, those |
| + | menacing wrinkles of the luminary. |
| + | |
| + | Ramsana left for Ladak. He could not stand the low places of the north. “Either I leave |
| + | or die” Of course, Ladakis pass their whole lives on heights not lower than - twelve |
| + | thousand feet. It is a pity for Ramsana. One can confidently depend on Ladakis to watch |
| + | things. The Oirot drivers are not like the Ladakis. |
| + | |
| + | Vakhramey counts the number of wagons and agricultural machines. The Old Believer’s |
| + | heart has assimilated the machines. Sanely he estimates the industry of Germany and |
| + | America. Sooner or later they will certainly work with America. The people remember the |
| + | Americans. They value the frank character of the Americans and are aware of the common |
| + | traits. “Come to work with us!” they call to the Americans. This friendly call has |
| + | penetrated throughout all Asia. |
| + | |
| + | After discussing industry, Vakhramey begins to murmur, chantingly, some tale; I catch: |
| + | “And receive me, thou most peaceful desert. . . . And how shall I receive thee? I, the |
| + | desert, possess neither mansions nor palaces in me.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | It is familiar to me: the tale about Jasaf. “Dost thou know, Vakhramey, about whom thou |
| + | singest? Thou singest about Buddha. Because the *Bodhisatv* has been transformed |
| + | into Jasaf.” |
| + | |
| + | So Buddha merged into the Kerjak consciousness. The plowed fields led them to the |
| + | machines and cooperation to Belovodye. |
| + | |
| + | But Vakhramey is not only versed in the cooperative movement and in canticles. According |
| + | to the covenant of the wise ones, he is not astonished at anything; he knows the ores |
| + | and the deer; he knows the little bees and especially the secret traditions. He knows |
| + | the herbs and the flowers. This is indisputable. And not only does he know how and where |
| + | the flowers grow, and where the roots are hidden, but he loves them and delights in |
| + | them. Gathering a great bunch of vari-colored grasses, that reach up to his gray beard, |
| + | his face lights up. And he pets them. And caressingly he speaks of their usefulness. |
| + | Here is verily Panteleon the Healer. It is not dark witchery but knowledge drawn from |
| + | experience. Greetings, Vakhramey Semeonich! For thee, on Himalaya, does the Fire-Blossom |
| + | grow! |
| + | |
| + | And here is Vakhramey’s sister, Aunt Elena. She is both a healer and a painter of |
| + | verdure and a skillful writer. She also knows herbs and flowers. She can decorate any |
| + | kind of casement with ochre and madder-lake and red-lead. On the doors and casements, |
| + | she can paint all types of grass designs. Or she will adorn them with bright little |
| + | birds and a ferocious yellow lion as a guard. No important letter in the village can be |
| + | written without her . . . “And to whom art thou writing?—to thy son? Let me tell thee |
| + | how to write”—And a long, compassionate, heartfelt epistle, full of poetic spirit, would |
| + | flow forth. Such a capable woman! |
| + | |
| + | “With the people of Bukhtarma we do not wish to associate! You see, they appeared as |
| + | comrades but really came to rob, and the most characteristic thing was their ancient |
| + | sarafan. . . . And so now they are called ‘Sarafaniki.’ Now, of course, they have |
| + | reformed. If you meet one—he turns away his face, because he still is human and feels |
| + | ashamed. . . . Now we ought to have real American machines. It is time to free the |
| + | horses.” ... |
| + | |
| + | Again one sees a striving toward vigilant cooperation. And new herds are fattening on |
| + | the high ridges. And from the Studenyi summit one can see best Beluha itself—of whom |
| + | even the deserts whisper. |
| + | |
| + | Everything bears the traces of the civil war. Here on the highway, a Red regiment was |
| + | destroyed by ambush. Here in the Katun they drowned the Whites. On the mountain ridge |
| + | are lying the red Commissars. And under Katanda, the Kerjak psalmist, an old believer, |
| + | was hacked with sabers. Many graves on the roads; and near them grows thick new grass. |
| + | |
| + | As birds on the branches, so from mouth to mouth flit words forgotten and not recognized |
| + | by any one. The inhabitants in Trans-Baikal calls a spider *misguir.* And a guest |
| + | merchant is called *misguir*—according to the Siberian interpretation, simply a |
| + | spider. What kind of Turki idiom helped here? Wind, in the language of the people in |
| + | Trans-Baikal, is *hiyus*—this is completely beyond understanding. The root is |
| + | neither Mongolian nor Yakut. |
| + | |
| + | On the *taiga* toward Kousnetzk they eat fitches and marmots. This is dangerous |
| + | because marmots bring on the bubonic plague. They say that the infection disappears from |
| + | the fur under the influence of sun rays. But who can ascertain when the rays have effect |
| + | and how much? Whence came the famous Spanish influenza, so similar in form to the |
| + | bubonic plague? Is it not from furs? Mongolia is often the breeding place for epidemics. |
| + | And the cattle plague is also very common. One gets used to everything. In Lahore, in |
| + | Srinagar, in Baramula, cholera was raging when we were there. In Khotan there was small |
| + | pox; in Kashgar, scarlet fever. One gets used to anything. |
| + | |
| + | Oirot horses are sturdy, as are also the horses from Kuldja and Olet. The Karashahr race |
| + | horses and Badakhshans are not sturdy and are less adaptable for the mountains. |
| + | |
| + | The Mongols and Buriats are anxious to see various countries. They want to visit Germany |
| + | and France. They love America and Germany. The need of broadening one’s horizon is |
| + | demonstrated by them in an ancient parable of a frog and a turtle: The frog lived in a |
| + | well and the turtle in the ocean. But the turtle came to the frog and told him of the |
| + | vastness of the ocean. . . . “In your opinion is the ocean twice as large as my well?” . |
| + | . . “Much larger,” answered the turtle. “Wouldst thou say three times as large as my |
| + | well?” . . . “Much larger.” . . . “And four times as large?” . . . “Much larger” . . . |
| + | Then the frog chased away the turtle as a boaster and a liar. . . . |
| + | |
| + | The Popovtsi, the Bezpopovtsi, the Striguni, the Priguni, the Pomortsi, the Netovtsi |
| + | (not recognizing anything, but considering themselves “of the old faith”) afford many |
| + | incomprehensible discussions. And toward Trans-Baikal among the Semeiski (Old Believers |
| + | exiled to Siberia with their entire families), also are added the Temnovertsi, and the |
| + | Kalashniki. Each one of the Temnovertsi has his own ikon closed with little doors, to |
| + | which he alone prays. If someone else should pray to the same ikon, it would become |
| + | unfit! Still more strange—the Kalashniki. They pray before the ikon through a little |
| + | opening in a *k**alach* (a loaf of bread). We have heard much, but such |
| + | obscure beliefs we have never seen nor heard of—and in the summer of 1926! Here are also |
| + | Hlysti, Pashkovtzi, Stundisti and Molokans. Among the green and blue hills, among the |
| + | *taiga* thickets, one cannot perceive all curves. Glancing at the beard and low |
| + | fillet, one cannot judge what the heavy-garbed man whom we encounter is carrying with |
| + | him. |
| + | |
| + | Ust Kan is the last telegraph station. From there we sent the first telegram ever sent |
| + | to America. The telegraph operator was upset. He offered to send it by mail to Biisk. He |
| + | had never dealt with such a fearful animal as America! But we insisted. And he promised |
| + | to send it after consulting Biisk. |
| + | |
| + | It is planned to extend the railroad line to Katanda, in two stages from Beluha. Up to |
| + | Katanda, even in pre-war times a railroad line from Barnaul was planned—connecting the |
| + | heart of Altai with Semipalatinsk and Novosibirsk. They say that even *then* the |
| + | engineers went through this line. “Yes? When, ‘then’?” . . . “Yes, it is known before |
| + | the war.” . . . The mysterious “then” becomes synonymous with the “pre-war epoch.” From |
| + | Peking one can go on a “Dodge” up to Urumchi itself, which means also up to Kuldja, up |
| + | to Chuguchak, up to Semipalatinsk. Life forges a vital web of communication. |
| + | |
| + | Tales creep in from Kobdo. Every one is interested in conveying to us at least something |
| + | of unknown Mongolia, of the land of magnetic storms, mirages of the sun, and cruciform |
| + | moons. Every one wants to know about Mongolia. . . . Everything is strange. They tell of |
| + | a sentinel who was eaten by dogs. He hacked seven of them, but could not save himself |
| + | from the pack. A Mongolian commander in Uliasutai ate a human heart. There are some who |
| + | say it was a Russian and some who think it was a Chinese. On the Iro and toward Urianhai |
| + | there is much gold. Also on the Iro a strange boy who pronounced some prophecy was born |
| + | to a Shaman woman. They whisper about the reincarnation of the Mongolian Bogdo Gegen. |
| + | And others say that another unusual being was also born in China. But authorities do not |
| + | recognize either the one or the other: Bogdo Gegen was never reborn either as Mongolian |
| + | or Chinese, but always in Tibet. On the way from Uliasutai to Kobdo some wild people in |
| + | furs jumped out and threw stones at the machine. They were so-called Guards! On the way |
| + | to Manchuria from a cliff “mineral oil” flows into the desert. There also exist such |
| + | magnetic places that even an automobile slows up. |
| + | |
| + | Thus at the cross-road are woven complicated carpets of Asiatic design. And how can they |
| + | exist without news? In this case, it would not be worthwhile to go to a far-off |
| + | *ail* and to drink tea with a strong essence of tales. Mongolia attracts |
| + | attention. |
| + | |
| + | “Blacksmiths of Kurumchi”—strange incomprehensible people, who not only passed but also |
| + | lived within the boundaries of Altai and Trans-Baikal. The generally accepted divisions |
| + | of Huns, Alans and Goths are divided into manifold unaccountable subdivisions. To such |
| + | an extent is everything obscured that coins with exact dates are sometimes attributed to |
| + | completely non-correlating, temporarily established periods. Stagstones, Kereksuri, |
| + | stone figures; walls of nameless cities—although all have been written about and |
| + | counted, yet the paths of the peoples have not been clarified. How remarkable are the |
| + | textures from the last Hun’s graves which completed the famous Siberian antiquities! |
| + | |
| + | There exists a legend about a Black Stone, which appears at the dates of great events. |
| + | If you compare all the verbal dates of India, Tibet, Egypt and Mongolia, then their |
| + | coincidence will remind you that apart from the record of historians, there is being set |
| + | down another history of the world. It is especially significant to compare the testimony |
| + | of completely unrelated nationalities. |
| + | |
| + | The Kalmucks and Mongols recognize from traces left by horses and camels, the origin and |
| + | the quantity of the cargo. They will say: “A horseman passed here, leading two horses. |
| + | Two horses are worn out and the third one is fresh.” Or “A herd of horses passed by and |
| + | with the herd are two horsemen.” . . . |
| + | |
| + | Different occurrences from the recent wars were related to us. One horseman volunteered |
| + | to force the surrender of a whole regiment. He took his comrade and a big drove of |
| + | horses. “More,” he said, “is not needed.” He drove the horses in the direction of the |
| + | wind and he himself went with his comrade to negotiate. He demanded, “Surrender your |
| + | arms at once, otherwise I will lead my whole army upon you.” They reflected, perceiving |
| + | the pillars of dust from the drove; then they surrendered the army. And the audacious |
| + | fellow commanded his comrade to go in advance and lead back the troop. Thus he forced a |
| + | whole regiment to surrender. This is not a fairy tale of Jengis-Khan. It is a recent |
| + | event. |
| + | |
| + | Rumors even outride the motors—they will go on horseback for two hundred miles to drink |
| + | tea. |
| + | |
| + | Again they report: “It is rumored that you were lost.” Is it possible that for a second |
| + | time they will bury one? Whence is this unquenchable desire for slander and false |
| + | inventions? They say that many imitations of my paintings are circulating. They tell |
| + | amusing stories and even mention several men who in this way, using my name, earned |
| + | money. They say that V. and R. worked that way. I had a chance to see a few imitations |
| + | before the war. I remember one very large painting not uncleverly composed from |
| + | fragments of various of my works. The poor collector who called me to approve his |
| + | purchase, was immeasurably grieved. Friends, they may bring such imitations to you to |
| + | the Museum. Look, beware! So often it happened that we saw paintings as well as whole |
| + | albums falsely signed. I remember one painting by Rustschitz signed with my name. |
| + | |
| + | They speak about the destruction of many of my paintings—“Call of the Serpent” is lost |
| + | from the Academy. “The March,” “Unkrada,” “Building of the Walls,” “Sviatogor” and |
| + | others are lost. Of course they consider them lost—but who knows? The paths of objects |
| + | are so unexpected. Collecting Old Masters, we came across such subtle play of life. |
| + | |
| + | A woman traveler, a painter, visits us. A geological expedition comes. A conversation |
| + | about artists: Juon, Mashkov, Kanchalovsky, Lentulof, Saryan, Kustodief hold their |
| + | ground.... Benois is shaky. Dobujhinsky went to Lithuania. They do not mention Somof. |
| + | They do not know that Bakst has died. The young ones are growing. Stchuseff and Stchuko |
| + | go forward boldly. The woman painter walks about, sketches old corners, gates, window |
| + | casements, various beams and the little horses on cornices, as though making an |
| + | inventory before a distant journey. The various tiny horses will depart from the roofs. |
| + | Let them depart, as well as the pattern of the chintzes. But with what will they be |
| + | replaced? The “Viennese” chair and the fading calico do not bring in culture. Here is a |
| + | task for the young: Give an image of the future life. From factory whistles and from the |
| + | peal of bells someone has synchronized a symphony; though as yet it is unsuccessful, the |
| + | whole conception is truly resonant. And thus for the building of a house an alert hand |
| + | is necessary and dispassionate labor. Here Ikon painters from Mastersky, Palehovsky and |
| + | Holuisky lent the work new importance. |
| + | |
| + | In the East, they apply the externalization of sensitiveness not only to separate |
| + | individuals but also to groups and seemingly to whole districts. The result is a |
| + | tremendous experiment in the application of psychic energy. And all this is being done |
| + | silently and anonymously. |
| + | |
| + | Behold and be surprised: books, paintings, songs, dances and buildings—all these are |
| + | sent out upon the waves of the world anonymously. Books are attributed, according to |
| + | tradition, to a certain author, but he himself does not put his name upon the |
| + | manuscript. Paintings are not signed; the name of the architect of Potala is not |
| + | inscribed. On faience, on ceramics, on metal art crafts one can sometimes see the |
| + | trade-mark but not the name. And in this fundamental anonymity the East has left the |
| + | West far behind. One must learn from the East, but for that one must absorb the |
| + | psychology of the East. The East does not love false visitors; the East easily discerns |
| + | masquerading imitations. And the East will never forget its decision. The judgment of |
| + | the East is rendered at the very first moment. All the patches of corrections only serve |
| + | to intensify the clownishness of the imitative attire. |
| + | |
| + | The discovery of Theremin: “We saw on the screen the motion of human hands which took |
| + | place at the same time behind the wall in the next room.” At last the “miraculous” |
| + | becomes “scientific.” Finally, one begins to turn to the real study of all of the |
| + | properties of energy. |
| + | |
| + | Just when we did not ask; just when we did not expect, he himself spoke and demonstrated |
| + | his knowledge of special places. Our simpletons would have considered this a fairy tale |
| + | or an unusual revelation; yet here he smilingly closed his yellow khalat and proved his |
| + | knowledge of certain ones and where they live. “And with that place, now for fifteen |
| + | years there have been no communications.” |
| + | |
| + | To the Tashi Lama in Peking came a group of Chinese asking for passports for the passage |
| + | to Shambhala. This reminded us of the letter which was written from Boston to Shambhala. |
| + | Whence and how has this Chinese group come together? Were they attracted by the |
| + | wanderings of Lao-Tzin? Or because of older writings? Or by the book of the Abbot of |
| + | Wu-t’ai-shan. Some time ago one would have ridiculed that fact but now a great deal has |
| + | occurred. The literature has become so enriched that the recent invention and “magic” |
| + | have passed into the laboratory of research. And the skeptics are indignant, but only |
| + | because of their complete ignorance and unenlightenment. Even the most obtuse thinkers |
| + | ask “What does it mean?” One may speak about the significance of that which happens but |
| + | the fact itself by now does not remain unobserved. |
| + | |
| + | They tell of the experiment of Manouilof, who has made researches into the sex of plants |
| + | and minerals and also into the masculine and feminine origin of human blood. Experiment |
| + | with the mineral “pyrite” gives a result long since indicated by the science of the |
| + | East: “Pyrite produces crystals of two kinds—one a kind of cube and the other a form of |
| + | dodecahedron. If the very same reaction is poured into the test tube with cubic |
| + | crystals—one will get a discoloration of fluid—the masculine reaction. And if the same |
| + | be performed with the dodecahedron crystals, a purple color results—the feminine |
| + | reaction.” For the West this discovery is new but the ancient formulae of the East speak |
| + | of the dodecahedron as the Mother of the World—the feminine beginning. They also point |
| + | out about the purple physical feminine emanation. You can imagine with what calm smile |
| + | the scientist of the East listens to the “new” discoveries of the West. “Hemoglobin in |
| + | the blood of animals and chlorophyle in the juice of plants are similar in their |
| + | nature.” And the scientist of the East nods, as a sign of an age-long assent. |
| + | |
| + | Know! Know without fear and in the entire measure. |
| + | |
| + | When at last will people walk out of the foggy twilight of “mysticism,” to the study of |
| + | sunlit reality? When will the darkness of the cave transform itself into the radiance of |
| + | space? |
| + | |
| + | The horns of the deer and the jet of Kabarga up to now are regarded as precious wares. |
| + | One must make research into the healing qualities of the powdered horn of the deer. The |
| + | spring blood which fills these woolly horns of course is permeated with a strong |
| + | excretion. What is the difference between the musk of the Tibetan ram and the musk of |
| + | Altaian Kabarga? The Kabarga feeds upon the nettle of the cedar and the larch. Altaians |
| + | chew the gum of fir tree tar. All the properties of musk must be investigated. |
| + | |
| + | We are stopping in the former chapel of the Old Believers. On the walls are still seen |
| + | the four corners of the former ikons. In the next room a red chalice is painted on the |
| + | wall. Wherefore? At the gates sits a white dog. He came with us. Whence? |
| + | |
| + | The White Burkhan, of course, is also the Blessed Buddha. In the region of Ak-Kem are |
| + | traces of radio-activity. The water in Ak-Kem is milky white. Pure Belovodye. Through |
| + | Ak-Kem the fiftieth latitude passes. We recall the conclusion of Csoma de Koros. |
| + | |
| + | About two o’clock in the night, on the second of August, east of the village Altaiskoye, |
| + | a large, powerfully luminous meteorite fell. To the south of Verkhiniouimon, last year, |
| + | on the summit of the ridges, stones and sand were erupted as if by an explosion. A pit |
| + | was formed. |
| + | |
| + | “Unspilled Chalice”—the most blue, the most reverberant mountains. Purity itself as in |
| + | Phalut. And he carries from the mountains his chalice. |
| + | |
| + | “The Blacksmith forges the fate of humanity, on the Siver Mountains.” The grave of |
| + | Sviatogor is on Siver Mountain. The Siver Mountains—Sumyr, Subur, Sumbyr, |
| + | Siberian-Sumeru. The exact center from the four oceans. In Altai, on the right bank of |
| + | Katun, there is a mountain. Its significance is being likened to the world-mountain, |
| + | Sumeru. Sayn Galabyn sudur is “the narrative of the Good Era.” |
| + | |
| + | All the trees were charmed against harming Baldur. One mistletoe was forgotten—and the |
| + | arrow from this very mistletoe struck Baldur. All the animals gave blessings for the |
| + | building of the temple in Lhasa, but one, the gray bull, was forgotten and he was the |
| + | one who, in the form of an impious king, rebelled later against the true teaching. |
| + | Nothing that exists can be neglected in the structure. “Even a mouse will gnaw through |
| + | the knots.” |
| + | |
| + | Katun is welcoming. The Blue Mountains are resonant. White is Beluha. The flowers are |
| + | vivid and the green grasses and cedars are calming. Who has said that Altai is cruel and |
| + | unapproachable? Whose heart has become fearful of the austere power and beauty? |
| + | |
| + | On the seventeenth of August we beheld Beluha. It was so clear and reverberant. Verily, |
| + | Zvenigorod! |
| + | |
| + | Beyond Beluha there appears the crests of Kunlun so beloved to the heart, and beyond |
| + | that “the mountain of the Divine Queen” and “Five Treasure Troves of the Snows.” And |
| + | herself, “the Queen of the White Snows,” and all the written and unwritten, the spoken |
| + | and the unspoken. |
| + | |
| + | “Between the Irtysh and Argun. Over Kokushi. Through Bogogorshi, over Ergor itself, |
| + | rides a horseman. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/31.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,382 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 31 |
| + | |
| + | ***Bang!*** |
| + | A shot. The bullet pierced the window. It is good that George had just gone away from |
| + | the window at that very moment. Who shot? Was it intentional, or was it a prank? |
| + | |
| + | We are forewarned: “But you will not depart.” I answer: “We shall depart as always. We |
| + | shall not delay even for one day.” Our Americans arrive. Boris is with them. The doctor |
| + | is annexed. After a long correspondence, N. K. is found. Ludmilla and Raya will go with |
| + | us: the first thirteen-year-old girl traveler into Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan Donyer (Consul) is coming. He brings a Tibetan passport and a letter to the |
| + | Dalai Lama. The Donyer gives such passports to pilgrims. Our knowledge of Buddhism |
| + | entitles us to receive the same attention. |
| + | |
| + | Four Buriat lamas come and ask us to take them with us. They saw the banner of the |
| + | Expedition—the image of Maitreya with Ak-Dorje on top. All the servants have put little |
| + | signs of Ak-dorje upon their caps. And like recruits they walk through Ulan Bator Khoto. |
| + | George put them through a military drill. We bought eight more rifles. Everybody is |
| + | amused by a Lewis machine gun standing in the dining room. Let them know that we have |
| + | enough arms! |
| + | |
| + | Coincident with our maneuvers, a Mongolian detachment was practicing to storm the |
| + | stronghold. And on the other side our convoy went through the same maneuvers. You can |
| + | imagine how completely confounded were both parties when they confronted each other! |
| + | |
| + | “The Ruler of Shambhala.” |
| + | This painting coincides unexpectedly with the prophecy of the Lama. “The Great Rider |
| + | appeared and the heads of all people were turned towards the west, but the hand of the |
| + | Rider turned all peoples toward the East.” |
| + | |
| + | A representative from the Mongolian government comes and begs us to make a design for |
| + | the temple-shrine where the painting “Ruler of Shambhala” will be placed with other |
| + | venerated objects. |
| + | |
| + | The publication of “Foundations of Buddhism,” and “New Era” is being completed. It is |
| + | difficult to give a fine form to the book in a little printer’s shop. The former lama, |
| + | now a lithographer, lovingly redraws for the book “The Conquering Buddha” with the fiery |
| + | sword. Again the messenger from the Government comes. They beg for permission to |
| + | translate “Foundations of Buddhism” into Mongolian. |
| + | |
| + | Much expectation and excitement! Nevertheless, we did not delay our departure. E. P. |
| + | tensely stands at the threshold and says: “I await the solution of Him, who solves all |
| + | things.” And here comes a telegram. G. hustles about; he knows much. One can sometimes |
| + | converse with him about the most sacred legends. It was he also who told us of a |
| + | Mongolian version of the visit of the Teacher to Mongolia. It is strange to have heard |
| + | the beginning of the tale in India and its conclusion in Mongolia. Thus is the entire |
| + | desert encircled by one intense thought. We do not know how Tibet will greet us. If |
| + | Ladak, called “Little Tibet,” is beautiful, then “Great Tibet” must be unusually |
| + | majestic. But often humanity errs in its appraisals and the small “proves to be great.” |
| + | Unprejudiced, without superstition, we shall observe the reality. |
| + | |
| + | Again all sorts of difficulties and expectations. And again unexpected friends. Among |
| + | them the Esperantist. They help us to depart and prove an attentive escort. Like towers, |
| + | are the highly packed automobiles. |
| + | |
| + | There is a fully accredited story that on the river Iro an extraordinary child was born. |
| + | Shortly after his birth he pronounced a prophecy and then became normal. The prophecy |
| + | proved to be the same one about the future Mongolia as was given to us by a lama in |
| + | Sikhim. It is well remembered in Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | The action of will used at a great distance has been remarkably developed in Mongolia. |
| + | Quite recently one young Mongolian lama wrote a book about the path to Shambhala. Books |
| + | about this path written by the Tashi Lama, the Abbot of Wu-t’ai-shan, a Buriat lama, are |
| + | also known. The aspirations of the Mongols all face in this direction. Many other |
| + | neighboring nationalities also understand all the reality of the meaning of Shambhala. |
| + | Some of the Mongolian lamas know a great deal. Whenever we asked them questions, their |
| + | answers showed deep knowledge. But then, it is not so easy to win their confidence in |
| + | spiritual matters. Of the monasteries close to Ulan Bator Khoto, the most far-famed is |
| + | the so-called Manjushri Khit. From it the late Bogdo-Gegen was kidnapped. All places in |
| + | Mongolia are enveloped in legend. |
| + | |
| + | In the camp among the yurtas and the herds, upon the hills of the Gobi, the Mongols of |
| + | our convoy are heard singing a song about Shambhala recently composed by a Mongolian |
| + | hero, Suche Bator: “We march to the holy war of Shambhala. Let us be reborn in the |
| + | sacred land.” . . . And thus, valiantly and resonantly, the Mongols send out their |
| + | hopes. Even in new Mongolia they know the reality of Shambhala. In Ulan Bator Khoto, the |
| + | site for the future Dukang of Shambhala is already fenced around. The Mongols know about |
| + | the arrival of the Ruler of Shambhala to Erdeni Dzo and Narabanchi. They know about the |
| + | great “Guardians.” They know of the great times. They know of the Chalice of Buddha |
| + | which, after it left Peshawar, was preserved in Karashahr and disappeared for a time. |
| + | They know of the coming of the Blessed Ones to Altai. They know the true significance of |
| + | Altai. They know of the White Mountain. They know the sacred signs above the ancient |
| + | Suburgan near Khotan. They know the news from China. Through all the silent spaces of |
| + | Asia is heard the voice of the spirit of the future. They know that the time of Maitreya |
| + | is come. |
| + | |
| + | In the automobiles, crossing the small rivers in the spring and because of the lack of |
| + | roads, we have ten breakdowns a day. If one can traverse seventy miles it is indeed a |
| + | lucky day. Ordinarily, one does not make even twelve miles. Many Kereksurs (old graves), |
| + | Kurgans: traces of great migrations. A remarkable stone figure—they say that here lived |
| + | a notorious bandit and that now he has become a guard of the Path. The travelers smear |
| + | the lips of the statue with grease in order to request a favor. Konchak, our servant, |
| + | stands for long before this image and repeatedly demands that we have a good road. On |
| + | the way, skulls and bones, the corpse of a baby wrapped in a sheepskin coat. Turpans, |
| + | wild geese, all sort of ducks fly toward the north. Herds of kulans. |
| + | |
| + | It is evident that we shall not go far in our automobiles. The road is not marked. The |
| + | local guides themselves confuse the direction. And, for the most part, the automobiles |
| + | are altogether poor. If only we can reach the border, the monastery Yum-Beise. There we |
| + | shall have to take camels. |
| + | |
| + | We hear legends. That which was told us about the visitation by the “Ruler of |
| + | Shambhala” to monasteries in Narabanchi and Erdeni Dzo is confirmed in various |
| + | palaces. |
| + | Yum-Beise is an unpleasant, windy place. The monastery itself is not an inviting one and |
| + | the lamas are not gracious. Beyond and above the monastery, on the mountain, a |
| + | tremendous phallus is erected. . . . |
| + | |
| + | There are endless negotiations concerning the engaging of the caravan. They propose to |
| + | go as far as Chibochen (beyond Anhsi) in three weeks. By the end of April it is not good |
| + | for camels; by that time it is hot, the camels are shedding, and during this time their |
| + | strength leaves them. An old lama guide, a smuggler, is found, who offers to lead us by |
| + | a short road through uncultivated parts. Usually no one goes there, fearing lack of |
| + | water, but the lama has passed there no less than twenty times and knows that there are |
| + | wells, streams and springs. But at this season even on the general road the wells also |
| + | dry up and for this reason it is best to take the short way. The only danger of this new |
| + | direction is the presence of the bands of the notorious Ja-Lama. But he was himself |
| + | killed and his fellows are dispersed. Notwithstanding this, the region is dangerous. The |
| + | lama guide assures us that now one may pass these places safely. We suspect our |
| + | guide—may he not himself have been in the confidence of Ja-Lama? He knows too much of |
| + | him and is too sure that we shall pass safely with him. He knows how Ja-Lama made his |
| + | prisoners erect his city citadel which we shall pass on our way. We decided to go by |
| + | this new way, however. |
| + | |
| + | Limitless seems the Central Gobi. White—pink—blue—and slaty black. The gales bury the |
| + | flat slopes with a layer of stones. One must not be caught in this stony gale. The |
| + | danger in the Gobi is that the wells may have dried. Sometimes the mouths of the wells |
| + | are filled with fallen animals. One can avoid the lack of water by taking another |
| + | direction to the east, although the Chinese bands infest these regions. |
| + | |
| + | Night. Fires. Sentries. Recently within this canyon a caravan was looted. Suddenly the |
| + | night silence is broken by a loud rifle shot. The fires are stamped out. A line of our |
| + | men, armed with revolvers, lies low. Who opened fire on our camp? From somewhere comes |
| + | the barking of a dog. We call for a volunteer to reconnoiter. It is decided that if he |
| + | begins to sing, all is well. A vigilant silence and, at last, out of the darkness comes |
| + | a merry song: “A Chinaman, proprietor of a caravan, did the shooting. He got frightened |
| + | at the sight of our fires and thought we were robbers.” |
| + | |
| + | Nyerva, leader of the caravan, whistles to attract the wind in the heat of noon. Like a |
| + | barterer of winds on the shores of ancient Greece, the Mongol whistles long in a minor |
| + | key; and the tips of the desert grass stir as in a breeze. The breeze rises and the |
| + | Mongol winks, calling our attention to this. Barterers of winds! What a subject for an |
| + | opera or symphony. |
| + | |
| + | From the white pebbles on the bosom of the Gobi the hand of an unknown traveler has |
| + | fashioned certain figures. There are sacred inscriptions; but there are also erotic |
| + | drawings repulsive amidst the majesty of the desert. |
| + | |
| + | Again precautions are necessary. Again it is necessary to don Mongolian kaftans. We |
| + | approach the city of the notorious robber Ja-Lama or Tushegun Lama. We will camp |
| + | somewhere nearby for the night. In the dense twilight some objects loom dark behind the |
| + | hills. A dog barks. . . . Although Ja-Lama himself was recently killed by the Mongols, |
| + | his bands are not yet scattered. We did not light our fires for the night. We double the |
| + | sentries. In the morning we hear the astonished exclamation—“Here is the city above us!” |
| + | On the hills high up are perched the towers and walls—a veritable citadel. It is |
| + | imposing and picturesque. George and P. K., with rifles ready, go to investigate, and |
| + | the Mongols bid them farewell with warnings of caution. We watch through our field |
| + | glasses. But, finally they appear on the wall—it means that the robbers now have |
| + | deserted the castle. |
| + | |
| + | Ja-Lama was not an ordinary bandit. He was a graduate of Law from Petrograd University |
| + | and became a high lama of Tibet, possessing great occult knowledge. Would a night-robber |
| + | have erected this city upon a high elevation, visible from afar? What thoughts and |
| + | dreams fretted the gray head of Ja-Lama, which was carried for long afterward on a spear |
| + | through the bazaars of Mongolia? . . . All through the Central Gobi, the legend of |
| + | Ja-Lama will persist for a long time. What a scenario for a moving picture! |
| + | |
| + | Some peculiar riders approach the caravan and ask the Mongols about the amount of arms |
| + | we carry. The Mongols whisper and gesticulate, indicating something very great and then |
| + | inform us—“Ja-Lama’s men; they will not attack us.” |
| + | |
| + | We near Anhsi. Vague rumors reach us about some Chinese troops. To encounter them would |
| + | be worse than Ja-Lama’s men. We will encircle Anhsi by night. But Nivra loses the way. |
| + | Dawn finds us before the walls of Anhsi. They turn the camels and hasten to cross the |
| + | broad, swift stream. By evening we shall already have left the boundaries of Gansu, and |
| + | shall enter the region of Kuku-nor. On the mountains are the ruins of |
| + | fortresses—landmarks of the former rebellions of the Dungans. |
| + | |
| + | Swift streams. Before us is the snowy ridge of Nan-shan. |
| + | |
| + | The Central Gobi is ended. Interior Mongolia, waterless, with its eroded auriferous |
| + | ridges, is ended. In the mighty bottoms of these departed streams are concealed all |
| + | manner of remains of the giants of antiquity. |
| + | It is the first of June. Already for ten days we have been camping on the silvery |
| + | banks of Shih-pao-ch’ang. Nan-Shan glows in the sunrise. The mountain stream murmurs. |
| + | Whitely gleam the herds of goats and rams. Riders speed by us—is there any news? |
| + | Rumors are in the air. When shall we advance? They try to frighten us by telling us |
| + | not before September. There are many reasons. The grass must thicken. The camels must |
| + | fatten and their wool must grow; and also the treacherous swamps of Tsaidam must dry. |
| + | The Blue River will also subside by fall. We await news from Su-chow and Chamnar, and |
| + | in the meantime, sly Machen, pupil of the Chinese, overcharges us. The old cheat calls |
| + | me “the American King” and frequently during the day gallops over from his camp to our |
| + | own. |
| + | |
| + | Because we successfully administered medicine to them, the Mongols request us to invoke |
| + | the rain, because of the unprecedented drought. They offer us five dollars from each |
| + | yurta. |
| + | |
| + | In spite of all the machinations of Machen we moved on to Sharagol under the ridge named |
| + | after Humboldt. We crossed the cloudy quicksands of the Sharagol river with its endless |
| + | tributaries just in time. Konchok almost drowned his gray Chinese horse. |
| + | We camp beside a mountain spring on the foothill before Ulan davan (sixteen thousand |
| + | feet) on the road to Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetans relate that during the time of the flight of the Dalai Lama in 1904, at the |
| + | Chang-thang crossing, the men and horses felt a severe tremor. The Dalai Lama explained |
| + | to them that they were at the hallowed border of Shambhala. Does the Dalai Lama know |
| + | much of Shambhala? The Tashi Lama knows far more. |
| + | |
| + | On July fifth we celebrated the Festival of Maitreya. In the tent of Shambhala a long |
| + | service was performed and neighboring Mongols came and sang with our lamas. |
| + | |
| + | Mongolian “noblemen” drape around themselves the broad pleated medieval kaftans. They |
| + | wear gray felt caps, as though from the paintings of Gozzoli, and sacred chains and |
| + | amulets around their necks. Whirlwind and sandstorm. At two o’clock in the afternoon we |
| + | had to box ourselves tightly within the tents and light the candles. |
| + | |
| + | I draw a plan of a Suburgan on the site of Shambhala where the Great Guardian stopped |
| + | for the night. On July eleventh Nyerva from Kumbum monastery brings the prophecies and |
| + | the new prayer of the Tashi Lama to Shambhala. |
| + | |
| + | For three days P. K. has been galloping to Mahoi for camels. |
| + | |
| + | Three new books are being compiled. The peaks glow white with snow; the air is fresh and |
| + | the stillness recalls our Himalayan heights, toward which our spirits yearn. The Mongols |
| + | admire the views of New York. For them America is a Promised Land. They whisper: “It is |
| + | the attainment of Shambhala!” Not a day passes without its conversations on miraculous |
| + | America. |
| + | |
| + | On July fourteenth the annual holiday of the Mongols is celebrated. They are building a |
| + | new obo (a kind of Suburgan); there are races and festivity! The young people of our |
| + | camp beg us to let them go to the festival. |
| + | |
| + | Since morning we have discussed the need of a Pan-Asiatic language which, at least |
| + | elementally, would reconcile the three hundred dialects of Asia. In the evening our |
| + | lamas read the prayers to Maitreya and Shambhala. If the West could understand what |
| + | meaning the word Shambhala or Gessar has for Asia! |
| + | |
| + | The rain and wind begin. The middle of July is more like autumn. At night the rain beats |
| + | on the mountains. |
| + | |
| + | In the midst of the rain and storm, most unexpected news reaches us. Such conquest of |
| + | space is amazing. There is even news of the passing here of the Mahatma forty years ago. |
| + | Again a veritable buran and showers. It is cold. |
| + | |
| + | On July twentieth directions of the utmost importance reached us. They are difficult to |
| + | execute but they may lead to certain results. No one in the caravan as yet suspects our |
| + | immediate program. |
| + | |
| + | On the next day also important news came and once again our fellow-travelers did not |
| + | know of it. Compare these dates with your events. Gold was brought from Ulan Davan. Once |
| + | again the gale. Raya, who is already thirteeen years old, has never yet heard of Christ. |
| + | Thus do the fundamental teachings vanish out of life. |
| + | |
| + | July twenty-fourth. This is not only our day, but also the day of the completion of our |
| + | Suburgan. Mongols help in the erection of it and bring the treasure—norbu-rinpoche—tiny |
| + | stones and seeds to put into the chalice of the Suburgan. Within is also laid the |
| + | Ak-dorje and the Maitreya Sanga. |
| + | |
| + | Lai—in Hindu means red. |
| + | |
| + | The end of July: “I am going joyously into the battle.” Lapis exilis—the wandering |
| + | stone. Yesterday the Buriats foretold something impending. Precisely, “I am sending the |
| + | best currents for the happy decision of the works.” We decide to start through Tsaidam |
| + | to Tibet on August 19th. We shall dare to cross dangerous Tsaidam in a new direction. |
| + | |
| + | Toward evening on the twenty-eighth N. V. came galloping along with his sword and the |
| + | ring. We had hardly time to hear him, when, down the canyon, in place of the peaceful |
| + | stream, swept a devastating torrent. This was the result of the strange night-tumult in |
| + | the mountains. The torrent swept away the kitchen, the dining tent, George’s tent. Much |
| + | was destroyed and many Mongol yurtas were swept away. We walked up to our waist in |
| + | water. Many irreplaceable things were destroyed. N. V. told us that on the eve of his |
| + | departure, for some inexplicable reason, the tankas sent by us to Y. were destroyed by |
| + | fire. It is significant! Correlate! |
| + | |
| + | We complete the Suburgan. The Elder Lama of Tsaidam comes to consecrate it. Prince |
| + | Kurlik Beise sends envoys; he offers his caravan. It is significant because the Prince |
| + | usually molests travelers. |
| + | |
| + | On August fifth—something remarkable! We were in our camp in the Kukunor district not |
| + | far from the Humboldt Chain. In the morning about half-past nine some of our caravaneers |
| + | noticed a remarkably big black eagle flying above us. Seven of us began to watch this |
| + | unusual bird. At this same moment another of our caravaneers remarked, “There is |
| + | something far above the bird.” And he shouted in his astonishment. We all saw, in a |
| + | direction from north to south, something big and shiny reflecting the sun, like a huge |
| + | oval moving at great speed. Crossing our camp this thing changed in its direction from |
| + | south to southwest. And we saw how it disappeared in the intense blue sky. We even had |
| + | time to take our field glasses and saw quite distinctly an oval form with shiny surface, |
| + | one side of which was brilliant from the sun. |
| + | |
| + | On August seventh the Suburgan was consecrated. Gegen of Tsaidam arrived; about thirty |
| + | Mongolian guests also came. We held the service to the Suburgan. They promised to guard |
| + | the Suburgan of Shambhala. If only the Dungans would not destroy it! |
| + | |
| + | There was revolt among our Buriats. They went to the Chinese with a false report about |
| + | us. Instead of the rebellious Buriats we took three Torguts with us. They are good |
| + | shots. |
| + | |
| + | Following the false report of the Buriats, the Chinese soldiers, with an official of the |
| + | Sining Amban, arrived. They examined our passports. Of course, again extortion. We paid |
| + | the Chinese. The Mongols are indignant about this incident. |
| + | |
| + | Unexpected guests come swiftly from out the desert. Toward evening a mysterious |
| + | stranger, in a beautiful gold embroidered Mongol garb, came galloping along. Who was he? |
| + | Hurriedly he entered the tent. Without naming himself he said that he was our friend, |
| + | that he must warn us concerning an attack prepared against us on the border of Tibet. He |
| + | warned us of the need of increasing our guards and our reconnoitering troops. Thus he |
| + | spoke and galloped away. Who was he? Our lamas say: “He is either a thief or a robber or |
| + | a collector for the monastery.” No one liked the luxurious garments of the stranger. But |
| + | he was a friend. He desired to help. Again an operatic episode. |
| + | |
| + | On August nineteenth we started through Tsaidam to Tibet. A memorable night in |
| + | Tsaidam—when we crossed the salt marshes. We could not stop but had to go a hundred and |
| + | twenty miles without a halt. In the darkness of night the road is invisible and yet we |
| + | crossed the most dangerous parts during the night without realizing it. On either side |
| + | of the narrow path are bottomless pits. If the horse trips it is impossible to extricate |
| + | him. One false step and all is finished. It was difficult but at last Tsaidam was |
| + | crossed in a new and in the shortest direction. There are many errors on the maps. |
| + | |
| + | When we passed Tsaidam, which is by no means as the maps indicate it, one unconsciously |
| + | looked toward the west. There glowed the endless pink sands. We recalled that between |
| + | Tsaidam and Kunlun the maps show a complete desert area. Of course, this entire space is |
| + | unexplored. Whereas, in the folds of these hills there may be much which is remarkable. |
| + | In this direction, from the regions of Khotan and Scherschen the ancient Buddhist |
| + | monasteries might have spread. There may be interesting hermitages and monumental caves. |
| + | But even the Mongols speak little of these regions. They speak of caravans lost in the |
| + | sands, of buried cities—but all this is legendary. |
| + | |
| + | The gesture of greeting of the Tsaidam Mongols is remarkable. They uplift their arms as |
| + | though paying their reverence to the sun. It is so rhythmical and beautiful! It reminded |
| + | me of the beautiful gesture of the Hindu Brahmins that I saw in Benares during the hour |
| + | of morning prayer. In the same way I recall the beautiful gesture of the Mussulmans when |
| + | they are paying homage to the old Mazars (tombs). |
| + | |
| + | They talk about some foreigners who were in Taiginer and bought old things. Again they |
| + | say that foreigners came and took away “Burkhans” from Tun huang. Evidently something |
| + | took place at the celebrated cave temples. There is too persistent talk about it in |
| + | different districts. Not a few things were stolen for the Museums of Europe—but they |
| + | talk of these especial “burkhans” from Kashgar, from Urumchi to the very borders of the |
| + | Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Half-devoured corpses of men and horses are beside the road. The traces of the recent |
| + | battle of the Mongols and the Goloks are seen here. The Mongols are removing their |
| + | yurtas and hurrying under the protection of Prince Kurlik Beise. Soon we approach the |
| + | Naiji Pass, the point of which our unknown well-wisher warned us. All seems quiet but |
| + | near the camp we find a fresh camp-fire and a lost long-pipe. The place has been |
| + | recently inhabited. |
| + | |
| + | In the morning we proceed as usual. In the front, George and P. K. Then all of us on |
| + | horseback—we and the lamas. Behind at a distance the Torguts with the mules and further |
| + | behind, the caravan with camels, guarded by Golubin, Konchok and Tsering. In front of us |
| + | is a canyon between two hills. Elena Ivanovna, always sensitive, hears the distant |
| + | barking of dogs. Suddenly across the canyon among the hills, armed riders begin to leap, |
| + | hiding between the hills. Zangin Lama shouts out “arangan,” meaning robbers. I give the |
| + | order to turn back so that we can occupy the peak of the hill and be closer to the |
| + | Torguts. On the peak, instead of being the attacked we become the aggressors and take |
| + | command of the situation. The troop of Panagis stops, is evidently surprised at our |
| + | unexpected maneuver. The Colonel with Oschir the Torgut and the Buryat Buchaieff gallop |
| + | toward them with threatening shouts. The rest of us, ready for battle, keep watch. The |
| + | Panagis, unexpectedly caught, become confused and as a sign of submission lower their |
| + | arms. One of them holds a long spear—the sign that war is declared. We wanted to buy the |
| + | spear—but the Panagis said, “We cannot sell it. It is our friend.” The chief thing is |
| + | always to act boldly! |
| + | |
| + | The next day another attack was prepared but a terrific snowstorm, mingled with thunder, |
| + | dispersed the superstitious Panagis. And so we crossed Naiji. We admired the tremendous |
| + | herds of wild yaks. One of them was killed by the Torguts. Before us was the snow ridge, |
| + | Angar Dakchin, or Marco Polo. How strange to give European names to the mountains and |
| + | lakes which have their own names from ancient times. Toward night, the Mongolian lama |
| + | died of hemorrhage. It is sad. |
| + | |
| + | Behind Angar Dakchin is Kokushili. The same Kokushi which is known to the Old Believers |
| + | on Altai—the seekers for Belovodye. Not far from here also are the sacred borders. We |
| + | pass the rivers successfully. They cannot be crossed on horseback in spring or in the |
| + | summer. But now, in the fall the water is not higher than the reins of the horses. Only |
| + | two horses sank. Even the Blue River with its swift current was not an obstacle. |
| + | |
| + | We look for the Tibetan outposts. Why are they not here? Something glows white in the |
| + | distance. . . . Snow—but there is no snow around here. Is it a tent? But this is |
| + | something truly superb. It is a gigantic geyser of glauber salt. A snowy mass—glistening |
| + | in the sun—verily, a sacred boundary. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/1/32.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,732 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 32 |
| + | |
| + | October 6th |
| + | |
| + | Like black spiders with long legs are hidden the black tents of the Tibetans, stretched |
| + | upon the longest ropes. The border troops take our passport and suggest that we camp for |
| + | two days, until they bring the answer of General Horchichab, that is the chief ruler of |
| + | the Province, Hor, and the chief commander of the northern front. What flowery titles! |
| + | |
| + | We camp in the middle of a marshy plain overgrown with thin, prickly weeds. On the |
| + | horizon is the lake and dead mountains. I call them dead because this is a veritable |
| + | cemetery. Long ago, these were great mountains, perhaps rivals of Everest; now they are |
| + | eroded and crumbled into small stones. The deep valleys became filled, forming a hill of |
| + | fifteen thousand feet, open to the brutal winds. Before reaching the most significant |
| + | sites, before the heavenly Himalayas, one falls into horrible marshes. The horses are |
| + | slipping and stumbling among the ugly clumps. There is not a bird, not an animal. |
| + | |
| + | George slumps in his saddle and almost falls off his horse. We rush to him and take him |
| + | off. He has almost no heart beat. Two strong doses of digitalis are administered. We rub |
| + | his hands. He recovers. |
| + | |
| + | Further ahead Elena Ivanovana begins to feel badly. From the rear guard we are notified |
| + | that Lama Malonof fell off his horse and lies unconscious on the road. The doctor |
| + | hurries to him. Thus inhospitably does Tibet greet us. |
| + | |
| + | A multi-colored banner with a bent staff. Music—drums and bagpipes. The firing of a |
| + | salute. Deep in the tent is the little figure of the General in a vivid yellow khalat. |
| + | On his round Chinese cap is a crosslike Ak-dorje of rubies. He makes an ingratiating |
| + | speech and again requests us to stay in his camp, if only for two days. Then the General |
| + | accompanies us into our camp with banners and music and the motley crowd forming his |
| + | suite. |
| + | |
| + | The impression from our visit to Kap-shö-pa is one of insignificance. The banner has |
| + | become bent; his sword hangs like a piece of futile theatrical property; under the |
| + | precious stones, dirt is accumulated. This is old Chinese stuff which the Chinese |
| + | themselves have rejected. It is no longer fit for life and has lost all its former |
| + | decorativeness, because the quality of the handiwork is gone, as well as the finesse of |
| + | the art. One perceives only mediocrity and ugliness. Probably the General thought that |
| + | the impression from his yellow khalat would be very great. But even his closest |
| + | bodyguard was ragged and adorned with buttons from three armies—none of these Tibetan; |
| + | and in the place where a foreign button was lacking, a safety pin was stuck. The rifles |
| + | were of doubtful fitness, but there were plenty of musicians. |
| + | |
| + | Again drums and salutes from the guns. The General, with all this motley crowd, |
| + | accompanies us to our tent. At the same time he is curious to examine our things, |
| + | proclaiming that “the hands of small people must not touch the belongings of great |
| + | people.” |
| + | |
| + | We are told that the General came to settle some uprising among the Horpa. At the same |
| + | time he placed a ban on the hunting of the musk deer. It is quite incomprehensible why |
| + | one is allowed to kill domestic sheep and yaks, when wolves and foxes and everything |
| + | savage are protected. But the population holds to a different opinion and secretly hunts |
| + | kulans. |
| + | |
| + | Our Tibetan, Chimpa, is dying. He was useful to us during the encounter with the Panagis |
| + | and when the Mongols decided to desert us after Naiji. But when Chimpa reached Tibet he |
| + | asserted his real nature and at the crossing to the camp of the General he left us, took |
| + | our five camels, our tent and severed relations. This was his gratitude for all our care |
| + | during his sickness and for our priceless medicines! |
| + | |
| + | Evidently even a Tibetan cannot withstand the local climate. This is the third death in |
| + | our caravan. The Mongolian lama died from pneumonia. The lama from Kharchin died because |
| + | of the altitude. Did not the bears sense the presence of a dead body when they crept |
| + | closer to the camp the night of his death? And they did not have to wait long. By |
| + | morning his corpse was left to them. |
| + | |
| + | The General prepares to depart for Kham. Finally he accepts our gift and disappears. And |
| + | the caressing two days are transformed into a cruel five months of encampment in summer |
| + | tents, in a frost of sixty Celsius, under whirlwinds and gales, at a height of fifteen |
| + | thousand feet. A major and some ragamuffin soldiers are stationed with us. We are |
| + | forbidden to speak to the passing caravans. We are forbidden to buy food from the |
| + | population. The caravan slowly perishes. Every day there are new corpses near the tents, |
| + | and packs of wild dogs noisily divide their new repast. Of 104 caravan animals, ninety |
| + | perish. Five men die—three Mongolian lamas and two Tibetans. MalonofFs body becomes |
| + | swollen from an attack of his heart and finally he also dies. The wife of the major who |
| + | was stationed with us gets sick of pneumonia and dies. |
| + | |
| + | Gryphons and eagles fight with packs of dogs over the prey. My letter to the Dalai Lama |
| + | is found torn on the road. The letters to Colonel Bailey, British Resident of Sikhim, |
| + | and to the Consul General of the United States in Calcutta are seized. We are forbidden |
| + | to return or to move on. In spite of George’s knowledge of the Tibetan language we can |
| + | only study Tibetan life in its starkness; but we cannot help our condition. They tell us |
| + | that the telegraph between Lhasa and India is destroyed because now Tibet does not need |
| + | communication with the “Pellings.” They refuse to take into consideration the doctor’s |
| + | certificate about our illness. They say that our passport was lost on the road although |
| + | witnesses deny this invention. |
| + | |
| + | Instead of the General’s promised permission to proceed we remain on a plain exposed to |
| + | the winds. The Tibetans tell us that the General’s messenger to Lhasa disappeared on the |
| + | road. Instead of helping, the Major prevents us from buying food in the neighboring |
| + | villages. He forbids communication with the passing caravans and is without any feeling |
| + | of compunction in the exchange of Chinese dollars. The doctor is very pessimistic and |
| + | prophesies fatal illness because of the increasing frost. N. V. offers to go in disguise |
| + | to India, but without knowledge of the language and with his noticeable height, this |
| + | would end disastrously. |
| + | |
| + | The entire population of black Horpa, like small Niebelungen, seem full of unrest. They |
| + | sleep in a seated posture. They eat raw meat. They are only covered with half-rags—black |
| + | from the smoke of the fire—and skins. They whisper, “The entire district is now covered |
| + | with snows such as never before. Our yaks and sheep will perish. We shall not have |
| + | Tsampa (barley). Our children will die and we shall die. And all this misfortune is |
| + | because our government treats great travelers in such an inhuman way.” |
| + | |
| + | The lamas predict that everything will turn out well, and that the messenger with a |
| + | propitious answer is already coming, that tomorrow he will arrive. But the days pass. |
| + | The frost and gale increase. On the white plain no one is seen. The last horses and |
| + | camels are falling. During the night the shivering animals come close to the tents, |
| + | pulling the ropes as if they are knocking. And at dawn, we find them dead. And our men, |
| + | huddled in sheepskins, pull them a few steps away from the camp. Otherwise the dangerous |
| + | wild dogs and gryphons, the grave diggers, would give us no rest. One pack of dogs—about |
| + | fifteen—has already attacked me. Every day our fire-arms are at hand. The Major wants to |
| + | buy our arms, but in this country one must guard one’s arms. |
| + | |
| + | Again frost and gales. Finally there is an uprising followed by the secession of our |
| + | Buryat lamas. They thought that by slander against us they would improve their position. |
| + | They were completely unable to obtain work. |
| + | |
| + | And so each day goes by amidst the frozen plain with the dull outlines of the dead |
| + | mountains. Then we make a short move from Chunargen to Sharugen in the vicinity of the |
| + | Bon-po monastery. Only about two hours of marching and again the same detention. We |
| + | requested permission to visit General Kap-shö-pa in his encampment at Kham. We were |
| + | told: “Me, me, me,” which means, “No.” We asked to be permitted to pass through Eastern |
| + | Tibet again. Again, “Me, me, me.” Everything is “Me, me, me.” At the same time the |
| + | General writes us letters about the “drops of clemency which are dripping from the |
| + | resplendent fingers of the Dalai Lama.” But weeks go by. And finally the governors of |
| + | Nagchu themselves come. |
| + | |
| + | It is quite unprecedented that both governors should at once leave their province and |
| + | come personally. They come with black eye glasses, in woolly fur caps. They are noisy. |
| + | They are astonished that we gave importance to the Tibetan passport and altogether |
| + | conduct themselves unreasonably. One of them is a lama, rumored to have strangled the |
| + | Amban of Sining. The other, a sly old Manchurian official. We endure all with great |
| + | patience. Now they will transport us to Nagchu but it will be a continuation of the same |
| + | detention. They will demand gifts. But somehow, somewhere, we shall move, though perhaps |
| + | in the most roundabout way. Some of us hope that our detention will not exceed one |
| + | hundred days, but it will be more correct to assume 150 days and several additional days |
| + | for delays on the road. Thus we must count the entire detention as lasting half a year. |
| + | Of course during this time the Tibetans have afforded us an unusual opportunity to |
| + | become acquainted with their life, customs and ethics. Without communications with |
| + | governors, generals, dzong pons, officers, elders and lamas, we would not have any |
| + | assurance about the reality of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The frost at dawn is cruel. As usual, below 70 degrees Celsius. In the morning the |
| + | doctor’s cognac is frozen. One can imagine what a frost it is, when the strong wine |
| + | becomes frozen. The doctor is pessimistic as before and expects danger. The health of N. |
| + | V. and P. K. is bad. Death is predicted for Ochir. Ludmilla and Raya—or as Tibetans call |
| + | them, Milla and Raiya—keep well. |
| + | |
| + | What tiresome hills are between Chunargan and Nagchu. The mountains have long since |
| + | crumbled and now the heaps of pebbles and stones are eroding. There is not a bush nor a |
| + | tree; only high mounds with thorny prickly grass distasteful to the horses. We were told |
| + | that on reaching Central Tibet we would be astonished by the change of nature. But |
| + | others smile and say that up to the very Himalayas we shall go through a cemetery of |
| + | crumbled mountains. Poor Hor-pa. Their teeth are falling out from scurvy. The muscles |
| + | are lax. They have less strength than thirteen-year-old Raya. Of course lean raw meat |
| + | and a pinch of dirty *tsampa* do not make for health. And how immeasurable is |
| + | their suspicion of each other! They do not trust; they are afraid; they constantly |
| + | anticipate all sort of misfortune. Mongols, in spite of the sly Dunganese officials, are |
| + | veritable freemen compared with Tibetans. |
| + | |
| + | Everywhere are the signs of the cross. The old Mongolian coins of Nestorian khans have a |
| + | cross, and over an ancient Buddhist monastery near Peking is a cross. On the seat of the |
| + | saddle is also a cross and the reins are also fitted out with a cross. Even upon the |
| + | stones of Ladak and Sinkiang are crosses. Nestorians and Manicheans passed broadly |
| + | through Asia. On the frescoes of the monasteries are crosses. In the design of the |
| + | kaftan, on the beads, on the necklaces, on the amulets—always the very same cross: Not |
| + | the swastika with the streams of fire, but of equal arms, the eternal symbol of life. On |
| + | the Chinese hats of Tibetan generals glows a ruby, crosslike *dorje.* The steed |
| + | of happiness carries its sign. All bronze fibulae, probably from the tombs, are formed |
| + | of a cross in a circle. |
| + | |
| + | Everywhere are the same signs of Chintamani. The little pillars of the houses and the |
| + | clay-beaten walls are marked by this thrice-powerful image. The mules, the wrought |
| + | silver vessels, the military banners, the prayer banners, the wood-cut on the page of a |
| + | book are strengthened by the symbol of power. |
| + | |
| + | Compare the present tale with its original source: Now one says: “And great hunger |
| + | descended upon earth and people perished and could not longer endure. Then the Blessed |
| + | Bodhisattvas sent a shower of rice. There was such excess of food that not only were all |
| + | the people fully sustained but they also brought mountains of rice and erected temples |
| + | and chortens of it. The temples were of such dimensions that it took several years to |
| + | walk around them, and one chief chorten could only be encircled in several days. This |
| + | place exists upon an island where the true teaching of the Blessed One formerly |
| + | flourished.” |
| + | |
| + | One must understand it thus: Great spiritual hunger descended upon earth. And people |
| + | could no longer exist in such dreadful conditions. Then the Great Teacher sent a true |
| + | shower of spiritual food. Humanity which was exalted by this benediction erected great |
| + | monuments of spiritual achievements. The measurements of these achievements are |
| + | unencompassable. The teaching of Shambhala exists in a fortified place. And its power |
| + | will soon become manifest. |
| + | |
| + | The monasteries of Bon-po of the Black faith, hostile to Buddha, have a curious |
| + | interest. In the Black Faith, which as a Black Mass exactly inverts the ritual of the |
| + | Buddhist faith, one sees only denial of Buddha, and denunciation of Buddha and of all |
| + | Buddhists as enemies. If the Buddhists encircle the altars from left to right, the |
| + | Bon-po takes the opposite direction. If the Swastika of the Buddhist turns in the |
| + | direction of the sun, that of the Bon-po must be turned in the opposite direction. They |
| + | have invented their own saints and special sacred books. They have invented a special |
| + | protector who replaces Buddha; and if you study the biography of this legendary |
| + | protector you will be astonished to find the same details and events as in the life of |
| + | Buddha; he is also supposed to be of royal family. The Bon-po do not allow Buddhists to |
| + | enter their temples, and acknowledge neither the Tashi Lama nor the Dalai Lama. For them |
| + | the Dalai Lama is only a civil ruler collecting taxes. |
| + | |
| + | They are very friendly with foreigners because they believe that foreigners have nothing |
| + | to do with Buddhism. In the beginning they greeted us heartily and proposed that we |
| + | study their books and visit their temples, where we saw many inverted Buddhist symbols. |
| + | But when they understood that we were in sympathy with Buddhism, their attitude entirely |
| + | changed. You can understand our astonishment in finding such things in a so-called |
| + | Buddhist country. As I said, they are numerous and well-to-do and are very |
| + | self-assertive. It is not a secret sect and Tibetans told us that now Bon-po is again |
| + | increasing. Not only have these people an invented Buddha but they have mysterious |
| + | deities of Swastika. |
| + | |
| + | This recalls the prehistoric times, the primitive religion of fire-worship of the Druids |
| + | which has here been corrupted into the incomprehensibly strange deities of Swastika. |
| + | Instead of the sacred word, Aum, they use the word “A.” In the old occult teaching the |
| + | same expression, “A,” is used for Materia Matrix. It would be interesting to study the |
| + | origins of Bon-po, as perhaps something of the Druid and old fire-worship would be |
| + | found. |
| + | |
| + | One cannot believe any statement. All around us is death. For five months on the main |
| + | road to China and Mongolia only three caravans passed. The Tibetan nomads whisper about |
| + | the difficult times for Lhasa. Of course under such conditions the country cannot exist. |
| + | Finally the governors of Nagchu become satisfied with the gifts, and after receiving the |
| + | information that our money is exhausted, decide to send us out by a roundabout way |
| + | through Chang-thang to Namru Dzong, Shentsu Dzong, through passes of twenty thousand six |
| + | hundred feet not marked on maps, to Saga-Dzong, across the Brahmaputra, to Tingri-Dzong, |
| + | Shekar-Dzong, Kampa-Dzong and through Sepo-la to Sikhim. Evidently they have decided to |
| + | show us all religions of Tibet so that no doubts should be left in our mind about this |
| + | country. It is not an easy way. Nobody has yet crossed from Ulan Bator Khoto to Sikhim. |
| + | |
| + | It is inexplicable why the Dzong-pons, officials of Tibetan Dzongs (fortresses), show |
| + | themselves from the most ugly side. The people tell dark tales. |
| + | |
| + | The ruins of old Tibet are interesting: These ancient towers and walls were molded by an |
| + | aspiring type of people. Their builders knew about Gessar Khan and about the Ruler of |
| + | Shambhala. Here also were the Ashrams of the great Mahatmas. But now there is nothing |
| + | left of this. |
| + | |
| + | I recall the stones of the “Tchud”—tombs on Altai. There passed the Goths who penetrated |
| + | all Europe with their influence. And here in the Trans-Himalayas we meet the very same |
| + | ancient tombs. We find places of ancient shrines which carry one’s thoughts to the |
| + | sun-cults of the Druids. The swords of the northern inhabitants of the Trans-Himalayas |
| + | might have been taken out of the Goth graves on the South Russian steppes. The fibulae |
| + | of Gothic burials—do they not remind you of the buckles of Tibetan tribes. And why was |
| + | the site of Lhasa some time ago called Gotha according to missionary chronicles? And |
| + | whence the name of the tribe Gotl? Whence, where and how did the forefathers of the |
| + | Goths migrate, driven out by glaciers and by the severe moraines? In the crystallized |
| + | daily life of the northern Tibetans are there not found the ancient traits of their |
| + | departed brothers? It is astonishing; one Hor-pa resembles Moliere. Another would fit |
| + | the type of d’Artagnan. The third resembles an Italian corsair. The fourth, with long |
| + | strands of hair, is a distortion of a portrait of Hals or Palamedes; and that black and |
| + | somber one, with an aquiline nose, is he not the executioner of Philip the Second? |
| + | |
| + | And finally in the district of Doring (meaning the Long Stone) we found a real field of |
| + | menhirs such as in Karnak. During the two marches which followed we found three more |
| + | small groups of menhirs. For me it was a great joy to see this indubitable sign of |
| + | Druidic antiquity. |
| + | |
| + | “Ki-hoho” rings out the call from the camp of Goloks. “Hoihe” answers our camp. And so |
| + | the whole night the enemies are mutually warned about the incessant vigilance of our |
| + | camp. But of course the Goloks are already informed about our arms and have taken well |
| + | into consideration the extent of our military capacity. The verdict was in our favor, |
| + | and today we shall see the friendly faces of the dangerous nomads. |
| + | |
| + | The Black Faith of Bon-po is so in keeping with the black tents. Upon long ropes, like |
| + | deadly spiders, the tents gleam black in a formless mass. Next to them are black spots: |
| + | refuse or corpses. The dryness of the air lessens the ill smell of decomposition. The |
| + | piercing wind scatters the dry bones. We recall the widely announced safe-passage of the |
| + | Donyer of Urga. How remarkably different is Tibet at a distance. They talk and whisper |
| + | about uprisings. . . . |
| + | |
| + | At each encampment the same thing happens: If we camp in the usual village, there is no |
| + | trouble in procuring animals. If the Elder lives in the village, then one may be sure of |
| + | unpleasant discussions; and if one gets into a dzong or monastery he should be prepared |
| + | for a delay. Nothing is prepared, in spite of several *da-yig* letters, which |
| + | were sent long since. It appears that the *da-yigs* were not received; that by |
| + | mistake they were sent in another direction. It appears that villages where there are |
| + | animals are far off, and it will take several days to gather yaks and horses. Finally it |
| + | appears that as usual the peasants simply do not listen to Dzong-pon and refuse to |
| + | fulfill his order. Sometimes the Dzong-pon suggests that we conduct all negotiations |
| + | directly with the peasants and write our own letter to the villages with our own seal. |
| + | And the seal must be red. Otherwise we will have to stay near the Dzong for many days. |
| + | It sometimes also happens that one Elder suggests to us to arrest another unruly one. He |
| + | himself leads us to the latter’s camp and advises us to bind him and deliver him to |
| + | Lhasa. Our Torguts have sometimes bound the hands of the Elder tightly behind his back; |
| + | then his relations come with tongues sticking out and agree to fulfill the order of the |
| + | Dalai Lama. Or it may happen that the governor suggests to us to arrest the local Major |
| + | and to take him bound to Lhasa. At such a possible turn of affairs the Major lowers his |
| + | tone and becomes more civil. |
| + | |
| + | Before Saga-dzong are two unexpected passes. One is shown on the maps; but the other, a |
| + | larger one of more than twenty thousand feet, is not indicated. This road is shown on |
| + | the maps only by a faint outline. Evidently no one ever traversed it. There is the other |
| + | customary southern road. But the Tibetan government sends us through this unexplored |
| + | northern path. |
| + | |
| + | On the way the Elders refuse to give us animals and again, instead of the passport of |
| + | the governors, they ask us to send a letter with our seal everywhere. For our wax seal |
| + | makes a greater impression. |
| + | |
| + | From the crest of the pass a powerful white chain of snowy giants has appeared. This is |
| + | already Nepal and the long-awaited Himalayas, on the other side of the Brahmaputra. |
| + | |
| + | Saga-dzong is also a small impoverished village. They eat the corpses of animals and |
| + | they mix tiny pebbles with the barley. The mendangs are defiled by fallen dogs and all |
| + | sorts of refuse. |
| + | |
| + | The camp is full of excitement. We are approaching the Brahmaputra, the very one which |
| + | has its source in the sacred Manasaravar, Lake of the Great Nagi. There is where the |
| + | wise Rig-vedas originated; there one is near the sacred Kailas; there, pilgrims go, |
| + | realizing on what a noble highway lie these sites. Already files of pilgrims are |
| + | encountered; they are gloomy and ragged, and carry spears. |
| + | |
| + | Amidst rocks and sand, lilac and purple, lies the Brahmaputra. In May the water is not |
| + | yet completely risen. The water line on the banks shows to what extent the river rises |
| + | in June with the snow thaw and rains. There is still greater reverence for the |
| + | Brahmaputra than for the Blue River. The Blue Yangtse-Kyang is the longest river in the |
| + | world but the Brahmaputra, son of Brahma, is enveloped by a rich frame-work of legends. |
| + | It links the sacred bed of the Ganges with the Himalayas; for Manasaravar is close to |
| + | Sutlej and the source of the Great Indus. There also was born Aryavarta. |
| + | |
| + | A Mongolian lama says: “There lived a remarkably versed and scientific Geshe. But he |
| + | always walked in the most modest garment. Once the Geshe went to visit his teacher, the |
| + | former abbot of a big Labrang. The vain courtiers of the abbot saw the humble visitor |
| + | and sent him away. And again came the Geshe and again he was evicted. Then the Geshe |
| + | went to a merchant in a bazaar and asked him to lend him a rich garment and the Geshe |
| + | put into his girdle several stones which looked like nuggets of Chinese silver. And in |
| + | this way he was at once permitted to see his teacher. The Geshe entered, took off his |
| + | rich garment, took from out the girdle the stones, and put them all together in a |
| + | corner. Then he bowed to the stones and the garment; and only after did he bow to his |
| + | teacher. |
| + | |
| + | The other asked, “Am I not your teacher? If so, why do you bow first to the stones and |
| + | the garment?” |
| + | |
| + | “It is true,” answered the Geshe that you are my teacher, “but without these things I |
| + | could not reach you, and therefore I bow to that which brought me to my reverenced |
| + | master.” |
| + | |
| + | Near the Brahmaputra are five monasteries leaning against the rocks of Chatu-gompa. Two |
| + | of them are of the Red Sect, and three of Bon-po of the Black Faith. The monasteries of |
| + | the Black Faith look far newer and cleaner than those of the Red Sect. Out of the |
| + | windows of a big Dukang or Red Monastery, straw sticks out; several lamas of hopelessly |
| + | dilapidated appearance sadly stroll about. The Black Believers, on learning that we |
| + | sympathize with Buddhism, ask us not even to approach their monasteries. |
| + | |
| + | With astonishment we look at the *sho,* the only copper coin of Tibet in |
| + | circulation. We saw neither silver nor gold in the *dzongs* nor in popular use. |
| + | Although the minting of the small copper coins is poor, yet how grandiose is the |
| + | inscription: “The government is victorious in all directions.” It is astonishing that |
| + | the half-sho and the quarter-sho are bigger than the *sho* itself. |
| + | |
| + | Now comes our crossing through the Brahmaputra near the monastery Schitu. There is a |
| + | small boat, a ferry, with a carved horse on the prow. It is especially difficult to load |
| + | the camels. The current is pretty swift. |
| + | |
| + | Although Tingri-dzong is regarded as a strong fortress it has a pitiful toy-like aspect, |
| + | which perhaps had importance previous to the invention of gunpowder. There is no |
| + | monastery but only suburgans of the Red Sects with fearful images and stripes as signs |
| + | of their allegiance to the Red Sect. We recall the same fearful images on Tantrik |
| + | tankas. What can one not see upon them? Magic swords, flayed human skins, fearful images |
| + | with projecting teeth, and inverted triangles. The entire synthesis of Black Magic. |
| + | |
| + | Near Tingri-dzong Mount Everest looms up in all its glimmering beauty. |
| + | |
| + | We meet people who knew Sven Hedin. They praise him and regret that he could not speak |
| + | Tibetan. They have heard here about Filchner. Some legends are already invented to the |
| + | effect that he left three boys on the Blue River, as well as a mouse, a weasel and |
| + | prairie dog. How does this originate? Of course, had we not known the language our |
| + | entire work would have been immensely difficult. It is fortunate that George’s knowledge |
| + | of the language is considered by the Tibetans second only to Sir Charles Bell. The |
| + | latter was called “the officer of peace,” because of the way he conducted his |
| + | negotiations. |
| + | |
| + | Here is the old monastery Chung-tu, which belongs to the royal monastery Saskya. |
| + | Evidently much has transpired within its ancient walls. Here is an umbrella above a |
| + | large suburgan—the sign of former royal distinction. And here are crumbled Chinese |
| + | walls, memories of conquered Tibet. Here is a long file of ancient |
| + | Suburgans—remembrances of the time of a peaceful age. Here are amassed old and new |
| + | by-ways and structures. |
| + | |
| + | Another ancient place: Shekar-dzong. When the Tibetans were bold eagles, they were not |
| + | afraid of soaring up to the steep rocks to mount their stronghold-sanctuaries upon the |
| + | sharp promontories. There is a wealth of decoration on towers, passages and temples. But |
| + | now Tibetans have descended to the valley. The chieftains are afraid to live in the |
| + | castles and huddle below. Only from afar are the old dzongs of Tibet attractive. The |
| + | prices for products are high to the point of absurdity. A sack of twenty-nine pounds of |
| + | poor grain, of which five pounds are stones, costs eleven *norsangs* which is |
| + | about nine rupees in the dzongs. A little piece of barley sugar is about four or five |
| + | rupees. A horse, for two days’ travel, eight rupees; and a pack-yak, four rupees. |
| + | |
| + | Our marches are not of even length. Either they are very short, not exceeding four hours |
| + | on horseback. Or, suddenly, they last for nine hours almost at a trot. We hasten toward |
| + | Kampa-dzong, the last dzong before the border of Sikhim. But where is the castle? For a |
| + | long time we fail to recognize the bulky mass on the distant rock as a castle. Really |
| + | this structure is placed so high that it merges into the rock. Dzong pen, the chief of |
| + | the castle, is a trifle more friendly than the others. |
| + | |
| + | Far higher than the dzong on the opposite rocks is a monastery, in which now only eight |
| + | lamas remain. But in this very monastery is the courtyard mentioned in the “Letters of |
| + | the Mahatmas.” There was the school mentioned by the Mahatmas, but now this school does |
| + | not exist. But the old people still remember that here was a “religious school.” And |
| + | they remember the “tall Azaras” from India. |
| + | |
| + | The last crossing—Sepo-la. This pass is easier than the others. We pass the turquoise |
| + | lake, where the river Lachen has its source. The torrents begin as modest streams which, |
| + | after two days of travel, seethe and become impassable without a bridge. Here is the |
| + | first aroma of the healing Balu, and the first low cedars. Before us are whole forests |
| + | of rhododendrons in bloom. |
| + | |
| + | Zoji La, Khardong La, Karaul Devan, Sasser Pass, Dabsang Pass, Karakorum Pass, Suget |
| + | Pass, Sanju Pass, Urtu Kashkariin Daban, Ulan Daban, Chahariin Daban, Khentu Pass, Naiji |
| + | La, Kukushili Pass, Dungbudra Pass, Tang La, Kamrong La, Tasang La, Lamsi Pass, Naptra |
| + | La, Tamaker Pass, Shentsa Pass, Laptse nagri Pass, Tsag La, Lam ling Pass, Pong chen La, |
| + | Dong La, Sang mo La, Kyegong La, Tsug chung La, Gya La, Urang La, Sharu La, Galung La, |
| + | Sepo La; these are the thirty-five passes, each from fourteen thousand to twenty-one |
| + | thousand feet high, which are crossed. |
| + | |
| + | Of all our camels, two crossed the Himalayas. One is from Bulugun (northern Mongolia), |
| + | the other from Tsaidam. They will be the first to reach Gangtok, the capital of Sikhim. |
| + | We will present them to the Maharajah of Sikhim. Along the entire way from Nagchu to |
| + | Gangtok the camels attract crowds of curious onlookers because these “animals” have |
| + | never been seen here. From Lhasa to Calcutta, camels are not known. In Thangu, a house |
| + | already awaited us: a dak-bungalow and even forgotten magazines of 1927. For more than a |
| + | year we existed entirely without news of the outer world. |
| + | |
| + | The fairy tale of the waterfalls! A whole symphony is in the patterned streams. For |
| + | several days we descend. Nearby we pass all species of the vegetable world. Finally, |
| + | palms appear and near the river pass two leopards, vividly yellow with thick warm black |
| + | spots. They appear, greet us cordially and go away. All already is seen: the |
| + | black-and-white bears of Chang-thang, antelopes and argali, the stone-like rams with |
| + | curved horns; finally the well-decked leopards. |
| + | |
| + | A modest Finnish mission is in La-chen. Kind Miss Kronquist, self-exiled in solitude |
| + | among the rocks, relates tales about the avalanches which threaten all Sikhim. Is it |
| + | possible that on the southern side of the Himalayas continues the same deadening process |
| + | which has crumbled the peaks of Chang-thang? Inspired by the noise of the current of |
| + | Lachen which sprang up and became stronger under our very eyes, we recall Imatra and |
| + | Finland and the sympathetic Relander and Aksel Gallen-Kallela. Here are the same blue |
| + | distances as in Finland. |
| + | |
| + | We make our final calculations regarding the caravan. The American equipment withstood |
| + | all trials. The Belber trunks crossed from America for four years through entire Asia, |
| + | through all fordings and passes without any damage. The tents from Abercrombie and Fitch |
| + | also withstood all gales. |
| + | |
| + | The remaining part of the way to Gangtok was easy. The hospitable house of the British |
| + | Resident, Colonel Bailey, greets us. We tell about our trip. The letters to America are |
| + | sent off. We are given a trustworthy *sardar* to Darjeeling. We shall make the |
| + | entire way from Gangtok in one day. But we will have to change automobiles three times, |
| + | because on the Tista the bridge was recently washed away and it is necessary to change. |
| + | It means three automobiles and ten miles on horseback in one day—a steep ascent from |
| + | Tista through Peshok. |
| + | |
| + | It is necessary to collect and compile all the expedition material. This may take a long |
| + | time. George, the Doctor, N. V., and P. K. are also preparing their notes. Our |
| + | fellow-travelers will quickly scatter—one to China, one to Italy, one to Australia. |
| + | Everywhere they will recall the inexpressible beauty of the Himalayas. Our way led from |
| + | the Himalayas, and back to them. Majestic is Karakorum and the icy kingdom of Sasser. |
| + | Beautiful is Kunlun. Fantastic is T’ian Shan—celestial mountains. Broad in sweep is |
| + | Altai. Decorative is Nan shang. Austere is Angar Dakchin. But all these are only the |
| + | preface to the unutterable grandeur of the Himalayas. |
| + | |
| + | In the Himalayas the great Vedanta was crystallized. In the Himalayas Buddha became |
| + | exalted in spirit. The very air of the Himalayas is penetrated with spiritual |
| + | tension—the true Maitreya Sanga. |
| + | |
| + | Our friend in Sikhim, the lama, tells us that during the winter he had heard that large |
| + | detachments of cavalry were standing before Nagchu; such information caused a great deal |
| + | of anxiety. This proved to be only one of the rumors current about ourselves. During |
| + | these years rumor made me a “French and American King,” “Commander of a Russian Corps,” |
| + | and “King of all Buddhists.” I succeeded in dying twice. I succeeded in being |
| + | simultaneously in Siberia, America and Tibet. According to the words of Mongols of |
| + | Tsaidam I carried on a war with the Amban of Sining. And according to the words of the |
| + | Taotai of Khotan I brought a small cannon which would, in ten minutes, destroy entire |
| + | Khotan and its one hundred thousand inhabitants. We became accustomed to all this and |
| + | now are no longer astonished by “authentic” rumors. The Mongols firmly remember the |
| + | “Ameri Khan”: Thus the American has been visualized as a kind of warrior. Fairy tales |
| + | about ourselves from Lhasa were related to us, in which we could only identify ourselves |
| + | with difficulty. |
| + | |
| + | It is wondrous and strange to pass through the same places where the Mahatmas passed. |
| + | Here was the school founded by Them. Two days’ travel from Saga-dzong there was one of |
| + | the Ashrams—not far from the Brahmaputra. Here the Mahatma stopped, hastening on an |
| + | undeferrable mission. And here stood the modest blue tent. Now when Europe argues about |
| + | the existence of the Mahatmas, when the Hindus are significantly silent about Them, many |
| + | people in the expanses of Asia not only know the Mahatmas, not only have seen Them, but |
| + | know many actual evidences of Their deeds and appearances. Always awaited, the Mahatmas |
| + | unexpectedly created in the spaces of Asia a great special existence. When it was |
| + | necessary, They manifested themselves. And when necessary, They passed unnoticeably as |
| + | ordinary travelers. They do not write Their Names upon the stones, but the hearts of |
| + | those who know, guard These Names, stronger than the rocks. Why suspect a fairy tale, |
| + | imagination, invention, when in living forms the knowledge of the Mahatmas is impressed? |
| + | |
| + | In haste, moved by idle curiosity, you will not understand even a simple chemical |
| + | experiment. Will those, who in futile conversation discuss the question of Mahatmas, |
| + | achieve anything? Will their empty curiosity be satisfied? How many people there are who |
| + | would love to receive a letter from the Mahatmas! But would it change their lives? It |
| + | would provide a moment of astonishment and confusion and then again everything would |
| + | return to the old routine, leaving no trace. |
| + | |
| + | Often we are astonished why people who know the Mahatmas are so widely different in |
| + | their social positions. But why was Boehme a shoemaker? Are the dimensions of |
| + | consciousness measured only by outward distinctions? The works of the Mahatmas and their |
| + | instructions to the pupils, are related in a literature which is not nearly as limited |
| + | as it seems to those who do not know it. |
| + | |
| + | The average scientist talks about Mahatmas as pure illusion. These are the scientists |
| + | who have never seen Mahatmas. But Sir William Crooks or Sir Oliver Lodge would not speak |
| + | so. Vivekananda, who was always upholding the rationalism of observation, knew Mahatmas. |
| + | Many Hindus know Them. But they safeguard Their Names to such an extent that they are |
| + | even ready to deny Their existence in order not to betray, not to reveal. |
| + | |
| + | Not to betray! What a charm is in this understanding of the Guru in the steps of ascent. |
| + | |
| + | But many are knocking at the doors of the great science. Often they do not acknowledge |
| + | it, even are angered if someone asks them about it. How many of the younger generation |
| + | want sincerely to start correspondence with a Guru! They try to find a real teacher. |
| + | Everybody knocks in his own way. And how many of them find disillusionment because they |
| + | knock at the wrong door, or they lacked sufficient energy and necessary determination to |
| + | receive a true answer. |
| + | |
| + | “What laboratory could analyze those who approach the technical methods of knowledge?” |
| + | Yes, verily, it must be a laboratory where labor and perseverance and fearlessness are |
| + | the keys to the gates. In a sound rationalism, in a true and fearless materialism grow |
| + | the wings of spirit, the wings of consciousness. We are not to be isolated from life—not |
| + | destructive, but creative—such is the teaching of the Mahatmas. They speak about the |
| + | scientific foundations of existence. They direct one toward the conquest of energy. They |
| + | speak of those victories of labor which shall transform life into a constant festival. |
| + | Everything suggested by them is not ephemeral and illusory, but real, and pertains to |
| + | the most all-embracing study of possibilities, which are suggested to us by life, |
| + | without superstition, without prejudice. The true followers of the Mahatmas are not |
| + | sectarians or hypocrites. On the contrary they are most vital people; they conquer in |
| + | life. Not for long do they go into the mountains to purify themselves by the emanations |
| + | of prana. In the darkest places of Tibet they know something about the Mahatmas, they |
| + | have some recollections and legends. But for the moment their attention is directed to |
| + | the prophecies about the return of the Tashi Lama in his full glory. |
| + | |
| + | Despite all, the straight road—Mongolia, Tsaidam, Tibet and the Himalayas—is crossed: |
| + | first on the trail of Ja lama; then in Tsaidam in a new direction, then through the |
| + | dzongs of Tibet to the mountain passes of the “abodes of snows.” |
| + | |
| + | There is something of predestination in the dying of old Tibet. The wheel of the law is |
| + | turned. The mystery is gone. Tibet has none to guard; and none guards Tibet. The |
| + | exclusiveness of its position as guardian of Buddhism no longer belongs to Tibet. |
| + | Because Buddhism, according to the Commands of the Blessed One, becomes a universal |
| + | possession. There is no need of superstition for the deep teaching. Prejudices are |
| + | inimical to the search for truth. |
| + | |
| + | The first image of the Blessed One was received by Tibet from Nepal and China—received |
| + | only in the seventh century, more than one thousand years after the Blessed One lived |
| + | and taught; received after the time when in India the brilliant literature of the |
| + | followers of Buddhism had been already collected. The first image was received only |
| + | after the beautiful Viharas, before which the Dukang of Tibet stand as poor younger |
| + | brothers, were rising in all parts of Asia. Now, when there begins to be concern about |
| + | the revival of true Buddhism, this wave passes by Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Let us consider the Black Magic of Tibet. Let us recall the revived corpses, the |
| + | celebrated Rolang-resurrection—which is nothing but a crude form of vampirism. Let us |
| + | recall the wandering spirits who kill and do all manner of evil; and they are often the |
| + | spirits of lamas. Let us recall all sorts of obsessions, how, under evil influences, |
| + | people are completely changed and temporarily fall into actual insanity. Let us recall |
| + | evil conjurations and invocations with which the lamas arm themselves to frighten the |
| + | ignorant people. Let us recall the suicidal magic daggers, dark fortune-telling, spells, |
| + | were-wolves, entities which have assumed the appearance of animals; and all kinds of |
| + | inventions of an evil will. First of all, such dark practices of lamas do not give very |
| + | good evidence of their uprightness. Second, the sorcerers of the Coast of Malabar |
| + | perform the entire black necromancy much more powerfully. They are known, feared, but no |
| + | one worships them and they are not regarded as sacred personages. Malabar “miracles” |
| + | antedate Tibetan magic. |
| + | |
| + | Many authors who have written about Tibet have called it the miracle of miracles. But |
| + | this title could refer only to old Tibet or is due to the misconception of those |
| + | writers, who have been hypnotized by tradition. Truly, one could rightly call a school |
| + | founded by Mahatmas a miracle. But for many years such a school has not existed. Now |
| + | individual Tibetan lamas possess the power to produce low forms of materialization, |
| + | levitation, manifestations of will, clairvoyance and clairaudience. It is the greatest |
| + | test of the lamas if when they doubt about you, you demand of them, “Ask your oracle |
| + | what I am thinking at present and what intention I have.” Then at once they become |
| + | confused. |
| + | |
| + | In the mountains some astonishing manifestations actually occur, but they have nothing |
| + | to do with the lamas. We recollect the incident of the remarkable fire in our tent, |
| + | which was repeated in Chang-thang. We recall the wave of heat amidst the cruel frosts. |
| + | We recall many manifestations of the higher energies. Truly it is remarkable just to |
| + | pass through those places where until recently there were Ashrams. |
| + | |
| + | It would be absurd to condemn the entire population of Tibet. The lamas again may become |
| + | educated. Again an enlightened government may appear. And people again may become |
| + | regenerate. Much of that which appears to us as fallen “has not as yet risen.” |
| + | |
| + | In the teaching of the Blessed One there are practical indications about the whole |
| + | routine of life. It is very easy to know and apply them. But now those who have |
| + | desecrated the high teaching, must understand that their criminal actions are condemned |
| + | and cannot continue. |
| + | |
| + | Tibet bids us farewell with sad news. Our three Torguts, Ochir, Dorje and Manji, forty |
| + | miles from Gyantse, were attacked by Tibetans. Two Torguts were killed and the third |
| + | wounded. They were robbed of their money and possessions. Hearing this, a well-born |
| + | Tibetan says, “Formerly the bandits were in the north of Tibet, but they infest the |
| + | entire country now.” Thus speak the good Tibetans with hopeless gestures. And how many |
| + | decent Tibetans and learned lamas must suffer because of the present conditions. |
| + | |
| + | There was another story that our Mongols reached Lhasa, but there they were seized and |
| + | thrown into the Tibetan jail. Anyhow, our poor Torguts experienced trouble. |
| + | |
| + | Another rumor: Poor Tzering, our Mongol, has suffered greatly. On the way from Nagchu to |
| + | Lhasa he was robbed and now is begging in the Lhasa bazaar. Our Buriat lamas already |
| + | dream of leaving Tibet. Jangin, Lama, Lama Tashi and Konchok safely reached home in |
| + | Sharagolchi, because they returned back from Nagchu at once. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetans who have come to Sikhim say: “Now comes the year of the dragon. The past |
| + | year was the year of the tiger and after that will be the year of the sheep. Will it not |
| + | be easier then?”—“According to the prophecy, the Tashi Lama will not return to Tibet |
| + | before three years.”—Much is being rumored. We are overtaken by our lama from Kharching. |
| + | He thought of remaining in Lhasa ten years but stayed only three months. With him three |
| + | other learned lamas from Tashi lhunpo are traveling. |
| + | |
| + | News from Sikhim. The monastery in Ghum is growing. Some new structures are being added. |
| + | The walls are covered with frescoes. The monasteries in Kalimpong and Kurseong are also |
| + | improving. Geshe Rinpoche is helping everywhere. He erects images of Maitreya. In Ghum |
| + | is the same abbot. Our artist, Geshe Lhariba, from Kham, is working as before. All is |
| + | friendly and good. |
| + | |
| + | I have been asked, “How shall you speak of Tibet after your experiences?” Truly I shall |
| + | praise what is full of light and shall condemn what is obscured in darkness. I shall not |
| + | forget that the Tashi Lama has aroused general reverence for himself—he who is the |
| + | spiritual ruler of Tibet and of whom only good is heard. Everywhere the Tibetans |
| + | themselves say of their country, “The customs of Panchen Rinpoche (Tashi Lama) were far |
| + | different.” And they await with eagerness the fulfillment of the prophecy about his |
| + | return when he will be the sole head of the Tibet and the true Teaching will again |
| + | flourish. Truly, one has the feeling that if the Tashi Lama were now in Tibet again, |
| + | things would be different! |
| + | |
| + | Thus we distinguish two Tibets: One is the Tibet of officialdom—of those officials of |
| + | whom the Tibetans themselves assert that their hearts are blacker than coal and harder |
| + | than stone. These are the ones who reflect so much prejudice and violence and falsehood, |
| + | who desecrate art and petrify learning with degeneracy. |
| + | |
| + | But we also discern another Tibet, even though it is smaller in numbers. This is the |
| + | Tibet of the few educated lamas and of an even smaller number of enlightened laymen. |
| + | This is the Tibet which guards the essence of the Teaching and aspires towards |
| + | enlightenment. It is the Tibet of its spiritual leaders. |
| + | |
| + | It is of course not enigmatic which Tibet is closer to our consciousness—the enlightened |
| + | ones we value, and may the obscured and corrupt ones disappear in their own darkness! |
| + | |
| + | In letters from America, friends have expressed their regret that the actions of Tibet |
| + | have urged the necessity of such strong criticisms. But Truth is not blindness; on the |
| + | contrary it must be far-sighted. Moreover, a small and valuable minority may yet produce |
| + | greater results than the dying, decomposed majority. |
| + | |
| + | The Himalayas and Sikhim enclose Tibet. Nowhere is there such glimmer, such spiritual |
| + | satiety as amidst these precious snows. Nowhere are there such qualifying expressions as |
| + | in the speech of Sikhim—to everything is added the word “heroism.” Man-heroes; |
| + | women-heroes; rock-heroes; trees-heroes; waterfall-heroes; eagle-heroes. Here to Sikhim |
| + | came great hermits because where could one, in two days’ travel, ascend from tropical |
| + | vegetation up to eternal snow. All grades of consciousness are here revealed. Friendly |
| + | is Sikhim. Friendly is the Maharajah of Sikhim. Friendly is the Resident. Friendly is |
| + | Laden La. And again we traverse the sacred valley of Tashi ding, as a trove of mystery |
| + | and treasures. This is considered a remarkable place by all Sikhim and Bhutan. And the |
| + | fine old abbot of Tashi ding is still alive but has aged and does not descend from his |
| + | sacred mountain. And again the proximity of great India. |
| + | |
| + | Again the Hindu sings: “How may I speak of the creator himself, if I know the |
| + | incomparable, inexpressible beauty of Himalayas?” |
| + | |
| + | It is told in the prophecies how the new era shall manifest itself: “First will begin an |
| + | unprecedented war of all nations. Afterward brother shall rise against brother. Oceans |
| + | of blood shall flow. And the people shall cease to understand one another. They shall |
| + | forget the meaning of the word, Teacher. But just then shall the Teachers appear and in |
| + | all corners of the world shall be heard the true teaching. To this word of truth shall |
| + | the people be drawn, but those who are filled with darkness and ignorance shall set |
| + | obstacles. As a diamond glows the light on the tower of the Lord of Shambhala. One stone |
| + | on his ring is worth more than all the world’s treasure. Even those who by accident help |
| + | the Teachings of Shambhala will receive in return a hundredfold. Already many warriors |
| + | of the teaching of truth are reincarnated. Only a few years shall elapse before every |
| + | one shall hear the mighty steps of the Lord of the New era. And one can already perceive |
| + | unusual manifestations and encounter unusual people. Already they open the gates of |
| + | knowledge and ripened fruits are falling from the trees.” |
| + | |
| + | Lama Rinpoche knows that on the north side of Kinchenjunga, there lies a cave. Very |
| + | narrow is the entrance to it, but it broadens and brings one into a whole city. The high |
| + | priest knows many things, and asks not to speak of them until the appointed time. The |
| + | consciousness of Geshe is profound. He possesses some clairvoyance. As if emerging from |
| + | a trance he talks of the most unexpected actions and persons who are at a great |
| + | distance. When we were freezing at Chang-thang and E.I. was ill, he unexpectedly said to |
| + | those near him: “How difficult it is for her! How she is suffering!” So we were later |
| + | told. Using the old custom of the high lamas, Geshe does not lie down to sleep but rests |
| + | in a seated posture. Geshe knows about Shambhala and its complete significance. He takes |
| + | care to revive the teachings. |
| + | |
| + | One more image of Shambhala, the Mandala of Shambhala will reveal to those who know some |
| + | hints of reality. On the top is Yi-dam as the sign of elemental power, and a figure of |
| + | that Tashi Lama who wrote the very secret book the Path of Shambhala. In the center of |
| + | the image the snow mountains form a circle. You can recognize three white borders. In |
| + | the center is a seeming valley with many edifices. One can distinguish two plans, as |
| + | though they were the plans of towers. On the tower is He Himself, Whose Light glows in |
| + | the predestined time. Below is the powerful legion leading victorious battle. The |
| + | victory of the spirit on the great field of life. |
| + | |
| + | The new era of enlightenment is awaited. Each reaches in his own way. One nearer, one |
| + | further; one beautifully, one distortedly; but all are concerned with the same |
| + | predestined. It is especially striking to see such consciousness at a time when not the |
| + | printed page, but sound itself—the human word—directs the lofty expectation. It is so |
| + | precious to hear and to repeat. The Motherland of Gessar Khan, Ladak, knows that the |
| + | time of the regeneration has come. Khotan remembers the Signs of Maitreya over the |
| + | ancient Stupa. The Kalmucks in Karashar are awaiting the coming manifestation of the |
| + | Chalice of Buddha. On Altai the Oirots renounce Shamanism and are singing new chants to |
| + | the Awaited White Burkhan. The Messenger of the White Burkhan, Oirot, already rides |
| + | throughout the world. The Mongols await the appearance of the Ruler of the World and |
| + | prepare the Dukang of Shambhala. On Chang-thang they extol Gessar Khan and whisper about |
| + | the hallowed borders of Shambhala. On the Brahmaputra they know about the Ashrams of |
| + | Mahatmas and remember the wonderful Azaras. The Jews await the Messiah at the Bridge. |
| + | The Moslems await Muntazar. In Isfahan the White Horse is already saddled. The |
| + | Christians of Saint Thomas await the great Advent and wear hidden signs. The Hindus know |
| + | the Kalki Avatar. And the Chinese at New Year light the fires before the image of Gessar |
| + | Khan, ruler of the World. Rigden Japo, the Ruler, is fleeting over the desert, achieving |
| + | his predestined path. A blind one may ask, “Is it so? Is there no exaggeration in it? |
| + | Perhaps some fragments of survivals are taken as beliefs of the future.” |
| + | |
| + | It means that he who questions has never been in the East. If you once were upon these |
| + | sites; if you traversed many thousands of miles; if you yourself have spoken to many |
| + | people, then you know the reality of what is related. You shall understand why, of these |
| + | sacred matters, one speaks only in the stillness of the evening, in quiet penetrating |
| + | tones. Why, if someone enters, do all become silent? But if you say to them that they |
| + | may continue the conversation in the presence of the guest your words will be met with a |
| + | reverent bow. And it is not you who receives the silent significant bow but the Great |
| + | Maitreya Himself. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,99 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 1 |
| + | |
| + | Inner Asia with its towering mountain ranges and limitless deserts and steppes, a |
| + | country of great climatic extremes, and the cradle of hardy nomad tribes that once shook |
| + | the frontiers of China and of the Near Eastern countries, has always been an endless |
| + | lure to the explorer. In the past a brilliant line of men inaugurated the fight for |
| + | geographical discoveries in the forbidden lands of Asia. The story of their achievement |
| + | is one of the most fascinating pages in the history of such explorations. Besides |
| + | securing valuable scientific information and opening new regions for the progress of |
| + | humanity, they upheld that spirit of adventure to which our civilization owes its |
| + | spread. Their example made it possible for others to continue the hazardous task of |
| + | conquest of distant and unknown lands. |
| + | |
| + | In inner Asia we are able to survey one of the grandest mountain systems of the world; |
| + | to journey for months across waterless deserts of sand and stone and upland plains; and |
| + | to study the vestiges of a past culture that once linked ancient China with the |
| + | countries of the Mediterranean basin. |
| + | |
| + | The vast, undrained area of inner Asia is buttressed on the south by the mighty |
| + | Trans-Himalayas, and the bleak highlands of the successive ranges of the Karakorum. Its |
| + | northern frontier is formed by the Altai and the mountain chains along the southern rim |
| + | of the Siberian lowlands. To the east and west this great inner basin is open toward |
| + | vast expanses of desert and steppe that comprise the Great Mongolian Gobi and the steppe |
| + | lands of Russian Turkestan. |
| + | |
| + | This inner region of Asia the Roerich Central Asian Expedition, under the leadership of |
| + | Professor Nicholas Roerich, traveled and explored for almost five successive years. The |
| + | chief object of the expedition was to create a pictorial record of lands and peoples of |
| + | inner Asia; the five hundred paintings by Professor Roerich, brought back by the |
| + | expedition and now on permanent exhibition in the Roerich Museum at New York, constitute |
| + | a unique achievement of this purpose. |
| + | |
| + | The second object of the expedition was to survey the possibilities for new |
| + | archaeological explorations and thus to prepare the way for future enterprises in the |
| + | same region. |
| + | |
| + | The third object was to secure an extensive collection of ethnographical and linguistic |
| + | material, illustrating the culture of these regions. During its long journey along the |
| + | T'ien Shan, the steppe region of Jungaria, the Altai, the mountains of southwestern |
| + | Mongolia, and the highlands of Tibet, the expedition surveyed numerous archaeological |
| + | sites; and it is hoped that another expedition may be mustered to carry out extensive |
| + | excavations of vast necropoli left by nomad tribes, which date back to the period |
| + | between the first and eighth centuries A.D. A large collection of Tibetan and Mongolian |
| + | books was gathered during the expedition's stay in Mongolia and Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | In sending out this expedition into the field, the Trustees of the Roerich Museum felt |
| + | the growing necessity of an active American participation in a work which for several |
| + | decades had attracted the attention of prominent scientists in Great Britain, France, |
| + | Germany, Japan, and Russia. |
| + | |
| + | The expedition left New York in May, 1923, and in December of the same year reached |
| + | Darjeeling in British Sikkim. Here a base was established and several trips were |
| + | conducted into Sikkim. The whole of 1924 was spent in Sikkim in preparation for the more |
| + | extensive journey into inner Asia. It was imperative to acquire a good speaking |
| + | knowledge of the Tibetan language before starting on a journey which would require |
| + | constant relations with natives. The narrative in the present volume begins with the |
| + | moment of the expedition's departure from Darjeeling. |
| + | |
| + | During his five years of active field service with the expedition, the author profited |
| + | on many occasions by the help and advice of friends and it is a pleasant task to convey |
| + | his appreciative thanks for the services they so willingly rendered: |
| + | |
| + | To the President and Board of Trustees of the Roerich Museum, for their devoted care and |
| + | friendly assistance during the expedition's perilous journey. |
| + | |
| + | To Col. F. M. Bailey, C.I.E., British Political Officer in Tibet, Sikkim, and Bhutan, |
| + | for his valuable help during the expedition's stay in Sikkim and on its return from |
| + | Tibet in 1928. |
| + | |
| + | To Major Gillan, British Consul General at Kashgar, for his active assistance during a |
| + | most trying period in Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | To His Excellency M. Louis Marin, for his ever helpful assistance and for contributing |
| + | an introduction to this present volume. |
| + | |
| + | To my teacher, Professor Jacques Bacot, who first introduced me into the ancient lore of |
| + | Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | To my friend, Dr. Georges G. Chklaver, of the University of Paris, for his untiring |
| + | interest in my exploration work and his trusted friendship. |
| + | |
| + | To Dr. Johan van Manen, learned Secretary of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, who placed |
| + | at my disposal the resources of the library of the Society at Calcutta. |
| + | |
| + | To Lama Lobzang Mingyur Dorje, my teacher and friend, for his untiring help in my |
| + | Tibetan studies. |
| + | |
| + | To Mr. Malcolm W. Davis, editor of the Yale University Press, in appreciation of his |
| + | interest in this publication. |
| + | |
| + | Last, but not least, I wish to record my admiration and gratitude to all the European |
| + | and native members of the Roerich Central Asian Expedition, who unfailingly carried out |
| + | their duties under most trying conditions. |
| + | |
| + | I dedicate this volume to my Mother and Father, who guided me on the path of exploration |
| + | and since my boyhood inspired me in the quest for new discoveries and new knowledge. |
| + | |
| + | June, 1931. |
| + | G. N. R. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,67 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 10 |
| + | |
| + | On April 13, 1927, everyone in the expedition rose before dawn. We hoped to start early |
| + | in order to cover as much ground as possible. The first stretch of the route lay along |
| + | the valley of the Tola River and according to our informants was comparatively easy for |
| + | laden cars. The three trucks of the expedition were loaded the day before, and there |
| + | remained the two Dodge touring cars destined for the members of the expedition and their |
| + | light baggage which was to be tied on the running boards. By eleven o'clock |
| + | everything was ready and the large gates of the expedition headquarters were opened to |
| + | let the cars out. Friends, both Europeans and Mongols, assembled to bid farewell and |
| + | Godspeed to the members of the expedition. The Mongols were chatting with their |
| + | relatives, and lamas were seen murmuring their prayers and hanging ceremonial scarfs or |
| + | khatags on the expedition cars. Our Tibetans were surrounded by a crowd of their |
| + | countrymen who had come to see us off. The Tibetan personnel of the expedition was very |
| + | proud of the rifles and insisted on riding with fixed bayonets, decorated with khatags |
| + | attached to the rifle barrel. Our men looked very martial in their khaki fur coats and |
| + | ammunition belts. The whole presented a colorful scene, in which were blended European |
| + | and Asiatic elements. |
| + | |
| + | Suddenly a disagreeable surprise was sprung by one of the motor car drivers. The man had |
| + | forgotten to renew his Mongol passport and obtain a frontier pass for his car. Two weeks |
| + | before our departure we had warned the drivers to have all their papers ready before |
| + | April 13. Only two days before I had asked the men if they had done so and they all |
| + | assured me that they had passports for themselves and frontier passes for their cars. |
| + | The whole affair was very disagreeable for we had to postpone our departure until late |
| + | in the afternoon and rush to the Government Transport Office to get the required passes |
| + | without which the custom authorities would not allow the expedition cars to leave the |
| + | city. There was no probability that the required motor car passes would be obtained in |
| + | such a short time. The usual procedure took about three or four days. But thanks to the |
| + | untiring help of our Mongol friends and the courtesy of the Mongolian Minister of |
| + | Finance, they were issued and signed. |
| + | |
| + | About five o'clock the expedition convoy of cars started on its long track across |
| + | the western Gobi. For some distance it was accompanied by our friends and co-workers, |
| + | Mr. and Mrs. Lichtmann of New York, and Dr. Jamtsarano, secretary of the Mongolian |
| + | Scientific Committee, and other friends from Urga. |
| + | |
| + | At a point beyond the Tola River bridge, we all alighted from our cars and bade a last |
| + | farewell to the civilized world and our American friends who were to return by airplane |
| + | from Urga to Verkhne-Udinsk. |
| + | |
| + | "Greetings to all friends in New York! Await our future news!" were the last |
| + | words of Professor Roerich, when the expedition column started westward along the valley |
| + | of the Tola. The heavily loaded trucks with men perched on top of the loads moved on |
| + | like huge monsters. |
| + | |
| + | For the first five miles the route was good, notwithstanding the melting snow that made |
| + | it muddy and slippery. On the seventh mile we ran into a thick patch of snow; one of our |
| + | touring cars sank deep into it and had to be rescued. We all tried to pull it out, but |
| + | met with little success. The hind wheels were buried deep. Meanwhile the three trucks, |
| + | which delayed a little at the Tola River bridge chose another circuit route following |
| + | the bank of the Tola River and were now some distance ahead of us. We fired several |
| + | shots to attract their attention. One of the trucks stopped and men came running with |
| + | spades and ropes to our assistance. It took some time before they reached the spot where |
| + | the car was stuck. With united efforts we pulled it out and were able to continue the |
| + | journey. It was getting late and we could hardly see the road ahead of us. About ten |
| + | o'clock in the evening we decided to camp close to the river bank under some willow |
| + | trees. These were the last trees we saw in outer Mongolia. The day's march was |
| + | short, only some twenty miles, but we were all glad to be again in open country and feel |
| + | the desert ahead of us. |
| + | |
| + | After considerable hustle in the darkness, all the tents were pitched and we could look |
| + | for a well-deserved rest after a tiresome day. Some six miles away on the farther bank |
| + | of the river we could see the dim lights of the Sangin Veterinary Station. Southeast of |
| + | our camp rose the western offshoots of the massive Bogdo ula and toward the southwest |
| + | were the dim outlines of rolling hills, through which lay the valley of the Tola. The |
| + | night was beautifully clear but bitterly cold, the thermometer registering some -25°C. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,33 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 11 |
| + | |
| + | Next day we made an early start and by eight o'clock the camels were watered and |
| + | loaded. It usually took us some two hours to start our large caravan in marching order. |
| + | |
| + | After crossing the gravel plain in a southerly direction, we entered low sandy hills |
| + | that stretched for more than five miles. These hills bordered the gravel plain on the |
| + | southeast and south. South of this belt of sandstone hills and sand dunes lay a broad |
| + | sandy plain covered by loess and *deresün* grass (*Lasiagrostis splendens*). We found here several Mongol encampments belonging to the same *khoshun* as |
| + | the Yum-beise Monastery. As in all frontier districts of central Asia, the population of |
| + | the tents was extremely varied. We came across Torguts from the Mongolian Altai, Khalkha |
| + | Mongols from at least half a dozen *khoshun* or tribal divisions and several Amdo |
| + | Tibetans, who had settled in the district. Some of them proved to be former lamas of the |
| + | great Kumbum Monastery in the Sining district of Kansu Province. |
| + | |
| + | After crossing the grass-covered plain, we came to a river flowing northwest by |
| + | southeast. It was a tiny stream on whose banks were pitched a number of Mongol tents. |
| + | Here we were offered a fine white camel for sale. Unfortunately the animal was too young |
| + | for a long route but the Mongols insisted on our buying it. White camels are popularly |
| + | considered to be the best present to offer to one of the great Lama Pontiffs of Tibet. |
| + | We refused, fearing that the animal was too young and would not stand the long journey |
| + | to Tibet. We had to take some water from the river for we were told that there was no |
| + | water on the route. |
| + | |
| + | After fording the river we entered into an intersected hilly region of low relief. Here |
| + | and there one could see outcroppings of granite, porphyry and other rocks. After a long |
| + | march of twenty-five miles, we camped in a circular depression among hills, well |
| + | sheltered from the frequent winds that level the landscape. So far, the weather had been |
| + | mild and the days even warm. The locality of our camp bore the name of Khara Boro, and |
| + | was said to receive a considerable amount of rain during the rainy months of the summer. |
| + | Naturally we had no opportunity to test this statement of our guides. The numerous dry |
| + | basins of miniature lakes found between the hills seemed to indicate a large amount of |
| + | rain at some season of the year. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,405 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 12 |
| + | |
| + | The vastnesses of inner Asia give rise sometimes to strange personalities, who exercise |
| + | a mysterious influence on their fellow men. I shall relate in the present chapter the |
| + | story of Ja Lama, reincarnation of Amursana, the great west Mongolian leader of the |
| + | eighteenth century. Ten-pei Jal-tsen (bsTan-pa'i rgyal-mtshan) or simply Ja Lama was |
| + | one of the characteristic and leading figures of the Mongol National Revolution in |
| + | 1911-12. His life is veiled in mystery and no one knows exactly where he came from and |
| + | what his ambitions were. It is extremely difficult to piece together all the existing |
| + | information about his life, so varied were his activities and so extensive were his |
| + | travels. The arena of his activity was the whole of Asia, from Astrakhan to Peking and |
| + | from Urga to distant India. I succeeded in collecting information about him and his life |
| + | from Mongol and Tibetan lamas and laymen whom fate brought into contact with the dreaded |
| + | warrior-priest. This singular personality for some thirty-five years hypnotized the |
| + | whole of greater Mongolia. Even at present, some six years after the death of the man, |
| + | Mongols feel an unholy dread of him and worship him as a militant incarnation of one of |
| + | their national leaders. I have often been asked by Mongols in Khalkha Mongolia and in |
| + | Tsaidam, whether the man was a burkhan or "divine being," or a mighty brigand |
| + | chief, incarnation of a powerful demon. The simple-minded nomads are still unable to |
| + | decide this question and various are the explanations put forth. |
| + | |
| + | Although Ja Lama's activity, strange as it was, reminds us more of the life of a |
| + | great brigand chief, we must say that the man had some imagination and that he tried to |
| + | work along national lines. |
| + | |
| + | This fantastic personality was a very versatile man. He built castles in the heart of |
| + | the south Mongolian Gobi, studied abstruse treatises on Buddhist metaphysics, personally |
| + | trained his men in the science of war, and dreamed of conquest and the regeneration of |
| + | Mongolian tribes. |
| + | |
| + | He is credited with having possessed miraculous power which, however, did not help him |
| + | when he was shot dead by a Mongol officer. A portrait of him was given by F. Ossendowski |
| + | in his *Men, Beasts, and Gods* where he appears as lama avenger under the name of |
| + | Tushe-Gun Lama. |
| + | |
| + | His real name was Pal-den (dPal-ldan). He was born in the Astrakhan Province of southern |
| + | Russia and belonged to the Baga Dörböt *ulus* or tribe. In his early boyhood he |
| + | was brought to Mongolia, and entered as a novice in the great Lamasery of Dolon-nor on |
| + | the Chinese border. From here he traveled to far distant Tibet and spent many years at |
| + | the Go-mang (mGo-mang) College or *da-tshang* of the great Lhasan Monastery of |
| + | Dre-pung ('Bras-dpung), where most of the Mongolian lamas reside. |
| + | |
| + | It was probably during his stay in Tibet that he visited India, and the holy places of |
| + | Buddhism. His knowledge of Tibetan monasteries and life was vast and he had many stories |
| + | to tell about his fights with the Golok brigands. |
| + | |
| + | From his youth, he manifested an ambitious, impetuous, and cruel character. It is |
| + | generally said that he killed his roommate in the monastery because of a dispute and had |
| + | to flee from Lhasa in order to escape from the stern monastic law. This fact is |
| + | generally known in Tibet and Mongolia. It seems that the murder was the crucial point of |
| + | his life for from then on begins his life as an errant warrior-monk, full of wonderful |
| + | adventures, messianic prophecies, and cruel deeds. |
| + | |
| + | People who knew him well, affirm that his knowledge of Buddhist metaphysics and secret |
| + | Tantric teachings was unusually vast and it seems that he enjoyed a high reputation |
| + | among the high lamas of Mongolia. According to his own words, he served as one of the Ta |
| + | Lamas or Heads of Departments in the Chang-skya Hutukhu *yamen* at Peking, a |
| + | learned ecclesiastical institution intrusted with the fixing of the calendar and other |
| + | astronomical and metaphysical questions. |
| + | |
| + | Ja Lama had many stories to tell about his extensive travels in India, China, Tibet, and |
| + | Mongolia. He was well versed in the Tibetan, Mongolian, and Chinese languages and knew |
| + | some Sanskrit and Russian. Lamas told me that he had studied at the Faculty of |
| + | Jurisprudence of the St. Petersburg University, but I doubt the correctness of this |
| + | report. In any case, his knowledge seemed unusually vast, and he possessed reliable |
| + | information about the countries he professed to have visited. Mongols generally affirm |
| + | that he had a tremendous will power and could easily hypnotize people. |
| + | |
| + | Ja Lama's first public appearance in outer Mongolia dates back to 1890. Professor |
| + | Pozdneev in his valuable *Mongolia and the Mongols* gave a brief account of the |
| + | early activity of the lama. During his visit to the important Lamasery of |
| + | Amur-baishalantu, he heard from a local petty official the story about a great lama who |
| + | appeared in Mongolia in the autumn of 1890 and traveled from Dzin-dzilik, frontier |
| + | station to Uliassutai and from there to Urga. The lama wore a fur cap surmounted by a |
| + | golden *vajra* and freely distributed gold and golden coins to poor people. He |
| + | said everywhere that he was Ten-pei Jal-tsen, son of Temür-sana, who was in his turn the |
| + | son of the famous Amursana. In other places he maintained that he was not only the |
| + | descendant of Amursana but also his incarnation and that he reappeared to liberate |
| + | Mongolia from the Chinese yoke. The nomads easily believed his words and crowds of |
| + | people gathered on *urtön* or relay stations to greet the Incarnated Lama. They |
| + | kotowed before him and paid him deep veneration. |
| + | |
| + | Two influential Mongolian Incarnate Lamas, Jahantsa Hutukhtu and Ilgusan Hutukhtu, |
| + | joined his cause and were afterward suspected by the Chinese authorities. In order to |
| + | free these high church dignitaries, two simple lamas took upon themselves the guilt and |
| + | were sentenced to death by the Chinese. On the eve of their execution the lamas poisoned |
| + | themselves. |
| + | |
| + | The Chinese authorities, who became uneasy at the spread of Ja Lama's propaganda, |
| + | approached the Imperial Russian Consul in Urga, with the request to arrest him. The |
| + | Chinese request was granted and the adventurous monk was arrested on reaching Urga and |
| + | deported to Kiakhta. For the next year nothing is heard of Ja Lama. It appears that his |
| + | forced stay in Russia was a very brief one and that he managed to escape to Tibet or |
| + | southern Mongolia, for about the end of 1891 he reappeared in outer Mongolia, traveling |
| + | on two magnificent white camels, and became known among the Mongols as Hoir-temete Lama |
| + | or "the lama with two camels." He was again arrested by Chinese authorities |
| + | and transported to Uliassutai for further investigation. He refused to answer questions, |
| + | but produced a passport in the name of the Astrakhan Kalmuck Ten-pei Jal-tsen. |
| + | |
| + | The Chinese contented themselves with the examination of his papers and finally let him |
| + | go without examining his baggage. From Uliassutai, Ja Lama went to Kobdo, and spent |
| + | there several months. From Kobdo he traveled back to Uliassutai and then to Urga where |
| + | he was for the second time arrested and deported to Kiakhta. |
| + | |
| + | After this date he disappears for a period of ten years. Nothing is heard about him |
| + | during this period but it seems that he made frequent trips to the Tsaidam and |
| + | northeastern Tibet. The Kurluk Mongols of Tsaidam remember having frequently seen him |
| + | traveling by the west Tsaidam route through Mahai with two pack ponies and only one |
| + | attendant. It seems that he did not sever his connections with Tibet and that he paid |
| + | subsequent visits to the capital of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | He reappeared in 1900 as guide of General P. K. Kozlov's expedition to the Kham |
| + | Province in Tibet. At that time he was known by the name of She-rap (Shes-rab) Lama. The |
| + | expedition was stopped on the No-mo chu by Tibetan authorities, notwithstanding the fact |
| + | that General Kozlov carried presents from the Emperor of Russia to the Dalai Lama. |
| + | General Kozlov deputed She-rap Lama, alias Ja Lama, to proceed to negotiate with the |
| + | Tibetan authorities. It seems that Ja Lama never rejoined the expedition and somehow |
| + | found his way to Karashahr in Chinese Turkestan where he stopped with the local Torgut |
| + | Prince. From Karashahr, he traveled to Kobdo and Urga, from where he was again sent in |
| + | search of the Kozlov Expedition. |
| + | |
| + | After this he disappears for another ten years. We are in complete ignorance as to his |
| + | doings during this period. In 1910 he suddenly reappeared in Karashahr. According to the |
| + | statement of Mr. Kryajev, a Russian merchant trading in Karashahr, Ja Lama's outward |
| + | appearance was considerably changed. Formerly he wore a beard, now he was clean-shaven. |
| + | Under his yellow lama coat, he wore some sort of European military uniform. After a |
| + | prolonged stay in Karashahr, he departed for Kobdo and in the spring of 1912 he suddenly |
| + | appeared at Hangeltsik in the camp of the Dörböt Prince Tümen-Gun. |
| + | |
| + | It was said since 1890 that Ja Lama was an incarnation of the great Amursana (who died |
| + | in 1755 A.D.). An ancient prophecy was whispered that at the time of the new war of |
| + | liberation between Mongols and Chinese, a leader would appear under the name of Ten-pei |
| + | Jal-tsen, who would be the true incarnation of Amursana and would restore the old |
| + | kingdom of the Oirat. All who know the magic influence exercised by prophecies among |
| + | Buddhists of inner Asia, will easily understand the success of Ja Lama. His reappearance |
| + | in the Kobdo district caused a great stir among the nomad population. Crowds of people |
| + | gathered round the new leader, who continued to preach fervently the holy war against |
| + | the oppressing Chinese. |
| + | |
| + | In a short time Ja Lama collected round himself a strong body of armed men and prepared |
| + | himself to take an active part in the fighting for autonomous Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | The fortresses of Urga and Uliassutai fell, and were occupied by Mongol detachments. A |
| + | summons was sent to the Manchu Governor of Kobdo to hand over the keys of the fortress |
| + | gates. The officer refused to comply with the orders from Urga and closed the gates of |
| + | the fort. He had at his disposal some thousand soldiers and Chinese militiamen and |
| + | prepared himself to fight the advancing troops. On receiving the answer from the |
| + | Governor of Kobdo, Ja Lama proclaimed war against the Chinese garrison there. |
| + | |
| + | A huge mounted horde of Mongols, Uriangkhis, Dörböts, and Torguts, some five thousand |
| + | strong, was quickly mustered by Ja Lama, who led them against the fortress of Kobdo. The |
| + | steppes of Mongolia again witnessed squadrons of cavalry marching toward the sunset. |
| + | Here were Khalkha Mongols in their peculiar high hats, in yellow and purple coats, armed |
| + | with Mauser carbines and Berdane rifles, Chakhar Mongols in small round caps and yellow |
| + | coats and cartridge belts heavily ornamented with silver, Soyots from Uriangkhai in |
| + | pointed fur caps and fur coats, Torguts from the Bulugun with blue handkerchiefs on |
| + | their heads and green coats and leather sandals. The advancing troops were officially |
| + | commanded by Prince Surun-Gun, but in reality the whole undertaking was inspired and |
| + | directed by Ja Lama. This happened in May, 1912. |
| + | |
| + | On August 6, 1912, the fortress of Kobdo fell and the city was burned and its Chinese |
| + | inhabitants massacred. The Russian Consul and his guard succeeded in saving some of the |
| + | Chinese from the wrath of the conqueror, and deported them to Biisk in the Russian Altai |
| + | for further transportation to China. After the destruction of Kobdo, and the massacre of |
| + | the Chinese colony, some ten Chinese and Mohammedan traders were slaughtered in a secret |
| + | ritual under orders of Ja Lama. Ten human breasts were cut open and the hearts torn out |
| + | by Ja Lama himself who afterward consecrated the Mongol war banners with human blood and |
| + | sprinkled it over the troops. |
| + | |
| + | The Chinese authorities of the adjacent Hsin-chiang Province were greatly alarmed by the |
| + | success of the militant priest and troops were dispatched in all haste from |
| + | Ku-ch'eng and Shara-sümä. They did not reach Kobdo, but camped at a place called |
| + | Tsagan Tonke, some two hundred miles southwest of Kobdo, and remained there for the |
| + | winter. The Mongol troops under Ja Lama and his allies remained in a fortified camp on |
| + | the Mongol side of the Ulan-daban Pass but dispersed in 1913 after the withdrawal of the |
| + | Chinese troops. The German traveler H. Consten in his recently published book on |
| + | Mongolia, *Die Weideplätze der Mongolen*, Vol. II, gives a vivid description of |
| + | the Mongol fortified camp at the Ulan-daban. He did not meet Ja Lama personally but was |
| + | very much impressed by the rigid discipline in the camp and the general cleanliness and |
| + | order of the place, quite unusual among Mongols. He was told that it was under the |
| + | complete control of Ja Lama, who took strong measures to keep it clean and the troops |
| + | disciplined. |
| + | |
| + | For his great services rendered to the new Mongol state, Ja Lama received the title of |
| + | *Tushe-Gun*, and subsequently was created *Nomun Khan Hutukhtu*. An entire |
| + | *khoshun* was assigned to him on the Kobdo River, some sixty miles from the town |
| + | of Kobdo, and his allies presented him with a great quantity of horses, cattle and even |
| + | men. He thus became the military governor of Kobdo, and one of the strongest princes of |
| + | all Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | In his *khoshun* he introduced a number of innovations and in this the |
| + | many-sidedness of his character found expression. He introduced among his followers |
| + | agriculture and even ordered some agricultural machinery from Russia. He ordered his men |
| + | to build permanent houses, to collect hay for the winter months and to wear Russian |
| + | boots. He established several schools and organized a model monastery with strict rules. |
| + | He limited the number of lamas by drafting many of them into his troops. He trained his |
| + | troops according to European methods. He tried to improve the breed of Mongol horses and |
| + | horned cattle and ordered horses and cattle from Russia. |
| + | |
| + | He was extremely cruel to his enemies and seldom trusted his followers. It is told about |
| + | him that he personally tortured prisoners by cutting strips of skin from their backs and |
| + | branding them with a red hot iron. The Ulankom Monastery once revolted against his |
| + | innovations and several lamas were flogged to death. He tortured a Russian merchant in |
| + | order to obtain an avowal from him. All the Mongol princes in the Kobdo region dreaded |
| + | him and even attended him as ordinary servants, saddling his horses and holding the |
| + | stirrup for him. |
| + | |
| + | Ja Lama continued to rule his *khoshun* until 1914 when a misunderstanding with |
| + | the officer commanding the Russian consular guard in Kobdo resulted in his sudden arrest |
| + | and deportation to Russia. |
| + | |
| + | Early in 1914 reports were received by Russian authorities confirming stories of |
| + | cruelties performed by Ja Lama. On February 6, 1914, Captain Bulatov was ordered to |
| + | proceed with half a squadron of Siberian Cossacks to the Kobdo district in western |
| + | Mongolia and to bring to an end the Ja Lama movement. After several successful fights, |
| + | the Cossack detachment succeeded in capturing Ja Lama himself and checked for a time his |
| + | ruthless rule. The Cossacks brought back with them two complete human skins of persons |
| + | who had been flayed by orders of Ja Lama. One of these skins belonged to Khaisan, a |
| + | Kirghiz headman in the Mongolian Altai. Ja Lama and the Kirghiz tribesmen had had a feud |
| + | for several years over some grazing grounds in the higher mountain valleys of the Altai. |
| + | The bitter tribal warfare continued until the local Kirghiz headman was captured and |
| + | imprisoned by Ja Lama. The family of the prisoner offered at once a large ransom and Ja |
| + | Lama agreed to have him released. When the mother of the Kirghiz headman arrived in Ja |
| + | Lama's camp bringing with her all her personal possessions—gold, silver, precious |
| + | stones, and costly furs, the Mongol chief greeted her most kindly and requested her to |
| + | wait. While he was chatting with the woman and examining the rich ransom, his men were |
| + | flaying Khaisan alive. The operation was begun with his feet and the executioners had |
| + | orders to proceed with their work slowly in order to finish with the skinning while the |
| + | sufferer was still alive. But the man died during the operation. The skin was stretched |
| + | on a log of wood and delivered to the unfortunate mother. The old woman lost her mind at |
| + | the sight and the broad, dark face of the bandit grinned with satisfaction. |
| + | |
| + | Such is the official story of one of Ja Lama's famous deeds of cruelty which is |
| + | still told under the nomad tents of the Mongolian Altai. |
| + | |
| + | He was first imprisoned in the Tomsk Prison for one year and afterward exiled to the |
| + | Yakut region. From there he was transferred to Astrakhan where he remained imprisoned |
| + | until 1918. The Revolution in 1917-18 liberated him and he at once reappeared in |
| + | Mongolia on the Selenga. He was acclaimed by his former followers and after visiting his |
| + | friend and helper, Jahantsa Hutukhtu, of Uliassutai, he settled for some time in the |
| + | camp of his former assistant, Jal-tsen Beise in southwest Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | The Urga Government felt rather uneasy about the reappearance of the militant monk and |
| + | issued orders for his immediate arrest. Ja Lama was forced to leave Mongolian territory. |
| + | He chose for his new camp a secluded place on the northern slopes of the Baga Ma-tzu |
| + | Shan some 250 miles south of Yum-beise-sümä in the very heart of the Mongolian Gobi. |
| + | Many of his former followers flocked to his new camp and he soon had about 500 tents |
| + | around him. |
| + | |
| + | From this date the dreaded robber activity of Ja Lama and his well-armed bands begin. |
| + | The national leader of Mongolia, the lama-avenger, became a robber chief. He organized a |
| + | strong body of well-armed men, regardless of their past, and all sorts of outlaws, |
| + | Chinese deserters, Mongol brigands, Tibetan contrabandists, Kirghiz horse thieves and |
| + | Torgut hunters, gathered under his banners. With such a force at his disposal, Ja Lama |
| + | stirred up constant troubles on the southwestern Mongolian border. His mounted |
| + | detachments were persistently on the move, harassing Mongol encampments and spying upon |
| + | governmental officials and their moves. None was allowed to follow unmolested the |
| + | caravan route Yum-beise-An-hsi. Robber bands searched the neighboring country day and |
| + | night and strong-armed posts were stationed in the narrow gorges where the numerous |
| + | caravans had to pass. For several years the trade route was considered closed because of |
| + | the activity of Ja Lama and his followers. |
| + | |
| + | In 1919 the An-fu troops of China under General Hsü occupied outer Mongolia. Chinese |
| + | garrisons were stationed in Urga, Uliassutai, and even penetrated into Russian |
| + | territory, and occupied the frontier towns of Kiakhta and Troitskosavsk, killing many of |
| + | the civil population. |
| + | |
| + | The Mongols could not tolerate the new invasion of their territory. Detachments of |
| + | Mongol partisans began the fight, and Ja Lama again took an active part. In the spring |
| + | of 1920 his troops attacked the Chinese in southwestern Mongolia and inflicted severe |
| + | losses. It is said that Ja Lama coöperated with Baron Ungern von Sternberg, who in |
| + | January, 1921, defeated the Chinese troops and occupied Urga. |
| + | |
| + | After the defeat of Baron Ungern's troops by the Mongol National forces in the |
| + | summer of 1921, and the establishment of the new order in Mongolia, Ja Lama became the |
| + | central figure among the supporters of the old order. He opened friendly relations with |
| + | the Chinese authorities of Hsin-chiang and Koko-khoto and had friendly intercourse with |
| + | the late Prince of the Kurluk Mongols in northern Tsaidam. |
| + | |
| + | His influence was still great among the nomads of the Kobdo region, and he was planning |
| + | a campaign against Urga in order to crush the opposition of the Mongol Government to his |
| + | warlike plans. He still cherished the hope to reconstruct a mighty state in inner Asia, |
| + | including Mongolia, Tibet, and Chinese Turkestan. |
| + | |
| + | In order to strengthen his position, he constructed a fortified castle of strange |
| + | architecture, a mixture of Turkestan and Tibetan styles, surrounded by walls and watch |
| + | towers, that crowned the neighboring hills. The place is known to Mongols by the name of |
| + | Ten-pei Jal-tsen baishin or "The House of Ten-pei Jal-tsen." Prisoners were |
| + | employed in erecting the fortress, a striking achievement considering the remoteness of |
| + | the place. It is situated on the northern slopes of the Baga Ma-tzu Shan Mountains. The |
| + | surrounding country is very hilly and is an ideal hiding place for robber bands. Scant |
| + | vegetation on the stream banks and at the foot of the hills, afforded sufficient grazing |
| + | to the herds of cattle and horses belonging to Ja Lama and his followers. |
| + | |
| + | The garrison of the fortress consisted of some 500 men more or less disciplined and |
| + | trained. Most of the men were armed with old Berdane rifles, German Mauser carbines, and |
| + | automatic pistols, and some Japanese Arisaka rifles, which they obtained from the |
| + | Chinese. After the establishment of a Mongol government conducted by the Mongol |
| + | People's Party, many supporters of the old *régime* in Mongolia, and some of |
| + | the Mongol Princes, joined the troops of Ja Lama and became known by the name of Tsagan |
| + | Mongol or White Mongols. |
| + | |
| + | Everyone dreaded the daring lama, who combined in himself the fame of a military leader |
| + | with the humility of a monk. He used to bless and give religious admonitions to people, |
| + | while his men were ruthlessly massacring pilgrims. |
| + | |
| + | Caravan animals and goods were usually confiscated and the personnel of the caravan |
| + | massacred. Those who were left alive became slaves of Ja Lama and his followers. A |
| + | Mongol lama told me how on his way from Mongolia to Tibet, in 1920, his party was |
| + | suddenly attacked by Ja Lama. All the laymen present in the caravan were murdered on the |
| + | spot and all the arms and goods taken away. Only the various lamas were allowed to |
| + | continue their way on foot, destitute of everything. Several of them died afterward, |
| + | unable to stand privations and reach the inhabited parts of Kansu. |
| + | |
| + | A Tibetan trade agent, who went to Mongolia to trade on behalf of the Tashi-lhun-po |
| + | labrang, was caught on his way to Yum-beise, and imprisoned in the fortified camp of Ja |
| + | Lama. He never recovered his freedom but died in captivity. A survivor of his caravan |
| + | told me that most of the caravan men had been slaughtered and that those who were spared |
| + | had their ears cut off and had to work as Ja Lama's slaves. |
| + | |
| + | In such a way Ja Lama collected round himself a mixed crowd of people. Tibetan officials |
| + | and traders, Mongol pilgrims, lamas, and laymen, political enemies of Ja Lama, Chinese |
| + | traders from An-hsi and Koko-khoto, Kirghiz headmen from the Mongolian Altai—all had to |
| + | work erecting buildings and constructing towers and walls in the burning heat of the |
| + | Mongolian desert. Some of the prisoners spent years in the service of Ja Lama and even |
| + | joined his troops in order to escape from the barbarous treatment. Others succeeded in |
| + | escaping, but a great many died from hardships, for not all could stand the treatment at |
| + | the hands of Ja Lama's men. |
| + | |
| + | A Tsaidam Mongol once told me the story of his captivity and escape from the camp of Ja |
| + | Lama. He was traveling with a Tibetan caravan of traders to whom he had hired his |
| + | camels, across the Gobi some hundred miles northeast of An-hsi. Everything went well and |
| + | they hoped to come out safely, when suddenly a band of mounted men swept from the |
| + | neighboring hills. For a few moments everything was turmoil. The brigands dashed here |
| + | and there on their swift horses, killing the camel drivers, and driving off the caravan |
| + | animals. The head of the caravan, a wealthy Tibetan merchant, was one of the first to |
| + | fall while defending his belongings. Some of the Mongol drivers were spared and taken to |
| + | the robbers' camp. For several months they had to work for Ja Lama collecting fuel |
| + | and preparing bricks for his large building projects. Many of them, unaccustomed to hard |
| + | labor, fell ill and died. Others contrived to escape. My informant stabbed one of the |
| + | guards and escaped with the guard's rifle. The country was well known to him and he |
| + | had no difficulty in hiding himself. Such are the stories told about Ja Lama and the |
| + | prison life in his camp. |
| + | |
| + | In September, 1922, an extensive political plot was discovered in Urga and a number of |
| + | influential persons including several former ministers were arrested. The official |
| + | Mongolian *communiqué* states that all these persons had secret relations with Ja |
| + | Lama, with the intention of arranging an advance of the Chinese troops. |
| + | |
| + | After again defeating the troops under Baron Ungern, the Mongols, in order to pacify |
| + | their southwestern border, decided to exterminate Ja Lama and his bands. A |
| + | Russo-Mongolian detachment searched the Gobi for him and even penetrated as far as the |
| + | Nan Shan, north of the Koko-nor. In the beginning of 1923, the Urga Government |
| + | dispatched several squadrons of cavalry under the command of Balden Dorje (dPal-ldan |
| + | rDo-rje) a noted Mongolian military leader, to check the movement of Ja Lama. The troops |
| + | expected to meet with a strong resistance and advanced carefully in order not to alarm |
| + | the enemy's posts. Balden Dorje decided to take the fortress by stratagem, instead |
| + | of storming it. Leaving his troops encamped some two days' journey from the fortress |
| + | of Ja Lama, Balden Dorje and a soldier rode to the camp. They pretended to be pilgrims |
| + | and requested to be allowed to present a ceremonial scarf to Ja Lama. For some reason |
| + | they were allowed to appear before him. They met him in a Mongol tent pitched in the |
| + | courtyard of his castle. Balden Dorje approached the lama with a ceremonial scarf and |
| + | shot him with a pistol hidden beneath it. Ja Lama fell dead. His followers were unable |
| + | to offer resistance, for Ja Lama, in common with many other Asiatic leaders, kept all |
| + | the arms and ammunition in his tent and distributed them to his followers only when |
| + | needed. The tent with the arsenal was held by Balden Dorje and his companion, and the |
| + | panic-stricken followers had no choice but to submit or disperse. |
| + | |
| + | The advancing troops occupied the fortress without a single shot and burned it, for the |
| + | ruins of the castle still bear traces of flames. Some of the followers of Ja Lama were |
| + | executed, others recognized the authority of the Urga Government. All the property of Ja |
| + | Lama, his arms and ammunition, were requisitioned by the Mongol troops. Some 2,000 sheep |
| + | were distributed among the slaves of Ja Lama, who were living in utter poverty. |
| + | |
| + | Ja Lama's head was cut off and carried on a lance to Uliassutai, where it was |
| + | exhibited to the populace in the bazaar square. Because of its white hair, the severed |
| + | head became known under the name of Tsagan Tologoi or "White Head" and a large |
| + | crowd of people gathered daily to gaze on it. It afterward found its way to Urga in a |
| + | large bottle filled with formaline—a ghastly remnant of the dreaded leader. For some |
| + | time it passed from hand to hand and finally disappeared—no one knows where or how. |
| + | |
| + | It was difficult to recognize in the weathered black remnant the head of the strong man |
| + | of Mongolia. A broad face, with prominent cheekbones and a flat nose. A rather dark skin |
| + | and cropped white hair—such was the likeness of Ja Lama at the time of his death. The |
| + | Mongolian Scientific Committee possesses a portrait of Ja Lama, executed by his court |
| + | painter. The portrait depicts a middle-aged man of robust build, attired in a gorgeous |
| + | coat. Ja Lama was fond of gorgeous attire and has often been seen dressed in a European |
| + | uniform underneath a Mongolian coat which he used as an overcoat. The man is dead, but |
| + | the memory of him still lives among the nomads of Mongolia. |
| + | |
| + | In our caravan we had a Torgut from Etsin-gol, who had spent several years in the region |
| + | of Ma-tzu Shan. He could never explain satisfactorily the reasons for his long stay in |
| + | this robber-infested country and some of the Mongols in the caravan had grave doubts |
| + | about him. He was a fine rider and, as all Torguts are, a good marksman. These manly |
| + | qualities combined in him in some inexplicable way with the greatest cowardice and |
| + | uncertain character. One day I heard him singing a song and it seemed to me that he was |
| + | singing about Ja Lama. I asked him to repeat the words of the song but he obstinately |
| + | refused to do so and said that he knew no songs about him. All my attempts to induce him |
| + | to sing proved vain and the man only laughed. As it was his turn to guard the caravan |
| + | animals, I had to let him go. He jumped into the saddle and dashed into the steppe |
| + | toward the grazing herd. Suddenly his voice resounded singing the very same song about |
| + | Ja Lama. I could recognize the melody but not the words. The man refused to sing in our |
| + | presence, but out in the open steppe he sang the old robber song about Ten-pei Jal-tsen, |
| + | the incarnated Amursana. The song belonged to the desert and it was against the nomad |
| + | code to sing it to strangers. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/13.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,122 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 13 |
| + | |
| + | From now on began our more or less settled camp life in the higher mountain valleys of |
| + | Shih-pao-ch'eng and Sharagolji. The local headman was unable to procure camels |
| + | before August and those camels which were for sale at his encampment were so |
| + | unsatisfactory that we decided to spend June and July in the higher mountain valleys and |
| + | start for Tibet in August. Meanwhile we could study the future route and complete our |
| + | preparations for the great trek across the uplands of Tibet. We decided to buy our own |
| + | riding horses, but the animals had to be bought from Chinese villagers, for the local |
| + | Mongol horses were useless on a trip to Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan horse dealers, who come annually to buy horses from Sining and Kansu, buy |
| + | only Chinese or Sining bred ponies. These ponies, when well built and good amblers, |
| + | bring high prices at Lhasa. We therefore decided to send our Tibetan guide to buy |
| + | horses, mules, and provisions at the Chinese village of Ch'ang-ma. |
| + | |
| + | Our camp on the plateau was found untenable for two reasons; during the rains the |
| + | surface of the plateau became muddy, and, secondly, during the dry period the frequent |
| + | northeast winds blew clouds of loess over it, which penetrated the tents and covered the |
| + | interiors with a thin layer of dust. A few days after our arrival, the local headman |
| + | invited me to accompany him on a ride around the oasis in order to find a suitable |
| + | camping ground for our stay and to visit his encampment. The trail which we were |
| + | following was very swampy and our horses frequently sank deep into the mud. |
| + | |
| + | Shih-pao-ch'eng is a vast oasis, that stretches north of the Tsagan Chuluta. It is a |
| + | vast depression situated in a gravel plain stretching toward the barren mountain ridges |
| + | that encompass the plain from south and north, leaving a gap open toward the village |
| + | Ch'ang-ma, situated west of the plain. The oasis itself is a series of swamps |
| + | situated along the banks of the river, which is fed by many subsoil springs. The |
| + | numerous Mongol encampments or *ails* were situated on patches of firm, dry |
| + | ground along the banks of the main river channel. In the summer the oasis is covered by |
| + | fine grazing, which grows on the saline grounds of the river terraces. |
| + | |
| + | The river banks and the numerous swamps are a paradise for aquatic birds. Sea gulls (*Chroicocephalus ridibundus*), gray geese (*Anser anser*), turpans (*Casarca casarca*), a variety of |
| + | ducks and divers, grebes (*Columbus cristatus* L.) and a smaller variety of them |
| + | (*Columbus minor* L.), snipes, and gray herons enlivened the river banks. |
| + | |
| + | The oasis and the mountain grazing grounds belong to the Kurluk Mongols. Local Mongols |
| + | and their headman spent winter and early spring in the Oasis of Shih-pao-ch'eng. In |
| + | June they moved their camps to the higher alpine valley of Sharagolji situated south of |
| + | the Khash-kar-in Pass. The headman, Machen, lived in three dirty felt tents, pitched on |
| + | a patch of dry firm ground close to the river. His family were just as dirty as their |
| + | tents and increased the general impression of untidiness. On our arrival a number of |
| + | boys rushed out of the tents and took our horses. We entered the larger tent, preceded |
| + | by the wife of the headman. Nearly all of the occupants wore heavy sheepskin coats, |
| + | thrown aside to the waist, leaving the upper part of the body bare. Some had green or |
| + | white shirts under the sheepskin coat, but most had none. The head of the family seated |
| + | himself on a pile of sheepskins and invited me to sit on a low mattress. The rest of the |
| + | family squatted on the floor. Near a small wooden altar with several crude brass images |
| + | of Buddha Sakyamuni, Tara, and Tsong-kha-pa, the Tibetan reformer, sat a lama from Amdo, |
| + | wearing huge Chinese spectacles that covered most of his forehead and he recited prayers |
| + | out of a book, which he was holding on his knees. We were served with cheese and |
| + | *äräki*, a kind of strong drink prepared with milk. |
| + | |
| + | After an hour's conversation, we settled the question of camels for the future |
| + | caravan. The headman agreed to hire his camels as far as Nag-chu, the first Tibetan |
| + | village on the northern caravan route. He told me that they had received disquieting |
| + | news from Teijiner in southern Tsaidam, where bands of armed Goloks or Panags had |
| + | attacked and plundered the Mongol encampments in the valley of the Neiji River. He |
| + | insisted on the necessity of having with the caravan a large detachment of men-at-arms |
| + | and proposed to supply them. He also informed me that since last year, his Prince had |
| + | received a request from Lhasa not to allow any European travelers to proceed there. This |
| + | order had nothing to do with us, for we were in possession of Tibetan passports and |
| + | letters of introduction and were even accompanied by a Tibetan government servant, |
| + | deputed by the Tibetan representative in Urga, to escort the expedition to Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Having settled all the questions concerning our future trip to Nag-chu, I rode off to |
| + | look for a suitable camping ground. The best places for camps were already occupied by |
| + | Mongol *ails*. We found a spacious river terrace, with firm, dry ground, on which |
| + | we could easily pitch our camp. We moved on the next day. It was somewhat difficult to |
| + | find a sufficient number of pack animals to transport the expedition's baggage. The |
| + | Chinese farmers had a small oxcart, which they placed at our disposal for the day. The |
| + | cart had to make several trips to convey all the heavy baggage. The headman Machen sent |
| + | us his ten camels, all the other camels being far in the mountains. The rest of the |
| + | baggage was carried over by riders. As soon as we were established in our new camp, we |
| + | sent our Tibetan guide with a Mongol to Ch'ang-ma to buy horses and mules. |
| + | |
| + | Apart from exploring the oasis, each one of us had much to do in his respective field. |
| + | Professor Roerich continued his artistic work. Mrs. Roerich and her two assistants were |
| + | sorting the expedition's baggage and making lists of supplies for the future |
| + | crossing of Tibet. Our doctor besides responding to requests for medical aid, explored |
| + | the oasis, its fauna and flora. Portniagin was always busy with transport questions, |
| + | saddlery and the odds and ends that occupy so much time in camp life. I was studying the |
| + | local Mongols, their language and customs, besides inquiring about our future route |
| + | across the swamps of Tsaidam and the uplands of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | It so happened that the Mongol tribes of Tsaidam were never before studied |
| + | linguistically. Scant information about their dialect could be obtained from accounts by |
| + | previous travelers and from the linguistic works on the Mongol dialects by Dr. A. D. |
| + | Rudnev and G. Tsybikoff. |
| + | |
| + | One evening we suddenly saw our Tibetan guide riding toward the camp on a fine black |
| + | horse and driving before him a big drove of horses and mules. The animals were a welcome |
| + | addition to our caravan. The Tibetan acquitted himself well of his task and brought back |
| + | a fine stud of animals, many of which reached Darjeeling in India, after a long and |
| + | trying winter on the Tibetan upland. |
| + | |
| + | Portniagin soon left us for a trip to Ch'ang-ma and Su-chou in the Kansu Province. |
| + | Besides the buying of provisions he was intrusted with the sending and receiving of |
| + | cables from America. He remained absent for fully two weeks and returned with a pair of |
| + | fine horses, only to be sent again to Ch'ang-ma to buy pack mules for the |
| + | expedition. We had decided to have a mule detachment in our caravan to transport the |
| + | camping outfit. |
| + | |
| + | Shih-pao-ch'eng, notwithstanding its altitude, was growing unpleasantly hot and we |
| + | inquired of the local headman, whether conditions were better in the higher valleys of |
| + | Sharagolji, where lay the summer pastures of the local Mongols. According to him there |
| + | was no rainfall in the higher valleys and grass was scant. He advised us to wait for |
| + | another two weeks. The question of supplies continued to cause us considerable anxiety. |
| + | Many of the districts in the Kansu Province were hunger stricken, as the result of |
| + | recent upheavals and the continuous movements of troops. The An-hsi authorities had |
| + | issued orders forbidding the sale of flour and rice, without an authorization by local |
| + | authorities. It became difficult to find sufficient supplies of flour for the |
| + | expedition. The local Chinese merchants were charging exorbitant prices and the only way |
| + | to get supplies of flour for our stay in Tsaidam and the journey to Nag-chu was to send |
| + | one of our men to buy it in Ch'ang-ma. We accordingly sent our Tibetan guide, who |
| + | had a good knowledge of Chinese, to buy all the available quantity, which he did and |
| + | returned a week later with a considerable supply of barley flour. |
| + | |
| + | On the 15th of June the local headman came to tell us that the conditions in Sharagolji |
| + | Valley were favorable and that he advised us to move our camp there. We fixed the date |
| + | of departure for the 18th of June. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/14.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,21 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 14 |
| + | |
| + | August 19, 1927. This morning I got up long before dawn. The camp was still asleep and |
| + | the silence was broken only by the measured step of the sentry and the rumination of the |
| + | camels tied to the picket ropes. From the darkness emerged the large silhouette of one |
| + | of our Mongols in charge of the drove of horses and mules. He drove in front of him our |
| + | animals and their silhouettes formed a black mass outside the camp. The sentry began to |
| + | build a camp fire and against the background of the flickering flame the burly figures |
| + | of the Mongols were seen emerging from their tents. The camp suddenly awoke to life and |
| + | everywhere men were busy with loads and folding tents. The dawn lit up the horizon and |
| + | long strings of camels began the march toward the mountains south of the valley. The |
| + | front camels carried on their loads ceremonial scarfs and charm boxes, destined to |
| + | protect them from evil fortune on the high passes of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Higher and higher rose the trail and soon a long sandy spur hid the valley. We entered a |
| + | sandy gorge leading toward the Ulan-daban Pass and camped on a patch of ground covered |
| + | with vivid green grass. South of the camp rose the violet rocky summits which give the |
| + | name to the mountain pass. Late in the evening our camp was joined by several Kurluk |
| + | Mongols *en route* for Mahai. It is a local custom to travel always accompanied |
| + | by some friend and the Mongols who joined us in the evening rode in a small band of |
| + | four. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/15.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,26 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 15 |
| + | |
| + | It took twenty-one days to cross the dreary, inhospitable upland of Tibet. The great |
| + | upland plains, with an average altitude of some fifteen thousand to sixteen thousand |
| + | feet, that stretch south of the K'un-lun and north of the Trans-Himalayas, are usually |
| + | designated by the Tibetan name chang-thang or "northern plain." It is a country of |
| + | climatic extremes, of burning sun in the rare sunny days of the summer and of bitterly |
| + | cold nights. The terrific wind storms and the great amplitudes in temperature have |
| + | contributed toward the formation of the present relief of the country. Once a highly |
| + | intersected country of towering mountain ranges, the north Tibetan upland of the present |
| + | epoch is a series of weathered mountain chains which have been considerably leveled, and |
| + | broad intermontane plains, the home of herds of wild yaks. |
| + | |
| + | Our first night on the Tibetan upland passed in dead silence, everyone resting after the |
| + | previous strenuous days. The silence was only broken by the groans of the suffering |
| + | nyer-wa. "Aro, aro, aro," "Friend, friend, friend" sounded his mournful complaint. The |
| + | man had a severe heart attack during the night, and it was a miracle that he survived |
| + | and was able to resume the journey in the morning. Our doctor did his best to relieve |
| + | him but each step of the camel caused him pain. |
| + | |
| + | The trail followed a mountain valley, sheltered by low hills of undulating relief. A |
| + | tiny stream, called by our Mongol guides the Angar Dakchin-gol, flowed through the |
| + | valley. After a long march across a sandy country, we camped on the bank of a fresh |
| + | water lake, fed by summer rains. Some of our men who searched the neighborhood for fuel, |
| + | reported having seen horsemen in the neighboring hills. This meant that we would have to |
| + | be again on our guard, and be especially vigilant during the night. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/16.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,32 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 16 |
| + | |
| + | The General departed and the great camp lay deserted. Most of the Hor-pa tribesmen who |
| + | were in attendance on the High Commissioner returned to their pastures. Only the headmen |
| + | of the five Hor tribes of the region and the Major, Sö-nam Thop-jyel, with a detachment |
| + | of soldiers remained in camp to attend us and spy upon our movements. A guard of militia |
| + | was stationed in our camp and our servants and caravaneers were forbidden to speak to |
| + | strangers. The militiamen, unkempt fellows in dirty sheepskins, sat continuously outside |
| + | the tents and watched every movement. The headman in charge of the militia post was an |
| + | agreeable man, of pleasant manner, and tried his best to assist us. He had the |
| + | appearance of a south-European with an aquiline nose and long straight hair. He wore a |
| + | coat of purple *puru* and a charm box of silver. According to him, the northern |
| + | Tibetan frontier had been closed since last year. |
| + | |
| + | The route from Nag-chu to Lhasa was strictly guarded by military posts, who stopped and |
| + | searched harmless pilgrims from Mongolia and the Chinese border, and only Tsaidam |
| + | Mongols were permitted to move about freely. The country was agitated by rumors that the |
| + | Tashi Lama was approaching with a mighty host of Chinese and Mongol troops. |
| + | |
| + | The Major, Sö-nam Thop-jyel, paid us an official visit and inquired about our needs. He |
| + | told us he was confident that an answer from the Government of Lhasa would be received |
| + | soon and that we should be allowed to cross the territory of inner Tibet. He had many |
| + | stories to tell about his military adventures. He had received his rank during the |
| + | Sino-Tibetan war of 1918 and was present at the siege of Ri-wo-che and Chamdo. He had |
| + | met the Chinese commandant of the Chamdo fortress, General P'eng, and even |
| + | remembered having seen our old Chinese interpreter, Ts'ai, who was taken prisoner at |
| + | Ri-wo-che. The Major advised us to send all our animals to pastures with good grass, |
| + | situated some eight miles northwest of Chu-na-khe. He promised to send four men to guard |
| + | our horses and mules. As no fodder was available and the supply of grain was very scant, |
| + | we were forced to agree, much against our will. Many of the animals never returned to |
| + | the camp and perished from exposure and want of fodder. We received only their tails, |
| + | which were brought back to our camp as proofs that the animals had died. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/17.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,1370 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 17 |
| + | |
| + | The vast mountainous country north of the Nag-chu-ka district of Tibet is known under |
| + | the name of Hor, and the nomad tribes which inhabit it are called Hor-pas. In order to |
| + | distinguish it from the Five Hor Principalities (Tib. Hor-sde-lnga) on the |
| + | Szu-ch'uan border, the region north of Nag-chu-ka is called Nup-hor (Tib. Nub-hor) |
| + | or western Hor. |
| + | |
| + | The region of the eastern Hor has been visited and described by the French explorer M. |
| + | Jacques Bacot during his remarkable voyage of 1909. |
| + | |
| + | The boundary lines of the vast province are ill-defined. The frontier lines usually run |
| + | along a mountain ridge, but in many cases the Hor tribes are found to graze their cattle |
| + | on both sides of the frontier. The southern boundary of the province runs along the |
| + | mountain chain in which the Ta-sang La (altitude 16,570 feet) is situated, although the |
| + | narrow mountain valley immediately south of the pass is still a part of the Paöro tribal |
| + | territory. |
| + | |
| + | To the west, the Hor region borders upon the tribal territory of Amdo tsho-nak, |
| + | inhabited by emigrants from Amdo and governed by the Joint-Governors of Nag-chu. The |
| + | northern boundary of the region is the Dri-chu or the Yang-tze, north of which lie the |
| + | uninhabited Tibetan highlands, the chang-thang proper. The country round Dri-chu or |
| + | Dri-chu-ka has a population of some twenty tents, occupied mostly by militia outposts |
| + | and their families, who graze their herds of domestic yaks on the southern banks of the |
| + | river. |
| + | |
| + | To the east and the northeast, the Hor region stretches far toward Tashi gompa and the |
| + | Nang-chen Province, which is governed by the Chinese authorities of Sining. |
| + | |
| + | I shall give here only a very general description of the physical aspect of the country; |
| + | detailed descriptions have already been given in the previous chapters on the passage of |
| + | the expedition. |
| + | |
| + | The Hor-sde or the Hor region is a country of rolling grass-covered hills, broad valleys |
| + | with marshy ground and several important snow ranges, which mostly run from west to |
| + | east. To the east, the country is more intersected and its landscape, with narrow and |
| + | deeply cut valleys and towering cliffs, reminds the traveler of the peripheral regions |
| + | of eastern Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The chief orographical feature is the high latitudinal range of the Thang La, the |
| + | watershed between the upper course of the Dri-chu (Yang-tze), the Dza-chu (Mekong) and |
| + | the Salween (Nag-chu?). Three great rivers of Asia have their source within the |
| + | boundaries of this region, Yang-tze, the Salween and the Mekong. The mountain land |
| + | between the upper course of the Mekong and the Salween is as yet unexplored. No American |
| + | or European traveler has so far crossed the eastern offshoots of the mighty Thang La. |
| + | The region abounds in hot sulphur springs and subsoil springs of fresh water. Its |
| + | flat-bottomed valleys are covered with a kind of coarse sedge, which affords ample |
| + | grazing to the herds of horned cattle and flocks of sheep. The grass country of the Hor |
| + | is one of the largest cattle-producing districts of Tibet and is one of the coveted |
| + | possessions of the Lhasa Government. |
| + | |
| + | The climate is severe and terrific western winds sweep across undulating hills and |
| + | uplands. A long and bitterly cold winter of six months freezes the country and renders |
| + | it desolate and inhospitable. A snowy winter often causes a terrible murrain of cattle |
| + | and many wealthy families are frequently reduced to poverty after several stormy weeks |
| + | that bury the country under four or five feet of snow. |
| + | |
| + | Spring starts only in late April or May, when the rivers open up and the ground, |
| + | saturated by melting snow, turns green with fresh grass. The spring is followed by a |
| + | short summer of some two months during which period the region receives most of its |
| + | rain, which begins to fall by the end of July and continues through the whole of August. |
| + | Clear, sunny days are rare during summer and the summits of the mountains are hidden |
| + | between thick, rainy clouds. Then comes the cool and clear autumn with its bracing |
| + | windless days and cold but clear nights—the best traveling season throughout the |
| + | highlands of Tibet. I have already written about the tremendous variations in |
| + | temperature within twenty-four hours which are characteristic of Tibet and other desert |
| + | regions of inner Asia. This amplitude of temperature and the hurricane winds that blow |
| + | in late autumn and early spring, have greatly contributed in the formation of the |
| + | present relief of the region. |
| + | |
| + | Geographically speaking, the same grass upland stretches as far as the snow range of the |
| + | Shang-shung kang-ri, which forms the southern buttress of the northern Tibetan upland. |
| + | The neighboring administrative district of Nag-chu is only an administrative division |
| + | and represents no geographical unit. The same is true of other neighboring districts, |
| + | such as Nam-ru, Nag-tshang, Chö-khor. |
| + | |
| + | During the long period of Chinese domination, the present Hor district formed part of |
| + | the vast Jya-de (rJya-sde) Province which stretched as far east as Ri-wo-che, and was |
| + | governed by a special Chinese Commissioner residing in Lhasa. Since the Chinese |
| + | Revolution of 1911, and the proclamation of independence by the present Tibetan |
| + | Government, the Hor region has been incorporated into the territory of the Lama Kingdom |
| + | of Lhasa and made a province administered by a Frontier High Commissioner, known by the |
| + | title of Hor-chyi-chyap (Tib. Hor-spyi-khyab) or the High Commissioner of Hor. |
| + | |
| + | Recent authors seem to have a tendency to erase the name of Hor from the map of Tibet. |
| + | Dr. Sven Hedin says in his great work, *Southern Tibet*: "The Tibetans call |
| + | the Turks Hor or Hor-pa and the Mongolians Sok or Sok-pa (Sok-po). There are no Turks |
| + | until you come to the northern side of the Kwen-lun Mountains. But in spite of almost |
| + | all modern maps, there is no single Turk in the heart of the Tibetan Plateau land. And |
| + | there is nobody else either, for the part of Tibet which is generally called Hor on our |
| + | maps is not inhabited." |
| + | |
| + | Della Penna and Nain Singh, one of the ablest native surveyors of the Indian |
| + | Trigonometrical Survey, called "Hor" the whole of the highland region west of |
| + | the Nga-ri kor-sum Province, and the country north of the thirty-second latitude has |
| + | been marked "Hor" on European maps. In reality, the name belongs only to the |
| + | district of Jya-de, northeast of the Tengri-nor, and west of the Amdo tsho-nak. In |
| + | Tibetan historical annals, the name "Hor" or "Jya-hor" commonly |
| + | designates tribes of Mongol or central Asian origin, which, since the eighth to ninth |
| + | centuries A.D. continuously overran Tibet and especially the northeastern border. |
| + | |
| + | In the modern colloquial language, the word "Hor" represents a Tibetan ethnic |
| + | name for nomad tribes of mixed origin that dwell between the Panag-Golok tribes and the |
| + | Chang-pas of the Great Lake region. The admixture of foreign blood in them is prominent, |
| + | and we easily discern Mongolian, Turkish, and even *Homo alpinus* types, the last |
| + | probably due to an admixture of Iranian or Scythian blood. They have preserved dim |
| + | recollections of their remote central Asian origin and even now look more toward Peking |
| + | and the great lands of central Asia, than toward Lhasa. For them Lhasa is only a |
| + | temporary ruler, who severed their century-old connection with China. |
| + | |
| + | I shall base my account of the Hor-pas on my personal observations made during a five |
| + | months' stay among the five Hor tribes, which dwell north and south of the Thang La |
| + | Range. They form five *shorka* or tribal divisions, which are designated by the |
| + | names of Tse-mar, Atak-Memar, Atak-Thomi, Kömora, and Páöro. |
| + | |
| + | By far the most important of the five is the Tse-mar *shorka* ruled by a |
| + | *pön-po* or chief with the title of *de-pön* (*sde-dpon*) or |
| + | district chief, who is considered to be the eldest among the five Hor chiefs. All of |
| + | these five tribal divisions are of unequal size. Whereas the Tse-mar *shorka* has |
| + | about a thousand tents with a population of some forty-five hundred to five thousand |
| + | individuals, the Kömora and Páöro tribal divisions have only about four hundred tents |
| + | each. More populous tribes inhabit the upper course of the Mekong and the lower valleys |
| + | of the Salween, but as I have already told, the vast mountainous region between the |
| + | upper course of the Mekong and the Salween is still unexplored and it is impossible to |
| + | give approximate figures of its population. |
| + | |
| + | The Hor tribes have so far preserved their tribal organization and enjoy a certain |
| + | amount of autonomy, which is, however, rapidly passing away. There can be no doubt that |
| + | the Lhasa Government intends to create a firm administration in the outlying provinces. |
| + | The High Commissioner is always an official of the fourth grade and is the chief |
| + | representative of the central government in the region. He tries cases of inter-tribal |
| + | feuds, supervises the collection of taxes, and insures the safety of trade routes |
| + | crossing the territory of the region. During the cold winter months he usually resides |
| + | somewhere in the eastern districts of the region, sometimes at Byi-ru gompa or some |
| + | other monastery or town. The heavy expenditures incurred by the local population which |
| + | is obliged to supply foodstuffs, fodder, and fuel for the High Commissioner, his troops |
| + | and retainers, necessitate frequent changes in official residences. During the summer |
| + | months the High Commissioner is often found touring in the district. This touring is a |
| + | source of much trouble to the local population. The tribes have to furnish pack animals, |
| + | riding horses for the numerous retainers of the Commissioner, organize relay stages at |
| + | convenient points along the Commissioner's route and depute hundreds of men and |
| + | women to attend to the needs of the party. Small officials use these occasions to enrich |
| + | themselves by taking bribes in money and cattle. If a case is to be tried the court |
| + | clerks, who record the evidence, have to be bribed before the case goes for final |
| + | decision to the High Commissioner. In the performance of his official duties, the High |
| + | Commissioner of Hor is assisted by two officials of the fifth grade, who act as his |
| + | advisors. |
| + | |
| + | The only occupation of the country is cattle breeding and the tax that the region pays |
| + | to the Government of Lhasa since 1912, consists solely of butter, wool, hides, and other |
| + | produce of cattle breeding. Cattle breeding has always been the national occupation of |
| + | the Hor-pas. It is even nowadays conducted along very primitive lines, as a result of |
| + | which the breeds of horned cattle and horses are rapidly deteriorating. The Hor-pas |
| + | collect no hay for the winter, believing it to be harmful to the deities of earth. The |
| + | cattle subsist solely on grass, and in winter have to find their food by scratching the |
| + | snow with their hoofs. In this search for fodder, the horses often spend their last |
| + | forces and die from want of feeding and complete exhaustion. All winter, the herds of |
| + | cattle and horses have to stay in the open, without any shelter to protect them from the |
| + | cold winter nights. Only the strongest survive this severe test of endurance. |
| + | |
| + | Notwithstanding the poor conditions of cattle breeding, the region is still |
| + | comparatively rich in herds of yaks and flocks of sheep, but old inhabitants assured us |
| + | that in their younger days, some thirty years ago, the region owned immense herds of |
| + | domestic yaks and flocks of sheep and that for the past thirty or forty years the number |
| + | of heads in the herds have rapidly diminished. This is especially noticeable with flocks |
| + | of sheep. It is a well-known fact that the number of sheep is decreasing throughout |
| + | central Asia. |
| + | |
| + | Yaks furnish the chief products of the region—hides, yak hair, yak tails, butter, and |
| + | other milk products. The yak is also the chief beast of burden throughout the district. |
| + | The flocks of sheep furnish wool, which is either taken by the Government or sold to |
| + | private trading establishments which transport wool to Lhasa and from there by the |
| + | Gyangtse-Chumbi trade route to India. Horses are found only in small numbers. They are |
| + | used almost exclusively as riding animals and one family seldom has more than three to |
| + | five horses. The region does not export horses, and most of the animals are employed |
| + | locally. The Hor breed of horses is small but hardy. A great defect is a rather heavy |
| + | head, hard mouth and general clumsiness on the move. It is not a horse for fast |
| + | riding—an animal bred in a vast steppe country; it is merely a caravan animal well |
| + | suited to stony trails. These horses are never shod and this makes them extremely sure |
| + | footed and invaluable on bad mountain tracks. |
| + | |
| + | An average nomad household in the region of Hor possesses from twenty to fifty yaks and |
| + | from a hundred to three hundred sheep. Horses are owned by the wealthy men, who |
| + | sometimes have big droves of them. The largest herds of yaks and horses which we saw |
| + | during our passage, belonged to monasteries or rich merchants from Nag-chu and Lhasa. |
| + | The great monastery of Dre-pung has large herds of domestic yaks and flocks of sheep in |
| + | the neighboring Nag-chu and Nag-tshang districts. North of Thang La we met a herd of |
| + | some five hundred yaks owned by a wealthy trader from Nag-chu. This herd was in charge |
| + | of a local nomad who was responsible for the animals and had to supply the fixed amount |
| + | of yak hair, tails, hides, butter, and other milk products. |
| + | |
| + | The chief economic wealth of Tibet lies in these nomad cattle-breeding districts. |
| + | Deprive Tibet of its cattle-breeding regions and the country would starve. |
| + | |
| + | The agricultural districts of Tibet are unable to feed the whole of the country's |
| + | population and produce almost nothing for export, except a certain yearly output of |
| + | cloth and sacred objects manufactured by the monasteries. All the valuable products of |
| + | Tibetan export to China, India, and Mongolia, such as wool, hides, woolen cloth, yak |
| + | tails and furs are produced by the nomad districts. It is the poor, ragged nomad, living |
| + | at an altitude of some fifteen thousand feet, who enriches the Government and furnishes |
| + | its articles of export. This nomad population is a powerful economic factor. A severe, |
| + | snowy winter which destroys vast numbers of cattle is a calamity for the entire country. |
| + | For the past few years, the northern Tibetan uplands north and south of the Thang La |
| + | Range experienced a succession of winters of exceptional severity and snowfall. The |
| + | whole countryside was covered with snow and cattle and sheep perished by thousands. As a |
| + | result of these unhappy years, the cattle breeding in the nomad districts north of Tibet |
| + | proper suffered a heavy blow. |
| + | |
| + | A considerable portion of the region's yearly produce goes to the Government as a |
| + | tax. The tax that is collected in the name of the Lhasa Government is in proportion to |
| + | the wealth of the individual taxpayer, and varies in amount according to the needs of |
| + | the Government. An extraordinary tax is sometimes imposed on a district as a fine. The |
| + | tax is sometimes abolished when a district has suffered badly from snowfalls, previous |
| + | drafts of cattle, or an epizoötic disease. During the lengthy period of Chinese rule, |
| + | the Hor region was exempt from payment of regular taxes and was only expected to present |
| + | tribute to the Imperial Court of China once in four years. The yearly tax imposed on the |
| + | western Hor tribes by the Tibetan Government is one of the chief causes for a certain |
| + | amount of dissatisfaction noticeable in the region. The former connection with China is |
| + | still apparent in the region and is well demonstrated by the fact that the nomad |
| + | population prefers Chinese currency to that of Lhasa. |
| + | |
| + | The universally accepted form of trade is barter. Most of the trade goes to Sining and |
| + | the eastern districts of Tibet. The Hor region has the advantage of being situated in |
| + | the vicinity of several important trade routes of Tibet—the Mongol-Tsaidam route, the |
| + | Sining route, the Tachienlu route, and the northern Ladak route. All of these routes |
| + | lead to Nag-chu, the chief Tibetan *entrepôt* of frontier trade. The Lhasan |
| + | merchants, who had established trading stations throughout the region, are constantly |
| + | endeavoring to turn the local trade southward and make the Hor tribes dependent on |
| + | Lhasan produce. Undoubtedly with the practical closing of the Sino-Tibetan border, and |
| + | the existing support of the Tibetan Government, their activities will be greatly |
| + | facilitated. Besides government trade agencies, the country is swarming with petty |
| + | tradesmen, representing private interest or big monastery concerns. In the temporary |
| + | camp of the High Commissioner of Hor at Chu-na-khe we found beside government trade |
| + | agents and customs officials, a whole army of private traders and *do-nyers* or |
| + | representatives of important Lhasan firms. All of them were carefully watching the |
| + | Sining-Lhasa trade route and it is a miracle that their interests did not clash and that |
| + | all of them seemed to make sufficient profit to warrant the establishment of permanent |
| + | trading stations. |
| + | |
| + | In exchange for the land products, the Lhasan and Sining merchants offer miscellaneous |
| + | articles of Chinese and foreign manufacture. The Sining and Tachienlu traders bring into |
| + | the country Chinese silks, brick tea and other articles specially manufactured by |
| + | Chinese firms for Tibetan trade. The Lhasan merchant displays in his tent haberdashery, |
| + | foreign-made cloth, Chinese- and Japanese-made medicines and enameled wares which have |
| + | recently become the fashion in remote districts of inner Asia. |
| + | |
| + | A Tibetan trader usually spends his days sitting in his tent among bales and cases of |
| + | merchandise, receiving visits from local headmen and nomads. All squat on the floor |
| + | round the fire, drink endless cups of butter-tea and smoke the long-stemmed Chinese |
| + | pipes. Business is discussed and the assistants of the *tshong-pön* or merchant |
| + | take down the quantity and quality of local products offered in exchange for articles of |
| + | foreign manufacture. Haberdashery is in great demand and small, cheap articles command |
| + | exorbitant prices. A very brisk trade is done in brass army buttons, which are imported |
| + | chiefly from India. A wealthy nomad is immensely proud of his buttons with the English |
| + | inscription *Nepal*. |
| + | |
| + | A large trade is done in firearms and ammunition. Modern magazine rifles, mostly of |
| + | military patterns, are brought into the country from China, Mongolia, and India. Berdane |
| + | rifles, Martinis, Russian service rifles, Lee-Enfield rifles, Mausers, Mannlichers, and |
| + | Japanese Arisaka rifles are commonly seen slung on the back of Hor-pa riders, who |
| + | possess a good knowledge of modern firearms. All throughout the Hor region modern |
| + | firearms are prominent. Rifle butts are manufactured at Nag-chu and the execution of the |
| + | butt and the adjusting of the shank to the barrel are quite remarkable. In constant |
| + | demand are the Mauser automatic pistols, the favorite firearm of Tibetan and Mongol |
| + | officers. A good Mauser pistol with a hundred cartridges is sold for four hundred |
| + | *ngü-sangs* or approximately two hundred dollars. |
| + | |
| + | A man with a Mauser pistol can safely travel through a robber-infested region and no one |
| + | will think of attacking him. This safety enjoyed by travelers armed with Mauser pistols |
| + | led to the manufacture of Mauser-shaped wooden holsters for revolvers of different |
| + | patterns. At present many of the brigands know about the trick and usually manage to |
| + | find out the truth. |
| + | |
| + | One of the members of the expedition had a Belgian revolver which he carried in a |
| + | leather Mauser holster. A Panag brigand who once paid a visit to our camp and evinced a |
| + | great interest in our firearms, quickly discovered the pattern of the revolver and |
| + | taking our assistant by the arm, asked him with a sly smile, "Do you think yours is |
| + | a real Mauser?" |
| + | |
| + | Such is the economic life of the region and its place among the fifty-four |
| + | administrative districts of Tibet. Let us now describe the people themselves, their life |
| + | and religion in the dreary uplands of Nup-hor. |
| + | |
| + | The Hor-pas are found in considerable numbers only south of the Thang La Range. To the |
| + | north of this range, their encampments are scattered at great distances from each other. |
| + | As the result of recent upheavals and successive famines brought about by several snowy |
| + | winters, the nomad population has diminished. Many left their native highlands to seek |
| + | their fortune in the fertile districts of eastern Tibet. Others haunt the vicinity of |
| + | the trade routes as beggars and robbers, ready to attack lonely travelers or small |
| + | parties of pilgrims. |
| + | |
| + | When crossing the wind-swept uplands of northern Tibet with its almost terrifying |
| + | barrenness, one wonders where one could possibly meet human beings. Only utter |
| + | misfortune could force men to live on these desolate mountains and plains. Sometimes, |
| + | after many days of hard traveling, when almost every day some of the caravan animals |
| + | succumb to the hardships and have to be abandoned, one sees a square stone wall and |
| + | heaps of dung. This was probably an encampment of nomads. Dead carcasses of domestic |
| + | yaks confirm the supposition. After these first traces of human activity, one travels |
| + | again for several days more without seeing even a sign of nomads or their herds. The |
| + | blizzard sweeps the countryside, and the surrounding mountains are hidden behind a |
| + | thick, white mist. The traveler rides with his head bent forward, his shoulders and |
| + | chest covered with a thick layer of wet snow. It is hardly possible to look ahead and |
| + | only the hardy yaks are able to find the right direction in this snow-bound region. |
| + | Suddenly one hears bells in the distance, an almost uncanny sound amid the howling of |
| + | the storm. Then something dark is seen ahead. Strange looking riders with long |
| + | matchlocks swung on their backs and riding small shaggy horses, emerge from the mist. |
| + | They stop and some of them dismount, this being a sign that they are peaceful travelers, |
| + | intending no harm. Their faces are covered by crudely made masks, and their heads are |
| + | protected by large fur bonnets that completely cover the head and ears and are held by a |
| + | string tied under the chin. Long unkempt tresses of black hair hang on both sides of the |
| + | face. Dirty gray sheepskin coats and high boots made of thick Tibetan cotton cloth |
| + | protect the men from the bitter cold. All are armed with long swords and matchlocks, |
| + | sometimes even modern rifles. Large ornamented cartridge belts are worn crosswise over |
| + | the fur coats. Occasionally a woman accompanies the men, dressed exactly like them, only |
| + | her sheepskin coat is longer and she carries no arms. This is probably a party of nomads |
| + | on a hunting expedition after wild yaks. During such hunting tours, they live on the raw |
| + | meat of the animals they kill and on small portions of *tsam-pa*—the national |
| + | meal of Tibet. They carry no tents but spend the night under the open sky, sleeping in a |
| + | strange crouching attitude, and are often completely buried in snow. M. Jacques Bacot |
| + | says in his book on eastern Tibet, "Non seulement les hommes de cette race dorment |
| + | accroupis, mais c'est encore dans cette posture qu'ils sont malades et |
| + | qu'ils meurent." Their horses, these hardy little animals, that live on dry |
| + | meat, *tsam-pa*, and tea leaves, stand beside their sleeping masters, their backs |
| + | turned to the raging wind. Such is the sight of a temporary nomad camp in the wilderness |
| + | of the Tibetan upland. One tries to speak to these nomads and hears strange guttural |
| + | sounds, so unlike the fluent and soft speech of Lhasan Tibetans. |
| + | |
| + | After this first encounter, the traveler again journeys for several days without finding |
| + | even a trace of human beings. Then one day, he may see a huge herd of black and brown |
| + | domestic yaks coming down the mountain slope. Wild looking men in gray sheepskin coats |
| + | drive the herd. They circle about their animals, sometimes whistling, sometimes making |
| + | peculiar shrill sounds that cut the rarefied atmosphere. These men wear no head covering |
| + | and their long unkempt tresses play in the wind. All of the men are busy making strings |
| + | out of sheep wool, which they roll between the palms of the hands and then twirl on a |
| + | small piece of wood. This is the favorite occupation of nomads while driving their herds |
| + | or squatting at camp fires. The presence of a herd of domestic yaks indicates that a |
| + | nomad encampment is somewhere near. |
| + | |
| + | After a short ride, the traveler notices several large black tents in a side valley, |
| + | sheltered from the winds. Big, black dogs with large red and blue collars rush toward |
| + | the road and bark fiercely. Tibet has a peculiar breed of enormous dogs, known to |
| + | Europeans under the name of Tibetan mastiffs. They sometimes almost reach the size of a |
| + | small donkey, with thick black fur, broad and powerful chest, and a huge head with |
| + | powerful jaws. They are known to attack wolves, and I myself knew of one which |
| + | successfully tackled a snow leopard. To render these animals less dangerous, the nomads |
| + | tie up one of the dog's front legs to its collar, making it impossible for him to |
| + | attack and harm travelers. At night the dogs are let loose. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan nomad tent, usually called *ba-nag* or "black tent" has |
| + | often been compared to a gigantic spider. It is made of black yak wool, and consists of |
| + | two halves connected by narrow strips at the places in its roof where the two tent poles |
| + | are fixed. A hole in the roof is thus left open to let out the smoke. The tent is kept |
| + | erect by two vertical poles and numerous ropes, which are usually very long, for a long |
| + | rope holds the tent better during the frequent windstorms. No iron or wooden pegs are |
| + | used, the ropes being mostly tied to bowlders. Occasionally yak horns are used as tent |
| + | pegs. Such tents have always two entrances, one at the front and one at the back. In the |
| + | case of a chief's dwelling, several tents may be pitched together so as to form one |
| + | long, large room. These tents are usually very spacious and permit several families to |
| + | quarter together. |
| + | |
| + | The furniture is extremely primitive. Rugs or felts are seldom used as floor covering |
| + | except in wealthy households. The middle of the tent is occupied by one or more |
| + | fireplaces. It is the duty of the infirm and aged to look after the fire. Neither |
| + | altars, nor Tibetan low tables are found in the usual nomad tent. Such luxuries are seen |
| + | only in the tents of the tribal chiefs or wealthy traders and lamas. The tent of the |
| + | common man is filled with riding and packsaddles, bags of butter and *tsam-pa*, |
| + | hides, and wooden tea churns. |
| + | |
| + | Newly born lambs and young sheep share the tent with their masters. The family bed is a |
| + | dirty heap of sheepskins, thrown in a corner by day and spread out around the fireplace |
| + | at night. From the outside the tent is protected by low walls of stones or more often of |
| + | dry dung. Such a wall protects it from wind and dust, which otherwise would easily |
| + | penetrate beneath. The summer tents of chieftains, often used as guest tents for |
| + | important officials and travelers, are made of white cloth with blue and dark red |
| + | designs sewn on their roofs. The designs represent the eight happy signs of the Buddhist |
| + | ornamentation, sometimes the Wheel of Law or figures of lions artfully combined with |
| + | floral ornaments. We have already seen that similar tents are used by Tsaidam Mongols |
| + | during their travels. These guest tents are sometimes of huge dimensions, and the |
| + | palatial tent erected for the Dalai Lama while His Holiness is on tour, is said to |
| + | accommodate about three hundred persons. The inside of such guest tents is always |
| + | furnished with costly Chinese and Tibetan rugs, white felts, mattresses, and low tables |
| + | on which stand the Tibetan teacups with their silver supports and covers. |
| + | |
| + | Most of the household work is done by women, who milk the cows, prepare butter and |
| + | Tibetan dry-cheese or *chu-ra*, tan skins, and spin the Tibetan homespun cloth. |
| + | Men are usually away with caravans, which start in the summer months for inner Tibet to |
| + | pay tribute to the Government in butter, wool, and homespun cloth, and return in late |
| + | autumn before the snow has blocked the passes, with loads of barley and |
| + | *tsam-pa* for winter consumption. When at home, the men guard the herds of yaks |
| + | and sheep, by no means an easy duty at those altitudes. |
| + | |
| + | Accustomed to hard work round the camp, the woman is often stronger physically than the |
| + | man and extremely industrious. The Tibetan woman has a well-founded reputation over the |
| + | whole of Tibet and the Himalayan States of India for hard work. She rises early and |
| + | lights the fires, brings in water, if a brook or stream is near by, but usually uses |
| + | snow from the neighboring ravines. While the water for tea is being boiled, the |
| + | housewife goes out to look after the herds of yaks and flocks of sheep. Sheep are set |
| + | free from the stone inclosures in which they are kept during the cold night, protected |
| + | by Tibetan dogs. Meanwhile the head of the family, if he happens to be at home, gets up, |
| + | throws on his bare shoulders his sheepskin and takes his place at the fire. The whole |
| + | family, which may be several families living together, or several brothers having one |
| + | common wife, gets up and squats at the fireplace. The tent fills with the loud murmur of |
| + | recited morning prayers. After the return of the housewife, tea is drunk, large lumps of |
| + | butter being thrown into wooden teacups filled with tea. Tea drinking continues for some |
| + | time. *Tsam-pa* is mixed with tea and then rolled into small balls which are |
| + | swallowed. A rather savory dish is prepared from dry *tsam-pa* mixed with good |
| + | quality butter and Tibetan cheese. It is seldom that one finds fresh butter, for the |
| + | nomad's butter is usually several months old and emits an unpleasant odor that |
| + | permeates the tent and the clothing of its occupants. |
| + | |
| + | After the morning tea, everyone starts the daily work. The housewife and her women |
| + | proceed to milk the cows and the men go to perform various outdoor duties. Some hunt, |
| + | others keep watch over the large herds of domestic yaks and horses. In regions infested |
| + | with brigands, shepherds are seen armed and mounted, ready to resist any attempt on the |
| + | part of the robbers to drive off the herd. In the afternoon, the women of the camp busy |
| + | themselves with spinning, tanning of skins, and other domestic work. In the evening |
| + | toward sunset the whole family assembles once more. The women bring in the fresh milk |
| + | and the family partake of an evening meal consisting of the same tea, *tsam-pa*, |
| + | and sometimes dry raw mutton. The consumption of raw meat is considered very wholesome. |
| + | Each member of the family produces a sheep bone and cleanly cuts the meat from it with a |
| + | knife. |
| + | |
| + | After the meal is over evening prayers are murmured and occasionally incense imported |
| + | from Lhasa is burned. The men squat on the floor by the fire, telling each other stories |
| + | and local news brought in by passing caravans. Some smoke the long Chinese pipes, which |
| + | are imported from Tachienlu and Sining. If one of the family members knows how to sing |
| + | he may chant the ancient ballad of Kesar, the mighty warrior king, who conquered Tibet |
| + | in the past and is expected to reappear in this world to establish the kingdom of |
| + | righteousness. I remember these squatting figures with faces lit by the reflection of |
| + | fire, talking late into the night about the heroic deeds of King Kesar and his seven |
| + | warrior friends. The usual dull expression of the nomad suddenly lights with an inner |
| + | flame that conveys to you better than words, that the ancient martial spirit is still |
| + | glimmering. The fire burns out and crouching figures of men with heads bent low to the |
| + | knees and tresses of long black hair hanging about them, fade into the darkness. |
| + | |
| + | The hard life led by these nomads strikes one by its total absence of elementary |
| + | comfort. It seems at times that they were born to suffer for some past sins, and |
| + | patiently endure the torture of their present existence on the bleak uplands of Tibet. A |
| + | nomad tribesman will never think of lying down at night and stretching out his weary |
| + | limbs. On the contrary, he will subject himself to the trial of sleeping in a crouching |
| + | posture on the cold, frozen ground of the tent. Comfort does not exist for him. I |
| + | remember having seen a wounded Hor-pa militiaman carried into a tent and deposited on |
| + | the ground, his head resting on the sharp edge of a brass caldron. I tried to move his |
| + | head and place it on a mattress, but the wounded man moved his head back on the |
| + | caldron's edge. It seemed that he was unable to conceive of even a moment of |
| + | relative comfort. A remarkable psychology is this, full of negation of one's own |
| + | body. |
| + | |
| + | The nomads, who form a large portion of Tibet's population, present a very |
| + | degenerate type. This is particularly true of the western part of the nomad country and |
| + | the higher mountain valleys of the Trans-Himalayas. The arctic climate of the Tibetan |
| + | uplands and life in higher mountain valleys, often at an altitude of sixteen thousand to |
| + | seventeen thousand feet, have checked their mental and physical development. Scurvy is |
| + | common among them. The men and women of the tribes living around Nag-chu and the |
| + | neighboring district of the Great Lakes are short and fleshy, with prominent cheek bones |
| + | and curly hair. |
| + | |
| + | The nomad tribes of northeastern Tibet and the Hor-pas have a stronger and finer |
| + | physique. Among them we often find tall men with long, refined features. The women, with |
| + | rare exceptions, are short in stature, having broad faces and prominent cheek bones. It |
| + | is an interesting and inexplainable fact that whereas the type of men varies according |
| + | to tribe and locality, the type of women remains the same throughout the nomad regions |
| + | of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The foreign origin of the Hor-pas is manifested in their appearance. Whereas the |
| + | Chang-pas of the Lake region and the mountain tribes of the Trans-Himalayas are mostly |
| + | all brachycephals, the Hor-pas commonly show dolichocephalic indexes. Types with |
| + | aquiline noses, Caucasoid eyes, medium lips, and straight or medium-waved hair are often |
| + | found. |
| + | |
| + | Generally speaking, two distinct types are observed among the Hor-pas: the Hor-pas north |
| + | of the Thang La Range, and the Hor-pas south of that range. Among the first we |
| + | frequently meet the Caucasian type, and some of the males look curiously like Europeans. |
| + | Among the women the Mongoloid type with the Mongoloid eyefold is much more prominent. |
| + | |
| + | The Hor-pas south of the Thang La Range represent a transitory type between the Hor-pas |
| + | north of the range and the round-headed Tibetans of the central provinces. South of the |
| + | Thang La we seldom meet Caucasian types. The eyes mostly have the Mongoloid fold, the |
| + | lips are thick, the cheek bones prominent and the hair woolly. The color of the skin of |
| + | the northern Hor-pas is lighter than that of the Hor-pas south of the Thang La and is |
| + | usually light brown. In stature, the Hor-pas north and northeast of Thang La are taller |
| + | than those of the uplands south of the great range. The Hor-pas south of the Thang La |
| + | are of weaker physique. The chest is sunken in most cases and the extremities are often |
| + | underdeveloped. |
| + | |
| + | Curiously enough the same difference is observed in the language. The Hor-pas of the |
| + | north speak a dialect of their own, closely related to the archaic nomad dialects of |
| + | Tibet and hardly understood by the Lhasan Tibetans. In a recent paper on Tibetan |
| + | phonology, I have shown some of the distinctive traits of these nomad dialects, their |
| + | archaic form, and many characteristic peculiarities, the most striking of which are the |
| + | pronunciation of some of the prefixes, and the voiced pronunciation of the ancient |
| + | sonants, which have become voiceless in modern central Tibetan. In vocabulary also, the |
| + | Hor dialect differs greatly from the central Tibetan. The subdialect spoken by the |
| + | Hor-pas on the Nag-chu-ka border is already strongly tinted by the central Tibetan |
| + | dialect, and although it has lost the pronunciation of most of the prefixes, it still |
| + | retains the voiced pronunciation of ancient sonants. In vocabulary too, it is closer to |
| + | the central Tibetan. One gains the impression that the Hor-pas north of the Thang La |
| + | Range preserved the purer type of Hor-pas, and that the infusion of foreign non-Tibetan |
| + | blood in them is greater than in their countrymen to the south, who have become |
| + | thoroughly Tibetanized. |
| + | |
| + | The present state of our knowledge permits no conclusions to be made about the ethnic |
| + | affinities of the tribes that wander along the northern border of Tibet proper. The |
| + | famous Russian explorer of Tibet and central Asia, Prjevalski, quoted his native |
| + | interpreter who stated that the language of local Tibetans north of Nag-chu (Hor-pas) |
| + | was similar to that of Lhasa and very different from that of the Tibetans in the |
| + | Koko-nor region. The great Russian explorer adds that he was unable to make any |
| + | linguistic researches during his stay on the Tibetan frontier. As a matter of fact, the |
| + | Hor dialect north of the Thang La has quite a number of striking similarities with that |
| + | of the Panags of the Koko-nor region and the Nya-rong-was of northeastern Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The costume is universal for all the nomad districts of Tibet. The usual costume of |
| + | Hor-pa men and women of the poorer class consists of the sheepskin coat. Sometimes a |
| + | shirt is worn, but most of the nomads wear their sheepskins on the naked body. When |
| + | working, the heavy and cumbersome coat is thrown down from the right shoulder, which is |
| + | left bare. Large homespun trousers are often worn by the men. The footgear consists of |
| + | high boots, kept by a garter under the knee. The leg of such a boot is commonly made of |
| + | coarse woolen homespun; the sole is made from raw yak hide and its edge is trimmed with |
| + | yak hair. Sometimes in men's boots the leg is of red leather. Leather boots are |
| + | imported from Chien-ch'ang in southwestern Szu-ch'uan Province. Wealthy headmen |
| + | and lamas are sometimes seen wearing black cowhide boots of Chinese make and pattern. |
| + | The Mongol boots of black, yellow, or red leather (mostly imported from Russia) with |
| + | sewn designs of colored leather, are greatly valued and form one of the successful |
| + | articles of Tibetan import. Among the lamas the legs of the boots are invariably red and |
| + | the uppers are always of white cotton. The sheepskin coats of the Hor-pas frequently |
| + | have colored pieces of cloth sewn on the back and round the edges of the coat. Black, |
| + | blue, dark green, and purple are favorite colors. The laymen prefer black and dark |
| + | ultramarine blue, the lamas have in most cases dark red pieces of cloth sewn on their |
| + | fur coats. |
| + | |
| + | The richer class wear coats made of *puru*—a Tibetan cotton cloth of high |
| + | quality, usually colored purple or dark violet, and greatly prized in Tibet and |
| + | Mongolia. Such cloth is prepared by villagers or nomads, who are obliged by law to hand |
| + | over the whole of the produced quantity to local government officials, the Government |
| + | selling the cloth at fixed prices afterward, and exporting it to foreign countries. In |
| + | winter time the men wear heavy sheepskin trousers. Chinese silk leggings |
| + | (*tao-ku*) are also worn by the wealthy. The Chinese waistcoats |
| + | (*kan-chien*) adopted by the town people of central Tibet, are never worn by the |
| + | nomads, who adhere strictly to the Tibetan broad and long-sleeved *chu-was* or |
| + | coats. The women of the richer households have adopted the Tibetan dress and wear skirts |
| + | of striped *puru* and large blouses made of *terma* or silk. |
| + | |
| + | Most of the men and women go about bareheaded. Only while traveling or during storms |
| + | they wear a fur bonnet covered with blue or green cloth and trimmed with fox skin or |
| + | sheepskin. Some of these caps are of unusual dimensions and from a distance remind one |
| + | of the large fur caps or *papaha* used by Siberian Cossacks. During blizzards the |
| + | fur-trimmed flaps of the cap are lowered and buttoned in front, leaving only the eyes |
| + | free and covering the rest of the face. This gives an excellent protection on the |
| + | gale-swept uplands of northern Tibet. During the coldest part of the winter of 1927 I |
| + | was fortunate in having a Tibetan fur cap, which saved me from blisters. The fur caps of |
| + | the lamas are lined with yellow silk. |
| + | |
| + | The summer hat is made of straw and is covered with cotton cloth, the rim being faced |
| + | with red and blue cloth. The top is rather high and the hat is kept on the head by a |
| + | string worn under the chin. Many wear the usual Tibetan fur cap with fur flaps and felt |
| + | top, ornamented with pieces of brocade. European-made Homburger hats and service hats, |
| + | used in the Gurkha Battalions of the Indian army, are also commonly worn by traders who |
| + | have visited the trade marts on the Indian border. |
| + | |
| + | It is in the hairdresses that we notice the greatest differences. The women have their |
| + | hair plaited in numerous small braids that hang down the back and are kept together by a |
| + | broad piece of red cloth on which silver ornaments are sewn, consisting mostly of silver |
| + | Indian rupees, Chinese dollars, and Tibetan silver coins. The girls in the Hor region |
| + | wear small brass bells hanging from their hair and belts, and their movements are |
| + | accompanied by the soft jingling of these bells. |
| + | |
| + | Women's headdresses vary a great deal according to locality and tribe. In the region |
| + | of Nag-tshang in the district of the Great Lakes, a peculiar oval frontlet is worn by |
| + | the women, somewhat reminding one of the ancient headdress worn by Russian women. It is |
| + | ornamented with turquoise and silver. In other places, conch shells are plaited into the |
| + | hair. Large, oval earrings and numerous necklaces of coral, turquoise and silver are |
| + | commonly worn by women and girls. A nomad woman wears all her wealth on her person and |
| + | by the profusion of silver and turquoise one can judge her family's standing. |
| + | |
| + | The men generally have long, matted hair, sometimes arranged in two long braids that |
| + | hang down on both sides of the forehead. Over the eyes, the hair is often cut in a |
| + | fringe. The tribal chiefs and wealthy herd owners wear pigtails often reaching well |
| + | below the knee. The pigtails, into which horsehair is often plaited to make them longer |
| + | and thicker, are frequently adorned with broad rings of red cloth upon which are fixed |
| + | coral, turquoise and silver ornaments and sometimes heavy charm boxes or *ga-u*. |
| + | |
| + | The Bön-po lamas of the Hor region have their heads shaved. Tantric lamas or |
| + | *ngag-pas* of the Yellow Hat sect, who live and practice among the Hor-pas, wear |
| + | their hair in braids similar to those of the laymen. The wealthy class wear coats girded |
| + | with a narrow leather belt, ornamented with silver or brass. On the chatelaines of the |
| + | belts hang knives, flint pouches, needlecases, and silver ornamented sheaths containing |
| + | chopsticks. |
| + | |
| + | The armament of the Hor-pas consists of Tibetan swords, lances, and modern magazine |
| + | rifles. The old Tibetan matchlocks are very seldom seen and so far as I know, are only |
| + | used in New Year ceremonies to drive off devils. The nomads always go armed. The |
| + | difficult and dangerous life on the Tibetan highlands makes it a necessity. All the men |
| + | carry long swords, which remind us of the blank weapons of the European early Middle |
| + | Ages. The best swords come from the Province of Kham in eastern Tibet, and high prices |
| + | are offered for famous swords that have killed the greatest number of enemies, on the |
| + | blades of which stains of blood can still be seen, for a sword is never cleaned after |
| + | battle and is returned bloodstained to the scabbard. According to a Tibetan Bön-po |
| + | legend, the sidearms and shields were also introduced into Tibet during the spread of |
| + | the Bön religion from the land of Shang-shung and Bru-sha. |
| + | |
| + | As in the epics of our Middle Ages, the swords of Tibetan heroes possess names. Famous |
| + | swords come from the so-called Kesar lha-khang, or Temple of Kesar, situated near |
| + | Jyekundo in northeastern Tibet. It is said that after completing his campaigns, King |
| + | Kesar deposited all his arms in this temple. The ceiling of the temple is made of long |
| + | swords and lances instead of beams. During the recent Sino-Tibetan war, a number of |
| + | these swords were stolen by Tibetan soldiery and are now offered for fabulous prices. |
| + | The swords are of three varieties. The long, straight Tibetan sword with broad blade, |
| + | made of iron, can be considered the national arm of Tibet. The hilt of the sword has no |
| + | handguard, and curiously reminds one of the European swords of the early Middle Ages. |
| + | The scabbard is usually ornamented with silver or brass nails, turquoise, and corals. It |
| + | is made of wood and is covered with black leather. The edge of the scabbard is often |
| + | handsomely decorated with floral designs combined with animal *motifs*. The hilts |
| + | are often covered with fish skin, sometimes with thin yellow or red leather. It would be |
| + | interesting to study the origins of these long and broad-bladed Tibetan swords. A study |
| + | of the question points toward the long and straight Sarmatian swords, that were |
| + | introduced into China during the First Han Dynasty. |
| + | |
| + | Besides these long swords, the Tibetan nomads carry short, dagger-like swords in richly |
| + | ornamented scabbards. The best daggers are said to come from Bhutan. Their hilts are |
| + | covered with a coat of mail. |
| + | |
| + | To the third variety belongs the heavy, slightly curved saber, or |
| + | *sho-lang* carried in Chinese fashion attached to the left side of the saddle |
| + | under the rider's leg. This saber is most likely an importation from China, and is |
| + | used only by military and civil officers. |
| + | |
| + | Another favorite blank arm is the spear. Two kinds of spears are used, the long spear |
| + | and the dart. The long and heavy spear, some three meters in length, is used by mounted |
| + | men in a cavalry charge. The spearheads are made of iron and sometimes ornamented with a |
| + | geometrical design which is painted red. Among the nomad tribes of northeast Tibet, and |
| + | the Hor-pas, the long spear is a sign of war. When a tribe intends to begin war against |
| + | another tribe, the long spear is carried out of the tent. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan dart is made of hard wood imported from east Tibet or Szu-ch'uan. The |
| + | spear staff is wound with an iron braid. A large metal ring is fixed at the end of the |
| + | staff and another ring slides loosely along the staff. When in action a string is tied |
| + | to both rings. The rider keeps the string and staff in his raised hand, then lets loose |
| + | the staff, and throws the dart, keeping the end of the string in his hand. The dart |
| + | flies with a rattling noise made by the loose ring on the iron braid of the staff. After |
| + | the ring reaches the end of the spear staff, the spear drops and the rider pulls it back |
| + | into the saddle. Great strength and good horsemanship are needed in throwing such a |
| + | dart. This weapon is used by the nomads of north and northeastern Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Another commonly used arm is the sling made of plaited yarn. It is useful in war and |
| + | peace. In everyday life, the Hor-pas use the sling to drive their herds and caravans of |
| + | yaks. A single man can drive a big herd or caravan of yaks by throwing stones with his |
| + | sling at the animals. The Tibetan word for yak driver is *lakpo* (Tib. |
| + | *lag-rdo*) which literally means "a hand with a stone." |
| + | |
| + | Archery is almost never practiced and during our stay among the Hor tribes and other |
| + | nomads of Tibet, we did not see a single bow in the possession of tribesmen. Arrowheads |
| + | sometimes discovered in the ground are said to be petrified lightning and to possess |
| + | magical powers. |
| + | |
| + | The lasso, favored by Kirghiz tribesmen on the Russo-Turkestan border, is unknown among |
| + | the Hor-pa tribes. In order to catch a horse, they proceed with a very strange maneuver, |
| + | which invariably proves successful. A man crawls toward the horse with his hand |
| + | stretched out toward the right front leg of the animal. Then he gently touches the right |
| + | leg and rubs it, gradually going higher until he has reached the horse's neck and |
| + | seized the bridle. This curious way of catching a bad horse is commonly practiced |
| + | throughout Mongolia and Tibet. With a Mongol or Tibetan horse this is the only way to |
| + | approach and get hold of the animal. |
| + | |
| + | A common scourge of all the nomad districts of Tibet are the bands of brigands who roam |
| + | in the vicinity of trade routes and wealthy encampments. Sometimes there are bands of |
| + | professional robber tribes from northeastern Tibet. A band of armed robbers consists of |
| + | some twenty or thirty mounted and well-armed men, with light baggage carried on pack |
| + | ponies, that are led by horsemen. A party can cover long distances daily and make |
| + | surprise attacks on caravans and camps. Brigand horses are said to be the best in the |
| + | country. They are trained to obey strange, shrill sounds emitted by the rider. The rider |
| + | whistles and the horse doubles its pace. A shrill, rising sound will make the horse leap |
| + | in full gallop. Such horses cannot be ridden by ordinary riders, who have no knowledge |
| + | of the sounds that guide them. |
| + | |
| + | When a band of robbers has been sighted in the neighborhood, all the nomad encampments |
| + | move in haste into the mountains to some remote valley and the tribal chiefs summon all |
| + | the available men of their militia to fight the intruders. Our expedition often met |
| + | large parties of mounted men, riding at great speed. Some robbers had been sighted in |
| + | the vicinity and these men were hastening to fight the band. |
| + | |
| + | During such fights prisoners are seldom taken and wounded men are never abandoned on the |
| + | battlefield. The robbers even manage to carry away their dead. In famine years that |
| + | follow a cold and snowy winter, or an epizoötic of cattle, whole districts turn to |
| + | brigandage. It is then the turn of government troops to suppress the evil. |
| + | |
| + | The tribal militia is maintained by the orders of the Lhasan Government. In case of war, |
| + | each tent has to equip one rider, and give him sufficient provisions to last for one |
| + | month's campaigning. The arms, ammunition, and horses all belong to the men. A |
| + | mobilization order is sent on a piece of red cloth attached to an arrow. The arrow is |
| + | dispatched by a special rider who gallops to the nearest headman and hands it over to |
| + | him. The headman takes notice of the contents of the order and immediately dispatches a |
| + | fresh rider to another headman. In a few days the whole of the countryside swarms with |
| + | men-at-arms. The troops from northern and northeastern Tibet are said to be the bravest |
| + | in the whole of Tibet, and there is a belief, that a warrior from eastern and northern |
| + | Tibet, whenever he goes to battle, has to die in the fight. In the recent fights on the |
| + | Sino-Tibetan border units composed of tribesmen from northern and east Tibet made their |
| + | name dreaded by the enemy, but sustained the heaviest casualties. |
| + | |
| + | Besides military duties in time of national danger, the tribal militia has another |
| + | important duty to perform—the guarding of the long Tibetan boundary line. All along the |
| + | northern Tibetan border, that roughly passes along the Marco Polo or Angar Dakchin |
| + | Mountains, stand outposts of militia which watch the caravan routes leading from |
| + | Mongolia and China. Such a post usually consists of six to ten men who live in the black |
| + | tent of the nomads. It is their duty to scout the neighborhood and to report to the |
| + | nearest frontier authorities any approaching caravans. One can imagine life on such |
| + | outposts, situated sometimes hundreds of miles from the nearest inhabited point of Tibet |
| + | and on an elevation of some fifteen to sixteen thousand feet. The men are obliged to |
| + | live on *tsam-pa* and hunt wild yaks and *kyangs*. In winter such outposts |
| + | are sometimes completely cut off. Many riders sent to reëstablish communication perish |
| + | on the way and are devoured by wolves and bears. |
| + | |
| + | The nomad tribes of the northeast, north and some of the tribes in western Tibet, |
| + | practice the ancient religion of Tibet, the so-called Bön religion of nature worship and |
| + | necromancy. Weird rituals are performed by wild looking, errant priests attired in black |
| + | robes. Bön is prominent in the region of western Hor and holds undisputed sway over all |
| + | the Hor tribes. With the advent and establishment of Buddhism during the reign of the |
| + | Tibetan King Ti-srong de'u tsen (Khrisrong sde'u-btsan) in the eighth century |
| + | A.D. the Bön religion was relegated to the distant frontier districts of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | At present most of the Bön-po colonies, besides the Hor-de, are found in the northeast |
| + | of Tibet in the region lying between Derge and the grazing grounds of the Golok, in |
| + | easternmost Kham, in the forest country of Kong-po. Along the northern route to western |
| + | Tibet, Nain Singh mentions the Bön-po colony of Wang-po (dbang-po) on the north shore of |
| + | the Lake Dangra yum-tsho. Western and southern Tibet also have important colonies of |
| + | Bön-pos. The Tsang Province of central Tibet is rich in Bön-po monasteries, which are |
| + | also found on the Nepalese border. The Bön-po monastery nearest to Lhasa is situated in |
| + | the upper part of the Phem-po ('phan-po) Valley, north of the Tibetan capital. |
| + | |
| + | During the reign of King Lang-dar-ma (ninth century A.D.) the Bön doctrine returned to |
| + | power for a brief interval, for after the violent death of the king, the Bön doctrine |
| + | was again persecuted and Buddhism gained the upper hand. The Bön-po priests were |
| + | banished and many Bön practices suppressed. Since that time, the Bön religion has become |
| + | the doctrine of the minority, relegated to distant uplands and preserved in a few |
| + | families, as is often the case in the Tsang Province. Our knowledge of the Bön religion |
| + | is still very imperfect. Only a very limited number of texts has been edited and |
| + | translated. The rest of the voluminous literature still remains a closed book. The |
| + | Bön-po terminology presents insurmountable difficulties, for it is hard to obtain the |
| + | services of a well-read Bön-po priest who will agree to part with his knowledge of the |
| + | doctrine. To collect information about this primitive religion, relic of a remote past, |
| + | is much more difficult than to gather information about the Tibetan form of Buddhism. |
| + | First of all, the Bön fraternities are found in places difficult of access, and |
| + | secondly, the Bön-po adepts are recalcitrant in giving information to foreigners. They |
| + | usually profess utter ignorance about the tenets of their faith and deny the existence |
| + | of manuscripts or printed texts. |
| + | |
| + | During the expedition's stay in the Hor region, information about Bön-po books was |
| + | only occasionally obtained, mostly from travelers who had visited Bön-po monasteries or |
| + | seen sacred texts in the tents of wealthy Bön-pos. Only after three months' stay was |
| + | I able to gain the confidence of some of the Bön-po priests and gain access to their |
| + | libraries. |
| + | |
| + | The pages which follow contain some of the results obtained during this stay. A detailed |
| + | study of the Bön doctrine will be appended to the translation of the |
| + | *Ye-shes ñi-ma lha'i rgyud* or the "Tantras of the Gods of the Sun of |
| + | Wisdom," an extensive Bön-po text which is in the course of preparation. |
| + | |
| + | Bön is a composite doctrine in which ancient forms of the shamanistic ideas of higher |
| + | Asia are blended with beliefs and practices of a nature religion of the primitive |
| + | population of northwestern India. Whether this primitive cult goes back to an |
| + | Indo-European antiquity, or, as I am inclined to believe, to a pre-Aryan stratum of |
| + | population, is still impossible to decide definitely. |
| + | |
| + | There exist two forms of Bön: One the primitive nature worship, full of shamanistic and |
| + | necromantic rituals, and sometimes bloody sacrifices (in former times human sacrifices |
| + | were commonly made, nowadays only animals, sheep, goats, or their substitute clay images |
| + | are sacrificed); the other the reformed Bön, or Bön adapted to Buddhism. Dr. J. van |
| + | Manen has rightly pointed out the link that exists between the ancient Bön and the old |
| + | school of Padmasambhava. He says: "This statement has to be interpreted in the |
| + | sense that the compromise effected by Padmasambhava has resulted in mutual concessions |
| + | and adaptations which make it difficult to say where, in present practice, the purely |
| + | native and the Buddhist foreign elements begin and end." |
| + | |
| + | In the first form of Bön, we meet gods of heaven and earth, of sun and moon, of stars |
| + | and of the four quarters. To this form of Bön belongs the circle of legends about King |
| + | Kesar, and Dr. A. H. Francke has shown in his valuable monograph on the Tibetan marriage |
| + | songs the mythological character of Kesar and his consort, 'Bru-gu-ma, who have a |
| + | close affinity to the old deities of earth. The primitive Bön doctrine is still |
| + | represented by errant exorcists, who never belong to settled fraternities. Their holy |
| + | places are not marked by monasteries or chapels, but are represented by crude stone |
| + | altars, or stone monuments in the form of menhirs or cromlechs. Sometimes the stone |
| + | altars are situated on the summits of mountains, sometimes in secluded caves amid rocks |
| + | and towering cliffs. I am convinced that the megalithic monuments discovered by the |
| + | expedition all along the pilgrim route to Mount Kailasa are such sacred places of nature |
| + | worship. A detailed description of these monuments will be given in the chapter devoted |
| + | to the description of the Great Lake region of Tibet. These megalithic monuments, |
| + | menhirs, cromlechs, and alinements, first discovered by the expedition, undoubtedly |
| + | belong to the pre-Buddhistic period of Tibetan history, when primitive Bön was the |
| + | accepted faith of the country. |
| + | |
| + | The reformed Bön is highly complex. It not only possesses all the deities of the |
| + | Vajrayana—or the Tantric form of Buddhism elaborated by Padmasambhava—but has its own |
| + | arrangement of the deities. |
| + | |
| + | From my conversations with the Bön-po lamas it appears that the Bön form of |
| + | Samantabhadra or Bön-sku Kun-tu bzang-po is regarded to be the supreme deity of the |
| + | Bön-po. He occupies in the sect a position analogical to that of Samantabhadra in the |
| + | Tantric sects of unreformed Buddhism and the Adi-Buddha in the Kalacakra doctrine of the |
| + | ninth to eleventh centuries A.D. We have reason to suppose that the Kun-tu bzang-po or |
| + | "All good" of the reformed Bön represents the ancient Father Heaven of |
| + | primitive Bön. In Bön the Kun-tu bzang-po is associated with Ma-btsun-pa—Mother Nature |
| + | or Mother Earth, a deity, who still preserves much of her primitive character of |
| + | all-potent Mother Earth. Her images are often found in charm boxes or *ga-u* worn |
| + | by Bön-pos. |
| + | |
| + | Besides these supreme deities we hear of a host of other divine beings, most of which |
| + | are personified nature forces and malignant ghosts. An old deity is Garuda or Cha-khyung |
| + | (Bya-khyung) which figures on many Bön images and paintings, and probably belongs to the |
| + | ancient Indo-Tibetan stock of Bön. It would be highly interesting to study the origins |
| + | of the cult of Garuda in connection with the numerous representations of the eagle and |
| + | the griffin in the nomad art of central Asia and southern Russia. On Bön frescos we meet |
| + | an endless host of *dkar-phyogs lha*, "Gods of the White Quarter" (or |
| + | "benevolent gods") and *nag-phyogs lha* or "Gods of the Dark |
| + | Quarter" (malignant deities). The belief in nature forces, personified by divine |
| + | beings or *lha*, is common to both forms of Bön. Each place possesses its own |
| + | countryside god or *yul-lha*, and *'dre* or demon. The *lha* is |
| + | usually benevolent, but sometimes of a difficult nature and the people of the place have |
| + | a hard time keeping the deity satisfied. |
| + | |
| + | In one of the Bön-po villages in the upper Tsang Province we saw a fine field on the |
| + | river bank, uncultivated but carefully fenced. Considering the relative scarcity of |
| + | arable land, I was much surprised to see that fine piece of land left uncultivated and |
| + | inquired for the reason. The reason was that a local *lha*, domiciled in a cliff |
| + | rising over the field, took a strange liking to this field and every time the peasants |
| + | tried to plough it, a hailstorm would destroy the crops. A local Bön-po priest explained |
| + | the will of the deity, and since then the field has been left alone and a stone wall |
| + | built around it. Such is the influence of this religion, that men will renounce the best |
| + | of their fields and consecrate them to the local deity. |
| + | |
| + | Each mountain pass possesses a *lha* of its own and some of these deities are |
| + | known for their fierce character. Some of them object to rifle firing, and will send |
| + | hail and storm if a shot is fired in the vicinity, others are antagonistic to travelers |
| + | in general. |
| + | |
| + | The *düd* or *'dre* are malignant spirits always bent upon mischief. |
| + | They will drive away horses at night and thus cause a delay to travelers. Some of the |
| + | localities along the great caravan routes are famous for the activity of demons or |
| + | *tong-dre* and the caravan men take special precautions to prevent the stampede |
| + | of their horses and mules. |
| + | |
| + | All these Bön divinities, who rule the destinies of men, are designated by the general |
| + | name of *gYung-drung lha rnams* or the "Gods of the Svastika." The word |
| + | *gYung-drung* or "Svastika" is not only synonymous with Bön, but often |
| + | stands for *Byang-chub* or *Bodhi*, which is enlightenment in Bön |
| + | terminology. The will and teachings of these gods were delivered to mankind by the |
| + | teacher Shen-rap or Shen-rap mi-wo "the man Shen-rap." We have seen several |
| + | Bön-po texts on the life of this teacher. His legendary life has been strongly |
| + | influenced by the Buddha legend. Take for example the scene of the lament of the old |
| + | Brahman gSal-khyab-'od-ldan, as related in the *gSer-myig*, who is too old to |
| + | hear the future teaching of the newly born Redeemer, and the analogical episode in the |
| + | life of Buddha,—the visit of the *rishi* Asita to the newly born Bodhisattva. |
| + | |
| + | The story of the youth of Shen-rap has much in common with the respective episodes of |
| + | the Buddha legend. The work of the Redeemer Shen-rap was continued on earth by a |
| + | succession of teachers, who are usually represented on frescoes attired in the monastic |
| + | costume of the Nying-ma-pas, or unreformed Buddhists. We are as yet unable to say much |
| + | about this line of Bön-po teachers. It seems likely that the establishment of Bön |
| + | monastic fraternities was started only during the Buddhist period. The primitive Bön |
| + | religion had no monasteries. The Bön monastery is an adaptation of a Buddhist model and |
| + | the monastic rules are largely taken from Buddhist sources. Large Bön-po monasteries |
| + | exist in the Jya-de Province and northeastern Kham. The region of Nup-hor counts at |
| + | least three monastic establishments. |
| + | |
| + | The Tsang Province is known for its Bön-po monasteries. At Chatu gompa, a large village |
| + | in western Tsang, there are three large Bön-po monasteries. Several famed Bön |
| + | monasteries and hermitages or *ri-tö* (*ri-khrod*) are reported to exist |
| + | on the Nepalo-Tibetan border. Sarat Chandra Das in his |
| + | *Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet* gives a brief description of a well-known |
| + | Bön-po monastery, Ri-jyal chen-tar (Ri-rgyal gchan-dar), visited by his companion Lama |
| + | Urgyen. Unfortunately the author does not describe in detail the images and frescoes |
| + | seen by Lama Urgyen in the monastery. We possess only scant information about the |
| + | literature of the Bön-pos. The literary monuments of the Bön-pos can be conveniently |
| + | described under the following four headings: (1) The two great Bön collections of sacred |
| + | texts, in all some three hundred volumes; (2) national epics, heroic songs and some |
| + | *rnam-thar* or legendary history; (3) popular songs; (4) incantation books, |
| + | manuals on magic rituals. |
| + | |
| + | The codification of the Bön doctrine and the creation of the voluminous religious |
| + | literature dates from the Buddhist period, that is, it is posterior to the ninth century |
| + | A.D. So far we had no knowledge of the existence of a Bön *Känjür* and |
| + | *Tänjür*. We only surmised that large Bön-po monasteries undoubtedly possessed |
| + | large libraries of Bön-po literature. It was the good fortune of our expedition to |
| + | discover two complete collections of Bön-po scriptures at the Bön-po monastery of |
| + | Sharugön, four days northeast of Nag-chu dzong. The Bön *Känjür* or Translated |
| + | Commandments consists of one hundred and forty large volumes. The collection is |
| + | evidently an imitation of the Buddhist *Tripitaka*. It not only has the threefold |
| + | division of the *Tripitaka* (*Bön-sde-gsum*) but imitates the Buddhist |
| + | *Känjür* in the external arrangement of the volumes and their contents. The title |
| + | of each text is given in two languages. Sometimes it is the *Shang-shung skad* or |
| + | "language of Shang-shung," sometimes it is the |
| + | *gYung-drung lha'i skad* or "language of the Svastika gods." All |
| + | these languages are unintelligible and are probably artificial. |
| + | |
| + | The Tibetan language is invariably called "the language of men" (*gang-zag mi-wo'i skad* |
| + | or *mi-wo'i skad*). Most of the texts are designated by the name |
| + | *rgyud* or *tantra*, which seems to stand for the Buddhist *mdo* or |
| + | *sutra*. A great number of texts included in the Bön-po *Känjür* were |
| + | composed in the Golok territory of northeastern Tibet. Many were written in the Bön |
| + | hermitages southwest of Shigatse, reputed to be one of the sacred countries of the Bön. |
| + | In the lifetime of the famous Tibetan monk-poet, Milarepa (XI A.D.) the Bön-pos were |
| + | numerous and powerful on the Nepalese borderland and there exists a large cycle of |
| + | legends telling of the religious disputes held by Milarepa and Naro Bön-chung, the Bön |
| + | teacher. |
| + | |
| + | The Bön *Tänjür* or Translated Commentaries, consists of one hundred and sixty |
| + | volumes. It contains commentaries written by various Bön-po teachers on the Tantras of |
| + | the Bön *Känjür*, said to have been revealed by Shen-rap, the Redeemer. A number |
| + | of texts explain the intricate points of the essence of the Bön doctrine |
| + | (*Bön-ñid*), a notion which has its counterpart in the *stong-pa ñid* of |
| + | the Mahayana Buddhism. |
| + | |
| + | These treatises are almost untranslatable because of their terminology. I was told by |
| + | the abbot of the Sharugön Monastery that no printed copies of the Bön scriptures exist, |
| + | and that all existing copies are manuscript. This particular copy of the Sharugön |
| + | Monastery was executed in the Golok territory and had an exceptionally beautiful cursive |
| + | script. The orthography of such manuscripts is as a rule antiquated and reveals many of |
| + | the peculiarities common in Tibetan manuscripts discovered by Sir Aurel Stein and Paul |
| + | Pelliot in the walled-up library of Tun-huang. The Bön-po manuscripts are often written |
| + | in gold and silver on thick black paper, but usually in black or red ink. In the |
| + | Sharugön copy the front pages bearing the title of the text were invariably painted |
| + | black and written in gold. Such manuscripts written in gold are costly and take years to |
| + | complete. Only very few Bön monasteries can boast of possessing sets of the two |
| + | collections. |
| + | |
| + | The second class of Bön literature is represented by the great nomad epic of King Kesar, |
| + | the mighty warrior, whose deeds are chanted in sixteen volumes. All copies of this |
| + | important work are in manuscript form. So far as it is known it has never been printed |
| + | and the existing copies are jealously preserved in the families. For the nomad of |
| + | eastern and northern Tibet, the legend of Kesar is not a mere epic, it is his religion, |
| + | his embodied hope for a better future which is framed on the model of the glorious past. |
| + | |
| + | The modern epic of Kesar is a composite production, which consists of ancient nature |
| + | worship in which the cults of the Sun, the Moon, the Stars, and the Seasons, are blended |
| + | with an epic of the great warrior king, who once ruled somewhere in northeastern Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Grünwedel and Potanin endeavored to prove that the saga of Kesar was influenced by the |
| + | legends about Alexander the Great, so popular in the East, and that the name Kesar was |
| + | nothing but a Tibetan rendering of Kaiser—Caesar. In my opinion the ballad is an |
| + | autochthonous creation of nomad central Asia and I believe Dr. N. Poppe is right in |
| + | presuming that the greater part of the ballad originated among the nomad tribes of |
| + | Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | The historical background of the legend takes us far back into the past of the great |
| + | nomad empires of central Asia. The Kesar epic sings of the deeds of King Kesar, his |
| + | prowess and feats of strength during his youth and his several victorious campaigns |
| + | against the King of Hor and other nomad chiefs. The east Tibetan origin of the epic is |
| + | shown in the story about its origin. The story probably began among the Yellow sect |
| + | lamas, for it exhibits a certain amount of contempt toward the ballad. It is related |
| + | that the Kesar ballad has nothing historical in itself. It was composed by a famous |
| + | Tantric lama (*ngag-pa*) who was at the same time a great bard. Once, in a moment |
| + | of intoxication, he began to sing and sang the whole of the Kesar ballad. The native |
| + | place of this Tantric was northeastern Kham and the ballad was composed by him there. |
| + | |
| + | The nomads of Kham and Hor understand the ballad differently. According to them it is |
| + | not a production of a single bard, largely due to the imagination of the singer, but is |
| + | a poetical record of ancient wars that were fought in the past. According to some |
| + | authors and the collection of heroic songs, entitled *rGyal-drung*, King Kesar |
| + | lived in the eighth century A.D. According to still another tradition, King Kesar was a |
| + | mighty nomad warrior, who lived in the time of King Srong-btsan sgam-po and Khri-srong |
| + | lde'u-btsan in the border country of Mongolia and China, in the territory now |
| + | incorporated in the modern Province of Shan-hsi. |
| + | |
| + | The seventh and eighth centuries A.D. were a period of great unrest among Tibetan nomads |
| + | and an epoch of the greatest expansion of Tibetan power outside the frontier of Tibet |
| + | proper. My own researches in the field have convinced me that the kernel of the ballad |
| + | originated during this period and that in it were incorporated episodes from ancient |
| + | tribal epics, going back to remote antiquity, probably pre-Mongolian and pre-Tibetan in |
| + | their origin. In its present form the Kesar ballad is probably of a comparatively late |
| + | date. It is an ancient monument of nomadic poetry, produced by the creative efforts of |
| + | several nomad nations. In its present form the ballad is extremely popular in Mongolia |
| + | and even among the Turkish tribes of central Asia. Dr. N. Poppe says that the Mongol |
| + | version of the Kesar ballad originated in southern Mongolia. According to him the many |
| + | Tibetan names in the Mongol text seem to indicate that the Mongol version is a |
| + | translation from a Tibetan original. The Mongol version was published in Peking in 1716 |
| + | A.D. in the reign of K'ang-hsi and has been translated by I. J. Schmidt. |
| + | |
| + | During the Manchu rule, King Kesar was proclaimed under the name of Huang-ti, the divine |
| + | protector of the Manchu Dynasty. In Tibet all temples dedicated to Huang-ti are said to |
| + | be Kesar lha-khangs or temples of Kesar. |
| + | |
| + | The Asiatic Museum of the Russian Academy of Sciences, possesses a Tibetan Kesar ballad |
| + | in two large volumes. During the expedition's stay in the Hor region, I discovered a |
| + | Kesar ballad in sixteen manuscript volumes—each chapter of the epic having a separate |
| + | volume. |
| + | |
| + | In Tibet and Mongolia, the epic of Kesar is still constantly enriching itself with new |
| + | songs and episodes. New episodes are added to the old groundwork of the ballad and |
| + | messianic ideas attached to the figure of Kesar Khan. Kesar is said to return again to |
| + | earth and lead the nomad tribes against a powerful enemy who will arise to establish the |
| + | Kingdom of Evil. |
| + | |
| + | During the lengthy stay among the nomads of Hor, the expedition succeeded in collecting |
| + | additional data, which clearly establishes the important fact that a new chapter in the |
| + | voluminous epic of Kesar is about to be written. In Mongolia also, a new chapter on the |
| + | future exploits of Kesar is in process of creation. These new additions have the |
| + | character of prophetic songs. |
| + | |
| + | The well-known Mongol scholar Ts. J. Jamtsarano points to the fact that the verbal |
| + | version of the Kesar ballad is considerably larger than the written one. It seems as if |
| + | the nomad tribes of Mongolia and Tibet, agitated by some hidden unrest, seek inspiration |
| + | in the ancient lore of their past. |
| + | |
| + | Besides the great epic of Kesar, several *rnam-thar* or legendary histories are |
| + | said to exist among the Bön-po population. None of them is printed. If they are found, |
| + | they will furnish important data on the religious, cultural, and historical evolution of |
| + | the Bön doctrine. A large number of popular songs exist among the Bön-pos. Dr. A. H. |
| + | Francke collected a good many of them during his long stay in Ladak and Lahul. Properly |
| + | studied and analyzed, they too may furnish important facts. |
| + | |
| + | Many incantation books and magic manuals exist in manuscript form. Some of them are |
| + | utterly untranslatable, others necessitate a vast, detailed knowledge of the Bön-po |
| + | Pantheon. A knowledge of the Bön-po *mandalas* or mystic spheres of influence is |
| + | essential for a proper understanding of these texts. |
| + | |
| + | Then for the study of the reformed Bön, the Bön *Känjür* and *Tänjür* are |
| + | of the utmost significance. The remaining three sections chiefly contain material for |
| + | the reconstruction of the primitive form of Bön. The only historical Bön-po text so far |
| + | known is the rGyal-rabs Bön-gyi-byung-gnas, by Sarat Chandra Das, but I am told that |
| + | other historical works in the form of *chos-byung* or church histories exist. So |
| + | far none of such works has come to light. |
| + | |
| + | The Bön-po monastery of Sharugön was built some twenty years ago. The necessary funds |
| + | were raised by popular subscription among the five nomad tribes of the western Hor. It |
| + | is situated in a narrow gorge of granite rocks on the banks of the river Chu-na-khe at |
| + | the foot of a picturesque granite mountain that shelters the monastery from the |
| + | prevailing southwest winds of the Tibetan upland. |
| + | |
| + | The approach to the monastery is guarded by a high *stupa* or |
| + | *mchod-rten* crowned with a pair of yak horns. (It is known that the custom of |
| + | setting animal skulls and horns on *mani*-walls, stone cairns, and |
| + | *stupas* is Bön-po in origin.) The *stupa* is painted white and has |
| + | yellow, red, and blue stripes on its steeple, symbolizing the three spheres of the |
| + | Universe: *stan-lha*, the region of gods, *bar-btsan*, the middle region, |
| + | and *gyog-klu*, the abode of *Nagas*. |
| + | |
| + | The monastery consists of two assembly halls or *du-khangs*, situated in a small |
| + | inclosed courtyard paved with large slabs of flat stones. The old *du-khang* is |
| + | situated to the right of the entrance gate and is a two-storied building. The assembly |
| + | hall proper occupies the first floor, on the second floor there is a small |
| + | *lha-khang* or temple, which contains most of the monastery's collection of |
| + | images. |
| + | |
| + | The new *du-khang* is a stately stone building, erected some six years ago. It is |
| + | not yet completely furnished. The walls are adorned with frescoes, which although new, |
| + | present a great interest for a student of iconography. The rest of the courtyard is |
| + | occupied by monastery store-rooms and cells for the monks. During the expedition's |
| + | visit the monastery had five resident monks. Some of the wealthy monks belonging to the |
| + | monastery lived with their families in the vicinity. The head lama or *khan-po*, |
| + | the only fully ordained monk of the monastery, did not live in the convent itself but in |
| + | a hermitage or *ri-tö* belonging to the monastery and situated behind the |
| + | mountain range that shelters the monastery from the northeast. Both the |
| + | *du-khangs* or assembly halls are ornamented in the usual Tibetan style, and |
| + | there is very little difference between the ornamentation used in the orthodox Yellow |
| + | Hat or Nying-ma-pa monasteries and the Bön-po sanctuaries. The carved wooden columns at |
| + | the entrances and inside the halls are ornamented with the traditional dragons and |
| + | floral designs and painted in bright colors. Both of the *du-khangs* contain |
| + | paintings representing the legendary life of the founder of the Bön religion, Shen-rap |
| + | ton-pa, and images of the divine beings of the Bön-po Pantheon. So complete is the |
| + | similarity of symbols, that one could imagine himself in an orthodox Buddhist monastery. |
| + | The Buddhists maintain that the Bön-pos imitated Buddhist images and symbols, but the |
| + | Bön-pos are of the opinion that the early teachers of Tibetan Buddhism took over many |
| + | Bön-po deities and symbols. At present we are not in a position to decide which of the |
| + | statements is true. |
| + | |
| + | The similarity of Bön and Buddhist paintings is due to some extent to the fact that |
| + | temples are often decorated by laymen artists, who paint Buddhist symbols and Bön-po |
| + | images alike and involuntarily transfer Buddhist symbols to a Bön-po painting and |
| + | *vice versa*. Such was the case with the wall paintings in the Sharugön |
| + | monastery. All of the paintings were executed by a layman-artist, Buddhist by religion, |
| + | who painted the frescos under the guidance of the monastery's head lama. |
| + | |
| + | The Bön scriptures are imperfectly known and very few Bön images have been studied and |
| + | described. So far no Bön-po iconographical manual has been found, and the iconographical |
| + | knowledge of the sect seems to rest with a limited number of priests and artists. |
| + | |
| + | The chief place on these wall paintings is occupied by the Bön-po Redeemer, Shen-rap |
| + | mi-wo. He is usually represented in the aspect of a fully enlightened Buddha, attired in |
| + | purple monastic robes, austere and somber and devoid of ornaments. His left hand reposes |
| + | in the sign (*mudra*) of meditation (*dhyani-mudra*) and supports the |
| + | monastic bowl or *patra*. His right hand is lowered making the sign of |
| + | attestation (*bhumisparsha mudra*) and is holding the Bön scepter. The scepter is |
| + | similar to the Buddhist *vajra* or *dorje*, but instead of having a crown |
| + | on each end, it has a cube with images of the Svastika on the five sides of the cube. |
| + | The color of the body is yellow ochre and the robe is red and purple, sometimes |
| + | ornamented with gold or yellow color designs. The similarity to the images of Sakyamuni |
| + | is evident, the only difference being the Bön-po scepter. To the left of the Founder is |
| + | usually represented the future teacher of the Bön-pos. He is depicted in the attire of a |
| + | Buddhist bodhisattva with golden diadem on his head and gold ornaments inlaid with |
| + | precious stones on his shoulders, arms, and legs. Both the hands repose in the posture |
| + | of meditation and support the *amrita vase* or *tse-bum* filled with |
| + | *amrita* or *bdüd-rtsi*, with the letter "A" on it, which is the |
| + | Bön-po counterpart of *om*. The color of the face and body is yellow ochre, |
| + | sometimes golden. It is the color of the Bodhisattva Maitreya. To the right is often |
| + | seen the Bön form of the Buddha of Medicine, called by the Bön-pos, Sangs-rgyas |
| + | sman-bla. The color of the body, instead of being dark ultramarine blue, as in the |
| + | Buddhist images, is light yellow. The Bön-po "god of medicine" does not have |
| + | the aspect of a Buddha, but is attired as a bodhisattva. His hands repose in the sign of |
| + | meditation and support the monastic bowl, with the *udumbara* flower emerging |
| + | from it. |
| + | |
| + | Another common image on the wall paintings is the Bön counterpart of the white Tara, the |
| + | goddess Ma-btsün-pa, Mother Nature. Her raised right hand holds the stalk of the |
| + | *kumuda* flower. In all other respects the Bön-po and Buddhist images of the |
| + | goddess are identical. The Bön-po form of the All-Merciful One or Avalokitesvara with |
| + | eleven heads and innumerable arms is identical to the lamaist form. Only one of the |
| + | hands is seen holding a Bön *vajra* with the image of the Svastika. |
| + | |
| + | Another frequent representation is the image of the goddess Sitatapatraparajita. Her Bön |
| + | form has a yellow body, instead of the white coloring of the Buddhist image. The symbols |
| + | held by the deity in her numerous hands are similar to those on Buddhist images, except |
| + | for one hand, which is holding the Bön *vajra* with the image of the Svastika on |
| + | it. A pair of hands is folded at the breast and holds the image of fruit, putting forth |
| + | a flower. (The Buddhist goddess holds the sacred stone or *cintamani*.) |
| + | |
| + | Another popular deity of the Bön-po Pantheon is the black Garuda or Khyung-nag, |
| + | represented holding a serpent in his beak. This form of Garuda is also known in Lamaism |
| + | but probably is of Bön-po origin. One of the walls of the principal hall in the new |
| + | *du-khang* is adorned by a large image of the Bön-po form of Vajrapani, holding |
| + | the Garuda and *vajra*. The abbot or *khan-po* of the Sharugön monastery |
| + | called it Bön-gyi phyag-rdor or Bön-po Vajrapani. He could not tell me the Bön-po name |
| + | of the divinity. It is difficult to say whether we have to do with ignorance on the part |
| + | of the Bön-po priesthood, or that the Bön divinities are called by the same names, as in |
| + | Lamaism. The relative frequency of the name *phyag-rdor* in Bön texts seems to |
| + | indicate the fact that the name belongs to Bön-po terminology or has been taken over by |
| + | the Bön-pos. |
| + | |
| + | The rest of the walls of the principal hall are covered with frescoes representing Bön |
| + | forms of Vajradhara, Vajrakila, Yamantaka, Demchog, Palden Lhamo, and even a Bön form of |
| + | Kalacakra represented on the walls both in its mild and fierce forms. The head lama of |
| + | the monastery told me that there exist a number of texts on Bön-po Kalacakra. It would |
| + | be interesting to compare them to the Kalacakra system of Buddhism. All these deities |
| + | are seen holding the Bön *vajra* with the Svastika symbol and the fruit with the |
| + | emerging flower. Some of the divinities are depicted with garlands of flowers on their |
| + | heads. All of them are represented seated, or standing on low thrones or |
| + | *asanas*, with images of a lion, an eagle, and an elephant. |
| + | |
| + | The second floor is occupied by several big rooms, which are always used in Tibetan |
| + | monasteries as abbot's quarters. The rooms have also a number of frescoes |
| + | representing the legendary life of Shen-rap mi-wo. It is easy to identify the scenes of |
| + | his life, which are, as I have already told, influenced by the Buddha legend. A fresco, |
| + | occupying an entire wall, depicts different Bön teachers—all sitting in rows and attired |
| + | in the robes of the Red sect lamas. Some of the represented personages wear white |
| + | mantles over their dark purple lama coats. As yet we are unable to tell the story of the |
| + | line of Bön teachers. |
| + | |
| + | Another interesting fresco represented a Bön *tshok-chin* or Assemblage of Bön |
| + | divinities, with Bön *sku kung-tu bzang-po*, occupying the upper portion of the |
| + | frescoes, and the Shen-rap mi-wo in the center, assisted by a host of Bön divinities and |
| + | saints. Another fresco probably represented the seven saints or heroes, called |
| + | *Pa-wo rap-dün* (*dpa-wo rab-bdun*). These are probably identical with the |
| + | seven *a-khu* or "uncles," assistants of King Kesar. The Bön |
| + | *Tänjür* is preserved in the new *du-khang*, where a special room is |
| + | fitted as a library. |
| + | |
| + | The old *du-khang* on the opposite side of the courtyard has an altar, a painted |
| + | wooden glass case in which stand clay images of Shen-rap mi-wo and the lama |
| + | "Promulgator of the Bön faith," as the Bön priest called him, represented with |
| + | his right hand holding the stalk of a lotus flower supporting the religious book or |
| + | *legs-bam*—a purely Buddhist symbol taken over by the Bön-pos. The similarity of |
| + | the image to that of the Buddhist reformer, rGyal-wa Tsong-kha-pa, is apparent. Before |
| + | the images burn large offering lamps (*chos-me*) made of massive silver and there |
| + | stand the usual eight happy offerings. In other respects the arrangement of the altar is |
| + | identical to that of the Buddhist temples. All of the other walls are occupied by |
| + | shelves or *kün-ra* containing the hundred and forty volumes of the Bön |
| + | *Känjür*. |
| + | |
| + | Above the bookshelves hang a number of masks used in religious dances that take place in |
| + | summer. An opening in the roof gives access to the flat roof of the *du-khang*. A |
| + | tree trunk with incised steps serves as a ladder. Every morning at sunrise, a lama |
| + | ascends to the roof and sounds the conch inviting the monks to the morning service. |
| + | During one month's residence at the monastery, we seldom saw religious services held |
| + | there. The head lama was always absent at his hermitage and the rest of the monks |
| + | attended to their own domestic occupations. |
| + | |
| + | In December, 1923, the monastery was used as soldiers' quarters for a detachment of |
| + | Tibetan troops sent in search of the Tashi Lama, who had just left Shigatse for China. |
| + | |
| + | Outside the inclosure are found numerous stone images of Shen-rap ton-pa, attired as a |
| + | Bön bodhisattva or gYung-drung sems-pa, holding a magic scepter, and several |
| + | inscriptions on stone of the Bön-po formula *Om-ma-ni-hri-mu-ye-sa-lendu*. |
| + | Corresponding to each group of letters is one of the eight happy signs or |
| + | bkra-shis rtags-brgyad, which are represented under the |
| + | inscription. |
| + | |
| + | The present Bön-po population is not very strict in the observance of Bön rites and one |
| + | often sees Tantric lamas or *ngag-pas* from the Sera Monastery of Lhasa, |
| + | practicing among a Bön-po population. There is, however, a certain amount of antagonism |
| + | between the Buddhist and Bön-po monasteries. The Bön-po lamas are credited with |
| + | possessing a dangerous knowledge of hidden things and a night spent in a Bön-po |
| + | monastery might bring misfortune. In our case, the death of the Major's wife from |
| + | pneumonia, was popularly considered to have been caused by the anger of the titular |
| + | deity of the monastery. The head lama of the monastery, an old man with curly hair and |
| + | almost negroid features, once asked me: "You are a student of the doctrine of |
| + | Buddha, how can you interest yourself in our Bön scriptures? The two doctrines do not go |
| + | well together, for the one excludes the other." Lamaist Mongols have a great |
| + | aversion for the Bön-po faith, which is commonly known to them by the name of |
| + | *Khara-nom* or "Black Faith." |
| + | |
| + | Some of the Bön-po lamas in the Hor region are quite wealthy, possessing large herds of |
| + | yaks, flocks of sheep, and well-furnished, private libraries. They all live in tents. |
| + | Sometimes two or three tents are put together to form one tent long enough to quarter |
| + | all the family and some of the servants. Many of such lama householders are successful |
| + | traders and sell tea bricks to the population, which they receive from Ssu-ch'uan, |
| + | and other commodities. The local nomads profess great respect toward them and invariably |
| + | address them as *Kusho rimpoche* or *lama-la*, Precious Sir, or Venerable |
| + | Teacher. All the Bön-po laymen wear charm boxes or *ga-u* on their necks and |
| + | across the shoulder, and turn prayer wheels in an opposite direction. Close to their |
| + | tents stand big poles with prayer flags and one sometimes sees yak and horse tails fixed |
| + | to the poles. |
| + | |
| + | One of the important results of the expedition was the discovery of the "animal |
| + | style" among the nomad tribes of northern Tibet. This "animal style" |
| + | consists of decorative *motifs*, composed of animal figures, which are sometimes |
| + | combined to form most striking ornamental compositions. Some of these |
| + | *motifs* are highly stylized and have a long development behind them. The artists |
| + | who produced them were keen observers of nature, and knew well the character and habits |
| + | of the animals they were depicting. The style spread over immense regions and was common |
| + | to all nomad tribes of higher Asia. The center of this great nomadic culture that so |
| + | powerfully influenced the art of its more civilized neighbors was in the Altai |
| + | Mountains, a region which abounds in gold and metal ore and in forest fauna often |
| + | portrayed on objects in "animal style." |
| + | |
| + | It is difficult to say whether the "animal style" was associated with any |
| + | particular physical type of men. I am inclined to think that it originated among nomad |
| + | and hunting tribes of great ethnic variety, but living in similar surroundings, for only |
| + | in this way we are able to explain the immense spread of the "animal style" |
| + | from the steppes of South Russia to the very confines of China, and from the Siberian |
| + | forest country to the mighty heights of the Trans-Himalayas in Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | Tibet has always been open to tribal migrations from the northeast. The forefathers of |
| + | modern Tibetans invaded the country from the northeast. The high table-lands of the |
| + | Koko-nor with an average elevation of some ten thousand feet and the surrounding |
| + | mountain country afforded sufficient grazing for the moving hordes and their cattle. It |
| + | is from this gigantic *place d'armes* that the hordes of ancient Tibetans, |
| + | displaced by some other mighty human avalanche, were forced to seek new pastures, |
| + | overrunning the valleys and plateaus of Tibet. |
| + | |
| + | In historic times Tibetan tribes have had a good deal of intercourse with Iranian and |
| + | paleo-Asiatic tribes that roamed over the vast expanses of the Chinese borderland. |
| + | Modern research has established the fact that Iranian tribes were the carriers of the |
| + | "animal style." During the Han epoch (206 B.C.-220 A.D.) Iranian military |
| + | equipment was introduced into China, and with it came the rich ornamentation in the |
| + | neo-animal style, so-called to distinguish it from the Scythian animal style of south |
| + | Russian steppes. |
| + | |
| + | The earliest known account of a penetration of foreign central Asian elements into the |
| + | country populated by Tibetan tribes (K'iang of the Chinese Annals) is found in the |
| + | *Shi-ki*, by the famous historian Ssi-ma ts'ien: "Up to the time when |
| + | Lao-shang, shan-yü of the Hiung-nu, killed the king of the Yue-chi (Iranians) and made a |
| + | drinking vessel out of his skull, the Yue-chi had lived between Tun-huang (now Sha-chou) |
| + | and the K'i-lien (a mountain southwest of Kan-chou fu) but when they were beaten by |
| + | the Hiung-nu, they fled to a distant country and crossed to the west of Yüan (Ferghana), |
| + | attacked Ta-hia (Bactria) and conquered it. Subsequently they had their capital in the |
| + | north of the K'ui-shui (Oxus) and made it the court of their king. The minority |
| + | which were left behind and were not able to follow them, took refuge among the |
| + | K'iang (Tibetans) of the Nan Shan and were called Siao-Yue-chi (small |
| + | Yue-chi)." |
| + | |
| + | We are concerned here only with the end of the above passage. A section of the Yue-chi, |
| + | an Iranian tribe of central Asia inhabiting the modern Kansu Province and southern |
| + | Alashan (whether the Yue-chi were a homogeneous tribe of Scythian origin, or an |
| + | agglomeration of kindred tribes of similar habits of living, we are totally unable to |
| + | decide at present), had wandered into the mountain country south of the present Kansu |
| + | Province of China, and became gradually amalgamated with the autochthonous Tibetan |
| + | population of the mountains. These riding nomad tribes brought with them their nomad |
| + | culture and tribal epics. They also brought that highly conventionalized art of nomad |
| + | central Asia, distinguished by animal ornamentation and the long and heavy swords, which |
| + | are still the favorite arm of Tibetan nomads. Important finds of textiles and metal |
| + | objects in "neo-animal style" have been discovered by General P. K. Kozlov in |
| + | the Noin ula Mountains, north of Urga in Mongolia, but nothing was known about the |
| + | existence of this art in Tibet. From the discoveries of the Roerich Expedition, it |
| + | appears that the very same style was in vogue in the metal-working region of Derge, one |
| + | of the best art provinces of Tibet, and among the tribes of north and northeastern |
| + | Tibet. Among the Hor-pas it is still cultivated and the accompanying illustrations show |
| + | several objects in Tibetan "animal style." |
| + | |
| + | (1) *Tinder and Flint Pouch*. The pouch comes from the western Hor region. It is |
| + | made of black towed leather, ornamented with brass figures of animals. It is distinctly |
| + | central Asian, and belongs to the "animal style." The animal figures represent |
| + | female deer with their young. |
| + | |
| + | The execution of the animal figures and their decorative treatment attest the close |
| + | affinity of this object to the central Asian nomad art. In the center of the pouch is a |
| + | brass plate with representations of the eight happy signs (*ta-shi tag-gye*). |
| + | |
| + | (2) *Tinder and Flint Pouch*. The pouch comes from the same region. It is made of |
| + | black towed leather, ornamented with brass figures of animals. We see on it two |
| + | conventionalized figures of foxes picking fruit from a tree. The treatment of the two |
| + | figures and the presence of the tree between them—are frequent on Scythian and Siberian |
| + | antiques. |
| + | |
| + | (3) *A brass buckle representing a two-headed eagle inside a circle*. The buckle |
| + | comes from Ching-kar, a place west of Nag-chu. Plaques |
| + | representing two-headed eagles have been discovered in the Kuban barrows of northern |
| + | Caucasus. The two-headed eagle *motif* can be traced back even to the Hittite art |
| + | of Asia Minor. |
| + | |
| + | Such flint pouches and buckles in "animal style" were found by us only among |
| + | the Hor-pas. The Chang-pas of the Great Lake region already have the ordinary Tibetan |
| + | flint pouches, ornamented with coral, turquoise and metal nails of silver, brass, but |
| + | seldom with gold. |
| + | |
| + | (4) *Running Deer*. This figure of a running deer has been taken from a brass |
| + | charm box coming from Derge, now in the collection of Mr. S. N. Roerich. The eight happy |
| + | signs of Tibetan ornamentation are combined with the figures of running deer. The |
| + | deer's figure unmistakably belongs to the nomad art characterized by the |
| + | "animal style." The head of the deer is turned backward, and this is a |
| + | characteristic and frequently seen *motif* in Scythian and Siberian antiquities. |
| + | The treatment of the animal's muzzle and eyes—all have their analogies in the |
| + | antiquities found in the barrows of south Russian steppes and southern Siberia. |
| + | |
| + | (5 and 6) Two of the illustrations shown have been taken from a silvered iron pen case |
| + | from Derge. On this pen case made of massive iron, among ordinary floral ornamentation |
| + | we see a stylized figure of a sitting deer and a swan. The *motif* of the sitting |
| + | deer, elks, or stags is well known in Scythian and Siberian antiquities. The figure of |
| + | the swan is already under the strong influence of Chinese ornamental art. This figure is |
| + | a product of a Chinese workshop producing art objects for the use of border tribes. It |
| + | is interesting to note that the swan on our pen case corresponds almost in every detail |
| + | to the figure of a long necked bird (a swan?) with spread wings, found on a piece of |
| + | embroidery, discovered by General P. K. Kozlov in the Noin ula Mountains. The pose of |
| + | the bird and the treatment of the wings are similar in both cases. The left wing is |
| + | raised, the right one is lowered and forms a sharp angle. There can be no doubt that the |
| + | two figures came from one common central Asian source, and represent some mythological |
| + | figures. |
| + | |
| + | (7) *Lion plaque in S. N. Roerich Collection*. Another remarkable example of |
| + | central Asian nomad art in the "animal style" is found in the collection of S. |
| + | N. Roerich. He drew my attention to an iron silvered plaque in relief coming from Derge |
| + | in northeastern Tibet. This unique object represents a lion with his head turned to the |
| + | left toward the onlooker. The animal's mane hangs about its head in thick tufts. The |
| + | treatment of the animal's body is unusually powerful. It is represented sitting on |
| + | its hind legs with its tail raised as if attracted by some noise and ready to jump. The |
| + | background is formed by two stylized trees. Under the lion's figure one sees a hilly |
| + | country, with highly stylized hills. |
| + | |
| + | It is difficult to determine what was the use of the plaque. The two square openings on |
| + | both sides seem to be made for a piece of leather, which was passed under the plaque. |
| + | The plaque could be used as a breast ornament or as a buckle for a belt. Among the |
| + | objects discovered by the Kozlov Expedition in the tumuli of the Noin ula Mountains, is |
| + | found a metal plaque in relief representing a standing bull with his head lowered and |
| + | turned to the left. |
| + | |
| + | In comparing the two plaques, one can readily see the similarity of composition. On both |
| + | plaques the principal figure is that of an animal standing from right to left with head |
| + | turned toward the onlooker. It is difficult to say whether the Kozlov plaque represents |
| + | a yak. I am inclined to think that it represents an aurochs. The treatment of the |
| + | animal's fur in both cases is analogical. Both plaques have a background of two |
| + | stylized trees. The plaque in the S. N. Roerich Collection has as its background two |
| + | trees branching out over the lion's head. These trees suggest a country with a |
| + | warmer climate, whereas the Kozlov plaque has two pine trees that speak of the northern |
| + | origin of the object. It seems that the two objects depict an animal |
| + | *motif* current in the southern parts of this artistic province and the aurochs |
| + | plaque on its northern border. Both plaques depict highly stylized mountains, probably |
| + | covered by forest. |
| + | |
| + | Mr. Percival Yetts, in his article on the Kozlov finds, gives the opinion that the |
| + | Kozlov plaque served as a *phalara* or harness ornament. He draws attention to |
| + | certain features that recall the Sassanian silver plate found around the upper course of |
| + | the Kama. |
| + | |
| + | The ancient plaque in the S. N. Roerich Collection is a striking example of the nomad |
| + | art, as it is found among the tribes of northern Tibet and the great metal-working |
| + | region of Derge and Amdo. |
| + | |
| + | All these objects irrefutably attest the existence of the ancient central Asian nomad |
| + | art in Tibet. The mountainous character of the country with its inaccessible valleys, |
| + | helped to preserve many reminiscences of a remote antiquity, and its nomad population |
| + | treasures much of its central Asian past. So far attention has been paid only to the |
| + | religious art of Tibet, its colorful painted banners and fine bronzes. Now a new |
| + | province of Tibetan popular art has been opened, that is the pre-Buddhistic art of |
| + | Tibetan nomad tribes, relic of a remote past. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,167 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 18 |
| + | |
| + | Sharugön, January 4, 1928. A cold night, the thermometer at -30° C. Toward morning the |
| + | cold became still more intense, and we shivered under the canvas of our summer tents. At |
| + | about half-past seven the sun appeared from behind the mountain opposite our camp and |
| + | relieved us a little. The day promised to be sunny. We took our usual walk in the |
| + | morning along the bank of the frozen river and noticed lammergeyers sitting on the rocks |
| + | about the monastery, as if expecting some prey and indeed, toward evening one of the |
| + | local guardsmen brought the news that the Major's wife had died that morning. |
| + | "Sir," he said, "the Major has been oppressing the poor people of the |
| + | place and did much harm to Your Honor and therefore the protecting gods of the monastery |
| + | punished him." Several days before I had told the Major that pneumonia could not be |
| + | cured at such an altitude and in such dreadful conditions. |
| + | |
| + | Rumors were current that the Joint-Governors of Nag-chu on arrival at Tsom-ra had again |
| + | returned to Nag-chu. A local headman, a short man with a sly face and quiet manners, |
| + | came to see me in my tent and repeated the usual local grievances. He told me that the |
| + | region had been taken over by the Government of Lhasa some twelve years ago. "Under |
| + | Chinese rule we lived much more happily," said the headman, "but now are |
| + | suffering from heavy taxes levied by the Tibetans, who reduced our people to utter |
| + | poverty. Do not believe the Tibetans. Since the time we became Tibetan mi-ser (peasants |
| + | or subjects) four chyi-chyab or High Commissioners changed, but we did not see any |
| + | justice from them." Our conversation was interrupted by a soldier from the Major |
| + | who came to tell us that the Joint-Governors of Nag-chu were due to arrive the next day. |
| + | |
| + | Everybody rejoiced, seeing in this the probable end of our detention. The local people |
| + | were particularly pleased as they were tired of serving us and the Major and his |
| + | soldiers. In the evening, when the moon rose above the rocks, the new guards sang the |
| + | Kesar saga and accompanied their song by a weird dance. "Today Kesar's horse |
| + | arrived, today the sun will rise, on the glacier the lion will walk about," sang |
| + | the Hor-pas, – a passage from the song about the war of Kesar against the King of Hor. |
| + | Their shrill voices rose high in the solitude of the night. In singing the Kesar song |
| + | they wished us good luck on our way to far distant India. Their song was abruptly |
| + | stopped by a Kham-pa. "Do not sing so loudly," said the man, "otherwise |
| + | the Tibetans in the monastery will hear you and will be angry with you." The song |
| + | stopped abruptly and the audience dispersed, each going to his tent. We stayed outside |
| + | for some time, speaking of the strange fascination that the Kesar saga has on these |
| + | simple-minded nomads. We slept little that night. The Major ordered the camp for the |
| + | Governors to be erected during the night, and there was a continuous going and coming |
| + | the whole night. Next morning at about ten o'clock two Tibetans arrived: the |
| + | *do-nyer*, or representative, accompanied by the cook of the Governor. They were |
| + | dressed in the usual Tibetan style, with enormous fur caps, and carried *ga-u* or |
| + | incantation boxes. They had Russian rifles adorned by *khatags* and multicolored |
| + | flags. |
| + | |
| + | About noon a general commotion announced the arrival of the Joint-Governors, who |
| + | proceeded at once to their tents. An hour later the Governors sent a message, informing |
| + | us of their visit. We all assembled in the dining tent. The Governors came in |
| + | procession, followed by a number of retainers, who carried presents for us—two bags of |
| + | barley for one hundred animals, *tsam-pa* and tea of very inferior quality! The |
| + | Nag-chu *khan-po* was a middle-sized man of about sixty, dressed in the usual red |
| + | and purple lama dress. He was considered a very able diplomat in Tibet, and was known |
| + | under the name of Gomang garpön. In his youth he entered the Gomang da-tshang of the |
| + | Dre-pung Monastery, but left the monastery for China, where he led an errant life, |
| + | visiting different parts of China, Mongolia, and even Siberia. Afterward he spent five |
| + | years in government service in Peking, where he met Rockhill, and seven years as Tibetan |
| + | trade agent at Sining in the Kansu Province. He possessed a very fluent knowledge of |
| + | Chinese and some knowledge of Mongolian. He was a square-jawed gentleman, and had the |
| + | reputation of being extremely arrogant and difficult to deal with. He wore black Chinese |
| + | spectacles, trying apparently to intimidate us by his ferocious appearance. |
| + | |
| + | According to his own words, he had been living in retirement for several years at Lhasa, |
| + | when the most lofty Government of the Holy Protector, fearing a Chinese advance from |
| + | Kansu, appointed him, the faithful servant and diplomat of the Government, possessing |
| + | detailed knowledge of "eight great countries," to the Governorship of |
| + | Nag-chu-ka. Notwithstanding his being married, the Dalai Lama himself conferred upon him |
| + | the rank of *tse-drung*, given usually only to celibate monks. |
| + | |
| + | His colleague, the Civil Governor or *nang-so*, was no less distinguished in the |
| + | government service. He was an elderly gentleman, wrinkled in the service of his |
| + | Government. He appeared before us attired in a dress of Chinese yellow brocade, and a |
| + | Manchu hat. His name was Gong-kar, and his son had studied military science in India |
| + | with a Gurkha battalion. The Governor spent most of his life in different |
| + | *dzong-khas* or provincial districts in Tibet. When Tibet was fighting the |
| + | Chinese, he mobilized troops in Nam-ru. In 1918 he was attached to the Teichman Mission |
| + | in Kham, and saw some service under the Kalön Lama, the Tibetan Commander in Chief |
| + | during the Sino-Tibetan war of 1917-18. Before his coming to Nag-chu, he had been |
| + | *dzong-pön* or governor in Kong-po, where he had met Colonel Bailey and Captain |
| + | Morshead. From this list of their distinctions we could be sure that we had to do with |
| + | experienced diplomats, fully trusted by their Government. |
| + | |
| + | On learning of the objects of the expedition, the *khan-po* exclaimed that he was |
| + | very pleased to hear all this, but since Tibet is a religious country, unconcerned with |
| + | affairs of the outside world, the Government of the country does not permit foreigners |
| + | to visit Tibet proper. We pointed out to him that they had admitted foreigners in 1904 |
| + | and that there was a British detachment stationed at Gyangste. The Governor only smiled |
| + | and assured us that all British subjects had been driven away from Gyangste, and that he |
| + | never heard of British troops in that place. We asked him for permission to send a wire |
| + | from Lhasa to Sikkim, but the Governor insisted that there was no wire communication |
| + | between Lhasa and India. "When Minister Bell negotiated the treaty, there was a |
| + | need of telegraphic communication, but now since the treaty has been concluded, the |
| + | telegraphic line has been broken down. The British did not keep their promises and did |
| + | not teach the Tibetans how to make gunpowder." |
| + | |
| + | The Governor further informed us that his government does not permit British, Russian, |
| + | Chinese, and Japanese subjects to enter Tibet proper, that is the Ü and Tsang Provinces, |
| + | and although there is no such provision against Americans in existing treaties, to which |
| + | Tibet was a signatory power, they could not allow us to proceed because the British, |
| + | Russians, and Japanese would take advantage of this precedent and penetrate into the |
| + | country. The Joint-Governors told us that the usual way of dealing with foreign subjects |
| + | arriving at the Nag-chu border was to send them back either to Sining or to Ladak, but |
| + | in our case the authorities were ready to consider our demand to let us cross Tibet to |
| + | India. The *khan-po* added that according to instructions received from Lhasa, he |
| + | and his colleague would give us caravan animals to replace ours, and supplies as far as |
| + | the frontier of India. |
| + | |
| + | In replying we informed the Joint-Governors, that treaty provisions could not be applied |
| + | to us in any case, as we were no intruders and were in possession of an official |
| + | passport delivered to us by the Tibetan representative in Mongolia. We insisted that we |
| + | be allowed to visit Gyangste, in order to confer with the British Trade Agent stationed |
| + | there, and mentioned that many foreign subjects had lately visited the Tibetan capital, |
| + | especially General Pereira, who crossed Tibet in 1922 to India. The Joint-Governors |
| + | declared all this to be lies, for according to them no such person as General Pereira |
| + | ever existed! They again and again referred to the general rule, that foreigners were |
| + | not allowed to enter inner Tibet (Pö-nang) but were free to travel in outer Tibet |
| + | (Pö-chyi) comprising all the provinces east of Chamdo, and the Province of Thö-nga-ri |
| + | kor-sum in the west. We continued to insist that we be allowed to cross to India by the |
| + | shortest route, if necessary avoiding Lhasa, Shigatse and Gyangste. The Tibetans asked |
| + | us to show them our proposed route on the map. We proposed the route across the Dam La |
| + | Pass, which crosses the territory of inner Tibet between Lhasa and Shigatse, and then |
| + | joins the Treaty Trade Route Lhasa-India at Phari dzong. |
| + | |
| + | This route had the great advantage of being much shorter than any of the circuit routes, |
| + | only some twenty days by pack to Phari dzong and it crossed rural districts of Tibet, |
| + | where supplies could be easily obtained. We again reminded the Joint-Governors that we |
| + | were no intruders, and possessed passports granted by the Tibetan representative in |
| + | Mongolia. "Why do you pay so much attention to a piece of writing given by this |
| + | miserable beggar?" exclaimed the *khan-po*. He was losing his temper and the |
| + | servants standing by impudently laughed into the sleeves of their fur coats. We |
| + | continued to insist on our point and advised the *khan-po* that if the Tibetan |
| + | Government did not recognize its official representative in Urga, it should immediately |
| + | notify the Chinese and Mongolian Governments of the fact. The Governors rose in tumult |
| + | and declared that they had to go and draft a new letter to Lhasa about us. We |
| + | accompanied the Governors outside the tent, and they at once retired to their camp. |
| + | Clouds gathered toward evening, indicating a probable change in atmospheric conditions. |
| + | |
| + | Snow fell during the night and a strong southwest wind violently shook our tents. The |
| + | day was miserable and the gale continued till about midnight. The Governors came again |
| + | to see us. We could not be allowed to proceed by the Dam La past Gyangste, but their |
| + | government was ready to arrange for our passage to Sikkim via Nam-ru, Nag-tshang and |
| + | Saga dzong. The whole journey would take only one month, for Saga dzong is only six days |
| + | from the Sikkim frontier! Poor Governors, did they try to deceive us, or was their |
| + | knowledge of their own country so deficient? Nothing was to be done and we had to agree |
| + | but asked that we should be allowed to cross the Trans-Himalayas into the Tsang Province |
| + | south of Nag-tshang. The Joint-Governors promised to transmit our request to the |
| + | Government. The *khan-po* asked us to come and visit him, as he would like to |
| + | have the list of supplies required by the expedition on its way to India. Three men |
| + | would start at once for Lhasa to buy them. |
| + | |
| + | At five o'clock in the afternoon we paid a return visit to the *khan-po*. The |
| + | Governor had his temporary headquarters in an ordinary *ba-nag* or black nomad |
| + | tent. We found him squatting on a low seat near the fireplace. The tent pole in front of |
| + | him was literally covered with firearms—several Russian cavalry rifles and German Mauser |
| + | automatic pistols, rendered harmless by excessive silver ornamentation. We again tried |
| + | to persuade the Governor to send our wires to Lhasa for further transmission to New York |
| + | and to Colonel Bailey, British Political Officer in Sikkim. The Governor again refused |
| + | to send the wires as the line between Lhasa and Gyangste had recently been damaged and |
| + | all British troops withdrawn from Gyangste and Chumbi Valley, which was now under full |
| + | Tibetan control. We told the Governor that we were rather surprised at this change in |
| + | the attitude of the Tibetan Government toward the British and asked him to explain the |
| + | situation. The answer was quite unexpected. The Governor accused the British of |
| + | introducing Bolshevism into the Tibetan army! |
| + | |
| + | Having settled the question of supplies, we returned to camp. The wind was howling, |
| + | driving sand and wet snow into our faces. Next morning the Governors left for Nag-chu |
| + | and we began our preparations for departure. We were now allowed to proceed to Nag-chu |
| + | and the local headmen left Sharugön to collect yaks and horses for us. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
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| @@ 0,0 1,92 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 19 |
| + | |
| + | It was still night when everyone rose and packed his bedding. March 4, 1928, will be |
| + | remembered by all members of the expedition as the end of their captivity in the |
| + | inhospitable uplands of Tibet. The dawn was softly coloring the sky and the snow peaks |
| + | of the Shang-shung Range lay behind a deep blue veil. Columns of smoke were rising above |
| + | the houses of Nag-chu but the streets were still completely deserted. The yak drivers, |
| + | or |
| + | *lakto* |
| + | in Tibetan, were taking their tea and |
| + | *tsam-pa* |
| + | , squatting near big fires laid on the pavement outside the gates of the expedition |
| + | headquarters. The loading of yaks began, and it took us almost three hours to start the |
| + | heavy caravan. We decided to leave Nag-chu after all the transport with the heavy |
| + | baggage had gone. |
| + | |
| + | At half-past eight everything was finished and the last section of the yak caravan left |
| + | and disappeared in a narrow gorge across the river. We started, followed by two |
| + | *do-nyers* |
| + | from the |
| + | *dzong* |
| + | , who were to accompany us to Nam-ru. Our Mongol servants who were returning to Tsaidam |
| + | bade us farewell and presented ceremonial scarfs. They were very sorry to see us depart |
| + | and feared trouble from the Joint-Governors. They had heard that the Tibetan servants of |
| + | Dr. Filchner were thrown into prison and apprehended a similar fate. While in Nag-chu, I |
| + | had spoken to the local authorities on their behalf and they promised to give our men |
| + | every assistance on their journey to Tsaidam. The expedition issued to them certificates |
| + | in Tibetan, requesting the Civil and Military Authorities of Tibet to give them adequate |
| + | help and protection on Tibetan territory, and a high Tibetan lama, who was traveling to |
| + | Tsaidam, agreed to take them with his caravan. Some four months later, I was gratified |
| + | to hear that all of them had safely reached their native pasture lands. |
| + | |
| + | Having crossed the river, which was still frozen hard, we ascended a spur, and the rocky |
| + | silhouette hid Nag-chu with its monastery from our view. An indistinct path wound along |
| + | the southern slopes of a low ridge stretching to the west. |
| + | |
| + | From now on, we would face the west for some fifty days. The sun warmed the air and the |
| + | march was pleasant. We had finally escaped from Nag-chu with its refuse heaps and were |
| + | now on our way to India. We knew that the road would be difficult and that the country |
| + | which we had to cross lay above 15,500 feet, and had several high mountain passes. The |
| + | *chang-thang* |
| + | or the uplands of northern Tibet is a country of elevated plains and valleys intersected |
| + | by mighty snow ranges, the highest of them stretching from west to east. Being obliged |
| + | to change some of our caravan animals on each stage, we had to halt near nomad |
| + | encampments, and this sometimes necessitated long circuits. Most of the nomad |
| + | encampments are in mountain valleys, protected from winter winds and gales. |
| + | |
| + | After a two hours' march along the southern slopes of the ridge which lay almost |
| + | parallel to the snow range of Shang-shung, we ascended a small pass on the northwest. |
| + | The progress along the northern slopes of the ridge was difficult, the horses frequently |
| + | sinking deep into the snow. Descending, we reached a narrow valley which lay west of the |
| + | pass. The frozen pools of water between hillocks made the march difficult. We followed |
| + | the valley for another two hours and at two o'clock reached a group of nomad encampments |
| + | pitched on the grassy slopes of nearby hills. Here we received the unexpected news that |
| + | our heavy transport on yaks, which followed another route from Nag-chu, along the crest |
| + | of the ridge, was traveling by the northern route some two miles distant from the place |
| + | where we were. We hastened northward and after fighting our way through a valley buried |
| + | under deep snow, we reached a small nomad encampment only to learn that no caravan had |
| + | been seen. |
| + | |
| + | A strong southwest wind blew soon after we reached the place and we decided to wait and |
| + | send men to look for the caravan. The wind lifted clouds of thin powder-like dust from |
| + | the heaps of dung left near the encampment by flocks of sheep and it was impossible to |
| + | stay there. The Colonel and I accordingly went in search of a cleaner place for the |
| + | camp. Across the valley we succeeded in finding a dry patch of ground sufficient to |
| + | accommodate all our tents, and waved to the rest of the party to join us. We remained |
| + | there for about an hour, squatting on the ground among stones and protecting ourselves |
| + | as far as possible from the bitter southwest wind. Suddenly a rider appeared, struggling |
| + | in the deep snow of the valley. He proved to be Ochir, one of our Mongols, who reported |
| + | that our horses and camels had reached the encampments on the southern route and that |
| + | the heavy transport on yaks was due to arrive by the same route. We at once started back |
| + | and recrossed the snow-buried valley. Our dog Kadru, tired by the long march, refused to |
| + | follow and had to be taken in the saddle. |
| + | |
| + | On reaching the southern route, we saw approaching the first group of yaks, carrying our |
| + | tents and the rest of the equipment required in the camp. Toward six o'clock camp was |
| + | pitched and we were able to rest a little after the long, tiresome march. The wind |
| + | abated and we were able to enjoy a calm, warm evening; the thermometer was at -1°C. The |
| + | last section of our heavy transport arrived only about eight o'clock in the evening, the |
| + | animals being exhausted by the snows along the crest of the ridge. We experienced some |
| + | difficulty in finding good water and fuel, for the local nomads had prepared everything |
| + | for us some ten miles farther on by the banks of a small river called Tsang-po. |
| + | Considering the late hour and utter exhaustion of the caravan animals, it was impossible |
| + | to break camp and proceed farther, and after some talk we got everything we needed for |
| + | the night. There was no water in the valley and we were obliged to thaw snow. The guide |
| + | who was sent with us from Nag-chu declared that he knew nothing of the route for the |
| + | next day and we had to arrange for another guide. |
| + | |
| + | A lama from Amdo, who happened to live among the nomads of this locality, tried his best |
| + | to arrange everything comfortably for us. I asked him how long it would take us to reach |
| + | the frontiers of India. He waved his hands and declared that Jagar or India was very far |
| + | off and that it would take us at least six months of strenuous journey! |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/2.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,17 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 2 |
| + | |
| + | On the sixth of March, 1925, the expedition left the hill station of Darjeeling, and |
| + | with it the friendly country of Sikkim. It is always a wonderful experience to travel |
| + | down the jungle-clad slopes of the eastern Himalayas. The tropical vegetation and the |
| + | endless stream of hill people who wander along the cart road are full of interest to |
| + | the traveler. |
| + | |
| + | In complete darkness, we reached Siliguri. The train was rolling over the low-lying |
| + | plain of Bengal — jungle-clad and fever-infected marshy tracts, and rice fields |
| + | already flooded. Through the blackness of the tropical night, one could see the |
| + | strange life proceeding around the glittering lights of numerous fires scattered in |
| + | the jungle and in front of small village huts, that stood here and there among palm |
| + | trees. Figures in white turbans anddhoti |
| + | moved about, and at the railway stations the air resounded with the high-pitched cries |
| + | of peddlers selling tea, drinking water, and cigarettes. The country seemed alive with |
| + | intense movement screened by the dusky veil of the night. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/20.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,61 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 20 |
| + | |
| + | April 20, 1928. The treasurer of the dzong did not arrive and we had to remain at Saga |
| + | dzong until his arrival. Everyone rested after the strenuous journey of the past ten |
| + | days. Our camp was pitched close to the trade route Ladak-Nga-ri-Saga dzong-Lhasa and |
| + | from early morning we could hear the melodious jingling of bells on the horses and mules |
| + | of passing travelers. Saga dzong is a governmental relay station on the trade route and |
| + | the administrative center of a vast district, which borders to the north on the |
| + | territories of Nag-tshang and Nga-ri; to the south and east on the district governed by |
| + | Dzong-kha, a fort situated on the Nepal border. |
| + | |
| + | The population of the Saga district consists exclusively of nomads, who breed yaks and |
| + | sheep. The annual tax is paid in produce, chiefly butter, wool, and hides. The headmen |
| + | of the district assemble yearly in the ninth month of the Tibetan year (about |
| + | October-November), to pay the annual tribute collected by officials from Lhasa. Saga |
| + | dzong has about thirty half-ruined stone and brick hovels. The official residence of the |
| + | Governors, or the dzong proper, is in the center of the village. The place was visited |
| + | by the British Gartok Mission under Captains Ryder and Rawling in 1904 and by Dr. Sven |
| + | Hedin in 1908. |
| + | |
| + | During our stay in Saga, both Governors of the fort were in Lhasa and the district was |
| + | administered by several deputies and the nyer-wa of the dzong, assisted by a deputy from |
| + | among the local headmen. The dzong had a garrison of thirty soldiers under a she-ngo or |
| + | non-commissioned officer, whose duty it was to police the district and enforce |
| + | governmental orders. The soldiers wore no uniforms to distinguish them from the local |
| + | population except for ammunition belts and a strip of cloth on their right shoulders |
| + | with the number of their company (mag-khang). The garrison of Saga is supplied by the |
| + | battalion of infantry stationed at Tingri on the Nepal border. The armament consisted of |
| + | Lee-Enfield rifles of an old pattern, all of which were in a very bad condition. |
| + | |
| + | Near the dzong there are numerous mani-walls and in the village itself there is a small |
| + | temple with a huge prayer wheel inside. The place is visited during the summer by |
| + | traders from the central provinces of Tibet and Nepalese merchants coming by way of |
| + | Dzong-kha and Nye-lam. The nomads chiefly trade in the local produce, salt, wool, and |
| + | hides. This year because of the exceptional snowfall, the trade routes were blocked and |
| + | most of the cattle perished from want of fodder during the winter. The population was |
| + | unable to obtain the necessary supplies of food and many families starved. During our |
| + | stay at the *dzong*, the village was full of beggars, who were in such a |
| + | desperate condition that they ate the carcasses of animals. The authorities were unable |
| + | to maintain the required number of relay horses on the stages along the route and to |
| + | send the annual tax to Lhasa. A petition was therefore presented to the Government, |
| + | requesting the Precious Protector to exempt the people of Saga dzong from taxes and |
| + | relay duty for the next year. |
| + | |
| + | In the early morning the officials of the *dzong* paid us a visit and brought the |
| + | draft of a letter announcing our passage, to be sent by special messenger to Tingri. The |
| + | authorities intended to send us to Tingri by a desert route and to make us cross the |
| + | Yaru tsang-po at a place above Kya-kya where two hide boats carried passengers and goods |
| + | across the river. They admitted that the boats were in bad condition and needed repair. |
| + | We resolutely protested against this plan and stated that we should be allowed to |
| + | proceed to Yanju and cross the river at Sharu. They finally agreed to this and sent the |
| + | messenger to Yanju but insisted that we should attach our personal seal in red sealing |
| + | wax to the document, for according to them, the peasants seeing only the official seal |
| + | of the *dzong*, would think that it was one of the annual levies of caravan |
| + | animals for the private use of the *dzong* and would refuse to comply promptly |
| + | with the order. Strange as it was, these local officials were deadly afraid of their own |
| + | people and gladly hid behind the backs of strangers. We pointed out to them that they |
| + | would be held responsible for any delay and detention at Saga, and that our passport |
| + | ordered all local authorities to supply us with all the necessities. They replied that |
| + | they were ready to give us a letter stating the causes of the delay and their inability |
| + | to supply us with adequate provisions. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/3.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,49 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 3 |
| + | |
| + | September 19, 1925 — a memorable day in the annals of the expedition! A fine autumn |
| + | morning with a light breeze from the mountains, wonderfully cool and refreshing. A large |
| + | crowd of local inhabitants gathered to see us start. The crossing of the Khardong Pass, |
| + | the first mountain pass on the Turkestan route, is usually effected on yaks, which have |
| + | to be hired from local peasants. The summit of the pass is covered by a glacier and the |
| + | pack horses have usually a bad time on it. When pack yaks are employed, the pack horses |
| + | and mules of the caravans are driven empty across the pass. This is the usual custom of |
| + | the country, no doubt prompted by many years of experience. We decided to follow it and |
| + | had ordered yaks several days in advance. For some reason or other, only half of the |
| + | required forty yaks appeared in the early morning at the dak bungalow. We were obliged |
| + | to wait the whole of the morning and a considerable portion of the afternoon, before all |
| + | the woolly beasts reached the bungalow's compound. As is customary, there was much |
| + | hustle and shouting, the local Ladak headman using his cane rather freely. |
| + | |
| + | At last, about four o'clock in the afternoon, the long caravan column left the dak |
| + | bungalow and filled the narrow road, which passes at the foot of the Leh Palace and |
| + | leads to |
| + | the small village of dGon-pa, |
| + | and farther into the mountains. A large crowd followed us on foot, wishing us a |
| + | successful journey. |
| + | We rode past the barley fields and the Zangskar Convent, whose white walls are an |
| + | outstanding feature on the plain north of Leh. |
| + | |
| + | After we had passed the last Ladaki village and barley fields, a group of Ladaki women |
| + | and girls approached our column. They held in their hands brimming cups of yak milk. We |
| + | all had to bow low in our saddles, and our foreheads and those of our animals were |
| + | sprinkled with milk. In doing so they wished us godspeed and a safe journey amid the |
| + | dangers of the forbidding Karakorum. |
| + | |
| + | For three hours we climbed the mountain. With each step, the country became more and |
| + | more barren. The verdant gardens and fields of Ladak lay behind; and ahead of us |
| + | towered the rugged mountains, their crests covered with glaciers and snow. Large |
| + | bowlders hung over the mountain slopes, and we crossed vast masses of débris |
| + | carried down the towering heights. |
| + | Our caravan of pack horses under Nazar Bai and Omar Khan went ahead, with orders to wait |
| + | for us at the northern side of the Khardong La in the small hamlet of Khalsar. |
| + | |
| + | We camped for the night on a stony promontory, close to a ruined stone hut. A piercing |
| + | northwest wind started soon after we had dismounted and we were obliged to seek |
| + | shelter among the neighboring cliffs. Our men, perched under the rocks in their gray |
| + | sheepskins, looked like gigantic vultures, gazing over the upland for some prey. The |
| + | yak caravan reached the spot only about ten o'clock at night. Its approach was |
| + | heralded by the loud shouting and whistling of the drivers. Soon there appeared a dark |
| + | moving mass, that slowly filled the open space on the small plateau of our camp. |
| + | In complete darkness we began unloading and our inexperienced camp men had some |
| + | difficulties in putting up the tents. The night was bitterly cold and the wind blew |
| + | continuously, abating only toward dawn. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/4.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,598 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 4 |
| + | |
| + | It was difficult to realize that we had reached Khotan, the ancient Kingdom of Jade, and |
| + | one of the most thriving oases of the Chinese Province of Hsin-chiang. The modern city |
| + | with its covered bazaars and dusty lanes, hides the visage of ancient Khotan, once an |
| + | important seat of Buddhist learning and emporium of central Asian trade. |
| + | |
| + | In the oldest Chinese Annals, the town is known by the name of Yu-t'ien. The native |
| + | name was Kustana, or Ch'iu-sa-tan-na in the Chinese transcription (another |
| + | transcription is Ch'iu-tan). |
| + | |
| + | Sir Aurel Stein, during his several archaeological expeditions in Khotan and its |
| + | vicinity, has discovered a mass of tablets inscribed in Kharoshthi, an Indian alphabet |
| + | current in the northwest of India about the beginning of our era. These documents give |
| + | us valuable insight into the everyday life of the great trading oases along the southern |
| + | caravan route, connecting Khotan with distant Tun-huang and the interior of China. |
| + | |
| + | During the pre-Mohammedan period of central Asian history, Khotan was inhabited by an |
| + | Iranian population, which spoke an Iranian dialect conditionally designated by the name |
| + | of Oriental-Iranian. |
| + | |
| + | The ancient city of Khotan and the other important oases along the trade route, had |
| + | large colonies of Indian merchants, carrying on a considerable trade with northwestern |
| + | India. It was probably these Indian colonies that introduced the Kharoshthi alphabet. |
| + | The population of Khotan was Buddhist, professing the Mahayana form. Chinese pilgrims, |
| + | who braved the dangers of the central Asian deserts in quest of knowledge from India, |
| + | have left us detailed accounts of the thriving state of Buddhism in the Kingdom of |
| + | Khotan and the wonderful religious zeal of its monarchs. |
| + | |
| + | There is little to glean from Mohammedan sources about the medieval history of Khotan. |
| + | It seems to have remained Buddhist even after the Mohammedan conquest of about 1000 A.D. |
| + | The Mohammedan author, Gardizi, says that the people of Khotan were Buddhist but he also |
| + | mentions a Mohammedan cemetery, north of Khotan, and two Christian churches in the town |
| + | itself (neither Christian nor Manichean relics have so far been discovered in Khotan). |
| + | |
| + | Ibn-al Athir mentions Kadir Khan Yusuf, who died in 1032 A.D., as the Mohammedan |
| + | conqueror of Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | During the period from the tenth century to the twelfth century A.D. Khotan was |
| + | conquered by the Ilek-khans and the Kara-Khitai. From the thirteenth century the ancient |
| + | kingdom owed allegiance to China and continued a semi-independent existence, under the |
| + | overlordship of China, until the eighteenth century, when it formed part of the State of |
| + | the Khodjas (saints). The Khodjas were followed by the Jungar Mongols, who held Khotan |
| + | until 1758 A.D. when the Oirat power crumbled under the decisive blows delivered by the |
| + | Chinese imperial troops. From that date, Khotan remained under Chinese control except |
| + | for a brief period beginning in 1863-64 when the oasis was invaded by Yakub Beg. After |
| + | his violent death in 1877 A.D. Khotan again accepted Chinese sovereignty and has |
| + | remained ever since under the overlordship of China. Such are the outstanding historical |
| + | facts in the life of the famous oasis. |
| + | |
| + | The ruins of the pre-Mohammedan town lie some five miles west of the modern town. Sir |
| + | Aurel Stein has gathered on its site important collections of small antiquities and |
| + | coins. The insurmountable obstacle to systematic archaeological excavations lies in the |
| + | fact that the ancient city is partly re-covered by a modern settlement and some |
| + | Mohammedan cemeteries, which it is impossible to disturb. |
| + | |
| + | From time to time landslides uncover terra cotta figurines and masses of ancient coins, |
| + | which usually fall into the hands of local treasure-seekers. For the past few years the |
| + | archaeological spoils have been very insignificant. The local people had quickly learned |
| + | to imitate terra cotta figurines of *stupas* and even animals, and the Khotan |
| + | market displays a good number of these spurious antiques. The profession of |
| + | treasure-seekers has almost disappeared and very few people care to visit the desert |
| + | tracts. |
| + | |
| + | Some of the local notables, aware of the value of genuine antiques, accumulate for |
| + | themselves considerable collections of smaller objects with an ultimate view of selling |
| + | them to wealthy foreigners. In such cases the prices are usually very high and the story |
| + | is told that the collection has been registered by the Indian Archaeological Department. |
| + | During our stay in Khotan, the veteran Indian *aasaqal*, Badruddin Khan, once the |
| + | local agent of Sir Aurel Stein, showed us a considerable collection of antiquities, |
| + | gathered by him and his agents at Yotkan, Rawak, Niya, Mazar Imam Jafar Sadik, and |
| + | distant Miran, all places explored by Sir Aurel Stein. This collection comprised |
| + | well-preserved stucco heads of Buddhas, jars with handles adorned with human and animal |
| + | heads, fragments of frescoes, objects in clay, such as votive *stupas*, offering |
| + | lamps, animal figures, etc. The collection included several wooden tablets inscribed in |
| + | Kharoshthi, torn fragments of a text in Oriental-Iranian, lists of Tibetan writings on |
| + | paper from the Miran site, containing mostly leave permits for soldiers of the Tibetan |
| + | garrison in the Miran Fort. (A curious detail is the constant use of the word |
| + | *dpa-o* for "soldier"; in the present-day language, the word has the |
| + | restricted sense of "hero.") |
| + | |
| + | Badruddin Khan had also a large manuscript with leaves bound together, written in the |
| + | central Asian slanting script, which was said to have come from some locality situated |
| + | between Aksu and Kuchar. |
| + | |
| + | The price he asked for the whole collection was exorbitant, and notwithstanding |
| + | protracted negotiations we were unable to lower it. Our limited supply of silver and |
| + | banknotes, the difficulty of obtaining a new supply from the outside, and the subsequent |
| + | difficulties with local authorities, forced us to drop the matter. I have heard since |
| + | that the collection has been acquired by some foreign travelers who visited Khotan after |
| + | our departure. |
| + | |
| + | The modern oasis of Khotan has about 150,000 inhabitants, with a considerable Chinese |
| + | colony of officials, their families, traders, and soldiers. The city consists of two |
| + | parts, the Kone-shahr or the Old City occupied by the Mohammedan population, and the |
| + | Yangi-shahr or New City, also called Han-ch'eng, the Walled Chinese City, built in |
| + | 1883. Throughout its history, Khotan was an important trading center on the ancient silk |
| + | route. The fame of Khotan artisans lives to the present day. Khotan silks, carpets, |
| + | felts, wool, furs, and jade are still in great demand, and command good prices |
| + | throughout central Asia, India, and distant China. Before the Revolution of 1917 |
| + | considerable trade was conducted with Russia through Irkeshtam. |
| + | |
| + | Khotan silk manufacture is the largest in the country, and Khotanese silk fabrics are |
| + | found in all the markets of Chinese Turkestan and a few years ago were exported in |
| + | considerable quantity to Russian Turkestan through Kashgar and the frontier outpost of |
| + | Irkeshtam. Besides silk fabrics, Khotan is noted for its cotton stuffs, which are |
| + | exported in large quantities. The Khotanese silk and cotton factories are largely worked |
| + | by female and child labor. We knew of several big Khotan merchants who owned some two |
| + | hundred girls and obliged them to work in their factories. A mild form of slavery is |
| + | still a distinct feature of Khotanese life. Parents usually have nothing against their |
| + | daughters or sons being sold to a family of good social standing, where they are well |
| + | cared for. Many have become slaves through being unable to pay their debts. The usual |
| + | price for a girl of fourteen is from fifteen to thirty Mexican dollars. A child of four |
| + | is often sold for a couple of dollars. Mohammedan merchants pay regular visits to the |
| + | Kansu Province, where they buy children under the age of five and transport them to |
| + | Turkestan to be sold to families. During our crossing of the Kansu Province we once came |
| + | across a party of boys and girls, all under five, sold to a wealthy Mohammedan merchant. |
| + | They all were sitting in a courtyard, learning to recite Mohammedan prayers. |
| + | |
| + | Besides silk and cotton stuffs, Khotan produces a large quantity of carpets. The old art |
| + | of carpet weaving was lost long ago and the modern factories produce imitations of |
| + | Chinese and old Persian carpets. Khotan carpets are found throughout central Asia. The |
| + | Kirghiz and Torgut traders from Jungaria and Karashahr pay yearly visits to Khotan, and |
| + | carry away a considerable portion of the yearly produce in carpets, which are used in |
| + | furnishing felt tents and monasteries. |
| + | |
| + | In recent years, Khotan felts have been in great demand. These felts are manufactured |
| + | all along the southern trade route between Yarkend and Khotan, but the center of |
| + | manufacture is undoubtedly Khotan. These felts are often vividly colored and have a |
| + | striking design. Most of the trade is done with India, where the felts are in growing |
| + | demand, not only for Indian markets, but also for foreign markets. Khotan sheepskins are |
| + | valued throughout Chinese Turkestan and are commonly used as winter lining for coats and |
| + | winter caps. The skins are well tanned and compare favorably with the other |
| + | fur-producing centers of Turkestan, such as Kashgar, Aksu, and Kuchar. |
| + | |
| + | The present jade manufacture is very insignificant. The trade received a rude shock |
| + | during the rule of Ma Fu-hsin, the Ti-t'ai of Kashgar, who ordered the exportation |
| + | of a number of skilled artisans from Khotan for his jade works in Kashgar. |
| + | |
| + | As an agricultural center, Khotan occupies an important place. It is well watered and |
| + | the fertile beds of alluvial loess afford ample opportunity for agriculture. |
| + | |
| + | Wheat, corn, barley, and rice are cultivated on an extensive scale. The oasis boasts of |
| + | many fruit orchards, where apples, pears, apricots, grapes, melons, etc., are grown. |
| + | |
| + | The sight of modern Khotan is unattractive for one who is accustomed to the rich |
| + | coloring of the mountain tracts. For hours one rides along dusty lanes, lined with |
| + | poplars. On either side are half-ruined clay structures—farm houses, *mazars* or |
| + | tombs, roadside mosques, or endless brick walls which fence off plots of waste land. The |
| + | covered bazaars are evil smelling and only the exceptional dryness of the climate |
| + | prevents epidemics. The bazaar streets are narrow and are always blocked by fruitstands |
| + | and hawkers, who wander through the dense crowd. Most of the shops are open, and the |
| + | goods are displayed on the stands. Many of the shops are run by women who trade in the |
| + | name of their husbands. |
| + | |
| + | During the crowded bazaar hours, it is almost impossible to ride through the crowds that |
| + | swarm through the streets. Caravans on horses, mules, donkeys, and camels may block the |
| + | way for hours, and unbelievable clamor and shouts rise when two caravans collide in the |
| + | narrow market place. The native manner of getting through a crowd is to beat one's |
| + | way through, and this method is extensively used by the Chinese soldiery. Sometimes one |
| + | hears a loud outcry and sees the crowd flee in all directions, overturning fruitstands. |
| + | A moment later one sees a carriage approaching, preceded by several mounted soldiers who |
| + | lash the throng with their long whips. It is surprising that no one takes objection to |
| + | the treatment, accepting it as one of the prerogatives of official power. |
| + | |
| + | By night the bazaars are lit with oil lamps and Chinese paper lanterns, making a very |
| + | colorful picture. |
| + | |
| + | As to the social life of Khotan, suffice it to say that the town and its populace has |
| + | not changed since the time of Marco Polo. The account left by the great Venetian is |
| + | still a true reproduction of Khotanese manners and customs. |
| + | |
| + | Our sojourn in Khotan began with busy days. Visits had to be paid to the |
| + | *Tao-t'ai* or Governor, the *amban* or city magistrate, and the |
| + | *tung-ling*, officer commanding the Khotan garrison. We began our visits early in |
| + | the morning of our first day in Khotan. First we went to the |
| + | *Tao-t'ai yamen*. Professor Roerich and I rode on horseback, followed by our |
| + | Chinese interpreter and preceded by several *begs* or headmen and Chinese |
| + | soldiers, who cleared the way through the narrow streets of the Mohammedan section of |
| + | the city. As soon as we appeared, a crowd formed and followed us to the gates of the |
| + | Governor's residence. A detachment of infantry was lined up on either side of the |
| + | large entrance gate. The men, in dark gray uniforms with red shoulder straps, presented |
| + | arms. Then they rushed past us to the next gate, again lined up and again presented |
| + | arms. This ceremony was performed three times at each of the three gates of the |
| + | *yamen*. The *Tao-t'ai* met us in the inner courtyard of his |
| + | residence. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Shao-wu, the conqueror of Kashgar and the slayer of the *Ti-t'ai*, was a |
| + | diminutive man with aquiline features and polite, quiet manners. After the usual |
| + | ceremonial inquiries about health, the road, etc., he begged us to enter a large room |
| + | reserved for the occasion. Here tea was served on a small table, around which we took |
| + | our seats, the subordinate officials remaining standing all the time. |
| + | |
| + | The room was furnished in a strange and incongruous combination of Chinese and European |
| + | style. In the corner stood the usual large Chinese bed, and small Chinese black tables |
| + | were placed along the wall. The room was full of arms, the presence of which evinced the |
| + | warlike habits of the Governor. On the walls hung German Mauser pistols in wooden |
| + | holsters, and Russian Cossack swords. One of the corners of the room was occupied by |
| + | innumerable wrist watches, a unique collection gathered by the Governor from Russian |
| + | refugees, when he was the officer commanding the garrison at Uch-Turfan, a city on the |
| + | Russian Turkestan border. |
| + | |
| + | Behind each of us stood an armed guardsman of the Governor's bodyguard; each man was |
| + | armed with a sword, a pair of Mauser pistols, and heavy cartridge belts. An inquisitive |
| + | crowd of Turki headmen and secretaries pressed in the doorway. The Governor delivered a |
| + | brief speech of welcome, telling us how glad he was to honor such distinguished |
| + | foreigners. He hoped that we would make a prolonged stay in Khotan and rest after all |
| + | the hardships of the snowy route over the Karakorum. He was ready to grant us every |
| + | assistance and was himself deeply interested in the past of Khotan. He had heard about |
| + | the splendid work achieved by Sir Aurel Stein in this very region and it was his wish to |
| + | assist scholars from foreign lands in their explorations. During this brief address, |
| + | couched in such friendly and enlightened terms, I had time to examine the person of the |
| + | Governor and recall to my mind the recent events of his troubled life. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Shao-wu belonged to a great and distinguished family of Chinese Mohammedans. His |
| + | father was once the Viceroy of the Yunnan Province and lost his life in a rebellion |
| + | against the imperial throne of China. The present Governor of Khotan spent his younger |
| + | days in distant Yunnan, then was exiled to the torrid desert tracts of western Kansu and |
| + | Hsin-chiang. This family had produced several outstanding personalities, all of them |
| + | occupying important posts in Chinese Provincial administration. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Fu-hsin, the murdered Ti-t'ai of Kashgar, was one of them and the strong man of |
| + | Sining, General Ma, belongs to the same line. For many years the present Governor of |
| + | Khotan was the officer commanding the garrison of Kashgar and Uch-Turfan. It is during |
| + | this period that a deep-rooted animosity was shown between him and his elder relative, |
| + | the Ti-t'ai of Kashgar. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Ti-t'ai was a characteristic figure in the Chinese administration of the New |
| + | Dominion. He was a ruthless despot, who knew no mercy for either Chinese or native |
| + | Turki. He built himself a huge palace in the Chinese town or Han-ch'eng of Kashgar, |
| + | and had several summer houses in its vicinity. He constructed bridges and roads and |
| + | planted trees along them. A native daring to hit a tree with his carriage would have the |
| + | fingers of both hands cut off. The Ti-t'ai owned large enterprises outside the city, |
| + | was interested in oil, and maintained a large jade factory for which he requisitioned |
| + | the best artisans from Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | He had a pitiless way of removing his competitors in commercial enterprises. The |
| + | unfortunate men were summoned to the Governor's palace, and there were put to death |
| + | or had their hands cut off. Now many of these unfortunate wretches are dead, but some |
| + | are still begging in the bazaars of Kashgar, evidence of a cruel despot. |
| + | |
| + | The Ti-t'ai was famous for his harem of some fifty wives. Any pretty peasant girl |
| + | was in constant danger of being snatched away from her family and taken to the palace of |
| + | the Governor. When tired of his wives, he used to present them to his friends and |
| + | officers who had distinguished themselves in service. He was known for his lavish |
| + | entertainments and for a special brand of strong Chinese brandy, which he served at his |
| + | dinner parties. |
| + | |
| + | For several years before his fall in 1924, he cherished hopes of becoming the |
| + | independent ruler of Kashgaria and his relations with Yang Tseng-hsin, Governor-General |
| + | of the Hsin-chiang Province, were very strained. |
| + | |
| + | In 1924 the war clouds began to gather. It was rumored that the Ti-t'ai was planning |
| + | a rebellion against the Governor-General of the Province and the Provincial Government |
| + | realized the necessity of putting a stop to the dangerous activities of the Kashgar war |
| + | lord. A large force of some 18,000 cavalry and infantry was mustered in Urumchi and the |
| + | command was intrusted to Erh Tao-yin of Aksu, one of the ablest regional governors of |
| + | Hsin-chiang. The force started on its march to Kashgar in February, 1924. One should |
| + | not, however, think that all the 18,000 men were actually in the field. This large |
| + | number of troops no doubt existed only on paper and the force that arrived in Kashgar |
| + | amounted to only about five hundred men. In Hsin-chiang the authorities have a curious |
| + | way of counting their troops. They are not counted by sabers or bayonets, but by their |
| + | caps—not so many sabers or bayonets, but so many caps. Many of the regiment commanders |
| + | have their soldiers only on paper. They have no soldiers, but keep caps for them and the |
| + | caps are counted in official reports. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Shao-wu, who was the officer commanding the garrison in Uch-Turfan, petitioned the |
| + | Governor-General to be permitted to participate in the war expedition. In a spectacular |
| + | dash, he covered the long stretch from Uch-Turfan to Urumchi, the capital of the |
| + | Province, in seven days. His request was granted and he hurried back to take command of |
| + | the vanguard of the expeditionary forces. By detour routes in the hills, the vanguard |
| + | under Ma Shao-wu approached the Chinese city of Kashgar on June 1, 1924, and swept |
| + | through it. The soldiers of the Ti-t'ai were unprepared for an attack and offered |
| + | but little resistance. The Han-ch'eng was soon occupied by the invaders, who stormed |
| + | the palace of the Governor. The Ti-t'ai's son, who occupied the post of |
| + | Hsieh-t'ai, fought valiantly and fell dead in the courtyard of his citadel. |
| + | |
| + | His father, the aged Ti-t'ai, is said to have offered firm resistance but was |
| + | eventually overpowered and arrested in one of his private rooms. During the fighting his |
| + | right arm was shot through by a bullet. The prisoner was led outside the main gate of |
| + | the citadel, and there crucified on a wooden cross. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Shao-wu personally commanded the firing squad. Eyewitnesses tell that before the |
| + | execution the victorious Ma Shao-wu approached the crucified Ti-t'ai and shouted to |
| + | him: "Do you recognize me, Ma Fu-hsin?" "Ma Shao-wu," groaned the |
| + | wounded Ti-t'ai. After this very brief dialogue, Ma Shao-wu fired his pistol at the |
| + | Ti-t'ai, and the blood from the wound is said to have spurted on his coat—a bad |
| + | sign, according to the Chinese. In the excitement the soldiers of the firing squad shot |
| + | at the Ti-t'ai without previous orders and almost killed Ma Shao-wu, who stood |
| + | between them and the wounded man. He had a narrow escape. |
| + | |
| + | For several days the corpse was exposed to the angry populace who came in thousands to |
| + | avenge themselves. They spat in the face of the dead man, tore his beard, and threw |
| + | refuse and stones. After this the body disappeared and its fate is unknown. |
| + | |
| + | Ma Shao-wu remained master of the city, and foreign residents say that he acquitted |
| + | himself well of the task and by a series of stern measures restored order and prevented |
| + | looting. It was apparently a coveted desire of Ma Shao-wu to remain in Kashgar in place |
| + | of the slain Ti-t'ai, but the Governor-General of the Province was well aware of the |
| + | danger presented by the successful officer and resolved to appoint him to a more remote |
| + | section. A separate governorship was accordingly created in Khotan, and Ma Shao-wu was |
| + | appointed Tao-yin of the new district, which stretched from Karghalik to distant |
| + | Tun-huang on the Kansu border. |
| + | |
| + | Erh Tao-yin and his corps of 18,000 men never reached Kashgar and great hostility is |
| + | said to exist between him and Ma Shao-wu. |
| + | |
| + | During our stay in Khotan, it was commonly said that Ma Shao-wu had received orders from |
| + | the Governor-General to send back his troops to Urumchi, but that the newly appointed |
| + | Governor of Khotan disregarded the Governor-General's orders and kept the troops in |
| + | Khotan. This explained the presence of the great number of troops there. |
| + | |
| + | Such was the great deed of Ma Shao-wu, for which he became famous throughout the vast |
| + | Province. It was a family feud of long standing and the last act of the drama is still |
| + | to be enacted. All during our stay in Khotan, the Tao-t'ai was apprehensive of an |
| + | advance by General Ma of Sining to avenge the death of his cousin. Troops were said to |
| + | have been concentrated at Tun-huang and rumors were whispered that General Ma was |
| + | negotiating with the Provincial Government at Lan-chou for a general advance on |
| + | Hsin-chiang. |
| + | |
| + | Such was the background of Ma Shao-wu when we first met him in Khotan. A man of |
| + | considerable ability and personal courage, but an intriguer and revengeful, he found |
| + | himself relegated to a distant province separated from the other inhabited places of |
| + | Hsin-chiang by vast tracts of desert. |
| + | |
| + | Our first meeting with the man was very friendly and we had all the prospects of a |
| + | successful stay in Khotan. We took leave of the Governor and proceeded to the city |
| + | magistrate—a typical Chinese official of the interior of China. A faithful instrument of |
| + | the Governor, he echoed the same readiness to assist us. The *tung-ling* or |
| + | officer commanding the garrison at Khotan, whom we visited next, was a young man of |
| + | pleasant manners and during our subsequent troubles occupied a neutral position. |
| + | Everywhere we were met with the same ceremonies and guards of honor. |
| + | |
| + | After a strenuous morning we returned to our camp. In the afternoon we received the |
| + | visit of Ma Tao-t'ai, who was followed by the *chih-shih* or magistrate and |
| + | the *tung-ling*. The Governor arrived in a covered carriage painted green on the |
| + | outside and lined with violet velvet, drawn by three horses. The *cortège* was |
| + | followed by forty cavalrymen of the Governor's bodyguard on raven black horses. The |
| + | bodyguard of forty men is said to be maintained by the Tao-t'ai at his own expense. |
| + | All of the men were heavily armed and presented the pick of Chinese troops in |
| + | Hsin-chiang. The Governor once more assured us of his good will and urged us to make |
| + | ourselves comfortable in Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | It was impossible to stay in the small garden of Badruddin Khan with our big caravan, |
| + | and we therefore decided to find a suitable house with plenty of ground in which to |
| + | establish our headquarters. In our search we encountered the first obstacle to be set in |
| + | our way by the local authorities. We were fortunate in finding a beautifully situated |
| + | summer house belonging to the late Afghan *aqsaqal* of Khotan, an ideal place for |
| + | our headquarters, with extensive grounds, situated three miles from the city itself. We |
| + | at once decided to rent the house and there establish the expedition headquarters. It |
| + | was Persian in style and had stood empty since the death of its owner, as his widow |
| + | lived in her town house. We made known our decision to a native interpreter, Kerim Beg, |
| + | who was attached to our camp by the local authorities. He seemed very displeased at our |
| + | choice, and hinted that the Governor would prefer to see us living closer to his |
| + | residence. We thought it very strange and sent our Chinese secretary, Ts'ai, to the |
| + | Governor's *yamen* to inquire. He soon came back and reported that the |
| + | Governor had assured him that he had nothing against our living in the summer house of |
| + | the former Afghan *aqsaqal* and that the *beg* had misconstrued his |
| + | orders. We accordingly instructed Kerim Beg to call on the *aqsaqal* family to |
| + | discuss terms. He refused to do so, saying that the family was a very difficult one to |
| + | deal with. |
| + | |
| + | After this conversation, several days elapsed without our being able to settle the |
| + | matter. It was during this period that we made the acquaintance of a local trader, |
| + | Khudai Berdi Bai, who became a trusted friend all through the period of our difficulties |
| + | with local authorities. The matter of renting the house seemed to take a hopeless turn |
| + | and we decided to negotiate directly with the Afghan *aqsaqal's* family. To |
| + | our great surprise, we found them very eager to rent the house. Someone was trying to |
| + | prevent us from establishing our headquarters there. Who this dark shadow was, whose |
| + | hand we found in all our difficulties in Khotan, we were unable to ascertain. We signed |
| + | an agreement, paid a month's rent, and took possession of the house and compound, to |
| + | the great consternation of Kerim Beg. |
| + | |
| + | Having established our headquarters, we began to plan our scientific and artistic |
| + | activities in Khotan and its vicinity. The ancient site of Khotan—Yotkan, where from |
| + | time to time landslides revealed miscellaneous objects and remains of old structures—had |
| + | to be explored. We also planned for a brief expedition to Mazar Imam Jafar Sadik and to |
| + | the site of the Rawak *stupa* where shifting sands had uncovered interesting new |
| + | remains. |
| + | |
| + | Our Ladakis, these wonderful hillmen, found it difficult to become accustomed to new |
| + | surroundings and we decided to let them return to their native Ladak. They departed, |
| + | well recompensed for their splendid services. We heard later on that all of them safely |
| + | reached Leh, but encountered great snowdrifts on the Sanju Pass. |
| + | |
| + | Besides his archaeological work, Professor Roerich intended to extend his artistic work, |
| + | possibly toward the Karanghu Tagh Mountains and round Khotan. We also were planning our |
| + | future route to inner China, and had to muster a new caravan of men and animals. Amid |
| + | this organizing work, clouds gathered for a storm. Our friends, of whom we had many, |
| + | both among the Chinese and native Chang-t'ou, began to warn us that the Tao-t'ai |
| + | had been troubled by some of his counselors, who seemed to be conspiring against our |
| + | expedition. Strange rumors filled the air and no one knew whence they came or who was |
| + | spreading them. |
| + | |
| + | For a time, everything was quiet. The Tao-t'ai arranged a dinner of some fifty |
| + | courses in honor of Professor Roerich, at which all the local officials were present, |
| + | and also Mr. K. Moldavak, an Armenian gentleman, who had long been living in Khotan and |
| + | was one of the closest friends of the local Governor. Mrs. Roerich could not attend the |
| + | function and the whole dinner of fifty courses was sent to her by an *aide* to |
| + | the Governor. It was a long affair, which started about three o'clock in the |
| + | afternoon and continued late into the evening. The Chinese played their usual table |
| + | games, in which the loser had to drink a glass of strong Chinese brandy after each |
| + | defeat. The Tao-t'ai entertained his guests with stories of his former exploits and |
| + | showed photos of his tame leopards, of which he was very proud. |
| + | |
| + | After dinner, some of the officials present sang Chinese ballads. Unfortunately none of |
| + | the singers were experts, and we failed to appreciate their singing. The dinner ended |
| + | late at night and we were led to the courtyard, the Governor heading the procession |
| + | which was preceded by soldiers carrying Chinese paper lanterns. Our horses stood waiting |
| + | for us at the inner gate of the *yamen*. Twenty horsemen of the Governor's |
| + | bodyguard escorted us home. Each rider carried a lantern. We rode at quick pace through |
| + | the streets of Khotan which were crowded, notwithstanding the late hour. The raven black |
| + | horses of the escort shied and overthrew several fruitstands. It was a beautiful, cool |
| + | evening and the usually hazy atmosphere of the desert gave way to a clear transparent |
| + | sky, against the background of which we could see the sharp snowy outline of the |
| + | Karanghu Tagh Mountains south of Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | For several days more our relations with the authorities continued to be outwardly |
| + | friendly, although there were signs of a growing uneasiness in the Governor and his |
| + | subordinates. |
| + | |
| + | A few days after the dinner party, the young son of the Governor became ill, and Mrs. |
| + | Roerich had to go to help them. The boy recovered and the Governor afterward mentioned |
| + | that this aid saved us from further difficulties in Khotan and on the way. |
| + | |
| + | Khotan, a city of several scores of thousands, has not even a single doctor. The nearest |
| + | European doctor lives in Yarkend. The usual practice was to send an urgent message |
| + | inviting Dr. Nyström, of the Swedish Mission in Yarkend. It took the doctor about five |
| + | days to reach Khotan, traveling day and night on a Chinese cart. |
| + | |
| + | We applied to the magistrate of the city for permission to sketch and take photos in the |
| + | city itself and its environs. Permission was refused in both cases, and we were told |
| + | that they had written for instructions to the Governor-General of the Province. We |
| + | decided to protest to the Tao-t'ai and remind him of his promise to assist the |
| + | expedition in its work. |
| + | |
| + | Meanwhile a new magistrate had arrived from Urumchi and Kashgar. Disquieting rumors were |
| + | whispered about. The new magistrate was violently opposed to foreigners, although he |
| + | boasted of his modernism. |
| + | |
| + | A few days after his arrival, the Governor with all the Chinese officials came to thank |
| + | Mrs. Roerich for her help during the illness of the Governor's son. They came |
| + | accompanied by an armed escort. From the very beginning of the conversation we felt that |
| + | the Tao-t'ai and the new magistrate had something on their minds. We invited them to |
| + | tea in my room and closed the doors so as to prevent the noisy soldiers from entering. |
| + | Ma Tao-t'ai and the magistrate seemed very uneasy and surly. They examined the room |
| + | attentively and exchanged brief remarks about our pack cases that were piled along the |
| + | walls. Suddenly the Tao-t'ai coughed three times, the door swung open and the room |
| + | was filled with soldiers, who lined up along the walls. The room assumed the appearance |
| + | of a tribunal. We were much surprised and expressed our astonishment at the conduct of |
| + | the Governor. The Tao-t'ai smiled and begged us not to pay any attention. I feel |
| + | sure that the Governor was afraid to remain alone in the room. |
| + | |
| + | The conversation continued on general topics, when suddenly the new magistrate began to |
| + | question us about our passports. We once more produced our Peking passports sent us to |
| + | India from the Chinese Wai-chiao-pu, through Mr. Cheng Lo, the Chinese Ambassador in |
| + | Peking. The attitude of the Chinese was inexplainable. They scoffingly remarked that our |
| + | passports were not valid in this Province, that the Peking Government had nothing to say |
| + | in Hsin-chiang and that Mr. Cheng Lo had no authority to issue letters of introduction. |
| + | The Chinese assumed a threatening attitude, began to gesticulate, spit on the floor, and |
| + | scoff. It was quite an unexpected change, but we decided to stand firm and pointed out |
| + | to them that they had no right to threaten the expedition and disregard our passports. |
| + | We warned them that we should at once communicate with the British Consul in Kashgar and |
| + | ask him to request the Governor-General of Hsin-chiang for permission to continue our |
| + | work unimpeded. After a very heated discussion, the Tao-t'ai and his companions rose |
| + | and departed for Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | Mr. Chang, the new magistrate, came the next day and said that a wire had been received |
| + | from the Governor-General ordering our expedition to return to India via the Sanju Pass. |
| + | This was an impossibility, for the pass was long since closed by the snow, and we at |
| + | once understood that the telegram was a fraud which originated in the *yamen* of |
| + | the Governor. |
| + | |
| + | The visit of the magistrate was enlivened by an episode which caused considerable |
| + | merriment among our servants. The magistrate had arrived in state with a considerable |
| + | escort of policemen who waited outside the house. Our Tibetan mastiff, Tumbal, as a |
| + | precaution was taken away and tied to a tree in the garden. In the midst of our |
| + | conversation, we suddenly heard a loud outcry followed by a wild trampling of feet. The |
| + | dog had broken his chain and was slowly and menacingly advancing toward the house door. |
| + | The policemen, unable to stand the sight, fled, many barricading themselves in our |
| + | bathroom. The door to the room where we were sitting was open, and we could see the dog |
| + | coming up the steps of the terrace. The magistrate, pale and confused, quickly got on |
| + | the chair on which he had been sitting and prepared to get on the table where tea was |
| + | served. It took us some time to explain to the frightened man that the dog was harmless |
| + | in our presence. |
| + | |
| + | After this visit of the magistrate, we sent a letter to Major Gillan, the British Consul |
| + | in Kashgar, asking him to assist the expedition. The letter was sent to the Khotan post |
| + | office but was returned with a note that the Tao-t'ai had given orders to seize all |
| + | our correspondence with the British Consul in Kashgar. Our letters, containing telegrams |
| + | for New York, Paris, and Peking, were similarly returned. The situation was a very grave |
| + | one, and we were fully aware that it was the beginning of a long period of persecution, |
| + | endless negotiations, and insult. We were cut off from the outside world, and had to |
| + | find means to send out messages with information of our position. |
| + | |
| + | Several traders volunteered to carry our letters to the consulate at Kashgar. Besides |
| + | this, two friendly Kalmucks offered their services. They devised a very ingenious plan, |
| + | based on their thorough acquaintance with local official carelessness. Their plan |
| + | consisted in waiting patiently with the letter in the street outside the post office. At |
| + | the very last moment, when the postal messenger would be leading out his horse and |
| + | fixing the saddlebags, one of the Kalmucks would step out and hand our letter addressed |
| + | in Turki and Chinese to the British Consul. The Chinese postal official dispatching the |
| + | mail, would angrily ejaculate, "Why are you always late?" and without looking |
| + | at the address would throw the letter into one of the saddlebags. This stratagem |
| + | invariably worked and our letters reached their destination. Evidently at Kashgar our |
| + | letters were promptly delivered. It took us sixteen days to get an answer, which usually |
| + | came through a private channel. |
| + | |
| + | On December 29, 1925, the new magistrate and several minor military officers, |
| + | representing the Tao-t'ai, came to search our baggage and house. We were said to |
| + | possess a huge amount of ammunition and some kind of a "shooting wheel" with |
| + | which we were able to annihilate the whole of the Khotan garrison and the population in |
| + | less than ten minutes! Our square wooden boxes of preserves from the Cockburn Agency in |
| + | Kashmir gave rise to the suspicion that we carried large supplies of ammunition with us. |
| + | Our firearms, consisting of two rifles, one double-barreled gun and three revolvers, and |
| + | one case of ammunition, were sealed and taken away. Professor Roerich, in his book, |
| + | *Altai-Himalaya*, has given a detailed description of the ridiculous and |
| + | fruitless search. |
| + | |
| + | We decided to leave Khotan at once and go to Kashgar in order to negotiate by wire with |
| + | the Governor-General for permission to proceed with our work. We also desired the return |
| + | of our firearms, without which we could not attempt to cross the brigand-infested |
| + | regions of the interior of China. The authorities gave their silent assent and we hired |
| + | a camel caravan to carry our baggage to Kashgar. Once more the courtyard of the house |
| + | and garden were filled with men and kneeling camels—a welcome sight to every explorer. |
| + | |
| + | On January 1 everything was ready for the start, when suddenly an official from the |
| + | Tao-t'ai arrived and coolly informed us, "The Tao-t'ai orders you to go to |
| + | Tun-huang in Kansu and not through Kashgar." We tried to argue, pointing out the |
| + | fact that our only firearms had been seized, that money orders were waiting for us at |
| + | the Chinese post office in Kashgar, that we were expecting answers to our cables. All |
| + | our words were of no avail, the man only repeated one and the same sentence, "Ma |
| + | Ta-jen changed his mind, and orders your expedition to proceed through the desert to |
| + | Tun-huang." He added, however, that we should go and speak to the Tao-t'ai |
| + | personally. And so we went. A long and tedious conference followed, during which we |
| + | persistently tried to obtain a written statement explaining the Tao-t'ai's |
| + | actions. We sat at a small table facing the Tao-t'ai and could see his soldiers |
| + | behind him making grimaces and pointing their fingers at the Tao-t'ai's head. |
| + | |
| + | The Tao-t'ai was adamant in his decision to keep us in Khotan. It is difficult to |
| + | say what had influenced his change of attitude. Some said that he was possessed by the |
| + | spirit of the murdered Ti-t'ai of Kashgar and no longer could control himself. |
| + | Others repeated the story that someone had sowed mistrust in the Tao-t'ai's |
| + | mind. Whatever it might be, it was clear that the situation was a very serious one and |
| + | that we had to find a solution. |
| + | |
| + | We returned to our headquarters and drafted a letter to the Consul in Kashgar, informing |
| + | him of the situation and requesting him to communicate with the Governor-General in |
| + | Urumchi. From now on, we received frequent visits from Mr. Chang, magistrate of Khotan. |
| + | Each day he had another astounding telegram to produce, ordering our immediate arrest |
| + | and deportation. It so happened that every time he came we were able to confront him |
| + | with a letter from Major Gillan or a telegram from America. Friends were acting to help |
| + | us leave Khotan. |
| + | |
| + | Our days were spent either working at the headquarters or negotiating with local |
| + | authorities. These negotiations occupied most of the time, for each visit of the |
| + | Governor or the magistrate meant five or six hours of continuous conversation. |
| + | |
| + | On January 20 we received a welcome letter from Major Gillan, notifying us that |
| + | following his efforts the Governor-General had sent immediate orders for our release |
| + | from Khotan. This was a piece of welcome news and all in the expedition headquarters |
| + | rejoiced at the prospect of a march to Kashgar. |
| + | |
| + | On the evening of the same day, we received the visit of our friend Khudai Berdi Bai, |
| + | who brought the news that a letter had been received from Urumchi with permission to |
| + | travel to Kashgar. This was an unprecedented case—that an order from the |
| + | Governor-General should be announced through a private person. The Governor "lost |
| + | face" and could not deliver the order personally or through the magistrate. The |
| + | authorities kept silent. Only the commander of the garrison and the old |
| + | *amban* sent us their visiting cards with good wishes for our trip to Kashgar. A |
| + | military officer with the rank of *shao-wei* or lieutenant came and inquired |
| + | about the day of our departure. He was ordered to furnish a guard of mounted soldiers to |
| + | accompany us to Yarkend. The Chinese seemed uneasy, and somehow conscious of the wrong |
| + | committed toward the expedition. The actions of the local Khotan authorities had almost |
| + | completely prevented us from carrying out our plans. |
| + | |
| + | We hurried with our preparations. Most of the baggage had been packed long ago. We now |
| + | only needed to engage a trustworthy caravan-*bashi*. Khudai Berdi Bai recommended |
| + | us to Temur Bai, a wealthy caravaneer owning many horse caravans transporting goods |
| + | between Khotan and Leh. Temur Bai undertook to furnish us with seventy-four pack horses |
| + | for six Chinese dollars each, with the understanding that we should reach Kashgar on the |
| + | fourteenth day. Besides pack animals we were obliged to hire two Chinese carriages or |
| + | *ma-fa* at twenty-five dollars for the journey. In one of the carriages our |
| + | Chinese interpreter Ts'ai had to travel, together with a case of firearms, which |
| + | were returned to us sealed on the eve of our departure. Poor Ts'ai had taken to |
| + | opium smoking, no doubt depressed by the insulting attitude of the local officials. The |
| + | aged man was full of his old-time dignity and complained bitterly against the revolting |
| + | methods of the local administration. As a result of the opium, he was so weak that he |
| + | could not keep himself in the saddle and had to travel in the carriage. He was careful |
| + | to conceal his habit and smoked only in the dark of the night. |
| + | |
| + | In the second carriage our Tibetan mastiff, Tumbal, traveled in charge of a servant. |
| + | |
| + | The three months of detention came to an end and we were looking forward to new regions. |
| + | Our courtyard was filled with friendly Chang-t'ou who came to say goodbye to the |
| + | expedition. During our three months' detention we had made many trusted friends; it |
| + | is a pleasure to express here our gratitude to all who assisted the expedition during |
| + | the difficult winter days in Khotan. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/5.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,59 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 5 |
| + | |
| + | In the early morning of January 28, 1926, our courtyard and garden were crowded with |
| + | pack horses and caravan men in heavy sheepskins and dark red *charuqs*—a scene |
| + | familiar to anyone who has traveled in the caravan region of Asia. The bustle was great |
| + | and it took us five hours to start the baggage caravan marching. The tents and the rest |
| + | of the camp equipment had to go in advance, and for this purpose the best horses were |
| + | given to the camp detachment. This detachment had to leave camp last, and arrive at the |
| + | new camp first. The caravan men, mostly Turki from Khotan, were sadly lacking in |
| + | initiative and performed their tasks with surprising carelessness. |
| + | |
| + | Most of the pack horses were big animals from Yarkend, capable of carrying about two |
| + | hundred pound loads. Their general condition was good and we could hope to arrive in |
| + | Kashgar on time. The Turkestan pack saddle is much superior to the wooden pack saddles |
| + | of Ladak and Tibet. It consists of two thick saddle cloths, on which is fixed the saddle |
| + | cushion—U-shaped and made of sheepskin or cloth well stuffed with straw. The load is |
| + | fixed to the saddle by ropes, made of camel's or sheep's wool. Travelers are |
| + | warned not to use hemp ropes of Chinese or European make, for they are apt to cause |
| + | sores. Ropes made of camel's wool are very good; those made out of sheep's wool |
| + | are much inferior. |
| + | |
| + | Several mounted soldiers in charge of an aged *shao-wei* or lieutenant were |
| + | ordered to escort us as far as Yarkend, the next garrisoned oasis along the southern |
| + | trade route. They all came and lined up in front of the house, the lieutenant holding |
| + | the red visiting card of his superior officer in his raised hand. All the men were over |
| + | fifty, and were dressed in voluminous gray coats and fur caps with large earflaps which, |
| + | if necessary, could be buttoned in front of the face. Their arms consisted of old |
| + | Mausers, and the officer had an old Chinese sword. We were much surprised at the age of |
| + | these warriors, and inquired whether they intended to retire from service. The reply was |
| + | that they had recently been promoted to the cavalry for gallant service! In Hsin-chiang |
| + | a young soldier has to serve in infantry units, and only after he has passed an age |
| + | limit or distinguished himself in service is he promoted to the grade of a mounted |
| + | soldier or *ma-p'ing*. In Hsin-chiang, as in many other parts of China, a |
| + | horse is only a means of transportation; a Chinese trooper is taught to sit on a horse, |
| + | but never to ride it. A *beg* from Karakash and two *daroghas* were also |
| + | delegated to attend to our needs on the journey. They were directed to accompany us to |
| + | Guma Bazaar, the nearest administrative center on the Khotan-Yarkend route. |
| + | |
| + | We started only about noon, and rapidly rode through the Mohammedan and Chinese sections |
| + | of Khotan. It was a bazaar day and the streets were thronged with a multicolored crowd |
| + | of villagers. Our first stage was Zawa. The baggage caravan arrived late at night and we |
| + | were obliged to spend several hours waiting for it in the garden of the official |
| + | resthouse. The night was cool and we warmed ourselves at a huge camp fire made by the |
| + | local villagers. |
| + | |
| + | Before starting from Khotan, our Chinese interpreter, Ts'ai ssu-yeh, had made a |
| + | yellow flag marked with our name abbreviated to "Lo," stating the official |
| + | designation of the expedition. This flag was intrusted to a *darogha*, who |
| + | galloped ahead of us and planted the flag on the spot selected for our camp. |
| + | |
| + | In Zawa we found the flag planted on the roof of the resthouse. Ts'ai ssu-yeh was |
| + | very wise to prepare this flag, for it saved us from many troubles with petty officials, |
| + | who were always found to respect it even more than our Peking passports. |
| + | |
| + | In the evening we discovered that our soldiers and some of our Chinese servants were |
| + | confirmed opium smokers. In the morning they were late getting up and considerably |
| + | handicapped the work about the camp. An opium smoker is a great calamity in an |
| + | expedition camp and we decided to avail ourselves of the next opportunity to get rid of |
| + | them. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/6.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,7 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 6 |
| + | |
| + | The great northern highway of Hsin-chiang has been frequently described by travelers. In |
| + | two easy stages we reached Faizabad—a small town with a Chinese magistrate and a small |
| + | garrison of troops. The road was monotonous—everywhere sand tracts covered by salt |
| + | crust, sand dunes, and jungle, groves of willows and dusty mud-built hamlets. Faizabad |
| + | is the last settlement of the Kashgar Oasis. Beyond it stretch sandy tracts. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/7.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,256 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 7 |
| + | |
| + | The capital of Hsin-chiang greeted us with a spell of cold days, and icy winds blew |
| + | across the surrounding plain. Our quarters were quite insufficient to accommodate all |
| + | our men, baggage and horses. We decided therefore to search for new quarters—a difficult |
| + | and almost hopeless task in crowded Urumchi. |
| + | |
| + | Our first day was spent in official visits. In order to acquaint ourselves with the |
| + | local situation, we first paid a visit to Mr. Cavalieri, the Italian Postmaster-General |
| + | of Hsin-chiang. The road to his comfortable house, situated in the vicinity of the |
| + | Governor-General's residence, led through the Russian Concession and the Mohammedan |
| + | section of Urumchi. The snow had melted and the streets were full of indescribable black |
| + | mud that stuck to the horses' hoofs and the carriage wheels. A motley crowd thronged |
| + | the bazaars and shops of the city. |
| + | |
| + | The Chinese were prominent everywhere, as were also their Mohammedan countrymen, the |
| + | Tungans. Urumchi has a large colony of Tungans, and until lately they have played an |
| + | important rôle at the Governor's palace. In connection with the warlike intentions |
| + | of General Ma, of Sining, the Tungans of Hsin-chiang were suspected of conspiracy and |
| + | many had to flee from the capital in order to escape from the wrath of Governor Yang. |
| + | |
| + | The Kirghiz tribesmen from neighboring districts, riding through the streets in large |
| + | numbers, were prominent among the crowds that filled the streets. All of them wore |
| + | peculiar helmet-shaped fur caps and heavy sheepskins, with leather boots. The numerous |
| + | tea houses and restaurants were crowded with soldiers, who were spending their last days |
| + | in the capital gambling and drinking. The Kalmucks were prominent among the fighting men |
| + | and distinguished themselves from the rest of the crowd by their proper military bearing |
| + | and the look of self-reliance always present in a body of disciplined men. |
| + | |
| + | The walled Chinese town with endless rows of shops displaying red-paper advertisements, |
| + | and crowds of black-robed Chinese, was typical. The shops were well supplied with all |
| + | sorts of Chinese and even European goods brought to Urumchi by camel caravans over the |
| + | long six months' route across the Mongolian Gobi. Prominent among the Chinese shops |
| + | were the Chinese undertakers' establishments, with huge wooden coffins, painted red, |
| + | that lined the street. Every respectable Chinese has to be buried in his native |
| + | province, and these huge sarcophagi serve to transport corpses of deceased merchants and |
| + | other members of the Chinese colony to their native places in distant China. |
| + | |
| + | We found in Mr. Cavalieri a sympathetic man, known to have assisted many American and |
| + | European travelers. He had heard about our troubles in Khotan and advised us to settle |
| + | matters personally with the Governor-General in order to eliminate the possibility of |
| + | further troubles on our route. We told him of the difficulties we encountered in |
| + | continuing our scientific and artistic work and that the local authorities made no |
| + | distinction between a painting and a map. Mr. Cavalieri told us of an old friend of |
| + | mine, Mr. Allen Priest, who had stayed with him for several weeks and had left |
| + | Hsin-chiang for Siberia and China. Mr. Cavalieri strongly advised us to continue our |
| + | route to Peking by way of Chuguchak and Siberia. According to him this was the only safe |
| + | route for foreigners. The Kansu border was in a state of ferment and the route to Kansu |
| + | was rendered dangerous by numerous bands of brigands and deserters, who had fled from |
| + | the troops stationed along the route. |
| + | |
| + | Mr. Cavalieri sent word to Chu Ta-hen, the private secretary to the Governor-General, |
| + | requesting him to come at once, which he did with surprising promptitude. Mr. Chu was a |
| + | young man of pleasant manners, possessing a fluent knowledge of Russian and some |
| + | English. |
| + | |
| + | We at once gained in him a trusted friend, who always tried his best to assist us during |
| + | our stay in Urumchi and always volunteered to accompany us on our official visits and |
| + | negotiations. We related to him in detail our experiences in Khotan and Karashahr. He |
| + | waved his hands and said that it would be difficult to induce the Governor-General to |
| + | start an inquiry. Very probably the local Governors had exceeded their powers, but this |
| + | was a common grievance in Hsin-chiang administration. Mr. Chu told us that the |
| + | Governor-General was very much worried about our unfortunate experiences in his Province |
| + | and was anxious to meet us personally. |
| + | |
| + | After our visit to Mr. Cavalieri, accompanied by Chu Ta-hen, we went to pay a call on |
| + | the Governor-General and Fan Yao-han, the High Commissioner of Foreign Affairs in the |
| + | Provincial Government of Hsin-chiang. |
| + | |
| + | The Governor's residence consisted of several well-isolated buildings and inclosed |
| + | courtyards. The gates were carefully guarded by patrols of heavily armed men. At one of |
| + | the gates we noticed a heap of soldiers' caps ready for distribution to recruits. In |
| + | another courtyard we found half a company of infantry, lined up with numerous banners |
| + | and several buglers. The detachment was about to march to Hsin-hsin-hsia. The |
| + | Governor's *yamen* seemed to us to be in a very dilapidated condition. The |
| + | glass in many of the windows on the ground floor was broken and dirty paper and rags had |
| + | been pasted on the window frames. Numerous retainers roamed about the courtyards and |
| + | villainous bodyguards, armed with Mauser pistols and swords, were on duty at the |
| + | entrance to the *yamen*. |
| + | |
| + | We were received by the Governor-General in his private study—a small room containing a |
| + | writing desk and filled with Chinese books in blue cloth bindings. Yang Tseng-hsin, the |
| + | Governor-General of Hsin-chiang, rose to greet us and offered us chairs at his desk. He |
| + | was a man of about sixty-five, robust and well-built, with a long gray beard. He was |
| + | dressed in a very plain gray coat, with an ordinary black skullcap on his head. He spoke |
| + | slowly and in a low tone, but then suddenly would raise his voice and thunder, in order |
| + | to stress the importance of his statement. For over fifteen years he had held sway over |
| + | the vast dominion. Appointed to his post after the Chinese Revolution of 1911 he |
| + | succeeded in retaining his post for an unusually long period. His methods of government |
| + | were harsh and determined, and his enemies did not dare to oppose his rule openly. In |
| + | 1916 during the dangerous Kirghiz uprising on the Kashgar frontier, he showed himself a |
| + | strong ruler, determined to crush his enemies. During the difficult period of 1919-23, |
| + | when Russian Red and White detachments crossed the frontier of Hsin-chiang and carried |
| + | war into Chinese Turkestan, he again succeeded in retaining his position and eliminating |
| + | the danger. The dominant idea of his policy was to isolate Hsin-chiang from any outside |
| + | influence, whether Chinese or European. He outwardly maintained friendly and correct |
| + | relations with the Peking Government and used to send tribute regularly, but he did not |
| + | tolerate any interference on the part of the central government in the local affairs of |
| + | the Province. |
| + | |
| + | The frontiers of Hsin-chiang were practically closed and any foreigners, even Chinese |
| + | from China proper, were viewed with great suspicion and often arrested and deported. |
| + | Especially abhorrent to him was the class of Chinese who had received education at |
| + | foreign universities and was now trying to propagate modern ideas in China. A man of |
| + | old-time ideas, he was unable to visualize a modern China, built up on modern lines. He |
| + | considered the Province as his private estate and his administration was reactionary, |
| + | without even the acceptable qualities of the old imperial system. During his rule |
| + | Hsin-chiang enjoyed what might be called a superficial economic prosperity, but in |
| + | reality this policy of complete isolation was slowly strangling the Province, as was |
| + | already apparent in its organism. Factories and large commercial enterprises were |
| + | strictly forbidden, for they necessitated the employment of large bodies of workmen, who |
| + | might form the nucleus of a workers' class in Hsin-chiang and thus endanger the |
| + | social structure of the Province. In his determination to keep Hsin-chiang isolated, the |
| + | Governor-General refused permission to construct better roads and the use of motor |
| + | traffic and airplanes for quick communication with the outside world. |
| + | |
| + | The wireless stations at Urumchi and Kashgar, and the telegraph line connecting |
| + | Hsin-chiang with China, were under strict censorship by the Governor-General, and |
| + | private individuals were seldom permitted to use the wireless. Several years ago the |
| + | Russo-Asiatic Bank started a motor service, both passenger and freight, between China |
| + | and Hsin-chiang. The Chinese authorities in China expressed their approval of the new |
| + | venture and several cars were sent across Mongolia to find a suitable route over the |
| + | Gobi Desert. The Governor-General of Hsin-chiang was quick to veto this new venture, and |
| + | one Packard car which succeeded in getting through was refused permission to travel in |
| + | Hsin-chiang. The car was subsequently sold by the bank to Mr. Cavalieri, who succeeded |
| + | in obtaining permission to drive it in the vicinity of Urumchi. |
| + | |
| + | Newspapers and other printing establishments were forbidden throughout the Province and |
| + | foreign magazines, papers, and correspondence were carefully censored before delivery. |
| + | In most cases the newspapers and magazines were confiscated. Only these drastic measures |
| + | insured the apparently peaceful condition of the Province. |
| + | |
| + | Governor Yang was famous for his ruthlessness with his enemies. There were countless |
| + | stories of dinner parties ending in bloodshed. For many years past a latent discontent |
| + | had been known to exist in the masses of the people and official circles. In 1924 |
| + | General Ma, *Ti-t'ai* of Kashgar, was captured and executed by orders of the |
| + | Governor-General. The murdered *Ti-t'ai* was a cousin of the famous |
| + | Ma-ch'i, Frontier Commissioner and Governor of Sining who since 1915 had held sway |
| + | on the Sino-Tibetan border. During our stay in Urumchi, General Ma was said to be |
| + | preparing an advance on Hsin-chiang. Governor Yang had to mobilize his troops and form a |
| + | defense line along the Hsin-chiang-Kansu border. It is difficult to say how thoroughly |
| + | these war preparations were carried out. Arrivals from Kansu told us that Hsin-hsin-hsia |
| + | and the troops stationed there were in a terrible plight, destitute of almost |
| + | everything, and that soldiers were deserting in large numbers, infesting the neighboring |
| + | mountains, and causing panic among the population. |
| + | |
| + | Besides being a statesman, Governor Yang was said to be a man of great literary |
| + | attainment and the author of memoirs and numerous articles on administration, embodied |
| + | in three large volumes, copies of which were recently sent to the British Museum. |
| + | |
| + | Two years after our departure, the "reign" of Yang Tseng-hsin ended in a |
| + | catastrophe on July 7, 1928, when the aged Governor-General was shot dead by the |
| + | bodyguard of Fan Yao-han, the High Commissioner for Foreign Affairs. According to |
| + | reports current in China, the Governor-General was presiding at a distribution of annual |
| + | prizes in the local School of Administration, when the bodyguard of Fan Yao-han shot and |
| + | killed him. This action of Fan Yao-han was probably the result of a long development. |
| + | |
| + | An order from Peking appointed Fan Governor-General of Hsin-chiang. But fate was against |
| + | him. When he reached the Governor's palace to assume his post, he was unexpectedly |
| + | seized by the private secretary of the late Governor-General and thrown into prison. His |
| + | daughter was also imprisoned and most of his trusted followers were executed. A few days |
| + | afterward Fan Yao-han and his daughter were condemned to the *ling-chi*, a |
| + | torture consisting of being cut alive into 10,000 pieces. Fan was made to witness the |
| + | horrible death of his daughter. The reigns of government were taken by a temporary |
| + | council, until the Nationalist Government at Nanking had appointed an official to the |
| + | vacant post of Governor-General of Hsin-chiang. |
| + | |
| + | We had a long interview with the Governor-General, who placed all the blame for our |
| + | detention on the local officials at Khotan. According to him Ma Shao-wu, the |
| + | *Tao-yin* of Khotan, was completely out of control, and the Governor-General |
| + | vividly compared Khotan to a robbers' nest. The Karashahr Torguts were famous |
| + | bandits, and it was no wonder we had trouble with them. We suggested that the magistrate |
| + | in Karashahr was the ultimate cause of all our trouble in that city and Governor Yang |
| + | appeared greatly surprised and shook his head, expressing his deep condemnation. His |
| + | Excellency assured us that here in Urumchi we were free to do anything we liked. |
| + | |
| + | We requested the Governor to instruct his officials to return our firearms to us, and |
| + | His Excellency once more exclaimed: "What a shame! Of course you will have your |
| + | arms returned to you! You foreigners are great men and have to excuse us small |
| + | men." We spoke to him about our future plans, but he was very doubtful whether we |
| + | should be able to continue our journey to Kansu. According to him the only way to reach |
| + | Peking was to travel by way of Siberia. It seemed as if we should be forced once more to |
| + | change our route. |
| + | |
| + | After this instructive interview with the Governor-General we proceeded to Fan Yao-han, |
| + | the High Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, who was temporarily discharging the duties of |
| + | a *Tao-yin*. Fan studied several years at a Japanese university and was said to |
| + | be a good diplomat. He promised us every assistance but voiced the same doubt regarding |
| + | our proposed journey to Kansu. According to him it would be better for us to negotiate |
| + | for permission to travel through Siberia. |
| + | |
| + | In the afternoon of the same day, Professor Roerich applied for a transit visa through |
| + | Siberia and was told that it would take about two weeks to receive an answer. We had to |
| + | remain in Urumchi for a longer period than we expected. Mr. Feldmann, director of the |
| + | Russo-Asiatic Bank, kindly offered us a house and a large courtyard belonging to the |
| + | bank, which we gladly accepted. |
| + | |
| + | From now on our days passed in excursions about the capital and frequent meetings with |
| + | local officials. The conditions on the Kansu border were getting worse and we saw |
| + | detachments of troops marching through the streets of the capital daily. A detachment |
| + | was usually preceded by a band of musicians and several standard bearers carrying huge |
| + | red, yellow, and multicolored flags. The soldiers were a motley collection of ruffians |
| + | in uniform. Often one would see small boys of twelve carrying three rifles and marching |
| + | with the troops. This meant that the owners of the rifles had captured the boys and |
| + | intrusted their rifles to them, while they themselves enjoyed a smoke in a nearby |
| + | restaurant. |
| + | |
| + | According to the law of Hsin-chiang a man with a small private property was exempt from |
| + | military service. As the result of this rule, the Provincial army consisted of vagabonds |
| + | and beggars who had been collected by order of the Governor-General. The usual method of |
| + | procuring the required number of fighters was to make a raid on all the night clubs and |
| + | gambling houses in the city and its vicinity. The men found in them were at once |
| + | arrested and sent to the military barracks. The soldiers' monthly pay in Hsin-chiang |
| + | amounted to five *lans* or about three Mexican dollars. Very often the men were |
| + | paid in opium. The troops were equipped with firearms of such variety that it was almost |
| + | impossible to supply them with ammunition. |
| + | |
| + | On April 20 we had a sudden and violent snowstorm that lasted for three days. The |
| + | temperature dropped considerably and the surrounding mountains were covered with snow. |
| + | |
| + | On April 25 Fan Yao-han invited the foreign colony of Urumchi to a banquet given at the |
| + | Governor-General's summer palace. This palace was interesting for a huge cast-iron |
| + | monument erected by the Governor-General in honor of himself. The expenses of making and |
| + | transporting the huge statue from China to Urumchi were paid by the "grateful" |
| + | population of the city. |
| + | |
| + | On May 5 we were told by Fan Yao-han that the only route open for us was by way of |
| + | Siberia. We decided to go to Lake Zaisan and then to Omsk by boat. |
| + | |
| + | On May 10 the city was decorated with flags and the soldiers stopped their daily drill. |
| + | News had been received that General Ma of Sining had been routed by the Tibetans. A few |
| + | months ago the Tungan cavalry of General Ma had sacked the rich and venerated monastery |
| + | of Labrang and Jam-yang she-pa ('Jam-dbyangs bshed-pa), the Incarnate Lama and abbot |
| + | of the monastery had to flee to Kham or eastern Tibet. The lama sent out a letter |
| + | addressed to all the tribal chieftains along the Sino-Tibetan border, with a demand to |
| + | defend the monastery from destruction by the Tungan soldiers. The tribes mobilized two |
| + | men from each nomad encampment, and soon a formidable force of nomad cavalry raided the |
| + | outposts of the Tungan troops. Ma-ch'i's soldiers were forced to retreat and |
| + | Tibetan raiding parties appeared in the vicinity of Tankar and Sining. General Ma was in |
| + | a critical position and had to send all his available troops against the advancing |
| + | Tibetans. The danger of the Kansu border was relieved a little. |
| + | |
| + | On May 11 at luncheon at the Russo-Asiatic Bank, we met Dr. W. Filchner, the well-known |
| + | German explorer and author of several books on northeastern Tibet and China. He told us |
| + | of his difficulties with local authorities who refused to recognize the scientific aim |
| + | of his expedition to fill in some of the existing gaps in the magnetic surveys of |
| + | central Asia. |
| + | |
| + | On May 13 the Governor-General arranged a luncheon in our honor. Among those present |
| + | were Dr. Filchner, Mr. Cavalieri, Rev. Mr. Veldman, a Catholic missionary, and several |
| + | Chinese officials from the Kulja border. We were told by the Governor-General that our |
| + | passport for Peking would be ready on the following day and that he wished us a happy |
| + | journey to Peking. This promised document assumed the shape of a six-foot scroll, in |
| + | which the artistic and scientific aims of our expedition were set forth, besides a |
| + | detailed list of our equipment and personal effects. Our arms were returned to us only |
| + | on the eve of our departure. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/8.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,11 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 8 |
| + | |
| + | The Siberian Express rushed rapidly through the lowlands of Siberia, with their dark |
| + | virgin forests of pines and cedars. Early in the morning the train passed Irkutsk and |
| + | its cathedral, rising against the luminous and transparent sky of early dawn. Then came |
| + | the beautiful southern shore of the great Lake Baikal with its calm surface girded by |
| + | mountain ranges. Beyond Baikal, the country became mountainous and the train steamed |
| + | around forest-clad hills. It was Buriatia, and the Buriats in their pointed fur caps and |
| + | blue coats became more and more prominent on the station platforms. Late in the evening |
| + | the train reached Verkhne-Udinsk, the capital of the Buriat Republic. Here we spent |
| + | three busy days arranging for motor cars to carry us and our baggage to Mongolia. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/2/9.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,262 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 9 |
| + | |
| + | With the beginning of March, 1927, busy days began for the expedition. The future route |
| + | had to be decided upon and men and caravan animals procured. The expedition's |
| + | equipment had to be partly renovated, tents overhauled and stores replenished. |
| + | |
| + | The encircling of inner Asia was not yet complete and we had to look for future fields |
| + | of artistic and scientific work. China was out of the question, because of the severe |
| + | international struggle that ravaged the great country. There remained Tibet, the Land of |
| + | Snows—Tibet, which attracted in the past such a brilliant galaxy of men famous in the |
| + | history of geographical explorations of our globe. The Trustees of the Roerich Museum |
| + | were strongly in favor of our visiting the country for the purpose of collecting written |
| + | and pictorial monuments of Buddhism, to study its living forms, and to bring back a |
| + | pictorial record of a country never before visited by an artist. |
| + | |
| + | From the outset it was impossible to say in what direction we would be able to cross the |
| + | country of Tibet in order to reach the periphery of southern Asia. Central Tibet, with |
| + | its large town monasteries, seemed to be the ideal place for antiquarian research. Most |
| + | of the printing establishments were situated near Lhasa and Shigatse, and we could hope |
| + | to get there a large and important collection of xylographs and manuscripts. It was |
| + | decided to steer toward central Tibet and to decide there upon the farther route. Once |
| + | in central Tibet, we could either continue our journey across the southeastern part of |
| + | the country and cross into the Yunnan Province of China and from there to French |
| + | Indo-China, or pass through a most forbidding forest country, intersected by deep-cut |
| + | river valleys, into British Burma. |
| + | |
| + | The next possible route was along the much trodden trade highway Gyangtse-Chumbi-Sikkim. |
| + | Finally there remained the several routes across southwestern Tibet leading to Almora |
| + | and Simla in the British Himalayas. The long and difficult route to Ladak and the |
| + | eastern route through Chamdo and Bathang to Szu-ch'uan were from the beginning |
| + | rejected, both on account of their difficulty and the fact that they have already been |
| + | followed by several European expeditions. |
| + | |
| + | The whole matter depended greatly on the decision of Tibetan authorities, and although |
| + | we were assured of their good will and desire to help the work of the expedition we |
| + | could not be certain about the last stretch of the journey from Tibet proper into India |
| + | or South China and the French Colonies. The state of affairs in inner Asia and China |
| + | made all sorts of unexpected events possible, and the only thing left to us was to trust |
| + | Providence and proceed on our journey, leaving details to be decided on the spot. |
| + | |
| + | In order to insure the safe passage of the expedition through the forbidden country of |
| + | Tibet, it was decided to obtain proper permits from the Tibetan Government. We knew that |
| + | the Mount Everest expeditions obtained passports from the Lhasan Government permitting |
| + | the exploration of the mountain from the Tibetan side. In order not to be intruders and |
| + | to make known our plans to the Government of the country, we applied in November, 1926, |
| + | to the Tibetan representative in Urga. This official, who had the rank of a do-nyer, |
| + | informed us that he was willing to help the expedition provided he received |
| + | authorization from his government. A Tibetan caravan in charge of a petty Tibetan |
| + | official was about to start for Lhasa. The Tibetan representative sent with it a long |
| + | report about our expedition. The petition was addressed to His Holiness the Dalai Lama |
| + | and a speedy telegraph answer by way of Calcutta and Peking was requested. |
| + | |
| + | In February, 1927, the Tibetan representative sent a telegraphic request to Lhasa |
| + | through Peking. A special official from the Tibetan consulate was deputed to Peking to |
| + | cable from there to Lhasa and obtain a reply. He returned by the end of March with the |
| + | good news that the Lhasan Government had authorized the delivery of passports to the |
| + | expedition. The Tibetan representative promptly issued a passport for travel to inner |
| + | Tibet or Pö-nang, a separate letter to the frontier authorities, and a letter of |
| + | introduction to His Holiness the Dalai Lama. |
| + | |
| + | Meanwhile another Tibetan caravan of traders was about to start from Urga. An additional |
| + | letter was sent with this caravan informing the Lhasan and frontier authorities of our |
| + | coming. It was difficult to obtain reliable information about routes leading from |
| + | Mongolia to Tibet. The well-known route, Urga-Gurbun-Saikhan Mountains, Alashan, |
| + | followed by the famous Prejevalski and General Kozlov during their memorable campaigns, |
| + | was closed on account of political troubles. There remained the caravan route |
| + | Yum-beise-An-hsi, but this route was very little known, except by a limited number of |
| + | Tibetan traders and Mongolian lamas who had been on pilgrimage to Lhasa. |
| + | |
| + | We spent many days endeavoring to obtain information about localities along the route, |
| + | stages, conditions of water supply in desert tracts, and transport possibilities. The |
| + | only expedition which had covered certain parts of this route was that of General P. K. |
| + | Kozlov in 1899-1901. During this expedition Mr. Kaznakov, one of Kozlov's |
| + | assistants, surveyed the southwestern Gobi, starting from Su-chou and making a traverse |
| + | toward the Mongolian Altai. The hills north of An-hsi chou were carefully surveyed by |
| + | Sir Aurel Stein during his central Asian expedition of 1915. As a whole, the |
| + | southwestern Gobi remains one of the less known desert regions of Mongolia and central |
| + | Asia. |
| + | |
| + | From the existing maps of the region we could gain only a very faint idea of the |
| + | country. Besides this initial difficulty, the few Mongol lamas and Tibetan traders who |
| + | happened to stay in Urga and possessed some knowledge of the route, called the different |
| + | localities by different names and it was quite impossible to figure out the route on the |
| + | existing maps. The only points on the route which could be fixed on the map were the |
| + | monastery of Yum-beise, the Oasis of Shara-khulusun, An-hsi, and Shih-pao-ch'eng in |
| + | the Nan Shan Mountains, the usual southern terminus of the caravan route. |
| + | |
| + | There remained still another route, once followed by Potanin in 1899. This route |
| + | presented many advantages. It lay west of the Gurban-Saikhan range and led across the |
| + | Gobi Desert toward the lake Gashun-nor and the Etsin-gol River. The narrow strips of |
| + | vegetation along the course of the river afforded grazing grounds for caravan animals. |
| + | It was by this route that Chingiz Khan advanced in 1227 A.D. to conquer the Tangut |
| + | Kingdom of the Hsi-hsia. Unfortunately the border country between Kansu and inner |
| + | Mongolia was infested by brigands, which made the passage by this route out of the |
| + | question for a large expedition. We decided to follow the Yum-beise route. |
| + | |
| + | The next important question was of the route from Urga to Yum-beise. Our intentions were |
| + | to use motor cars on this portion of our journey. There are several routes from Urga to |
| + | Yum-beise which are passable for motor cars, but nothing definite about them was known |
| + | at Urga. The first route ran from Urga through Dzain-shabi-Lama-yin Gegen – Yum-beise. |
| + | This route was almost impassable during the spring and summer months because of numerous |
| + | rivers, the Orkhon and the rivers of the upper Selenga Basin, which it crossed on its |
| + | way. The second route ran from Urga through Nga-Wang küren – the Monastery Tukhumun |
| + | Dugan – Udzen-Wang – Khara-nidun – Yum-beise. This route had the great advantage of |
| + | avoiding the difficult rivers of the Selenga Basin, and crossed the Ongin-gol in its |
| + | upper course. The third route coincided with the second route as far as the monastery of |
| + | Nga-Wang küren. From this point it ran south by southwest in the direction of the lakes |
| + | Tsagan-nor and Orok-nor; it led over the firm ground of a stone desert, and quicksands |
| + | and marshy ground were met only in the vicinity of the lakes Tsagan-nor and Orok-nor. |
| + | |
| + | All the above routes led to Yum-beise. It was our intention to continue our journey on |
| + | motor cars south of Yum-beise. We knew of great difficulties for motor traffic in the |
| + | mountains south of Yum-beise and were trying to find out another route in order to avoid |
| + | the rugged mountain ridges with belts of impassable sand dunes south of Yum-beise. |
| + | |
| + | It was impossible to say from the beginning how many days we should have to travel to |
| + | reach Yum-beise. Over a good road we could easily make sixty miles a day, but over heavy |
| + | sandy ground we would have to proceed with the utmost care. Well-informed people advised |
| + | us to start early in April before the sands in the desert had time to thaw and become |
| + | soft. We were unable to obtain new cars from Peking in time and had to proceed in hired |
| + | cars. In order to have a sufficient supply of gasoline at Yum-beise for the proposed |
| + | journey from Yum-beise to An-hsi, we hired a camel caravan which started about March 15 |
| + | with a gasoline supply for Yum-beise. |
| + | |
| + | Another reason for hastening our departure was the approaching end of the camel season. |
| + | In case we were unable to proceed on our motor cars farther than Yum-beise, we would |
| + | have to hire camels there to continue the journey. If we delayed our departure from |
| + | Urga, we would arrive at Yum-beise in May and it would be impossible to obtain camel |
| + | transport. The caravan season for camels begins in the second half of August and |
| + | continues through the whole of winter until April or even May. It runs through the |
| + | coldest period of the year and the number of frozen men or men disfigured by frozen |
| + | faces, ears, and limbs is appalling. I once happened to see a big caravan of Tibetans |
| + | and Mongols coming from Tibet in midwinter. The men had left Sining in September and for |
| + | four months had fought their way across the wind-swept expanses of the Gobi. Many of |
| + | them contracted pneumonia and died a few stages south of Urga. Even these men, hardened |
| + | as they were to the dismal conditions of traveling, could not endure the trial. Those |
| + | who remained alive had their noses and cheeks frozen and long strips of blackened skin |
| + | hung down their faces. Fearful swollen and blackened feet and hands, with evil-smelling |
| + | wounds in which gangrene was rapidly developing, were ample proofs of their sufferings. |
| + | Notwithstanding the terrible physical condition of the caravan, the men were cheerful |
| + | and even held the opinion that the journey was a very successful one, for the caravan |
| + | had crossed by the robber-infested region north of Kansu unmolested. Such is the |
| + | reasoning of these tradesmen, who would stand almost anything provided their goods and |
| + | caravan animals arrived intact. These desert crossings must have a special lure for |
| + | them, for again and again they brave the perils of a Gobi winter and travel hundreds of |
| + | miles in order to sell a few pieces of Tibetan country-made cloth or incense sticks. |
| + | This could not be the mere pursuit of profit, for Mongol-Tibetan trade has never |
| + | developed to a large extent. We have to look for an explanation in the nature of the |
| + | desert itself, which exercises a strange, almost uncanny influence on any one who has |
| + | once traveled over its expanses. The sailor is ever attracted by the sea, but the desert |
| + | has its caravan man, who again and again returns to its vast unforgettable spaces and |
| + | freedom. |
| + | |
| + | In Urga, as in any of the big central Asian trading cities, the caravan men are a |
| + | special caste of people, who play the part of seaport sailors. Among this class of |
| + | caravan men, which is nowadays joined by the numerous confrérie of motor car drivers, |
| + | you meet a unique collection of human types. Here are Russians, Germans, French, |
| + | Mongols, Chinese, Tartars from Chinese Turkestan, Kirghizes, and Tibetans—men of |
| + | different nationalities and different social standing, sons of prominent statesmen, |
| + | former military men, tradesmen, and hunters, contrabandists, and former culprits, who |
| + | seek security in the freedom of the desert. All this motley crowd of people fill the |
| + | guest houses of Urga, always on the lookout for some job. A leader of an expedition has |
| + | to be constantly on his guard in dealing with this sort of people. They will come and |
| + | see him, will assure him of their best intentions, call him father or brother, as the |
| + | case may be, and will promise to be obedient followers ready for any emergency. I have |
| + | no doubt that most of these men possess a considerable amount of personal courage and |
| + | that in the course of their lives many of them took part in bloody affairs; but for a |
| + | scientific expedition, whose object is research and not adventure or conquest of new |
| + | regions, such men are dangerous and sometimes may ruin the whole undertaking. |
| + | |
| + | When we were enlisting men for our caravan, and the small guard which was to protect the |
| + | passage of the expedition through the brigand area of inner Mongolia, hundreds of |
| + | people—Russians, Estonians, Mongols, Chinese, and Tibetans—came to offer their services. |
| + | Someone had spread the rumor in the city and its neighborhood that the American |
| + | expedition was in need of 900 men! They came pouring in—unemployed workmen, Siberian |
| + | Cossacks, Mongol ex-soldiers, and Chinese coolies. All of them assured us that they had |
| + | nothing to lose, nothing to leave behind, that the lives of most of them were completely |
| + | wrecked, and that they were eager to take part in a scientific adventure. We had to send |
| + | back most of our visitors, and engaged some sixteen men, sturdy Mongols, whose past and |
| + | present we could ascertain from local inhabitants. It was somewhat difficult to obtain |
| + | suitable men from among the Tibetans of Urga, for few of them desired to return to their |
| + | mother country. It seemed that they preferred the easy life of Urga to that of Lhasa. |
| + | |
| + | In a month we gathered a sufficient number of men, who were engaged as camp servants and |
| + | could serve as a fighting force in case of a conflict with brigand bands. Our expedition |
| + | headquarters in Urga with their two courtyards were soon swarming. Several felt tents |
| + | were pitched, in which the men of the escort were quartered and the expedition stores |
| + | and supplies deposited. In the second courtyard stood the horses of the expedition |
| + | guard, tied to picket ropes. A sentry was placed at the entrance to keep out strangers. |
| + | The expedition guard received daily instruction in military drill and the use of |
| + | firearms. Each man had to know how to behave in case of a fight, both on horse and on |
| + | foot; how to take care of his arms and horse. Besides this he had to know the duties of |
| + | a sentry and to be trained in signaling and reconnoitering in order to be able to give |
| + | warning of any danger. Most of the men were former hunters. They were all good marksmen |
| + | and many of them were good riders—essential in an expedition, for it prevents sore backs |
| + | and saves the animals. Besides drill and target practice, the men were taught to set and |
| + | roll up tents. They had to know all about such work, in order to pitch camp quickly |
| + | after a long, hard day of marching. |
| + | |
| + | In Urga the expedition was joined by Mr. Portniagin of Harbin, a young man of |
| + | considerable experience in hard traveling across the Mongolian Gobi and of considerable |
| + | personal courage. |
| + | |
| + | Mrs. Roerich was accompanied on the trip by her personal assistants, two local Cossack |
| + | girls, well prepared for the hard journey ahead of us. The outstanding feature of the |
| + | expedition was the presence of three women on its staff, who bore all the hardships on |
| + | the same footing with the men. The male personnel of the expedition had to give them |
| + | full homage for their remarkable fortitude under the most trying conditions and physical |
| + | danger. |
| + | |
| + | On March 28 we had the great joy of greeting our American co-workers, Mr. and Mrs. |
| + | Lichtmann, who arrived at Urga, bringing with them supplies and equipment for the |
| + | expedition. The expedition was also joined by Dr. Riabinin, an old friend of ours, who |
| + | volunteered to accompany us as medical advisor. His knowledge as doctor and dentist made |
| + | his presence of great help to the expedition. Mr. and Mrs. Lichtmann brought with them |
| + | quantities of camp outfits and tents, besides the very welcome winter clothing and |
| + | medical chests sent by Mr. L. L. Horch and Mr. S. N. Roerich. The new tents from New |
| + | York were of the so-called Canadian pattern—conical tents supported by only one pole |
| + | with two crossbars to hold up the corners and a sewn square flooring. These tents had |
| + | the great advantage of being extremely light. A man could easily carry one on his back, |
| + | and a pack horse or mule could transport four of them. When pitching camp, a tent could |
| + | be erected by a single man. They stood the windstorms and gales of the Tibetan highlands |
| + | and altogether proved a very valuable addition to our camping outfit. The arrival of |
| + | medical chests relieved us of a great anxiety. It was impossible in Urga to replenish |
| + | our traveling chests and we were glad to receive an abundant supply from New York. |
| + | |
| + | The old expedition tents needed considerable repair in order to stand another journey |
| + | across the desert. All the wooden tent pegs, suitable for soft and sandy ground, had to |
| + | be replaced by iron pegs, the only suitable material for the stony ground of the desert. |
| + | We also bought several Chinese mai-han or tents made of blue cloth and supported by two |
| + | poles and one horizontal bar; these have a wonderful oval shape and stand firmly during |
| + | windstorms. They are generally used by caravans, their only defect being that they are |
| + | cold and not waterproof. We did not take Mongol felt tents, for these with their wooden |
| + | frames require a considerable time to pitch and become exceedingly heavy after a rain or |
| + | snowstorm. During our subsequent detention on the cold Tibetan uplands, we often |
| + | regretted not having at least one winter felt tent. The repair of the old tents and the |
| + | strengthening of new tents took a considerable time and a full month elapsed before |
| + | everything, pegs, ropes, tent bags, etc., was ready and of the required quality. |
| + | |
| + | The saddlery also required much attention. We had received from New York two western |
| + | saddles—wonderful saddles for steppe horses in central Asia. No European saddle could be |
| + | obtained in Urga, and the Mongol escort did not know how to ride the ordinary English |
| + | saddle. We had to procure Cossack saddles, which were common on the Urga market; these |
| + | were handy and well suited to steppe horses. It is of utmost importance to have good |
| + | saddles both for riding and pack, to prevent sore backs and preserve the animals. The |
| + | bridles must also be carefully chosen. Bridles with thick irons are useless on the |
| + | steppe or hill ponies of central Asia. A Cossack bit is ideal. The central Asiatic horse |
| + | is usually headstrong and of an uncertain temper, and a severe bit is necessary in order |
| + | to prevent bolting, a habit to which the animal is addicted. |
| + | |
| + | The winter outfit for the personnel of the expedition also caused much anxiety. Urga is |
| + | not an ideal place for equipment. We were obliged to buy Chinese tanned sheepskin and |
| + | make warm sleeping bags and fur coats. We also found on the market several Siberian fur |
| + | coats of heavy sheepskin. Every man in the expedition was equipped with a pair of warm |
| + | fur-lined boots, called ichigi, in general use throughout Mongolia and Siberia. |
| + | |
| + | The food supplies also had to be arranged, and all this took a great deal of time and |
| + | energy on the part of the European personnel of the expedition. |
| + | |
| + | Our stay in Urga was rapidly drawing to an end and the date of departure, fixed for |
| + | April 15 was already close at hand. On April 14 the gates of the expedition compound |
| + | swung wide to let in the cars. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/3/33.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,8 @@ | |
| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 33 |
| + | |
| + | Two days, the 27th and 28th, we went on the Ob River, wonderful spaces; had such talks, |
| + | so much was given to us; we were thought [of at] every moment. Unforgettable days. Very |
| + | hot. Poor Mother suffered terribly. When we arrived in Barnaul, the steamer which was |
| + | supposed to take us over from our boat did not arrive; so it took the whole next day in |
| + | Barnaul, up to three o’clock in the morning, until the other boat came and took us over. |
| + | It is getting cooler, the sea level is rising. A tremendous river is the Ob and so wide. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/3/34.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,13 @@ | |
| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 34 |
| + | |
| + | Next day, started later than planned. Mother disliked the driver, Edokoff, [and] said we |
| + | will have trouble, begged us to drop him and take other horses, driver, and carriages. |
| + | We did not listen to her, [but] her words as always were prophetic. We had a very |
| + | dangerous trip throughout because of Edokoff. |
| + | |
| + | Came late to Krasnyi Yar, could not find lodging for the night |
| + | and |
| + | had to go to a selo, Altayskoe, where there was a hut full of people; so N.K. and |
| + | Maurice had to sit half the night with their elbows on the table, and the rest—Mother, |
| + | George, and I, sat in the carriages. We began to see that Edokoff did not even know |
| + | the road, [and] that his horses were poor. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/3/35.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,23 @@ | |
| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 35 |
| + | |
| + | Went away the 22nd—a remarkable day—the funeral [of Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky, chief |
| + | of the Soviet secret police] and crowds, music, the shouting of canons, great personages |
| + | passing by, [and] we on the balcony. Very nervous that we may be late getting to our |
| + | train; finally three automobiles arrived, and we, amidst tremendous crowds and the |
| + | military with banners [and] music received a most marvelous, unusual send off—friendly |
| + | crowd, very interested, watching us; people greeting, sending greetings to the far-off |
| + | friends in America. Processions on the way, parting to give us way as if magically; |
| + | everywhere we pass freely; more, with reverence. An unforgettable day, a great going |
| + | away. Mother remembering a dream: they, altogether five people going amidst crowds, |
| + | music, blue-capped soldiers, banners. And she was told that this was in Milton. |
| + | |
| + | As they were making their way here, they received a three-day transit visa by telegraph |
| + | from Chambers and later a second cable asking about citizenship. But the consul in |
| + | Urumchi told them to go on, saying that he had not received the telegram—[which showed |
| + | up] later—and that they should go. And he sealed all their important papers with a |
| + | diplomatic seal, risking his position by this act, having not seen the papers before; |
| + | [but he did so] with complete faith and belief, having family [E.I. and N.K.] and |
| + | trusting them. For that, [he] received a ring and was brought closer. |
| + | |
| + | Astonishment of all in Milton, that such a tremendous amount of baggage was brought |
| + | without examination. Grabar said that usually two trunks at least are examined! |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/4/36.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,11 @@ | |
| + | # Book 4 - Chapter 36 |
| + | |
| + | Мой Глаз — ваш свет! |
| + | |
| + | Моя Рука — ваша защита! |
| + | |
| + | Моё Сердце — ваш якорь! |
| + | |
| + | Едина любовь держит нить достижения духа. |
| + | |
| + | Пучина не поглотит огонь. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/5/37.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,29 @@ | |
| + | # Book 5 - Chapter 37 |
| + | |
| + | Путник-друг, пойдем вместе. Ночь близка, звери кругом, и огонь костра |
| + | может потухнуть. Но если мы согласимся разделить дозор ночи, мы сохраним |
| + | силы. |
| + | |
| + | Завтра наш путь долог и мы можем истомиться. Пойдем вместе. У нас будет |
| + | праздник и радость. Спою тебе песню твоей матери, и жены, и сестры. |
| + | Ты же скажешь предание отца о герое и подвиге. Будет наш путь общим. |
| + | |
| + | Не наступи на скорпиона и предупреди меня |
| + | о ехидне.Путник-друг, помни, что мы должны прийти |
| + | в одно селение горное. |
| + | |
| + | Путник, будь мне другом. |
| + | |
| + | Рассеиваем суеверие, невежество и страх. Куем мужество, волю и знание. |
| + | |
| + | Всякое стремление к просвещению приветствовано. Каждый предрассудок невежества |
| + | обличен. |
| + | |
| + | Трудящийся, горят ли в твоем сознании основы сотрудничества и общины? |
| + | |
| + | Если это пламя уже просветило мозг твой, усвой признаки Учения Наших гор. |
| + | |
| + | Трудящийся, не устань перед головоломкой некоторых выражений. Каждая строка — |
| + | высшая мера простоты. |
| + | |
| + | Привет трудящимся и искателям! |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. en/books/6/38.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,9 @@ | |
| + | # Book 6 - Chapter 38 |
| + | |
| + | Почитаемый Махатма, давший книги «Зов», «Озарение» и «Община», передал многие советы и |
| + | знаки Агни Йоги. Эти практические указания собраны |
| + | нами на пользу ищущих знания. |
| + | |
| + | Санскрит и Сензар дают налет изложению и не всегда находят эквивалент в других |
| + | языках. Но тем не менее значение выражений сохранено точно, и участники современной |
| + | жизни будут со вниманием читать это мудрое Учение, идущее от опыта веков. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. ru/books/1/21.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,773 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 21 |
| + | |
| + | "Урус карош!" – кричит лодочник в Порт-Саиде, увидав мою бороду. Всюду на Востоке звенит |
| + | этот народный привет всему русскому. И сверкает зеленая волна, и красная лодка, и |
| + | бело-голубая одежда, и жемчуг зубов: "Карош урус!". Привет Востока! |
| + | |
| + | Вот и Синай показался в жемчужной дымке. |
| + | Вот источник Авраама. Вот и "двенадцать апостолов" – причудливые островки. |
| + | Вот и Джидда, преддверие Мекки. |
| + | Мусульмане парохода молятся на восток, где за розовыми песками скрыто их средоточие. |
| + | Направо древним карнизом залегла граница Нубии. На рифах торчат остовы разбитых судов. |
| + | Чермное море умеет быть беспощадным вместе с аравийским песчаным ураганом. Огненный |
| + | палец вулкана Стромболи недаром грозил и предупреждал ночью. Но теперь, зимою, Чермное |
| + | море и сине, и не жарко, и дельфины скачут в бешеном веселье. Сказочным узором залегли |
| + | аравийские заливы – Кориа Мориа. |
| + | |
| + | Японцы не упускают возможности побывать около пирамид. Эта нация не теряет времени. Надо |
| + | видеть, как быстрозорко шевелятся их бинокли и как настойчиво насущны их вопросы. Ничего |
| + | лишнего. Это не вакантный туризм усталой Европы. "Ведь мы же договоримся наконец с |
| + | Россией", – деловито, без всякой сентиментальности говорит японец. И деловитость пусть |
| + | будет залогом сотрудничества. |
| + | |
| + | В Каире в мечети сидел мальчик лет семи-восьми и нараспев читал строки Корана. Нельзя |
| + | было пройти мимо его проникновенного устремления. А в стене той же мечети нагло торчало |
| + | ядро Наполеона. И тот же завоеватель империи разбил лик великого Сфинкса. |
| + | |
| + | Если обезображен Сфинкс Египта, то Сфинкс Азии сбережен великими пустынями. Богатство |
| + | сердца Азии сохранено, и час его пришел. |
| + | |
| + | Древний Цейлон – Ланка Рамаяны. Но где же дворцы и пагоды? Странно. В Коломбо встречает |
| + | швейцарский консул. Полицейский – ирландец. Француз торговец. Грек с непристойными |
| + | картинками. Голландцы чаевики. Итальянец шофер. Где же, однако, сингалезы? Неужели все |
| + | переехали в театры Европы? |
| + | |
| + | Первые лики Будды и Майтрейи показались в храме Келания около Коломбо. Мощные |
| + | изображения хранятся в сумерках храма. Хинаяна гордится своей утонченностью и чистотой |
| + | философии перед многообразной махаяной. |
| + | |
| + | Обновленная большая ступа около храма напоминает о древнем основании этого места. |
| + | Впрочем, и все Коломбо, и Цейлон только напоминают по осколкам о древней Ланке, о |
| + | Ханумане, Раме, Раване и прочих гигантах. |
| + | |
| + | [И для буддизма Цейлон важное место.] Множество храмов и дворцовых строений могут |
| + | хранить остатки лучшего времени Учения. Кроме известных развалин сколько неожиданностей |
| + | погребено под корнями зарослей. То, что осталось поверх почвы, дает представление о |
| + | былом великолепии места. Всюду скрыты находки. Не надо искать их, они сами кричат о |
| + | себе. Но работа может дать следствия, если будет произведена в широких размерах. К |
| + | развалинам, где один дворец имел девятьсот помещений, нельзя подходить без достаточного |
| + | вооружения. Цейлон важное место. |
| + | |
| + | Общие купания около кисло-сладкой горы Лавиния не являют царство гигантов древности. |
| + | Тонкие пальмы стыдливо нагнулись к пене прибоя. Как скелеты, стоят фрагменты |
| + | Анурадхапуры; [учтем, что Анурадхапура не вполне исследована. И Адамов пик не |
| + | очаровывает]. По обломкам Анурадхапуры можно судить, как мощен был Борободур на Яве. |
| + | |
| + | И опять неутомимо мелькают лица наших спутников японцев, с которыми мы оплакивали |
| + | останки каирских пирамид, перешедших из славной истории в паноптикум корыстного гида. |
| + | |
| + | Неужели Индия? Тонкая полоска берега. Тощие деревца. Трещины иссушенной почвы. Так с юга |
| + | скрывает свой лик Индия. Чёрные дравиды еще не напоминают Веды и "Махабхарату". |
| + | |
| + | Пестрый Мадурай с остатками дравидских нагромождений. Вся жизнь, весь нерв обмена около |
| + | храма. В переходах храма и базар, и суд, и проповедь, и сказатель Рамаяны, и сплетни, и |
| + | священный слон, ходящий на свободе, и верблюды религиозных процессий. Замысловатая |
| + | каменная резьба храма раскрашена грубыми нынешними красками. Художник Сарма горюет об |
| + | этом, но городской совет не послушал его и расцветил храм по-своему; Сарма горюет, что |
| + | многое тонкое понимание уходит и заменяется пока безразличием. |
| + | |
| + | Предупреждает не ходить далеко в европейских костюмах, ибо значительная часть населения |
| + | может быть враждебна. А в Мадурае все-таки один миллион жителей. Сарма расспрашивает о |
| + | положении художников в Европе и в Америке. Искренно удивляется, что художники Европы и |
| + | Америки могут жить своим трудом. Для него непонятно, что искусство может дать средства к |
| + | жизни. У них – занятие художника самое бездоходное. Собирателей почти нет. |
| + | |
| + | Махараджи предпочитают иметь что-либо хоть поддельное, но иностранное или вообще не |
| + | имеют, заменяя продукты творчества аляповатыми побрякушками, или тратят тысячи на |
| + | лошадей. Довольно безнадежны эти соображения о положении искусства. |
| + | |
| + | Сам Сарма – высокий, в белом одеянии, с печально-спокойною речью, ждет что-то лучшее и |
| + | знает всю тяготу настоящего. |
| + | |
| + | Часто жалуются в Индии на недостаток сил. Говорят, что тем же страдает школа |
| + | Рабиндраната Тагора в Больпуре. Недавно, в 1923 году, школа понесла тяжелую утрату. Умер |
| + | друг дела Пирсон; помните его прекрасную книжечку "Заря Востока"? Было в школе несколько |
| + | приезжих хороших ученых, но их влияние было кратковременным. Профессор С. Леви |
| + | жаловался, что состав слушателей не отвечал его курсу. Индусы боятся за дальнейшую |
| + | судьбу школы Тагора. Они говорят: покуда поэт жив, он может давать на это дело личные |
| + | средства и личным воздействием доставать вспомоществование от махараджей и навабов. Но |
| + | что будет, если дело останется без руководителя и без притока средств? |
| + | |
| + | С Тагором не пришлось повидаться. Странно бывает в жизни. В Лондоне поэт нашел нас. |
| + | Затем в Америке удавалось видаться в Нью-Йорке, а Юрию – в Бостоне, а вот в самой Индии |
| + | так и не встретились. Мы не могли поехать в Больпур, а Тагор не мог быть в Калькутте. Он |
| + | уже готовился к своему туру по Китаю, который прошел так неудачно. Китайцы не восприняли |
| + | Тагора. |
| + | |
| + | Бывали многие странности. В Калькутте мы хотели найти Тагора. Думали, что в родном |
| + | городе достаточно упомянуть его имя, ибо все знают поэта. Сели в мотор, указали везти |
| + | прямо к поэту Тагору и бесплодно проездили три часа по городу. Прежде всего нас привезли |
| + | к махарадже Тагору. Затем сотня полицейских, и лавочников, и прохожих бабу посылала нас |
| + | в самые различные закоулки. Наконец на нашем моторе висело шесть добровольных |
| + | проводников, и так мы наконец сами припомнили название улицы, Дварканат-стрит, где дом |
| + | Тагора. |
| + | |
| + | Передавали, что, когда Тагор получил Нобелевскую премию, депутация от Калькутты явилась |
| + | к нему, но поэт сурово спросил их: "Где же вы были раньше? Я остался тем же самым и |
| + | премия мне ничего не прибавила". Привет Тагору! |
| + | |
| + | Мы встретили родственников нашего друга Тагора. Абаниндранат Тагор, брат Рабиндраната, – |
| + | художник, глава бенгальской школы. Гоганендранат Тагор, племянник поэта, – тоже |
| + | художник, секретарь бенгальского общества художников. Теперь он подражает модернистам. |
| + | Хороший художник Кумар Халдар, теперь он директором школы в Лакхнау. Трудна жизнь |
| + | индусских художников. Надо много решимости, чтобы не покинуть этот тернистый путь. |
| + | Привет художникам Индии! Отчего во всех странах положение ученых и художников так |
| + | необеспеченно? |
| + | |
| + | Тернист путь и индусских ученых. Вот у нас на глазах борется молодой ученый Боше Сен, |
| + | биолог, ученик Д. Боше. Он организовал свою лабораторию имени Вивекананды. В его тихом |
| + | домике над лабораторией помещается комната, посвященная реликвиям Рамакришны, |
| + | Вивекананды и других учителей этой группы. Сам Б. Сен – ученик близкого ученика |
| + | Вивекананды – несет в жизнь принципы Вивекананды, бесстрашно звавшего к действию и |
| + | познанию. В этой верхней светелке Б. Сен собирается с мыслями, окруженный вещами, |
| + | принадлежавшими его любимым водителям. Запомнился ярко портрет Рамакришны и его жены. |
| + | Оба лица поражают своею чистотой и устремленностью. Мы посидели в полном молчании у |
| + | этого памятного очага. Привет! |
| + | |
| + | [Кто объяснит, почему путь знания и красоты наиболее трудный? Почему человечество так |
| + | неохотно принимает все сужденное? И потому тем большая радость видеть в Индии признаки |
| + | подъема знания и искусства. Радостно видеть, что в Индии растет число школ и что легионы |
| + | новых просвещенных работников науки и красоты готовы служить победе эволюции.] |
| + | |
| + | Тут же, в Калькутте, недалеко за городом два памятника Рамакришны. На одном берегу |
| + | Дакшинесвар – храм, где долго жил Рамакришна. Почти напротив, через реку, – Миссия |
| + | Рамакришны, усыпальница самого учителя, его жены, Вивекананды и собрание многих памятных |
| + | вещей. Вивекананда мечтал, чтобы здесь был настоящий индусский университет. Вивекананда |
| + | заботился об этом месте. Тут много тишины, и с трудом сознается, что это так близко от |
| + | Калькутты со всеми ее ужасами базаров и сумятицы. |
| + | |
| + | Мы встретили сестру Кристину, почти единственную оставшуюся в живых ученицу Вивекананды. |
| + | Ее полезная работа была прервана войною. И вот после долгого ряда лет сестра Кристина |
| + | снова приехала на старое пепелище. Люди изменились, сознание занято местными проблемами, |
| + | и нелегко сестре Кристине найти контакт с новыми волнами жизни. |
| + | |
| + | В памятный день Рамакришны собирается до полумиллиона его почитателей. |
| + | |
| + | После самого чистого – к самому ужасному. В особых кварталах Бомбея за решетками сидят |
| + | женщины-проститутки. В этом живом товаре, прижавшемся к решеткам, в этих тянущихся |
| + | руках, в этих выкриках заключен весь ужас осквернения тела. И индус-садху с возжженными |
| + | курениями в руках медленно проходит этим ужасным местом, пытаясь очистить его. |
| + | |
| + | Калькутта, так же как Бомбей и Мадрас, как и все портовые города, оскорбляет лучшие |
| + | чувства. Здесь гибнет народное сознание. |
| + | |
| + | Когда мы входили в Чартеред-банк, навстречу из дверей вышла священная корова. И это |
| + | сочетание банка со священной коровой было поражающе. |
| + | |
| + | Огорчило нас "Модерн Ревью". Мы хотели установить связи с Америкой, но редактор сказал: |
| + | "Мы интересуемся только тем, что касается самой Индии". При таком сужении кругозора |
| + | трудно развиваться и эволюционировать. |
| + | |
| + | Много узости и много запутанности и подозрительности. От этого тухнет пламя искания и |
| + | смелости. Хотел я зайти в редакцию газеты. Друг остановил меня: "Вас не должны там |
| + | видеть, могут возникнуть подозрения". И так трудно лучшим людям Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Книга по изучению древних религий, присланная нам из Америки, была принята за мятежную |
| + | литературу. Американский Экспресс имел много переписки, прежде чем мог доставить нам |
| + | посылку. А оттиски статьи Юрия и совсем не дошли из Парижа. |
| + | |
| + | Рычат тигры в Джайпуре. Махараджа запрещает стрелять их. Пусть лучше пожирают его |
| + | подданных, но его светлость должна иметь безопасную забаву стрельбы тигров из павильона |
| + | на спине слона. В Голта Пасс сражаются два племени обезьян. Проводник устраивает этот |
| + | бой за самую сходную плату. Теперь все битвы могут быть устроены очень дешево. |
| + | |
| + | Сидят факиры, "очаровывая" старых полуживых кобр, лишенных зубов. Крутится на базаре |
| + | жалкий хатха-йог, проделывая гимнастическую головоломку для очищения своего духа. |
| + | "Спиритуалист" предлагает заставить коляску двигаться без лошадей, но для этого нужно, |
| + | "чтобы на небе не было ни одного облачка". |
| + | |
| + | И тут же рядом фантастичный и романтичный обломок старой Раджпутаны – Амбер, где с |
| + | балконов принцессы смотрели на турнир искателей их сердец. Где каждые ворота, где каждая |
| + | дверка поражают сочетаниями красоты. И тут же углубленный и причудливый Голта, который |
| + | не может представить фантазия – только "игра" жизни наслаивает такие неожиданные |
| + | созидания. И тут же Джайпур со сказочной астрологической обсерваторией и с очарованием |
| + | неиспорченного индо-мусульманского города. Фатехпур Сикри, Агра – редкие обломки ушедшей |
| + | культуры. Но стенопись Аджанты уже не прочна. |
| + | |
| + | Все остатки строительства Акбара имеют налет какой-то грусти. Здесь великий объединитель |
| + | страны хоронил свои лучшие мечты, так непонятые современниками. В Фатехпур Сикри он |
| + | беседовал со своим мудрым Бирбалом и с немногими, понявшими его уровень. Здесь он строил |
| + | храм единого знания. Здесь он терял немногих друзей своих и предчувствовал, как не |
| + | сохранится созданное им благополучие государства. И Агра, и Фатехпур Сикри – все полно |
| + | безграничною грустью. Акбар знал, как будет расхищено достояние, данное им народу. Может |
| + | быть, уже знал, как последний император дотянет до половины девятнадцатого века, торгуя |
| + | мебелью своего дворца и ковыряя из стен дворца в Дели осколки мозаик. |
| + | |
| + | Новый Дели с какими-то ложноклассическими колоннами, казарменно-холодными, нарочито |
| + | вычурными, показывает, что это строительство не может иметь общее понимание с сознанием |
| + | Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Очистить Индию и возвеличить ее можно не этими мерами. И прежде всего надо вместить |
| + | индусское сознание. |
| + | |
| + | При всей запыленности временем архитектура Бенареса все же сохраняет очарование. Все |
| + | смешение форм староиндусских и мусульманских может давать новые решения для |
| + | непредубежденного архитектора. Легко можно представить комбинацию многоэтажного |
| + | тибетского строения с удобствами американского небоскреба. Можно провести уравнение от |
| + | дворцов Бенареса к дворцам Венеции и к жилому особняку. Можно разработать стиль пуэбло |
| + | американских в новейшем понимании, как делается в Санта-Фе. |
| + | |
| + | Но обезобразить Индию чуждыми ей ложноклассическими колоннами и казарменными белыми |
| + | бараками?! Это глубокое безвкусие происходит от отсутствия всякого воображения и |
| + | прозрения. |
| + | |
| + | Один индус жаловался мне на отсутствие индусов-архитекторов. Я говорил: "Если нет |
| + | архитектора, дайте живописцу разработать идею, но идите от гармонии народного сознания с |
| + | характером природы". Нельзя опоганить весь мир одним казенным бунгало. Нельзя из Явы |
| + | делать шведский Стокзунд. М нельзя команчей и апачей видеть в коттеджах Бостона. |
| + | Соизмеримость должна быть соблюдена. |
| + | |
| + | Седобородый человек на берегу Ганга, сложив чашу рук, приносил все свое достояние |
| + | восходящему солнцу. Женщина, быстро отсчитывая ритм, совершала на берегу утреннюю |
| + | пранаяму. Вечером, может быть, она же послала по течению священной реки вереницу |
| + | светочей, молясь за благо своих детей. И долго бродили по темной водной поверхности |
| + | намоленные светляки женской души. Глядя на эти приношения духа, можно было даже забыть |
| + | толстых браминов Золотого храма. Вспоминалось иное. [Вспоминались Йоги, посылающие в |
| + | пространство свои мысли, созидая тем грядущую эволюцию. Не обычные брамины, но |
| + | действенные отшельники, приближающие нашу мысль к энергии, которая будет открыта учеными |
| + | в самом ближайшем будущем.] |
| + | |
| + | Гигантские ступы буддизма – погребальные памятники, обнесенные оградою, те же курганы |
| + | всех веков и народов. Курганы Уппсалы в Швеции, русские курганы Волхова на пути к |
| + | Новгороду, степные курганы скифов, обнесенные камнями, говорят легенду тех же |
| + | торжественных сожжений, которые описал искусный арабский гость Ибн-Фадлан. Всюду те же |
| + | очищающие сожжения. |
| + | |
| + | Много благовоний, розовой воды и пахучего сандалового дерева. Потому не тяжел дым |
| + | сожжений в Бенаресе. И в Тибете сожжение тоже принято. |
| + | |
| + | Значит, опять писатели напутали, когда описывали исключительно "дикие" обычаи Тибета. |
| + | Откуда же это желание показать все чужое более диким? Черня других, сам белее не |
| + | станешь. Лишь отсутствие горючих материалов заставляло отступать от лучшего способа, то |
| + | есть от сожжения. |
| + | |
| + | Обратите внимание на нежные детские игры Востока. Послушайте сложный ритм пения и тихой |
| + | музыки. Нет грубых бранных слов Запада. |
| + | |
| + | Махараджа Майсора просыпается под особые песни. Песни начала и конца. |
| + | |
| + | В Мадурае, в тесном закоулке, старик чеканит изображения "богов". Последний старик, с |
| + | ним умрет это уменье. Прошлое умирает. Так приходит будущее. |
| + | |
| + | На полях стоят круги из белых керамиковых коней. Откуда эти Световитовы кони? На них |
| + | тонкие тела женщин мчатся по ночам. Спина, днем согбенная в домашнем обиходе, |
| + | выпрямляется ночью в полете. Что это – козлиный прыжок на шабаш? Нет, это скачка |
| + | валькирий – дев воздуха. Скачка за прекрасным будущим. Привет женщине! |
| + | |
| + | Рука женщины каждый день открывает особым рисунком песок перед входом в дом. Это символ |
| + | того, что в доме все благополучно, нет ни болезни, ни смерти, ни ссоры. Если нет счастья |
| + | в доме, то и рука женщины замолкает. Как бы щит красоты в час благополучный полагает |
| + | перед домом рука женщины. Уже девочки в школах учатся разнообразию узоров для знаков |
| + | счастья. Невыразимая красота живет в этом обычае Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Вивекананда звал к работе и свободе женщину Индии, он же спросил так называемых |
| + | христиан: "Если вы так любите учение Иисуса, почему вы ни в чем ему не следуете?". Так |
| + | говорил ученик Рамакришны, прошедшего сущность всех учений и научившегося на жизни "не |
| + | отрицать". Вивекананда не есть прилежный "свами". Что-то львиное звучит в его письмах. |
| + | Как он был бы нужен Индии сейчас! |
| + | |
| + | "Буддизм – самое научное учение", – говорит индусский биолог Боше. Радостно слышать, как |
| + | этот большой истинный ученый, нашедший путь к тайнам жизни растений, говорит о Веданте, |
| + | Махабхарате, о поэзии легенд Гималаев. Только настоящее знание может найти всему сущему |
| + | достойное место. И под голос ученого, простой и понятный, серебристые звоны |
| + | электрических аппаратов отбивают пульс жизни растений, открывая давно запечатанную |
| + | страницу познания мира. |
| + | |
| + | Мать Боше в свое время продала все свои драгоценности, чтобы дать сыну образование. |
| + | Ученый, показывая свое "царство", говорит: "Вот здесь в роскошных условиях находятся |
| + | дети богачей. Посмотрите, как стали они пухлы и дряблы. Им нужна хорошая буря, чтобы |
| + | опять вернуть их к жизненным условиям". Зная пульс растительного мира, ученый здраво |
| + | подходит ко всем проявлениям жизни. Очень ценит отзыв Тимирязева о его трудах. Одну из |
| + | лучших книг своих Боше написал на высотах Пенджаба в Майявати – в общине Вивекананды. |
| + | |
| + | Слишком рано ушел Вивекананда. Боше и Тагор – лучшие лики Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Фрески Аджанты, мощная Тримурти Элефанты и гигантская ступа в Сарнате – все это говорит |
| + | о каких-то других временах, теперь уже неприложимых. Существует известие, что уже во |
| + | времена Будды культура Индии начала поникать. И сейчас, может быть, нигде так не |
| + | мерещится эта бывшая красота, как иногда в тонком и стройном силуэте женщины, несущей |
| + | свою вечную воду. Воду, питающую очаг. И колодезь, так же как в библейские времена, |
| + | остается местом средоточия всего поселения. |
| + | |
| + | На самых задворках в маленькой клумбочке убогих цветов покоится безобразненькое |
| + | изображение Ганеши – слона счастья. Семья индусского кули, живущая в шалаше, уделяет ему |
| + | последние зерна риса. Не много счастья принесло им это изображение. Индию надо знать не |
| + | только из дворцов махараджи. |
| + | |
| + | По разным соображениям, понятным лишь для бывших на Востоке, пришлось отказаться от |
| + | личной встречи с Ауробиндо Гхошем. Помните ли, видели ли замечательные предсказания |
| + | Гхоша о ближайших судьбах человечества в Азии? Эти замечательные письма Поля Ришара и |
| + | прозрения Ауробиндо Гхоша? На современном фоне близоруких политик его работа полна |
| + | знания для будущего. Обычно о нем мало слышат люди. Помните ли слова о семи нациях? И о |
| + | мировых катаклизмах? Привет! |
| + | |
| + | И ведь люди, ругающие все русское, втайне мечтают о какой-то торговле и сношениях именно |
| + | с Россией. |
| + | |
| + | Экспортеры Цейлона, Ассама и Дарджилинга очень хотели бы иметь дело с русскими. |
| + | Китайский Туркестан, говорят, мечтает об этом, ибо трудный караванный путь через |
| + | Каракорум и Кашмир необычайно сложен. |
| + | |
| + | Несмотря на обилие туристов, как-то мало знают Америку. Оно и понятно. Вся масса |
| + | туристов быстро протекает через блиндированные каналы Томас Кук и К° и Американского |
| + | Экспресса и не может входить в действенный контакт с жизнью страны. На севере Индии |
| + | американцев называют "кочевниками", ибо агентства придают этим спешащим, запыхавшимся |
| + | группам особый характер, совершенно вне народного понимания. Из окон вагона мелькают |
| + | притаившиеся деревушки, эти первоначальные поставщики всех продуктов и делатели народа. |
| + | Кому дело до этих первоисточников? |
| + | |
| + | При наличии таких изысканных ценностей, как Рабиндранат Тагор, Д. Боше, нельзя |
| + | примириться с тем, что еще составляет содержание храмов. Вот фаллический культ – лингам |
| + | в Элефанте. Еще до сих пор в святилищах этого культа видны следы свежих |
| + | жертвоприношений. Из древней мудрости мы знаем, что "Лингам – сосуд знания", и знаем |
| + | научное объяснение этого незапамятного понимания мудрого распределения сил. Но ведь |
| + | сейчас, вне всяких пониманий, идет суеверное поклонение. |
| + | |
| + | Другое безобразное зрелище! В Золотом храме в Бенаресе мимо нас провели белую козочку. |
| + | Ее увели в святилище. Там, вероятно, она была одобрена, ибо через малое время ее, |
| + | отчаянно упиравшуюся, спешно протащили перед нами. Через минуту она была растянута в |
| + | притворе храма и широкий нож брамина отсек ей голову. Трудно было поверить, что было |
| + | совершено священное действие. Мясо козы, должно быть, пошло в пищу браминам. Ведь |
| + | брамины мяса не кушают, за исключением мяса жертвенных животных. А таких животных |
| + | запуганное население, вероятно, приводит ежедневно. Учение, предполагавшее браминов, |
| + | очевидно, видело их какими-то иными, но не теми, как они выродились сейчас. Даже |
| + | декоративно они не хороши. Могут ли они хранить красоту символов знания? Пока уложение |
| + | каст не изменено в Индии, страна не может развиваться. |
| + | |
| + | Теперь касты пришли в неописуемую неразбериху. Махараджи иногда бывают из низшей касты |
| + | чистильщиков нечистот. Впрочем, каждый чистильщик нечистот знает, что в следующем |
| + | воплощении он будет королем. Не отсюда ли происходят внешность и мозговые качества |
| + | некоторых королей? А сколько драм, убийств и самоубийств происходит вследствие кастовой |
| + | разницы между мужьями и женами. Даже за наше пребывание пришлось читать о нескольких |
| + | тяжелых семейных драмах на этой почве явного пережитка. В то же время веданта и адвайта |
| + | ясно устанавливают принцип единства. Некоторые, наиболее космогонические части Вед |
| + | написаны женщинами. И теперь в Индии приходит время женщин. Привет женщине Индии! |
| + | |
| + | Памфлет Бенгалии кончается обращением к Великой Матери Кали. Люди, мало знающие Индию, |
| + | были бы удивлены. Индию и весь Восток надо знать во всех его ликах. |
| + | |
| + | Может быть, мы пристрастны к браминам? Вспомним, что о них говорил Вивекананда в своих |
| + | письмах. Строго и полно осудил Вивекананда тех из них, которые погрязли в суеверии. |
| + | |
| + | Рамакришна говорил: "В Атмане нет различия между мужчинами и женщинами, между браминами |
| + | и кшатриями". |
| + | |
| + | Рамакришна исполнял самые черные работы, чтобы лично показать отсутствие различий. |
| + | |
| + | В декабре хотим ехать в Гималаи. На нас смотрят изумлённо: "Но ведь там теперь снег". |
| + | Снега боятся! Между тем единственное время для Гималаев – ноябрь – февраль. Уже в марте |
| + | подымается завеса тумана. А в мае – августе совсем редко можно на короткое время увидеть |
| + | всю сияющую гряду снегов. Правда, такое величие нигде не повторено. |
| + | |
| + | Так же как когда приближаетесь к Большому каньону Аризоны, подъезжая к взгорьям |
| + | Гималаев, попадаете в особо неинтересный пейзаж. |
| + | |
| + | И только на рассвете в Силигури, как первые вестники, перед вами на миг покажутся белые |
| + | великаны и опять скроются в курчавых джунглях. И опять чайные плантации. И опять |
| + | казарменные бараки и фактории. Иногда только покажется "местное" жильё и спрячется, |
| + | точно видение другого мира. Рассказы о нападениях тигров и леопардов. Горы ящиков чая с |
| + | меткою Оренж-Пико. Миссионер-бельгиец из Курсеонга. |
| + | |
| + | Становится прохладно. Толпы маленьких кули чинят обвалы – следы минувшего муссонного |
| + | летнего ливня, от которого плесневеет вся природа. Птиц мало. Видны орлы. |
| + | |
| + | Горы плотно закрылись. Вид самого Дарджилинга разочаровывает. Неужели нужно искать |
| + | Гималаи, чтобы найти такую неталантливую Швейцарию? Цветистые типы базара не видны |
| + | сразу, а бесталанные бараки и бунгало уже бьют в глаза. Еще хуже выглядит Лебонг, где |
| + | Нату-ла и Джелап-ла. |
| + | |
| + | Ищем дом. Первые сведения неутешительны. Уверяют, что хороших домов нет. Показывают |
| + | нечто, лишенное и вида и простора, нечто тонущее в закоулках деревянных дач и заборов. |
| + | Все не то. Мы хотим – вот туда, перед ликом всех Гималаев, где не играет городской |
| + | оркестр, где нет приглашений на игры в клубах. "Там ничего не найдете". Но мы упрямы. |
| + | Идем сами. И находим отличный дом. И тишину. И уединение. И всю цепь Гималаев перед |
| + | нами. И еще неожиданность. Именно здесь жил далай-лама во время своего долгого бегства |
| + | из Лхасы. И до сих пор паломники приходят издалека поклониться этому жилью. А для нас |
| + | это именно то, что надо. |
| + | |
| + | Не раз мы просыпались от пения и мерных ударов вокруг дома. Это ламы, земно простираясь, |
| + | многократно обходили наш дом. Побывали и тибетцы, и бутанцы, и непальские шерпы. |
| + | Появляется в огненно-красном халате монгол из Ордоса. Все само пришло. |
| + | |
| + | Кто-то сказал, что это дом привидений. Где-то в народе болтали, что в этом доме живет |
| + | черт и показывается в виде черной свиньи. Но чертей мы не боимся, а в соседней деревне |
| + | Бхутиа Басти много черных свиней, похожих на кабанов. Не исполняли ли роль черта наши |
| + | милые обезьяны, забиравшиеся к нам в ванную и поедавшие около дома горох и цветы? |
| + | |
| + | Скучная необходимость иметь много слуг. И причины – все те же касты. Доходит до абсурда. |
| + | Сторож не чистит дорожки... Почему? Оказывается, по касте своей он кузнец и не имеет |
| + | права взять метлу в руки, иначе он осквернится и станет чистильщиком нечистот. Он решает |
| + | эту проблему оригинально: начал разгребать дорожки пятернею, ползая по земле. Конюх |
| + | оказался из высокой касты кшатриев и намекал на потомков короля, что не мешало ему |
| + | утаскивать лошадиную пищу. Иногда на кухне устраивались религиозные митинги, и повар, |
| + | председатель местной Ария Самадж, в чем-то долго убеждал своих слушателей. Лучше всех |
| + | себя вели тибетцы. У них, у буддистов, нет никаких запретов. Работают быстро. Веселы, |
| + | очень понятливы и легко усваивают. А уж если пойдут по круче скалы, то не угонитесь. |
| + | |
| + | Много рассказов о Тибете, о воинственном племени кам и о диких голоках, которые сами |
| + | себя называют "дикие псы". Там уже времена Зигфрида: закрепляют братскую клятву, |
| + | смешивая и выпивая братскую кровь. Не расстаются с оружием. |
| + | |
| + | Складывается серия "Его страна" и начинается серия "Знамена Востока". В июне после |
| + | первых дождей оказалось, что вся темпера покрылась белыми пятнами плесени. Нужно было |
| + | усиленно топить, чтобы она высохла и начала сходить. |
| + | |
| + | "Его страна". В самом Сиккиме находился один из Ашрамов Махатм. В Сикким Махатмы |
| + | приезжали на горных конях. Их физическое присутствие сообщает торжественную |
| + | значительность этим местам. Конечно, сейчас Махатмы оставили Сикким. Но они были здесь. |
| + | И серебро вершин цепи сияет еще прекраснее... |
| + | |
| + | В сопровождении учеников, художников и ваятелей приходит величавый Ринпоче из Чумби. |
| + | Ходит по всему краю, воздвигая новые изображения Майтрейи. Все ускоряется. В длинной |
| + | беседе лама указывает, что все может быть достигнуто лишь через Шамбалу. Для тех, кому |
| + | Шамбала представляется легендарным вымыслом, это указание – суеверный миф. Но есть и |
| + | другие, вооруженные более практическими знаниями. |
| + | |
| + | Славный Атиша, столп учения, шествовал из Индии в Тибет для очищения учения. Учитель |
| + | проходил мимо уединения Миларепы. Великий отшельник обратил внимание на проходящее |
| + | шествие и, желая испытать силы столпа учения, оказался сидящим на конце стебля травинки. |
| + | Славный Атиша, увидев это проявление отшельника, сошел с носилок и также поднялся на |
| + | конец соседней травинки. И тогда обменялись ученые дружественным приветом. Миларепа |
| + | сказал: "Одинаковы познания наши, но отчего подо мною слегка погнулась травинка, а под |
| + | тобою она сохранила свое напряжение?". Славный Атиша улыбнулся: "Поистине, одинаковы |
| + | знания наши, но я иду из страны, где жил и учил сам Благословенный Татхагата, и это |
| + | сознание возносит меня". |
| + | |
| + | Какие магниты заложены в Индии? Неповторяема прелесть детского хоровода под Мадрасом. |
| + | Эти крошечные Гопи и малюсенький Кришна – Лель и Купава. Самые лучшие образы рассыпаны в |
| + | неосознаваемом богатстве. Индия знает всепроникающее качество магнита. |
| + | |
| + | "А как же с чудесами в Индии?"– спросят приятели Запада. Скажем, "чудес" не видали, но |
| + | всякие проявления психической энергии встречали. Коли говорить о проявлениях "высшей, |
| + | чудесной" силы – тогда вообще не стоит говорить. Но если осознать материально |
| + | достигаемое развитие психофизической энергии, тогда Индия дает и сейчас самые |
| + | замечательные проявления. Знаменитый "злой смертный глаз" Востока существует, и люди |
| + | покорно умирают в назначенный срок, если не сумеют противопоставить свою еще более |
| + | тренированную волю. Передача волевого приказа на расстоянии – существует. Внушение в |
| + | любой форме – существует и в очень сложных сочетаниях. Часть явлений производится |
| + | сознательно, а значительная часть бессознательно, в силу природной способности и |
| + | благоприятных атмосферических условий. И то, что для цивилизованного европейца |
| + | необычайно, то самое для культурного индуса или, вернее, азиата будет самым материально |
| + | обыденным. |
| + | |
| + | Посмотрите, как замечательны физиологические сравнения, проводимые индусами между |
| + | явлениями космическими и человеческим организмом. И матка, и пуповина, и фаллос, и |
| + | сердце – все это в давнее время введено в стройную систему развития мировой клетки. |
| + | Только трудно вызвать их на эти беседы. Опять нужно то доверие, которое пирушкою не |
| + | установите. |
| + | |
| + | Во времена инквизиции за инвольтацию с терафимом сжигали, но в Индии и сейчас |
| + | практикуется этот способ воздействия напряженной воли. Еще в Америке рассказывали о |
| + | ксендзах, применяющих это воздействие. И сейчас на Малабарских холмах могут прийти |
| + | темные люди и за неисполненное желание будут стремиться прикоснуться к вам, сказав: |
| + | "Господин будет болен", или: "Проживешь только десять дней". Если организм в этот момент |
| + | утомлен или воля слаба, то приказ исполняется. И вылечить можно тогда только |
| + | контрвнушением. Но часто обратное воздействие менее сильно (или не применяется вовремя). |
| + | |
| + | Передаваемые случаи "смертного глаза" составляют замечательное и совсем не изучаемое |
| + | задание для психиатров и криминалистов. Лицо, получившее волевой удар, в назначенные |
| + | сроки начинает терять жизненную энергию и теряет самозащиту, и, наконец, аппарат |
| + | останавливается. Врачи, не применив вовремя внушение, теряются в средствах и начинают |
| + | еще более отравлять парализованную нервную систему. Злостное малокровие, поражение |
| + | сердца или селезенки, или желчного пузыря, нервные спазмы и удушья часто являются |
| + | официальным следствием волевого приказа. Трудно установить, как происходит качество |
| + | поражения органов; вернее представить, что наиболее слабый орган скорее реагирует на |
| + | поражение нервов. В малой и грубой степени то же явление знакомо в шаманизме, но степени |
| + | воли и применения ее совершенно несравнимы. Справедливо указывается, что такое волевое |
| + | убийство или повреждение гораздо опаснее механического. И где искать границы этих |
| + | воздействий? На Востоке можно иногда услышать многозначительную фразу: "Он не будет |
| + | жить". Значит, почуяна искра волевого удара. |
| + | |
| + | Два качества нужно отдать англичанам – выдержка и точность во времени. Оба эти качества |
| + | поразительны для Востока. Если бы к ним еще прибавить чистоту мысли! Но этим свойством |
| + | все европейцы мало отличаются. Именно детскими попытками скрыть истинные свои намерения |
| + | европейцы закрывают себе врата Востока. Точность в назначенных сроках, конечно, |
| + | совершенно необходима, ибо "худшая кража есть кража чужого времени", но одна точность |
| + | без ясности и силы мысли еще мост не создает. |
| + | |
| + | Не опаздывайте, если хотите, чтобы вас уважали. Не лгите мысленно, если собираетесь |
| + | найти друзей. |
| + | |
| + | Началось с неизвестных следов, найденных Эверестской экспедицией. Затем в "Стетсмен" |
| + | английский майор рассказывал, как во время одной из экспедиций в область Гималаев он |
| + | встретил странного горного жителя. На восходе солнца среди студеных снегов майор вышел |
| + | из стана и поднялся на соседние скалы. Взглянув на соседнюю скалу, майор, к изумлению, |
| + | увидел высокого, почти обнаженного человека, стоящего опершись на высокий лук. Горный |
| + | житель не смотрел на майора. Его внимание было всецело привлечено чем-то невидимым за |
| + | изгибом утеса. И вдруг человек нагнулся, напрягся и безумно опасными скачками бросился |
| + | со скалы и исчез. Когда майор рассказал своим людям о встрече, они улыбнулись и сказали: |
| + | "Саиб видел "снежного" человека. Они стерегут охраненные места". |
| + | |
| + | Рассказывают недавний случай в Бенгалии. Садху ехал в поезде без билета. На ближайшей |
| + | станции его высадили из вагона. Раздаются звонки. Паровоз свистит и не двигается. Так |
| + | продолжалось некоторое время. Пассажиры вспомнили о высаженном садху и потребовали |
| + | водворить его на место. Тогда поезд двинулся. Вот это массовое воздействие! |
| + | |
| + | Европейка, жившая в Индии, зашла в глухую часть сада и задумалась, отчего не проложены |
| + | дорожки на этих полях. Через три дня она идет туда же и видит свежепроведенную дорожку, |
| + | но окончание дорожки как-то затерялось. Позвали старика садовника: "Кто провел дорожку?" |
| + | – "Ведь мемсаиб хотела иметь дорожку, но я не знал, как окончить ее". И женщина |
| + | вспомнила, что конец ее мысли о дорожке был неясен. |
| + | |
| + | Джагадис Боше утверждает, что чувствительность растений совершенно поразительна. Так |
| + | растения чувствуют образование облачка задолго до его видимости глазом. Восток чует |
| + | мысль при ее зарождении. |
| + | |
| + | В реальном чередовании очевидного и незримого глазом, в эпической простоте особых |
| + | возможностей очарование Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Махендра Пратап замечательно говорит о Лемурии и о сравнении Запада и Востока. |
| + | |
| + | Приходит тибетский портной шить кафтаны. Всю мерку снимает на глаз. Но удивительнее |
| + | всего то, что кафтан выходит впору. И все-то делается не зря. И качество золота на |
| + | обшивку, и цвет подкладки, и длина – и все обдуманно. Местная домодельная ткань очень |
| + | узка, и надо удивляться, как умеют загладить многие швы. Для войска эта же ткань |
| + | делается гораздо шире, но в частную продажу она не поступает. |
| + | |
| + | Тибет помнит о троекратном разделе всех имуществ, бывшем в VIII веке. |
| + | |
| + | Если возьмем твердые исторические даты прошлого века, то можно поразиться, как |
| + | планомерно освобождалось народное сознание от явных пережитков средневековья. Защитники |
| + | пережитков могут просмотреть исторические пути и удостовериться, что происходящее сейчас |
| + | не случайно, но определенно планомерно. Кто страшится этой планомерности, то не может |
| + | понять эволюцию. |
| + | |
| + | Неожиданная поддержка основного буддизма. Реальнейший из реальных Хаксли говорит: |
| + | "Никто, кроме поверхностных мыслителей, не отвергает учение о перевоплощении как |
| + | нелепость. Подобно учению о самой эволюции, названное учение имеет свои корни в мире |
| + | реальностей, и оно имеет право на такую поддержку, на какую имеет право каждое |
| + | рассуждение, исходящее из аналогий". |
| + | |
| + | Две прекрасные подробности буддизма: "Подобно льву, не устрашенному шумами. Подобно |
| + | ветру, неуловимому сетью. Подобно листу лотоса, непроницаемому водою. Подобно носорогу, |
| + | иди в одиночестве". "Изучение и проявление энергии во всех ее видах. Энергия |
| + | неудовлетворения, рождающая вечное устремление, вводящее человека в ритм космического |
| + | потока", – так говорит Асанга. |
| + | |
| + | Где же бездейственный пессимизм? Где же философия отчаяния? – как иногда называли |
| + | буддизм малопонимающие люди. Сколько книг было написано под влиянием ложной романтики |
| + | девятнадцатого века. Сколько ученых, не владея языками, питали свое сознание этими |
| + | мечтательно – кислыми заключениями. А теперь показался иной лик: Будда с мечом, в |
| + | львином дерзновении, во всеоружии всех энергий в мировом строительстве, в космическом |
| + | устремлении. |
| + | |
| + | "Наблюдай движение светил, как принимающий участие в нем, и постоянно размышляй о |
| + | переходе элементов друг в друга. Ибо подобное представление очищает от грязи земной |
| + | жизни", – так размышляет Марк Аврелий. То же самое говорит вам образованный индус |
| + | Гималаев. |
| + | |
| + | Л. Хорн пишет: "С принятием учения об эволюции старые формы мысли рушатся всюду, встают |
| + | новые идеи на место изжитых догматов, и мы имеем перед собой зрелище общего |
| + | интеллектуального движения в направлении, до странности параллельном с восточной |
| + | философией. |
| + | |
| + | Небывалая быстрота и разносторонность научного прогресса в течение последних пятидесяти |
| + | лет не могли не вызвать одинаково небывалого ускорения мышления и в широких вненаучных |
| + | кругах общества. Что высочайшие и наиболее сложные организмы развились из простейших |
| + | организмов; что на единой физической основе жизни стоит весь живой мир; что не может |
| + | быть проведена черта, разделяющая животное и растительное царства; что различие между |
| + | жизнью и нежизнью есть различие по степени, а не по существу, – все это сделалось уже |
| + | общими местами в новой философии. После признания физической эволюции нетрудно сказать, |
| + | что признание эволюции психической – вопрос лишь времени". |
| + | |
| + | В "Дао дэ цзин" сделано такое подразделение типов ученых: "Ученые высочайшего класса, |
| + | когда слышат о Дао, серьезно проводят свои знания в жизнь. Ученые среднего класса, когда |
| + | слышат о Нем, иногда соблюдают Его, а иногда снова теряют Его. Ученые самого низшего |
| + | класса, когда слышат о Нем, лишь громко над Ним смеются". Лао-цзы знал это. |
| + | |
| + | Наблюдательность на Востоке и поражает и радует. И не показная наблюдательность, |
| + | сводящаяся к мертвому трафарету, но тонкая, молчаливая наблюдательность по существу. |
| + | Вспоминается, как учитель предложил новопришедшему ученику описать комнату. Но комната |
| + | было пуста, и в сосуде плавала лишь одна маленькая рыбка. За три часа ученик написал три |
| + | страницы. Но учитель отверг его, сказав, что об одной этой рыбке он мог бы писать всю |
| + | жизнь. В технической подражательности сказывается та же острая наблюдательность. В |
| + | усвоении песенного лада, в характере зова, в движениях вы видите старую мощную культуру. |
| + | Где-то сравнивали индусов, завернутых в плащи, с римскими сенаторами. Это сравнение |
| + | ничтожно. Скорее, философы Греции, а еще лучше создатели Упанишад, "Бхагавадгиты", |
| + | "Махабхараты". И никакого Рима и Греции не было, когда цвела Индия. И последние раскопки |
| + | начинают поддерживать этот несомненный вывод. |
| + | |
| + | Проникновенно смотрит индус на предметы искусства. Конечно, от индуса вы уже ожидаете |
| + | интересный подход и необычайные замечания. Так оно и есть, и потому показывать картины |
| + | индусам настоящая радость. Как увлекательно подходят они к искусству! Не думайте, что их |
| + | занимает лишь созерцание. Вы будете изумлены замечаниям о тональности, о технике и о |
| + | выразительности линии. Если зритель надолго замолчит, не подумайте, что он заскучал. |
| + | Наоборот, это добрый знак. Значит, он вошел в настроение, и можно ждать особо интересных |
| + | выводов. Иногда он скажет целую притчу, и в ней не будет ничего грубого или пошлого. |
| + | Удивительно, как преображаются люди Востока перед художественными произведениями. |
| + | Положительно, зритель Европы труднее входит в струю творчества и часто менее умеет |
| + | синтезировать свои впечатления. |
| + | |
| + | В эпических узорах Индии все укладывается. Окажется в толпе вашим ближайшим соседом |
| + | остов, побелевший от проказы, – вы не пугаетесь. Прислонится к вам садху, выкрашенный |
| + | синими разводами, с прической из коровьего помета – вы не удивляетесь. Обманет вас факир |
| + | с беззубыми кобрами – вы улыбаетесь. Давит толпу колесница Джаганната – вы не |
| + | поражаетесь. Движется шествие страшных нагов Раджпутаны с кривыми жалами клинков – вы |
| + | спокойны. А где же те, ради которых вы приехали в Индию? Те не сидят на базарах и не |
| + | ходят в шествиях. И в жилища их вы не попадете без их желания. Да правда ли они есть? Не |
| + | пишут ли только о них досужие писатели для необыкновенности? Есть, есть и они. И есть их |
| + | знание и умение. И в этом изощрении человеческих качеств возносится вся человеческая |
| + | сущность, и никакая проказа не отвратит вас от Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Все происходящее в метапсихическом институте Парижа, опыты Нотцинга и Рише по |
| + | эктоплазме, опыты Барадюка по фотографированию физических излучений, работы Котика по |
| + | экстериоризации чувствительности и попытки Бехтерева по передаче мыслей на расстоянии – |
| + | все это знакомо Индии, только не как маловероятное новшество, но как давно известные |
| + | законы. Мало говорят на эти темы по недостатку сведущих, научно просвещенных |
| + | собеседников. Древний метод индуизма и буддизма – открывать двери постучавшемуся, но |
| + | никого не зазывать и ничего не навязывать. Но и качество стука должно быть мощно. В |
| + | практическом учении буддизма четко развивается самодеятельность сознания и как следствие |
| + | ее – непоколебимая выдержанность и всепобеждающее терпение. Наибольшее терпение склонит |
| + | победу. Вот бы невеждам отрицателям окунуться в настоящий Восток, поучится и воспринять |
| + | способность вмещения. |
| + | |
| + | Передают два характерные эпизода о таши-ламе. Когда таши-лама был в Индии, к нему |
| + | обратились с вопросом, владеет ли он какими-либо психическими силами. Таши-лама молча |
| + | улыбнулся. Через короткое время, будучи тесно окружен хранителями и офицерами, таши-лама |
| + | неожиданно исчез. Все поиски были безуспешны. Наконец через значительное время офицеры |
| + | увидали его спокойно сидящим тут же в саду, а вокруг него суетились в бесплодных поисках |
| + | хранители. Также и далай-лама был спрошен в Индии. Также и он промолчал. Потом он |
| + | показал присутствующим большую картину Поталы, и вдруг все увидели его сидящим над |
| + | Поталой. Этот случай напоминает, как говорил мне когда-то Горький, что он сам смотрел |
| + | яркие изображения индийских городов на чистых металлических листах альбома, показанного |
| + | ему однажды на Кавказе индусом. При всей своей реальности Горький, однако, утверждает, |
| + | что видел в ярких красках то, что указал индус. Привет Алексею Максимовичу! |
| + | |
| + | Очень чувствителен мир Востока, притяжение мыслью поразительно. Хотелось иметь старого |
| + | тибетского Будду, но это уже трудно теперь. Говорили и мыслили между собою, как достать. |
| + | Через несколько дней приходит лама и несет отличного Будду: "Госпожа хотела иметь Будду, |
| + | и мне указано отдать Будду с моего домашнего алтаря. Не могу продать священное |
| + | изображение – примите в дар". – "Как же вы узнали наше желание иметь Будду?" – "Белая |
| + | Тара явилась во сне и указала отнести вам". Так и бывает чудесно и просто. |
| + | |
| + | Только что прочли в "Стетсмен", что низшие касты Индии начинают охотно принимать |
| + | буддизм. Рабиндранат Тагор в беседе с Ганди высказывался против каст. Из уст брамина это |
| + | признание значительно. Много значительных и прекрасных знаков! |
| + | |
| + | Особое внимание должно быть обращено на Пураны. В них множество ценнейших указаний. |
| + | "Когда сочетаются Солнце и Луна, и Тишья, и Юпитер, тогда наступит век Сатиа – век |
| + | истины". Так отмечает Вишну Пурана век Майтрейи. |
| + | |
| + | Постоянно приходят ламы. Развешивают по лужайке картины. И нараспев, указывая палочкой, |
| + | говорят целый эпос. Яркие краски картин сливаются с самоцветами природы. Воздействие |
| + | через зрение уже издавна оценено. Приходит монашка. Садится у порога и, закинув |
| + | благообразную голову, поет молитвы. Разбираем только "Тра-ши-то!". Вообще с языками |
| + | трудно. Все эти горные наречия немного похожи на тибетский, но все же разница очень |
| + | велика. А число наречий маленьких племен тоже велико. Наконец, приезжает из Лхасы кунг – |
| + | кушо из Доринга, чтобы поклониться дому далай-ламы. Кунг (титул вроде герцога; |
| + | замечательно совпадение: конунг, кунг, кинг) – важный старик с добродушной женою и |
| + | круглолицей, как украинка, дочерью, с многочисленными слугами. На черных рослых мулах |
| + | подбитые серебром высокие седла и многоцветные чепраки. На лбах ярко-красный колпачок с |
| + | изображением Чинтамани. В 1912 году на кунга напали китайские солдаты, едва не ранили. |
| + | Убили его секретаря. Это повело к восстанию Тибета. Кунг удивлен и обрадован нашим |
| + | буддийским предметам. Завтракаем. Делаем тибетские блюда. (Говорим о буддийском |
| + | движении.) Очень чинный старик. |
| + | |
| + | Интересны рассказы об атаках конницы камской и голокской. Дикме наездники не нуждаются в |
| + | уздах. Кони их, как в древних описаниях, принимают участие в битве зубами и копытами. На |
| + | битву всадники сбрасывают халаты до пояса. В шлемах, с мечами, копьями и ружьями эта |
| + | лавина несется, временами исчезая под брюхом коня. Если все средства нападения иссякли, |
| + | то всадники хватают камни с земли и бьются с криком, похожим на хохот. Есть один знак, |
| + | который сразу обуздывает эту лавину. Конечно, каждое племя имеет свои особенности в |
| + | битве, и незнанием их можно ослабить самую лучшую силу. Иногда тибетские женщины и в |
| + | песнях и в жизни не отстают в проявлениях отваги. Они обливают врага горячим варом; они |
| + | насмешливо встречают временных победителей. |
| + | |
| + | С двух сторон пытались поработить Тибет; пытались сделать из сильной страны механический |
| + | заградительный барьер; пытались нарушить внутреннее сознание страны. Но свободен дух |
| + | Тибета, и эта срединная страна хранит потенциал своего достоинства. Умеет хранить |
| + | непроницаемо. |
| + | |
| + | Около Гума стоит высокая скала. Говорят, на вершине ее лежит знаменательное пророчество. |
| + | В каждой ступе положены какие-нибудь значительные предметы. Ошибочно думать, что те |
| + | книжные полки, которые показывают в храмах некоторым путешественникам, составляют все |
| + | книжное имущество монастыря. Кроме этих официальных томов учения, всюду в тайниках у |
| + | настоятеля имеются рукописи необычно интересные. Одно опасно. Часто эти тайники |
| + | повреждаются сыростью, или мышами, или просто забываются при стремительных отъездах. |
| + | Часто лама вам скажет: "У меня записаны пророчества, но с собою их не ношу. Они лежат |
| + | под камнем". Но происходит какое-то нежданное событие; лама спешит закинуть мешок за |
| + | спину и идти, а нужные списки погибают. |
| + | |
| + | Характерны некоторые условные приказы. "Надеть штаны" – значит готовиться к походу. |
| + | Условные выражения часто вносят затруднения в переговоры. Однажды посланник говорил в |
| + | очень высоких выражениях о "волосах Брамы". Никто не понял, и переговоры прекратились. |
| + | Между тем он имел в виду не что иное, как реку Брамапутру. Часто языки, преподаваемые в |
| + | университетах, не помогают на местах. |
| + | |
| + | Китайская книга "Вей Цзян-ду ши" описывает Поталу: "Горные дворцы сияют в пурпурном |
| + | блеске. Сияние вершин гор равняется смарагду. Истинно, красота и совершенство всех |
| + | предметов делают это место несравненным". |
| + | |
| + | Читаем о строителе Поталы Пятом Далай-ламе, именуемом "Владыка заклинаний, |
| + | красноречивый, священный, океан бесстрашия". Это он, вступив в достоинство далай-ламы в |
| + | 1642 году, строил Поталу, Красный дворец (Пхо-Бронг-Марпо) на Красной горе (Марпори). Он |
| + | же строил замечательные монастыри: Мо-ру, Лабран, Гармакиа и много других. Он же воздвиг |
| + | на скале колоссальный рельеф Будды и подвижников буддизма. При нем монголы во второй раз |
| + | вступили в Тибет. Иезуит Грубер очень не любит этого сильного деятеля, хотя и находит, |
| + | что он был осторожен в средствах, стремителен и предан искусству и знанию. |
| + | |
| + | Необычен конец этого далай-ламы. По одной версии, далай-лама умер в восьмидесятых годах, |
| + | и смерть его в течение нескольких лет была скрываема, чтобы урегулировать разные |
| + | политические обстоятельства. По другой версии, далай-лама добровольно покинул правление |
| + | и много лет скрывался в том самом уединении в Гималаях. |
| + | |
| + | История сопровождена следующим древним преданием: "Каждое столетие Архаты делают попытку |
| + | просветить мир общиною. Но до сих пор ни одна из этих попыток не удалась. Неудача |
| + | следовала за неудачей. Сказано, до тех пор, пока лама не родится в западном теле и не |
| + | явится как духовный завоеватель для разрушения векового невежества, до тех пор будет |
| + | мало успеха в рассеянии козней Запада". |
| + | |
| + | Другое предание говорит, что "истинное учение будет сохраняться в Тибете лишь пока Тибет |
| + | будет свободен от иностранных вторжений". |
| + | |
| + | Китайские императоры жили согласно астрономическим временам года. Для каждого времени |
| + | года имелся особый цвет одеяния. Каждая часть года проводилась в особой части дворца. |
| + | |
| + | Метод буддийского учения напоминает метод каббалы. Не навязывание, но привлечение и |
| + | указание лучшего пути. Говорят о замечательном монастыре Мо-ру, об особой учености лам |
| + | монастыря. На три летних месяца ламы уходят для сосредоточения на запад. |
| + | |
| + | При "слушании" ламы часто закрывают голову тканью. Это напоминает "библейские" обряды. |
| + | Напоминает свидетельство Дамиса – ученика Аполлония Тианского, как Аполлоний, когда |
| + | слушал "тихий голос", всегда обертывался весь с головою в длинный шарф из шерстяной |
| + | ткани. Этот шарф сохранялся лишь для этого употребления. Совсем из других времен доходят |
| + | те же подробности. Современники удивлялись, как иногда Сен-Жермен странно "закутывался". |
| + | Вспомним и теплый платок Блаватской. ламы очень наблюдают известное состояние |
| + | температуры, что подсказывает научное отношение к разным явлениям. |
| + | |
| + | Приезжала леди Литтон смотреть картины. В семье Литтон остались традации их знаменитого |
| + | деда Бульвер-Литтона. Приезжал полковник Бейли. Потом пришла вся экспедиция с Эвереста. |
| + | Все-таки непонятно, что они оставили двух погибших товарищей без длительных розысков. |
| + | Между прочим добивались узнать, не поднимались ли мы к Эвересту. На картине "Сжигание |
| + | тьмы" они узнали точное изображение глетчера около Эвереста и не понимали, как этот |
| + | характерный вид, виденный только ими, попал на картину. |
| + | |
| + | Опять вспоминаем споры об учении в нашей кухне. Повар руководит спорами. Тибетец Вонг-тю |
| + | хихикает: "Не умеют спорить, не знают, как ведутся разговоры об учении у нас в Тибете". |
| + | Спор идет до полуночи. |
| + | |
| + | Страница истинного Востока: "Опять приступят с вопросом – как быть с препятствиями? – |
| + | Кому семья мешает, кому нелюбимое занятие, кому бедность, кому нападки врагов. Добрый |
| + | всадник любит изощряться на неученых конях и предпочитает препятствие рва ровной дороге. |
| + | Всякое препятствие должно быть рождением возможности. Явление затруднения перед |
| + | препятствием все-таки происходит от страха. В какой бы убор ни нарядился трус, мы должны |
| + | найти страницу о страхе. Друзья, пока нам препятствия не являются рождением |
| + | возможностей, до тех пор мы не понимаем Учение. Удача лежит в расширенном сознании. |
| + | Невозможно приблизиться при наличии страха. Луч мужества поведет поверх явления |
| + | препятствий, ибо теперь, когда мир знает куда идет, – семя крови растет. Если путь усеян |
| + | костями, можно идти смело. Если народы говорят на незнакомых языках – значит, можно |
| + | открыть душу. Если надо спешить – значит, где-то новый кров готов. Будьте благословенны |
| + | препятствия, вами мы растем!". |
| + | |
| + | Индия, знаю твои скорби, и все-таки будем вспоминать тебя с тем же радостным трепетом, |
| + | как первый цветок на весеннем лугу. Из браминов твоих мы выберем самого лучшего, который |
| + | понял мудрость Вед. Изберем раджу, который стремился к нахождению пути истины. Усмотрим |
| + | вайшью и шудру, которые вознесли свое ремесло и труд для восхождения мира. Котел кипящий |
| + | – горнило Индии. Кинжал верований над белою козочкой. Призрак пламени костра над |
| + | вдовицей. Вызывания и колдовство. Сложны складки одеяния твоего, Индия. Грозны покрывала |
| + | твои, раздутые вихрем. И смертоносно палящи неумолимые скалы твои, Индия. Но мы знаем |
| + | благовония твои. (Индия, мы знаем глубину и тонкость твоей мысли. Знаем великий Аум, |
| + | ведущий к несказанным Высотам. Знаем твой великий Направляющий Дух. Индия, мы знаем твою |
| + | древнюю мудрость! Твои священные письмена, в которых обрисовано прошлое, настоящее, |
| + | будущее.) И мы будем вспоминать тебя с тем же трепетом, как лучший первый цветок на |
| + | весеннем лугу. |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 22 |
| + | |
| + | Зазывно и остро свистят стрелы через овраг из рощи бамбука. Сиккимцы вспоминают свое |
| + | исконное любимое занятие. Говорят: "Стрела лучше пули. Стрела поет поражая, а пуля при |
| + | вылете". |
| + | |
| + | Утром принесли красный лист: "Вечером придет Санге". После заката по зигзагу тропинки |
| + | засверкали огни и загудели трубы. И вот пришло, привалило. Пестрое, шумное, трубное, |
| + | барабанное. И с драконом, и с самодельными конями, и с бумажными яками. И с хлопушками, |
| + | и с разноцветными огнями. И само действо, и пестрая толпа, уходящая в лиловую эмаль |
| + | ночи, и взрывы пламенных искр. Это половецкие пляски! А знамена на шестах – это бунчуки |
| + | Чингисхана! |
| + | |
| + | Если вы поймете, то и вас поймут. Трогательны дары лам. Надо знание, чтобы понять всю |
| + | тонкость замысла подарков. Кому – леопардову. Кому шубу. Кому – халат. Кому – хадак |
| + | (шарф), или с рисунками, или белый. По иероглифам вещей можете прочесть все отношение к |
| + | вам. Признаны ли большим ученым, или оставлены в пределах условной вежливости, или |
| + | оставлены без внимания. Часто непонятная "церемонность" – просто краткий изысканный шифр |
| + | жестов и отношений. |
| + | |
| + | Два мира выражены в Гималаях. Один – мир земли, полный здешних очарований. Глубокие |
| + | овраги, затейливые холмы столпились до черты облаков, курятся дымы селений и монастырей. |
| + | По возвышениям пестрят знамена, субурганы или ступы. Всходы тропинок переплели крутые |
| + | подъемы. Орлы спорят в полете с многоцветными бумажными змеями, пускаемыми из селений. В |
| + | зарослях бамбука и папоротника спина тигра или леопарда может гореть богатым |
| + | дополнительным тоном. На ветках прячутся малорослые медведи, и шествие бородатых обезьян |
| + | часто сопровождает одинокого пилигрима. |
| + | |
| + | Разнообразный земной мир. Суровая лиственница рядом стоит с цветущим рододендроном. Все |
| + | столпилось. И все это земное богатство уходит в синюю мглу гористой дали. Гряда облаков |
| + | покрывает нахмуренную мглу. |
| + | |
| + | Странно, поражающе неожиданно после этой законченной картины увидать новое, надоблачное |
| + | строение. Поверх сумрака, поверх волн облачных сияют яркие снега. Бесконечно богато |
| + | возносятся вершины ослепляющие, труднодоступные. Два отдельных мира, разделенные мглою. |
| + | |
| + | Помимо Эвереста пятнадцать вершин гималайской цепи превосходят Монблан. Если от реки |
| + | Великий Рангит осмотреть все подступы до снеговой черты и все белые купола вершин, то |
| + | нигде не запоминается такая открытая стена высот. В этом грандиозном размахе – особое |
| + | зовущее впечатление и величие Гималаев – "Обитель снегов". |
| + | |
| + | В сторону восхода вершины сливаются в стену сплошную. Зубчатый бесконечный хребет |
| + | священного ящера. Трудно догадаться, что именно там притаились снежные перевалы |
| + | Джелап-ла и Нату-ла по дороге на Шигацзе и Лхасу. Туман особенно часто закрывает этот |
| + | путь. |
| + | |
| + | Навершия буддийских знамен составлены из крестовидного копья, диска, полумесяца и |
| + | лепестков лотоса. Не все ли эмблемы учений срослись на одном древке? В этих напоминаниях |
| + | о символах элементов природы каждый найдет изображение, ему близкое. |
| + | |
| + | На иконах и на украшениях Тибета часто горит драгоценными камнями изображение рыбы – |
| + | счастливый знак – так же, как на стенах римских катакомб. Сошлись в одном понимании |
| + | "колесо жизни" Будды, круг "начал, тайну образующих" христианской церкви и колеса |
| + | Иезекииля. Многоокие серафимы и бесчисленные глаза светлой Матери Мира проникают в те же |
| + | тайники души. |
| + | |
| + | В культах Зороастра изображается чаша с пламенем. Та же пламенеющая чаша отчеканена на |
| + | древнееврейских серебряных шекелях времени Соломона и древнее. В индусских раскопках |
| + | эпохи Чандрагупты Маурьи видим то же самое мощно стилизованное изображение. Сергий |
| + | Радонежский, трудясь над просвещением России, приобщался от пламенеющей чаши. На |
| + | тибетских изображениях бодхисатвы держат чашу, процветшую языками огня. Помним чашу |
| + | жизни друидов. Горела чаша Грааля. Не воображением, но именно делами сплетаются великие |
| + | учения всех веков. Язык чистого огня. |
| + | |
| + | Давно сказано: "Вера без дел мертва". Будда указал три пути: долгий – путь знания, |
| + | короче – путь веры, самый краткий – путь действия. Давид и Соломон славословят |
| + | устремления труда. Веданта твердит о проявлении дел. Поистине в основании всех заветов |
| + | положено действие. Творящий огонь! |
| + | |
| + | Разве чужды символы индусской Тримурти – Троицы? Разве |
| + | буддийское древо желаний, увешанное предметами всех желаний, не |
| + | отвечает нашему понятию рождественской елки? А все детали устройства алтарей храмов? А |
| + | схимники и пещерники, затворившиеся в каменных гробах? А лампады и огни заклинаний? А |
| + | венки и свечи добрых молений, посылаемые по течению Ганга? Троицына березка. Мускус и |
| + | ладан. Кованные, усыпанные каменьями ризы. И камни, брошенные в Будду его близким |
| + | родственником, разве не сродни камням Стефана? Право, не случайно запечатлена буддийская |
| + | легенда на фресках пизанского Кампо Санто. И глубокое значение имеет мусульманское |
| + | предание, что матерь Иисуса явилась матери Магомета перед рождением пророка. И ладакские |
| + | замки возносятся в том же взлете, как орлиные гнезда Фаэнцы или Монте Фальконе. |
| + | |
| + | В Джидде – в этом преддверии Мекки – мусульмане особенно почитаемо берегут так |
| + | называемую могилу Евы. Тот же самый – Старого и Нового Завета – архангел Гавриил на горе |
| + | Хира указал Магомету начать проповедь. |
| + | |
| + | Могольские царицы носили почетный титул Мириам. Мириам, Мария, Матерь Мира. Уже давно |
| + | древнейшие забытые храмы славословят ожидание новых эпох. |
| + | |
| + | В древнем городе Киш недавно найден храм Матери Мира. |
| + | |
| + | Сарнат и Гайя, места личных подвигов Будды, лежат в развалинах. Являются лишь местом |
| + | паломничества. Так же как Иерусалим остается лишь местом паломничества. "Ибо сам Иисус |
| + | свидетельствовал, что пророк не имеет чести в своем отечестве". |
| + | |
| + | По преданию, Будда принял посвящение в присутствии высших. Место посвящения названо |
| + | "святейшая ступа", но где оно – не указано. Известны места подвигов Будды на Ганге. |
| + | Известны места рождения и смерти Учителя – в Непале. По некоторым указаниям, посвящение |
| + | совершилось еще севернее – за Гималаями, ибо на подвиг Будда пришел с севера. |
| + | |
| + | Но где же Иисус был до тридцатилетия? Кто знает эти благие прибежища? – Где эти Кориа |
| + | Мориа? Можно ли их повидать? |
| + | |
| + | Легендарная гора Меру по "Махабхарате" и такая же легендарная высота Шамбала в |
| + | буддийских учениях – обе лежали на севере и служили высотами посвящений. И нигде |
| + | подробно не сказано о таких местах высокого знания. |
| + | |
| + | Мудрые общения. Сверху виднее. Вместо мелких ссор отрицания история напоминает нам о |
| + | поистине международных связях. Указывается как на исторический факт, что монгольский |
| + | богдохан был спасен от болезни "явлением Николая". Монгольские хутухты, чье знание и |
| + | духовность считаются очень высокими, указывают это. Все полно знаками. Лишь не |
| + | просмотрите. Смотрите зорко и радостно, и подвижно. |
| + | |
| + | На кисти руки тибетской женщины странный синий знак. Присмотрелись. Оказалось, |
| + | нататуирован синий равноконечный крест. Спросили, откуда такой знак. Получилось |
| + | разъяснение, что знак нанесен тибетским врачом во время "очень опасного кашля" – |
| + | по-видимому, воспаления легких. Под таким знаком обычно тибетские врачи впрыскивают |
| + | лекарства. Этот знак был сделан личным врачом далай-ламы во время трехлетнего пребывания |
| + | в Дарджилинге. Этот знак – символ зарождения жизни и огня. |
| + | |
| + | По пророчеству ламы Царинпоче и нынешняя попытка овладеть Эверестом окончится лишь |
| + | потерями. Посмотрим, прав ли старый лама. |
| + | |
| + | Лама изумился желанию чужеземцев непременно подняться на вершину Эвереста. "Зачем |
| + | принимать столько трудов в земном теле? Не проще ли побывать там в духе?" Ламы легко |
| + | выделяют астральное тело, которому, конечно, любая высота не является препятствием. |
| + | |
| + | Из этого окна посылал верховный священник моления обеспокоенному китайцами Тибету. Три |
| + | года перед стеной Гималаев бодрствовал. Спать далай-лама обычно не ложится. На отдых |
| + | остается сидя, в молитвенном движении. |
| + | |
| + | Во времена старых иезуитских миссий, около трехсот лет тому назад, в Лхасе была |
| + | христианская часовня. Великие ламы посещали ее. Сейчас никто не помнит даже |
| + | приблизительного места ее. |
| + | |
| + | Лама жалуется на приезжих охотников. Пришли и убили много оленей. И теперь, когда лама |
| + | идет в лес, к нему приходит очень мало оленей. А он любит, чтобы к нему приходили |
| + | животные. Не "дикостью", но культурностью звучит эта жалоба. Напоминает сказ про старца |
| + | Авраамия, который пастушествовал за Уралом, и, когда обращался к Востоку, то и все овцы |
| + | в молчании обращались к восходу солнца. |
| + | |
| + | В буддийских монастырях был обычай запирать в библиотеку проигравшего в ученом споре. |
| + | Поучись еще. Отличный обычай. |
| + | |
| + | "Китайский амбань (губернатор), человек злой и распутный, добивался навестить |
| + | почитаемого святого игумена местного монастыря в Тибете, настойчиво и властно потребовал |
| + | свидания. Но когда вошел в приемную комнату, где был игумен, то на троне вместо святого |
| + | увидел обличье уродливой свиньи. И бежал в ужасе. Распутный человек, ворвавшись силою, |
| + | нашел облик, которого был достоин". Прекрасное напоминание всем насильникам. "В юже меру |
| + | мерите – возмерится и вам". |
| + | |
| + | Среднеазиатское предание говорит о таинственном подземном |
| + | народе агарти. Приближаясь ко входам в его благое царство, все живые |
| + | существа умолкают и благоговейно прерывают путь. Вспомним русское предание о |
| + | таинственной чуди, ушедшей под землю от преследования злых сил. |
| + | Священная легенда о подземном граде Китеже ведет в тот же тайник. |
| + | |
| + | Вся земля толкует о подземных городах, хранилищах, о храмах, ушедших под воду. И |
| + | русский, и нормандский крестьянин знает это одинаково твердо. Так же как житель пустынь |
| + | знает о сокровищах, иногда сверкающих из-под волн песков и снова – до времени – уходящих |
| + | под землю. К одному костру сходятся помнящие о положенных сроках. Не о суеверии, но о |
| + | знании говорим. О знании, выраженном в прекрасных символах. Зачем сочинять, когда |
| + | истинного так много, когда в Ла-Манше и сейчас виден город, "ушедший под воду". |
| + | |
| + | О подземных жилищах в области Лхасы и Кукунора говорят многие источники. Лама из |
| + | Монголии вспоминает предание: когда строили основание монастыря Гандана во времена |
| + | Учителя Дзон-Капа (XIV век), то заметили, что через щели скалы подымаются струи курений. |
| + | Пробили ход, и нашли пещеру, где неподвижно сидел старец. Дзон-Капа вывел его из |
| + | экстаза. Тот попросил чашку молока. Спросил, какое теперь учение на земле. И затем |
| + | исчез. Также указывается, что Потала, дворец далай-ламы, имеет скрытые помещения |
| + | большой древности. Конечно, проверить это случайным путешественникам не удалось. По |
| + | выражению лиц высоких лам ничего не поймете. Иным путем надо искать. |
| + | |
| + | Если так много лежит под землею, то как же многое лежит под молчанием! Наивно утверждать |
| + | по первому осторожному ответу. Опытный астролог уверяет, что он ничего не знает, так |
| + | что-то только слышал. Знающий пути ко многим древностям только что утверждал, что он и |
| + | не слышал о них. Да и как же иначе? Не предать бы. Самое горшее – предательство. И так |
| + | много предателей. Видим и настоящую преданность, а за нею и глубокую сохранность. |
| + | |
| + | Соломон явил такую преданность делу строения храма, что, даже испустив дух, остался |
| + | стоять на молитве, пока муравей не подточил его посох. Лишь бы не прервать, не повредить |
| + | работе строения. Пример стойкости и преданности. |
| + | |
| + | Осталось непонятым стремление Соломона к единому началу, приютившему все прочие |
| + | проявления знания. Покинутый Фатехпур-Сикри – около Агры – полон знаками Единого начала, |
| + | которое понял Акбар Великий, проповедуя Единый храм. Среди дворцового двора еще стоит |
| + | храм объединенной религии. Легкомысленные писатели изумляются, отчего на стенах этого |
| + | загадочного дома еще видны остатки столь разнородных изображений. Следы буддизма |
| + | перемешаны с индусскими и христианскими фрагментами. Единый светоч уже был проявляем в |
| + | жизни. |
| + | |
| + | "Премудр сердцем и могущ силою; кто восставал против Него и оставался в покое? Он |
| + | распростирает небеса и ходит по высотам моря. Сотворил Ас, Кесиль и Хима (Медведицу, |
| + | Орион и Плеяды), и тайники юга, делает великое, неиследимое и чудное без числа", – |
| + | восклицает Иов о Едином. Не туда ли ведут указания таинственных знаков вотана и сензара, |
| + | получаемых великими ламами? Спросили ламу: "Правда ли Праздник Общины приблизился?". Он |
| + | посмотрел и сказал: "Таковы предсказания". |
| + | |
| + | С 1924 года по тибетскому летоисчислению началась новая эра. Век считается не в сто лет, |
| + | а в шестьдесят. |
| + | |
| + | Слушаете чтение Бхагавадгиты. Слушаете возгласы буддийских служителей. Слушаете пение |
| + | клира. И разве не встает перед вами Единый Лик, Единая воля к счастью и радости, к |
| + | единению сознания? Ласкающий и покоряющий, и возвышающий, и |
| + | научающий АУМ. |
| + | |
| + | Не следует ли задуматься, отчего всюду – во всех Заветах – выявлено одно действенное |
| + | начало? Отчего проявление феноменов всегда сопровождается одним и тем же, необъяснимым |
| + | словами, но всегда ярким актом сознания? Писания говорят: "Возмутился духом". И без |
| + | этого чудесного "возмущения духа", без этого невидимого акта, никакие формулы не |
| + | действительны. Он осознал и озарился. Исполнился несокрушимым мужеством. |
| + | |
| + | Самые формулы часто поражают своею общечеловечностью. В них соединяются возгласы |
| + | мистерий с молитвами самых неожиданных культов, разделенных целыми эпохами, целыми |
| + | материками. Язык Матери Мира одинаков для всех колыбелей. |
| + | |
| + | "Аллилуйя, Аллилуйя, Аллилуйя" или "Аллелу, Аллелу, Аллелу" – заклинание древних |
| + | служений против демонов. От халдеев, вавилонян, через израильтян дошло оно до |
| + | христианства. Оно же известно у некоторых племен Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Простой человек, проводник, вдруг оборачивается на пути и спрашивает: "Ведь должны люди |
| + | наконец признать, что все едино и все равны? Ведь скоро придет Он, Кто соединит?". Так |
| + | мыслит и допрашивает простой и бедный человек среди синеющих холмов Сиккима. Из-за |
| + | ожиданий проводника слышится мощное признание Вивекананды: "Если бы я встретил на моем |
| + | пути Иисуса, я бы омыл кровью сердца моего Его ноги". Откровенно утверждал мужественный |
| + | Вивекананда; пытался идти близким путем языка сердца. Без отрицаний, лишь во всемогущем |
| + | обобщении и благом понимании. Хочется, чтобы священники Запада так же мыслили о Будде, |
| + | как просвещенные ламы говорят о Иисусе. Только в таком благостном понимании залог |
| + | будущего строительства. Все созидатели общины должны быть узнаны. |
| + | |
| + | Главное – поменьше невежественных отрицаний. |
| + | |
| + | С трудом удается достать растения, которыми питаются мускусные бараны. Но как донести |
| + | эту горную хвою до лаборатории? Ниже шести тысяч футов (1800 м) растения гибнут. |
| + | |
| + | Со стороны Бутана чаще всего наползают мохнатые сизые клубы тумана. Не только снеговой |
| + | хребет, но все предгорные ступени проваливаются в густую мглу. Трудно поверить скрытому |
| + | сверканию. Не начать ли отрицать самое существование Гималаев? Раз их не видно – значит, |
| + | их нет. Раз нам сейчас что-то невидимо – значит, оно и не существует. Так полагает |
| + | убожество. |
| + | |
| + | Горные пути сложны. Столько поворотов! Столько осыпей под копытами! Столько пересекающих |
| + | потоков и ручьев с мертвящей сыростью из-под зелено-синей листвы! Поистине, много змей |
| + | под цветами. И язык шорохов в листве непонятен. |
| + | |
| + | Рано зажигаются звезды. К востоку неугасно горит тройное светило Ориона. По всем учениям |
| + | проходит это поражающее созвездие. В архивах старых обсерваторий, надо думать, можно |
| + | найти многое о нем замечательное. Культ, окружающий некоторые созвездия, вроде Медведицы |
| + | и Ориона, поражает своей распространенностью. |
| + | |
| + | Шаманская мудрость поклоняется им. Не случайно Иов перечисляет именно их как акт высшего |
| + | достижения. Блестки разбросаны всюду. В последнем выпуске журнала Лондонского Азиатского |
| + | общества многозначительна неожиданная заметка: "Император Бабур в начале своих мемуаров |
| + | говорит: "В окрестностях Баракуха находится мечеть, называемая Джауза Маджид". Истинное |
| + | значение этого названия есть "Дом Ориона". Джауза есть имя Ориона". С каким же древним |
| + | культом слилась мечеть, указанная Бабуром, теперь, вероятно, смытая песками великих |
| + | пустынь? Неустанно притягивает Орион глаз человеческий. Опять говорят астрономические |
| + | бюллетени о непонятных розовых лучах, вспыхнувших в этом созвездии. Созвездие Ориона |
| + | включает знаки "Три Мага". В древних учениях значение Ориона приравнивалось значению |
| + | Атласа, державшего ношу мира. Звезда Востока! |
| + | |
| + | Только на Востоке ощущаете жизненный смысл астрологии в ее научном понимании. |
| + | Обсерватории в Джайпуре и в Дели покоряют свей фантастической убедительностью. |
| + | |
| + | Воздух чист. Маленькие лепча – сиккимские кули – несут на спине огромные камни в гору. К |
| + | неведомому строению. Головы их так низко нагнулись, что не рассмотрите лица из-за платка |
| + | и металлических колец и цепочек. Донесут ли? Можно ли перегрузить четырехфутовое тело |
| + | непомерной тягостью камня? Но вместо скрежета – раздается смех из– под согнутой спины. |
| + | Много смеха слышится в Сиккиме. Чем дальше к Тибету – тем говорливее люди. И поют чаще, |
| + | и провожают шуткой. Воздух тут лучше. |
| + | |
| + | Сардар называется начальник каравана. Плотно сидит в лиловом кафтане |
| + | на белой горной лошадке. Много здесь белых коней. |
| + | |
| + | Далеки еще пещеры Канченджанги, где хранились сокровища. В одной из пещер находится |
| + | статуя Падма Самбхавы (Учитель Тибета), а за нею виднеется каменная дверь – никем |
| + | никогда не открытая. А они говорят: "Ничего сокрытого не осталось!" |
| + | |
| + | "Сознание человеческое часто – как хвост собачий. Уж если свернулся калачиком – как его |
| + | ни выпрямляй, а он все скрутиться норовит". Так сказали древние китайцы. |
| + | |
| + | Но ведомо также, как всецело преображается сознание лишь одним прикосновением. |
| + | |
| + | "Отчего вы не говорите подробно о том, что знаете? Все будто жемчуг сыплете или вехи |
| + | расставляете". По вехам сами весь путь пройдете. Сами – ногами человеческими. Жемчуг |
| + | сами подберете себе по росту. Руками переберете жемчужины. Своими руками разовьете |
| + | динамику. "Отдадите", излучите свою волю. |
| + | |
| + | Иначе материя опять не выльется "в песне труда немолчного". Таким путем отделится пустое |
| + | любопытство от истинного стремления. Один "современный мудрец" предлагал основать |
| + | институт, где бы каждый пришедший с улицы мог немедленно удостовериться в феноменах. |
| + | "Мудрец" забыл предложить этим уличным приходящим хоть руки вымыть для опыта. Душ |
| + | очищения сознания тоже был бы далеко не излишен. Есть пути, которые должны быть пройдены |
| + | с чистыми руками и своею волею. |
| + | |
| + | И если через оболочку вещей каждого дня вам удастся рассмотреть вершины космоса – какой |
| + | новый, чудесный, неисчерпаемый аспект примет мир для освобожденного глаза. Древняя |
| + | медицина утверждает, что смех очень полезен для очистки щитовидных желез. Как же должна |
| + | быть полезна улыбка для мозга! И дрожащее заклятие страха превратится в смелый клич |
| + | радости. |
| + | |
| + | **ТАШИДИНГ** |
| + | |
| + | Разноцветная толпа фигур ада попирается мощными ногами Белых Держателей. Красные и |
| + | зеленые "хранители входов" многоруко, в страшном оскале зубов грозят нарушителям. |
| + | Взрывно – кудрявятся золотые языки стихийного пламени. Мерцают тусклоцветные ауры |
| + | сияний... |
| + | |
| + | Почтительно-холодновато или писарски-научно рассматриваем тибетские и непальские |
| + | знамена-картины в Британском музее, или в Музее Гимэ в Париже, или в Фильдс Музее в |
| + | Чикаго. Совсем иначе подходите вы к тем же картинам на месте. И они говорят вам совсем |
| + | иное. Каждое движение руки Будды полно живого значения для здешнего мира. Добрые и злые |
| + | сущности с их бесчисленными символами из орнамента преображаются в живущий эпос. |
| + | Оправлены образы поражающей гармонией тонов. Лучше старинная работа, но и новые картины |
| + | бывают отличны. |
| + | |
| + | Предскажем этим изображениям большое будущее, так же как двадцать лет назад было указано |
| + | грядущее значение русских икон. |
| + | |
| + | Было оказано справедливое внимание китайскому и японскому искусству. Сложная литература |
| + | кристаллизовала это тонкое художество. Но после изучения классического Египта, после |
| + | японской зоркости, после романтического Китая и после узорчатости персидской и |
| + | могольской миниатюры, теперь появился новый предмет изучения и любования. Подходит |
| + | среднеазиатское искусство. В пламенной фантастике, в величавости тонкой формы, в |
| + | напряженной сложной гамме тонов явлено совершенно особое яркое творчество. Своим |
| + | спокойным выражением это искусство отвечает тайне колыбели человечества. Образует собою |
| + | Азию, к которой вовремя направлены вопросы и поиски. |
| + | |
| + | Только бы постучаться в двери этой красоты без угроз, без оружия, без грабежа. С полною |
| + | готовностью собрать жемчуг глубочайших, анонимных достижений. И без внешне научного |
| + | лицемерия, и без подкупного предательства. |
| + | |
| + | Изучать жизнь соловья, прежде всего убив его, не есть ли это варварство? |
| + | |
| + | Четко запомнились некоторые вещи из находок Козлова в Хара-Хото, в Монголии. |
| + | Вспоминается чудесное изображение женской головы. Если такие люди жили в замолкших |
| + | городах пустынь, то как далеки были эти места от дикости. |
| + | |
| + | Мудро, мудро, что пустыни успели сохранить для человечества новые сокровища. И не только |
| + | сокровища вещей... |
| + | |
| + | Не только о мечах татарских надо вспоминать, представляя жизнь Средней Азии. Там шатер |
| + | всех путников и искателей. Духовность Монголии и теперь считается высокой. Даже к |
| + | ханским ставкам приглашались лучшие художники. |
| + | |
| + | Помню, как бедствовал один молодой доктор, по службе посланный в Ургу, в Монголию. |
| + | Бедный, он не знал, как и что искать. Если бы молодежь знала, какие сокровища для нее |
| + | уже приготовлены и лежат на краю дороги неподнятыми! Иногда только взять остается. |
| + | |
| + | Пастушонок нашел три пуда золота в скифских предметах, ибо заинтересовался искоркой |
| + | металла, блеснувшей в откосе смытого дождями холма. Сколько таких искр сверкают, но |
| + | часто глаза полны лени. |
| + | |
| + | Благословенный Майтрейя – Мессия всегда изображается в венце, в большом образе. В |
| + | Ташилунпо (монастырь таши-ламы) три года назад поставлено гигантское изображение |
| + | Майтрейи – носителя нового века мировой Общины. Эту идею принес наступающий век |
| + | тибетского летосчисления. |
| + | |
| + | Во время служения в храмах разносят дымящийся тибетский чай. Есть идея Грааля в этом |
| + | наполнении сосудов перед Ликом Благословенным. Не оставьте сосуд пустым – это противно |
| + | обычаю Востока! И потом эти гигантские трубы, как глас грозы с громом, с призывом к |
| + | будущему. И согбенные спины в пурпурных плащах мыслят о будущем. Сто восемь огней |
| + | пламенным полем переливаются под ликом Мечты Мира. |
| + | |
| + | В особом помещении хранятся маски хранителей. Неужели страшные личины могут |
| + | символизировать путь блага? Они не символы блага, но образы земных сил стихийных. И |
| + | небо, и земля. |
| + | |
| + | Даже физический мир учения тантры, опустившийся в современном понимании, должен быть |
| + | очувствован возвышенно. Не мог учитель Падма Самбхава явить лишь низменное учение. |
| + | |
| + | Смотрю на старую картину из монастыря Далинга. Деяния Учителя Падма Самбхавы. Все его |
| + | магические силы изображены в действии. Вот учитель в виде черноголового ламы с |
| + | Соломоновой звездой на головном уборе поражает дракона. Вот учитель низводит дождь; вот |
| + | спасает утопающего; пленяет мелких злобных духов; безоружно покоряет зверей и магическим |
| + | кинжалом поражает тигра, предварительно накрыв ему голову священным треугольником. Вот |
| + | учитель обезвреживает змей; вот он заклинает бурный поток и посылает дождь. Вот он |
| + | бесстрашно беседует с гигантским горным духом. Вот учитель летит превыше всех гор. Вот |
| + | из убежища пещеры он спешит на помощь миру. И, наконец, в кругу бедной семьи молится о |
| + | счастливом плавании отсутствующего домохозяина. Как бы ни было теперь затемнено его |
| + | учение, но жизненность его изображена достаточно. |
| + | |
| + | Или другая старинная картина – "Рай Падма Самбхавы". Учитель сидит в храме, окруженный |
| + | праведными. Храм стоит на горе, отделенной от земного мира голубою рекою. Через реку |
| + | протянуты белые хадаки, и по ним самоотверженные путники совершают переход ко храму. |
| + | Опять ясная картина озаренного восхождения. |
| + | |
| + | Конечно, толкователи засорили и это явление, как перегружены ложной догмой и все прочие |
| + | религии. Конечно, учитель Дзон-Капа нам еще ближе. Он повысился за пределы магии. Он |
| + | запретил монахам проявлять магические силы. Его учение – Желтые ламы – представляется |
| + | менее испорченным. |
| + | |
| + | Под Новый год, четвертого февраля, после заката вспыхивают огни в монастырях по холмам. |
| + | И звон гонгов и дальние барабаны звучат... Утром – танцы. |
| + | |
| + | Перед Новым годом уничтожают злых сущностей – заклинаниями, танцами. В оленьем танце |
| + | разрубается фигура злой сущности, и части ее разбрасываются. И важно ходит по кругу |
| + | Покровитель Учения, взмахивая мечом. И кружатся, размахивая крыльями широких рукавов, |
| + | черноголовые ламы. И музыканты в желтых высоких шапках выступают, как берендеи в |
| + | "Снегурочке". И орлы черкают по воздуху над узорными углами храма. И на уступах холма |
| + | пестреют собравшиеся толпы. |
| + | |
| + | И самые танцы в день Нового года со страшными символами злых сущностей и скелетов |
| + | приобретают жизненное значение. И как далеко впечатление страшных масок на солнечном |
| + | фоне Гималаев от давящей черноты углов музеев, где такие атрибуты часто составлены, |
| + | пугая посетителей видом условного ада. Конечно, весь этот ад и создан для слаборазвитых |
| + | душ. Много фантазии положено на изощрение адских обличий. |
| + | |
| + | В монастыре "красных шапок" впечатление не так светло. Там, где ближе Благословенный |
| + | Майтрейя, там звучнее и светлее движения и мощнее трубные гласы. В красных монастырях |
| + | Падма Самбхавы символистика более условно земная. Действо начинается простою "мистериею" |
| + | суда над умершим. Приходит важный владыка ада со своими помощниками. Зверообразные |
| + | служители влекут черную душу умершего злодея: взвешивают преступления. Чаша проступков |
| + | перевешивает, и злодея тут же ввергают в кипящей котел. То же происходит с душою |
| + | преступницы. |
| + | |
| + | Но вот ведут святого – в одеянии ламы. Белый шарф украшает его. Конечно, суд милостив, и |
| + | три вестника радости ведут вознесенного в рай. |
| + | |
| + | Пятнадцать лет назад умер замечательный лама, пришедший из Монголии. Астрологически он |
| + | установил ряд важных событий будущего. Видели его изображение в типе русского схимника. |
| + | Сильный лик, непобедимо тверды скулы, остро зорки глаза. "Во время ухода этого сильного |
| + | духа радуга играла над основанным им монастырем". У него были редкие книги. |
| + | |
| + | Книги доставать трудно. Надо посылать доверенное лицо в далекий путь. Существуют |
| + | замечательные книги. Есть книга одного таши-ламы о посещении им священной Шамбалы. |
| + | Имеются сборники символических притч, имеется трактат о переселении душ. Эти не |
| + | переведены. |
| + | |
| + | Учения, принесенные из Шамбалы, попадаются и в трудах ученых Европы. На кладбище |
| + | Дарджилинга погребен загадочный человек, венгр родом, живший в начале XIX столетия. |
| + | Пешком он прошел из Венгрии в Тибет и оставался много лет в неизвестных монастырях. В |
| + | тридцатых годах прошлого века Чома де Кёрёш скончался. В трудах своих он указывает |
| + | учение из Шамбалы, установившее следующую за Буддою иерархию. Пришел этот ученый из |
| + | Венгрии – характерно. Загадочна его деятельность. |
| + | |
| + | Еще искра о Шамбале. Известный таши-лама часто впадал в экстаз во время бесед с |
| + | учениками. Иногда же и вовсе как бы исчезал, переносясь в святилище Шамбалы. Эти экстазы |
| + | живо переносят во времена бесед Св. Иоанна Делакруа со Св. Терезою, когда оба блаженные |
| + | собеседника, придя в восторг, поднимались к потолку комнаты. |
| + | |
| + | Среди благих действий припоминаются и искры возмущения. Поноситель приблизился к Будде, |
| + | но Благословенный так возмутился, что искра молнии поразила дерзкого. Конечно, |
| + | Благословенный остановил обратный удар и вернул к жизни нечестивца. Но тот уже был так |
| + | потрясен случившимся, что забыл все свои приготовления нападения. Искры обратного удара. |
| + | |
| + | Известен случай, когда Сенген-лама, перед казнью в Лхасе, указал, что он скоро снова |
| + | воплотится на земле. И действительно, очень скоро в Китайском Туркестане родился мальчик |
| + | с тем же редким характерным физическим недостатком на колене, каким отличался покойный |
| + | лама. Теперь этому монгольскому князю уже более двадцати лет. У нас был сын слуги |
| + | покойного ламы, ездивший по поручению отца к молодому князю. |
| + | |
| + | Кому ведома верховая езда по Кавказу или по каньонам Аризоны и Колорадо, тот знает, как |
| + | взбираться по кручам холмов Сиккима. Только вместо красочной трагедии американских чудес |
| + | вы имеете восходящий сад, взращенный таинственным подъемом возвышенного учения. И сейчас |
| + | по неведомы пещерам сидят отшельники и на струнах земли творят легенду жизни неба. |
| + | |
| + | Кому ведомы подходы к старым монастырям и городищам Руси с их цветущими холмами и пряно |
| + | пахучим бором – тот поймет, как чувствуются подходы к монастырям Сиккима. Всегда твержу: |
| + | если хотите увидеть прекрасное место, спросите, которое место здесь самое древнее. Умели |
| + | эти незапамятные люди выбирать самые лучшие места. |
| + | |
| + | Каждый перевал увенчан красивым мендангом с колесами жизни, с рельефами молитв и с |
| + | нишами седалищ перед ликом зовущих далей. Здесь медитируют ламы и путники. Здесь |
| + | развеваются знамена. Здесь каждый ездок приостановит коня. |
| + | |
| + | С перевалов опять окунаетесь в уходящие холмы. Убегают ребра разноцветных бугров, точно |
| + | спины барсов, тигров и волков. |
| + | |
| + | После холмов опять сказки леса. Зеленые лесовики и чудища загораживают путь. Спутались |
| + | зеленые нити. Змеи переплели стволы. Притаились мшистые тигры и леопарды. Заколдованный |
| + | мир. |
| + | |
| + | Самые причудливые холмы и скалы образуют как бы Священную Чашу – обширную долину. |
| + | Посередине долины неприступно стоит опоясанная двумя реками гора Белый |
| + | Камень, увенчанная монастырем Ташидинг, что значит "долина, открытая небу". Древнее |
| + | место. Попробуйте обыскать бесчисленные морщины и впадины всех скал. Попробуйте найти |
| + | сокровища, собранные у монастыря. И чудесный камень исполнения всех желаний, и |
| + | бессмертную амриту, и сто изображений Будды, и все священные, временно сокрытые книги, и |
| + | все другое, указанное в древней рукописной книге "Путешествие по Сиккиму". |
| + | |
| + | Очень трудны подступы к Ташидингу. Лишь недавно непроходимые тропы обратились в крутые |
| + | пешеходные тропинки. Поистине, путь духа должен быть пройден ногами человеческими! |
| + | |
| + | Один переход через висячий бамбуковый мост не легок. Гремит и мчится под ним горная |
| + | река, неся ледяной поток с Канченджанги. И выше моста по отвесным склонам много раз |
| + | остановитесь: дойду ли? Много дыхания надо набрать, чтобы одолеть вековую гору. |
| + | |
| + | На верхнем склоне нам устроена почетная встреча от землевладельцев. Брага, сахарный |
| + | тростник и танжерины под плетеным навесом, украшенным желтыми букетами. Дальше гремят |
| + | барабаны и звенят серебряные гонги. Встреча от монастыря. На последнем уступе встречают |
| + | рожочники и трубы. |
| + | |
| + | Среди рядов пестрой толпы идете к старому месту. За воротами монастыря встречают нас |
| + | ламы в пурпурных одеждах. Впереди их чудесный старик – настоятель монастыря. Точно |
| + | тонкое резное изображение XV века. Так идете до раскинутых бирюзовых палаток, среди леса |
| + | ступ и разноцветных знамен, среди веселых верениц огней. |
| + | |
| + | В первое полнолуние после Нового года (было 20 февраля) в Ташидинге годовой праздник. |
| + | Происходит чудо наполнения чаши. |
| + | |
| + | С давних времен, более восьми поколений, заповедано это чудо. Из указанного места горной |
| + | реки берется небольшой сосуд воды и вливается в старинную деревянную чашу. В присутствии |
| + | свидетелей, представителей махараджи Сиккима, чашу закрывают плотно и запечатывают. |
| + | Через год в то же полнолуние, на восходе солнца чашу торжественно вскрывают и измеряют |
| + | количество воды. Иногда вода уменьшается, но иногда и сильно увеличивается. В год |
| + | великой войны вода в три раза увеличилась, что и означало войну. Нынче вода вдвое |
| + | уменьшилась, что значит голод и беспорядки. |
| + | |
| + | Это недобрый знак увеличился еще другим знамением. Двадцатого февраля было полное |
| + | затмение. Небывалый знак, недобрый. |
| + | |
| + | Загудели трубы, пронзительно завыли свистки, народ в костюмах из "Снегурочки" устремился |
| + | к большой ступе. Громкий хор пошел толпой вокруг. Многие распростерлись ниц на земле. |
| + | Гулко загремели барабаны лам. Только что ясное лунное небо зачернело. Золотые огни |
| + | приношений засверкали, как по черному бархату. Полное затмение! Демон Раху похитил луну! |
| + | Такого еще не бывало в день чуда Ташидинга. |
| + | |
| + | Сказал асура Раху солнцу: "Так как ты обманом унес рашиану, да проглочу я тебя, бог |
| + | солнца, в то время когда тридцатого числа ты соединишь узлы орбиты!". И еще произнес |
| + | Раху пророческое пожелание: "В воздаяние за то, что ты, луна, узнав меня, указала меня |
| + | разрубить, да схвачу и пожру я тебя пятнадцатого числа, во время полнолуния!". И |
| + | внимательно следят люди за лунными и солнечными затмениями, и бьют в барабаны, и |
| + | угрожают Раху. |
| + | |
| + | Но был и один добрый знак. На восходе солнца старший лама видел, как по вершинам гор |
| + | загорелись гирлянды огоньков. |
| + | |
| + | Когда луна была возвращена миру, вокруг главной ступы пошли танцы. Сущий русский |
| + | хоровод. И песни, тоже словно русские. Содержание их духовное. "В монастыре живет наш |
| + | Владыко Будда. Ему несем наше приношение". Так начинается одна песня. Или: "Велика |
| + | священная книга, но я найду ей место у моего сердца". Или: "Вспоминаю я священный |
| + | монастырь". |
| + | |
| + | В белом кафтане подходит художник, делавший роспись местного храма. Сговорились, что он |
| + | пойдет с нами и будет писать Благословенного Майтрейю. Покажет технику местного |
| + | живописания. |
| + | |
| + | Красные, желтые, белые, лиловые кафтаны; алые, зеленые, белые женские рукава. |
| + | Остроконечные шапки с опушками. Говор, пение, две ночи хождения вокруг ступы. |
| + | |
| + | Прикладываются к камню, на котором благословлял сие место Учитель Падма Самбхава. |
| + | Обходят другой камень с отпечатком ступни Учителя и отпечатком копыт и звериных лап. И |
| + | опять хоры вокруг ступы исполнения всех желаний. |
| + | |
| + | Входя во храм, идете по левую руку до стены алтаря. В храмах желтой секты в середине |
| + | алтарной стены статуя Будды или теперь даже Майтреий Будды. В красной секте посередине |
| + | Падма Самбхава, а Будда по правую руку. Иногда нижний храм посвящен Падма Самбхаве, а |
| + | верхний Будде, такое размещение очень соответствует внутреннему смыслу учений. Будда – |
| + | небо, Падма Самбхава – земля. По боковым местам изображения Авалокитешвары – духовный |
| + | коллектив, многоглавый и многорукий, – как наша русская Сторучица, а также статуи |
| + | "Держателей молний", основателей монастырей, и шестнадцать Архатов, сидящих в резных |
| + | пещерах. На алтаре – светильники и всякие приношения, семь чаш с водой, блюдце риса и |
| + | кадильницы курений, ковчег реликвий. |
| + | |
| + | Стены покрыты росписью. Чаще всего одна стена – алтарная. При входе – изображения |
| + | хранителей четырех стран света. В каждом храме найдется изображение семи сокровищ, |
| + | предлагаемых человечеству; среди них на белом коне изображение чудесного камня. |
| + | |
| + | В особом помещении хранятся священные книги. Общая мечта монастырей увеличить число |
| + | книг. Но книги дороги. Священный сборник – до тысячи рупий. |
| + | |
| + | Особо трогательно служение тысячи огней под вечер. Низкий храм с расписными колоннами и |
| + | балясинами. Посередине длинный стол, уставленный огнями. Вдоль стен тоже вереница огней, |
| + | и все это море огоньков ласково колышется и мерцает, подернутое облачком курений |
| + | сандала, дикой мяты и других благовоний, сожигаемых в кадильницах. Стройно, хорошо пели |
| + | во время этого служения. |
| + | |
| + | По всем тропинкам вьются караваны богомольцев. Высокие седла покрыты яркими тканями. |
| + | Совсем дикие лошадки несут пузатую поклажу. Все толпится. Ищут место ночевки. Воздвигают |
| + | новые знамена в память живых, но чаще умерших. Толпа собралась до двенадцати сотен – но |
| + | мирная, добрая толпа. |
| + | |
| + | На ранней заре, задолго до восхода, когда снега на горах еще мутно янтарны, – лагерь уже |
| + | шевелится. Ползет и ширится неясное гудение. Ранние молитвы мешаются с ударами копыт |
| + | коней и мулов. |
| + | |
| + | Утром к нашим шатрам идет шествие. Сам старший лама возглавляет несение даров. За ним, |
| + | высоко поднятые, следуют подносы с рисом, с ребрами барана, с сахарным тростником, с |
| + | брагой и плодами. Сам лама передает приношение в нашу походную кухню. |
| + | |
| + | Посреди ступ раскинулись шатры богомольцев. Вот под зеленым навесом сидят ламы из |
| + | Тибета. Женщины им переворачивают длинные страницы молитвенников. Под ручные барабаны и |
| + | гонги ламы поют тантрическую песнь. Где же Стравинский, Стоковский, Прокофьев, где же |
| + | Завадский, чтобы изобразить мощный лад твердых призывов? И как тонко бело-золотое лицо у |
| + | той, которая переворачивает страницы перед певцами. |
| + | |
| + | Недалеко группа из Непала бьет в такт ладонями и припевает. Посреди них женщина с |
| + | застывшим лицом экстатически танцует танец шерпов, полный тонких движений волхований. |
| + | Иногда она трепещет руками, как птица, и издает какое-то птичье рокотанье. Очень |
| + | замечательно. |
| + | |
| + | Тут же странники из Бутана молятся под красным навесом. Перед раздачей целебной воды |
| + | вокруг ступ идет священный ход. Впереди трубачи в высоких красных шапках; за ними ламы в |
| + | тиарах, следом – длинный ряд священных книг. |
| + | |
| + | На закате в палатке старший лама тихо говорит о святынях Сиккима, о "чудесах", слышанных |
| + | и им самим виденных. То шум роя невидимых пчел, то пенье и небесная музыка, то явление |
| + | образов священных. При нашем отъезде лама указал два добрых знака. По пути три полных |
| + | бамбуковых водоноса и два дровосека с полными вязанками дров – навстречу. |
| + | |
| + | **ДАЛАЙ-ПХО-БРАНГ** |
| + | |
| + | Ташидинг принадлежит к приходу большого монастыря Пемайанцзе в дне пути. Тоже на |
| + | вершине. Пемайанцзе стоит властно. Недавно перестроен, но сделано подновление с чутьем. |
| + | И даже новейшая живопись доставляет радость своей тонкой замысловатой декорацией. И |
| + | резьба наличников сказочна. И высокие пороги тяжелых дверей переносят в древние |
| + | деревянные храмы России. И сановиты главные ламы. И торжественны пурпурные одежды. И |
| + | красные тиары на головах полны достоинства. Но все-таки еще больше вспоминается |
| + | восьмидесятилетний настоятель Ташидинга. И все-то он борется, и заботится, и старается |
| + | улучшить строение свое. И хозяйственный глаз его везде проникает. |
| + | |
| + | За воротами Пемайанцзе стоят стражи трехсотлетних деревьев. Сказочный лес Берендея. А |
| + | уличка домов лам, как берендейская слобода, раскрашена и оснащена крылечками цветными и |
| + | лесенками. |
| + | |
| + | Вот "Небесная Священная Гора", и на вершине ее блестит горное озерко. Там маленький |
| + | храм, основанный на месте жития основателя красной секты в Сиккиме. Из Дубди основатель |
| + | перешел на Святое озеро, а оттуда в древний Санга Челлинг. |
| + | |
| + | Четыре древнейших монастыря Сиккима: Дубди, Санга Челлинг, Далинг и Роблинг. И значение |
| + | названий отличное: "Место размышления", "Остров тайного учения", "Остров молнии", |
| + | "Остров счастливого устремления". |
| + | |
| + | Славный монастырь Санга Челлинг. Незабываем Далинг бело-синим, словно фарфоровым, входом |
| + | среди бамбуковой рощи. Там бережно у алтаря хранится запечатанный, невскрываемый ящик с |
| + | реликвиями основателя храма. Знамена – золотые по черному фону. В Санга Челлинге нет |
| + | реликвий, но зато там камень, освященный благословением основателя. Когда чиста жизнь |
| + | монастыря, прочен и камень. Всякая грязь жизни заставляет камень трескаться. |
| + | |
| + | Вот они, мои милые новгородские и ярославские дверки. Вот она, прекрасная фресковая |
| + | живопись. Вот они, цветные орнаменты, обвившие все наличники оконцев и дверей. Вот те же |
| + | согбенные спины богомольцев, преданных вере. И огни прилежных приношений. И наши кули |
| + | засвечают огонек. Истинная лепта вдовицы. А над ними властно возвышается "Держатель |
| + | молний". |
| + | |
| + | В Пемайанцзе учитель Падма Самбхава не был, но в монастыре хранятся вещи, принадлежавшие |
| + | основателю религии. Вещи запечатаны, но изредка показываются. Одеяние, головные уборы, |
| + | четки, колокольчики чудного звона, два магических кинжала и небольшое чудесное |
| + | изображение Будды. |
| + | |
| + | И трубы громче в Пемайанцзе, и драконы-охранители страшнее, и влияние монастыря больше, |
| + | и развалины дворца махараджи вблизи. Первый махараджа был по-библейски избран на царство |
| + | главою религии. Но фигуры Майтрейи нет в большом монастыре. |
| + | |
| + | Некоторые одинокие храмы с единым огоньком, обвеянные персиковым, розовым цветом и |
| + | усыпанные орхидеями и дикими пионами, еще ближе ведут по стопам простого постижения |
| + | Учения. |
| + | |
| + | Из леса выходит крестьянин, и голова его украшена белыми цветами. Где же это возможно? |
| + | Только в Сиккиме. |
| + | |
| + | Бедны ли сиккимцы? Но там, где нет богатства, там нет и бедности. Просто живут люди. На |
| + | холмах среди цветущих деревьев стоят мирные домики. Сквозь цветные ветки горят яркие |
| + | звезды и сверкают снежные хребты. Люди носят овощи, люди пасут скот, люди приветливо |
| + | улыбаются. Со сказочной музыкой ходят по крутым тропинкам в свадебных шествиях. Зная о |
| + | перевоплощениях, спокойно сжигают прах тел. И поют. Заметьте, часто поют. |
| + | |
| + | Правда, можно петь под навесом из разных цветов и растений. Орхидеи, как цветные глаза, |
| + | прилепились ко стволам деревьев-великанов. Розовые, пурпурные и желтые букеты усыпают |
| + | путь веселыми искрами. И не простые растения, много среди них издревле лечебных. |
| + | |
| + | Полная даров ждет природа. Придите излечиться. Шатура, парура, |
| + | оррура – три самых главных плода против простуды, кашля и |
| + | лихорадки. Шарура – как желтая |
| + | вишня, парура – как зеленый |
| + | каштан, оррура – зелено-желтое яблочко. Все терпки и |
| + | полны танина. Вот красная кора аку омбо для |
| + | исцеления ран. Как гигантский сухой боб серги |
| + | пруба – от лихорадки. Шута – сухой |
| + | горький корень против опухоли и для горла. Бассак – |
| + | коричневый порошок от простуды. Красный |
| + | стебель цо поставляет маженту; горькая на |
| + | вкус пурма – для курений. Варево из |
| + | корней берекуро – против женских болезней. |
| + | Цветы дангеро – для желудка, так же как и цветы |
| + | красного рододендрона; лист дисро – для дезинфекции |
| + | ран. Мемшинг пати – священное растение в Непале, им |
| + | украшают голову на торжествах. Без конца полезных растений, ждущих лучшего применения и |
| + | изучения. |
| + | |
| + | Листы травы ауа дути "размягчают" камни, так же как |
| + | и снежные лягушки в Гималаях. Потому, если видите на камне отпечаток копыта оленя или |
| + | лапы зверя, значит, они или ели, или касались чудесной травы. Еще один поворот к |
| + | легенде. Около Фалюта на путях к Канченджанге растет драгоценное растение – черный |
| + | аконит. Цветок его светится ночью. По этому свету и отыскивают это редкое растение. |
| + | Легенда русского Жар-цвета, волшебного цветка исполнения всех желаний, ведет не к |
| + | предрассудку, а в тот же родник, где скрыто еще так многое. |
| + | |
| + | Перед нашими воротами оказался странный дар. Ветка пихты, рододендрона и еще какого-то |
| + | растения лежали, обращенные листьями к нашему дому, прикрытые плоским камнем. Это |
| + | сунниум, заклятие. Человек, поднявший это приношение, получает на себя то, что положено |
| + | заклятием. Или худое, или хорошее, или болезнь, или горе, или радость. Много дней лежал |
| + | этот сунниум, и даже лошади как-то не касались его. Такое же заклятие видели мы в |
| + | предместии Джайпура. Там посреди улицы в плоской корзине лежала печень барана, цветы и |
| + | три серебряных рупии. Никто не дотронулся до них. Эти заклятия очень древнего |
| + | происхождения. Инвольтация черных магов всегда говорит о заклятых предметах. |
| + | |
| + | Также всюду известны легенды о случайном посещении охраненных мест, причем болтливость |
| + | вызывает немоту или даже смерть. Так, говорят, что |
| + | один шикари (охотник) в Ассаме случайно дошел и |
| + | видел тайны священного места, но пытался рассказать об этом и потому онемел. |
| + | |
| + | По берегу моря шагает палка. Одна шагает, к верху ее привязан зажженный трут. Это |
| + | колдуны Малабарского берега посылают заклятие поджечь дом врага. Доктор Джонс из |
| + | Калькутты пытался догнать такую палку, но она "ушла" быстрее его. |
| + | |
| + | Легенда около Монголии. "Скончалась почитаемая мать, и сын хотел, чтобы высокий лама, |
| + | обладающий высшими силами, совершил по ней службы. Но такого ламы не нашлось. Сын в |
| + | момент смерти собрал дух умиравшей в сандаловый коробок и крепко обмотал это хранилище, |
| + | а сам пригласил лучших лам из Тибета. Ламы сосредоточились, над коробком. И вот один из |
| + | них изменился в лице. Сперва покраснел, затем посинел. И у всех на глазах коробок лопнул |
| + | и разлетелся вдребезги. Этот лама мог освободить дух и потому мог совершить служения". |
| + | |
| + | Много говорят. Трудно отличить магические приемы от символов. |
| + | |
| + | Все знают. Обо всем слышали. Обо всем могут толковать и припоминать в сумерках: |
| + | нам-иг (небесные письма) – письма и священные книги, упадающие с неба; |
| + | кольца, меняющие цвет серебра или бирюзы в знак предостережения или |
| + | предвещания; зи – камень-буса, посылаемый с неба |
| + | поддержать здоровье. Нахождение предметов, после исчезающих. Все это знают. |
| + | |
| + | Женщина была очень набожна и мечтала получить изображение Будды. Работая утром в саду, |
| + | среди цветов она увидела изображение и принесла в божницу, но скоро забыла его, и Будда |
| + | исчез из божницы. Женщина нашла с саду крутящийся сверкающий камень. Положила его в |
| + | сундук и забыла. Камень тогда исчез. Всякое небрежение вызывает уход посланного счастья. |
| + | |
| + | Записывайте не то, что прочтут из книг, а то, что расскажут, ибо эти мысли живут. Не по |
| + | книге, но по мысли будете судить о жизни. |
| + | |
| + | В сумерках при загорающихся звездах, в лиловом сиянии тумана звучит тихий рассказ ламы о |
| + | "Владыке Мира", о Его мощи, о Его действии и мудрости, о Его воинстве в котором каждый |
| + | воин будет наделен какою-либо необычной силою. О сроках нового века общины. |
| + | |
| + | Предание из старой тибетской книги. Под символическими именами названы там передвижения |
| + | далай-ламы и таши-ламы, уже исполнившиеся. Описаны особые физические приметы правителей, |
| + | при которых страна подпадет под обезьян. Но затем оправится, и тогда придет Некто очень |
| + | большой. Его прихода срок можно считать через двенадцать лет. Это выйдет 1936 год. |
| + | |
| + | Когда пришло время Благословенному Будде покинуть эту землю, просили его четыре владыки |
| + | Дхармапала оставить людям его изображение. Благословенный дал согласие и указал лучшего |
| + | художника. Но не смог художник снять точные промеры; ибо дрожала рука его, приближаясь к |
| + | Благословенному. Тогда Будда сказал: "Я стану у воды. Ты сними промеры с отражения". |
| + | Смог художник это сделать и таким путем произошли четыре изображения, отлитые из |
| + | священного состава семи металлов. Два из них сейчас в Лхасе, а два пока сокрыты до |
| + | времени. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетский владыка женился на китайской и непальской принцессах, чтобы за ними привлечь в |
| + | Тибет два священных изображения Будды. |
| + | |
| + | Через тысячу двести лет после Будды Учитель Падма Самбхава приблизил к земным путям |
| + | учение Благословенного. При рождении Падма Самбхавы все небо светилось и пастухи видели |
| + | чудесные знаки. Восьмилетний Учитель показался миру в цветке лотоса. Падма Самбхава не |
| + | умер, но ушел, чтобы научить новые страны. Без его ухода миру грозила бы опасность. |
| + | |
| + | В пещере Кандро Сампо, недалеко от Ташидинга, около горячих ключей жил сам Падма |
| + | Самбхава. Некий гигант вздумал строить проход на Тибет и пытался проникнуть в Священную |
| + | Страну. Тогда поднялся Благой Учитель, возвысился ростом и поразил дерзкого попытчика. |
| + | Так уничтожен был гигант. И теперь в пещере стоит изображение Падма Самбхавы, а за ним |
| + | каменная дверь. Знают, что Учитель скрыл за дверью священные тайны для будущего, но |
| + | сроки им еще не пришли. |
| + | |
| + | Отчего так звучны большие трубы в буддийских храмах? Владыка Тибета решил призвать из |
| + | Индии, из мест жизни Благословенного, ученого ламу, чтобы очистить основы учения. Чем же |
| + | встретить гостя? Высокий лама, имев видение, дал рисунок новой трубы, чтобы гость был |
| + | встречен неслыханным звуком. И встреча была чудной не роскошью золота, но ценностью |
| + | звука. |
| + | |
| + | Отчего так звучны гонги во храмах? Серебром звучат гонги и колокольчики на заре утра и |
| + | вечера, когда высокие токи напряжены. Их звон напоминает легенду о высоком ламе и |
| + | китайском императоре. Чтобы испытать знание и ясновидение ламы, Император сделал для |
| + | него сидение из священных книг и, накрыв их тканями, пригласил гостя сесть. Лама |
| + | сотворил какие-то молитвы и сел. Император спросил: "Если вы все знаете, то как же вы |
| + | сели на священные книги?". "Здесь нет священных книг", – отвечал лама. И изумленный |
| + | император вместо священных книг нашел пустую бумагу. И дал император ламе дары и много |
| + | колоколов ясного звона. Но лама велел бросить их в реку, сказав: "Я не могу донести все |
| + | это. Если надо, то река донесет эти дары до моего монастыря". И река донесла колокола с |
| + | хрустальным звоном, ясным, как волны реки. |
| + | |
| + | Талисманы. Одна мать много раз просила сына привезти ей священное сокровище Будды. Но |
| + | молодец забывал просьбу матери. Говорит она: "Вот умру здесь перед тобой, если не |
| + | принесешь и теперь мне". Но побывал сынок в Лхасе и опять забыл материнскую просьбу. Уж |
| + | за полдня езды от дома он вспомнил, но где же найти в пустыне священные предметы? Нет |
| + | ничего. Вот видит путник череп собачий. Решил вынуть зуб собаки и обернул его желтым |
| + | шелком. Везет к дому. Спрашивает старая: "Не забыл ли сынок мою последнюю просьбу?". |
| + | Подает он ей собачий зуб в шелке и говорит: "Это зуб Будды". И кладет мать зуб в божницу |
| + | и творит перед ним самые священные молитвы и обращает все свои помыслы к своей святыне. |
| + | И сделалось чудо. Начал светиться зуб чистыми лучами. И произошли от него чудеса и |
| + | многие священные предметы. |
| + | |
| + | Человек двенадцать лет искал Майтрейю-Будду. Нигде не нашел. Разгневался и отказался. |
| + | Идет путем. Видит – странник конским волосом пилит железную палку и твердит: "Если даже |
| + | жизни моей не хватит, все-таки перепилю". Смутился человек: "Что значат мои двенадцать |
| + | лет перед таким упорством, вернусь я к моим исканиям". И тогда явился человеку Сам |
| + | Майтрейя-Будда и сказал: "Давно уже Я с тобою, но не замечаешь и гонишь, и плюешь на |
| + | меня. Вот сделаем испытание. Пойди на базар. Я буду на плече твоем". Пошел человек, |
| + | зная, что несет Майтрейю, но шарахнулись от него люди, разбежались, носы заткнули и |
| + | закрыли глаза. "Почему бежите вы, люди?" – "Что за ужас у тебя на плече – вся в язвах |
| + | смердящая собака". И опять не увидели люди Майтрейю-Будду. И увидели то, чего каждый |
| + | достоин. |
| + | |
| + | Лама сказал: "Три рода учения: одно – для посторонних, другое – для своих, третье – для |
| + | посвященных, могущих вместить. Вот по неразумию они убивают животных и пьют вино, и едят |
| + | мясо, и живут грязно. А разве Учение позволяет все это? Где красота – там учение. Где |
| + | учение – там красота". |
| + | |
| + | Чувствительны здесь люди. Ваши ощущения и намерения передаются здесь так легко. Потому |
| + | знайте четко, что хотите. Иначе вместо Будды увидите собаку. |
| + | |
| + | Главное не то, что захоронено в прошлом, что запылено в старинных книгах, переписанных и |
| + | недописанных. При новом строительстве важно то, что еще сейчас вращается в жизни. Не по |
| + | полкам библиотек, а по живому слову измеряется состояние дух. |
| + | |
| + | Под Канченджангой притаились пещеры, где хранимы сокровища. В каменных гробах молятся |
| + | пещерники, истязая себя во имя будущего. Но будущее уже овеяно солнцем. Уже не в тайных |
| + | пещерах, но в солнечном свете – почитание и ожидание Майтрейи-Будды. Уже три года, как |
| + | таши-лама в своем Ташилумпо торжественно и явно воздвиг изображение Грядущего. Идет |
| + | незримая, напряженная работа. |
| + | |
| + | Таши-лама через Сикким и Калькутту, путями Китая проехал в Монголию. Никогда такого не |
| + | бывало. Тайна. Впрочем, может быть, через Сиким проехал лишь отводный отряд, а сам лама |
| + | двинулся на Монголию. |
| + | |
| + | В священное утро на горах засветились вереницы огоньков: другая тайна! |
| + | |
| + | Сейчас волна внимания к Тибету. За стеною гор идут события. Но тибетская тайна велика. |
| + | Сведения противоречивы. Куда исчез таши-лама? Какие военные действия на границе Китая? |
| + | |
| + | Что делается на монгольской границе? Год событий! |
| + | |
| + | Называли Сикким страною молний. Конечно, и молнии здесь бывают, но не проще ли назвать: |
| + | "Страна небесных ступеней"? Лучшего преддверия к тайнам будущего трудно придумать. |
| + | Неисследованная, малопроникаемая страна скал и цветов. |
| + | |
| + | Как в сказке, как на блюдечке за серебряным яблочком, открываются холмы и ступени |
| + | Гималаев. Сто монастырей Сиккима; наверное, гораздо больше. Каждый из них увенчал |
| + | вершину холма. Малый храмик в Чаконге. Большой субурган и монастырь в Ринченпонге. На |
| + | следующей горе белеет Пемайанцзе, еще выше – Санга Челлинг. Ташидинг почте не виден. По |
| + | другую сторону долины – Долинг и против него – Роблинг, и еще ближе – Намцзе. За сорок |
| + | миль видны монастыри. Не забудем, что здесь видится необычно далеко. |
| + | |
| + | И опять перед нами стена на Тибет. И не хребет ящера, но белоснежный пояс раскинулся по |
| + | вершинам стены – пояс земли. Поставим стрелу на север – там должны быть основания горы |
| + | Меру. |
| + | |
| + | Талмуд говорит, что голубь принес первую масличную ветвь Ною с горы Мория. И гора Мория, |
| + | и гора Меру – в Азии. Здесь начало всего. Здесь начало всех путников, всех искателей. |
| + | Здесь воздвигнуто первое изображение Благословенного Майтрейи – Мессии – |
| + | Мунтазара. Трижды мощное М! Здесь, поверх всех |
| + | споров, учения подняли масличную ветвь нового Мира. Здесь заповедана Мировая Община. |
| + | |
| + | Подошел сам, потрогал-прикоснулся к нашему шатру. Кто этот человек с длинной черной |
| + | косою, с бирюзовой серьгой в ухе, в белом кафтане? Местный иконописец – лама Пема |
| + | Дондуб. |
| + | |
| + | Мы спросили: "Можешь ли написать нам Благословенного Майтрейю совершенно так, как в |
| + | Ташилунпо?". Взялся, и вот сидит на коврике, в уголке белой галереи, и различно-цветно |
| + | пишет полный символами Лик. Приготовляет ткань для писания, покрывает ее левкасом (мел |
| + | на клею) и выглаживает раковиной. Совершенно как русские иконописцы. Так же растирает |
| + | краски, так же греет их на жаровне, так же втыкает запасную кисть в черные густые |
| + | волосы. И жена его, из Тибета, помогает ему готовить краски. |
| + | |
| + | И так в уголке белой галереи расцвечивается замысловатый образ. Все символы укрепляют |
| + | Благословенного. И страшный, птицеподобный Гаруда, и мудрые Наги, и Ганеша – слон |
| + | счастья, и Чинтамани – Конь, несущий на спине чудесный камень – сокровище Мира. Целый |
| + | священный хоровод избранных образов. А на лик и благие руки кладется чистое золото. |
| + | |
| + | И так же, как наши иконописцы, поет лама-иконописатель стихиры во время работы. Стихиры |
| + | усилились – значит, приступил к самому Лику. |
| + | |
| + | И еще диво, возможное только в этой стране. В глубоких сумерках, когда наливающийся |
| + | месяц уже вступает в права, по дому разносятся серебряные звуки самодельной флейты. В |
| + | темноте художник лама на коврике переливчато играет перед Ликом Майтрейи – Мессии – |
| + | Мунтазара. |
| + | |
| + | Струны земли! |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 23 |
| + | |
| + | Где проходили орды великих монголов? Где скрылось исчезнувшее колено Израилево? Где |
| + | "Трон Соломона"? Где пути Христа-Странника? Где зарево шаманского бон-по – религии |
| + | демонов? Где Шалимар – сады Джахангира? Где пути Памира, Лхасы, Хотана? Где таинственная |
| + | пещера Амарната? Где тропа великого Александра к забытой Таксиле? Где стены Акбара? Где |
| + | учил Асвагоша? Где созидал Авантисвамин? Где твердыни Чандрагупты Маурьи? Где мудрые |
| + | камни царя Ашоки? Все прошло по Кашмиру. Здесь древние пути Азии. И каждый караван |
| + | мелькает, как звено сочетаний великого тела Востока. |
| + | |
| + | Здесь и песчаные пустыни на пути к Пешавару; и синие вершины Сонамарга; и белые склоны |
| + | Соджи-ла. И в полете орлов тот же неутомимый дух; и в резвых конях то же непреклонное |
| + | движение. И мир роз и шалей кашмирских не похож на забытый и скрытый мир кашмирских |
| + | клинков. |
| + | |
| + | "Весна священная". Когда мы сочиняли ее со Стравинским, не думалось, что Кашмир встретит |
| + | нас этой постановкой. В Гари на ночлеге, когда вызвездило яркое весеннее небо и засинели |
| + | горы, мы заметили вереницы огней по горам. Огни двигались, расходились и странно |
| + | кружились. И по всем склонам зажглись эти огненные процессии. И в деревне внизу |
| + | закружились темные силуэты, размахивая смоляными факелами на длинных шестах. Огненные |
| + | круги возвещали о конце холодов зимних. И песни возвещали весну священную. Этот праздник |
| + | девятого марта. |
| + | |
| + | "Буль-Буль" – соловей-птица поет на яблоне. Кукушка отсчитывает долгую жизнь. На лужайке |
| + | расстелены белые полотна и кипит самовар. Красные и желтые яблоки и сдобные лепешки |
| + | предлагаются сидящим на весенней траве. Глазки фиалок и бело-желтые нарциссы ткут |
| + | пестрый ковер. А вечером стада уток и станицы гусей усеивают мочажины озер. Выходят на |
| + | весенние поляны маленькие медведи. И никто не боится их, разве если это матка с |
| + | детьми... |
| + | |
| + | Пологие речные берега. Вереница бурлаков ведет крытые лодки... По широкой дороге тянутся |
| + | волы и скрипят колеса. Трехсотлетние чинары и высокие тополя оберегают пути. И часто |
| + | зубы встречных путников в улыбке привета. |
| + | |
| + | На сеновале лежат сани – московские розвальни. На дворе скрипит журавль над колодцем. |
| + | Соломенная крыша проросла зеленым мхом. Скрючились придорожные ивы. Гомонят приветствия |
| + | детишек. Где же это? В Шуе или на Коломне? Это в Шринагаре, в "городе солнца". |
| + | |
| + | Пузатые белые колонки; мелкая роспись орнаментов; крутые каменные лесенки; золоченая |
| + | крыша храма; скрипучие расписные ставни окон; заржавленные замки; низкие дверки "с |
| + | поклоном", резные балюстрады, покосившиеся плиты каменных полов, запах старого лака, |
| + | мелкие стекла оконцев. Где же мы? В Ростовском Кремле? В суздальских монастырях? В |
| + | ярославских храмах? И стаи бесчисленных галок. И голые ветки за окнами. Это главный |
| + | дворец махараджи Кашмира. Любопытно все, что от старины сохранилось. Все новейшие |
| + | приделки ужасны. |
| + | |
| + | По дорогам много моторов Форда. В столовой гостиницы видны лица американцев. В ювелирной |
| + | лавке рядом висят две картины: одна – вид Дели, другая – вид Московского Кремля. Среди |
| + | кристаллов, в которые смотрят судьбу, среди кашмирских сапфиров и тибетской бирюзы |
| + | зеленеют китайские жадеиты и цветными садами раскинулись полы шитых кафтанов. Как ценные |
| + | шали, залиты комнаты музея мелким иранским узором, и отбитая судьбою Гандхара сводит |
| + | воедино расколовшиеся ветви Запада и Востока. |
| + | |
| + | В характере храмов и мечетей, в угловых резных драконах, в шатровой четырехскатной вышке |
| + | неожиданное сочетание деревянных старых церквей Норвегии и китайских пагод. Из одного |
| + | колодца почерпнута романская химера, звериный орнамент Алтая и зверьки Китайского |
| + | Турекстана и Китая. Сибирские пути народов далеко вынесли одинаковый смысл украшений. |
| + | |
| + | Твердо стоит крепость Акбара. Но когда подымитесь по всем кручам и ступеням, то видно, |
| + | что старые кирпичи и глинобитная смазка с трудом держатся. Своды готовы упасть. |
| + | |
| + | Нишад – сад Акбара – занял место от озера до взгорья. Высокое место. Строения скромны и |
| + | по углам любимые им башенки. Характер простоты и ясности. |
| + | |
| + | Шалимар – сад Джахангира – тоже в характере своего хозяина, стоит "для себя". Меньше |
| + | внешнего вида, больше роскоши. Той роскоши, которая довела до нищеты потомков моголов. |
| + | Последний могол, в Дели, тайно продавал мебель из дворца и разрушал ценные облицовки |
| + | стен Шах-Джахана и Аурангзеба. Так кончилась великая династия. |
| + | |
| + | Ткач Кашмира сопровождал каждый узор особым напевом. Великую гармонию труда напоминает |
| + | такое искание ритма. |
| + | |
| + | Ни в одной песне не сказывается, отчего гора "Трон Соломона" носит это имя. Ведь это |
| + | место очень древнее. Еще Джанака, сын Ашоки, утвердил там один из первых буддийских |
| + | храмов. Через семь веков храм был перестроен и посвящен Махадеве... Но откуда имя |
| + | Соломона? Имя Соломона гора получила от легенды, что Соломон, желая скрываться от |
| + | условностей царской жизни и тягостей двора, на ковре-самолете с любимой женою |
| + | переносился на эту гору. Опять упоминание о "летательном аппарате" Соломона. Такая же |
| + | гора в Туркестане и Персии. |
| + | |
| + | Не только гора "Трон Соломона" переносит сознание в библейские сферы. В долине Синда |
| + | почему-то особенно почитается пророк Илия. Очень звучны легенды о том, как пророк, сидя |
| + | в пещере, спасает рыбаков и путников. В различных обликах, то благой, то грозный, пророк |
| + | является на защиту дел справедливости и благочестия. Мусульмане и индусы, разрозненные |
| + | многими причинами, одинаково чтят пророка Илию. |
| + | |
| + | Лиловый ирис всегда будет напоминать мусульманское кладбище. Они залиты этими цветами. |
| + | Но вот радость: распустилась сирень, закивали ландыши, и забелела черемуха... |
| + | |
| + | После "мелкого рисунка" современного Кашмира отдыхаете на развалинах Мартанда и |
| + | Авантипура. И здесь девятый и десятый век дали расцвет. Здесь фантастика азиатской |
| + | колыбели романеска торжественно слилась с радостным культом Вишну. Чувствуете, что и |
| + | здесь, на фоне сапфировых предгорий Гималаев, стояли величественные сооружения. Вскрыты |
| + | они лишь частично. Пологие наносные бугры скрывают целые дворцы и города. Картина мощи |
| + | Азии еще не явлена. Только искры ее можно отметить на случайных листках. Любящие руки |
| + | соберут чашу прекрасного сознания. |
| + | |
| + | "Слава тебе, Хакаура, Гор наш, Бог по бытию, защищающий страну, обуздатель пустыни змеем |
| + | своего урея, без лука пускающий стрелу, как делает богиня Сихмет. Язык царя обращает в |
| + | бегство азиатов". Так говорит гимн в честь Сенусерта III. Два выражения имеют особое |
| + | значение. "Пускающий стрелу без лука" – воздействующий на расстоянии. "Обуздатель |
| + | пустыни змеем своего урея" напоминает о древнейшем культе Азии – жены и змея. |
| + | Змеинообразные капители колонн Азии и майев говорят о том же культе – мудрой жены. О том |
| + | же указывает старое блюдо, найденное в Кашмире: посередине сидит царь змеев с волшебным |
| + | цветком в руке. У царя две пары рук – черные и светлые, ибо мудрость имеет полное |
| + | вооружение. Перед царем женщина с покрывалом на голове, женщине царь вручает мудрость. |
| + | Вся группа находится на фоне множества змей, поднявшихся и соединивших головы. Вокруг |
| + | срединного изображения ряд отдельных фигур властителей, имеющих на шее изображение змея. |
| + | Этот знак мудрости заставляет человекообразных и животноподобных джиннов служить и |
| + | помогать владетелям древнего знака. В длинную трубу джинны передают далекие вести. |
| + | Джинны приносят цветы для украшения жизни. Джинны, в виде животных, переносятся по |
| + | воздуху. Джинны приносят ларцы драгоценностей. Джинны присутствуют в виде стражи. Так |
| + | хранят древний знак мудрости. |
| + | |
| + | "Гулиджан-Марда", "Илло-Алладин-Шабаша", "Илайла-Сулейман" – перекликаются гребцы. Весла |
| + | с сердцевидной лопаткой режут желтую воду. |
| + | |
| + | Современному Шринагару не более 150–200 лет. От старого "города солнца" ничего не |
| + | осталось. Старые мечети остались лишь в остовах. В уродливых облицовках "набережной" |
| + | видны следы рельефов отличных камней девятого, одиннадцатого веков. Отдельные осколки, |
| + | ничто не связывает их с грязными домиками современности. |
| + | |
| + | Старые мосты должны скоро рухнуть. Кто положил начало кашмирских каналов? Кто обсадил |
| + | дороги частым тыном тополей? Не сделал ли это кто-то из пришельцев от Средней Азии, где |
| + | зима заставляет обозначать путь и пески требуют каналы орошения? И откуда |
| + | этишикара с легкие гондолоподобные лодки? |
| + | |
| + | У ровного берега пошли бечевою. И желтые плесы напомнили Волгу или Миссисипи. Река |
| + | Джелам – нерв Кашмира. |
| + | |
| + | Самое большое озеро Вулар, самое красивое, самое грозное. Две ночи опасно било лодку о |
| + | глинистую отмель. Еще остались бы, еще поработали бы, но "ковчег" может треснуть. На |
| + | этом озере все привлекательно. Весь сияющий снегами Пир-Панджал – на западе. Густые горы |
| + | – на север и восток. Даль Шринагара – на юг. Перед закатом поднимается изумительная |
| + | Валгалла над Пир-Панджалом, а утром – кристально-синие горы востока. На отмелях стада, и |
| + | каждый конь виден на далекой мели, так воздух небывало прозрачен. На восточной отмели |
| + | виден островок. На нем развалины храма и, бывает, сидят размышляющие садху и факиры. Мир |
| + | религии в Кашмире менее заметен. |
| + | |
| + | Детали разрушенного храма на островке могут быть перенесены в любой романский собор. |
| + | Много ходили готы и всюду посеяли свой стиль. Украшения женских шапочек напоминают |
| + | готские фибулы. Только не красная эмаль, а красные стекла вставлены в медную оправу. |
| + | |
| + | Около лодки носятся касатки-ласточки. По борту важно шагают удоды. Над полями звенит |
| + | жаворонок. Посреди деревни кладбище – бугор, усеянный камнями, – наш северный "жальник". |
| + | На бугре часовня с шатровой зеленою крышей. Старинные, костистые чинары сторожат покой. |
| + | Около деревень остатки храмов и "городища" – песчаные бугры с засыпанной стариною. |
| + | Гребцы, под вечер, поют протяжные песни "бурлацкие", и горласто лают стаи собак. От |
| + | дальнего севера до юга одно и то же строение жизни. Удивительно! |
| + | |
| + | На северо-востоке озера Вулар горы сходятся. В этом проходе какая-то зовущая |
| + | убедительность. Само селение Бандипур уже имеет какой-то особый характер. Когда |
| + | подходите к почтовому отделению, вы поймете значительность места. Здесь подымается в |
| + | горы дорога на Гилгит. Вы проходите до первого подъема и следите за извилинами |
| + | восходящего пути. На вершине перевала первый ночлег. Потом путь сперва идет по самому |
| + | гребню, где еще белеет снег полоскою, а затем окунается в новое преддверие. Гилгит и |
| + | Читрал берегутся особо. Если трудно идти на Ладак, то Гилгит и Читрал всегда под особым |
| + | запретом. Лиловые и пурпурные скалы, синева снежных вершин. Каждый всадник в чалме |
| + | привлекает внимание: не с севера ли? Каждая вереница груженых лошадок тянет глаз за |
| + | собою. Значительный угол! |
| + | |
| + | Сундук, караул, самовар, чай, чепрак, сюды-сюды, кавардак, колпак и много других слов |
| + | странно и четко звучат в кашмирской речи. И плетеные лапти напоминают о других, северных |
| + | путях. |
| + | |
| + | Лодочник устраивает нам кашмирский обед. Приходят шесть поваров. Стол засыпается синими |
| + | ирисами. С утра, кроме чая, нам ничего не дали. Собра и его брат Рамзана, и сметливый |
| + | Ибрагим, и какие-то неведомые братья и дяди, и, может, сам столетний дед, сидящий с |
| + | хуккой (трубкой) в кухонной лодке, – все заняты каким-то таинством. Наконец, в семь |
| + | часов вечера появился таинственный обед. По очереди было подано двадцать семь блюд. И |
| + | каждое должно было быть испробовано. Перечень всех изощрений шести поваров: миндальный |
| + | суп, намки плов, мехти, табак маз, кабаб, руган яш, дупиаз, батха курма, абгош, алюбукар |
| + | курма, чана курма, марзеванган курма, субзе курма, намки кабаб актаби, куфта, куфта |
| + | тикеа, дампокта, кокарпуту, кади руган иош, мета плов, тула шум, риваш, мета зунт, мета |
| + | тул, дизи алю, пирини, тула халва. Так назывался этот апофеоз баранины и пряностей. И |
| + | как было сказать, что именно изысканность обеда была так чужда нам. |
| + | |
| + | Кашмирское пение. Семеро в белых чалмах. Один – рыжий – с длинной ситарой. У троих – |
| + | саазы. В глубине сидит искусник на двух таблах (узкие барабаны). По углам двое поющих, в |
| + | середине – певица в синей шали с серебряными браслетами и пронизками. Поют персидские |
| + | песни, арабские, урду и кашмирские. Как и в ассирийских рельефах, певица поднимает |
| + | указательный палец или левую ладонь, или складывает руки у лба. Иногда она вскакивает и |
| + | "уточкой" мягко обегает круг. Персидская песня "Сурам" – песнь разлуки и вечных |
| + | воспоминаний. "Шахназ" – арабская песнь: "Самый богатый не возьмет с собой имущество |
| + | после смерти". "Когда Христос возносился – прославляли Его все слуги". Вот песнь урду: |
| + | "Два друга на всяком расстоянии думают взаимно. Мир – ничто, и каждый должен уйти из |
| + | него". "Кошюр" – кашмирская песнь: "Ты идешь по пути, но невидим Ты мне. Дал мне вина |
| + | жизни и ушел от меня. Все зависит от Бога". "Если я увидел одного человека или женщину – |
| + | я уже увидел весь мир". "Камач" – кашмирская песнь: "Говорят хвалу Христу всякими |
| + | словами. Он был лучше солнца и луны". |
| + | |
| + | Так на красном ковре восемь мусульман, непрошено и нежданно, до полуночи славословят |
| + | Христа и мироздание. Вслед за ними и все лодочники шевелят белыми чалмами и качаются, |
| + | подпевая. И саазы гудят, как шепот леса. И наш конфуцианец китаец твердит по-тибетски: |
| + | "Як поду", то есть "хорошо". А потом виктрола повторяет "Песнь Леля" Шаляпина |
| + | Римского-Корсакова, и чутко кивают чалмы кашмирцев. Одно сознание! Кончаем песнею про |
| + | Акбара. И вся полночь проходит без всяких отрицаний. И все обоюдно найденное принято с |
| + | доброй улыбкой. |
| + | |
| + | Можно ли превратить эту полночь понимания – в пошлость безобразия? Вероятно, можно. |
| + | Видели постыдные письма, посылаемые иностранцами туземцам. Постыдные запросы плоти. |
| + | Можно заменить улыбку гримасою звероподобности? Конечно, не трудно. Можно вызвать весь |
| + | ужас безобразия. Можно разрушить всеобщее благо. Можно уйти с клеймом пылающим – |
| + | пошлости. Можно уйти во мрак невежества и предрассудка. |
| + | |
| + | Как и в Сиккиме, так же и в Кашмире поражает духовная понятливость. Не успеете подумать, |
| + | а уже собеседник делает соответственный жест. И сколько добрых мыслей можно сеять этими |
| + | струнами чутья. |
| + | |
| + | И опять ритмично перекликаются гребцы: "Ампошь-пампошь", "Дагзир – Кашмир", "Шахан-шах – |
| + | падишах". А значат эти клики: "Страна роз", "Храм", "Царь царей", "Лотос", "Человек", |
| + | "Все хорошо"... |
| + | |
| + | Живем на взгорьях Пир-Панджала. Грозы сплошные, ослепительные, по трое суток. Град в |
| + | голубиное яйцо. Звезды – как свечи! Землетрясения – каждую неделю. В Сибири есть такие |
| + | городища на крутых буграх, опоясанные гремучими потоками. Кедровые и сосновые рощи |
| + | сурово хранят эти жилья, а высоко сверкают белые шапки гор. Дятлы, горлинки, иволги, |
| + | мускусные бараны и горные козлы. Так и живем в желтом, некрашеном рудовом домике. Если |
| + | солнце – все напоено хвоею, но если гроза... Трое суток свирепо грохотало и ослепляло |
| + | ночью. Кольцо молний! И неслись ливни, и град сразу белил все зеленеющие бугры. Грозно! |
| + | |
| + | Разрешение на Малый Тибет через три недели получено. Тысячи рупий были истрачены на |
| + | поездки и телеграммы. А ... тот вообще даже на письма не отвечает. |
| + | |
| + | Серия "Знамёна Востока" сложилась. 1. "Будда Победитель" перед источником жизни. 2. |
| + | "Моисей Водитель" – на вершине, окруженный сиянием неба. 3. "Сергий Строитель" – |
| + | самосильно работает. 4. "Дозор Гималаев", в ледниках. 5. "Конфуций Справедливый" – |
| + | путник в изгнании. 6. "Йенно Гуйо Дья" – друг путников (Япония). 7. "Миларепа |
| + | Услышавший" – на восходе познавший голоса дэв. 8. "Дордже Дерзнувший" стать лицом к лицу |
| + | с самим Махакалой. 9. "Сараха – Благая Стрела", не медлящий в благих посылках. 10. |
| + | "Магомет на горе Хира (весть архангела Гавриила)", предание. 11. "Нагарджуна – |
| + | Победитель Змия" видит знамение на озере владыки Нагов. 12. "Ойрот – вестник Белого |
| + | Бурхана", поверье Алтая. И те, что уже в Музее: 13. "Матерь Мира". 14. "Знаки Христа". |
| + | 15. "Лао-цзы". 16. "Дзон-Капа". 17. "Падма Самбхава". 18. "Чаша". 19. "Змий Древний". |
| + | |
| + | В Монголии есть обычай большой древности. В случаях народного бедствия или нужды ламы |
| + | всходили на высшую гору и с заклинаниями разбрасывали бумажных коней. Конь как символ |
| + | Будды, силы и счастья. И, кружась, неслись эти кони валькирий, эти Световитовы кони, |
| + | неся помощь неведомым бедствующим. На Двине сидел Прокопий и благословлял неведомых |
| + | плывущих; на хребтах Азии ламы слали коней неведомым бедствующим. И в этой неведомости – |
| + | та же забота об общем благе. Такие обычаи лам ценны. Это не "сидение под деревом", не |
| + | просьба в пространство, не фигурные движения ритуала, но "приказ" о помощи неведомым |
| + | бедствующим, горний голос, требующий, чтобы умиротворились беды людские. |
| + | |
| + | И еще два трогательных облика не должны быть забыты. Основатель так называемого |
| + | манихейства, Мани, в третьем веке распятый на воротах города в Персии за синтез учений и |
| + | за идею общины. Другой – Гуру Камбала, отдавший голову свою как символ преданности и |
| + | служения. И Камбала и кони в сущности тоже входят в "Знамена Востока". |
| + | |
| + | Манихейство жило долго. В самой Италии манихеи, преследуемые, жили до XIV века. Может |
| + | быть, от них Беноццо Гоццоли воспринял содержание пизанской фрески о четырех встречах |
| + | царевича Сиддхарты – Будды, озаривших его сознание. Вместо индусского владетеля движется |
| + | кавалькада итальянских синьоров. И в некоторых восточных трактовках, точно где-то в |
| + | глубине понимания, чудится характерная фантастика Гоццоли, с его пышно-узорными скалами |
| + | и хвойными деревьями, с его золочеными чепраками и навершиями ярких знамен. Ручные |
| + | "пардусы" Востока сидят за седлом, и чалма охотно обвивает шлем, как на символах |
| + | крестоносцев. Что это? Отзвучия крестовых походов, о которых мечтал даже Герри мет де |
| + | Блес? Или более древняя организация синтеза верований Мани пронизала и связала сознание |
| + | Востока и запада? Сколько необъяснимых явлений! Сколько имен оклеветанных! Сколько |
| + | истинных, просвещенных исканий, сваленных в одну кучу с откинутым мусором. Особенность |
| + | будущих изучений должна заключаться в беспредрассудочной справедливости. |
| + | |
| + | И еще подробность, связующая Восток и Запад. Помните ли Турфанскую Матерь Мира с |
| + | младенцем? Среди Азии, может быть, несториане или манихеи оставили этот облик. Или, |
| + | вернее, этот облик остался претворенным от времен гораздо более древних. Кали или |
| + | Гуаньинь – кто знает, сколько им веков? За ними скрываются жена и змий. Древность этого |
| + | символа уже неисчислима. Не к библейской странице, не к символам каббалы ведет этот |
| + | облик. Несуществующие материки уже сложили красоту Матери Мира – этой светоносной |
| + | материи. Только невежество толкует о незнании древности. |
| + | |
| + | Спрашиваете, как мы обходимся без театров? У нас театр ежедневный, только без |
| + | подмостков, а в жизни. То китайский театр, с легендами о небывалых народах. То зловещий |
| + | балет кашмирских купцов-шайтанов. То угрожающий монолог полицейского. То драма |
| + | разбиваемой волнами лодки. То процессии коней. То тихие вечерние песни. То фуриозо града |
| + | и землетрясения. И не нужно вешать ветшающие холсты, не надо марать лиц, когда весь мир |
| + | участвует в мистерии эволюции. Когда обновленные понятия входят в жизнь повелительно, в |
| + | новообразованиях вселенской красоты. |
| + | |
| + | В Монголии поход объявляется посылкою стрелы князю-нойону. Стрела, прилетевшая к Федору |
| + | Тирону, шла с Востока. |
| + | |
| + | Юрий едет на коне из Яркенда. Я и китаец на конях из Хотана. У моего – звезда; у |
| + | яркендского коня тавро китайское, крест в квадрате – знак поля – Тиань. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. ru/books/1/24.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,450 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 24 |
| + | |
| + | Индра, Агни и Сурья – воздух, огонь и солнце! Индусская Тримурти – Троица остается |
| + | позади. Древняя Сарасвати Вед – великий Инд – ведет к своим снежным истокам. Если Ганг – |
| + | приветствие, сидение, сосредоточение, то Инд – движение, неуклонность, стремительность. |
| + | И как притягательно неуклонны пути движения народов через Гиндукуш и Памир! |
| + | |
| + | Опять караван. Опять легко забываются дни и числа. Качество дня становится значительнее |
| + | его числа или названия. Подобно египтянам, называвшим года по их качеству – "год битвы" |
| + | или "год неурожая", – можно сохранить лишь качество дней. День коня, когда лошади |
| + | провалились на снеговом мосту; ночь волка, когда звери пробрались к становищу; заря |
| + | орла, когда беркут со свистом налетел на шатер; закат замка, когда вознесся самый |
| + | неожиданный замок, приросший к медно-огненной вершине... Вместо тюрбана из-за камня |
| + | поднялась мохнатая шапка. Путь в страну Будды. |
| + | |
| + | Качества Будды: Шакья-Муни – мудрый из рода Шакья, Шакья Синха – Шакья Лев, Бхагават – |
| + | Благословенный, Саттха – Учитель, Джина – Победитель. |
| + | |
| + | Говорил Будда изуверам и ханжам: "Все ваши правила низки и смешны. Иной из вас ходит |
| + | нагой; иной не станет пить из кувшина или есть с блюда, не сядет за стол между двумя |
| + | собеседниками или между двумя блюдами; иной не примет подаяния в том доме, где есть |
| + | беременная женщина или где встретит собаку; иной не ест из двух сосудов и на седьмом |
| + | глотке перестает есть; иной не садится на скамьи или на циновки; иной лежит нагой на |
| + | колючих растениях или на коровьем помете. |
| + | |
| + | Чего ожидаете вы, произвольные труженики, за свои "тяжкие" труды? Ожидаете от мирян |
| + | подаяния и уважения, и когда достигаете этой цели, вы крепко пристращаетесь к удобствам |
| + | временной жизни и не хотите расстаться с ними. Если завидите издали посетителей, как |
| + | тотчас показываете вид, будто вас застали в глубоком размышлении. Когда вам подают |
| + | грубую пищу, вы отдаете ее другим, а всякую вкусную еду оставляете у себя. Предаваясь |
| + | порокам и страстям, вы надеваете личину скромности. Не таково истинное подвижничество!" |
| + | |
| + | Шесть лет положил Будда на убеждение Кашьяпы. Даже возжигал огни чуждых ему алтарей, |
| + | прежде чем упрямство старых убеждений Кашьяпы было сломлено и Будда мог присоединить к |
| + | новому учению "старый авторитет". Там, где выдвигается красота, научный подход и |
| + | просвещенная жизненность, там "старые крепости" особенно прочны. Надо понять все |
| + | трудности Будды при ломании предрассудков, если один человек потребовал шесть лет на |
| + | усвоение прекрасной простоты, чтобы потушить огни никому не нужных приношений суеверия. |
| + | |
| + | Прожить восемьдесят лет в постоянном учительстве, видеть, как на глазах извращалось |
| + | учение, понимать, как многие государи и священники принимают учение лишь из |
| + | своекорыстных соображений, предчувствовать уже приготовляемую оболочку новой |
| + | условности... |
| + | |
| + | Он, сам вместивший понятие ничтожности власти, сказал: "Идите, вы нищие, несите спасение |
| + | и благо народам". В одном слове "нищие" заключена вся программа. Пришло время, когда |
| + | из-за позолоты идола появляется лик Будды, великого общинника, учащего против |
| + | собственности, против убийства, пьянства, излишеств. Появляется могучий облик, зовущий к |
| + | переоценке ценностей, к труду и познанию. |
| + | |
| + | Много раз очищали учение Будды, и все-таки оно быстро засыпалось копотью предрассудков. |
| + | Жизненность превращалась в груду трактатов и метафизическую номенклатуру. Что же |
| + | изумляться, если и сейчас еще высятся стены монастыря Ламаюры – твердыни верований |
| + | бон-по, с их шаманскими вызываниями, зародившимися задолго до рождения Будды? |
| + | |
| + | Но все-таки произошло полезное сознание: привыкли очищать учение. Конечно, не |
| + | пресловутые соборы в Раджагрихе, Весали и Патне возвращали учение к первоначальной |
| + | простоте общины. Но сильные духом отдельные учителя искренне пытались снова явить |
| + | прекрасный лик учения. Атиша, поражавший условщину, боролся с темным пережитком |
| + | чародейства бон-по. Асвагоша, основатель всей Махаяны севера, применявший для |
| + | убедительности и наглядности форму драматических представлений. Смелый Нагарджуна, |
| + | почерпавший на озере Юмцзо мудрость из бесед с Нагом – "змеиным царем". Тибетский Орфей |
| + | – Миларепа, окруженный животными и слушавший вещие голоса гор. Поборовший силы природы |
| + | Падма Самбхава, мощный, хотя и искаженный условностями "красных шапок". Ясный и |
| + | деятельный Дзон-Капа, так полюбившийся всему северу, основатель "желтых шапок". И многие |
| + | другие, одинокие, понимавшие предуказанную эволюцию, счищали пыль условности с заветов |
| + | Будды. Их труды снова прикрывались затхлым слоем механических ритуалов. Условный ум |
| + | "обывателя", даже признав учение Будды, все-таки пытался одеть его по своему |
| + | предрассудочному разумению. |
| + | |
| + | Ни у Алары Каламы, ни у Уддаки Рамапутты Будда не нашел спасительных решений. |
| + | Преобразователь, стремившийся к жизненности, не мог удовлетвориться перетолкованиями |
| + | Ригведы. Далеко уходит Будда, в тайники гор. Предание доводит смелого искателя до Алтая. |
| + | И сказание о Белом Бурхане сохраняется на Алтае во всей жизненности. Около таинственной |
| + | Урувелы Будда приближается к простейшему выражению всех накоплений. И на берегах |
| + | Наиранжары озаряется решимостью сказать слова об общине, об отречении от личной |
| + | собственности, о значении труда на общее благо и о смысле познания. Установить научный |
| + | подход к религии было истинным подвигом. Обличить своекорыстие жрецов и браминов было |
| + | высшим бесстрашием. Явить истинные рычаги скрытых сил человеческих было неслыханно |
| + | трудно. Царю прийти в облике могучего нищего было необыкновенно прекрасно! |
| + | |
| + | В осознании эволюции человечества облик общинника Будды занимает неоспоримое, прекрасное |
| + | место. |
| + | |
| + | Будда должен был телесно услышать грохот разрушения родного города Капилавасту. Конфуций |
| + | должен был переезжать изгнанником с места на место. И его странственная колесница |
| + | поставлена в храме вместе с его сочинениями и музыкальными инструментами. Не диво, ибо в |
| + | основе учения Конфуция лежит та же община. Вспомним его учение: "Если любовью будут |
| + | воспламенены сердца смертных, то весь свет будет наподобие одного семейства. Все люди |
| + | будут представлять в себе одного человека, и все вещи, по причине удивительного |
| + | взаимного порядка и союза, покажутся одним и тем же существом. Мы должны любить других, |
| + | как самих себя, следовательно, должны желать им всего того, чего себе желаем". |
| + | "Лицемерие есть порок ненавистнейший". "Тот, кто прикрывается одною внешностью |
| + | добродетели, походит на злодея, который днем показывается честным человеком, а ночью |
| + | занимается похищением имущества ближнего". |
| + | |
| + | "Опасайся тех, которые учиняются скорей хвалителями добродетели, нежели ее |
| + | последователями. Не обманывайся их учеными рассуждениями, которые хотя бы можно было |
| + | понимать за выражение души убежденной, но они являются лишь плодом испорченного ума и |
| + | выдуманными побуждениями сердца. Те, которые говорят с некоторым родом чувствительности |
| + | о смиренномудрии, о благе общем, не всегда сами бывают в том примерами". |
| + | |
| + | "Воздержание, простота в одеянии, приличество, изучение наук и искусств, отвращение к |
| + | ласкателям, любовь к низшим, бескорыстие, благоразумие, постоянство, доброта – суть |
| + | обязанности предписанные". |
| + | |
| + | "Учись наукам и изящным искусствам, пользуйся наставлениями мудрости". "Скупой, будучи |
| + | сам в беспокойствии, делается для других предметом страшным и отвратительным. |
| + | Благоразумие да управляет всеми твоими делами". |
| + | |
| + | "Для узнания людей, добры ли они или злы, нет лучшего способа как смотреть на зрачок |
| + | глаза; ибо зрачок глаза не может скрывать порока, таящегося в сердце". |
| + | |
| + | "Не давай чувствовать высокого твоего положения низшим, не покажи преимущества твоих |
| + | заслуг равным". |
| + | |
| + | "Нет ничего такого, чего не могло бы достигнуть постоянство. Могу всякий день приносить |
| + | корзину земли, и если я то продолжаю, то наконец воздвигну гору". |
| + | |
| + | "Человек должен стать сотрудником неба и земли". |
| + | |
| + | "Все существа питают друг друга". "Законы движения светил свершаются одновременно, не |
| + | нарушая друг друга". |
| + | |
| + | "Действия неба и земли разделяются на бесчисленные потоки, действуя на каждое существо |
| + | по отдельности. Их общее действие совершает великие превращения – вот в чем величие неба |
| + | и земли". |
| + | |
| + | "Сознание, человечность и мужественность являются тремя мировыми качествами, но, чтобы |
| + | приложить их, нужна искренность". |
| + | |
| + | "Человек, не осознавший свое назначение, не может считаться великим человеком". |
| + | |
| + | "Не существует ли панацея для всего сущего? – Не есть ли это любовь к человечеству? Не |
| + | делайте другим того, что не желаете для себя". |
| + | |
| + | "Если человек умеет управлять собою, какую же трудность мог бы он встретить в управлении |
| + | государством?" |
| + | |
| + | "Мудрец тверд, но не упрям. Будьте медленны в словах и быстры в действии". |
| + | |
| + | "Мудрый ждет все от самого себя, ничтожество – все от других". |
| + | |
| + | "Я люблю блеск добродетели, который не проявляется громкими словами и напыщенными |
| + | движениями. Шумиха, возвещение – вещи очень второстепенные в преобразовании народов". |
| + | |
| + | "Невежда, гордящийся своим знанием; ничтожный, желающий чрезмерно свободу; человек, |
| + | возвращающийся к древним обычаям, – подвержены неминуемым бедствиям". |
| + | |
| + | "Стрелок являет пример для мудреца. Когда он не попадает в середину цели, он ищет |
| + | причину в себе". |
| + | |
| + | Уча об общем благе, Конфуций должен был всегда под рукою иметь свою колесницу... |
| + | |
| + | Толкует старый китаец о Конфуции. Эти старые мысли сливаются со следами старых китайских |
| + | путешественников, оставивших столько полезных сведений об Индии и всей Средней Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Если из-за идола Будды трудно усмотреть высокий Лик Будды Учителя, то еще неожиданнее в |
| + | Тибетских горах встретить и узнать прекрасные строки об Иисусе. Буддийский монастырь |
| + | хранит учение Иисуса, и ламы отдают почтение Иисусу, здесь прошедшему и учившему. Если |
| + | кто-либо будет слишком сомневаться о существовании таких документов о жизни Христа в |
| + | Азии, то, значит, он не представляет себе, как широко были распространены в свое время |
| + | несториане и сколько так называемых апокрифических легенд ими было распространено в |
| + | древнейшие времена. И сколько правды хранят апокрифы! |
| + | |
| + | Ламы знают, что Иисус, проходя по Индии и Гималаям, обращался не к браминам и кшатриям, |
| + | но к шудрам – к трудящимся и униженным. Записи лам помнят, как Иисус возвеличил женщину |
| + | – Матерь Мира. Ламы указывают, как Иисус отрицательно относился к так называемым |
| + | чудесам. |
| + | |
| + | Записи лам говорят, что Иисуса убил не еврейский народ, но представители римского |
| + | правительства. Империя и богатые – капиталисты – убили Великого Общинника, несшего свет |
| + | и трудящимся и бедным. Путь подвига света! |
| + | |
| + | Послушаем, как говорят в Гималаях о Христе. В рукописях, имеющих древность около 1500 |
| + | лет, можно прочесть: "Исса (Иисус) тайно оставил родителей и вместе с купцами из |
| + | Иерусалима направился к Инду, за усовершенствованием и изучением законов Учителя. |
| + | |
| + | Он провел время в древних городах Индии Джаггарнате, Раджагрихе, Бенаресе. Все его |
| + | любили. Исса жил в мире с вайшьями и шудрами, которых он обучал. |
| + | |
| + | Но брамины и кшатрии сказали ему, что Брама запретил приближаться к сотворенным из его |
| + | чрева и ног. Вайшьи могут слушать Веды лишь по праздникам, а шудрам запрещено не только |
| + | присутствовать при чтении Вед, но даже смотреть на них. Шудры обязаны только вечно |
| + | служить рабами браминов и кшатриев. |
| + | |
| + | Но Исса не слушал речей браминов и ходил к шудрам проповедовать против браминов и |
| + | кшатриев. Он сильно восставал против того, что человек присваивает себе право лишать |
| + | своих ближних человеческого достоинства. |
| + | |
| + | Исса говорил, что человек наполнил храмы мерзостью. Чтобы угодить камням и металлам, |
| + | человек приносит в жертву людей, в которых обитает частица Высшего Духа. Человек унижает |
| + | работающих в поте лица, чтобы приобрести милость тунеядца, сидящего за роскошно убранным |
| + | столом. Но лишающие братьев общего блаженства будут лишены его сами, и брамины и кшатрии |
| + | станут шудрами шудр, с которыми Высший Дух пребудет вечно. |
| + | |
| + | Вайшьи и шудры были поражены изумлением и спросили, что они должны делать. Исса говорил: |
| + | "Не поклоняйтесь идолам. Не считайте себя всегда первыми и не унижайте своего ближнего. |
| + | Помогайте бедным, поддерживайте слабых, не делайте зла кому-либо, не желайте того, чего |
| + | не имеете, но что видите у других". |
| + | |
| + | Многие, узнав про эти слова, решили убить Иссу. Но Исса, предупрежденный, оставил ночью |
| + | эти места. |
| + | |
| + | Затем Исса был в Непале и в Гималайских горах... |
| + | |
| + | "Сделай же чудо", – говорили ему служители храма. Тогда Исса сказал: "Чудеса начали |
| + | являться с первого дня, как сотворился мир. Кто же их не видит, тот лишен одного низ |
| + | лучших даров жизни. Но горе вам, противники людей, горе вам, если вы ждете, что Он |
| + | засвидетельствует свое могущество чудесами". |
| + | |
| + | Исса учил не стараться видеть своими собственными глазами Вечного Духа, но чувствовать |
| + | его сердцем, и стать душой чистой и достойной... "Не только не совершайте человеческих |
| + | жертвоприношений, но и не закалывайте животных, ибо это было бы похищением у ближнего. |
| + | Не обманывайте, чтобы вас самих не обманули. Не поклоняйтесь солнцу, оно только часть |
| + | мира". |
| + | |
| + | "Пока народы не имели жрецов, естественный закон управлял ими, и они сохраняли |
| + | непорочность души". |
| + | |
| + | "И говорю: бойтесь все совращающее с истинного пути и наполняющее людей суевериями и |
| + | предрассудками, ослепляющее зрячих и проповедующее поклонение предметам". |
| + | |
| + | Иссе исполнилось 29 лет, когда он прибыл по возвращении в страну Израиля. Исса учил: "Не |
| + | впадайте в отчаяние, не покидайте дома вашего, не губите благородства чувств ваших, не |
| + | поклоняйтесь идолам, наполняйтесь надеждой и терпением. Вы поднимете упавших, дадите |
| + | есть голодным, поможете недужным, чтобы быть совершенно чистыми и праведными в день |
| + | последний, который я вам готовлю. Если хотите совершать дела благости и любви, делайте |
| + | их со щедрым сердцем. Да не будет в этих действиях надежды на прибыль или на торговый |
| + | расчет. Дела прибыли и расчета не приблизят вас". |
| + | |
| + | Тогда Пилат, правитель Иерусалима, приказал схватить проповедника Иссу и доставить его |
| + | судьям, не возбуждая, однако, неудовольствия народа. |
| + | |
| + | Но Исса учил: "Не ищите прямых путей в темноте и под страхом, но соберите силы и |
| + | поддержите друг друга. Поддерживающий соседа укрепляет самого себя. |
| + | |
| + | Разве не видите вы, что могущественные и богатые сеют дух мятежа против вечного |
| + | небесного сознания. |
| + | |
| + | Законы Моисея я старался восстановить в сердцах людей. И вам говорю, что вы не разумеете |
| + | их истинного смысла, ибо не мести, но прощению они учат, но значение этих законов |
| + | извращено". |
| + | |
| + | Правитель же пришел в гнев и подослал к Иссе своих переодетых слуг, чтобы следить за |
| + | всеми его действиями и доносить о словах его к народу. |
| + | |
| + | "Праведный человек, – сказали Иссе переодетые слуги правителя Иерусалима, – научи нас, |
| + | нужно ли исполнять волю кесаря или ожидать близкого освобождения?" |
| + | |
| + | Но Исса, узнав прислужников переодетых, сказал: "Я не предсказывал вам, что вы |
| + | освободитесь от кесаря, – я сказал, что душа, погруженная в грех, будет освобождена от |
| + | него". |
| + | |
| + | Тем временем старая женщина приблизилась к толпе, но была отстранена одним из |
| + | переодетых. Тогда Исса сказал: "Почитайте женщину, мать вселенной; в ней лежит истина |
| + | творения. Она – основание всего доброго и прекрасного. Она – источник жизни и смерти. От |
| + | нее зависит существование человека, ибо она опора в его трудах. Она вас рождает в муках. |
| + | Она следит за вашим ростом. До самой ее смерти вы причиняете ей томление. Благословляйте |
| + | ее. Чтите ее. Она ваш единственный друг и опора на земле. Почитайте ее. Защищайте ее. |
| + | Любите ваших жен и уважайте их, ведь они завтра матерями будут, а позднее – праматерями |
| + | всего рода. Любовь их делает человека благородным, смягчает ожесточенные сердца и |
| + | укрощает зверя. Жена и мать – неоценимое сокровище, они украшение вселенной. От них |
| + | родится все, что населяет мир. |
| + | |
| + | Как свет отделяется от тьмы, так женщина владеет даром отделять в человеке добрые |
| + | намерения от злых мыслей. Ваши лучшие мысли должны принадлежать женщине. Черпайте в них |
| + | ваши нравственные силы, необходимые вам, чтобы помогать ближнему. Не подвергайте ее |
| + | унижениям, этим вы унизите только самих себя. Этим вы потеряете то чувство любви, без |
| + | которого ничего здесь на земле не существует. Принесите почитание жене, и она защитит |
| + | вас. Все, что сделаете матери, жене, вдове или другой женщине в скорби – сделаете для |
| + | духа". |
| + | |
| + | Так учил Исса; но правитель Пилат, испуганный приверженностью народа к Иссе, который, |
| + | если верить его противникам, хотел поднять народ, – приказал одному из соглядатаев |
| + | обвинить его. |
| + | |
| + | Исса, думавший только о блаженстве своих братьев, переносил страдания. Сказал Исса: |
| + | "Недалеко то время, когда Высшею Волею народ очистится, ибо явится объявление |
| + | освобождения народов и соединение их в одну семью". |
| + | |
| + | И затем обратился к правителю: "Зачем унижаешь свое достоинство и учишь подчиненных жить |
| + | во лжи, когда и без того ты имеешь возможность обвинить невинного?" |
| + | |
| + | Так создаются сказания и легенды. |
| + | |
| + | Такой высокий и близкий всем народам облик Иисуса сохраняют буддисты в своих горных |
| + | монастырях. И не то диво, что учения Христа и Будды сводят все народы в одну семью, но |
| + | диво то, что светлая идея общины выражена так легко и научно вливается в великую Общину |
| + | всех миров. Заветы Иисуса и Будды лежат на одной полке. И знаки древнего санскрита и |
| + | пали объединяют искания. |
| + | |
| + | Другой источник, менее известный, говорит также о жизни Иисуса в Тибете. "Около Лхасы |
| + | был храм учений, богатый рукописями. Иисус хотел ознакомиться с ними сам. Минг-Сте, |
| + | великий мудрец всего Востока, был в этом храме. Через много времени, с величайшими |
| + | опасностями, Иисус с проводником достигли этого храма в Тибете. И Минг-Сте и все учителя |
| + | широко открыли врата и приветствовали еврейского мудреца. Часто Минг-Сте беседовал с |
| + | Иисусом о грядущем веке и священной обязанности, принятой народом этого века. Наконец, |
| + | Иисус достиг горный проход, и в главном городе Ладака – Лэ он был радостно принят |
| + | монахами и людьми низкого состояния. И Иисус учил в монастырях и на базарах; там, где |
| + | собирался простой народ, – именно там он учил. |
| + | |
| + | Недалеко жила женщина, у которой умер сын, и она принесла его Иисусу. И в присутствии |
| + | множества людей он возложил руку на ребенка, и ребенок встал здоровый. И многие |
| + | приносили детей, и Иисус возлагал руки на них, излечивая их. |
| + | |
| + | Среди ладакцев Иисус провел много дней; он учил их лечению и о том, как превратить землю |
| + | в небо радости. И они полюбили его, когда пришел день ухода, печалились, как дети. И |
| + | утром пришли множества проститься с ним. |
| + | |
| + | Иисус повторял: "Я пришел показать человеческие возможности. Творимое мною все люди |
| + | могут творить. И то, что я есть, все люди будут. Эти дары принадлежат народам всех стран |
| + | – это вода и хлеб жизни". |
| + | |
| + | Сказал Иисус об искусных певцах: "Откуда их таланты и эта сила? За одну короткую жизнь, |
| + | конечно, они не могли накопить и качество голоса и знание законов созвучий. Чудеса ли |
| + | это? Нет, ибо все вещи происходят из естественных законов. Многие тысячи лет назад эти |
| + | люди уже складывали свою гармонию и качества. И они приходят опять еще учиться от всяких |
| + | проявлений". |
| + | |
| + | После жизненного облика Иисуса, сохраненного в Азии, нельзя не вспомнить слова Евсевия в |
| + | его труде "Жизнь Константина": "Чтобы придать христианству большую привлекательность в |
| + | глазах благородных, священники приняли внешние облачения и украшения, употреблявшиеся в |
| + | языческих культах". Всякий, знающий культ Митры, оценивает справедливость этого |
| + | замечания. Преданный неоплатоник, почитатель древней философии, Климент Александрийский |
| + | поучал христианских епископов. |
| + | |
| + | Незнание! Русские князья гибли в ханских ставках за нежелание почтить изображение Будды; |
| + | в то же время монастыри Тибета уже хранили прекрасные строки об Иисусе. Кирилл |
| + | Александрийский погубил подвижницу Ипатию, но именно ученику ее, Синезию, была |
| + | предложена епископия Птолемаиды, даже до принятия им крещения. |
| + | |
| + | Суеверие! Иероним советовал новообращенным христианам топтать тело их языческой матери. |
| + | |
| + | Цинизм! Папа Лев Х воскликнул: "Как полезна нам сия притча Христова!" |
| + | |
| + | Не должен быть забыт Ориген, знавший значение древних мистерий и понимавший истинный |
| + | смысл учения Иисуса. Ориген еще мог сказать словами "Деяний": "Все же верующие были все |
| + | вместе и имели все общее, продавали имения и всякую собственность и разделяли всем, |
| + | смотря по нужде каждого. И каждый день единодушно пребывали и, преломляя по домам хлеб, |
| + | принимали пищу в веселии и простоте сердца". |
| + | |
| + | Ориген знал, почему это общее благо важно, и глубоко заглядывал в истину. За это |
| + | церковь, иногда очень щедрая на звание святых, лишила его этого титула. Ибо он подходил |
| + | к учению научно и не боялся говорить об очевидном. |
| + | |
| + | В чем обвиняли Оригена? "Жития Святых" говорят: "Ориген, чудо своего века по громадности |
| + | своего ума и глубине учености, на двух Александрийских соборах и, после кончины, на |
| + | Константинопольском соборе был осужден как еретик. Ориген неправильно мыслил о многих |
| + | истинах христианской церкви. Развивая неправославное учение о предсуществовании душ, он |
| + | неправильно мыслил о Христе, полагая, что было создано определенное число духовных |
| + | существ равного достоинства, из которых один с такой пламенной любовью устремился, что |
| + | неразрывно соединился с Высшим Словом и стал его носителем на земле. Держась |
| + | еретического воззрения на воплощение Бога-Слова и сотворение мира, Ориген неправильно |
| + | понимал и крестную смерть Христову, представляя ее чем-то духовно повторяемым в духовном |
| + | мире. Ориген приписывал слишком многое действию обыкновенных сил, коими одарена наша |
| + | природа..." Хороши были соборы, которые могли говорить против бесконечного, космического |
| + | смысла материи! |
| + | |
| + | Сергий, Строитель Общин, запрещал своим сотрудникам принимать подаяния. Пища и вещи |
| + | могли быть принимаемы лишь в обмен на труд. Голодая, сам он предлагал свою работу. |
| + | Строение общины и просвещение были единственными занятиями этого замечательного |
| + | человека. Отказ от митрополичьего сана и от ношения на себе ценных металлов в его жизни |
| + | является естественным поступком без всякой рисовки. Неутомимость труда: подбор молодых, |
| + | никому неизвестных сотрудников; простота как наверху, так и внизу. Отказ от личной |
| + | собственности не по указу, но по сознанию вредности этого понятия. В списке строителей |
| + | общины Сергий сохранил большое место. |
| + | |
| + | Их не так много – строителей жизни, отвечающей во внутреннем смысле грядущей эволюции. И |
| + | бережно мы должны отбирать эти имена грядущего света, продолжая список их до |
| + | современности. |
| + | |
| + | Один из великих Махатм Индии говорит: "Вам было сказано, что наше знание ограничивается |
| + | нашею Солнечною системою; значит, как философы, желающие быть достойными этого |
| + | наименования, мы не можем ни отрицать, ни утверждать существование называемого вами |
| + | высшего, всемогущего, разумного Существа за пределами нашей Солнечной системы. Но если |
| + | такое существование и не вполне невозможно, все же, если только единообразие законов |
| + | природы не нарушается у этих пределов, мы держимся положения, что оно в высокой степени |
| + | невероятно. Тем не менее мы горячо отрицаем положение агностицизма в этом направлении |
| + | касательно нашей Солнечной системы. Наше учение не знает компромисса: либо утверждает, |
| + | либо отрицает, ибо оно учит лишь о том, что известно как истина, и поэтому мы отрицаем |
| + | Бога, как философы и как буддисты. Мы знаем, что в нашей системе нет такого существа, |
| + | как Бог, личный или безличный". |
| + | |
| + | В борении и явлении истины, на колесницах времени встают законоположенники общего блага: |
| + | неутомимый водитель Моисей; суровый Амос; Лев-Победитель – Будда; справедливость жизни – |
| + | Конфуций; огненный поэт Солнца – Зороастр; преображенный, отраженный "тенями" – Платон; |
| + | великий в жертве бессмертия – Благий Исса; толкователь мудрости, одинокий Ориген; |
| + | великий общинник и подвижник Сергий. Все ходившие неутомимо; все подлежавшие |
| + | современному преследованию; все знавшие, что учение общего блага придет непреложно; все |
| + | знавшие, что каждая жертва общему благу есть лишь приближение путей. |
| + | |
| + | На горах говорят об этих учениях и внимают им просто. И в пустынях, и в степях люди поют |
| + | в каждодневном обиходе о вечности и том же – общем благе. Жители Тибета, Монголии, |
| + | буряты – все помнят о благе общем. |
| + | |
| + | Как мыслят народы Азии? Алтайцы помнят о Белом Бурхане. Даже пострадали за ожидание его |
| + | лет двадцать тому назад. Они обращаются к Белому Бурхану – на вершине Харема: |
| + | |
| + | *Вы, сущие за белыми облаками, |
| + | За синими небесами – |
| + | Три Курбустана! |
| + | Ты, носящий четыре косы – |
| + | Белый Бурхан! |
| + | Ты, Дух Алтая – |
| + | Белый Бурхан! |
| + | |
| + | Ты, поселивший в себе, в золоте и серебре, |
| + | Народ, Белый Алтай! |
| + | Ты, который светишь днем – |
| + | Солнце-Бурхан! |
| + | Ты, который светишь ночью – |
| + | Месяц-Бурхан! |
| + | Да напишется мой зов |
| + | В книге Садур!* |
| + | |
| + | Белый Бурхан требует сжечь идолов и обещает плодородие общей земли и пастбищ. И вот |
| + | общее благо дойдет и до алтайских становищ. Так претворяют давнее предание о приходе |
| + | Будды на Алтай. Как мыслят народы Азии? Буряты поют: |
| + | |
| + | *Скажешь: Солнце, стой ты! |
| + | Что же значит его захождение? |
| + | Скажешь: век, постой ты! |
| + | Что же значит, что он стареет? |
| + | Скажешь: луна, стой ты! |
| + | Что же значит ее захождение? |
| + | Скажешь: век, постой ты! |
| + | Что же значит, что он стареет? |
| + | Скажешь: снег, останься ты! |
| + | Что же значит его таяние? |
| + | Скажешь: старцы, останьтесь вы! |
| + | Что же значит их отправление? |
| + | Скажешь: облако, стой ты! |
| + | Что же значит, что оно скрывается? |
| + | Скажешь: старцы, стойте вы! |
| + | Что же значит их отшествие? |
| + | Монголы поют: |
| + | Тот, кто не имеет вещей, которые он |
| + | собирал бы корыстолюбиво, |
| + | Не имеет вещей, с которыми не хватит |
| + | у него сил расстаться, |
| + | Кто твердо мыслит – |
| + | Обладает прочным и прекрасным |
| + | наслаждением.* |
| + | |
| + | Да, Азия мыслит твердо. И под чалмою, и под феской, и под тюбетейкой – находчивый ум и |
| + | уменье богато применяемое. Древние китайцы сохранили прекрасный гимн Матери Солнца, |
| + | называя ее Владычицей Востока. |
| + | |
| + | *Горы, 1925.* |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
| /dev/null .. ru/books/1/25.md | |
| @@ 0,0 1,634 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 25 |
| + | |
| + | В древних китайских сторожевых башнях были находимы среди манускриптов словари и |
| + | биографии знаменитых женщин. На далеких границах были такие устремления. |
| + | |
| + | Когда уже знаете красоты Азии, уже знаете всю насыщенность красок ее, и все-таки они |
| + | опять поражают, опять возносят чувства. И самое недосягаемое становится возможным. |
| + | |
| + | Мухи, москиты, блохи, уховертки! Всякие дары Кашмира. Уход наш был не без крови. В |
| + | Тангмарге банда негодяев напала на наш караван и начала железными палками избивать наших |
| + | людей; семерых повредила. Пришлось с револьверами и маузерами оберегать порядок. За |
| + | выход из Кашмира можно и заплатить. Заплатили и вышли. В Гунде конюхи накормили коней |
| + | ядовитой травою; кони начали дрожать и легли. Всю ночь их выхаживали. Особенно |
| + | пострадали мой Мастан и Сабза Юрия. Погонщики развели костры вокруг ящика с патронами. В |
| + | палатку под постель Юрия заползла дикая кошка. Много мух, москитов, блох и уховерток, и |
| + | "шайтанов" в Кашмире. |
| + | |
| + | Пришел Саттар-хан (караванщик), привел пять оборванцев: "Это особая стража от деревни. |
| + | Поблизости ходят африди (из Афгана). Могут грабить". Оборванцы спали около палаток. |
| + | Никто грабить не пришел. |
| + | |
| + | Древние готы не сравнивали ли Тироль с Кашмиром? Или с Рейном? Ажурна, непрочна красота |
| + | Кашмира. Трудно представить себя в мощной Азии. Дальше, дальше – туда, к скалам и |
| + | янтарным пескам. |
| + | |
| + | Мокрый, ненастный Балтал. Не успели раскинуть мокрые палатки, как является новая |
| + | провокация. Приходит полицейский с рапортом о том, что наши люди только что уничтожили |
| + | санитарный пост и тяжко оскорбили врача. По счастью, сторож почтовой станции не |
| + | подтвердил это злую выдумку. Повторяем нашим людям не отвечать ни на какие оскорбления. |
| + | Караванщики заставили лишний день простоять в Балтале из-за боязни обвалов на Соджи. |
| + | Толковали, ходили на гору и с трудом решились тронуться. Никаких обвалов не было, хотя, |
| + | как всегда на горных карнизах, могли быть отдельные падающие камни. На перевале, как |
| + | всегда, ледяной ветер. Шуба делается легче газа. |
| + | |
| + | Балтистанец заболел животом. По неосторожности ему дали коньяку. Немедленно "заболели" |
| + | еще трое; а когда им дали очистительного, они стали требовать того же лекарства, как и |
| + | первому. |
| + | |
| + | Около Драса в поле работали замечательно красивые женщины. Арабский тип, одеты в черные |
| + | рубахи, на головах черная повязка. Думали, что это дарды, но, говорят, это африди, |
| + | пришедшие на летние пастбища из Афгана; те самые, которых боятся. |
| + | |
| + | Рассказы, как уничтожаются караваны: один тибетский караван был захвачен сининским |
| + | амбанем. Другой был уничтожен полностью монгольским Дже-ламой, который, начав |
| + | национальным деятелем, кончил феодальным бандитом. Его хошуны до сих пор грабят в |
| + | Цайдаме. |
| + | |
| + | Рассказы о высоких процентах, взимаемых китайцами. Чиновники и офицеры все дают деньги в |
| + | рост, беря до 20 процентов месячных. Ужасно. |
| + | |
| + | Идут встречные караваны. Всякие народы – дарды, балтистанцы, ладакцы, асторцы, яркендцы. |
| + | Языки совершенно различны. Точно переселение народов. |
| + | |
| + | Показалась береза – белая сестра. Встречный старик опять говорит об обвале на Соджи. |
| + | Будто идти нельзя. Пошлем шикари разведать. Из-за оползней просидели день в Балтале. |
| + | Много ядовитых трав в Балтале, и все эти травы принимают благонамеренный вид. Опасно |
| + | для коней. |
| + | На Соджи выпал снег – очень рано для половины августа. |
| + | |
| + | После Соджи все изменилось. Позади остался Кашмир со всеми его ядовитыми травами, |
| + | холерою и насекомыми. Пройдя ледяные мосты над гремящею рекою, прошли как бы в иную |
| + | страну. И народ честнее, и ручьи здоровые, и травы целебные, и камни многоцветные. И в |
| + | самом воздухе бодрость. Утром – крепкие заморозки. В полдень – ясный сухой жар. Скалы |
| + | пурпурные и зеленоватые. Травы золотятся, как богатые ковры. И недра гор, и приречный |
| + | ил, и целебные ароматные злаки – все готово принести дары. Здесь возможны большие |
| + | решения. |
| + | |
| + | После Драса встретили первую буддийскую весть. Около дороги две каменные стелы, |
| + | изображающие Майтрейю. Около них камень с изображением всадника. Не на белом ли коне |
| + | этот всадник? Не вестник ли нового мира? Значительно, что первым буддийским знамением |
| + | является именно облик Майтрейи. |
| + | |
| + | В Маульбеке мы побывали в типичном тибетском доме старого уклада. Взошли по приставной |
| + | лестнице, как по подъемному мосту. Домашняя моленная, запах курений. |
| + | Степенная вдова – хозяйка. С балконов – прекрасный вид со всеми горами и фантастикой |
| + | песчаных изваяний. Тихие горницы. На полу, около двери, девушка выжимает растительное |
| + | масло для лампад. За спиной у нее шкура яка, на голове тяжелый убор из бирюзы. |
| + | |
| + | В Драсе лишь первый знак Майтрейи. Но в древнем Маульбеке гигантское изображение |
| + | Грядущего стоит властно при пути. Каждый путник должен пройти мимо этой скалы. Две руки |
| + | к небу, как зов дальних миров. Две руки вниз, как благословение земли. Знают, Майтрейя |
| + | идет. Не об этом ли гигантском изображении писал Фа Сянь в своих дневниках? Похоже! |
| + | |
| + | Монастырь Маульбек с двумя храмами и бесчисленными развалинами венчает скалы необычно |
| + | героическим аккордом. Как драгоценный бронзовый слиток! И спит страна забытого |
| + | геройства. Забыта легенда Геродота о муравьях, приносящих золото с берегов Инда. Но |
| + | кто-то помнит об этом золоте. И Гессер-хан в срок обещает открыть золотые поля людям, |
| + | которые сумеют достойно встретить грядущее время Майтрейи – век общего блага. Век |
| + | мировой общины, завещанный самим Буддою. |
| + | |
| + | Ладакские погонщики буддисты перед каждой едой моют руки, голову и полощут рот. И поют |
| + | звонко и радостно. И мой черный конюх начинает пляс по дороге. Идем весело. Замечаем |
| + | краски и профили скал. |
| + | |
| + | Те, кто строил Ламаюру и Маульбек, знали, что такое истинная красота и бесстрашие. Перед |
| + | таким размахом, перед такой декоративностью тускнеют итальянские города. И эти |
| + | торжественные ряды ступ, как радостные светильники, на турмалиновых песках. Где вы |
| + | найдете такую декорацию, как замок "Тигровая вышка" или бесчисленные развалины замков |
| + | около Тибетского Карбу, увенчавшие все утесы? Где же страна, равная этим забытым местам? |
| + | Будем справедливы и преклонимся перед истинной красотою. |
| + | |
| + | Поразительно! В Ламаюре, в этой твердыне не только красной секты и даже бон-по, в ряду |
| + | прочих изображений стоит большое изображение Майтрейи. Поставлено около 200 лет назад. |
| + | Даже сюда проникло это знание. Только Майтрейя прочно связывает махаяну с хинаяной, |
| + | включая Цейлон. В этом почитании соединились желтая и красная секты. Есть величие в этом |
| + | почитании будущего. |
| + | |
| + | Встречные караваны приветствуют друг друга. Всегда спросят: "Откуда?" Никогда не |
| + | спросят: "Кто вы?" Личность уже тонет в движении. Над караваном несутся возгласы |
| + | "шабаш", т.е. хороший конец, или "каварда", то есть опасность, внимание. И правда, по |
| + | крутым откосам желто-гремящего Инда всегда могут быть жесткие потоки щебня, могущие |
| + | смести коня в кипень потока. |
| + | |
| + | Саспул, открытое, веселое место. Кругом много монастырей. При самой дороге маленький |
| + | монастырь, а в нем гигантское изображение сидящего Майтрейи. По бокам тоже гиганты – |
| + | Манджушри и Авалокитешвара. В переднем храме древняя каменная стела с теми же |
| + | изображениями (век Х или ранее). Лама при храме сознательно говорит о Майтрейе. Храм |
| + | этот мало отмечен описаниями. |
| + | |
| + | Майтрейя стоит как символ будущего. Но видели и знаки прошлого. На скалах изображение |
| + | оленей, круторогих горных козлов и коней. |
| + | |
| + | Где мы видели такие же изображения? На камнях Северной Америки, на сибирских скалах. Та |
| + | же техника, та же стилизация и то же уважение к животным. Людских изображений мало. |
| + | Видели лишь одного стрелка из лука и какую-то вереницу людей, может быть, ритуальную. |
| + | Через эти изображения Америка и Азия протягивают руку друг другу. На стене полугрота, |
| + | где мы остановились на отдых, рука неведомых путников также оставила изображение |
| + | животных. |
| + | |
| + | Базго – старинный монастырь на острых скалах. Такую причудливую линию без всякой |
| + | мелочности – редко встретишь. |
| + | |
| + | В деревнях ладакских не пахнет гадко. Наоборот, часто слышны запахи курения, дикая мята, |
| + | шалфей, яблоки и абрикосы. |
| + | |
| + | Прошли Калацзе. Там на мосту была прибита рука "разбойника" Сукамира, пытавшегося |
| + | завоевать Ладак для Кашмира. Кошка съела кровожадную руку, и пришлось позаимствовать |
| + | руку у умершего ламы, чтобы символ не пострадал. В Калацзе – уже миссионеры. |
| + | |
| + | Расположение станов от Шринагара до Лэ: Гандербал, Канган, Гунд, Сонамарг, Балтал |
| + | (Соджи), Матайан, Драс, Карбу, Каргил, Маульбек, Тибетское Карбу, Ламаюра, Нурла, Саспул |
| + | (Базго), Ниму. Последний можно пропустить, если ночлег в Лэ подготовлен. |
| + | |
| + | Пшеница не боится 12 000 футов (≈3600 м) высоты, а ячмень освоился с 15 000 футов (≈ |
| + | 4600 м). Лошадей вместо овса кормят ячменем. Какой-то ветеринар доказывал, что ячмень |
| + | очень вреден коням, но весь Тибет на деле доказал обратное. |
| + | |
| + | За время войны и революции усилилась торговля Туркестан – Индия. В Лэ назначен особый |
| + | торговый агент, бывший политический инспектор Гилгита. |
| + | |
| + | Ягнятники бородатые, орланы и пустельги коричневым золотом летают на сапфирах и |
| + | турмалинах гор. |
| + | |
| + | На Новый год тибетцы приносят Будде свежепроцветшую зелень, ведь тибетский Новый год в |
| + | начале февраля. В это время в Лхасе уже готовятся к полевым работам. Что же лучше и |
| + | свежее, как устремление поднести Будде, нежели свежие ростки, эти первые вести |
| + | проснувшейся жизни? |
| + | |
| + | Или брать так, как есть, в полной действительности, или предаться в личное суеверие. |
| + | Конечно, драгоценна действительность. Но тогда нужно взять истинные жизненные факты. Эти |
| + | факты принесут и трогательную зелень Будде; принесут и мечты о единении народов. |
| + | Принесут построение новых союзов. А другие факты покажут, как мелочно благополучие |
| + | бухгалтера и как лицемерны поцелуи Лиги Наций. А проверить эти факты можно лишь в |
| + | пустыне, вне пределов досягаемости, вне сферы влияния; где нет ни клеветников, ни |
| + | лжецов; где думается все заново; где решения не зависят ни от каких изжитых |
| + | постановлений. |
| + | |
| + | Смотрим на неисчерпаемо богатые формы скал. Замечаем, где и как рождались образцы |
| + | изображений символов. Природа безвыходно диктовала эпос и все его богатые атрибуты. |
| + | Нужно показать, как вливаются формы изображений в горную обстановку. Именно эти формы, |
| + | нарочитые на Западе, здесь начинают жить и делаются убедительными. То вы ждете появления |
| + | Гуаньинь, то готова разрушительная стихия для Лхамо, то лик Махакалы может выдвинуться |
| + | из массива утеса. И сколько очарованных каменных витязей ожидают освобождения! Сколько |
| + | заповедных шлемов и мечей притаилось в ущельях! Это не неправдоподобный Дюрандаль из |
| + | Рокамадуры, это подлинная трагедия и подвиг жизни. И Бругума Гессер-хана сродни |
| + | Брунгильде Зигфрида. Изворотливый Локи бежит по огненным скалам. А под огромным |
| + | баньяновым деревом сидит в оранжевом плаще саньясин, тот самый и так же точно, как во |
| + | времена Готамы Будды. |
| + | |
| + | По горам звучит "Ковка меча" и "Клич Валькирий", и "Заклятие огня", и "Рычание Фафнира". |
| + | Помню, как-то Стравинский собрался уничтожить Вагнера. Нет, Игорь, этот героический |
| + | реализм, эти созвучия подвига не уничтожить. И музыка Вагнера тоже настоящая, и в горах |
| + | она звучит необычайно. Регтаймы, фокстроты Вагнера не поглотят. На утесах Тироля и на |
| + | пизанской вилле Вагнер исполнился настоящего энтузиазма, и его объем годится для высот |
| + | Азии. А человечество все-таки живет красотою. |
| + | |
| + | Необыкновенный огонь в местечке Ниму. Я был разбужен криком Е.И.: "Огонь, огонь!" |
| + | Просыпаюсь, вижу силуэт Е.И. на фоне колеблющегося синеватого пламени. Постепенно огонь |
| + | прекратился. Оказывается, когда Е.И. подошла к постели и прикоснулась к одеялу – |
| + | вспыхнуло синеватое пламя, теплое, без запаха. Е.И. пробовала тушить руками, но пламя |
| + | разгоралось все сильней, и тогда она крикнула мне. Огонь прекратился так же, как и |
| + | начался, без малейшего следа на вещах. Незабываемо это перебегающее пламя, неопаляющее и |
| + | яркое. Палатка была вся освещена. Как всегда при феноменах, лишь после мы могли обсудить |
| + | необычайные подробности этого огня. |
| + | |
| + | Д-р Франке приводит рассказ его тибетского спутника в верховьях Инда при виде некоторых |
| + | высот: "За ними лежит Ба-юль, страна высоких существ. Только высоко развитые люди могут |
| + | нечто узнать о жизни в этом Ба-юль. Но если простой человек приближается к снеговым |
| + | границам, он иногда слышит только непонятные ему голоса". |
| + | |
| + | Ладакская песнь: |
| + | |
| + | *Через врата Востока вошла индийская вера. |
| + | |
| + | Скажите, прошли вы путь священного слова? |
| + | |
| + | Персидское царство строит врата Юга. |
| + | |
| + | Следовали вы ими? |
| + | |
| + | Небесная весть Китая открывает нам западные врата. |
| + | |
| + | Как вы прошли путь китайского знака? |
| + | |
| + | И врата Севера принадлежат Гессер-хану. |
| + | |
| + | Как прошли вы путь удара меча? |
| + | |
| + | Прошли ли вы через врата, ведущие к Лхасе, |
| + | |
| + | Куда ведет путь искателей истины? |
| + | |
| + | Восток – врата Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Там, почитая священное слово и обычай, отдохнули мы. |
| + | |
| + | Персидское государство владеет воротами Юга. |
| + | |
| + | Там мы почтили границу благородных. |
| + | |
| + | Небесная весть Китая открыла нам западные врата. |
| + | |
| + | Подтверждая сроки, нам дала счастье. |
| + | |
| + | Врата к воителю Гессеру на севере. |
| + | |
| + | В звоне мечей мы прошли эти народы. |
| + | |
| + | И вратами Лхасы, ища истину, мы прошли, |
| + | |
| + | В молчании испытывая дух наш.* |
| + | |
| + | Географические странности песни, очевидно, происходят от разноплеменных наслоений. |
| + | |
| + | Вот красивая ладакская песнь: |
| + | |
| + | *Кто удостоен мудростью, а кто лишь приходом сюда. |
| + | |
| + | Некоторые вообще ничего не могут, потому нужно испытать себя здесь. |
| + | |
| + | Если кто уже приходит с мудростью, в том особое благо. |
| + | |
| + | Нуждается высокий в мудрости девятизначной? |
| + | |
| + | И нуждается ли в том же посредственный? |
| + | |
| + | Приходите вы как друзья высокого рода или вам нужен лишь кошелек? |
| + | |
| + | Пришли вы без угрозы? |
| + | |
| + | Хотите ли договор дружбы? |
| + | |
| + | Есть три рода врагов. |
| + | |
| + | Есть три рода друзей. |
| + | |
| + | Хотите ли их перечесть? |
| + | |
| + | Есть три врага: |
| + | |
| + | Враг, который посылает болезнь, |
| + | |
| + | Враг, ненавидящий дух, |
| + | |
| + | Враг, мстящий кроваво. |
| + | |
| + | Мы не врагами пришли, |
| + | |
| + | Мы вам друзья. |
| + | |
| + | Трех друзей называем: |
| + | |
| + | Освободитель наш Будда, |
| + | |
| + | Союз дружной семьи, |
| + | |
| + | Любви и крови союз. |
| + | |
| + | Вот три рода друзей. |
| + | |
| + | Именно так.* |
| + | |
| + | Вспоминаем прекрасную книжечку Клода Брэгдона "Эпизоды из незаписанной истории". Могли |
| + | бы доставить ему еще несколько эпизодов. Всегда приятно встретиться с Брэгдоном. Все, |
| + | что он делает, так искренно и так тонко. |
| + | |
| + | Обратите внимание на сочетание Гуаньинь, Арья-Бало – Авалокитешвара. Гессер настаивает |
| + | на постройке храма Арья-Бало. |
| + | |
| + | Имя Гессера дошло до Волги (Астрахань). |
| + | |
| + | Гессера объединяют с Ассуром. |
| + | |
| + | Храм Гессер-хана был выстроен на месте явления Авалокитешвары. |
| + | |
| + | Ордосцы ставят перед домом знамена пятицветные – в цвета радуги, ожидая приход великого |
| + | существа – "Тенгирас Очиртай". |
| + | |
| + | Настоятель монастыря Утайшаня в книге "Красный путь в Шамбалу" описывает многие |
| + | подробности пути в это заповеданное место. В конце характерна подробность, что путник |
| + | видел на самой границе охраненного места караван монголов с солью, причем они не |
| + | подозревали близости жилья. |
| + | |
| + | Бурятский лама сообщает, что когда он шел в Шамбалу, то его вели подземным ходом. Ход |
| + | иногда так сужался, что с трудом могли протолкнуть племенного барана, которого вели в |
| + | заповеданное место. |
| + | |
| + | Монгольские ламы указывают несколько "охраненных" мест в пределах Хангая и Гоби. Туда |
| + | приходили спешные посланцы из Гималаев. |
| + | |
| + | Около Калацзе указывают многие места, посвященные имени Гессер-хана: |
| + | |
| + | 1. Гаруда – Гессер-хана; 2. Седло Гессера; 3. Бубен Бругумы – жены Гессера; 4. Прялка |
| + | Бругумы; 5. Замок Гессер-хана – высокая скала, белое пятно является знаком двери. |
| + | |
| + | У Сумура на скале изображение увенчанного льва. Этот лев – на тибетских военных |
| + | знаменах. |
| + | |
| + | Монголы говорят о скором приходе "Меру". |
| + | |
| + | Весною в Ладаке бывает праздник Гессера с пеньем и стрельбою из лука. Из названий песен |
| + | сплетается целый венок Гессера. |
| + | |
| + | Запомним названия: "Гессер-победитель", "Гессер и клад великанов", "Мудрость Бругумы", |
| + | "Отец и Мать всемогущие", "Возвращение Гессера и Бругумы", "Голоса неба", "Заклятие |
| + | стрелы", "Четыре победы Гессера", "Молитва Гессера на вершине Шрар", "Гессер – владыка |
| + | молнии", "Победная песнь Гессера", "Хвала Гессеру". |
| + | |
| + | Одни названия являют путь народного сознания, народного достоинства и мечту о герое |
| + | свободы. |
| + | |
| + | И ладакцы и монголы ждут борцов и строителей жизни. Наделяют их не только львиным |
| + | мужеством, но и змеиною хитростью и неутомимостью оленя. Как чудесно наблюдать рост |
| + | сознания и чеканку его в героических символах! |
| + | |
| + | Изображения на скалах можно отнести к трем периодам: неолит, древняя вера бон-по, |
| + | суеверия более позднего времени. В самой технике изображений можно отличить твердую, |
| + | сочную стилизацию древности и более сухую, резкую линию поздних рисунков. |
| + | |
| + | Имя Ориона часто связывается с повествованиями о Гессер-хане. На Алтае гору Белуху |
| + | называют Уч-Сюре. Уч-Орион. Сюре – жилище богов, соответствует монгольской Сумер и |
| + | индийской Сумеру. На гору Уч-Сюре восходят по белому хадаку. Небесная птица на горе |
| + | Уч-Сюре победила дракона. Цаган-убугун – белый старик – всегда близок к Большой |
| + | Медведице. |
| + | |
| + | Говорят в караванах, что монгольские солдаты – цирики – носят особые знамена и поют |
| + | сложенный ими гимн о наступлении времени Шамбалы. |
| + | |
| + | Из края в край, из уст в уста. |
| + | |
| + | Не хочется давать здешним изображениям этнографический или географический характер. |
| + | Пусть они идут как знамена: "Святыни и твердыни". Пусть своим общим тоном героизма и |
| + | подвига они скажут об этом крае. |
| + | |
| + | Могущественен монастырь Спитуг. Первый – из учения Дзон-Капы. Не развалины, но живая и |
| + | работающая община. Настоятель монастыря и его сотрудники знающи и поражающе понятливы. |
| + | Вы еще не кончили мысль, а они уже готовы продолжить ее правильно. В Спитуге изображение |
| + | Майтрейи и знание пророчеств. В отделении Спитуга в Лэ, в особом помещении стоит большое |
| + | изображение Дуккар – Матери Мира, с бесчисленными глазами всеведения и со стрелою |
| + | справедливости. По правую руку ее – Майтрейя Грядущий. По левую руку – многорукое |
| + | изображение Авалокитешвары, этого коллектива Братства Великой Общины. Запомните такое |
| + | сочетание этих трех символов. Это сочетание не было отмечено и объяснено. |
| + | |
| + | Хороша стенопись в обоих Спитугах – крепкие тона и чутье пропорций. Обещали достать нам |
| + | того же художника, который писал эти звучные стены. |
| + | |
| + | К нашей стоянке подъехал миссионер из Яркенда. Только на яках перешел Кардонг и утерял |
| + | понятие о времени. Часы у него остановились. Повторял: "Потрясающе трудный путь". |
| + | Говорил, что особенно труден Кардонг и Сассер. Каракорум хотя и выше, но легче. Хвалил |
| + | народ Туркестана. Сообщил, что амбань уже ждет нас и считает своими гостями. |
| + | |
| + | Прекрасно расположен монастырь Ше в семи милях от Лэ. Огромная, в два этажа фигура |
| + | Будды. Лучшая стенопись из всего виденного. |
| + | |
| + | В Трикше тоже большие изображения Будды, Майтрейи и Манджушри. Живопись несколько проще. |
| + | Хороших приветливых лам не видели. Был только один монгольский старый лама, но, видимо, |
| + | не вполне нормален, судя по его страшному смеху. |
| + | |
| + | Нужно видеть и обратную сторону буддизма – поезжайте в Хеми. Подъезжая, уже чуете |
| + | атмосферу мрачности и подавленности. Ступы с какими-то страшными ликами – рожами. Темные |
| + | знамена. Черные вороны летают вокруг, черные псы гложут кости. И ущелье тесно смыкается. |
| + | Конечно, и храмы, и дома – все скучено вместе. И в темных углах навалены предметы |
| + | служения, точно награбленная добыча. Ламы полуграмотны. Наш охотник проводник смеется: |
| + | "Хеми – имя большое, а монастырь маленький". Конечно, маленький не размерами, но |
| + | внутренним содержанием. Вот оно – суеверие и корысть! Лучшее было, что на близкие острые |
| + | скалы утром выходили олени и долго стояли, поводя головой навстречу солнцу. |
| + | |
| + | Монастырь старый. Основан большим ламою, оставившим книгу о Шамбале. И лежат эти |
| + | манускрипты под спудом; может быть, кормят собою мышей. |
| + | |
| + | О манускриптах об Иисусе сперва полное отрицание. К нашему удивлению, отрицание прежде |
| + | всего идет из миссионерских кругов. Потом понемногу ползут отрывочные, боязливые |
| + | сведения, очень трудно добываемые. Наконец, выясняется, что о манускриптах слыхали и |
| + | знают старые люди Ладака. |
| + | |
| + | Такие документы, как манускрипты о Христе и книга о Шамбале, лежат в самом "темном" |
| + | месте. И фигура ламы – составителя книги о Шамбале стоит, как идол, в каком-то |
| + | фантастическом уборе. И сколько еще других реликвий погибает по пыльным углам. И |
| + | тантрикам-ламам нет до них дела. Надо было видеть и обратную сторону буддизма. |
| + | |
| + | И как легко убрать эту грязь и пыль изуверства! Как легко привести в порядок звучную |
| + | стенопись! Как легко очистить тонко сделанные статуи! Не трудно вернуть организации |
| + | монастырей к смыслу трудящихся общин, по завету великого Льва (Синха) – Будды. |
| + | |
| + | "Я ладакский король", – к нам пришел худощавый, стройный человек в тибетском костюме. |
| + | Это бывший король Ладака, завоеванного кашмирцами. Тонкое, интеллигентное лицо. Сейчас |
| + | имеет очень ограниченные средства. И вот мы сидим за чаем, говорим о том, что желтая и |
| + | красная секты во многих отношениях теперь почти одно и то же. Говорим о старинных вещах, |
| + | о тонкости работы. Король приглашает осмотреть его дворец, высоко поднявшийся на скале |
| + | над Лэ. |
| + | |
| + | Ходим по крутым, осыпающимся лестницам. Минуем темные переходы. Застываем от радости на |
| + | террасах и балконах, где раскинулся вид на все горы и песчаные взгорья. Сгибаемся, входя |
| + | в низкие дверки, ведущие в домашний храм. Храм посвящен Дуккар – светлой Матери Мира. В |
| + | середине опять ее изображение. По правую руку – Будда. |
| + | |
| + | Хотя король сейчас живет в Доге, в летнем помещении, но перед изображениями стоят свежие |
| + | цветы. По стенам висят много очень тонких колоритных знамен. Общий уровень живописи |
| + | здесь выше, чем в Сиккиме. Большое влияние Ташилунпо. |
| + | |
| + | Около дворца в отдельном храме помещается гигантское изображение Майтрейи. Стенопись там |
| + | очень величественна. Часто стенопись Италии или русских церквей бывала или мелка или |
| + | обща по пятнам; но здесь бросилось в глаза необычайное сочетание широты понимания общих |
| + | пятен с богатыми деталями. Изображение Майтрейи – на двух этажах. До пояса – на нижнем, |
| + | Лик – на верхнем. Может быть, это разделение статуи сделано позднейшими соображениями, |
| + | но идейно оно очень знаменательно. Приходящий человек как бы не мог охватить сразу все |
| + | величие символа. Надо подняться на следующий этаж, чтобы достичь Лика – как бы высшего |
| + | мира. Нижний этаж тонет в сумраке, а наверху через узкие окна (без стекол) вливаются |
| + | лучи яркого, всепроникающего солнца. Опять около вас многообразия ступ, сверкающий песок |
| + | и причудливой работы ворота. |
| + | |
| + | Приходит монгольский лама и с ним новая волна вестей. В Лхасе ждут наш приезд. В |
| + | монастырях толкуют о пророчествах. Отличный лама, уже побывал от Урги до Цейлона. Как |
| + | глубоко проникающа эта организация лам! |
| + | |
| + | Толкуем с ламой про бывший с нами случай около Дарджилинга. Надо записать. Ехали в |
| + | моторе около монастыря Гум. Навстречу показался в портшезе, несомом четырьмя слугами в |
| + | белых одеяниях, лама в чудесном, прекрасном облачении с короной на голове. Светлое, |
| + | приветливое лицо с небольшой черной бородой. Мотор должен был задержаться, и лама |
| + | улыбался и радостно кивал нам головою. Мы думали, что это важный настоятель большого |
| + | монастыря. После узнали, что в портшезе лам не носят. Корону в пути ламы не надевают. И |
| + | в таких прекрасных одеяниях ламы в Сиккиме вообще не появляются. Никто о таком ламе не |
| + | слыхал, и подобного лица мы нигде не нашли. Шофер задержал машину, объезжая ламу, что |
| + | позволило четко заметить лицо его. |
| + | |
| + | Последнее бегство таши-ламы носило героический характер. Триста вооруженных лам |
| + | сопровождали идейного беглеца. Каждый из них и сам таши-лама вел в поводу запасную |
| + | лошадь, ибо бегство было спешным и отовсюду грозила погоня. Вовремя получилась весть о |
| + | пятистах лхасских всадниках, спешивших перерезать путь из Лхасы на перевал Нагчу. Успели |
| + | свернуть в сторону и пробраться ущельем. Поднялась снежная буря, и погоня была отрезана. |
| + | |
| + | Так, в полном вооружении, при непрестанной скачке, совершился исторический выезд – |
| + | исполнение древних пророчеств, таких значительных для будущего. По свидетельству |
| + | очевидца – монаха живописца гелонга Чампа Таши, таши-лама взял с собою из Ташилунпо |
| + | только картины Шамбалы. Из них две он дал по пути известным хутухтам. И в Ладаке, здесь, |
| + | был Ринпоче из Чумби, который говорил, что теперь единственный кратчайший путь – через |
| + | Шамбалу. Во многих монастырях воздвигаются и возобновляются изображения Майтрейи. |
| + | |
| + | По рукам местных жителей ходят пророчества и новые указы. С волнением они сравнивают |
| + | сроки, которые уже исполнились. И они готовятся и ждут, ждут, ждут... |
| + | |
| + | Кто-то приходит вечером и шепчет о новой рукописи о Шамбале. Просим его принести ее. |
| + | |
| + | Нужно побывать здесь, чтобы понять происходящее. Нужно заглянуть в глаза этих |
| + | приходящих, чтобы понять, как насущно для них значение Шамбалы. И сроки событий для них |
| + | не любопытная странность, но связаны с построением будущего. Если даже иногда эти |
| + | построения запылены и извращены, но сущность их свежа и движет умы. Следя за развитием |
| + | мысли, вы познаете мечты и надежды. Из этих фрагментов сложится реальный отъезд |
| + | таши-ламы, многозначительный, полный возможностей. Новая пряжа мира. |
| + | |
| + | За три года до отъезда таши-лама велел расписать стены его внутренних помещений. В этой |
| + | росписи в ясных символах изображены странствования таши-ламы в некоторых странах. |
| + | |
| + | По всему Ладаку рассеяны камни с изображением креста, вероятно, друидическими или |
| + | несторианскими. Эта древнейшая и теперь заброшенная страна хранит знаки друидов и |
| + | всевозможные позднейшие символы. |
| + | |
| + | Недалеко от места Будды имеются древнейшие могилы. Их называют древнедардскими могилами. |
| + | Время их, конечно, значительно старее тысячелетия. |
| + | |
| + | В один день три сведения о рукописи об Иисусе. Индус говорит: "Я слыхал от одного из |
| + | ладакских официальных лиц со слов бывшего настоятеля монастыря Хеми, что в Лэ было |
| + | дерево и маленький пруд, около которого Иисус учил". (Какая-то новая версия о дереве и |
| + | пруде, ранее не слышанная.) |
| + | |
| + | Миссионер говорит: "Нелепая выдумка, сочиненная поляком, сидевшим в Хеми несколько |
| + | месяцев". (Спрашивается, зачем сочиненная? Почему совпавшая с другими версиями и |
| + | доводами?) |
| + | |
| + | Еще один говорит: "Этот манускрипт, не есть ли это несторианское предание? Среди них |
| + | были очень древние и подлинные. Но миссионеры об этом ничего не знают". |
| + | |
| + | Так обсуждается манускрипт. Так медленно выплывают сведения. Главное же – необычайная |
| + | глубина текста и прекрасное отношение к нему со стороны лам по всему Востоку. |
| + | |
| + | Хороший и чуткий индус значительно говорит о манускрипте жизни Иссы: "Почему всегда |
| + | направляют Иссу на время его отсутствия из Палестины в Египет? Его молодые годы, |
| + | конечно, прошли в изучении. Следы изучения, конечно, сказались на его последующих |
| + | проповедях. К каким же истокам ведут эти проповеди? Что в них египетского? И неужели не |
| + | видны следы буддизма, Индии? Не понятно, почему так яростно отрицается хождение Иссы |
| + | караванным путем в Индию и в область, занимаемую ныне Тибетом". |
| + | |
| + | Учения Индии славились далеко; вспомним хотя бы жизнеописание Аполлония Тианского и его |
| + | посещения индийских мудрецов. |
| + | |
| + | Другой собеседник напоминает, что в Сирии найдена плита с вырезанным эдиктом |
| + | правительства о преследовании последователей Иисуса как врагов правительства. Эта |
| + | археологическая находка любопытна для тех, кот отрицает историчность Иисуса-Общинника. |
| + | Не то ли самое подтверждают маленькие особые монетки – знаки, употреблявшиеся первыми |
| + | христианами в катакомбах. А древнейшие катакомбы еще существуют до сих пор. |
| + | |
| + | Есть такие любители нагло отрицать, если что-нибудь трудно принимается их сознанием. Но |
| + | ведь тогда и знание обращается в семинарскую схоластику, а природная потребность клеветы |
| + | достигает высокой техники. Каким образом недавняя подделка могла проникнуть в сознание |
| + | всего Востока? И где тот ученый, который написал длинное изложение на пали и |
| + | по-тибетски? Такого не знаем. |
| + | |
| + | Лама каждый день удивляет и радует нас. Столько он видел, столько он знает и так |
| + | определенно разбирается в людях. Только что принес сведение, что одно очень близкое нам |
| + | имя упоминается в старых пророчествах. Нет в ламе ни чуточки ханжества, и для защиты |
| + | основ он готов и оружие взять. Шепнет: |
| + | |
| + | "Не говорите этому человеку – все разболтает", или: "А теперь я лучше уйду". И ничего |
| + | лишнего не чувствуется за его побуждениями. И как легок он на передвижение! |
| + | |
| + | Лэ – место замечательное. Здесь предание соединило пути Будды и Христа. Будда шел через |
| + | Лэ на север. Исса беседовал здесь с народом по пути из Тибета. Тайно и тщательно |
| + | хранимые предания. Трудно нащупать их, ибо ламы умеют молчать лучше всех людей. Только |
| + | найдя общий язык – не только внешне физический, но и внутреннего понимания – можно |
| + | приблизиться к их многозначительным тайнам. Как пришлось убедиться, каждый образованный |
| + | гелонг-монах знает очень много. Даже по глазам не догадаетесь, когда он согласен с вами |
| + | или внутренне смеется над вами, зная более, чем вы. Сколько у этих молчальников есть |
| + | рассказов о проезжих "ученых", попавших в самые смешные положения. И сколько ошибок |
| + | незнания вынесла печатная бумага Европы. Пришла пора просветления Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Прекрасные голоса у ладакцев. Наряды – странно напоминают русско-византийские уборы. |
| + | Часто вместо шкуры за плечами – расшитая узорами матерчатая накидка, дающая впечатление |
| + | древнего корзно (византийская мантия-накидка). Высокие, расшитые шапки, точно боярские. |
| + | За поясом металлическое хранилище для пера и пара свирелей, наполняющих вечернее время |
| + | зовущими мелодиями. Во время полевых работ – на головах венки из ячменя и цветов. И |
| + | песни – такие звонкие, радостные, как природа Ладака. |
| + | |
| + | Опять приехал король Ладака. В результате мы поживем в его замке. С этого места поучений |
| + | Иссы, с террас высоких, надо написать серию всего, что видно оттуда. На высоких, |
| + | очищенных ветрами местах бывали знаки больших общений. Конечно, места изменились: |
| + | разрушения и созидания сменяли друг друга. Завоеватели наносили новые нагромождения, но |
| + | основной силуэт остался невредимым. Горние обрамления так же как и прежде венчают землю, |
| + | те же сверкающие звезды и волны песков, как застывшее море. И оглушающий, отрывающий от |
| + | земли ветер... |
| + | |
| + | Вот и место Будды. Оно изглажено временем. Предание говорит об "очень большом и древнем |
| + | строении"; но теперь лишь устои утесов и щебень напоминают о разрушении. Старые тесаные |
| + | камни пошли на постройку позднейших ступ, которые в свою очередь успели рассыпаться. |
| + | Одно лишь обстоятельство несомненно – вы стоите на месте древнего строения. Невдалеке |
| + | старинная деревня и остроконечная груда развалин – остатки древнего укрепления, |
| + | слившегося как монолит. |
| + | |
| + | Дни заняты водворением в ладакском дворце. Приходят толпы народа, послы из Лхасы, |
| + | тибетские торговцы, старшина-аксакал, тасильдар (кашмирский уездный начальник) и опять – |
| + | король Ладака. |
| + | |
| + | Пришел сам старый король-лама. Несмотря на бедность, с ним пришло до десяти провожатых |
| + | лам и родственников. В беседе выяснилось, что семья короля знает рукописи об Иссе. Они |
| + | же сказали, что многие мусульмане хотели бы завладеть этим документом. Затем беседовали |
| + | о пророчествах, связанных с Шамбалою, о сроках, о многом, что наполняет действительность |
| + | красотою. Уходит король-лама, и толпа в белых кафтанах почтительно склоняется перед ним. |
| + | Просто и красиво. |
| + | |
| + | Так же просто вчера на улице женщина, возвращаясь от жнивья, подошла и протянула руку в |
| + | рукопожатии привета. Теперь они жнут золотой ячмень. Вереницы людей, с венками цветов на |
| + | головах, несут за спиною связки золотых колосьев и поют звонко и радостно, поют золотыми |
| + | полноголосыми гирляндами. |
| + | |
| + | Живем в ладакском дворце. Развалины итальянских замков бледнеют перед этим живописным |
| + | нагромождением, вознесшимся среди чаши разноцветных гор. Где мы встречали такие высокие |
| + | террасы крыш? Где мы ходили по таким разрушенным закоулкам? Это было на картине "Мехески |
| + | – лунный народ". Да, это те самые башни. Только здесь живут не мехески, а потомки |
| + | Гессер-хана. Короли Ладака ведут свое происхождение от героического Гессер-хана. |
| + | |
| + | Как прекрасно, что Юрий знает все нужные тибетские наречия. Только без переводчика люди |
| + | здесь будут говорить о духовных вещах. Сейчас нужно брать – в полном знании, в ясном, |
| + | реальном подходе. Любопытство – неуместно. Только настойчивая любознательность! |
| + | |
| + | Восьмого сентября – письма из Америки. Многие вести нас здесь уже не застанут. Письма |
| + | шли шесть недель – удачно попали на пароход. |
| + | |
| + | В комнате, избранной как столовая, на стенах писаны вазы с разноцветными растениями. В |
| + | спальне – по стенам все символы Чинтамани, камня сокровища мира. И черные от времени |
| + | резные колонны держат потемневший потолок на больших, берендеевских балясинах. Низкие |
| + | дверки на высоких порогах, и узкие окна без стекол. И вихрь предвечерний вольно гуляет |
| + | по переходам. Пол покрыт яркендскими цветными кошмами. На нижней террасе лает черный пес |
| + | Тумбал и белый Амдонг. Наши новые спутники. Ночью свистит ветер и качаются старые стены. |
| + | |
| + | Пишу в верхней палате, имеющей выход на все крыши. Двери с широкими резными наличниками, |
| + | колонны с тяжелыми расписными капителями. Приступочки, ступеньки и патинированный |
| + | временем темный потолок. Где же уже играли те же пестрые краски? Конечно, в "Снегурочке" |
| + | – в чикагской постановке. Входят мои и говорят: "Вот уж подлинный Берендей в своей |
| + | собственной палате". |
| + | |
| + | Кончилась "Берендеевка" раньше, чем думали. Осень не ждет. Надо пройти Каракорум до |
| + | осеннего северо-восточного ветра. Путь на Шайок хорош, но длиннее на неделю; кроме того, |
| + | жители разобрали мосты на топливо, а вода поднялась на человеческий рост. Остается путь |
| + | через Кардонг и Сассер перевалами. Много разных повелительных соображений заставляет |
| + | ускорить срок пути. При большом караване делаешься подневольным. |
| + | |
| + | И с конями, и с мулами, и с яками, и с баранами, и со псами по старому пути, но со |
| + | знаками новых возможностей пойдем на горы. А там вниз – к пустыням. Неужели сойти с гор? |
| + | Но стихия песков тоже зовуща, а пустынные ночи и восходы тоже сверкающи. И в этом |
| + | сверкании красоты – весь смысл и надежда. |
| + | |
| + | Каракорум – "Черный трон". За ним Китай – опять старая вотчина Будды. |
| + | |
| + | На красном коне, с красным знаменем неудержимо несется защищенный доспехами красный |
| + | всадник и трубит в священную раковину. От него несутся брызги алого пламени, и впереди |
| + | летят красные птицы. За ним горы Белухи, снега, и Белая Тара шлет благословение. Над ним |
| + | ликует собрание Великих Лам. Под ним – охранители и стада домашних животных как символы |
| + | места. |
| + | |
| + | Эта замечательная старинная тибетская картина была принесена нам в последний день жизни |
| + | в Ладаке. |
| + | |
| + | Кончают грузить яков. Сейчас идем! День сверкающий. |
| + | |
| + | 18 сентября 1925, Ладак. |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 26 |
| + | |
| + | Наконец можно окончательно оставить всю кашмирскую ложь и грязь. Можно забыть |
| + | полуразрушенный Шринагар. Можно забыть, как победители играют в поло и гольф, когда |
| + | население гибнет в заразах и полном отупении. Можно отвернуться от подкупных чиновников |
| + | Кашмира. Можно забыть нападение вооруженных бандитов на наш караван с целью задержать |
| + | его. Пришлось шесть часов пробыть с поднятым револьвером. А в довершение всего полиция |
| + | составила от нашего имени телеграмму, что мы ошиблись и нападения не было. Кто же тогда |
| + | ранил семь наших людей? Можно пожать плечами на <...> невежественность |
| + | <...>. Даже моравская миссия в Лэ не отстала и уведомила нас о согласии сдать нам |
| + | один из их домов, если я дам подписку, что не будем заниматься "пропагандой религиозной, |
| + | полурелигиозной и т.д." При этом никто не мог пояснить, что значит таинственная "полу... |
| + | и т.д.". Кто же даст подписку в том, что не нарушит никому не понятных пределов "полу... |
| + | и т.д.". Обошлись и без помещений миссии – во дворце ладакского короля. Только в горах |
| + | чувствуете себя в безопасности. Только в пустынных переходах не достигает вас |
| + | невежественность. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 27 |
| + | |
| + | Наши верные ладакцы собирались идти с нами в самые далекие края. В Хотане они скоро |
| + | как-то приуныли. Ходили по базарам, жаловались, что их хватают за косы, плакались на |
| + | китайские власти. Уверяли, что китайский даотай будет их бить. Говорили, что даотай сам |
| + | человека убил. Наконец, вся сермяжная ватага ладакцев пришла, улыбалась, топталась, |
| + | теснилась, повторяла, какие мы добрыеюм-кушо |
| + | |
| + | (госпожа), |
| + | |
| + | яб-кушо |
| + | |
| + | (большой господин), и наконец слезно просили отпустить их. Намекали, что, если бы |
| + | немедленно идти дальше, они останутся, но в Хотане жить невозможно. Очень трогательно |
| + | ушли, спеша через снежные перевалы. К началу ноября они уже были задержаны на Санджу, |
| + | где путь стал непроходим. Мы оценили тогда совет идти как можно раньше, ибо именно после |
| + | нашего прохода началась сплошная вьюга и сильнейший мороз. |
| + | |
| + | Намеки ладакцев на невозможность жить в Хотане мы не приняли к сведению, но скоро начали |
| + | приходить к убеждению, что наши простые друзья, храбро шедшие через все скелеты |
| + | Каракорума, загрустили в Хотане не зря. |
| + | |
| + | Начались самые странные симптомы. Нам не только не хотели дать подходящий дом, но |
| + | уверяли, что мы должны поместиться на базаре, где даотаю удобнее следить за нами. |
| + | Когда мы сами устремились к подходящему дому за городом, то нашлась масса препятствий, |
| + | которые мы должны были неустрашимо лично преодолеть. |
| + | Наш доброжелатель Худай Берди-бай и афганский аксакал много помогли в получении дома, но |
| + | амбань разрешил сделать условие лишь на месяц. Дал этим понять, что жильцы мы |
| + | нежелательные, но и уехать не разрешил. Разрешение писать этюды не дано. Приставлен |
| + | отвратительный бек. Наконец приехал новый амбань, и дело пошло еще сложнее. |
| + | |
| + | У даотая заболел ребенок. Просили Е.И. приехать и помочь. Лечение оказалось удачным, и |
| + | все три правителя приехали якобы благодарить, но вели себя возмутительно. Хохотали, |
| + | махали руками, плевались, заявили, что наш паспорт вообще не действителен. Предложили за |
| + | выдачу такого паспорта ругать г. Чен Ло (китайского посланника в Париже). Все приняло |
| + | поистине безобразный характер. Но это были цветки – ягоды показались на следующий день. |
| + | |
| + | Приехал амбань и заявил, что получена телеграмма из Урумчи от губернатора области с |
| + | требованием выслать нашу экспедицию и непременно через Санджу, то есть через закрытый |
| + | зимой снежный перевал. |
| + | |
| + | Конечно, мы уже привыкли к двоедушию властей Хотана и не сомневались, что никакой |
| + | телеграммы нет и вся история подложна. Впрочем, прибавил грозный амбань, если лично |
| + | попросить г. даотая, то, может быть, он смилостивится. Надо сказать, что власти не |
| + | пропустили ни одну нашу телеграмму, и мы должны были изыскать возможность окольными |
| + | путями послать телеграммы в Нью-Йорк, Пекин и Париж через консульство в Кашгаре. Кроме |
| + | того амбань указал, что власти имеют право вообще отобрать все мои художественные |
| + | принадлежности. |
| + | |
| + | На следующий день даотай сменил гнев на милость и по причине излечения его сына Е.И. |
| + | сообщил, что высылать в Санджу нас не будет. Но милость за излечение сына скоро |
| + | испарилась, и власти начали угрожать нам обыском. Наконец 29 декабря и был произведен |
| + | обыск. Наше оружие – три ружья и три револьвера – было опечатано и увезено. Сказали, что |
| + | в Кашгаре мы можем его получить. Свидетельства на право ношения оружия от британских |
| + | властей не были приняты во внимание. Когда внесли огромный ящик для укладки оружия, то |
| + | даже китайцы попятились, шепча: "Гроб". Е.И. прибавила: "Это гроб для подобных властей". |
| + | Казалось бы, вся изобретательность притеснения была уже изощрена, но невежество |
| + | подсказало еще одну "игру". Сообщили нам, что наши американские бумаги властей не |
| + | интересуют, и потребовали русский довоенный паспорт. При этом мудрые власти |
| + | республиканского Китая потребовали не что иное, как старый императорский паспорт. |
| + | Совершенно случайно при нас оказался старый паспорт и патент на шведского командора |
| + | "Зубры" скопировали и то и другое и будто бы куда-то послали. Требование царского |
| + | паспорта через девять лет после русской революции показало нам, что власти Хотана не |
| + | только недобропорядочны, но и безмерно невежественны, и оставаться здесь было бы уже |
| + | опасно. Мечтаем немедленно ехать на Кашгар и Урумчи, чтобы найти более разумную власть. |
| + | Друзья мои, если хотите испытать свое хладнокровие и терпение, поезжайте в город Хотан. |
| + | Здесь даотай Ма и амбань Чжан Фу научат вас со всею изобретательностью средневековья. |
| + | Перед отъездом слышали базарную молву, что даотаю готовится сильная неприятность. |
| + | Толкуют, что он получил от правителя области должность даотая и звезду за |
| + | собственноручное убийство военного губернатора Кашгара в прошлом году; между тем |
| + | выясняется, что убийство произведено не только им самим, но и солдатами. Теперь можно |
| + | думать, что все убийцы должны сделаться даотаями. |
| + | |
| + | Подробности убийства средневековы. Побежденного распяли, и после двух дней распятия |
| + | нынешний повелитель Хотана в упор выстрелил в него, так что кровь брызнула на |
| + | победителя; с ним вместе стреляли и солдаты его. (Голову побежденного выставили на |
| + | базаре.) |
| + | |
| + | Пишу с болью за китайцев. Воображаю как лучшие китайцы покраснеют за таких |
| + | современников. Вспомним рассказы Свена Гедина, как китайские власти искали в его |
| + | сундуках русских солдат. Как Фильхнер давал подписку амбаню, что не имеет претензий за |
| + | грабеж. Как бедствовал в Хотане Пржевальский. Как Козлов принужден был въехать во двор |
| + | амбаня с 20 казаками, и тогда беззаконие умолкло. Грустно сознавать и видеть, что новый |
| + | строй государства не изменил мрачное средневековье. Пусть амбань справляется со своим |
| + | носом без помощи платка – не в том дело, но пусть амбань хоть что-нибудь знает. При |
| + | досмотре вещей амбань много раз припомнил, что русские на маньчжурской границе у него |
| + | разбили чайник; вся мелочная злопамятность сказалась в этом сообщении. И еще русские |
| + | совершили тяжкое преступление: подумайте только, они привили оспу жене даотая из Аксу! |
| + | Это "кощунство" рассказывается с негодованием. |
| + | |
| + | При досмотре возмущенная Е.И. сказала амбаню, указавшему открыть яхтан с ее |
| + | принадлежностями: "Смотри, амбань, вот мой корсет". Таким образом жена даотая из Аксу |
| + | была отмщена. Наш китаец возмущен и потрясен. У него на глазах – у него, у китайского |
| + | офицера и дипломата, отмеченного в книгах, – у него на глазах отобрали и увезли оружие. |
| + | Лишили экспедицию средств защиты. Он говорит: "Это работа разбойников". Приходят местные |
| + | мусульмане и советуют, и предупреждают, и стараются высказать сочувствие. Можно |
| + | представить, сколько приходится терпеть этим тихим людям, забитым и обезличенным. Можно |
| + | представить, сколько приходится терпеть китайским студентам и молодежи, которая так |
| + | чутка на гримасы произвола. Надо суметь уехать. Несмотря на морозы, надо ехать. Верблюды |
| + | готовы. Старик китаец шепчет: "Велите конвойным солдатам, если у них винтовки, ехать |
| + | впереди, а не сзади – китайцы в спину стреляют". Готово знамя экспедиции. Его повезут |
| + | впереди. Сун сшил его, красное с желтым и надпись черная: "Ло, американский |
| + | художественный офицер". |
| + | |
| + | Амбань про искусство вообще ничего не знает. Бек – монгольского происхождения – вежливо |
| + | поучает его следующей старинной легендой: "В старое время в Куче жил знаменитый |
| + | художник. Однажды он принес в залог свою картину, изображавшую кочан капусты и бабочку, |
| + | и просил за нее 3000 сар (то есть американских долларов – 2700). Мальчик, заменивший |
| + | хозяина, выдал ему просимую ссуду. Пришел хозяин. Возмутился, что за капусту и бабочку |
| + | можно дать такие деньги. Выгнал мальчика и считал деньги потерянными. Наступила зима, и |
| + | в указанный срок художник принес деньги и спросил картину обратно. Достали картину, |
| + | хозяин, к ужасу, видит, что бабочка исчезла с картины. Художник требует картину по |
| + | описанию в ее полном виде. Бедствует хозяин. Говорит художник: "Вот ты несправедливо |
| + | выгнал мальчика, но сейчас только он может помочь тебе". Позвал хозяин мальчика. Тот |
| + | держал три дня картину около огня, и бабочка опять выступила. И сказал мальчик: "Ты не |
| + | ценил художника, но он настолько совершенен, что краски его имеют все качества природы. |
| + | Бабочки являются в теплое летнее время. На зиму они исчезают. То же происходит и на |
| + | картине. Лишь тепло огня вызвало бабочку к жизни и зимою. Так совершенен этот художник". |
| + | И хозяин устыдился и возвысил мальчика и сделал его богатым за его мудрость". Так |
| + | поучает бек амбаня. Но еще Будда в Сутрах сказал: "Самое большое преступление – это |
| + | невежественность". |
| + | |
| + | Среди мусульман дошли вести о разрушении французами Дамаска и о грабежах французских |
| + | офицеров. Мусульмане возмущены: "Видимо, Франция решила порвать с мусульманским миром. |
| + | Именно повреждением святынь и грабежом легче всего закрепить этот разрыв навсегда". В |
| + | Париже и не представляют себе, как быстро по глубинам Азии летят птицы – вестники. Между |
| + | тем течение мусульманской мысли заслуживает большого внимания. На днях один мусульманин |
| + | спрашивал нас, от чего Мунтазар, Мессия, Майтрейя – все на ту же букву "М"? Не есть ли |
| + | это одно и тоже явление? Также спрашивали о буддизме. Слушали внимательно о том, что |
| + | Будда такой же человек, но велик своим высоким знанием; о том, что Будда почитал |
| + | женщину; о том, что Будда сам указал явления Майтрейи – общины. На днях приезжали |
| + | калмыки из Карашара. Пришли поклониться буддийским предметам, которые у нас. Калмыки |
| + | знают, что здесь проходил Будда, направляясь на север. Интересно отметить, что сэр |
| + | Чарльз Белл в своей последней книге о Тибете указывает, что Будда мог быть монголоидного |
| + | происхождения. Непал населен монголоидами, и род Шакья мог быть из них. Тогда особенно |
| + | интересно обращение Будды к северу. Все знаки, все остатки надо пересматривать заново. |
| + | Гигантское изображение Майтрейи на скале около Маульбека много раз упомянуто и описано. |
| + | Не приходит в голову, что всю огромную скалу надо исследовать со всех сторон. Но уже в |
| + | Хотане совершенно случайно пришлось услышать о китайской надписи на оборотной стороне |
| + | скалы. Было бесконечно жаль упустить эту возможность, ведь с нами был и китаец. И |
| + | притом, что может значить этот неожиданный язык? Можно ожидать санскрит, пали, |
| + | тибетский, наконец монгольский! Но почему китайская рука писала на скале Майтрейи? |
| + | Подходите к памятникам всегда заново. |
| + | |
| + | Древности в Хотане действительно иссякли. За два месяца, кроме двух-трех осколков, да |
| + | кроме десятка фальшивых вещей, ничего не принесли. Само занятие кладоискательства |
| + | выродилось. И рассказы отдают старыми сообщениями, уже описанными Аурелом Стейном. |
| + | Яткан, то есть место старого Хотана, действительно заселено мирными сартами и покрыто |
| + | мусульманскими кладбищами. Так же как итальянские антиквары цитируют анекдоты про Бодэ, |
| + | так же и здесь уже механически твердят про сэра Маршалла или про Аурела Стейна. В |
| + | обиходе домашнем не сохранилось старинных предметов. Жизнь застыла, как бывает перед |
| + | волной новых построений. |
| + | |
| + | Почему-то Хотан все-таки считается торговым центром Китайского Туркестана? Не видим |
| + | нерва этой торговли. Живем на большом пути, разветвляющемся на Аксу, Куча и Дуньхуан – в |
| + | провинцию Ганьсу, в глубь Китая. Но редко звенят колокольчики верблюдов. Редко окликают |
| + | ослов. Таким шагом торговые дела, торговые успехи не создаются. Ковровое дело очень |
| + | упало – условно и безжизненно. Собственно хотанские узоры совершенно выродились. |
| + | Торговля нефритом пропала. И еще одна особенность, указанная древними авторами, исчезла. |
| + | Исчезло пение, заменившись неистовыми выкриками. В сравнении с таким пением – пение |
| + | ладакцев полно и ритма и свежести. Если люди перестают петь – значит, они очень |
| + | подавлены. |
| + | |
| + | Дико подумать, что это тот самый Хотан, которому Фа Сянь в IV веке нашей эры посвящал |
| + | восторженный отзыв: "Эта страна счастливо благоденствует. Народ богат. Они все буддисты |
| + | и находят радость в музыке. Здесь более десяти тысяч общинников, и почти все принадлежат |
| + | к махаяне. Все они живут и питаются от общины. Селения раскинуты на большом |
| + | пространстве, и перед дверью каждого дома воздвигнута небольшая пагода (субурган). Все |
| + | очень гостеприимны и снабжают гостей всем необходимым. Правитель страны поместил нас в |
| + | Гомати, принадлежащем к махаяне. При ударах в гонг все общинники собираются к трапезе. |
| + | Все садятся в согласном порядке и хранят молчание, не стучат посудою... Часть из нас |
| + | отправилась на Кашгар...". |
| + | |
| + | До чего может меняться действительность! Очевидность не может сравнить современный Хотан |
| + | с его бывшим. Так же как современная Аппиева дорога или дорога на Остию не ведут к |
| + | настоящему римскому Риму. |
| + | |
| + | Жаль, что не ездил Фа Сянь дальше Кашгара по теперешнему Русскому Туркестану. Ведь там |
| + | везде, и даже в Персии, имеются следы буддизма, еще совсем не открытые. А Бухара есть не |
| + | что иное, как |
| + | |
| + | вихара, испорченное название буддийского монастыря. Юрий удачно в Париже раскрыл эту |
| + | филологическую трансформацию, и Пеллио вполне согласился с ним. Памир, Афганистан, |
| + | Персия – всюду следы тех расцветов культуры, когда, как говорят хроники: "Искусство было |
| + | несравненно и произведение творчества и книга были лучшим подарком". |
| + | |
| + | Сун видел сон. Мы трое – я, Е.И. и Юрий – зарубили саблями Яня-дуту. Сун прибежал, |
| + | рассказывает и смеется: "Очень хороший сон, теперь вся победа будет ваша, а дуту будет |
| + | плохо". Цай Хань-чен переводит этот сон и тоже широко ухмыляется от удовольствия, что |
| + | хоть во сне их дуту пришлось плохо. Сун углубляет значение сна: "Если дуту худо обошелся |
| + | с великими гостями, будет ему плохо и не жить ему". Так в далеком Хотане пишется |
| + | приговор урумчинскому дуту: "Более года не проживет". Говорим сарту об этом решении. Тот |
| + | смеется: "Вы уже сместили Керим-бека, видно и с дуту ваша правда будет". Хоть дуту и |
| + | смеется над пекинским правительством, но сам он сидит в горниле ненависти. Кто же сядет |
| + | вместо него? Хотанский грабитель Ма? Или Аксу? Или один из Кульджи со своими |
| + | маньчжурами? Любая предприимчивая дружина может легко забрать Синьцзян. |
| + | |
| + | Ходят странники, приносят новые вести. В Урге будет отведено место под храм Шамбалы. |
| + | "Когда изображение Ригден-Джапо достигнет Урги, тогда вспыхнет первый свет нового века – |
| + | истины. Тогда начнется истинная свобода Монголии". Задумана картина "Приказ |
| + | Ригден-Джапо". |
| + | |
| + | В Куче на базарах недавно два пришлых ламы раздавали изображения и молитву Шамбалы. |
| + | Здесь же приютились ячейки возрождающегося буддизма. |
| + | |
| + | Знаменитый субурган около Хотана должен быть местом одного из проявлений нового века. |
| + | Хотан – путь Будды. Бурхан-Булат – подле Хотана. Заложены магниты путей. "Так же верно, |
| + | как под камнем Гума лежит пророчество о новом веке". |
| + | |
| + | Серия "Майтрейя" сложилась из семи частей: 1) "Шамбала идет"; 2) "Конь счастья"; 3) |
| + | "Твердыни стен"; 4) "Знамя грядущего"; 5) "Мощь пещер"; 6) "Шепоты пустыни"; 7) |
| + | "Майтрейя Победитель". |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 28 |
| + | |
| + | Тимур-бай – наш новый караванщик. Куда ни оглянешься – всюду какие-то исторические |
| + | имена. Все шахи, султаны, баи. Даже самый незаметный и тот прибавляет себе титул – ахун. |
| + | Он приходит взвешивать наши вещи. Устройство весов переносит нас во времена неолита. На |
| + | перекладине весит палка с какими-то "магическими" кружками и метками. Массивный зеленый |
| + | кусок нефрита на веревочке передвигается в противовес сундука, и "маг" в круглой шапочке |
| + | изрекает цифру, ему одному очевидную. Положительно, в неолите мы находили такие камни с |
| + | дырками и называли их грузилами, но вернее это гири. |
| + | |
| + | Нам нужно на восток, и потому завтра мы идем на запад. Остановки до Кашгара: 1) Зава, 2) |
| + | Пиалма, 3) Зангу (Чуда), 4) Гума-Базар, 5) Чолак, 6) Акин, 7) Каргалык, 8) Позгам, 9) |
| + | Яркенд, 10) Кокрабат, 11) Кизил, 12) Янгигисар, 13) Яберчат, 14) Кашгар. Наши друзья |
| + | калмыки уже вчера прошли мимо нас по краткому пути на Аксу – Карашар. В темноте рассвета |
| + | мимо наших ворот звенели басистые колокольчики их верблюдов. Они повезли таин-ламе ковры |
| + | из Хотана. Повезли и много весточек, которые может оценить буддийское сознание. |
| + | |
| + | Опять в нашем караване будут три течения: буддийское, мусульманское и китайское. |
| + | Китайское – слабее. Последнее изобретение Цай Хань-чена – знамя экспедиции с крупной |
| + | надписью "Ло" (Рерих), то есть "набат", – водружено на ярко-красное древко. Цай Хань-чен |
| + | отвез наши карточки властям, и, как следовало ожидать, мошенники даотай и амбань |
| + | уверяли, что они нам очень помогли... |
| + | |
| + | Пришли мафы для ламы и Цай Хань-чена. Ясно, что эти экипажи не изменили вида с XV века и |
| + | годились бы в любой музей. Худай Берди-бай привез дастархан в виде жареного барана и |
| + | пирожков. Так он и остался нашим единственным другом в Хотане. Впрочем, еще полковник |
| + | китайский понял, что вышло нечто плохое. Опять вьюки, опять мохнатые шапки, опять |
| + | яростный рев Тумбала. Утром – в путь. Последний раз прилетели к нам хотанские птички и |
| + | пришли бараны. Тумбал, как черная статуя, застыл на груде яхтанов. |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 29 |
| + | |
| + | Карашар в переводе значит "черный город". Урумчи китайцы называют Храм Красный |
| + | (Хун-мяо-цзы). |
| + | |
| + | На этом пространстве – земли торгутов и хошутов. Странна судьба калмыков. Народность |
| + | разбита самым непонятным образом. В Китайском Синьцзяне олёты занимают Иллийский край, |
| + | торгуты – Карашар, хошуты – Джунгарию, ойраты – в Монголии, дамсоки – в Тибете. Также |
| + | калмыцкие улусы рассыпаны по Кавказу, Алтаю, Семиречью, Астрахани, по Дону, около |
| + | Оренбурга. У священной горы Сабур лежат остатки города калмыцкого царя Аюши. В |
| + | разбросанных юртах начинают шевелиться признаки самосознания. Дедовские пророчества |
| + | твердят о приходящих сроках. |
| + | |
| + | Словесное состязание между сартским беем и калмыком. Сарт заявляет заносчиво: "У вас нет |
| + | бога". Калмык тихо говорит: "Если к нам приходит сарт, мы накормим и напоим его, и коня |
| + | его накормим, и в путь запас дадим. А если калмык придет к сарту, ему не дадут пищу, и |
| + | коня его оставят голодным. Посуди сам, у кого есть настоящее?". Сарты поносят буддийское |
| + | учение и издеваются над буддийскими изображениями. Но калмыки говорят: "Мы почитаем ваши |
| + | надписи, а изображений у вас нет, потому что когда были даны первоизображения, то вы |
| + | были слишком далеко и не могли познать их". |
| + | |
| + | С буддистом трудно спорить. Знающий учение может столько рассказать об эволюции жизни; |
| + | скажут о посланцах от Шамбалы, ходящих по земле под разными обликами для помощи людям; |
| + | без предрассудков будут говорить о новейших социальных движениях, припоминая заветы |
| + | самого Готамы. Если же снять с этих повествований стилизации языка и образов, то мы |
| + | встречаемся с учением истинного материалистического знания, далеко опередившего свою |
| + | эпоху. |
| + | |
| + | С. хвалит калмыков за твердость слова. "Никаких письменных условий не надо, не то что |
| + | сарты, особенно беки и баи". |
| + | |
| + | Встретили несколько красивых карашарских коней. Это именно та порода, которая |
| + | встречается на старинных миниатюрах и на статуэтках старого Китая. Некоторые ученые |
| + | считают эту породу исчезнувшей, но вот она перед нами, живая, караковая и твердая на |
| + | поступь. Хорошо бы другим странам исследовать эту породу. |
| + | |
| + | Завтра едем в ставку калмыцкого хана. |
| + | |
| + | Еще не настал вечер, как поступила новая синьцзянская гадость. Приезжает взволнованный |
| + | С. и передает, что амбань не разрешает идти короткой горной дорогой, а указывает |
| + | продолжать путь через пески и жар Токсуна, по длинному и скучному тракту. Новое |
| + | глумление, новое насилие, новое издевательство над художником и человеком. Неужели мы не |
| + | можем видеть монастырей? Неужели художник должен ездить одними сыпучими песками? Спешим |
| + | к даотаю. Старик будто бы болен и не может принять. Секретарь его кричит с балкона, что |
| + | ехать можно, что амбань устроит все нужное. Едем к амбаню. Его нет дома. Секретарь его |
| + | говорит, что амбань "боится за нас из-за большого снега на горной дороге". Мы объясняем, |
| + | что теперь снега уже нет, что нам не надо идти через высокий Таже-даван, что мы пойдем |
| + | через более низкий Сумундаван. |
| + | |
| + | В семь часов обещали принести ответ. Конечно, снег амбаня вовсе не белого цвета. Каждый |
| + | день способны испортить китайцы, каждый день подобные китайцы способны превратить в |
| + | тюрьму и пытку. Ждем вечер и готовимся все-таки к отъезду. Пришли торгуты, вернувшиеся |
| + | из Кобдо. |
| + | |
| + | Пришел хошутский лама. Просит вылечить глаза. Принес ценные рассказы. Не сказки, но |
| + | факты. Нужны факты. Лама из Улясутая написал книгу о наступлении времени Шамбалы. |
| + | |
| + | Вечером пришел ответ. Принесли его племянник даотая и почтмейстер. Конечно, ответ |
| + | отрицательный. Несмотря не жару, на духоту и пыль, мы должны длинным путем идти через |
| + | горячий Токсун. Е. И. заявляет, что она умрет от жары, но китайцы улыбаются и сообщают, |
| + | что у их губернатора сердце маленькое. |
| + | |
| + | Составляем телеграмму генерал-губернатору: |
| + | |
| + | "Будьте добры указать магистрату Карашара разрешить экспедиции Рериха следовать в Урумчи |
| + | горной дорогой. Здоровье Е. И. Рерих не позволяет продолжать путь по знойной песчаной |
| + | пустыне длинного пути. Горная дорога гораздо скорее позволит дойти до Урумчи". |
| + | |
| + | До получения ответа мы пойдем в ставку торгутского хана и в монастырь Шарсюмэ. |
| + | |
| + | Отвратительно это чувство поднадзорности и насилия. Какая же тут работа, когда за спиной |
| + | стоит приказ амбаня и когда у генерал-губернатора "маленькое сердце". Испорчено все |
| + | настроение, и опять сидим в каком-то китайском средневековом застенке. |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 30 |
| + | |
| + | Во все небо стояла радуга. И не одна, но две. И в радужные ворота стремилась широкая |
| + | Обь. Великая Обь – родина жены и змия. |
| + | |
| + | Шамбатион-река стремительно катит по порогам и камням. Кто не пострашится, перейдет ее. |
| + | А на той стороне живут люди М. М – самая священная буква алфавита, она скрывает имя |
| + | грядущего. Каббала помнит Шамбатион. Катит камни – Катунь настоящая. И не построен еще |
| + | город на месте новом. |
| + | |
| + | Катун – по-тюркски "женщина". |
| + | |
| + | "Додекаэдрон женского начала обозначается в географических понятиях, связанных со |
| + | сроками эволюции". |
| + | |
| + | "На Катуни и на Бии встанет брат на брата. Будет избиение великое, а потом начнется |
| + | новая жизнь". |
| + | |
| + | И еще приходили другие и толковали все о том же двадцать восьмом годе. Солнечные пятна |
| + | сгущаются так через семьдесят семь лет. И пришел самый вдохновенный человек и о том же |
| + | толкует. Вот диво-то: один по астрономии, другой по астрологии, третий по писаниям, |
| + | четвертый по числам, и разговоры все о том же самом. Вот диво-то. К 1911 прибавить 25 – |
| + | получается тот же 1936 год. |
| + | |
| + | Камень – дивный камень. Тигерецкий камень. И просто – камень. И весь край – сплошной |
| + | камень. |
| + | |
| + | Елен-Чады́р, Тоурáк, Куегáн, Карагáй, Ак-Кéм, Ясатáр, Эконýр, Чегáн, Арасáн, Уруль, |
| + | Курагáн, Алахóй, Жархáш, Онгудáй, Еломаáн, Тургундá, Аргýт, Карагéм, Арчáт, Жалдýр, |
| + | Чингистáй, Ак-Ульгýн, Хамсáр. |
| + | |
| + | Это все имена. Эти названия речек, урочищ и городищ – слышатся как напевный лад, как |
| + | созвучный звон. Столько много народов принесли свои лучшие созвучия и мечты. Шаги племен |
| + | уходят и приходят. |
| + | |
| + | Около Черного Ануя на Караголе – пещеры. Глубина и протяжение их неизвестны. Есть там |
| + | кости и надписи. |
| + | |
| + | А когда перешли Эдигол, расстилалась перед нами ширь Алтая. Зацвела всеми красками |
| + | зеленых и синих переливов. Забелела дальними снегами. Стояла трава и цветы в рост |
| + | всадника. И даже коней здесь не найдешь. Такого травного убора нигде не видали. |
| + | |
| + | Поравнялся с нами алтаец. Пугливо взглянул на нас. Что за новые чужаки в его страну |
| + | пожаловали? Махнул плетью и потонул в звонких травах. Синих, золотых, пурпуровых. |
| + | Поражающе сходство североамериканских индейцев с монголами. |
| + | |
| + | Про доброго Ойрота все знают. А любимое имя алтайское – Николай. За Ялуем начались |
| + | алтайские аилы. Темнеют конические юрты, крытые корой лиственницы. Видно место камланий. |
| + | Здесь не говорят "шаман" – но "кам". К Аную и к Улале есть еще камы, "заклинатели снега |
| + | и змей". Но к югу шаманизм заменился учением про Белого Бурхана и его друга Ойрота. |
| + | Жертвоприношения отменены и заменились сожжением душистого вереска и стройными напевами. |
| + | Ждут скорое наступление новой эры. Женщина – молодая алтайка – почуяла новые шаги мира и |
| + | хранит первый строгий устав. |
| + | |
| + | Размытая ливнями дорога утомила коней. Остановились в Кырлыке. Придется здесь просидеть |
| + | ночь. Но не жаль провести ночь в месте, где родилось учение о Белом Бурхане и его благом |
| + | друге Ойроте. Имя Ойрота приняла целая область. Именно здесь ждут приход Белого Бурхана. |
| + | В скалах, стоящих над Кырлыком, чернеют входы в пещеры. Идут пещеры глубоко, конца им не |
| + | нашли. Здесь также пещеры и тайные ходы – от Тибета через Куэнь-Лунь, через Алтын-Таг, |
| + | через Турфан; "длинное ухо" знает о тайных ходах. Сколько людей спасались в этих ходах и |
| + | пещерах! И явь стала сказкой. Так же как черный аконит Гималаев превратился в Жар-цвет. |
| + | |
| + | "А как выросла белая береза в нашем краю, так и пришел белый царь и завоевал край наш. И |
| + | не захотела чудь остаться под белым царем. Ушла под землю. И захоронилась каменьями". На |
| + | Уймоне показывают чудские могилы, камнями выложенные. "Тут-то и ушла чудь подземная". |
| + | Запечатлелось переселение народов. |
| + | |
| + | Беловодье! Дед Атаманова и отец Огнева ходили искать Беловодье. "Через Кокуши горы, |
| + | через Богогорше, через Ергор – по особой тропе. А кто пути не знает, то пропадет в |
| + | озерах или в голодной степи. Бывает, что и беловодские люди выходят верхом на конях по |
| + | особым ходам по Ергору. Также было, что женщина беловодская вышла давно уже. Ростом |
| + | высокая, станом тонкая, лицом темнее, чем наши. Одета в долгую рубаху, как бы в сарафан. |
| + | Сроки на все особые". |
| + | |
| + | С юга и с севера, с востока и с запада мыслят о том же. И тот же эволюционный процесс |
| + | запечатлевается в лучших образах. Центр между четырех океанов существует. Сознание |
| + | нового мира – существует. Время схода событий – улажено, соблазн собственности – |
| + | преоборён, неравенство людей – превзойдено, ценность труда – возвещена. Не вернется ли |
| + | чудь подземная? Не седлают ли коней агарты, подземный народ? Не звонят ли колокола |
| + | Беловодья? По Ергору не едет ли всадник? На хребтах – на Дальнем и на Студеном – пылают |
| + | вершины. |
| + | |
| + | "В 1923 году Соколиха с бухтарминскими поехала искать Беловодье. Никто из них не |
| + | вернулся, но недавно получилось от Соколихи письмо. Пишет, что в Беловодье не попала, но |
| + | живет хорошо. А где живет, того и не пишет. Все знают о Беловодье". |
| + | |
| + | "С каких же пор пошла весть о Беловодье?" – "А пошла весть от калмыков да от монголов. |
| + | Первоначально они сообщили нашим дедам, которые по старой вере, по благочестию". |
| + | |
| + | Значит, в основе сведений о Беловодье лежит сообщение из буддийского мира. Тот же центр |
| + | учения жизни перетолкован староверами. Путь между Аргунью и Иртышом ведет к тому же |
| + | Тибету. |
| + | |
| + | Задумана картина "Сосуд нерасплесканный". Самые синие, самые звонкие горы. Вся чистота. |
| + | И несет он сосуд свой. |
| + | |
| + | Пишут об магнитных бурях, о необычных температурах и о всяких ненормальностях в природе |
| + | в связи со сгущением солнечных пятен. В будущем году эффект пятен будет еще |
| + | значительнее. Возможны необычайные северные сияния. Возможно потрясение нервной системы. |
| + | Сколько легенд связано с солнечными пятнами, с грозными морщинам светила. |
| + | |
| + | Рамзана ушел в Ладак. Не вынес северных низин. "Или уйду, или умру". Конечно, вся жизнь |
| + | ладакцев проходит на высотах не ниже двенадцати тысяч футов (≈ 3,5 км). Жаль Рамзану. |
| + | Спокойно оставляли на ладакцев охрану всех вещей. А ойротские ямщики на ладакцев не |
| + | похожи. |
| + | |
| + | Кооператор бодро толкует: "Мы-то выдержим. Только бы машины не лопнули. Пора бы их |
| + | переменить". |
| + | |
| + | И считает Вахрамей число подвод с сельскими машинами. Староверское сердце вместило |
| + | машину. Здраво судит о германской и американской индустрии. Рано или позднее, но будут |
| + | работать с Америкой. Народ помнит американскую АРА. Народ ценит открытый характер |
| + | американцев и подмечает общие черты. "Приезжайте с нами работать", – зовут американцев. |
| + | Этот дружеский зов прошел по всей Азии. |
| + | |
| + | После индустрийных толков Вахрамей начинает мурлыкать напевно какой-то сказ. Разбираю: |
| + | "А прими ты меня, пустыня тишайшая. А и как же принять тебя? Нет у меня, пустыни, палат |
| + | и дворцов..." |
| + | |
| + | Знакомо. Сказ про Иосафа. "Знаешь ли, Вахрамей, о ком поешь? Ведь поешь про Будду. Ведь |
| + | Бодхисатва – Бодхисатв переделано в Иосаф". |
| + | |
| + | Так влился Будда в кержацкое сознание, а пашня довела до машины, а кооперация до |
| + | Беловодья. |
| + | |
| + | Но Вахрамей не по одной кооперации, не по стихирам только. Он, по завету мудрых, ничему |
| + | не удивляется; он знает и руды, знает и маралов, знает и пчелок, а главное и заветное – |
| + | знает он травки и цветики. Это уже неоспоримо. И не только он знает, как и где растут |
| + | цветики и где затаились коренья, но он любит их и любуется ими. И до самой седой бороды, |
| + | набрав целый ворох многоцветных трав, он просветляется ликом и гладит их, и ласково |
| + | приговаривает о их полезности. Это уже Пантелей Целитель, не темное ведовство, но |
| + | опытное знание. Здравствуй, Вахрамей Семеныч! Для тебя на Гималаях Жар-цвет вырос. |
| + | |
| + | А вот и Вахрамеева сестра, тетка Елена. И лекарь, и травчатый живописец, и письменная |
| + | искусница. Тоже знает травы и цветики. Распишет охрой, баканом и суриком любые |
| + | наличники. На дверях и на скрынях наведет всякие травные узоры. Посадит птичек цветистых |
| + | и желтого грозного леву-хранителя. И не обойдется без нее ни одно важное письмо на |
| + | деревне. "А кому пишешь-то, сыну? Дай-ко сажу, как писать". И течет длинное жалостливое |
| + | и сердечное стихотворное послание. Такая искусница! |
| + | |
| + | "А с бухтарминскими мы теперь не знаемся. Они, вишь, прикинулись коммунарами и наехали |
| + | грабить, а главное – старинные сарафаны. Так теперь их и зовут "сарафанники". Теперь, |
| + | конечно, одумались. Встретится – морду воротит: все-таки человек, и стыдно. Теперь бы |
| + | нам машин побольше завести. Пора коней освободить". |
| + | |
| + | И опять устремление к бодрой кооперации. И тучнеют новые стада по высоким хребтам. А со |
| + | Студеного хребта лучше всего видно самую Белуху, о которой шепчут даже пустыни. |
| + | |
| + | Все носит следы гражданской войны. Здесь на Чуйском тракте засадою был уничтожен красный |
| + | полк. Там топили в Катуни белых. На вершине лежат красные комиссары. А под Котандой |
| + | зарублен кержацкий начетчик. Много могил по путям, и около них растет новая, густая |
| + | трава. |
| + | |
| + | Как птицы по веткам, так из языка в язык перепархивают слова. Забытые и никем не |
| + | узнанные. Забайкальцы называют паука – мизгирем. Торговый гость, мизгирь, по сибирскому |
| + | толкованию – просто паук. Какое тюркское наречие здесь помогло? Ветер по-забайкальски |
| + | –хиус. Это уже совсем непонятно. Корень не монгольский и не якутский. |
| + | |
| + | В тайге к Кузнецку едят хорьков и тарбаганов (сурков). Это уже опасно, ведь тарбаганы |
| + | болеют легочной чумой. Говорят, что чумная зараза исчезает из шкурки под влиянием |
| + | солнечных лучей. Но кто может проверить, когда и сколько воздействовали лучи? Откуда шла |
| + | знаменитая "испанка", так похожая на форму легочной чумы? Не от мехов ли? Часты в |
| + | Монголии очаги заболеваний, а чума скота вообще довольно обычна. Ко всему привыкаешь. В |
| + | Лахоре, в Шринагаре и в Барамуле была при нас сильная холера; в Хотане была оспа; в |
| + | Кашгаре скарлатина. Обычность делает обычным даже суровые явления. |
| + | |
| + | Ойротские лошадки выносливы. Хороши также кульджинские олетские кони. Карашарские бегуны |
| + | и бадахшанцы не выносливы и в горах менее пригодны. |
| + | |
| + | Монголы и буряты хотят видеть разные страны, хотят быть и в Германии и во Франции. Любят |
| + | Америку и Германию. Необходимость расширить кругозор характеризуется ими старинной |
| + | притчей о лягушке и о черепахе. Лягушка жила в колодце, а черепаха в океане. Но приходит |
| + | черепаха к лягушке и рассказывает о громадности океана. "Что же, по-твоему, океан вдвое |
| + | больше моего колодца?" – "Гораздо больше", – отвечает черепаха. "Скажешь, в три раза |
| + | больше колодца?" – "Гораздо больше". – "И в четыре раза больше?" – "Гораздо". Тогда |
| + | лягушка прогнала черепаху как хвастуна и лжеца. |
| + | |
| + | Поповцы, беспоповцы, стригуны, прыгуны, поморцы, нетовцы (ничего не признающие, но |
| + | считающие себя "по старой вере") доставляют сколько непонятных споров. А к Забайкалью |
| + | среди семейских, то есть староверов, ссылавшихся в Сибирь целыми семьями, еще |
| + | причисляются и темноверцы и калашники. Темноверцы – каждый имеет свою закрытую створками |
| + | икону и молится ей один. Если бы кто-то помолился на ту же икону, то она считается |
| + | негодной. Еще страннее – калашники. Они молятся на икону через круглое отверстие в |
| + | калаче. Много чего слыхали, но такого темноверия не приходилось ни видать, ни читать. И |
| + | это в лето 1926 года! Тут же живут и хлысты, и пашковцы, и штундисты, и молокане. И к |
| + | ним уже стучится поворотливый католический падре. Среди зеленых и синих холмов, среди |
| + | таежных зарослей не видать всех измышлений. По бороде и по низкой повязке не поймете, |
| + | что везет с собою грузно одетый встречный. |
| + | |
| + | В Усть-Кане последняя телеграфная станция. Подаем первую телеграмму в Америку. |
| + | Телеграфист смущен. Предлагает послать почтою в Бийск. Ему не приходилось иметь дело с |
| + | таким страшным зверем, как Америка. Но мы настаиваем, и он обещает послать, но |
| + | предварительно запросит Бийск. |
| + | |
| + | На следующий год запланировано продолжить железнодорожную линию до Котанды, то есть в |
| + | двух переходах от Белухи. До Котанды еще с довоенного времени была запроектирована ветка |
| + | железной дороги от Барнаула, связывая сердце Алтая с Семипалатинском и Новосибирском. |
| + | Говорят: "Тогда еще инженеры прошли линию". – "Да когда тогда?" – "Да известно – до |
| + | войны". Таинственное "тогда" становится определителем довоенной эпохи. Уже Чуйский тракт |
| + | делается моторным до самого Кобдо. Уже можно от Пекина на "додже" доехать до самого |
| + | Урумчи, а значит, и до Кульджи, и до Чугучака, до Семипалатинска. Жизнь кует живительную |
| + | сеть сообщений. |
| + | |
| + | Ползут рассказы из Кобдо. Каждому занятно передать хоть что-нибудь из неведомой |
| + | Монголии, из страны магнитных бурь, ложных солнц и крестовидных лун. Все хотят знать о |
| + | Монголии. Все особенное. Толкуют, что часового солдата съели собаки. Он семь их зарубил, |
| + | но от стаи отбиться не смог. Монгольский командующий в Улясутае съел человеческое |
| + | сердце. Кто говорит – русское, а кто полагает – китайское. На Иро и к Урянхаю – много |
| + | золота. Тоже на Иро, у шаманки родился странный мальчик, который сообщил какое-то |
| + | предсказание. Шептали про перевоплощение богдо-гегена монгольского. А другой такой же, |
| + | какой-то особенный, родился в Китае. Но знатоки не признают ни того, ни другого: ведь |
| + | богдо-геген никогда ни в Монголии, ни в Китае не рождался, а всегда это происходило в |
| + | Тибете. На пути из Улясутая в Кобдо выскочили какие-то дикие люди в мехах и кидали |
| + | камнями в машину. Их называли "охранители". По пути в Маньчжурию из скалы течет в |
| + | пустыню "минеральное масло". И такие магнитные места, что даже машина замедляет ход. |
| + | |
| + | На перекрестках дорог ткутся сложные ковры – слухи азиатских узоров. Да и как же без |
| + | вестей? Этак скоро ни к чему будет в дальний аил поехать и попить чай с крепким наваром |
| + | рассказов. Монголия привлекает внимание. |
| + | |
| + | "За периодом пробуждения Востока наступает период прямого участия народов Востока в |
| + | решении судеб всего мира". |
| + | |
| + | "Курумчинские кузнецы" – странные, непонятные народы, которые не только прошли, но и |
| + | жили в пределах Алтая и Забайкалья. Общепринятые деления на гуннов, аланов, готов – |
| + | разбиваются на множество необъясненных подразделений. Настолько все неизвестно, что |
| + | монеты с определенными датами иногда попадают в совершенно несоответственные времени |
| + | установленных периодов. Оленьи камни, керексуры, каменные бабы, стены безымянных городов |
| + | хотя и описаны и сосчитаны, но пути народов еще не выявлены. Как замечательны ткани из |
| + | последних гуннских могил, которые дополнили знаменитые сибирские древности. |
| + | |
| + | Живет предание о черном камне, появляющемся в сроки больших событий. Если сравните все |
| + | устные сроки из Индии, Тибета, Египта, Монголии, то совпадения их напомнят, как помимо |
| + | историков пишется другая история мира. Особенно значительно сравнение показаний |
| + | совершенно различных народностей. |
| + | |
| + | Калмыки и монголы по следу коней и верблюдов узнают род и количество груза. Скажут: |
| + | "Проехал конный с двумя конями в поводу. Два коня загнаны, а третий свежий". Или: |
| + | "Прошел табун и при нем два вершинника". |
| + | |
| + | Передавали случаи из недавних войн. Вызвался один наездник принудить к сдаче целый полк. |
| + | Взял одного товарища и большой табун конский – "Больше, – говорит, – ничего и не надо". |
| + | Подогнал табун с наветренной стороны, а сам поехал с товарищем для переговоров. Требует: |
| + | "Немедленно сдать оружие, иначе поведу на вас все мое войско". Подумали, поглядели на |
| + | столбы пыли от табуна, да и сдали оружие. А удалец велит товарищу: "Скачи, отведи войско |
| + | обратно". Так и принудил к сдаче весь полк. И это не чингисова сказка, а недавняя быль. |
| + | |
| + | И слухи опережают даже моторы. За двести верст верхом едут чай попить. |
| + | |
| + | Опять передают: "Толкуют, что вы пропали". Неужели во второй раз меня похоронят? Откуда |
| + | это неиссякаемое стремление клеветы и всяких ложных выдумок? Говорят, что много |
| + | распространено поддельных картин под меня. Рассказывают целые забавные истории и даже |
| + | называют несколько имен, таким порядком на мне заработавших. Говорят, В. и Р. – один в |
| + | Ленинграде, а другой в Москве проработали. Несколько подделок мне приходилось видеть еще |
| + | до войны. Помню одну очень большую картину, неглупо составленную из фрагментов разных |
| + | моих вещей. Бедный собиратель, позвавший меня одобрить его покупку, был огорчен |
| + | безмерно. Друзья, вам могут приносить в музей такие подделки, смотрите, будьте |
| + | осторожнее. Так часто приходилось видеть и картины, и целые альбомы, фальшиво |
| + | приписанные. Помню одну картину Рущица, подписанную моим именем. |
| + | |
| + | Рассказывают о гибели многих моих картин. Пропал "Зов змия" из Академии, пропал "Поход", |
| + | "Ункрада", "Построение стен", "Святогор" и другие. Конечно, их считают пропавшими, но |
| + | кто знает? Пути вещей так неожиданны. Собирая работы старинных мастеров, мы |
| + | наталкивались на такую изысканную игру жизни. |
| + | |
| + | Приходит заезжая художница. Приходит геологическая экспедиция. Говор о художниках: |
| + | крепко стоят Юон, Машков, Кончаловский, Лентулов, Сарьян, Кустодиев. Пошатнулся Бенуа. |
| + | Ушел в Литву Добужинский. Не упоминают Сомова, не знают, что Бакст умер. Подрастают |
| + | молодые. Смело действуют Щусев и Щуко. И ходит художница, и зарисовывает старые уголки: |
| + | ворота, наличники окон, резные балки и коньки крыш, точно последний списочек вещей перед |
| + | дальним путем. И исчезнут с крыш резные коньки. И путь уйдут, так же как и узоры |
| + | набойки. Но чем заменятся они? "Венский" стул и линючий ситец – не вводят культуру. Вот |
| + | для молодых-то и задача: дать облик будущей жизни. Из фабричных гудков и из колокольного |
| + | звона создавали симфонию. Если даже это не удалось, то сама затея была созвучна. Вот и |
| + | для обстановки дома нужна находчивая рука и затея без предрассудков. Вот мстерские, |
| + | палехские и холуйские иконники обновили и продолжают свою работу. Как красивы их |
| + | произведения в Кустарном музее! Привет Вольтеру. |
| + | |
| + | На Востоке применяют экстериоризацию чувствительности не только к отдельным личностям, |
| + | но и к группам и как бы к целым местностям. Получается грандиозный опыт применения |
| + | психической энергии. И все это делается молчаливо и анонимно. |
| + | |
| + | Смотрите и удивляйтесь: и книги, и картины, и песни, и танцы, и строения – все это |
| + | анонимно пускается по волнам мира. Книги, по традиции, приписываются определенному |
| + | автору, но ведь он-то сам на рукописи свое имя не ставил. Картины не подписаны; имя |
| + | зодчего Поталы не запечатлено. На фарфоре, на керамике и на металлических изделиях |
| + | видите иногда марку производства, но не имя автора. И в этой основной анонимности Восток |
| + | далеко оставил за собою позади Запад. У Востока нужно учиться, но для этого нужно |
| + | усвоить психологию Востока. Восток не любит фальшивых пришельцев; Восток легко различает |
| + | маскарадную подделку. И Восток никогда не забудет свое решение. Все заплаты поправок |
| + | лишь увеличат шутовство поддельного наряда. |
| + | |
| + | Открытие Теремина: "Мы видели на экране движение человеческой руки, происходившее в те |
| + | же моменты времени за стеною в соседней комнате". Наконец-то "чудесное" делается просто |
| + | "научным". Наконец-то начинают обращаться к реальному изучению всех свойств энергии. |
| + | |
| + | Именно тогда, когда мы не просили, именно тогда, когда не ожидали, он сам сказал и |
| + | показал свое знание особых мест Тибета. Наши простецы сочли бы это за сказку или за |
| + | необычайное откровение, а он улыбнулся, запахнул желтый халат и показал знание, кто и |
| + | где живет. "А с тем местом уже пятнадцать лет не было сношений". |
| + | |
| + | В личных покоях далай-ламы поставлено недавно сделанное изображение Будды с пламенным |
| + | мечом. "Будда – Победитель всепокоряющий". |
| + | |
| + | К таши-ламе в Пекине пришла группа китайцев, прося выдать им паспорта для отправления в |
| + | Шамбалу. Это нам напомнило письмо, написанное из Бостона в Шамбалу. Откуда и как |
| + | встретилась эта китайская группа? Собрали ли их скитания Лао-дзина? Или более старые |
| + | писания? Или книга утайшаньского настоятеля? Когда-то смеялись бы над этим фактом, но |
| + | сейчас произошло многое. Так обогатилась литература, что недавняя "выдумка" и "магия" |
| + | переданы в лабораторию исследования. И скептики негодуют, но благодаря их полной |
| + | необразованности и непросвещенности. Прислушиваемся к шагам нового мира. Видим движение |
| + | великой руки Азии. Даже самые тяжелодумы спрашивают, что это значит? Можно говорить о |
| + | значении происходящего, но самый факт уже не останется незамеченным. |
| + | |
| + | Толкуют об опытах Манойлова, исследовавшего пол растений и минералов, а также мужское и |
| + | женское начало человеческой крови. Опыт с минералом пиритом дает результат, издавна |
| + | указанный наукой Востока. "Пирит дает кристаллы двух видов – в виде куба и в виде |
| + | двенадцатигранника. Если тот же единый реактив налить в пробирку с кубическими |
| + | кристаллами, получится обесцвечивание жидкости – мужская реакция, а если то же сделать в |
| + | двенадцатигранными кристалами, получится фиолетовое окрашивание – женская реакция". Для |
| + | Запада это открытие ново, но Восток в своих древнейших формулах говорит о |
| + | двенадцатизначнике (додекаэдроне) Матери Мира – женского начала. Также указывается о |
| + | фиолетовом физическом женском излучении. Представьте себе, с какой спокойной улыбкой |
| + | слушает ученый Востока о "новых" открытиях Запада. "Гемоглобин в крови животных и |
| + | хлорофилл в соке растений по природе своей сходны". И ученый Востока кивает головой в |
| + | знак давно известного согласия. |
| + | |
| + | Луначарский говорит: "Ведь у нас до сих пор еще, несмотря на сердитый окрик <...>, |
| + | распространено представление о том, что культура вплоть до возникновения элементов |
| + | культуры пролетарской сплошь "буржуазна", что она представляет собою опасный яд для |
| + | всякого правоверного коммуниста и что следует всемерно ограждать таких правоверных не |
| + | только от "совета нечестивых", то есть людей старой культуры, но и от того, что они |
| + | произвели. Порой, слушая таких людей, можно подумать, что мы не ученики Маркса, в |
| + | колоссальной степени владевшего старой культурой и ценившего ее, между прочим, также и в |
| + | области искусства, – вспомним его отношение Гомеру, Шекспиру, Бальзаку, Гете и Гейне, – |
| + | а ученики какого-то своеобразного Савонаролы, чуть-чуть что не его "Плаксы", боящиеся |
| + | всякой радости жизни и готовые собрать на площади им. Свердлова большой костер для |
| + | сожжения "Суеты сует"... Здесь уместно припомнить, как непрестанно и как подчеркнуто |
| + | возвращался Владимир Ильич к идее о необходимости усвоить старую культуру вплоть до |
| + | старого искусства, о чем совершенно определенно гласит составленный им соответственный |
| + | параграф нашей программы". |
| + | |
| + | В великом Владимире поразительно отсутствует отрицание. Он вмещал и целесообразно |
| + | вкладывал каждый материал в мировую постройку. Именно это вмещение открывало ему путь во |
| + | все части света. И народы складывают ленинскую легенду не только по прописи его |
| + | постулатов, но и по качеству его устремления. За нами лежат двадцать четыре страны, и мы |
| + | сами в действительности видели, как народы поняли притягательную мощь <...>. |
| + | Друзья, самый плохой советчик – отрицание. За каждым отрицанием скрыто невежество. И в |
| + | невежестве – вся гидра контрреволюции. |
| + | |
| + | Знайте, знайте без страха и во всем объеме. |
| + | |
| + | Когда же, наконец, люди выйдут из туманных потемок "мистики" для изучения солнечной |
| + | действительности? Когда же извилина пещеры сменится сиянием простора? |
| + | |
| + | Маральи рога и мускус кабарги до сих пор являются ценным товаром. Нужно исследовать |
| + | целебные свойства толченого рога марала. Весенняя кровь, налившая эти мохнатые рога, |
| + | конечно, напитана сильными отложениями. В чем разница мускуса тибетского барана от |
| + | мускуса алтайской кабарги? Кабарга питается хвоей кедра и лиственницы. Алтайцы жуют |
| + | хвойную смолу. Все качества мускуса должны быть исследованы. |
| + | |
| + | Стоим в бывшей староверской молельной. По стенам еще видны четырехугольники бывших икон. |
| + | В светлице рядом написана на стене красная чаша. Откуда? У ворот сидит белый пес. Пришел |
| + | с нами. Откуда? |
| + | |
| + | Белый Бурхан, конечно, он же Благословенный Будда. В области Ак-кема следы |
| + | радиоактивности. Вода в Ак-кеме молочно-белая. Чистое Беловодье. Через Ак-кем проходит |
| + | пятидесятая широта. Вспоминаем заключение Чома де Кёрёша. |
| + | |
| + | На вершинах холмов наблюдается необычно теплая температура в зимнее время. По заметкам |
| + | Сапожникова, ледник на Белухе за пятнадцать лет отступил на сто восемьдесят метров. |
| + | |
| + | Около двух ночи на второе августа на восток от села Алтайского падал сильно светящийся |
| + | огромный метеорит. К югу от Верхнего Уймона в прошлом году на вершине холма выбросило |
| + | как бы взрывом камни и песок. Образовалась воронка. |
| + | |
| + | Начата картина "Сосуд нерасплесканный". Самые синие, самые звонкие горы. Сама чистота, |
| + | как на Фалюте. И несет он с горы сосуд свой. |
| + | |
| + | "Кует кузнец судьбу человеческую на Сиверных горах". Гроб Святогора на Сиверных горах. |
| + | Сиверные горы – Сумыр, Субур, Сумбыр, Сибирь – Сумеру. Все тот же центр от четырех |
| + | океанов. В Алтае, на правом берегу Катуни, есть гора, значение ее приравнивается мировой |
| + | горе Сумеру. |
| + | |
| + | Саин Галабын судур |
| + | |
| + | – "Сказание о добром веке". |
| + | |
| + | Все деревья были заговорены, чтобы не вредить Бальдру. Одна омела была забыта; именно |
| + | стрела из этой омелы поразила Бальдра. Все животные дали благословение на построение |
| + | храма в Лхасе, но один сивый бык был забыт, он-то и восстал после, в виде нечестивого |
| + | царя, против истинного учения. Ничто сущее не должно быть обойдено при строительстве. |
| + | "Даже мышь перегрызет узлы". |
| + | |
| + | Приветлива Катунь. Звонки синие горы. Бела Белуха. Ярки цветы и успокоительны зеленые |
| + | травы и кедры. Кто сказал, что жесток и неприступен Алтай? Чье сердце убоялось суровой |
| + | мощи и красоты? |
| + | |
| + | Семнадцатого августа увидели Белуху. Было так чисто и звонко. Прямо Звенигород. |
| + | |
| + | А за Белухой покажется милый сердцу хребет Куэнь-Луня, а за ним – "Гора божественной |
| + | владычицы", и "Пять сокровищ снегов", и сама "Владычица белых снегов", и все писанное и |
| + | неписанное, все сказанное и несказанное. |
| + | |
| + | "Между Иртышом и Аргунью, через Кокуши, через Богогорше, по самому Ергору едет |
| + | всадник"... |
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| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 31 |
| + | |
| + | Выстрел. Пуля пробила окно. Хорошо, что Юрий как раз в эту минуту отошел от окна. Кто |
| + | стрелял? Намеренно? Или озорство? |
| + | |
| + | Предупреждают: "А вам не уехать". Отвечаю: "Уедем, как всегда, не отложим и на один |
| + | день". Приезжают наши американцы, с ними Борис. Присоединяется доктор. После долгой |
| + | переписки нашелся П. К. Людмила и Рая поедут с нами. Первая тринадцатилетняя |
| + | путешественница в Тибет. |
| + | |
| + | Приходит тибетский доньер (консул), приносит тибетский паспорт и письмо к далай-ламе. |
| + | Доньер выдает подобные паспорта паломникам. Наше знание буддизма дает нам право |
| + | пользоваться тем же вниманием. |
| + | |
| + | Приходят четыре бурятские ламы, просят взять их с собою. Они шьют знамя экспедиции – |
| + | изображение Майтрейи с акдордже наверху. Все служащие прикрепили маленькие значки |
| + | акдордже на шапки и такими ополченцами ходят по Улан-Батор-Хото. Юрий учит их ружейным |
| + | приемам. Прикупили еще восемь карабинов-маузеров. Забавляет всех стоящее в столовой |
| + | механическое ружье – "льюис". Пусть знают, что оружия у нас достаточно. |
| + | |
| + | Случай во время маневров. Монгольский полк брал штурмом укрепления, а с другой стороны |
| + | наш конвой выполнял ту же задачу. Можете себе представить остолбенение обеих сторон, |
| + | когда они неожиданно столкнулись с винтовками наперевес. |
| + | |
| + | "Владыка Шамбалы". Совпадение картины с пророчеством ламы. "И показался Великий Всадник, |
| + | а головы всех людей были повернуты на запад. Но рука Всадника повернула все народы к |
| + | Востоку". |
| + | |
| + | Приходит уполномоченный от монгольского правительства и просит дать рисунок |
| + | храма-хранилища, где будет поставлена картина "Владыка Шамбалы" с другими почитаемыми |
| + | предметами. |
| + | |
| + | Кончается печатание книг "Основы буддизма" и "Общее благо" ("Община"). Трудно дать книге |
| + | соответствующий облик в маленькой типографии. Прежний лама, теперь литограф, с любовью |
| + | переписывает для книги "Будду Побеждающего" с огненным мечом. Опять посланец |
| + | правительства. Просят разрешение перевести на монгольский "Основы буддизма". |
| + | |
| + | Много смятения и ожидания. Но все-таки не отложим отъезда. Е. И. напряженно стоит у |
| + | притолоки и говорит: "Жду, как разрешит все Тот, кто все разрешает". А тут телеграмма. |
| + | Хлопочет Ж.; он многое знает. Именно с ним можно иногда побеседовать о самых сокровенных |
| + | преданиях. Это он также рассказал монгольскую версию о поездке Учителя в Монголию. |
| + | Странно слышать начало повести в Индии, а конец в Монголии. Так связывается вся молчащая |
| + | пустыня одною напряженною мыслью. Не знаем, как встретит нас Тибет. Если прекрасен |
| + | Ладак, называемый Малым Тибетом, то Великий Тибет должен быть необыкновенно |
| + | величественен. Впрочем, часто человечество ошибается названиями, и "малое" оказывается |
| + | великим. Без предрассудков и суеверий увидим действительность. |
| + | |
| + | И опять начались всякие трудности. И опять неожиданные друзья. Из них эсперантист в |
| + | Урге. Они желают нам помочь выехать и заботливо провожают нас. И похожи на башни высоко |
| + | груженые моторы. |
| + | |
| + | На реке Иро родился странный ребенок. Скоро после рождения он произнес пророчество, а |
| + | затем стал как бы обычным мальчиком. Но пророчество оказалось тем самым о будущем |
| + | Монголии, которое передано нам в Сиккиме ламою. Монголы очень запомнили это. |
| + | |
| + | В Монголии необычайно развиты волевые действия. Нам передавали несколько случаев |
| + | воздействий на далеких расстояниях. Недавно молодой монгольский лама написал книгу о |
| + | пути в Шамбалу. Известны книги, написанные об этом пути таши-ламою, настоятелем |
| + | Утайшаня, бурятским ламою. Теперь туда же направляется и мышление монголов. Да и многие |
| + | соседние народы понимают всю реальность значения Шамбалы. Некоторые монгольские ламы |
| + | многое знают. Мы им задавали вопросы, и все отвеченное ими было очень основательно. Но |
| + | не так легко заслужить их доверие. По этим вопросам из ближайших к Улан-Батор-Хото |
| + | монастырей хорошей славою пользуется Манджушри Хит, откуда был похищен покойный |
| + | богдо-геген. Все значительно легендами в Монголии. |
| + | |
| + | На стоянках среди юрт и стад, по холмам Гоби разносится песнь наших монголов. Поют песнь |
| + | Шамбалы, недавно сложенную монгольским героем Сухэ-Батором: "Мы идет в священную войну |
| + | Шамбалы. Пусть мы перевоплотимся в священной стране...". Так бодро и звонко посылают |
| + | монголы в пространство свои чаяния. Также и в новой Монголии знают действительность |
| + | Шамбалы. Место для будущего дуканга Шамбалы уже огорожено в Улан-Батор-Хото. Знают |
| + | монголы о приездах Владыки Шамбалы в Эрдени-Дзо и в Нарабанчи. Знают о Держателях. Знают |
| + | о великих временах. Знают о чаше Будды, которая после Пешавара хранилась в Карашаре и |
| + | временно исчезла. Знают о приходе Благословенного на Алтай. Знают о значении Алтая. |
| + | Знают о Белой Горе. Знают о священных знаках над древним субурганом около Хотана. Знают |
| + | и вести из Китая. Знают вести из Индии. Через все молчаливые пространства Азии несется |
| + | голос о будущем. Время Майтрейи пришло. |
| + | |
| + | Едем на моторах через мелкие реки по весеннему бездорожью. Именно по десять поломок в |
| + | день. Если проехать семьдесят миль, то уже день счастливый, а то и двенадцать миль не |
| + | сделать. Много керексуров (старых могил), курганы – следы великого переселения. |
| + | Замечательная каменная баба – здесь, говорят, жил знаменитый разбойник, а теперь он |
| + | превратился в хранителя пути. Путники мажут жиром губы изваяния, чтобы испросить |
| + | милость. Наш Кончок требует у изваяния хорошего пути для нас. На пути черепа и кости. |
| + | Трупик ребенка, обернутый овчиной. Турпаны, дикие гуси, всякие утки летят к северу. |
| + | Стада куланов. |
| + | |
| + | Ясно, что на моторах далеко не уедем. Дорога не отмечена. Местные проводники сами |
| + | путаются направлением. А главное – машины совсем плохие. Лишь бы добраться до границы, |
| + | до монастыря Юм-Бейсе. Там придется взять верблюдов. |
| + | |
| + | Слышим легенды. То, что говорилось о посещении Владыкою Шамбалы монастырей Нарабанчи и |
| + | Эрдени-Дзо, подтверждается в разных местах. |
| + | Юм-Бейсе, неприятное ветреное место. Сам монастырь неуютен, и ламы неприветливы. Над |
| + | монастырем на горе воздвигнут огромный фаллос... |
| + | |
| + | Бесконечные переговоры о найме каравана. До Шибочена (за Аньси) предположено идти три |
| + | недели. Конец апреля для верблюдов уже нехорош; уже жарко и шерсть падает, а с нею |
| + | уходит и верблюжья сила. Находится проводник – старый лама-контрабандист, предлагает |
| + | провести короткою дорогой через дикие места. Обычно там не ходят, боясь безводья, но |
| + | лама ходил там не менее двадцати раз и знает, что там есть колодцы и речки, и родники. |
| + | Но и на обычной дороге весною могут пересохнуть колодцы, и потому лучше идти по краткой |
| + | тропе. Единственная опасность этого направления – шайки знаменитого Дже-ламы. Но сам он |
| + | уже убит, а его соучастники рассеялись. Хотя этот район все-таки признается опасным, |
| + | лама-проводник уверяет, что теперь можно пройти эти места безопасно. И мы предполагаем, |
| + | что наш проводник не был ли сам доверенным лицом Дже-ламы. Слишком много он знает о нем |
| + | и очень уверен, что с ним мы пройдем. Знает, как Дже-лама заставлял пленников строить |
| + | укрепленный город, мимо которого мы пройдем. Решили идти новым путем. |
| + | |
| + | Бесконечна Центральная Гоби. И белая, и розовая, и синяя, и графитно-черная. Вихри |
| + | устилают пологие скаты потоком камней. Не попадайте в этот каменный вихрь. Гроза Гоби – |
| + | высохшие колодцы. Иногда отверстие колодца завалено павшими животными. Можно миновать |
| + | безводье обходным путем на восток, но там китайские шайки. |
| + | |
| + | Ночь. Костры. Дозорные. В этом ущелье недавно был ограблен караван. И вдруг тишина |
| + | нарушается сильным винтовочным выстрелом. Затоптаны огни. Залегла цепь наших людей с |
| + | карабинами. Кто стрелял по лагерю? Где-то лают собаки... Вызывается доброволец на |
| + | разведку. Условлено: если он запоет, то все благополучно. Настороженная тишина, и, |
| + | наконец, из темноты доносится веселая песня. Стрелял китаец – хозяин каравана. Он очень |
| + | испугался, увидев наши костры. Подумал, что разбойники. |
| + | |
| + | Нирва, вожак каравана, насвистывает ветер среди зноя полудня. Как продавец ветра в |
| + | приморье Древней Греции, монгол протяжно, минорно свистит – точно ветер шевелит головки |
| + | пустынного ковыля. Ветерок начинается. Монгол кивает нам, чтобы обратили внимание. |
| + | Продавцы ветров. Какой сюжет для оперы или симфонии! |
| + | |
| + | Из белой гальки по лону Гоби выложены фигуры рукой неизвестного странника. Есть |
| + | священные надписи, но есть и эротические изображения, отвратительные среди величия |
| + | пустыни. |
| + | |
| + | Опять нужны предосторожности. Опять нужно надеть монгольские кафтаны. Подходим к городу |
| + | знаменитого разбойника Дже-ламы, или Тушегун-ламы. На ночь станем где-то близко. В |
| + | густых сумерках что-то темнеет за холмами. Лает собака... Хотя сам Дже-лама недавно убит |
| + | монголами, но банды его еще не рассеялись. Огни на ночь не разводим. Удваиваем дозоры. |
| + | |
| + | На утро мы слышим изумленные восклицания: "Вот и город над нами!" На холме высятся башни |
| + | и стены – подлинный город. Внушительный и живописный. Юрий и П. К. с карабинами на руке |
| + | идут исследовать, а монголы провожают их советами осторожности. Следим в бинокли. Но вот |
| + | наши показались на стене – значит, разбойники покинули замок. |
| + | |
| + | Не простой разбойник-грабитель был Дже-лама. Он окончил курс Петроградского университета |
| + | на юридическом факультете и стал высоким ламой в Тибете, обладая большими оккультными |
| + | сведениями. Разве ночной грабитель будет ставить на высоком месте издали зримый город? |
| + | Какие думы и мечтания тревожили седую голову Дже-ламы, которую долго потом возили на |
| + | копье по базарам Монголии?.. По Центральной Гоби будет долго жить легенда о Дже-ламе, |
| + | заманчивый сценарий для синема. |
| + | |
| + | К каравану подъезжают какие-то странные верховые и спрашивают монголов о количестве |
| + | нашего оружия. Монголы что-то шепчут им и размахивают руками, показывая что-то большое, |
| + | а потом сообщают нам: люди Дже-ламы. Они нас не тронут. |
| + | |
| + | Подходим к Аньси. Неясные слухи о каких-то китайских войсках. Встретиться с ними похуже, |
| + | чем с людьми Дже-ламы. Обойдем Аньси ночью. Но нирва теряет дорогу. Рассвет застает нас |
| + | перед стенами Аньси. Поворачиваем верблюдов и спешим перейти широкий, быстрый арык. К |
| + | вечеру мы уже выйдем за пределы Ганьсу и вступим в область Кукунора. На горах видим |
| + | развалины крепостей – памятники бывших восстаний дунган. |
| + | |
| + | Быстрые реки. Впереди снежная цепь гор Наньшаня. |
| + | |
| + | Кончилась Центральная Гоби. Кончилась безводная Внутренняя Монголия с источенными |
| + | временем золотоносными хребтами; величественное дно ушедших стремнин, где притаились |
| + | всякие останки древних гигантов. |
| + | |
| + | Первое июня. Уже десять дней мы стоим на серебристых берегах Шибочена. Пылает при |
| + | восходе солнца Наньшань. Журчит горный поток. Белеют стада коз и баранов. Мелькают |
| + | всадники – какие-то вести несут? Ползут слухи. Когда же пойдем дальше? Пугают, что не |
| + | раньше сентября. Причин много. Еще и трава должна вырасти. И верблюды должны утучнеть и |
| + | обрасти шерстью. И цайдамские опасные топи должны обсохнуть. И Голубая река должна |
| + | улечься на осень. Ждем вести из Сучжоу и Чанмара, а пока хитрый Мачен, ученик китайцев, |
| + | обсчитывает нас. Старый хитрец называет меня "американским королем" и много раз за день |
| + | скачет от своей ставки до нашего стана. |
| + | |
| + | После удачных лечений монголы просят нас вызвать дождь ввиду неслыханной засухи. |
| + | Предлагают по пять долларов от каждой юрты. |
| + | |
| + | Несмотря на все козни Мачена, мы перебрались на Шарагол, под хребет имени Гумбольдта. |
| + | Вовремя перешли мутный зыбучий Шарагол с его бесчисленными рукавами. Кончок едва не |
| + | утопил своего серого китайского коня. |
| + | Стоим у горного ключа на взгорье перед Улан-Даваном [16 000 футов (≈4900 м)] по дороге |
| + | на Тибет. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетцы толкуют, что по время бегства далай-ламы в 1904 году при переходе через Чантанг |
| + | и люди, и кони почувствовали сильное трясение. Далай-лама пояснил, что они находятся в |
| + | заповедной черте Шамбалы. Много ли знает далай-лама о Шамбале? Таши-лама знает больше. |
| + | |
| + | Пятое июля. Справляют праздник Майтрейи. В палатке Шамбалы происходит долгое служение. |
| + | Приходит толпа соседних монголов, и их голоса смешиваются с пением наших лам. |
| + | |
| + | Монгольские "дворяне" драпируются широкими складками средневековых кафтанов. Одели серые |
| + | войлочные шапочки, как будто с картин Гоццоли, и навесили на шею священные киоты и |
| + | ладанки. Вихрь и песочный буран. В два часа дня пришлось наглухо закрыться в палатках и |
| + | зажечь свечи. |
| + | |
| + | Рисую план субургана на месте Шамбалы, где останавливался на ночлег Великий Держатель. |
| + | |
| + | Одиннадцатого июля нирва из монастыря Кумбум привез пророчества и новую молитву |
| + | таши-ламы Шамбале. |
| + | |
| + | П.К. уже третий день скачет в Махой за верблюдами. |
| + | |
| + | Составляются три новые книги. Забелели снегом вершины, свеж воздух, и тишина напоминает |
| + | наши гималайские высоты, куда стремится дух наш. Монголы заглядываются на виды |
| + | Нью-Йорка. Для них Америка – страна обетованная. Они шепчут: "Это достижение Шамбалы". |
| + | Не проходит и дня без толков о сказочной Америке. |
| + | |
| + | Четырнадцатого июля годовой праздник монголов. Сооружают новое обо, скачки, пированье. |
| + | Молодежь нашего стана отпросилась на праздник. |
| + | |
| + | С утра беседовали о необходимости паназиатского языка, который хотя бы в примитивной |
| + | форме примирил бы триста наречий Азии. Если бы на Западе понимали, что значит в Азии |
| + | слово Шамбала или Гессер-хан! |
| + | |
| + | Начался дождь и ветер. Половина июля похожа на осень. Ночью в горах шумит ливень. |
| + | |
| + | Среди дождей и грозы долетают самые неожиданные вести. Такое насыщение пространства |
| + | поражает. Даже имеются вести о проезде здесь Учителя [Махатмы] сорок лет тому назад. |
| + | Опять разыгрался настоящий буран и ливень. Холодно. |
| + | |
| + | Двадцатого июля получены указания чрезвычайного значения. Трудновыполнимые, но |
| + | приближающие следствия. Никто в караване еще не подозревает о ближайшей программе. На |
| + | следующий день опять важные вести, и опять спутники не знают о них. Сверяйте эти числа с |
| + | вашими событиями. Принесли золото от Улан-Давана. Опять вихрь. Рая вообще не слыхала о |
| + | Христе, ей уже тринадцать лет. Так быстро уходят из жизни даже краеугольные понятия. |
| + | |
| + | Азара первоначально значило – халдейский жрец. |
| + | |
| + | 24 июля. Это не только наш день, но и день окончания нашего субургана. Монголы помогают |
| + | сооружению, привозят сокровище – норбу-ринпоче – камушки и зерна для вложения в чашу |
| + | субургана. Туда же заложено и Акдордже и Майтрейя Сангха. |
| + | |
| + | Лель – по-индустани означает " красный". |
| + | |
| + | Конец июля. "Иду радостно в бой". Lapis Exilis – блуждающий камень. Вчера буряты |
| + | пророчествовали что-то сумрачное. Именно: "Посылаю лучшие токи для счастливого решения |
| + | дел". Предполагаем выступить через Цайдам к Тибету девятнадцатого августа. Отважимся |
| + | пересечь Цайдам по новому пути. |
| + | |
| + | К вечеру двадцать восьмого прискакал Ч. [Н.В.] с мечом и кольцом. Не успели выслушать |
| + | его, как по ущелью вместо мирного ручья хлынул губительный поток. Вот следствие |
| + | странного ночного шума в горах. Снесло потоком кухню, столовую палатку, шатер Юрия. Мы |
| + | ходим по пояс в воде. Погибло множество незаменимых вещей. Погибло много монгольских |
| + | юрт. Ч. [Н.В.] рассказал, что за день до его отъезда от непонятной причины у Я. сгорели |
| + | танки, присланные нами. Знаменательно. Сопоставляйте. |
| + | |
| + | Кончаем субурган. Старший лама Цайдама приедет освятить его. Князь Курлык-Бейсе прислал |
| + | посланцев, предлагает свой караван. Знаменательно, ибо этот князь обычно вредил |
| + | проезжим. |
| + | |
| + | Пятое августа. Нечто очень замечательное! В десять с половиной утра над станом при |
| + | чистом синем небе пролетел ярко-белый, сверкающий на солнце шаровидный аппарат. Семеро |
| + | из лагеря наблюдали это необыкновенное явление. Направление – с северо-востока на юг. |
| + | Энергия А. Брат Д.К. Замечательно! |
| + | |
| + | Седьмого августа освящен субурган. Приехал цайдамский геген. Наехало до тридцати гостей |
| + | монголов. Служение у субургана. Обещали нам хранить субурган Шамбалы. Лишь бы дунгане не |
| + | разрушили его. |
| + | |
| + | Бунт среди бурят. Они пошли к китайцам с ложным на нас доносом. Вместо бунтоватых бурят |
| + | мы взяли трех торгутов. Хорошие стрелки. |
| + | |
| + | После бурятского доноса приехали китайские солдаты с чиновником сининского амбаня. |
| + | Осмотрели наши паспорта. Конечно, опять вымогательство. Заплатили китайцам. Монголы |
| + | возмущены этим вымогательством. |
| + | |
| + | Неожиданные гости прилетают из пустыни. Под вечер прискакал таинственный незнакомец в |
| + | золотошитом монгольском наряде. Кто он? Спешно прошел в шатер. Не называя себя, сказал, |
| + | что он друг наш и должен предупредить о готовящемся нападении на нас на тибетской |
| + | границе. Предупредил о необходимости усиленных караулов и разведочных разъездов. Сказал |
| + | и ускакал. Кто он? Наши ламы говорят: "Или вор, или разбойник, или сборщик на |
| + | монастырь". Всем не понравился роскошный наряд незнакомца. Но он был друг, он хотел |
| + | помочь. Опять сюжет для оперы. |
| + | |
| + | Девятнадцатого августа мы выступили через Цайдам на Тибет. Памятна ночь в Цайдаме, когда |
| + | пересекали соляные топи. Остановиться нельзя. Нужно идти сто двадцать миль без отдыха. |
| + | Во тьме ночи еле заметна тропа. Проходим самой опасной дорогой, но сознавая этого. По |
| + | сторонам узкой тропы бездонные ямы. Неверный шаг – и вернуться нельзя. Трудно, но зато |
| + | Цайдам пересечен в новом, кратчайшем направлении. Много неточностей в картах. |
| + | |
| + | Когда мы проходили Цайдам, он оказался совсем не таким, каким он показан на картах; |
| + | невольно смотрелось на запад. Там розовели безбрежные пески. Вспоминалось, что от |
| + | Цайдама до Куэнь-Луня на картах показано сплошное пустынное пространство. Конечно, все |
| + | это место не исследовано. Между тем там, в складках нагорий, может быть много |
| + | замечательного. Из области Хотана и Черчена могли в этом направлении распространиться |
| + | древние буддийские монастыри. Могли быть интересные отшельничества и памятники-пещеры. |
| + | Но даже сами монголы мало говорят об этих местах. Толкуют о пропавших в песках |
| + | караванах, о занесенных городах, но все это в пределах сказаний. |
| + | |
| + | Замечателен жест приветствия у цайдамских монголов. Они поднимают руки так, как будто |
| + | молятся солнцу. Это так ритмично и красиво! Это напомнило мне прекрасный жест индусских |
| + | браминов, который я видел в Бенаресе во время часа утренней молитвы. Вспоминаю также и |
| + | прекрасный жест мусульман, совершающих молитву перед древним мазаром. |
| + | |
| + | Толкуют о каких-то иностранцах, бывших в Тейджинере и скупивших там старинные вещи. |
| + | Опять говорят, что иностранцы приехали и увезли "бурханов" из Дуньхуана. Очевидно, со |
| + | знаменитыми пещерными храмами что-то произошло. Уж очень упорно и в разных областях об |
| + | этом рассказывается. Мало ли вещей похищалось для музеев Европы, но об этих "бурханах" |
| + | от Кашгара, от Урумчи до самых границ Тибета толкуют. |
| + | |
| + | Полуобглоданные трупы людей и коней у дороги. Это следы недавнего боя монголов с |
| + | голоками. Монголы снимают юрты и спешат под защиту князя Курлык-Бейсе. Скоро перевал |
| + | Нейджи, место, о котором предупреждал наш неведомый доброжелатель. Все будто спокойно, |
| + | но около стоянки найден свежий костер и оброненная длинная трубка. Здесь были люди |
| + | недавно. |
| + | |
| + | Утром едем как всегда. Впереди Юрий и П.К. в разъезде. Затем все верховые – мы и ламы. |
| + | За нами на некотором расстоянии – торгуты с мулами. А дальше отстал караван с верблюдами |
| + | под охраной Голубина, Кончока и Церинга. Впереди нас ущелье с двумя холмами. Елена |
| + | Ивановна, всегда чуткая, слышит далекий лай собак... Вдруг через ущелье между холмами |
| + | начинают проскакивать вооруженные всадники, скрываясь за холмом. Санге-лама кричит: |
| + | "Аранган", то есть разбойники. Даю приказ повернуть назад, чтобы занять вершину холма и |
| + | соединиться с торгутами. На вершине вместо атакованных мы оказались атакующими и |
| + | командующими положением. Отряд панагов остановился, очевидно, не ожидав нашего маневра. |
| + | К ним подскакали полковник, торгут Очир и бурят Бухаев с грозным предупреждением. |
| + | Остальные, готовые к бою, наблюдали. Панаги, неожиданно застигнутые, спешились и в знак |
| + | покорности положили винтовки. Один из них держал длинное копье – знак объявленной войны. |
| + | Мы хотели купить это копье, но они сказали: "Мы не можем продать, это – друг наш". |
| + | Главное, всегда действуйте смело. |
| + | |
| + | На другой день готовилось еще нападение, но сильная снежная метель с громом расстроила |
| + | суеверных панагов. И так перешли Нейджи. Любовались огромными стадами диких яков. Одного |
| + | из них убили торгуты. Впереди нас снежный хребет Ангар-Дакчин, то есть Марко Поло. |
| + | Смешно давать европейские имена местности, которая издавна имела свои наименования. К |
| + | ночи умер от кровотечения монгольский лама. Жаль. |
| + | |
| + | За Ангар-Дакчином – Кокушили, те самые Кокушили, которые знают староверы на Алтае, эти |
| + | искатели Беловодья. Тут уже недалеко заповедные границы. Счастливо минуем реки. Ни |
| + | весною, ни летом их не перейти верхом. Но сейчас, осенью, вода не выше стремян, и только |
| + | две лошади завязли. Даже Голубая река с ее быстрым течением не явилась препятствием. |
| + | |
| + | Ждем тибетские посты. Почему их нет? Что-то забелело вдали... Снег? Но нигде кругом |
| + | снега нет... Шатер? Но это нечто слишком большое. Оказалось, гигантский гейзер |
| + | глауберовой соли. Белоснежная, сверкающая на солнце глыба – уже заповедная граница. |
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| @@ 0,0 1,729 @@ | |
| + | # Book 1 - Chapter 32 |
| + | |
| + | 6 октября |
| + | |
| + | Точно, черные пауки на длинных ногах, притаились черные палатки тибетцев, подтянутые на |
| + | длиннейших веревках. Пограничные разъезды отбирают наш паспорт и предлагают стоять два |
| + | дня, пока они привезут ответ генералахорчичаба, то есть от главного правителя области |
| + | Хор и главнокомандующего северным фронтом. Какие цветистые титулы! |
| + | |
| + | Стоим среди болотистой равнины, поросшей убогой колючей травою. На горизонте виднеется |
| + | озеро и "умершие" горы. Называют их "умершими", ибо они похожи на настоящее кладбище. |
| + | Когда-то великие горы, может быть, соперники Эвереста, разрушились, распались мелким |
| + | щебнем. Глубокие долины заполнились, и получилось нагорье в 15 000 футов (≈4600 м), |
| + | открытое свирепым ветрам. Перед самыми знаменательными местами, перед небесными |
| + | Гималаями, попадаете в жуткую тундру. Кони скользят и оступаются среди уродливых кочек. |
| + | Ни птицы, ни зверя. |
| + | |
| + | Юрий валится в седле и почти падает с коня. Мы подскочили и сняли его с коня. Пульса |
| + | почти нет. Дали два сильных приема дигиталиса, растираем руки. Ему становится легче. |
| + | |
| + | Впереди плохо чувствует себя Елена Ивановна. Из последних сообщают, что лама Малонов |
| + | упал с коня и лежит без чувств на дороге. Доктор спешит туда. Так неприветливо встречает |
| + | нас Тибет. |
| + | |
| + | Пестрое знамя с покривившимся навершием. Музыка – барабаны и волынки. Стрельба салюта. В |
| + | глубине шатра маленькая фигурка генерала в ярко-желтом халате. На круглой китайской |
| + | шапке крестообразное акдордже из рубинов. Ласковая речь и опять просьба побыть у него в |
| + | лагере только два дня. Затем генерал провожает нас в наш стан со знаменем и музыкой и с |
| + | пестрой толпою свиты. |
| + | |
| + | В полной ненужности проходят впечатления приема у Капшёпа. Знамя с покривившимся |
| + | навершием, бутафорский меч, нечистота под драгоценными камнями, вся старая китайщина, от |
| + | которой сами китайцы уже отказались. Она и непригодна для жизни и уже потеряла прежнюю |
| + | декоративность, ибо ушло качество производства. Вся тонкость художества исчезла. |
| + | Выступила вся неприглядность и убогость. Вероятно, генерал думал, что впечатление от его |
| + | желтого халата было очень велико. Но даже ближайший его конвой был оборван и украшен |
| + | пуговицами трех армий, но не тибетской. Там же, где не хватало чужой пуговицы, там с |
| + | особым успехом красовалась английская булавка. Ружья сомнительной пригодности, но зато |
| + | множество музыкантов. Опять барабанный бой и салютные выстрелы. Генерал со своею |
| + | разношерстною толпою провожает нас в наш лагерь. Заодно любопытствует посмотреть наши |
| + | вещи, объявляя, чтобы "руки меньших чинов не касались вещей великих людей". |
| + | |
| + | Капшёпа будто бы приезжал, чтобы уладить какие-то волнения среди хорпа. Но он будто бы |
| + | также запретил охоту на мускусных баранов. Совершенно непонятно, почему можно убивать |
| + | домашних баранов, яков, но все находящееся в диком состоянии защищается. Впрочем, |
| + | население держится иного мнения и стреляет куланов. |
| + | |
| + | Наш тибетец Чампа умирает. Он был нам полезен при столкновении с панагами и при решении |
| + | монголов бросить нас после Нейджи. Но как только Чампа дошел до Тибета, его природа |
| + | взяла верх, а при переезде к лагерю хорчичаба он отделился от нас, забрал пять |
| + | верблюдов, нашу палатку и прервал все отношения с нами. Какова тибетская |
| + | благодарность! |
| + | |
| + | Даже тибетец не выдерживает здешнего климата. Это уже третий покойник в караване. |
| + | Монгольский лама умер от воспаления легких, харчинский лама – от высот. Не чуяли ли |
| + | мертвеца медведи, когда подбирались к лагерю в ночь его смерти? Но им недолго пришлось |
| + | ждать; уже утром труп был оставлен им на съедение. |
| + | |
| + | Генерал Капшёпа принял наш подарок и уехал в Кам. И ласковые два дня превращаются в |
| + | свирепые пять месяцев нашего стояния в летних палатках при морозах свыше 60°С, при |
| + | ураганных вихрях на высоте 15 000 футов (≈4600 м). Оставлен с нами всегда пьяный майор и |
| + | дикие оборванцы солдаты. Запрещено говорить с проходящими караванами; запрещено покупать |
| + | пищу от населения. Медленно погибает караван. Каждый день у палаток новые трупы, и стаи |
| + | диких псов шумно делят свою новую трапезу. Из 104 караванных животных погибает |
| + | девяносто. Умерло пять человек: три монгольских ламы и два тибетца. Малонов отекает от |
| + | сердечных припадков и наконец тоже умирает. Жена приставленного к нам майора заболевает |
| + | воспалением легких и умирает. Грифы и орлы спорят со стаями собак о добыче. |
| + | |
| + | Письмо мое к далай-ламе найдено на дороге в изорванном виде, а гонец будто бы исчез. |
| + | Перехвачены мои письма к полковнику Бейли – британскому резиденту в Сиккиме, и к |
| + | генеральному консулу Соединенных Штатов в Калькутте. Запрещено идти назад, запрещено |
| + | двинуться вперед. Возмутительно! Несмотря на знание Юрием тибетского языка, можем лишь |
| + | изучать тибетскую жизнь во всем ее неприкрашенном виде, но помочь своему положению не |
| + | можем. Тибетцы лгут ежедневно. Говорят, что телеграф между Лхасой и Индией уничтожен, |
| + | ибо теперь Тибет не нуждается в сношении с "пелингами"; что лхасское правительство не |
| + | принимает во внимание свидетельство доктора о наших болезнях; что наш паспорт потеряли |
| + | по дороге, но хотя тут же свидетели опровергают эту выдумку. Говорят о пропавших гонцах |
| + | генерала [в Лхасу]. Вместо помощи майор запрещает покупать пищу в соседних аилах, |
| + | препятствует переговорам с проходившим караваном и безбожно обсчитывает на размене |
| + | китайских долларов. Доктор пророчествует о грядущих смертельных заболеваниях при |
| + | крепнущих морозах. Н.В. предлагает переодетым пробраться в Индию, но без языка и при его |
| + | росте это кончилось бы печально. |
| + | |
| + | Весь народ – эти черные хоры, как маленькие нибелунги, неспокойны. Спят сидя, едят сырое |
| + | мясо, прикрыты полуистлевшими, черными от копоти костров меховыми кафтанами. Они шепчут: |
| + | "Завален край неслыханным снегом. Падут наши яки и бараны. Не будет у нас цампы |
| + | (ячменя), умрут наши дети и мы умрем. А все несчастье оттого, что правительство с |
| + | великими приезжими людьми бесчеловечно". |
| + | |
| + | Гадают ламы, и все у них выходит хорошо, и что вестник с добрым ответом уже едет, уже |
| + | завтра прискачет. Но дни тянутся. Крепнут морозы и вихри. На белой равнине нет никого. |
| + | Падают кони и верблюды. За ночь подходят дрожащие животные к самым палаткам, дергают |
| + | веревки, точно стучаться, а на рассвете находим их мертвыми. И закутанные в овчину наши |
| + | люди тащат павших за несколько шагов от лагеря. Иначе стаи диких собак и |
| + | грифы-могильщики не дадут покоя. Одна стая собак, около пятнадцати, уже пробовала |
| + | нападать на людей. Весь день оружие остается при нас. Хочет майор купить наше оружие, |
| + | чтобы лишить нас средств всякой защиты. Берегите оружие. |
| + | |
| + | Опять морозы, вихри, запрещение покупать пищу и сноситься с проходящими караванами. |
| + | Приходы лживого и пьяного майора. Восстание и отделение наших лам-бурят, думавших ложью |
| + | и клеветою на нас улучшить свое положение. |
| + | |
| + | И так каждый день среди мерзлой равнины с вялыми мрачными очертаниями мертвых гор. Затем |
| + | сделали небольшой переезд из Чунаргена в Шаруген [к монастырю бон-по]. Всего два часа |
| + | пути, и опять тот же плен. Просили пустить нас в ставку Капшёпа в Каме, ответили: ["Ме, |
| + | ме, ме", что значит] "нельзя". Просили пропустить нас Восточным Тибетом – опять "ме, ме, |
| + | ме". Все "ме, ме, ме". А в то же время генерал Капшёпа пишет нам нелепое письмо о |
| + | "каплях милосердия, упадающих с пресветлых пальцев далай-ламы". Так проходят недели. И |
| + | вдруг сами губернаторы Нагчу едут. |
| + | |
| + | Неслыханное дело, чтобы оба губернатора одновременно выезжали. Они пришли в черных |
| + | очках, в мохнатых малахаях; шумели, чтобы навести страх. Удивлялись, что мы придаем |
| + | значение тибетскому паспорту, и вообще вели себя глупо и нагло. Один из них – бывший |
| + | лама, как говорят, задушивший сининского амбаня. Другой – старый маньчжурист-чиновник, |
| + | проевший зубы на кляузах. Мы терпеливо пережили все их благоглупости. Теперь нас |
| + | перевезут в Нагчу, но ведь это тот же плен. А затем будто бы "упадут капли милосердия" и |
| + | нам разрешат пройти на Сикким. Конечно, будет избран самый нелепый путь. Конечно, при |
| + | всяком удобном случае еще задержат, еще потребуют подарки, но все-таки когда-то |
| + | двинемся. Кто из нас надеется, что наш плен ограничится ста днями, но не будет ли |
| + | правильнее предположить сто пятьдесят дней, да прикиньте еще все задержки по пути. |
| + | Значит, на все задержание положите полгода. Конечно, за это время тибетцы дают нам |
| + | необычайный случай знакомиться с их жизнью, обычаями и этикой. Без сношений с |
| + | губернаторами, генералом, дзонг-пенами, офицерами, старшинами и ламами мы не могли бы |
| + | составить убеждение о действительности Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Свиреп предрассветный мороз. Конечно, более 70°С. Утром у доктора замерз коньяк. Сколько |
| + | же градусов было, чтобы крепкое вино замерзло? Доктор по-прежнему пессимистичен и ждет |
| + | опасностей. Здоровье Н.В. и П. К. плохое. Очеру предсказана смерть. Хорошо держатся |
| + | Людмила и Рая, или, как тибетцы зовут их, Мила и Рея. |
| + | |
| + | Какие скучные холмы между Чунаргеном и Нагчу. Давно разрушились горы, и сейчас |
| + | распадаются кучи щебня и гальки. Ни куста, ни дерева; только высокие, неприятные коням |
| + | кочки с усатой колючей травою. Говорят нам, что, придя к Центральному Тибету, мы будем |
| + | поражены переменой природы. Но другие усмехаются, говоря, что до самых Гималаев будем |
| + | следовать кладбищем разрушенных гор. Бедные хорпа. Зубы их выпадают от цинги, мускулы |
| + | дряблы. Сил меньше, чем у тринадцатилетней Раи. Конечно, тощее сырое мясо и горсть |
| + | грязной цампы на дадут здоровья. И как безмерна подозрительность друг к другу. Не верят |
| + | никому, боятся, готовы ждать постоянной напасти. Монголы, несмотря на дунганских |
| + | каверзных чиновников, сравнительно с тибетцами – свободные люди. |
| + | |
| + | Повсюду знаки креста. И старые монгольские монеты несторианских ханов – с крестом, и над |
| + | древним буддийским монастырем под Пекином – крест, и на чепраке седла – крест, и |
| + | налобник уздечки снабжен крестом. Даже и на камнях Ладака и Синьцзяна – кресты. |
| + | Несториане и манихеи широко прошли по Азии. На фресках монастырей – кресты, на узоре |
| + | кафтана, на четках, на бусах, на ладанках – тот же крест. Не свастика со струями огня, |
| + | но равноконечный, вечный символ жизни. На китайских шапках тибетских генералов горит |
| + | рубиновое крестообразное дордже. Конь счастья несет знак его. Старые бронзовые фибулы, |
| + | может быть, из могил, – крест в круге. |
| + | |
| + | Всюду же и знаки Чинтамани. И колонки домов, и стены глинобиток отмечены этим трижды |
| + | мощным изображением. Налобники мулов, чеканные серебряные сосуды, военное знамя, лист |
| + | деревянной гравюры, молитвенный флаг усилены символом мощи. |
| + | |
| + | Сравните современный сказ с первообразом. Теперь говорят: "И стал на земле великий |
| + | голод, и погибали люди, и не могли жить более. Тогда благие Бодхисатвы послали дождь из |
| + | риса. Такое множество пищи, что не только напитались все люди, но они принесли горы риса |
| + | и сложили из риса храмы и чортены. Такой величины храмы, что не обойти их и в несколько |
| + | лет, а один главный чортен не обойти в несколько дней. Это место существует на острове, |
| + | где некогда процветало истинное учение Благословенного". |
| + | |
| + | Надо понимать: настал на земле великий духовный голод, и не могли более существовать в |
| + | темном состоянии люди. Тогда Великие Учителя послали настоящий ливень духовной пищи. |
| + | Поднятое этой благодатью человечество сложило великие памятники духовных достижений. |
| + | Размеры этих достижений необъятны. Учение Шамбалы существует в защищенном месте, и мощь |
| + | его проявится скоро. |
| + | |
| + | Любопытны монастыри бон-по – черной веры, враждебной Будде. Настоящая черная месса по |
| + | всем правилам люцифериан. Обратное хождение, обратные ритуалы, на месте Будды |
| + | вымышленное лицо с теми же биографическими подробностями. Покровитель черной веры тоже |
| + | царского рода и сопровожден подобными же атрибутами. Последователи черной веры очень |
| + | многочисленны и не пускают буддистов в свои храмы. Вместо священного "ОУМ" они |
| + | употребляют "А". Настало время сказать определенно о тибетском |
| + | "буддизме". |
| + | |
| + | Вспоминаем, сколько раз тибетцы повторяли нам, что на Западе нет буддизма, и что там |
| + | вообще буддизма не знают. Сколько раз тибетцы презрительно говорили о японцах, китайцах, |
| + | монголах, сиккимцах и о хинаяне Бирмы и Цейлона. Неслыханное самомнение отделило Тибет |
| + | от всего мира. Лучшие люди бегут из Тибета и не желают возвращаться в произвол дикого |
| + | правительства. Невежество закрыло глаза Тибету. Страна лишилась своего духовного вождя – |
| + | ушел из Тибета таши-лама. Тибетцы не хотят познавать и учиться. Ученые ламы переходят |
| + | границу Индии. Бегут переодетые: кто одевается торговцем, кто надевает парик и гримирует |
| + | лицо. Среди ужасающей грязи, зловония и падали в Нагчу тибетский чиновник удивленно |
| + | говорит нам: "Если Нагчу вам кажется грязным, то что сказали бы вы о Лхасе, где даже |
| + | питьевая вода иногда насыщена отбросами". По пути узнаем, что Ринпоче из Чумби не в |
| + | Китае, а в монастыре Гум. И этот умный лама понял, что сейчас невозможно оставаться в |
| + | Тибете. |
| + | |
| + | Ни одному сообщению нельзя верить. Все мертво кругом. За пять месяцев по главной дороге |
| + | на Китай и Монголию прошло три каравана. Тибетцы-кочевники шепчут о трудных временах для |
| + | Лхасы. Конечно, в подобном состоянии страна существовать не может. Наконец губернаторы |
| + | Нагчу удовлетворились подарками и после сообщения, что деньги у нас кончились, решили |
| + | отправить нас кружным путем через Чантанг на Намру-дзонг, Шендза-дзонг, через не |
| + | показанные на картах перевалы в 20 600 футов (≈6300 м) высоты, на Сага-дзонг, через |
| + | Брамапутру, на Тингри-дзонг, на Шекар-дзонг, на Кампа-дзонг и через Сепо-ла на Сикким. |
| + | Очевидно, решили показать нам все области Тибета, чтобы у нас не оставалось сомнений в |
| + | этой стране. Хотя не легкий путь, но от Улан-Батор-Хото до Сиккима никто еще не |
| + | проходил. |
| + | |
| + | Непонятно, для чего дзонг-пены (власти) тибетских |
| + | дзонгов (крепостей) стараются показать себя с самой отвратительной стороны. "Смотрите, |
| + | мол, какие мы грязные, вонючие, невежественные и лживые". Народ рассказывает о |
| + | лхасском девашунге (правительстве) мрачные истории. |
| + | Недовольства и восстания. |
| + | |
| + | Интересны одни лишь развалины старого Тибета. Эти древние башни и стены складывали |
| + | какие-то иные люди. Строители их знали и о Гессер-хане и о Владыке Шамбалы. Здесь были и |
| + | Ашрамы Великих Махатм. Но ведь теперь ничего этого не осталось. |
| + | |
| + | Вспоминаю камни "чудских" могил на Алтае; там прошли готы, пропитавшие своим влиянием |
| + | всю Европу. Вот и в Трансгималаях мы встречаем такие же древние могилы. Находим места |
| + | древних святилищ, которые рождают мысль о солнечном культе друидов. Мечи северян, |
| + | жителей Трансгималаев, могли быть выбраны из готской могилы в южнорусских степях. |
| + | Наплечные фибулы готских погребений, разве не напоминают они пряжки тибетских племен. И |
| + | почему Лхаса когда-то называлась Гота [согласно миссионерским хроникам]? И откуда |
| + | название племени – готы? Откуда, куда и как двигались гонимые ледниками и суровыми |
| + | моренами прародители готов? Нет ли в застывшем обиходе северян-тибетцев древних черт их |
| + | ушедших собратий? Удивительно: один хорпа напоминает Мольера, другой годился бы для типа |
| + | д'Артаньяна, третий похож на итальянского корсара, четвертый с длинными прядями волос |
| + | близок портрету Халса или Паламедеса, а тот, черный и мрачный, с орлиным носом, разве он |
| + | не палач Филиппа Второго? Не будем бояться сопоставлять то, что ярко бросается в глаза. |
| + | |
| + | [И наконец в местности Доринг (Длинный Камень) мы обнаружили целое поле менгиров, такое |
| + | же как в Карнаке. Во время двух последующих переходов мы встретили еще три небольшие |
| + | группы менгиров. Для меня было большой радостью увидеть этот несомненный знак |
| + | друидической древности.] |
| + | |
| + | "Ки-хохо" – несется клич из стана голоков. "Хой-хе" – отвечает наш стан. Так всю ночь |
| + | взаимно предупреждают врагов о недреманной бдительности стана. Но, конечно, голоки уже |
| + | осведомились о нашем оружии, учли всю боеспособность. Решение сделано в нашу пользу, и |
| + | сегодня мы увидим дружественный лик опасных кочевников. |
| + | |
| + | Черная вера бон-по так гармонична с черными палатками. На длинных веревках, как хищные |
| + | пауки, бесформенно чернеют палатки. Около них черные пятна или отбросов или падали. |
| + | Сухость воздуха уменьшает зловоние тления. Пронзительный ветер уносит высохшие кости. |
| + | Вспоминаем широковещательное полномочие ургинского доньера. Как поразительно отличен |
| + | Тибет на расстоянии. Толкуют и шепчут о восстаниях... |
| + | |
| + | На каждой остановке то же самое. Если остановка у обычного аила, то и хлопот не будет с |
| + | животными. Если в местечке живет старшина, то уже обеспечены неприятные разговоры. Но |
| + | если вы попадаете в дзонг или монастырь, то будьте готовы к задержанию. Ничто не |
| + | приготовлено, несмотря на несколько даиков-писем, посланных вперед |
| + | заблаговременно. Окажется, что даики вообще не дошли, что будто бы ошибкой их послали в |
| + | другом направлении. Окажется, что аилы, где имеются животные, очень далеко, и |
| + | потребуется несколько дней, пока соберут яков и коней. Наконец, окажется, что по |
| + | обыкновению крестьяне просто не слушают дзонг-пена и не желают исполнять его приказ. |
| + | Слишком он грабил их, слишком многое за ним известно, и крестьяне взяли его в руки. |
| + | Опять дзонг-пен предложит нам самим вести переговоры с крестьянами и написать в аилы |
| + | наше письмо за нашей печатью; и печать должна быть красной, иначе же нам придется |
| + | простоять около дзонга немало дней. Или так бывает, что один старшина предлагает нам |
| + | арестовать другого непокорного. Сам ведет нас в его ставку и предлагает связать и |
| + | отправить в Лхасу. Было и так: наши торгуты накрепко скрутили за спиною руки старшины, и |
| + | тогда его сородичи пришли с высунутыми языками и согласились исполнить указ далай-ламы. |
| + | Или губернатор предлагал нам арестовать местного майора и самим везти его связанным в |
| + | Лхасу. При таком обороте дел майор понизил тон и сделался сговорчивым. |
| + | |
| + | Когда люди лгут для своей выгоды, еще можно, с огорчением, понять их низкие намерения, |
| + | но когда они лгут против самих себя, тогда все становится окончательно мрачно |
| + | непонятным. Что только ни рассказывается тибетцами друг про друга, про правительство, |
| + | про самого далай-ламу. Даже сочетали его с какой-то монахиней. Приписали ему убийство и |
| + | отравление лам и сановников. Прямо делают из правителя какого-то изверга. |
| + | |
| + | Перед Сага-дзонгом два неожиданных перевала, один показан на картах, но другой, еще |
| + | больший, более 20 000 футов (≈6100 м), не указан. Впрочем, эта дорога на картах показана |
| + | лишь пунктиром. Никто, видимо, по ней не ходил. Есть другая обычная южная дорога, но |
| + | тибетское правительство посылает нас именно северной неисследованной тропою: пусть, мол, |
| + | лучше узнают нашу страну. |
| + | |
| + | По пути старшины отказываются давать животных и опять просят вместо паспорта |
| + | правительства всюду посылать письмо за нашей печатью. Народ не послушает приказа из |
| + | Лхасы. Но наша сургучная гербовая печать производит большое впечатление. |
| + | |
| + | С гребня перевала показалась мощная белая цепь снежных великанов. Ведь это уже Непал и |
| + | долгожданные Гималаи по ту сторону Брамапутры. |
| + | |
| + | Сага-дзонг также маленькое нищенское селение; питаются трупами животных, в ячмень |
| + | добавляют мелкую гальку. Нас задерживают и опять бесконечно лгут. Менданги осквернены |
| + | дохлыми собаками и всякой скверной. |
| + | |
| + | В стане некоторое волнение. Мы подходим к Брамапутре, той самой, которая берет исток из |
| + | священного Манасаравара – озера великих Нагов. Здесь родилась мудрая Ригведа, здесь |
| + | близок священный Кайлас, куда ходят пилигримы, предчувствуя, на каком великом пути лежат |
| + | эти места. Уже попадаются вереницы пилигримов; они с копьями, мрачные и всклокоченные. |
| + | |
| + | Нет, эти ничего не знают. Просто ползают в безделии по лицу земли. Не грабят ли при |
| + | случае? |
| + | |
| + | Среди скал и песков, в лиловых и пурпурных тонах течет Брамапутра. В мае она еще не |
| + | полна, но разливы берегов показывают, насколько увеличивается река за июнь, когда к |
| + | таянию снегов прибавятся еще и дожди. К Брамапутре еще большее уважение, чем к Голубой |
| + | реке. Голубая Янцзыцзян – длиннейшая в мире река, но Брамапутра, сын Брамы, овеяна |
| + | богатым узором преданий. Она связывает священное русло Ганга с Гималаями, а Манасаравар |
| + | близок к Сатледжу и началу великого Инда. Там же зародилась и Ариаварта. |
| + | |
| + | Рассказывает монгольский лама: "Жил очень ученый и замечательный геше. Но он носил |
| + | всегда самое скромное одеяние. Вот пришел геше навестить своего учителя, бывшего |
| + | настоятелем большого лабрана. Увидели напыщенные приближенные настоятеля скромного |
| + | посетителя и прогнали его. И еще раз пришел геше, и еще раз выгнали его. Тогда пошел |
| + | геше к торговцу на базар и просил его одолжить ему богатое платье, и положил геше за |
| + | пояс несколько камней, видом похожих на слитки китайского серебра, и в этом виде был |
| + | немедленно допущен к своему учителю. Вошел геше, снял свое богатое платье, вынул из-за |
| + | пояса камни и сложил все это в угол. Потом поклонился камням и платью, и только потом |
| + | отдал поклон своему учителю. |
| + | |
| + | Тот спросил геше: "Разве не я ваш учитель? Почему же раньше меня вы кланяетесь камням и |
| + | одежде?" |
| + | |
| + | "Правда, – отвечает геше, – вы мой учитель, но без этих вещей я не мог дойти до вас, а |
| + | потому я поклонился тому, что довело меня до моего почтенного учителя". |
| + | |
| + | Надалеко от Брамапутры прислонилась к скалам Чату-Гомпа пять монастырей, из них два |
| + | красной секты и три бон-по, черной веры. Притом монастыри черной веры выглядят гораздо и |
| + | новее, и чище, нежели красной секты. Из окон большого дуканга красного монастыря торчит |
| + | солома, вокруг уныло бродят несколько лам безнадежно запущенного вида. Черноверцы, |
| + | узнав, что мы сочувствуем буддизму, просят к их монастырям даже не приближаться. |
| + | |
| + | С удивлением рассматриваем шо – единственно ходячую |
| + | медную монету Тибета. Ни серебра, ни золота ни в дзонгах, ни у народа мы не видели. Хотя |
| + | на маленьких медяках чеканка плохая, но зато громкая надпись: "Правительство победное во |
| + | всех направлениях". Удивительно, что полу-шо и четверть-шо размерами больше самого шо. |
| + | |
| + | Вот и переправа через Брамапутру около монастыря Чи-ту. Небольшая лодка – паром с резным |
| + | коньком на носу. Особенно трудно грузить верблюдов. Течение довольно быстрое. |
| + | |
| + | Тингри-дзонг хотя и называется сильной крепостью, но представляет жалкое игрушечное |
| + | укрепление, имевшее значение разве до изобретения пороха. Монастыря нет, но есть |
| + | субурганы красной секты со страшными ликами и полосами, как знак принадлежности к |
| + | красной секте. Вспоминаем те же страшные лики на тантрических танках. Чего только на них |
| + | нет! И магические мечи, и содранные человеческие кожи, и страшные рожи с оскаленными |
| + | зубами, и обращенные вниз треугольники. Весь набор черной магии. |
| + | |
| + | Около Тингри-дзонга показался Эверест во всей его сверкающей красоте. |
| + | |
| + | Встречаем людей, знавших Свена Гедина. Хвалят его и жалеют, что он не говорил |
| + | по-тибетски. Слышал здесь о Фильхнере. Сложены уже какие-то легенды, что он на Голубой |
| + | реке оставил трех мальчиков, а также мышь, хорька и суслика. Откуда сие? Конечно, без |
| + | знания языка было бы совсем трудно. Такое счастье, что знание Юрия самими тибетцами |
| + | ставится вторым после сэра Чарльза Белла, которого нам называли "офицер мира", ибо он |
| + | вел мирные переговоры. |
| + | |
| + | Старый монастырь Чундю, принадлежащий к королевскому монастырю Са-кья. Видимо, под |
| + | древними стенами происходило многое. Вот зонтик над большим субурганом – знак прежнего |
| + | королевского отличия. Вот обвалившиеся китайские стены – память порабощения Тибета. Вот |
| + | длинный ряд старинных субурганов – память о временах спокойного века. Вот нагромождение |
| + | старых и новых закоулков и построек – вид современного нищего Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Другое тоже старинное место – Шекар-дзонг. Когда тибетцы были смелыми орлами, они не |
| + | боялись взлетать на отвесные скалы и лепить на кручах свои защищенные святыни. Целая |
| + | декорация башен, переходов и храмов. Но теперь тибетцы спустились в долину. Начальники |
| + | уже не живут в замке, а ютятся внизу, обирая народ произвольными, жестокими поборами. |
| + | Только издали привлекательны старые дзонги Тибета. Цены на продукты велики до |
| + | бессмыслия. Мешок плохого ячменя в 29 фунтов (причем в этом числе до 5 фунтов камней) |
| + | стоит в дзонгах 11 норсангов, то есть около 9 рупий. Маленький кусок ячменного сахара – |
| + | около 4–5 рупий. Лошадь на два дня пути – 8 рупий, а грузовой як – 4 рупии. |
| + | |
| + | Наши переходы неравномерны. То они кратки, то вдруг идем почти рысью девять часов. |
| + | Спешим к Кампа-дзонгу, последнему дзонгу перед границей Сиккима. Где же замок? Долго не |
| + | принимаем массив, далеко видный уже, за дзонг. Правда, строение поставлено высоко, |
| + | сливаясь со скалою. Дзонг-пен приветливее прочих. Кажется, сильно пьет, но все-таки |
| + | проявляет хоть какую-нибудь деятельность. |
| + | |
| + | Еще выше дзонга на скалах вознесся монастырь. Теперь там всего восемь лам. Но ведь там |
| + | двор, отмеченный в "Письмах [Махатм]". Там была школа, основанная Махатмами, теперь |
| + | школы уже давно нет. Опять лхасское правительство мешало ее жизни. Но старики еще |
| + | помнят, что здесь была "религиозная школа", и помнят про "высоких азара" из Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Последний перевал Сепо-ла; он легче всех прочих. Проезжаем бирюзовое озерко – исток реки |
| + | Лачен. Скромными ручьями начинается поток, который через два дня пути уже будет шуметь и |
| + | сделается непроходимым без моста. Первый аромат целебного балю и первые приземистые |
| + | кедры. Впереди цветы рододендронов. И настоящая земляника. |
| + | |
| + | Из всех наших верблюдов два перешли Гималаи. Один родом из Балагуна (Северная Монголия), |
| + | другой из Цайдама. Они будут первыми, дошедшими до Гангтока – столицы Сиккима. Оставим |
| + | их махарадже Сиккима. По всему пути от Нагчу до Гангтока верблюды привлекали толпы |
| + | любопытных. Ведь этих зверей по всему этому пути вообще не видали. От Лхасы до Калькутты |
| + | верблюды не водятся. |
| + | |
| + | В Тангу уже ждал нас дом – дак-бунгало и даже кем-то забытые журналы 27-го года. Ведь |
| + | более года мы вообще пробыли без известий из внешнего мира. |
| + | |
| + | Сказка водопадов! Целая симфония из узорчатых струй. Несколько дней идем книзу. Мимо нас |
| + | проходят все пояса растительности. Наконец показались пальмы, и около реки прошли два |
| + | леопарда, красочно-желтые с густыми черно-теплыми пятнами. Все перевидано. И черные с |
| + | белым ошейником медведи Чантанга, и серны, и аргали, и каменные круторогие бараны, и, |
| + | наконец, нарядные леопарды. |
| + | |
| + | Скромная финская миссия в Лачене. Приветливая мисс Кронквист, одиноко заброшенная среди |
| + | скал. Ее рассказы об обвалах, угрожающих по всему Сиккиму. Неужели по южной стороне |
| + | Гималаев идет тот же мертвящий процесс, который разложил вершины Чантанга? Под шум |
| + | потока Лачена, который родился и окреп на наших глазах, вспоминаем Иматру и Финляндию и |
| + | симпатичного Реландера и Акселя Галлен-Каллела. Такие же синие дали в Финляндии. |
| + | |
| + | Подводим итоги состояния каравана. Американское снаряжение выдержало все испытания. |
| + | Сундуки "Белбер" прошли из Америки четыре года по всей Азии через все переправы и |
| + | перевалы без единого повреждения. Палатки "Аберкромби и Фитч" тоже устояли под всеми |
| + | вихрями. |
| + | |
| + | Затем осталась легкая часть пути до Гангтока. Гостеприимный дом британского резидента Ф. |
| + | Бейли. Рассказываем о нашем пути. Полковник знает тибетцев и потому ничему не |
| + | удивляется. Одно обстоятельство его изумляет: зачем было держать нас всю зиму на |
| + | высотах? Посланы письма в Америку. Нам дан надежный сардар до Дарджилинга. Мы сделаем |
| + | весь путь от Гангтока в один день. Но придется переменить три мотора, ибо на Тиште |
| + | только что снесен мост и нужна пересадка. Значит, в один день три мотора и десять миль |
| + | на лошадях – крутой подъем от Тишты через Пешок. |
| + | |
| + | Нужно собрать и обработать все собранные материалы. Не скоро удастся все это. Юрий, |
| + | доктор, Н.В. и П.К. тоже готовят записки. Быстро разлетятся спутники – кто в Италию, кто |
| + | в Китай, кто в Австралию. Всюду вспомнят неповторенную красоту Гималаев. Наш путь шел от |
| + | Гималаев и обратно к ним. Величествен Каракорум и ледяное царство Сассера. Прекрасен |
| + | Куэнь-лунь. Фантастичен Тянь-Шань – Небесные горы. Широк кругозор Алтая. Декоративен |
| + | Наньшань. Суров Ангар-Дакчин. Но все это только пролог перед невыразимым величием |
| + | Гималаев. |
| + | |
| + | [В Гималаях кристаллизовалась великая веданта. В Гималаях Будда вознесся духом. Самый |
| + | воздух Гималаев пропитан духовным напряжением – истинная Майтрейя Сангха.] |
| + | |
| + | Наши друзья в Сиккиме рассказывают нам, что зимою еще они слышали, что перед Нагчу стоят |
| + | сильные отряды русской кавалерии. Такое сведение причиняло много беспокойства. Между тем |
| + | это была одна из очередных нелепых легенд о нас. За эти годы мне пришлось побывать и |
| + | французским и американским королем, и командиром русского корпуса, и королем всех |
| + | буддистов. Успел даже два раза умереть. Успел быть одновременно в Америке, в Сибири и в |
| + | Тибете. По словам цайдамских монголов, я вел войну с сининским амбанем; а по словам |
| + | хотанского даотая, я привез маленькую пушку, которая в десять минут уничтожит весь Хотан |
| + | и его сто тысяч жителей. Мы ко всему привыкли, и никакими "достоверными" слухами удивить |
| + | нас нельзя. Монголы твердо запомнили об Амери-хан. Так претворилось "American" в |
| + | какого-то воителя. Из Лхасы нам передавали целые сказки, и мы с трудом находили в них |
| + | свои признаки. |
| + | |
| + | Странно и дивно идти теми самыми местами, где проходили Махатмы. Здесь было основанная |
| + | Ими школа. В двух днях пути от Сага-дзонга был один из Ашрамов, недалеко от Брамапутры. |
| + | Здесь останавливался Махатма, спеша по неотложному делу, и стояла здесь синяя скромная |
| + | палатка. В то время когда в Европе спорят о существовании Махатм, когда индусы |
| + | проникновенно молчаливы о Них, сколько людей в просторах Азии не только знают Махатм, не |
| + | только видели Их, но и знают многие реальные случаи Их дел и появлений. Всегда жданные, |
| + | нежданно Махатмы творили в просторах Азии великую, особую жизнь. Когда нужно, Они |
| + | проявлялись. Если нужно, Они проходили незаметно, как обычные путники. Они не пишут на |
| + | скалах имен Своих, но сердца знающих хранят эти имена крепче скал. Зачем подозревать |
| + | сказку, воображение, вымысел, когда в реальных формах запечатлены сведения о Махатмах. |
| + | |
| + | В спешке, в случайном любопытстве – не узнаете даже простого химического опыта. Те, кто |
| + | в бездельном разговоре касаются вопроса о Махатмах, разве они достигнут чего-либо? Разве |
| + | их пустое любопытство будет удовлетворено? Сколько людей хотели бы получить письмо от |
| + | Махатм, но разве оно изменило бы их жизнь? Оно вошло бы как минута изумления и смущения, |
| + | а затем опять все вернулось бы к прежней рутине, без всякого следа. |
| + | |
| + | Часто изумляются, отчего люди, знающие Махатм, так различны по своему общественному |
| + | положению? Но отчего Беме был сапожником? Неужели размер сознания измеряется лишь |
| + | внешними отличиями? Дела Махатм и Их поручения ученикам рассказаны в литературе, которая |
| + | совсем не так мала, как кажется незнающим ее. Эти дела касаются как внутреннего |
| + | сознания, так и внешних событий мирового значения. И проявляются тогда, когда нужно. |
| + | |
| + | Ученые часто называют разговоры о Махатмах предрассудком. Это те ученые, которые Махатм |
| + | не видели. Но Крукс или Оливер Лодж не станут так говорить. Вивекананда, всегда стоявший |
| + | за рациональность наблюдений, знает Махатм. Знают Их многие индусы и так берегут Их |
| + | имена, что даже готовы отрицать существование Их, лишь бы не выдать, не предать. |
| + | |
| + | Лишь бы не предать! Какое очарование заложено в этом понятии Гуру, в этих ступенях |
| + | восхождения. |
| + | |
| + | Но многие стучатся в эти двери великого знания. Часто они не признаются в этом, даже |
| + | сердятся, если этот вопрос затрагивается. Сколько молодых людей хотели бы искренно |
| + | вступить в переписку с Гуру! Пробуют найти наставника, по-своему стучатся. И сколько из |
| + | них находят разочарование, ибо стучались не по адресу и не было достаточно энергии |
| + | устремления, чтобы получить истинный ответ. |
| + | |
| + | "Какая это лаборатория", – может воскликнуть, кто подходит к техническим приемам |
| + | познавания. Да, именно лаборатория, где труд и настойчивость и неустрашимость являются |
| + | ключами врат. Но зато в этом здравом рационализме, в этом истинном и бесстрашном |
| + | материализме растут крылья духа, крылья сознания. Не оторванное от жизни, не уводящее, |
| + | но созидающее – таково учение Махатм. Они говорят о научных основах существования. Они |
| + | направляют к овладению энергиями. Они говорят о тех победах труда, которые превратят |
| + | жизнь в праздник. Все предлагаемое Ими не призрачно, не эфемерно, но реально и касается |
| + | самого всестороннего изучения возможностей, предлагаемых нам жизнью. Без суеверия и без |
| + | предрассудков. Разве ученики Махатм делаются изуверами, сектантами? Наоборот, они |
| + | становятся особо жизненными людьми, побеждая в жизни и лишь ненадолго удаляясь в те |
| + | далекие горы, чтобы омыться в излучениях праны. В самых темных местах Тибета знают о |
| + | Махатмах. Знают много воспоминаний и легенд. Но сейчас внимание направлено на |
| + | предсказания о возвращении таши-ламы, во всей его славе. |
| + | |
| + | В Лхасе на улицах запрещено электричество. Запрещен кинематограф. С прошлого года в |
| + | Тибете запрещено светским людям стричь волосы, носить европейскую обувь и опять |
| + | приказано носить длинные халаты. Современные формы и обычаи армии названы красными |
| + | обычаями и запрещены. Так рассказывается самими тибетцами. Значит, и то немногое, что |
| + | открывало Тибету путь к обновлению, пресечено и отвергнуто. Значит, опять остается мрак |
| + | невежества, со всеми суевериями, убийствами, пытками и отравлениями. Этот мрак |
| + | оправдывается недопустимыми суевериями. |
| + | |
| + | Так, отравитель человека высокого положения будто бы получает себе все счастье и |
| + | преимущества отравленного. Существуют какие-то семьи, в которых право отравительства |
| + | передается как родовое преимущество, и в семье хранится состав особого яда. Потому |
| + | расположенные тибетцы советуют быть очень осторожными с чужою пищею. Можно слышать |
| + | многие рассказы, как люди были отравлены чаем или пищей, присланной им на дом как бы в |
| + | знак особого уважения. Это напоминает старые повести об отравленных предметах и особенно |
| + | кольцах. Такие кинжалы и кольца с приспособлениями для помещения яда приходилось видеть. |
| + | Такие вещи бывали и непальской работы. Видимо, и там подобные обычаи издавна процветали. |
| + | Передают, что до сих пор при погребении махараджи старший брамин должен съесть кусок |
| + | мяса покойного, и за это съевший попадет в верхние сферы неба. Много рассказывают |
| + | такого, чему даже трудно поверить. Если привести рассказы о способах лечения, то тоже не |
| + | верится, что сказанное относится к нашему времени. Но, тем не менее, с пищей надо быть |
| + | очень осторожными, тем более что помимо намеренного отравления могут быть случаи |
| + | недоброкачественности. Сушеное мясо может быть несвежим. Зерно – перемешано со всякой |
| + | грязью. Хлеб – недопечен. А китайские консервы, вследствие долгого пути и плохой |
| + | упаковки, могут быть испорчены. Конечно, одна и та же посуда служит для всевозможных, |
| + | неожиданных употреблений. Невежество и чистота не уживаются. |
| + | |
| + | Все-таки пройдена прямая дорога от Монголии через Цайдам, Тибет и Гималаи. Сперва тропою |
| + | Дже-ламы, потом пересекая в новом направлении Цайдам, через дзонги Тибета, по горным |
| + | проходам хранилищ снегов. Помог ли нам в пути паспорт далай-ламы? Помог ли паспорт, |
| + | данный "в величественном снежном дворце" губернатора Нагчу? Конечно, сундук серебряных |
| + | рупий или китайских долларов помог бы больше. Но зато мы видели, как старшины |
| + | отказывались признать приказ Лхасы. Сами губернаторы предлагали самочинные меры. И мы |
| + | имеем право сказать, как зря избитый солдатами тибетец говорил нам, выплевывая кровь |
| + | разбитых зубов: "Видите, как обращается девашунг со своим народом". |
| + | |
| + | Есть что-то сужденное в умирании старого Тибета. Колесо закона повернулось. Тайна ушла. |
| + | Тибету некого охранять, и никто не хранит Тибет. Исключительность положения как |
| + | хранителя буддизма более не принадлежит Тибету, ибо буддизм, по завету Благословенного, |
| + | делается мировым достоянием. Глубокому учению не нужны суеверия. Исканию истины противны |
| + | предрассудки. |
| + | |
| + | Первое изображение Благословенного получено Тибетом от Непала и от Китая. Получено |
| + | только в седьмом веке, более чем через тысячу лет после учения и жизни Благословенного. |
| + | Получено после того, как в Индии сложилась уже блестящая литература последователей |
| + | буддизма. Получено первое изображение тогда, когда уже по всей Азии высились прекрасные |
| + | вихары, перед которым дуканги Тибета стоят как бедные младшие братья. Теперь, когда |
| + | возникает мысль о восстановлении истинного буддизма, и эта волна минует Тибет. |
| + | |
| + | Возьмем черную магию Тибета. Вспомним их оживающие трупы, знаменитое |
| + | ролланг-воскресение, которое не что иное, как грубая форма вампиризма. Вспомним |
| + | блуждающих духов, которые убивают и всячески злоумышляют, причем часто бывают духами |
| + | именно лам. [Вспомним всякие виды одержания, когда под злым воздействием люди совершенно |
| + | меняются и временно впадают в настоящее безумие.] Вспомним злые заклинания и наваждения, |
| + | которыми вооружаются ламы для запугивания темного народа. Вспомним самоубивающие |
| + | магические кинжалы, темные гаданья, заговоры, оборотней, принявших вид зверей, и всякие |
| + | измышления злой воли. Во-первых, все это очень дурно, и такие темные занятия лам не |
| + | свидетельствуют в их пользу. Во-вторых, колдуны Малабарского берега воспроизводят всю |
| + | черную некромантию гораздо сильнее. О них знают, их опасаются, но никто не поклоняется |
| + | им и не считает их священными личностями. Малабарские "чудеса" опередили Тибет. |
| + | |
| + | Многие писавшие о Тибете называли его "чудо из чудес". Но это название могло относиться |
| + | или к прошлому Тибету, или к непониманию тех писателей, загипнотизированных традицией. |
| + | Правда, можно было назвать чудом школу, образованную Махатмами около Кампа-дзонга. Но |
| + | ведь уже много лет эта школа не существует. И кем же нарушена она? Теми лхасскими |
| + | ламами, которые не имеют ничего общего с тем многим замечательным, совершавшимся не |
| + | территории Тибета. Все это – прошлое. Теперь же немногие тибетские ламы имеют зачаточные |
| + | формы левитации, материализации, проблески воли и ясновидения. Но самое большое |
| + | испытание для лам – если, при их сомнении, вы предложите им: "Спросите вашего оракула, |
| + | что я сейчас думаю и какие намерения имею?" Тогда гадатель и прозорливец окажется |
| + | отсутствующим, а ламы приходят в смущение. Те же, кто развил в себе ясновидение, не |
| + | живут в монастырях, но живут в Лхасе. |
| + | |
| + | Правда, в горах бывают удивительные явления, но они не имеют отношения к ламству. |
| + | Вспоминаем этот поразительный огонь в палатке, опять бывший на Чантанге. Вспоминаем |
| + | многие проявления тонких энергий, но ведь Лхаса-то тут ни при чем! Поразительно |
| + | проходить местами, где еще недавно были Ашрамы. |
| + | |
| + | Но самая необычайная встреча не будет иметь ничего общего с правительством далай-ламы. |
| + | Смешение двух совершенно различных понятий следует расчленить. И Тибет не имеет более |
| + | права укрываться за не принадлежащей ему таинственностью. Рад, что мы шли открыто, что |
| + | мы спрашивали открыто тибетское правительство и говорили с тибетцами открыто. Старая |
| + | тропа переодеваний слишком импозантна для Тибета. Сейчас он должен сказать открытое |
| + | слово. |
| + | |
| + | Было бы нелепо осуждать все миллионное население Тибета. Опять ламы могут стать |
| + | образованными. Опять может появиться просвещенное правительство. И народ снова может |
| + | обрести восхождение. Многое, что представляется "павшим", просто еще "не поднялось". |
| + | |
| + | В Учении истинных заветов Благословенного имеются практические указания касательно всей |
| + | жизни. При некотором прилежании можно ознакомиться и принять к руководству эти благие |
| + | наставления. Теперь же те, которые позорят Учение, и негодные чины правительства должны |
| + | понять, что их преступная деятельность осуждена и не может продолжаться. |
| + | |
| + | Тибет провожает нас грустным сообщением. Наши три торгута – Очир, Дордже и Манджи – в |
| + | сорока милях от Гьянцзе подверглись нападению тибетцев. Двое торгутов убиты и третий |
| + | ранен. Деньги и вещи ограблены. Итак, даже единственная будто бы упорядоченная и |
| + | охраненная дорога от Индии на Лхасу уже в руках разбойников. Жаль бедных торгутов, |
| + | возвращавшихся с заработком в родные кочевья. Они были храбрые люди. Надо думать, |
| + | нападение было из предательской засады, иначе они дорого отдали бы жизнь. Запросили мы |
| + | британского резидента, чем можно помочь раненому. Природный тибетец хорошего типа |
| + | говорит": "Раньше разбойники были на севере Тибета, но при нынешнем правительстве – они |
| + | по всему Тибету. И само правительство не отличается он них", – с безнадежным жестом |
| + | оканчивает огорченный тибетец. Сколько порядочных тибетцев, столько ученых лам должно |
| + | страдать из-за недоброкачественности правителей. |
| + | |
| + | По другой версии, наши монголы дошли до Лхасы, но там были схвачены и брошены в |
| + | тибетскую тюрьму. Во всяком случае, наши бедные торгуты отведали беду. |
| + | |
| + | Последний слух из Тибета совершенно странен. Говорят, что все монголы собираются |
| + | покинуть Тибет ввиду трудных обычаев правительства. Наконец, говорят, что сам далай-лама |
| + | собирается бежать из Тибета. Если даже это просто слух, то, во всяком случае, |
| + | замечательный для настоящего положения. |
| + | |
| + | Еще слух: тибетцы рассказывают, что хорчичаб купил свое назначение командующего северным |
| + | фронтом за три тысячи норсангов. Не дорого. |
| + | |
| + | Еще слух: бедный Церинг, наш монгол, также пострадал. По пути из Нагчу в Лхасу его |
| + | ограбили, и теперь он просит милостыню на лхасском базаре. Шедуб, ехавший в Лхасу на |
| + | десять лет, уже мечтает вырваться оттуда. И его и Кедуба совершенно обобрали в Лхасе. |
| + | Кедуб тоже ищет случая выехать скорее, а ведь как стремился. Ламаджаб пробыл в Лхасе |
| + | всего два месяца, лишился всех денег и уходит с каким-то караваном в Монголию. |
| + | Благополучно дошли домой в Шарагольчи лама Санге, лама Таши и Кончок, потому что бросили |
| + | намерение идти в Лхасу и повернули из Нагчу обратно. Жаль, жаль торгутов; как бодро |
| + | носились они за куланами и дикими яками. Н.В. уже в Италии. Доктор, П.К. и Г. уже в |
| + | Китае. Так разошелся последний состав. Новые работы. Новое здание начато в Америке. И |
| + | закончится оно субурганом. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетцы, переехавшие в Сикким, говорят: "Прежде в Тибете звучали трубы в храмах, но |
| + | теперь раздаются лишь трубы войны". "Генералы Тибета слишком слабы, чтобы сражаться с |
| + | внешним врагом, зато они умеют притеснять своих безоружных крестьян". "Все ученые ламы |
| + | покидают Тибет, и теперь истинное учение надо искать за границей Тибета". "Теперь в |
| + | Тибете мало кто знает о Шамбале, все учение забыто". "Тяжелое время пришло для Тибета. |
| + | Девашунг (правительство) такой же ничтожный, как мизинец на руке". "Теперь придет год |
| + | дракона. Прошлый год был годом тигра, а за ним будет год овцы – не будет ли легче |
| + | тогда?" "По пророчеству – таши-лама ранее трех лет не вернется в Тибет". |
| + | |
| + | "Много тысяч лам перешло индийскую границу, спасаясь от теперешнего ужасного правления |
| + | Тибета". "Далай-лама удалился от дел и затворился". |
| + | |
| + | Много чего толкуют. Нас нагоняет наш лама из Харчина. Думал пробыть в Лхасе десять лет, |
| + | а пробыл всего три месяца. Обобранный, спасается из Тибета. С ним вместе бегут еще три |
| + | ученых ламы из Ташилунпо. |
| + | |
| + | Новости из Сиккима. Монастырь в Гуме расширяется. Прибавились новые постройки. Стены |
| + | покрыты живописью. Также улучшаются монастыри в Калимпонге и Курсеонге. Везде помогает |
| + | Геше Ринпоче из Чумби. Везде, где он прошел, вырастают изображения Майтрейи. Настоятель |
| + | Гума по-прежнему хлопочет. По-прежнему там работает наш художник геше ларива. Все |
| + | хорошо, дружественно. |
| + | |
| + | Во всяком случае, даже сами тибетцы, то есть более разумные и удалившиеся за границу, |
| + | понимают, что так продолжаться не может. Страна с миллионами населения не может |
| + | отказаться от всех признаков цивилизации. Но продолжать отрицание всего иностранного и |
| + | тайком покупать хотя бы третьесортные продукты иноземного производства и самим |
| + | стремиться проникать через все границы уже недопустимо. Это шутовство невежества уже |
| + | замечено и делается невозможным. Границы могут быть закрыты. Также нельзя иметь за |
| + | границей тибетских доньеров-консулов с широковещательными полномочиями и не признавать |
| + | документов, выдаваемых этими государственными чинами. Нельзя называть себя "Океан |
| + | Знания", будучи невежественным. Нельзя называть себя "Победным во всех направлениях", |
| + | когда тибетское войско вообще непригодно для современного боя. Вообще нельзя лгать, по |
| + | привычке к безнаказанности. |
| + | |
| + | Как жаль, что лик Тибета затемнился мрачною действительностью. Но друзья остаются |
| + | друзьями. |
| + | |
| + | Спросили меня: "Как будете теперь говорить о Тибете?" Как всегда, буду возносить свет, и |
| + | поражать тьму. Только правдою исправляются несовершенства. Если таши-лама возбудил к |
| + | себе общее уважение, это нужно сказать. Если лхасское правительство создало вокруг себя |
| + | отвращение, и это должно быть сказано. Спросили: "Но ведь тибетцы не любят правду?" Не |
| + | все, и мы будем с теми, которые желают совершенствоваться и исполнять учение |
| + | Благословенного. Кроме того, духовный водитель Тибета вовсе не далай-лама, а таши-лама, |
| + | о котором известно все хорошее. "Обычаи Панчен Ринпоче (таши-ламы) совсем другие", – так |
| + | говорят тибетцы. Теперь же совсем недавно Лхаса схватывала родственников таши-ламы и |
| + | заковывала их в цепи. Дзонг-пен в Паридзонге обрезал женщинам уши, нескольким мужчинам – |
| + | руки и ноги. Четверо умерло под мучениями. Все это известно от самих же тибетцев. Они |
| + | ждут исполнения пророчества о возвращении таши-ламы, когда он будет единым главою Тибета |
| + | и Драгоценное Учение при нем процветет снова. |
| + | |
| + | Но Гималаи и Сикким закрывают Тибет. Нигде нет такого сверкания, такой духовной |
| + | насыщенности, как среди этих драгоценных снегов. Нигде нет такого определительного |
| + | слова, как в Сиккиме. Здесь ко всему прибавляется понятие геройства. Мужчины – герои, |
| + | женщины – герои, скалы – герои, деревья – герои, водопады – герои, орлы – герои... Сюда |
| + | шли великие отшельники, ибо где же в два перехода можно подняться от тропической |
| + | растительности до вечного снега. Все стадии напряжения сознания здесь. Приветлив Сикким. |
| + | Приветлив махараджа Сиккима. Приветлив резидент. Приветлив Ладен Ла. И опять священная |
| + | долина Ташидинга, как средоточие накоплений тайны и сокровищ. Это значительное место для |
| + | всего Сиккима и Бутана. И старик настоятель Ташидинга еще жив, но постарел и уже не |
| + | сходит со своей священной горы. И опять близость великой Индии. |
| + | |
| + | Опять индус поет: "Как могу я говорить о самом Создателе, если знаю невыразимую красоту |
| + | Гималаев". |
| + | |
| + | Геше Ринпоче, настоятель донкара в Чумби, знает, что на север от Канченджанги лежит |
| + | пещера. Вход в нее очень узок, но затем она расширяется и приводит в целый город. |
| + | Настоятель многое знает и просит молчать до времени. Должное следствие получается лишь |
| + | во времени, когда соблюден точный срок. Сознание Геше глубоко. Он видит далекие события. |
| + | Выходя как бы из полудремоты сосредоточения, он говорит о самых неожиданных действиях, о |
| + | дальних отсутствующих людях. "Как ей трудно, как она мучается", – вдруг замечает он и |
| + | начинает молиться за лицо (Е.И.), находящееся за тысячу миль, которое болело в это |
| + | время. По старому обычаю высоких лам, настоятель спать не ложится, |
| + | но проводит ночные часы сидя. Сейчас он является главою Сиккима, ибо, по завету, |
| + | истинное Учение уйдет из Тибета. Настоятель знает о Шамбале во всем ее значении. Он |
| + | заботится о восстановлении Учения и готов встретить новую эру. |
| + | |
| + | Донкар в Чумби принадлежит к Ташилунпо. Около Шигацзе имели пребывание Великие. И все, |
| + | что исходит оттуда, имеет на себе добрые знаки. |
| + | |
| + | Сказано, как будет проявляться новая эра: "Раньше вспыхнет неслыханная война всех |
| + | народов. Затем встанет брат на брата. Моря крови прольются. И люди перестанут понимать |
| + | друг друга. Люди забудут, что значит слово Учитель. Но именно тогда появятся Учителя и |
| + | во всех концах земли зазвучит истинное учение. Люди начнут собираться к слову истины, но |
| + | те, кто полны темноты и незнания, будут препятствовать. Как алмаз, горит свет на башне |
| + | Владыки Шабалы. Один камень на кольце Его стоит больше всех сокровищ мира. Даже те, кто |
| + | случайно помогли учению Шамбалы, получат теперь же стократное воздаяние. Уже |
| + | перевоплотились многие воители учения истины. Пройдут всего немногие годы, когда будут |
| + | слышны мощные шаги Владыки Обновителя жизни. Можно уже замечать небывалые явления и |
| + | можно встретить необыкновенных людей. Уже открываются врата знания, и спелые плоды |
| + | упадают с дерева". |
| + | |
| + | Вот еще изображение Шамбалы, мандала Шамбалы, в которой знающие узнают намеки |
| + | действительности. Наверху идам, как знак стихийной мощи, и тот таши-лама, который |
| + | написал очень закрытую книгу "Путь в Шамбалу". В середине изображения снежные горы |
| + | образуют круг. Узнаются три белых границы. В центре – как бы долина со многими |
| + | постройками. Можно различить точно два разреза, как бы планы башен. На башне Сам Он, |
| + | свет которого сияет в сужденное время. Внизу мощное воинство ведет победную битву. |
| + | Победа духа на великом поле жизни. |
| + | |
| + | Конечно, мы знаем, как во всей Азии ожидается наступление новой эры. Каждый толкует |
| + | по-своему, кто ближе, кто дальше; кто прекрасно, кто извращенно; но все об одном и том |
| + | же сужденном сроке. Особенно захватывающе видеть такое сознание на местах, когда не |
| + | засохшая краска печатной буквы, но сам звук, само слово человеческое непосредственно |
| + | выражает волнующую мировую мысль. Ценно слышать ее и повторять. Родина Гессер-хана – |
| + | Ладак знает твердо, что время обновления мира уже наступило. Хотан помнит о знаках |
| + | времени Майтрейи над древнею ступою. Калмыки в Карашаре ждут скорое появление чаши |
| + | Будды. На Алтае ойроты отворачиваются от шаманизма и складывают новые моления ожидаемому |
| + | Белому Бурхану. Вестник Бурхана, благой Ойрот, уже едет по миру. Монголы помнят о |
| + | появлениях Владыки Мира и готовят дуканг Шамбалы. На Чантанге славословят Гессер-хана и |
| + | толкуют о заповедных границах Шамбалы. На Брамарутре знают об Ашрамах Махатм и помнят |
| + | чудесных Азаров. Евреи ждут у моста Мессию. Мусульмане ожидают Мунтазара. В Исфагане |
| + | белый конь уже оседлан. Христиане Св. Фомы чают пришествие и носят на себе тайные знаки. |
| + | Индусы знают Калки Аватара. И китайцы на Новый год зажигают огни перед изображением |
| + | Гессер-хана – Владыки Мира. Ригден-Джапо, Владыка, несется над пустынями, держит свой |
| + | сужденный путь на Восток. Кто-то незрячий скажет: "Так ли все это? Нет ли здесь |
| + | преувеличения? Не приняты ли отрывки пережитков за верования будущего?" |
| + | |
| + | Значит, вопрошающий никогда не был на Востоке. Если вы были в этих местах, если вы |
| + | прошли многие тысячи миль, если вы сами говорили со многими народами, то вы знаете всю |
| + | жизненность этих устремлений. Вы поймете, отчего об этих священных понятиях говорят в |
| + | тиши вечера, наедине, тихим задумчивым говором; отчего замолчат при каждом новом |
| + | пришедшем. Если же скажете, что при госте можно продолжить беседу, то ваши слова |
| + | встретят с поклоном. И получаете молчаливый, полный значения поклон не вы, но Сам |
| + | Великий Майтрейя. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 1 |
| + | |
| + | Срединная Азия с ее могучими горными хребтами и бескрайними пустынями и степями, страна |
| + | резких климатических контрастов и колыбель выносливых кочевых племен, которые некогда |
| + | колебали границы Китая и стран Ближнего Востока, всегда манила исследователей. Целая |
| + | плеяда блестящих ученых, открывших для науки недоступные земли Азиатского континента, в |
| + | течение нескольких десятилетий поддерживала тот дух первооткрывательства, которому столь |
| + | многим обязана наша цивилизация, и их пример вдохновляет других отваживаться на |
| + | покорение далеких и неизведанных земель. |
| + | |
| + | Во Внутренней Азии перед взором исследователя предстает одна из самых грандиозных горных |
| + | систем мира. |
| + | |
| + | Огромную, не имеющую внешнего стока область Внутренней Азии ограничивают с юга могучие |
| + | Трансгималаи и унылые высокогорья Каракорума. К северу простираются Алтай и горные цепи |
| + | южной окраины Сибирской низменности. К востоку и западу от этого огромного бессточного |
| + | бассейна лежат бесконечные пустынные просторы великой монгольской Гоби и степей Средней |
| + | Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Центральноазиатская экспедиция, возглавлявшаяся профессором Николаем Рерихом, изучала |
| + | эти земли почти пять лет подряд. Главной целью экспедиции было создание живописной |
| + | панорамы земель и народов Внутренней Азии. Пятьсот полотен Н.К.Рериха, в настоящее время |
| + | выставленные в Музее Рериха в Нью-Йорке, являются одним из самых больших ее достижений. |
| + | Вторая задача экспедиции состояла в проведении археологической разведки, с тем чтобы |
| + | подготовить основу для дальнейших серьезных исследований этих малоизученных районов |
| + | Внутренней Азии. И наконец, большое значение мы придавали сбору этнографического и |
| + | лингвистического материала, характеризующего древние культуры региона. |
| + | |
| + | За годы путешествия по Тянь Шаню, степным областям Джунгарии, Алтаю, горам Юго-Западной |
| + | Монголии и высокогорному Тибету экспедиция открыла многочисленные могильники кочевников, |
| + | относящиеся к периоду между I и VIII веками, в надежде, что в недалеком будущем здесь |
| + | будут проведены планомерные археологические раскопки. Во время пребывания экспедиции в |
| + | Монголии и Тибете было собрано также большое количество тибетских и монгольских книг. |
| + | |
| + | Экспедиция выехала из Нью-Йорка в мае 1923 года и в декабре того же года прибыла в |
| + | Дарджилинг. Здесь мы провели весь 1924 год, готовясь к странствиям по Внутренней Азии. |
| + | Прежде чем выступить в путь, следовало хорошо изучить тибетский язык. Свое повествование |
| + | о путешествии мы начинаем со дня выхода экспедиции из Дарджилинга. |
| + | |
| + | В течение пяти лет напряженной полевой работы автор часто пользовался помощью и советами |
| + | своих друзей, которым он выражает глубокую признательность. Благодарности заслуживают |
| + | также все участники Центральноазиатской экспедиции Рериха, как европейцы, так и азиаты, |
| + | стоически выполнявшие свой долг в самых тяжелых условиях. |
| + | |
| + | Я посвящаю эту книгу своим родителям, которые подвигнули меня на стезю науки и с детства |
| + | вдохнули в мою душу жажду новых открытий и исканий. |
| + | |
| + | Июнь 1931 года Ю.Н.Рерих |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 10 |
| + | |
| + | 13 апреля 1927 г. вся экспедиция поднялась еще до рассвета. Мы собирались |
| + | отправиться в путь пораньше, чтобы пройти максимально возможное расстояние. Первый этап |
| + | маршрута пролегал по долине реки Толы и, по словам проводников, был сравнительно легок |
| + | для груженных автомобилей. Три грузовика экспедиции были загружены днем ранее, и |
| + | остались только два «доджа», предназначенные для людей и легкого багажа, который нужно |
| + | было привязывать к бортам на время движения. К одиннадцати часам все было готово, и |
| + | большие ворота штаб-квартиры экспедиции распахнулись. Друзья – и европейцы, и монголы – |
| + | собрались проводить и пожелать удачи членам экспедиции. Монголы болтали с |
| + | родственниками, ламы бормотали молитвы и развешивали церемониальные шарфы, или хатыки, |
| + | на автомобилях. Наших тибетцев окружила толпа их соотечественников, прибывших повидать |
| + | нас. Тибетский персонал экспедиции очень гордился винтовками и настаивал на поездке с |
| + | приткнутыми к стволу штыками, украшенными хатыками. Члены экспедиции выглядели очень |
| + | воинственно в меховой одежде цвета хаки, перетянутой ремнями. Все это являло собой |
| + | весьма красочное зрелище, в котором перемешались европейские и азиатские элементы. |
| + | |
| + | Неожиданный и неприятный сюрприз преподнес водитель грузовика. Он забыл возобновить |
| + | монгольский паспорт и оформить разрешение на пересечение границы для автомобиля. За две |
| + | недели до отъезда мы предупредили водителей: иметь все необходимые документы готовыми до |
| + | 13 апреля. Только два дня назад я спрашивал их об этом, и все подтвердили наличие |
| + | паспортов для себя и разрешений на пересечение границы для автомобилей. В целом ситуация |
| + | складывалась очень неприятно, и нам пришлось отложить отъезд до вечера и отправиться за |
| + | разрешением в транспортный департамент. Без него таможенные власти не позволили бы |
| + | автомобилям экспедиции выехать из города. Не было никакой надежды на оформление |
| + | документов в такое короткое время. Обычная процедура оформления занимала три-четыре дня. |
| + | Но благодаря неутомимой помощи наших монгольских друзей и любезности монгольского |
| + | министра финансов, документы были все-таки оформлены и получены. Около пяти часов вечера |
| + | колонна экспедиционных автомобилей начала свой длинный путь через Западную Гоби. |
| + | Некоторое время нас сопровождали друзья и сотрудники: г-н и г-жа Лихтман из Нью-Йорка, |
| + | доктор Джамсарано, секретарь Монгольского научного комитета, и другие друзья из Урги. |
| + | |
| + | За мостом через реку Толу мы все вышли из автомобилей и послали последние прощания и |
| + | пожелания цивилизованному миру и нашим американским друзьям, которые должны были |
| + | возвратиться самолетом из Урги в Верхнеудинск. |
| + | |
| + | «Привет всем Нью-Йоркским друзьям! Ждите новостей!» – были последние слова профессора |
| + | Рериха, когда колонна экспедиции начала путь в западном направлении по долине реки Толы. |
| + | Колонна тяжело загруженных грузовиков с людьми, восседавшими поверх грузов, напоминала |
| + | огромное чудовище. |
| + | |
| + | Первые пять миль дорога была хорошей, несмотря на мокрый снег, который сделал ее грязной |
| + | и скользкой. На седьмой миле мы въехали в глубокий снег. Один из наших «доджей» глубоко |
| + | завяз. Мы все пытались вытащить его, но без особого успеха. Задние колеса увязли слишком |
| + | глубоко. Тем временем три грузовика, задержавшиеся ненадолго у моста через Толу и |
| + | поехавшие окружной дорогой, оказались теперь немного впереди нас. Мы сделали несколько |
| + | выстрелов, чтобы привлечь их внимание. Один из грузовиков остановился, и нам на помощь |
| + | прибыли люди с лопатами и веревками. Объединенными усилиями «додж» был вытянут, и мы |
| + | смогли продолжить поездку. Стемнело, мы едва различали дорогу перед собой. Около десяти |
| + | часов вечера решили разбить лагерь на берегу реки под несколькими ивами. Это были |
| + | последние деревья, которые мы видели во Внешней Монголии. Переход этого дня был короток, |
| + | всего около двадцати миль, но нам всем было приятно оказаться снова на открытой |
| + | местности и почувствовать перед собой пустыню. |
| + | |
| + | После большой сутолоки в темноте все палатки были расставлены, и мы обрели заслуженный |
| + | отдых после утомительного дня. Примерно в шести милях на дальнем берегу реки виднелись |
| + | слабые огни Сангинской ветеринарной станции. К юго-востоку от нашего лагеря возвышался |
| + | западный отрог горного массива Богдо-ула, а к юго-западу расстилалась слегка холмистая |
| + | местность, где находилась долина Толы. Ночь была удивительно ясной, но очень холодной, |
| + | термометр показывал около -25°С. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 11 |
| + | |
| + | На следующий день мы встали рано и к восьми часам верблюды были напоены и загружены. |
| + | Обычно нам требовалось около двух часов, чтобы привести наш большой караван в походный |
| + | порядок. |
| + | |
| + | После пересечения каменистой равнины в северном направлении мы вступили на невысокие |
| + | песчаные холмы, которые тянулись более чем на пять миль. Эти холмы окружали каменистую |
| + | равнину с юга и юго-востока. |
| + | |
| + | На юге этой полосы песчаниковых холмов и песчаных дюн лежала широкая песчаная равнина, |
| + | покрытая лессом и травой дересун (Lasiagrostis splendens). Мы нашли здесь несколько |
| + | кочевых стоянок монголов, принадлежащих к тому же хошуну, что и монастырь Юм-бейсе. Как |
| + | и во всех пограничных районах Центральной Азии, население палаток было чрезвычайно |
| + | разнообразно. Кроме нас, прибывших сюда через Торгут из Монгольского Алтая, здесь были |
| + | калка-монголы по крайней мере из полудюжины хошунов, или племенных объединений, и |
| + | несколько тибетцев из Амдо, тех, которые обосновались в этом районе. Некоторые из них |
| + | утверждали, что являются бывшими ламами великого монастыря Кумбум в районе Синин |
| + | провинции Кансу. |
| + | |
| + | После пересечения покрытой травой равнины мы прибыли к реке, текущей с северо-запада на |
| + | юго-восток. Это был крошечный поток, на берегах которого были разбиты несколько палаток |
| + | монголов. Здесь нам предлагали купить прекрасного белого верблюда. К сожалению, животное |
| + | было слишком молодо для длительного перехода, но монголы настаивали на этой покупке. |
| + | Белые верблюды считаются самым лучшим подарком, который можно предложить одному из |
| + | великих лам Тибета. Мы отказались, опасаясь, что животное слишком молодо и не выдержит |
| + | длительной поездки до Тибета. Мы должны были запастись водой из реки, так как нам |
| + | сообщили, что на маршруте ее нет. |
| + | |
| + | После переправы реки вброд мы вступили в пересеченную холмистую область невысокого |
| + | рельефа. Здесь и там можно было видеть выходившие на поверхность гранит, порфир и другие |
| + | камни. После длинного перехода в двадцать пять миль мы разбили лагерь в круглой низине |
| + | среди холмов, хорошо защищенной от частых ветров, выравнивающих ландшафт. До сих пор |
| + | погода была умеренна и даже встречались теплые дни. Местоположение нашего лагеря носило |
| + | название Кхара Боро, и, как говорили, оно получало значительное количество осадков в |
| + | течение дождливых летних месяцев. Конечно, мы не имели никакой возможности проверить это |
| + | утверждение наших проводников, но многочисленные высохшие миниатюрные озерца, найденные |
| + | между холмами, указали нам, насколько обильны осадки здесь в дождливое время года. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 12 |
| + | |
| + | Обширнейшая Внутренняя Азия иногда возвышает странных личностей, которые |
| + | таинственно влияют на своих соотечественников. Мы будем связывать в данной главе историю |
| + | Джа ламы с новым воплощением Амурсана, великого западномонгольского лидера |
| + | восемнадцатого столетия. Тен-пей Джал-дзен, или просто Джа лама, был одной из |
| + | характерных и передовых фигур монгольской национальной революции 1911-1912 гг. Его |
| + | жизнь покрыта тайной, и никто не знает точно, откуда он прибыл и каковы были его |
| + | устремления. Это чрезвычайно трудно – собрать вместе части всей существующей информации |
| + | о его жизни, настолько разнообразной была его деятельность и обширны его путешествия. |
| + | Ареной этой деятельности была вся Азия, от Астрахани до Пекина и от Урги до отдаленной |
| + | Индии. Мне удалось собрать информацию о нем и его жизни у монгольских и тибетских лам и |
| + | мирян, вовлеченных судьбой в контакт со страшным воином-священником. Эта необыкновенная |
| + | личность около тридцати пяти лет гипнотизировала всю великую Монголию. Даже в настоящее |
| + | время, спустя шесть лет после его смерти, монголы чувствуют нечестивый ужас и |
| + | поклоняются ему как воинствующему воплощению одного из своих национальных лидеров. Я |
| + | часто спрашивал монголов в Кхалка Монголии и в Цайдаме, был ли человек бурханом, т.е. |
| + | «божественным существом», или могущественный главарь-разбойник являлся воплощением |
| + | мощного демона. Простодушные кочевники все еще неспособны решить этот вопрос и приводят |
| + | различные объяснения. |
| + | |
| + | Хотя деятельность Джа ламы была необыкновенной, но все же она напоминала больше жизнь |
| + | великого предводителя разбойников. Нужно сказать, что человек имел некоторое воображение |
| + | и пытался работать по национальным направлениям. |
| + | |
| + | Эта легендарная личность была очень разносторонним человеком. Он строил замки в центре |
| + | южномонгольской Гоби, изучал трудные для понимания трактаты по буддистской метафизике, |
| + | лично обучил своих людей науке войны и мечтал завоевать и возродить монгольские племена. |
| + | |
| + | Ему приписывают и обладание удивительной силой, которая, однако, не помогла ему, когда |
| + | его застрелил монгольский офицер. Живое описание о нем дал Ф.Оссендовский в своей книге |
| + | «Люди, животные и Боги», где описывает его как ламу-мстителя под именем Туше-Гун ламы. |
| + | |
| + | Его настоящее имя было Пал-Ден (дПал-лден). Он родился в Астраханской провинции на юге |
| + | России и принадлежал к племени Бага-улуса Дорбот. В раннем детстве он был привезен в |
| + | Монголию и вошел как новичок в большой ламаистский монастырь Долон-нор на китайской |
| + | границе. Отсюда он путешествовал в далекий Тибет и провел много лет в Гомангском |
| + | (мГо-манг) колледже, или дацане, большого лхасского монастыря Дрепунг (Брас-дпунг), где |
| + | постоянно находится наибольшее количество монгольских лам. |
| + | |
| + | Вероятно, что в течение своего пребывания в Тибете он посетил Индию и святые места |
| + | буддизма. Его знание тибетских монастырей и жизни было обширно, и он многое мог |
| + | рассказать о своих поединках с голокскими разбойниками. |
| + | |
| + | В молодости он проявил честолюбивый, импульсивный и жестокий характер. Вообще упоминают, |
| + | что он убил своего товарища по комнате в монастыре из-за спора и был должен бежать из |
| + | Лхасы, чтобы избежать строгого монастырского закона. Этот факт общеизвестен в Тибете и |
| + | Монголии. Кажется, что убийство было критическим моментом его жизни, с которого у него |
| + | тогда начинается жизнь странствующего воина-монаха, полная замечательных приключений, |
| + | мессианских пророчеств и жестоких поступков. |
| + | |
| + | Люди, которые знали его хорошо, подтверждают, что его знание буддистской метафизики и |
| + | тайных тантрических учений было необычайно обширно, и, видимо, он имел большой авторитет |
| + | среди высоких лам Монголии. Согласно его собственным словам, он служил одним из Та лам, |
| + | или глав департамента, в Чанг-скья Хутукхту в пекинском ямене. Ученому духовного |
| + | учреждения вверялось устанавливать календари и решать другие астрономические и |
| + | метафизические вопросы. |
| + | |
| + | Большое количество историй рассказывают о многочисленных путешествиях Джа ламы по Индии, |
| + | Китаю, Тибету и Монголии. Он был хорошо сведущ в тибетском, монгольском и китайском |
| + | языках и знал немного санскрит и русский. Ламы сообщили мне, что он обучался на |
| + | факультете юриспруденции в Санкт-Петербургском университете, но я сомневаюсь в |
| + | правильности этого сообщения. В любом случае, его знание казалось необычно обширным, и |
| + | он обладал надежной информацией о тех странах, в которых побывал. Монголы также |
| + | утверждают, что он имел огромную силу воли и мог легко гипнотизировать людей. |
| + | |
| + | Первое общественное появление Джа ламы во Внешней Монголии относится к 1890 г. |
| + | Профессор Позднеев в своей ценной книге «Монголия и монголы» дал краткое сообщение о |
| + | ранней деятельности ламы. Во время его посещения важного ламаистского монастыря в |
| + | Амур-байшаланту он услышал от местного чиновника историю о великом ламе, который |
| + | появился в Монголии осенью 1890 г. и путешествовал от Дзин-дзилика к пограничной |
| + | станции Улясутай и оттуда к Урге Лама носил меховую шапку, увенчанную золотой ваджрой, и |
| + | обильно раздавал ценности и золотые монеты бедным людям. Повсюду он сообщал, что он был |
| + | Тен-пей Джал-дзен, сыном Темурсана, который в свою очередь был сыном известного |
| + | Амурсана. В других местах он утверждал, что он был не только потомком Амурсана, но также |
| + | его воплощением, и что вновь появился, чтобы освободить Монголию от китайского ига. |
| + | Кочевники легко верили его словам, и толпы людей собирались на уртонах или на |
| + | перевалочных пунктах, чтобы приветствовать воплощенного ламу. Они низко кланялись ему и |
| + | платили ему глубоким благоговением. |
| + | |
| + | Два влиятельных монгольских воплощенных ламы, Джахантса Хутукхту и Илгусан Хутукхту, |
| + | присоединились к его делу и позже стали преследоваться китайскими властями. Чтобы |
| + | освободить этих высоких сановников церкви от подозрений, два простых ламы приняли на |
| + | себя вину и были приговорены китайцами к смерти. Накануне своей казни ламы отравились. |
| + | |
| + | Китайские власти, которые обеспокоились распространением пропаганды Джа ламы, начали |
| + | переговоры с императорским консулом России в Урге с просьбой арестовать ламу. Китайский |
| + | запрос удовлетворили, и предприимчивый монах по прибытии в Ургу был арестован и выслан в |
| + | Кяхту. В течение следующего года никто ничего не слышал о Джа ламе. Видимо, его |
| + | принудительное пребывание в России было очень коротким, и он ухитрился сбежать в Тибет |
| + | или Южную Монголию. В конце 1891 г. он вновь появлялся во Внешней Монголии, |
| + | путешествующим с двумя великолепными белыми верблюдами, из-за чего среди монголов его |
| + | стали называть Хоир-темете лама, или «Лама с двумя верблюдами». Он был снова арестован |
| + | китайскими властями и перевезен в Улясутай для дальнейшего расследования. На вопросы |
| + | отвечать он отказался, но предъявил паспорт на имя астраханского калмыка Тен-Пей |
| + | Джал-дзена. Китайцы удовлетворились этим и разрешили идти, даже не осмотрев багаж. От |
| + | Улясутая Джа лама поехал в Кобдо и провел там несколько месяцев. Из Кобдо он уехал |
| + | обратно в Улясутай и затем в Ургу, где был арестован второй раз и снова выслан в Кяхту. |
| + | |
| + | После этого он исчезает на десять лет. Ничего не слышно о нем в течение этого периода, |
| + | но кажется, он часто ездил в Цайдам и Северо-Восточный Тибет. Курлукские монголы Цайдама |
| + | помнят, что часто видели его путешествующим западным цайдамским путем через Махай с |
| + | двумя вьючными пони и только одним спутником. Видимо, он не разрывал связи с Тибетом и |
| + | наносил последовательные визиты в его столицу. |
| + | |
| + | Он вновь появлялся в 1900 г. как проводник экспедиции генерала Козлова П.К. в |
| + | провинцию Кхам в Тибете. В то время он был известен под именем Ше-Рап (Шез-Раб) ламы. |
| + | Экспедиция была остановлена на Но-мо чу тибетскими властями, несмотря на то, что генерал |
| + | Козлов нес подарки от Императора России к Далай ламе. Генерал Козлов уполномочивает |
| + | Ше-Рап ламу, с псевдонимом Джа лама, перейти к переговорам с тибетскими властями. |
| + | Возможно, Джа лама никогда и не примыкал к экспедиции и каким-то образом ушел своим |
| + | путем в Карашар в Китайском Туркестане, где остановился у местного князя торгутов. Из |
| + | Карашара он прошел в Кобдо и Ургу, откуда был снова отправлен на поиски экспедиции |
| + | Козлова. |
| + | |
| + | После этого он снова исчезает на десять лет. Мы находимся в совершенном неведении о его |
| + | деятельности в течение этого периода. В 1910 г. он внезапно вновь появился в |
| + | Карашаре. Согласно утверждению господина Кряжева, русского купца, торгующего в Карашаре, |
| + | Джа лама значительно изменил свою внешность. Прежде он носил бороду, теперь он был чисто |
| + | выбрит. Под желтым одеянием ламы он носил какое-то подобие европейской военной униформы. |
| + | После долгого пребывания в Карашаре он уехал в Кобдо и весной 1912 г. внезапно |
| + | появился в Ханделсике в лагере дорботского князя Тимен-Гуна. |
| + | |
| + | Как было упомянуто, в 1890 г Джа лама пустил слух о том, что является воплощением |
| + | великого Амурсана (который умер в 1755 г.). Древние пророчества упоминали, что во |
| + | время новой освободительной войны между монголами и китайцами этот вождь появится под |
| + | именем Тен-пей Джал-дзена, который будет истинным воплощением Амурсана и будет |
| + | восстанавливать старое королевство Ойрат. Все, кто знает магическое влияние пророков и |
| + | предсказаний среди буддистов Внутренней Азии, легко поймут успех Джа ламы. Его повторное |
| + | появление в районе Кобдо вызвало большую суматоху среди кочевников. Толпы людей |
| + | собирались вокруг нового лидера, который продолжал пламенно проповедовать священную |
| + | войну против китайского угнетения. |
| + | |
| + | За короткое время Джа лама собрал вокруг себя сильную группу вооруженных людей и |
| + | подготовил ее к активному участию в борьбе за независимую Монголию. Крепости Урга и |
| + | Улясутай пали и были заняты монгольскими отрядами. Губернатору Кобдо Манчу был послан |
| + | приказ передать ключи от ворот крепости. Чиновник отказался исполнить приказ Урги и |
| + | закрыл ворота форта. В его распоряжении было около тысячи солдат и китайских ополченцев, |
| + | готовых бороться против отрядов повстанцев. После получения ответа от губернатора Кобдо, |
| + | Джа лама объявил войну китайскому гарнизону. |
| + | |
| + | Поднялось огромное полчище монголов, урьянгкхайцев, дорботов и торгутов – всего около |
| + | пяти тысяч человек, быстро собранных Джа ламой, который повел их против крепости Кобдо. |
| + | Степи Монголии снова были свидетелями отрядов кавалерии, идущих на запад. Здесь были |
| + | кхалка-монголы в их специфических высоких шапках, желтых и фиолетовых халатах, |
| + | вооруженные карабинами Маузера и винтовками Бердана, чакхар-монголы в маленьких круглых |
| + | шапках, желтых халатах и с патронташами, обильно украшенными серебром, сойоты из |
| + | Урьянгхая в остроконечных меховых шапках и меховых халатах, торгуты из Булугуна в синих |
| + | косынках на головах, зеленых кафтанах и кожаных туфлях. Отрядами официально командовал |
| + | князь Сурун-Гун, но в действительности все совершалось, вдохновлялось и направлялось Джа |
| + | ламой. Это происходило в мае 1912 года. 6 августа крепость Кобдо пала, город был сожжен, |
| + | а китайские жители уничтожены. Русскому консулу и его охране удалось спасти нескольких |
| + | китайцев от ярости завоевателей и выслать их в Россию, Бийск на Алтай для дальнейшей |
| + | переправки в Китай. После разрушения Кобдо и резни в китайской колонии десять китайских |
| + | и мусульманских торговцев были убиты в тайном ритуале по распоряжению Джа ламы. Десять |
| + | человеческих тел были рассечены, сердца вырезаны самим Джа ламой, который освятил |
| + | знамена монгольской войны человеческой кровью, а затем окропил ею отряды. |
| + | |
| + | Китайские власти соседней провинции Синьцзян были очень встревожены успехом |
| + | воинственного священника и поспешно выехали из Ку-ченга и Шара-сума. Они не достигли |
| + | Кобдо, но остановились приблизительно в двухстах милях юго-западнее, в месте, называемом |
| + | Цаган Тонке, и остались там на зиму. Монгольские отряды под командованием Джа ламы и его |
| + | союзников остались в укрепленном лагере на монгольской стороне перевала Улан-дабан, но |
| + | рассеялись в 1913 г. после отхода китайских отрядов. Немецкий путешественник |
| + | X.Констен в своей недавно изданной книге о Монголии «Пастбища Монголии», т. 2, дает |
| + | яркое описание монгольского укрепленного лагеря в Улан-дабане. Он не встречал самого Джа |
| + | ламу, но был очень поражен твердой дисциплиной в лагере, общей чистотой и порядком на |
| + | месте, весьма необычными среди монголов. Ему сказали, что это было достигнуто под |
| + | руководством и при полном контроле Джа ламы, который принимал решительные меры, чтобы |
| + | сохранить чистоту и дисциплину в отрядах. |
| + | |
| + | За большие заслуги, оказанные новому монгольскому государству, Джа лама получил титул |
| + | Туше-Гуна, затем был создан номун хан Хутукхту. Целый хошун, находящийся примерно в |
| + | шестидесяти милях от города Кобдо на одноименной реке, был отдан в его распоряжение, и |
| + | его союзники поставили ему большое количество лошадей, рогатого скота и даже людей. Он, |
| + | таким образом, стал военным губернатором Кобдо и одним из самых сильных князей всей |
| + | Монголии. |
| + | |
| + | В своем хошуне он ввел ряд новшеств, и в этом нашел выражение его многосторонний |
| + | характер. Он познакомил своих последователей с сельским хозяйством и даже заказал |
| + | некоторые сельскохозяйственные машины из России. Он предписывал своим людям строить |
| + | постоянные здания, собирать сено на зимние месяцы и носить русские сапоги. Он основал |
| + | несколько школ и организовал образцовый монастырь со строгими правилами. Он ограничил |
| + | количество лам и призывал многих из них в свои отряды. Он обучил свои отряды европейским |
| + | методам ведения войны. Он пробовал улучшить породу монгольских лошадей и рогатого скота, |
| + | заказывая их из России. |
| + | |
| + | Он был чрезвычайно жесток к своим врагам и редко доверял своим последователям. Они |
| + | рассказывали о нем, что он лично пытал заключенных, срезая полосы кожи со спин и клеймя |
| + | их раскаленным железом. Монастырь Уланком однажды восстал против его новшеств, в |
| + | результате чего несколько лам были запороты до смерти. Он пытал русского торговца, чтобы |
| + | получить от него открытое признание. Все монгольские князья в области Кобдо опасались |
| + | его и даже прислуживали ему как обычные слуги: седлали лошадей и держали его стремя. |
| + | |
| + | Джа лама продолжал управлять своим хошуном до 1914 г., пока не произошло некоторое |
| + | недоразумение с офицером, командовавшим русской консульской охраной в Кобдо, в |
| + | результате чего офицер подвергся внезапному аресту и высылке в Россию. |
| + | |
| + | В начале 1914 г. русскими властями были получены сообщения, подтверждающие истории |
| + | жестокостей, совершаемых Джа ламой. 6 февраля 1914 г. капитану Булатову был дан |
| + | приказ отправиться с половиной эскадрона сибирских казаков в район Кобдо в Западную |
| + | Монголию и остановить движение Джа ламы. После нескольких успешных схваток отряд казаков |
| + | захватил самого Джа ламу и проверил его безжалостные законы. Казаки привезли с собой две |
| + | целых человеческих кожи, которые были содраны по приказу Джа ламы. Одна из этих кож |
| + | принадлежала Кхайсану, киргизскому вождю с Монгольского Алтая. Джа лама и киргизские |
| + | соплеменники враждовали несколько лет из-за некоторых земель в более высоких долинах |
| + | Алтайских гор. Ожесточенный непрерывной племенной борьбой местный киргизский вождь был |
| + | захвачен и заключен в тюрьму Джа ламы. Семейство заключенного сразу предложило большой |
| + | выкуп, и Джа лама согласился выпустить его. Когда мать киргизского вождя прибыла в |
| + | лагерь Джа ламы, принеся все свое личное имущество – золото, серебро, драгоценные камни |
| + | и дорогостоящие меха, монгольский руководитель приветствовал ее весьма любезно и |
| + | попросил подождать. В то время, как он разговаривал с женщиной и рассматривал богатый |
| + | выкуп, его люди сдирали кожу с живого Кхайсана. Действие было начато со ступней, и |
| + | палачи имели указание продолжать свою работу медленно с тем, чтобы закончить сдирание |
| + | кожи, пока страдалец был еще жив. Но Кхайсан умер во время процедуры. Кожа его была |
| + | натянута на бревно и доставлена несчастной матери. Старая женщина взглянув, лишилась |
| + | разума, а широкое темное лицо бандита удовлетворенно улыбалось. |
| + | |
| + | Такова официальная история одного из известных поступков Джа ламы, о жестокости которого |
| + | до сих пор рассказывают в палатках кочевников Монгольского Алтая. |
| + | |
| + | Он сначала был заключен в тюрьму в Томске на год, затем сослан в Якутскую область. |
| + | Оттуда его перевели в Астрахань, где он и оставался до 1918 г. Революция в |
| + | 1917-1918 гг. освободила его, и он вновь появился в Монголии на Селенге. Его |
| + | приветствовали прежние последователи, а когда к нему в Улясутай приехал друг и помощник |
| + | Джаханца Хутукхту, он переехал на некоторое время в лагерь своего бывшего заместителя |
| + | Джал-Дзен-бейсе на Юго-Западе Монголии. |
| + | |
| + | Правительство Урги испытывало массу неприятностей из-за нового появления воинственного |
| + | монаха и выпустило предписание о его немедленном аресте. Джа лама был вынужден оставить |
| + | монгольскую территорию. Он выбрал для себя новый лагерь, изолированное место на северных |
| + | склонах Бага Мацу Шаня, на 250 миль южнее Юм-бейсе-сума в самом сердце Монгольской Гоби. |
| + | Многие из прежних последователей стекались к его новому лагерю, и вскоре вокруг |
| + | возвышалось уже около пяти сотен палаток. С этого времени власти начали серьезно |
| + | опасаться активности разбойника Джа ламы и его хорошо вооруженных отрядов. Национальный |
| + | лидер Монголии, лама-мститель, становится предводителем бандитов. Он организовывает |
| + | сильную группу хорошо вооруженных людей, независимо от их прошлого; и все виды беглецов |
| + | – китайские дезертиры, монгольские разбойники, тибетские контрабандисты, киргизские |
| + | конокрады и тургутские охотники собрались под его знамена. Имея в своем распоряжении |
| + | такую силу, Джа лама постоянно вызывал беспокойство на юго-западной монгольской границе. |
| + | Его отряды росли, постоянно перемещались, тревожили монгольские лагеря и следили за |
| + | правительственными чиновниками и их действиями. Никому не удавалось беспрепятственно |
| + | проследовать маршрутом каравана Юм-бейсе – Аньси. Отряды разбойников рыскали по соседней |
| + | стране днем и ночью, а в узких ущельях, где проходили многочисленные караваны, были |
| + | размещены сильно вооруженные посты. В течение нескольких лет торговый путь считался |
| + | закрытым из-за деятельности Джа ламы и его последователей. |
| + | |
| + | В 1919 г. китайские отряды Аньси под командованием генерала Сю заняли Внешнюю |
| + | Монголию. Китайские гарнизоны размещались в Урге, Улясутае и даже просачивались на |
| + | русскую территорию, оккупировали пограничные города Кяхту и Троицкосавск, убивая многих |
| + | мирных жителей. |
| + | |
| + | Монголы не могли допустить новое вторжение на свою территорию. Отряды монгольских |
| + | партизан начали борьбу, и Джа лама снова принял в ней активное участие. Весной |
| + | 1920 г. его отряды напали на китайцев в Юго-Западной Монголии и нанесли серьезный |
| + | урон. Упоминают, что Джа лама сотрудничал с бароном Унгерном фон Штернбергом, который в |
| + | январе 1921 г. разгромил китайские отряды и занял Ургу. |
| + | |
| + | После поражения отрядов барона Унгерна монгольскими национальными силами летом |
| + | 1921 г. и введения нового порядка в Монголии Джа лама стал центральной фигурой |
| + | среди сторонников старых порядков. Он установил дружественные отношения с китайскими |
| + | властями Синьцзяна, Коко-хото и с последним князем курлукских монголов в Северном |
| + | Цайдаме. |
| + | |
| + | Его влияние было все еще очень велико среди кочевников области Кобдо, и он в своих |
| + | военных планах замышлял кампанию против Урги, собираясь сокрушить оппозицию монгольского |
| + | правительства. Он все еще хранил надежду восстановить могущественное государство во |
| + | внутренней Азии, включая Монголию, Тибет и Китайский Туркестан. |
| + | |
| + | Чтобы усилить свое положение, он построил укрепленный замок с необыкновенной |
| + | архитектурой, смесь туркестанского и тибетского стилей, окруженный стенами и |
| + | наблюдательными башнями на соседних холмах. Место известно монголам под названием |
| + | Тен-пей Джал-дзен байшин, или «Дом Тен-Пей Джал-дзена». Пленники и заключенные сооружали |
| + | эту поразительную крепость в столь отдаленном месте. Оно расположено на северных склонах |
| + | горы Бага Мацу Шань. Окруженная холмами территория была идеальным местом укрытия для |
| + | банд разбойников. Скудная растительность по берегам рек и у подножия холмов |
| + | предоставляла достаточно корма стадам рогатого скота и лошадям, принадлежащим Джа ламе и |
| + | его последователям. |
| + | |
| + | Гарнизон крепости состоял приблизительно из пятисот человек, более или менее |
| + | дисциплинированных и обученных. Наибольшее количество людей было вооружено старыми |
| + | винтовками Бердана, немецкими карабинами Маузера и пистолетами, а некоторые – японскими |
| + | винтовками Арисака, добытыми у китайцев. После основания монгольского правительства, |
| + | руководимого Монгольской Народной партией, большое количество сторонников старого режима |
| + | и некоторые из местных князей соединились с отрядами Джа ламы, называя себя Монгольскими |
| + | Цаганами, или Белыми Монголами. |
| + | |
| + | Все боялись смелого ламу, который соединял в себе известность военного лидера с |
| + | авторитетом монаха. Он благословлял и давал религиозные наставления народу, и в то же |
| + | время его люди безжалостно уничтожали паломников. |
| + | |
| + | Животные и товары караванов обычно конфисковывались, а погонщики уничтожались. |
| + | Оставшиеся в живых становились невольниками Джа ламы и его последователей. Один |
| + | монгольский лама рассказал, как на пути из Монголии в Тибет в 1920 г. его группа |
| + | была внезапно атакована Джа ламой. Все миряне, шедшие с караваном, были убиты на месте, |
| + | все оружие и добро было захвачено. Только некоторым ламам, лишенным всего, позволили |
| + | продолжить путь пешком. Некоторые из них умерли в пути, не в состоянии вынести лишений и |
| + | достичь населенных мест Кансу. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетский торговый агент, отправившийся в Монголию торговать от лица лабранга Ташилунпо, |
| + | был схвачен на пути к Юм-бейсе и заключен в укрепленном лагере Джа ламы. Больше он |
| + | никогда не обрел свободу и умер в плену. Те, кто остался в живых, сообщили мне, что |
| + | большинство людей каравана были убиты, а оказавшим сопротивление были отрезаны уши, и |
| + | они должны были работать как невольники Джа ламы. |
| + | |
| + | Таким путем Джа лама собрал вокруг себя смешанную группу людей. Тибетские чиновники и |
| + | торговцы, монгольские паломники, ламы и миряне, политические враги Джа ламы, китайские |
| + | купцы из Аньси и Коко-хото, киргизские вожди с Монгольского Алтая – все должны были |
| + | работать, возводить здания, строить башни и стены в обжигающей зноем монгольской |
| + | пустыне. Некоторые из заключенных целые годы провели в плену у Джа ламы, и, чтобы |
| + | избежать варварского обращения, объединялись в небольшие отряды. Другим удавалось |
| + | совершить побег, но большинство умерло от тяжелых испытаний, так как не все могли |
| + | выдержать отношение людей Джа ламы. |
| + | |
| + | Один цайдамский монгол однажды рассказал мне историю его захвата и побега из лагеря Джа |
| + | ламы. Он путешествовал с тибетским торговым караваном через Гоби в нескольких сотнях |
| + | миль северо-восточнее Аньси. Все шло хорошо, и они надеялись пройти благополучно. |
| + | Внезапно из-за соседних холмов появилась группа всадников. В течение нескольких минут |
| + | все было кончено. Разбойники подлетали на своих быстрых лошадях, убивали погонщиков |
| + | верблюдов и угоняли животных. Глава каравана, богатый тибетский торговец, погиб одним из |
| + | первых при защите своего имущества. Некоторые из монгольских погонщиков оборонялись, но |
| + | были захвачены разбойниками. Несколько месяцев они работали на Джа ламу: собирали |
| + | топливо и изготавливали кирпичи для его больших строительных проектов. Многие из них, не |
| + | привыкшие к тяжелому труду, заболевали и умирали. Другие замышляли побег. Наш собеседник |
| + | нанес удар одному из охранников и сбежал с его винтовкой. Местность была ему хорошо |
| + | известна, и он без труда скрылся. Такие истории рассказывают о Джа ламе и тюремной жизни |
| + | в его лагере. |
| + | |
| + | В сентябре 1922 г. в Урге был раскрыт мощный политический заговор, и ряд |
| + | влиятельных лиц, включая нескольких прежних министров, были арестованы. Официальное |
| + | монгольское коммюнике заявляло, что все эти лица имели секретные переговоры с Джа ламой |
| + | с целью впустить китайские отряды. |
| + | |
| + | После очередного нанесения поражения отрядам барона Унгерна, монголы решили покончить с |
| + | Джа ламой и его бандами, чтобы установить мир на юго-западной границе. |
| + | Русско-монгольский отряд обыскал Гоби и даже прошел до самого Нань Шаня, к северу от |
| + | Коко-нора. В начале 1923 г. правительство Урги послало несколько эскадронов |
| + | кавалерии под командой Балден Дордже (дПал-лден рДо-рдже), знаменитого монгольского |
| + | военачальника, проследить за продвижением Джа ламы. Отряды ожидали встретиться с |
| + | сильным сопротивлением и продвигались осторожно, имея приказ не встревожить вражеские |
| + | посты. Балден Дордже решил взять крепость хитростью, а не штурмом. Остановившись, его |
| + | отряды расположились лагерем приблизительно в двух днях пути от крепости Джа ламы, |
| + | Балдан Дордже с одним из солдат поехали в лагерь. Они притворились паломниками и |
| + | попросили позволения подарить церемониальный шарф Джа ламе. По некоторым причинам им это |
| + | позволили и провели их в монгольскую палатку, разбитую во внутреннем дворе замка. Балдан |
| + | Дордже приблизился к ламе с церемониальным шарфом и застрелил его из пистолета, |
| + | спрятанного под хатыком. Джа лама был убит на месте. Его последователи не могли даже |
| + | оказать сопротивление, поскольку Джа лама, как и другие азиатские вожди, хранил все |
| + | оружие и боеприпасы в своей палатке и выдавал их только тогда, когда было необходимо. |
| + | Так как палатка с арсеналом была захвачена Балданом Дордже и его спутником, пораженные |
| + | паникой последователи не имели иного выбора, как только подчиниться или рассеяться. |
| + | |
| + | Отряды заняли крепость без единого выстрела и сожгли ее, руины замка безмолвно несут |
| + | следы огня. Некоторые из последователей Джа ламы были казнены, другие – признали власть |
| + | правительства Урги. Вся собственность Джа ламы, его оружие и боеприпасы были |
| + | реквизированы монгольскими отрядами. Около 2000 овец были распределены среди невольников |
| + | Джа ламы, которые жили в крайней бедности. |
| + | |
| + | Голова Джа ламы была отрублена и перевезена на копье в Улясутай, где ее показывали |
| + | народу на базарной площади. Из-за белых волос отрубленную голову стали называть Цаган |
| + | Тологой, или «Белая голова», и большая толпа людей собиралась ежедневно поглядеть на |
| + | нее. Впоследствии ее перевезли в Ургу в большой бутыли с формалином – страшные останки |
| + | внушающего страх предводителя. Некоторое время она переходила из рук в руки и, наконец, |
| + | исчезла – никто не знает как и куда. |
| + | |
| + | Было трудно распознать в подвергшемся атмосферным влияниям черном остове голову этого |
| + | сильного монгола. У него было широкое лицо с выступающими скулами и плоским носом. |
| + | Довольно темная кожа и подрезанные белые волосы – таков был облик Джа ламы во время его |
| + | смерти. В Монгольском научном комитете есть портрет Джа ламы, выполненный его придворным |
| + | живописцем. На портрете изображен человек средних лет, крепкого телосложения, одетый в |
| + | великолепный мундир. Джа лама любил шикарно одеваться, и часто его видели в европейской |
| + | униформе под монгольским мундиром, который он использовал как халат. Человек мертв, но |
| + | память о нем все еще живет среди кочевников Монголии. |
| + | |
| + | В нашем караване был торгут из Ецин-гола, который провел несколько лет в области Мацу |
| + | Шань. Он не мог объяснить удовлетворительно причину своего длительного пребывания в этой |
| + | местности, кишащей разбойниками, и некоторые из монголов в караване серьезно сомневались |
| + | в нем. Он был прекрасный наездник, как все торгуты, и хороший стрелок. Эти мужественные |
| + | качества необъяснимо объединялись в нем с величайшей трусостью и изменчивым характером. |
| + | Однажды я услышал, как он поет песню, как мне показалось, о Джа ламе. Я попросил его |
| + | повторить слова песни, но он упорно отказывался сделать это и сказал, что он не знает |
| + | песен о нем. Все мои попытки заставить его спеть оказались напрасными, торгут только |
| + | смеялся. Так как ему нужно было охранять караванных животных, я отпустил его. Он вскочил |
| + | в седло и помчался в степь пасти стада. Внезапно донесся его голос – всадник запел туже |
| + | самую песню о Джа ламе. Я слышал мелодию, но не разобрал слов. Человек отказался петь в |
| + | нашем присутствии, но в открытой степи он пел песню старого грабителя о Тен-Пей |
| + | Джал-дзене, воплощении Амурсана. Песня принадлежала пустыне, и петь ее чужестранцам было |
| + | против закона кочевников. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 13 |
| + | |
| + | С этого момента началась наша более или менее оседлая лагерная жизнь в высокогорных |
| + | равнинах Ших-пао-чьенга и Шараголджи. Местный старшина не мог добыть верблюдов до |
| + | августа, а те, которые продавались в его лагере, были плохи, так что мы решили провести |
| + | июнь и июль в долине, а в Тибет отправиться в августе. Тем временем мы смогли изучить |
| + | дальнейший путь и закончить приготовления к большому переходу по горному Тибету. Мы |
| + | решили приобрести для себя верховых лошадей, но покупать их нужно было только в |
| + | китайских деревнях, т к. местные монгольские лошади непригодны для поездки по Тибету. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетские торговцы лошадьми, ежегодно приезжающие в Синин и Кансу, покупают только |
| + | китайских или сининских пони, которые, когда вырастают и становятся иноходцами, приносят |
| + | им большой доход в Лхасе. Мы решили послать нашего проводника-тибетца купить лошадей, |
| + | мулов и провизию в китайскую деревню Чьанг-ма. |
| + | |
| + | Лагерь, разместившийся на плоскогорье, оказался непригодным по двум причинам: во-первых, |
| + | во время дождей поверхность плоскогорья становится грязной, а во-вторых, во время сухого |
| + | периода частые северозападные ветры задувают целые тучи лесса, проникающего в палатки и |
| + | образующего внутри слой пыли. Через несколько дней после нашего приезда местный старшина |
| + | пригласил меня проехать верхом по оазису, чтобы найти подходящее место для лагеря, а |
| + | также посетить его стоянку. Мы ехали по болотистой дороге, и лошади часто вязли в грязи. |
| + | |
| + | Ших-пао-чьенг – большой оазис, простирающийся к северу от Цагана Чулута. Эта обширная |
| + | низина на каменистой равнине, вытянувшейся вдоль бесплодных гор, которые окружают |
| + | равнину с юга и севера и ущельем выходят к деревне Чьанг-ма, расположившейся на западе |
| + | равнины. Оазис представлял собой полосу болот, идущих вдоль берега реки, которая |
| + | питается множеством родников. Многочисленные монгольские поселения, или аилы, |
| + | разместились на клочках твердой и сухой земли вдоль берега основного русла реки. Летом |
| + | оазис покрывается прекрасной травой, растущей на солончаковых землях, пригодной для |
| + | пастбищ |
| + | |
| + | Берега реки и многочисленные болота – настоящий рай для водоплавающих птиц. Морские |
| + | чайки (Chroicocephalus ridibundus), серые гуси (Anser anser), турпаны (Casarca casarca), |
| + | разные виды уток и гагар-чомги (Columbus cristatus) и меньшие разновидности их (Columbus |
| + | minor), бекасы и серые цапли населяют берега реки. |
| + | |
| + | Оазисы и горные пастбища принадлежат монголам-курлукам. Местные монголы и их вожди |
| + | проводят зиму и раннюю весну в оазисе Ших-пао-чьенг. В июне они перемещаются в |
| + | высокогорную долину Шараголджи к югу от Кхашкарского ущелья. Старшина Мачен размещался в |
| + | трех грязных войлочных юртах у реки на сухом и твердом клочке земли. Его семья была |
| + | такой же грязной, как и его юрты, и еще больше усиливала впечатление неопрятности. При |
| + | нашем приезде несколько мальчиков выбежали из юрты и взяли лошадей. Мы вошли в большую |
| + | юрту вместе с женой хозяина. Почти все домочадцы были одеты в тяжелые шубы из овчины, |
| + | закрывающие нижнюю часть тела и оставляющие открытой грудь и шею. Только на некоторых |
| + | были зеленые или белые рубашки под шубой, у большинства же не было ничего. Глава семьи |
| + | сел на груду овчин и пригласил меня сесть на низкий матрац. Остальные члены семьи |
| + | расположились на полу. Рядом с небольшим деревянным алтарем с несколькими медными грубой |
| + | работы фигурками Будды Сакьямуни, Тары и Дзон-капы, тибетского реформатора, сидел лама |
| + | из Амдо в огромных китайских очках, которые закрывали почти весь лоб, и читал молитвы из |
| + | книги, лежащей у него на коленях. На стол подали сыр и араки, напиток из молока. |
| + | |
| + | После часового разговора мы решили вопрос с верблюдами для будущего каравана. Хозяин |
| + | согласился сдать нам своих верблюдов до Нагчу – первого тибетского поселения на северном |
| + | караванном пути. Он сказал мне, что получил беспокойные известия из Теиджинера в Южном |
| + | Цайдаме, где вооруженные банды голоков или панагов напали на монгольские поселения в |
| + | долине реки Нейджи и разграбили их. Он настаивал на том, чтобы при караване был большой |
| + | вооруженный отряд. Он также сказал мне, что его князь в прошлом году получил приказ из |
| + | Лхасы не разрешать европейцам проходить здесь. Этот приказ не распространялся на нас, |
| + | т.к. у нас были тибетские паспорта и рекомендательные письма, кроме того нас сопровождал |
| + | до Тибета чиновник, назначенный тибетским представителем в Урге. |
| + | |
| + | Обсудив все вопросы, касающиеся нашего будущего путешествия в Нагчу, я поехал поискать |
| + | подходящее место для лагеря. Самые лучшие места для стоянок уже были заняты монгольскими |
| + | аилами. Мы нашли большую речную террасу с твердой сухой землей, на которой можно было бы |
| + | разместить лагерь. На следующий день мы переезжали. Трудно было найти достаточное |
| + | количество животных, чтобы перевести весь груз экспедиции. Небольшую повозку одолжили |
| + | нам на день китайские крестьяне. Пришлось делать несколько рейсов, чтобы перевезти весь |
| + | тяжелый багаж. Мачен прислал нам десять верблюдов, остальные были далеко в горах. |
| + | Оставшийся груз перевезли на лошадях. Устроившись на новом месте, мы послали переводчика |
| + | с монголом в Чьанг-ма покупать лошадей и мулов. |
| + | |
| + | Креме исследования оазиса, у каждого из нас было много дел. Профессор Рерих продолжал |
| + | свою живопись. Госпожа Рерих и ее две помощницы занимались багажом экспедиции, составляя |
| + | список вещей, необходимых для будущего перехода по Тибету. Доктор, кроме оказания |
| + | медицинской помощи, исследовал оазис, его фауну и флору. Портнягин был все время занят |
| + | транспортными вопросами, седлами и другими вещами, которые отнимают так много времени в |
| + | лагерной жизни. Я изучал местных монголов, их язык и обычаи, кроме того, интересовался |
| + | будущей дорогой через топи и болота Цайдама, а также горными дорогами Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Оказалось, что монгольские племена Цайдама никогда раньше не исследовались. Скудную |
| + | информацию об их диалекте можно было получить из отчетов прошлых путешественников и из |
| + | работ по монгольской лингвистике доктора А.Д.Руднева и г. Цыбикова. |
| + | |
| + | Однажды вечером мы увидели нашего проводника, подъезжающего к лагерю на красивой черной |
| + | лошади и ведущего за собой большой табун лошадей и мулов. Животные были хорошим |
| + | подспорьем каравану. Проводник-тибетец хорошо понял свою задачу и привел целое стадо |
| + | прекрасных животных, многие из которых дошли до Индии, до самого Дарджилинга, после |
| + | долгой и трудной зимы в тибетском нагорье. |
| + | |
| + | Портнягин вскоре отправился в Чьанг-ма и Сучоу в провинции Кансу. Ему было поручено |
| + | закупить продовольствие и установить связь с Америкой. Через две недели он вернулся с |
| + | парой красавцев коней. Его отослали снова в Чьанг-ма купить вьючных мулов для |
| + | экспедиции. Мы решили, что надо иметь несколько мулов в караване для перевозки |
| + | имущества. |
| + | |
| + | В Ших-пао-чьенге, несмотря на его высокогорное расположение, наступила неприятная жара, |
| + | и мы стали расспрашивать местного старшину о том, не лучше ли условия в высокогорных |
| + | долинах Шараголджи – летних пастбищах местных монголов. Он ответил, что там нет дождей и |
| + | скудная трава. Он посоветовал подождать недели две. Вопрос о продовольствии все еще |
| + | стоял перед нами и вызывал беспокойство. Многие провинции Кансу были охвачены голодом в |
| + | результате недавнего перемещения войск. Власти Аньси запретили продажу муки и риса без |
| + | специального разрешения. Стало невозможно пополнить запасы муки для экспедиции. Местные |
| + | китайские торговцы взвинтили цены на муку, оставалось только послать одного из наших |
| + | людей купить муку в Чьанг-ма. Мы снова послали проводника-тибетца, который хорошо знал |
| + | китайский язык, купить все в необходимом количестве, и он через неделю вернулся с |
| + | ячменной мукой. |
| + | |
| + | 15 июня местный старшина приехал к нам и сообщил, что условия в долине Шараголджи |
| + | улучшились и посоветовал нам переехать туда. Отъезд был намечен на 18 июня. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 14 |
| + | |
| + | 19 августа 1927. Этим утром я поднялся задолго до рассвета. Лагерь еще спал и |
| + | тишину нарушали только размеренные шаги часового и жевание верблюдов, привязанных |
| + | веревками к кольям. Из темноты появился большой силуэт одного из наших монголов, |
| + | отвечающего за стадо лошадей и мулов. Он вел наших животных, силуэты которых |
| + | представляли черную массу за лагерем. Часовой начал разводить костер, и на фоне |
| + | колеблющегося пламени из палаток стали выползать плотные фигуры монголов. Лагерь быстро |
| + | пробуждался к жизни, и повсюду замелькали люди, занятые складыванием палаток и груза. |
| + | Рассвет осветил горизонт, и длинная вереница верблюдов начала движение к горам на юге |
| + | долины. Передние верблюды несли свой обрядовый груз – шарфы и ящики с амулетами, которые |
| + | должны были защищать их от бед на высоких перевалах Тибета. Тропа поднималась все выше и |
| + | выше, и вскоре длинный песчаный уступ скрыл от нас долину. Мы вошли в песчаное ущелье, |
| + | ведущее к перевалу Улан-дабан, и разбили лагерь на площадке, покрытой зеленой травой. К |
| + | югу от лагеря поднимались фиолетовые скалистые вершины, которые дают название горному |
| + | перевалу. Поздно вечером к нашему лагерю присоединилось несколько монголов-курлуков, |
| + | державших путь в Махай. Таков местный обычай – путешествовать всегда с кем-нибудь, и |
| + | монголы, которые присоединились к нам вечером, ехали верхом небольшой группой из четырех |
| + | человек. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 15 |
| + | |
| + | Требовался двадцать один день, чтобы пройти унылое, негостеприимное нагорье Тибета. |
| + | Широкие равнины плоскогорья, расположенные на высоте примерно пятнадцати-шестнадцати |
| + | тысяч футов, простирающиеся к югу от Куньлуня и к северу от Трансгималаев, называются |
| + | по-тибетски «Чантанг», или «северная равнина». Это страна экстремального климата, |
| + | палящего солнца в редкие солнечные дни лета с резко холодными ночами. Ураганные ветры и |
| + | большие колебания температуры способствовали формированию рельефа. Когда-то высоко |
| + | поднятая страна, пересеченная горными хребтами, Тибетское нагорье сейчас представляет |
| + | область выветренных горных цепей и широких межгорных равнин, места пребывания стад диких |
| + | яков. |
| + | |
| + | **16 сентября** |
| + | |
| + | Наша первая ночь на Тибетском нагорье прошла в полной тишине, каждый отдыхал после |
| + | предыдущих напряженных дней. Тишина была нарушаема лишь стонами страдающего нирва, |
| + | примкнувшего к экспедиции. «Аро, аро, аро!» («Друг, друг, друг!») – слышались его |
| + | печальные жалобы. Ночью у него был сильный сердечный приступ, и было чудом, что он выжил |
| + | и утром мог продолжить путь. Наш доктор старался облегчить страдания, но каждый шаг |
| + | верблюда причинял ему боль. |
| + | |
| + | Путь следовал долиной, защищенной грядой низких холмов. Маленькая речка, названная |
| + | нашими монгольскими проводниками Ангар Дакчин-гол, текла через долину. После длительного |
| + | перехода через песчаную равнину мы разбили лагерь на берегу озера с пресной водой, |
| + | питаемого летними дождями. Несколько людей, которые отправлялись в окрестности на поиски |
| + | топлива, сообщили, что видели всадников у соседних холмов. Это означало, что мы снова |
| + | должны будем охранять себя и быть особенно бдительными ночью. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 16 |
| + | |
| + | Генерал отбыл, и большой лагерь опустел. Большинство хорпов, состоявших в свите |
| + | верховного комиссара, возвратились к своим пастбищам. Только вожди пяти племен Хора и |
| + | майор Со-нам Топ-джьел с отрядом солдат остался в лагере, чтобы заниматься нами и |
| + | следить за нашими передвижениями. Охрана милиции была размещена в лагере, но служащим и |
| + | караванным запрещали говорить с незнакомцами. Милиционеры, растрепанные люди в грязных |
| + | шубах из овчины, сидели довольно далеко от палаток и наблюдали за каждым нашим |
| + | движением. Начальник, отвечающий за пост милиции, был приятным человеком с хорошими |
| + | манерами и делал все возможное, чтобы помочь нам. Он имел южно-европейскую внешность, |
| + | орлиный нос, длинные прямые волосы, носил одежду из лилового пуру и прелестную |
| + | серебряную шкатулку. По его словам, северная тибетская граница была закрыта с прошлого |
| + | года. |
| + | |
| + | Маршрут от Нагчу до Лхасы строго охранялся военными постами, которые останавливали и |
| + | обыскивали безобидных паломников из Монголии и с китайской границы, и только цайдамским |
| + | монголам разрешалось проходить относительно свободно. Страна была взволнована слухами, |
| + | что Таши лама приближался с огромным множеством монгольских и китайских войск. |
| + | |
| + | Майор Со-нам Топ-джьел нанес нам официальный визит и расспросил о нуждах. Он сообщил нам |
| + | о своей уверенности, что ответ от правительства Лхасы будет получен скоро и что нам |
| + | будет позволено пересечь территорию Внутреннего Тибета. У него было в запасе много |
| + | историй о своих военных приключениях. Он получил свое звание во время китайско-тибетской |
| + | войны 1918 г., во время участия в осаде Ри-во-че и Чамдо. Он встречал китайского |
| + | командира крепости Чамдо генерала Пенга и даже помнил, что видел нашего старого |
| + | китайского переводчика Цая, взятого в плен и заключенного в Ри-во-че. Майор |
| + | порекомендовал нам послать всех животных на выпас с хорошей травой, расположенный на |
| + | расстоянии около восьми миль к северо-западу от Чу-на-кхе. Он обещал послать четырех |
| + | человек для охраны лошадей и мулов. Поскольку не было никакой другой возможности достать |
| + | пропитание, а зерна имелось очень мало, мы были вынуждены согласиться, хотя и сильно |
| + | против своего желания. Многие из этих животных так никогда больше и не возвратились в |
| + | лагерь, погибнув от холода и недостатка пищи. Мы получили только их хвосты, которые были |
| + | возвращены, как доказательство того, что животные умерли. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 17 |
| + | |
| + | Обширная горная местность севернее Нагчу в Тибете известна под названием Хор, а племена |
| + | кочевников, населяющие ее, называются хорпами. Чтобы отличить ее от пяти княжеств Хора |
| + | (тиб. Хор-сде-лнга) на границе Сичуаня, район севернее Нагчу назван Нуп-хор (тиб. |
| + | Нуб-хор) или Западный Хор. |
| + | |
| + | Восточный Хор посетил и описал французский исследователь М.Ж.Бакот во время его |
| + | знаменитого путешествия в 1909 г. |
| + | |
| + | Границы обширной провинции хорошо обозначены. Линии границы обычно проходят вдоль горных |
| + | хребтов, но во многих случаях племена хорпов пасут свой скот с обеих сторон от границы. |
| + | Южная граница провинции проходит по горной цепи, в которой расположен перевал Тасангла |
| + | (высотой 16570 футов). Хотя узкая горная долина непосредственно южнее перевала, перевал |
| + | находится все еще на территории племени Паоро. |
| + | |
| + | С запада Хор граничит с племенной территорией Амдо тшо-нак, населенной |
| + | переселенцами из Амдо, управляемой губернаторами Нагчу. За северной границей области, |
| + | называемой Дричу, или Янцзе, находятся необитаемые тибетские плоскогорья, относящиеся к |
| + | Чантангу. В Дричу располагаются каких-нибудь двадцать палаток, которые занимают главным |
| + | образом заставы милиции и их семьи, которые пасут стада домашних яков на южном берегу |
| + | реки. |
| + | |
| + | К востоку и северо-востоку регион Хора простирается далеко к Таши гомпа и провинции |
| + | Нангчен, которая управляется китайскими властями из Синина. |
| + | |
| + | Я дам только общее описание природного аспекта страны; детальные описания уже давались в |
| + | предыдущих главах о продвижении экспедиции. |
| + | |
| + | Регион Хора – это страна, в которой чередуются покрытые травой холмы, долины с |
| + | болотистой почвой и огромные снежные горные цепи, которые в большинстве тянутся с запада |
| + | на восток. К востоку страна больше пересечена и своим ландшафтом, с узкими и глубокими |
| + | разрезами долин, возвышающимися утесами, напоминает путешественнику периферийные области |
| + | Восточного Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Главная географическая особенность – высокий обширнейший горный массив Тангла, |
| + | водораздел между верхним течением рек Дричу (Янцзы), Дзачу (Меконга) и Нагчу (Салуина). |
| + | Эти три великие реки Азии имеют свой источник в этом регионе. Горные местности между |
| + | верхним течением Меконга и Салуина пока еще не исследованы. Ни американский, ни |
| + | европейский путешественник не пересекал отдаленные восточные ответвления могущественного |
| + | Тангла. Район изобилует горячими серными источниками и подземными ключами с пресной |
| + | водой. Ровные почвы долин покрыты разновидностью крупной осоки, которая предоставляет |
| + | обильные пастбища стадам рогатого скота и овец. Поросшая травой местность Хора является |
| + | одной из крупнейших скотоводческих областей в Тибете и одним из закрытых владений |
| + | правительства Лхасы. |
| + | |
| + | Климат суровый и необычный, западные ветры проносятся через волнистые холмы и нагорья. |
| + | Длинная и жестокая холодная зима в шесть месяцев замораживает страну и делает ее |
| + | пустынной и негостеприимной. Снежная зима часто вызывает сильный падеж скота, и большое |
| + | количество богатых семейств часто доходят до бедности после суровых ураганов, длящихся |
| + | неделями, которые покрывают местность слоем снега в 4-5 футов. |
| + | |
| + | Весна начинается только в конце апреля или в мае, когда реки вскрываются и земля, |
| + | насыщенная талой водой, украшает луга свежей травой. За весной следует короткое лето в |
| + | каких-нибудь два месяца. В этот период местность получает наибольшее количество осадков, |
| + | которые выпадают с конца июля до конца августа. Ясные солнечные дни летом редки, и |
| + | вершины гор скрыты плотными дождевыми тучами. Затем приходит прохладная и ясная осень с |
| + | бодрящими безветренными днями и холодными, но ясными ночами – лучший сезон для |
| + | путешествий по всей горной местности Тибета. Я уже писал о значительных суточных |
| + | изменениях температуры, которые характерны для Тибета и других пустынных областей |
| + | Внутренней Азии. Перепады температур и ураганные ветры, дующие поздней осенью и ранней |
| + | весной, сильно способствовали формированию рельефа местности. |
| + | |
| + | С географической точки зрения, такое поросшее травой нагорье простирается далеко до |
| + | снежного массива Шанг-шунг канг-ри, который формирует южное основание Северного |
| + | Тибетского нагорья. Соседний округ Нагчу является только административной территорией, а |
| + | не географической частью. То же можно сказать и о других районах – Намру, Нагтшанг, |
| + | Чохор. |
| + | |
| + | В течение длительного периода китайского господства теперешний район Хора составлял |
| + | часть обширной провинции Джьяде (рДжья-сде), которая протянулась так далеко, что |
| + | достигала заброшенной Ривоче и управлялась специальным китайским комиссаром, проживавшим |
| + | в Лхасе. Со времен китайской революции и провозглашения независимости теперешним |
| + | тибетским правительством, регион Хора был включен в территорию ламаистского королевства |
| + | Лхасы и составил провинцию, управляемую пограничным верховным комиссаром, известным под |
| + | титулом Хор-чьи-чьяп (тиб. Хор-спьи-кхьяб) или верховным комиссаром Хора. |
| + | |
| + | Современные авторы, кажется, имеют тенденцию к стиранию названия Хор с карты Тибета. |
| + | Доктор Свен Гедин, прошедший Западный Тибет, пишет: |
| + | |
| + | «Тибетцы называют тюркский Хор или Хор-па и монгольский Сок, или Сок-па (Сок-по). Вы не |
| + | встретите тюрок до тех пор, пока вы не достигнете северной стороны гор Квенлун. Но |
| + | согласно почти всем современным картам, нет вообще ни одного тюрка в центре тибетского |
| + | плато. Более того, там нет никого вообще, ибо это та часть Тибета, которую на наших |
| + | картах обычно называют Хор, и она не населена». |
| + | |
| + | Делла Пенна и Наин Сингх, одни из местных топографов индийской тригонометрической |
| + | инспекции, руководящей изысканиями в области геологии, геодезии и гидрографии, называют |
| + | словом «Хор» все нагорья региона западнее провинции Нгари корсум, и область севернее |
| + | тридцать второй широты была названа «Хором» на европейских картах. В действительности |
| + | название принадлежит только району Джьяде, северо-восточнее Тенгри-нора и западнее |
| + | Амдо тшо-нака. В тибетской исторической хронике названием «Хор» или «Джья-хор» |
| + | обычно обозначают монгольские племена или племена средне-азиатского происхождения, |
| + | которые с восьмого по девятое столетие нашей эры непрерывно переходили Тибет и особенно |
| + | северо-восточную границу. |
| + | |
| + | В современном разговорном языке слово «Хор» представляет тибетское этническое название |
| + | для кочевых племен смешанного происхождения, что жили между племенами панаг-голоков и |
| + | чангпов в регионе Великих Озер. В них видна примесь иностранного происхождения, и мы |
| + | легко распознаем монгольский, тюркский и даже тип Homo alpinus, последние, вероятно, |
| + | соответствуют частичной смеси иранской и скифской крови. Они сохранили слабые |
| + | воспоминания о своем отдаленном среднеазиатском происхождении и даже теперь смотрят |
| + | больше на Пекин и большие страны Центральной Азии, чем на Лхасу. Для них Лхаса – только |
| + | временный правитель, который разорвал их существовавшую столетия связь с Китаем. |
| + | |
| + | Я обосновываю сообщение о хорпах на моих личных наблюдениях, сделанных во время |
| + | пятимесячного пребывания среди пяти хорских племен, которые расположены севернее и южнее |
| + | хребта Тангла. Они формируют пять шорка, или племенных подразделений, которые обозначены |
| + | названиями Цемар, Атак-мемар, Атак-томи, Комора и Паоро. |
| + | |
| + | Наиболее важной из пяти является шорка Цемар, управляемая пон-по, или вождем с титулом |
| + | де-пон (сде-дпон), или районным главой, который решает, кто будет самый старший среди |
| + | пяти хорских вождей. Все эти пять племенных частей не равны по размерам. Тогда как Цемар |
| + | шорка имеет около тысячи палаток с населением от четырех с половиной до пяти тысяч |
| + | человек, племенные части Комора и Паоро имеют только около четырех сотен палаток каждая. |
| + | Большие племена обитают вверх по течению Меконга и в более низких долинах Салуина, но, |
| + | как я уже сообщал, обширная горная область между верхним течением Меконга и Салуина все |
| + | еще не исследована, и невозможно дать даже примерные цифры населения. |
| + | |
| + | Хорпы пока сохранили свою племенную организацию и обладают некоторой автономией, |
| + | которая, однако, быстро исчезает. Можно не сомневаться, что правительство Лхасы |
| + | намеревается создать надежное правление в отдаленных провинциях. Верховный комиссар |
| + | является должностным лицом четвертого ранга и главным представителем центрального |
| + | правительства в регионе. Он разбирает случаи межплеменной вражды, контролирует сбор |
| + | налогов и обеспечивает безопасность торговых путей, пересекающих территорию региона. Во |
| + | время холодных зимних месяцев он обычно проживает где-нибудь в восточных районах |
| + | области, иногда в Бьиру гомпа или каком-нибудь другом монастыре или городе. Тяжесть |
| + | расходов ложится на местное население, которое обязано поставлять продукты питания, корм |
| + | для скота и топливо для верховного комиссара, его свиты и слуг, и это вынуждает его |
| + | часто менять официальные места проживания. В течение летних месяцев верховный комиссар |
| + | часто делает объезд района. Эта инспекция – источник многих неприятностей для местного |
| + | населения. Племена должны снабжать грузовыми животными и верховыми лошадьми |
| + | многочисленных слуг комиссара, организовывать смену этапов в удобных местах вдоль пути |
| + | комиссара и направлять сотни мужчин и женщин следить за потребностями группы. Мелкие |
| + | чиновники используют эти возможности, чтобы обогатить себя, принимая взятки в деньгах и |
| + | рогатым скотом. При расследовании таких случаев клеркам суда, которые заносят в протокол |
| + | свидетельские показания, могут дать взятку прежде, чем случай пойдет для конечного |
| + | решения верховному комиссару. В выполнении официальных обязанностей верховному комиссару |
| + | Хора помогают два должностных лица пятого ранга, которые действуют как советники. |
| + | |
| + | Единственное занятие страны – скотоводство. Налог, который районы выплачивают |
| + | правительству Лхасы начиная с 1912 года, состоит из масла, шерсти, шкур и другой |
| + | продукции от скотоводства. Скотоводство всегда было национальным занятием хорпов. Но |
| + | даже в настоящее время оно проводится очень примитивно во всех отношениях, в результате |
| + | чего породы рогатого скота и лошадей быстро ухудшаются. Хорпы не заготавливают сено на |
| + | зиму, считая это вредным для божеств земли. Рогатый скот кормится исключительно травой, |
| + | и зимой им приходится находить себе пищу, раскапывая снег копытами. В этом поиске корма |
| + | лошади часто теряют последние силы и умирают от истощения. Всю зиму стада рогатого скота |
| + | и лошадей должны пребывать на открытом воздухе без какого-либо укрытия, защищающего их в |
| + | холодные зимние ночи. Только самые сильные животные выдерживают эти серьезные испытания. |
| + | |
| + | Несмотря на плохие условия для скотоводства, область все еще относительно богата стадами |
| + | яков и овец, но старые жители утверждали, что в дни их молодости, около тридцати лет |
| + | назад, область обладала огромными стадами домашних яков и овец и что за прошедшие |
| + | тридцать или сорок лет поголовье стад резко сократилось. Это особенно заметно в стадах |
| + | овец. Общеизвестный факт – количество овец уменьшается по всей Центральной Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Яки снабжают регион основными продуктами – шкурами, шерстью, хвостами, маслом и другими |
| + | молочными продуктами. Як – также главное вьючное животное во всем регионе. Стада овец |
| + | снабжают шерстью, которая также принимается правительством или продается частным |
| + | торговым учреждениям, которые отправляют ее в Лхасу и оттуда торговым маршрутом Гьянгце |
| + | – Чумби в Индию. Лошади встречаются только в небольшом количестве. Они используются |
| + | почти исключительно как верховые животные, и одна семья редко имеет больше трех или пяти |
| + | лошадей. Область не экспортирует лошадей, и большинство животных используются здесь же. |
| + | Лошади хорской породы не крупные, но выносливые. Большой недостаток – довольно тяжелая |
| + | голова, из-за чего лошадь с трудом слушается узды и обычно неповоротлива в движении. |
| + | Разведенная в обширных степях страны, она не предназначена для верховых скачек, а |
| + | используется только для караванов, поскольку хорошо ходит по каменным тропам. Эти лошади |
| + | никогда не подковываются, что делает их поступь чрезвычайно уверенной и неоценимой на |
| + | плохих горных путях. |
| + | |
| + | В среднем кочевое домашнее хозяйство Хора имеет от двадцати до пятидесяти яков и от |
| + | одной до трех сотен овец. Лошади принадлежат богатым людям, некоторые из них имеют |
| + | многочисленные табуны. Самые большие стада яков и лошадей, которые мы видели во время |
| + | нашего движения, принадлежали монастырям или богатым купцам из Нагчу и Лхасы. Большой |
| + | монастырь Дрепунг имел большие стада домашних яков и отары овец в прилегающих к районам |
| + | Нагчу и Нагтшанг. Севернее Танглы мы встретили стадо, состоящее примерно из пяти сотен |
| + | яков, принадлежащее богатому торговцу из Нагчу. Это стадо было под присмотром местного |
| + | кочевника, который отвечал за животных и должен был поставлять определенное количество |
| + | шерсти яков, хвостов, шкур, масла и других молочных продуктов. |
| + | |
| + | Главное экономическое богатство Тибета находится в этих кочевых скотоводческих районах. |
| + | Лишите Тибет областей скотоводства, и страна будет голодать. |
| + | |
| + | Земледельческие районы Тибета не способны прокормить все население страны, и продукция |
| + | их почти не экспортируется, кроме некоторого ежегодного выпуска ткани и священных |
| + | предметов, изготавливаемых монастырями. Все же ценные изделия Тибета, экспортируемые в |
| + | Китай, Индию и Монголию, такие, как шерсть, шкуры, шерстяные ткани, хвосты яков и меха, |
| + | производятся кочевыми районами. Именно эти бедные оборванные кочевники, живущие на |
| + | высоте до пятнадцати тысяч футов, обогащают правительство и поставляют изделия на |
| + | экспорт. Это кочевое население – мощный экономический фактор. Суровая снежная зима, |
| + | уничтожающая огромное количество скота, является бедствием для всей страны. В прошедшие |
| + | несколько лет северные тибетские нагорья, расположенные к северу и югу от хребта Тангла, |
| + | пережили несколько очень суровых и снежных зим. Вся страна была покрыта снегом, и |
| + | рогатый скот и овцы погибали тысячами. В результате этих несчастливых лет скотоводству в |
| + | кочевых районах Северного Тибета был нанесен тяжелый удар. |
| + | |
| + | Значительная часть ежегодной продукции идет на выплату налогов правительству. Налог, |
| + | который собирается от имени правительства Лхасы, пропорционален богатству частного |
| + | налогоплательщика и меняется согласно потребностям правительства. Дополнительный налог |
| + | иногда взимается с района как штраф. Иногда налоги отменяются, если район сильно |
| + | пострадал от снегопадов, неожиданной потери рогатого скота или эпидемии. В течение |
| + | долгого периода китайского правления область Хор была освобождена от уплаты регулярных |
| + | налогов и полагалось только представлять дань верховному суду Китая один раз в четыре |
| + | года. Ежегодный налог, наложенный на западные племена хорпов тибетским правительством, – |
| + | одна из главных причин недовольства, отмечаемого в регионе. Прежняя связь с Китаем все |
| + | еще явно заметна здесь и хорошо демонстрируется тем, что кочевое население предпочитает |
| + | китайскую валюту лхасской. |
| + | |
| + | Общепринятая форма торговли – бартерная. Большинство едут торговать в Синин и в |
| + | восточные районы Тибета. Хор имеет преимущество в том, что расположен вблизи от |
| + | нескольких важных торговых путей Тибета: монгольско-цайдамского пути, сининского |
| + | маршрута, дороги на Тачиенлу и северного ладакского маршрута. Все эти трассы ведут в |
| + | Нагчу, главный тибетский перевалочный пункт пограничной торговли. Лхасские торговцы, |
| + | которые основали торговые пункты на всей территории области, постоянно стремятся |
| + | направить местную торговлю на юг и сделать хорские племена зависящими от лхасской |
| + | продукции. Несомненно, с практическим закрытием китайско-тибетской границы и при |
| + | существующей поддержке тибетского правительства их действия будут очень облегчены. Кроме |
| + | правительственных торговых агентств, страна кишит мелкими торговцами, представляющими |
| + | частные интересы или большие монастырские предприятия. Во временном лагере верховного |
| + | комиссара Хор в Чу-на-кхе мы нашли, кроме правительственных торговых агентов и |
| + | таможенных чиновников, целую армию частных торговцев и доньеров, или представителей |
| + | важных фирм Лхасы. Все они внимательно наблюдают за торговым маршрутом Синин – Лхаса, и |
| + | это чудо, что их интересы не сталкиваются и что все они, кажется, получают достаточную |
| + | прибыль. |
| + | |
| + | В обмен на продукты земледелия лхасские и сининские торговцы предлагают разнообразные |
| + | изделия китайского и иностранного производства. Купцы из Синина и Тачиенлу доставляют в |
| + | страну китайский шелк, брикеты чая и другие изделия, специально изготовленные китайскими |
| + | фирмами для тибетской торговли. Лхасские торговцы показывают в своих палатках |
| + | галантерейные товары, ткани иностранного производства, лекарства китайского и японского |
| + | производства и покрытые эмалью изделия, которые недавно вошли в моду в отдаленных |
| + | районах Внутренней Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетский торговец обычно проводит свои дни, сидя в своей палатке среди тюков и ящиков с |
| + | товарами, принимая визиты от местных старшин и кочевников. Все садятся на корточки на |
| + | полу вокруг огня, пьют бесконечные чашки чая с маслом и курят длинные китайские трубки. |
| + | Обсуждаются сделки, и помощники тшонг-пона, или торговца, определяют количество и |
| + | качество местных изделий, предлагаемых в обмен на изделия иностранного производства. |
| + | Галантерейные товары пользуются большим спросом, и маленькие дешевые изделия идут здесь |
| + | по чрезмерно высокой цене. Ведется очень оживленная торговля медными военными |
| + | пуговицами, которые привозятся главным образом из Индии. Богатые кочевники очень |
| + | гордятся своими пуговицами с английской надписью «Непал». |
| + | |
| + | Большая торговля ведется огнестрельным оружием и боеприпасами. Современные магазинные |
| + | винтовки, обычно армейских образцов, доставляются в страну из Китая, Монголии и Индии. |
| + | Винтовки Бердана, Мартини, русские армейские винтовки, Ли-Энгфильда, маузеры, манлихеры |
| + | и японские Арисака можно увидеть заброшенными за спину наездников хорпов, которые |
| + | обладают хорошим знанием современного огнестрельного оружия. Приклады для оружия |
| + | изготавливают в Нагчу. Мастерство исполнения приклада и приспособления его к стволу |
| + | очень высоко. Постоянна потребность в автоматических пистолетах Маузера, любимом |
| + | огнестрельном оружии тибетских и монгольских офицеров. Хороший пистолет Маузера с сотней |
| + | патронов продается за четыре сотни нгу-сангов (около двух сотен долларов). |
| + | |
| + | Человек с пистолетом Маузера может благополучно путешествовать через области, кишащие |
| + | разбойниками, и ни один не подумает напасть на него. Безопасность, получаемая |
| + | путешественниками, вооруженными маузерами, заставляет изготавливать маузерообразные |
| + | деревянные кобуры для револьверов различных образцов. Теперь многие из разбойников знают |
| + | об обмане и обычно ухитряются обнаружить правду. |
| + | |
| + | Один из членов экспедиции имел бельгийский револьвер, который он носил в кожаной кобуре |
| + | маузера. Панагский разбойник, который однажды нанес визит в наш лагерь и проявил большой |
| + | интерес к нашему огнестрельному оружию, быстро выяснил тип револьвера и, взяв нашего |
| + | помощника за руку, спросил его с лукавой улыбкой: «Вы думаете, ваш маузер настоящий?» |
| + | |
| + | Такова экономическая жизнь региона и ее место среди пятидесяти четырех административных |
| + | районов Тибета. Теперь позвольте описать самих людей, их жизнь и религию на угрюмых |
| + | нагорьях Нуп-хора. |
| + | |
| + | Хорпы встречаются в значительных количествах только южнее хребта Тангла. Севернее от |
| + | этого хребта их стоянки рассеяны на больших расстояниях друг от друга. В результате |
| + | недавних переворотов и последующего голода, вызванного несколькими снежными зимами, |
| + | кочевое население сократилось. Многие покидали свою родную горную местность, чтобы |
| + | искать удачи в плодородных районах Восточного Тибета. Другие появлялись около торговых |
| + | маршрутов как нищие и как разбойники, готовые напасть на одиноких путешественников или |
| + | маленькие партии паломников. |
| + | |
| + | При пересечении открытых всем ветрам нагорий Северного Тибета с их почти ужасающим |
| + | бесплодием одно удивляет, где тут можно встретить человеческие существа. Только полное |
| + | несчастье могло бы заставить людей жить на этих необитаемых горах и равнинах. Иногда |
| + | после многих дней трудного путешествия, когда почти каждый день гибли от лишений или |
| + | оставлялись животные каравана, мы видели квадратные каменные стены и кучи навоза. Это |
| + | была, вероятно, стоянка кочевников. Мертвые туши домашних яков подтверждали |
| + | предположение. После этих первых следов человеческой деятельности путешественник снова в |
| + | течение нескольких дней больше не видит даже признаков кочевников или их стад. Снежная |
| + | буря заметает местность, а окрестные горы прячутся в густом белом тумане. Путешественник |
| + | едет с головой, склоненной вперед, его плечи и грудь покрыты толстым слоем влажного |
| + | снега. Он едва смотрит вперед, и только выносливые яки находят правильное направление в |
| + | этой снежной пограничной области. Внезапно слышишь отдаленный звон, почти |
| + | сверхъестественный звук среди ревущего шторма. Затем замечаешь впереди что-то темное. |
| + | Странно видеть всадников, появляющихся из тумана, с длинными мушкетами за спинами, |
| + | верхом на маленьких лохматых лошадях. Они останавливаются, некоторые из них спешиваются, |
| + | что означает, что это мирные путешественники и не имеют плохих намерений. Их лица закрыты |
| + | грубо сделанными масками, и их головы защищены большими меховыми шапками, которые |
| + | полностью закрывают голову и уши и держатся веревочной завязкой под подбородком. Длинные |
| + | неряшливые пряди черных волос висят с обеих сторон лица. Грязные серые шубы из овчины и |
| + | высокие сапоги, сделанные из толстой тибетской суконной ткани, защищают людей от |
| + | жестокого холода. Все вооружены длинными саблями и мушкетами, а иногда даже современными |
| + | винтовками. Большие разукрашенные патронташи надеты крест-накрест на шубы. Иногда среди |
| + | них бывает женщина, сопровождающая мужчин. Она одета подобно им, только ее шуба из |
| + | овчины более длинная и отсутствует вооружение. Это, вероятно, группа кочевников после |
| + | охоты на диких яков. Во время таких поездок они живут на сыром мясе животных, которых |
| + | убивают, и на маленьких порциях цампы – национальной тибетской еды. Они не возят |
| + | палатки, а проводят ночь под открытым небом, спя в странных согнутых позах, и часто |
| + | бывают полностью захоронены снегом. М.Ж.Бакот сообщает в своей книге о Восточном Тибете: |
| + | |
| + | «Их лошади, эти выносливые маленькие животные, которые живут на сухом мясе, цампе и чае, |
| + | остаются стоять около своих спящих владельцев, повернувшись спиной к бушующему ветру». |
| + | |
| + | Таков вид временной стоянки кочевников в дикой местности тибетских нагорий. Пытаясь |
| + | объясниться с этими кочевниками, можно услышать странные гортанные звуки, так непохожие |
| + | на плавную и мягкую речь лхасских тибетцев. |
| + | |
| + | После этой первой встречи путешественник снова едет несколько дней, не находя даже следа |
| + | человеческого пребывания. Затем вдруг он видит огромное стадо черных и бурых домашних |
| + | яков, спускающихся со склонов горы. Дикого вида люди в серых овчинных шубах пасут стадо. |
| + | Они кружат вокруг своих животных, иногда посвистывая, иногда издавая специфические |
| + | резкие звуки, пронзающие разреженную атмосферу. Эти люди не носят головных уборов, и их |
| + | длинные неряшливые пряди волос развеваются на ветру. Все люди заняты изготовлением |
| + | веревок из овечьей шерсти, которую они раскатывают между ладонями, а затем скручивают на |
| + | маленьких кусочках древесины. Это – любимый род занятий кочевников при движении их стада |
| + | или при сидении на корточках у костров. Присутствие стада домашних яков указывает, что |
| + | стоянка кочевников где-то недалеко. |
| + | |
| + | Проехав еще немного, путешественник замечает несколько больших черных палаток в долине, |
| + | защищенной от ветров. Большие черные собаки с огромными красными и синими ошейниками |
| + | мчатся к дороге и свирепо лают. Тибет имеет специфическую породу огромных собак, |
| + | известных европейцам под названием тибетских мастифов. Они иногда почти достигают |
| + | размера маленького осла, с толстой черной шерстью, широкой и мощной грудью, огромной |
| + | головой и мощными челюстями. Они, как известно, нападают на волков; и я сам знал одну, |
| + | которая успешно боролась со снежным леопардом. Чтобы сделать этих животных менее |
| + | опасными, кочевники привязывают одну из передних ног собаки к ошейнику, что делает |
| + | невозможным для нее напасть на путешественников и нанести им ущерб. Ночью собакам дают |
| + | свободу. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетскую кочевую палатку обычно называемую ба-наг, или «черная палатка», часто |
| + | сравнивают с гигантским пауком. Она сделана из черной шерсти яка, и состоит из двух |
| + | частей, связанных узкими полосками по тем местам крыши, где зафиксированы два палаточных |
| + | шеста. Отверстие в крыше, таким образом, оставлено открытым для выхода дыма наружу. |
| + | Палатку держат два установленных вертикально шеста и многочисленные веревки, которые |
| + | обычно очень длинные, ибо такие держат палатку лучше во время частых буранов. Не |
| + | используются ни железные, ни деревянные колышки, веревки обычно привязываются к камням. |
| + | Иногда вместо колышков используются рога яка. Такие палатки имеют всегда два входа, один |
| + | впереди и один сзади. Для размещения старшин несколько палаток могут быть соединены |
| + | вместе, чтобы образовать одну длинную большую комнату. Эти палатки обычно очень |
| + | просторны и позволяют нескольким семействам разместиться вместе. |
| + | |
| + | Мебель крайне примитивна. Ковры или шкуры редко используются для покрытия пола, и только |
| + | в богатых хозяйствах. Середина палатки занята одним или несколькими очагами. Долг |
| + | немощных и стариков – следить за огнем. Ни алтари, ни тибетские низкие столы не |
| + | встречаются в обычной палатке кочевника. Такую роскошь можно увидеть только в палатках |
| + | племенных вождей или богатых торговцев и лам. Обыкновенная жилая палатка заполнена |
| + | верховыми и вьючными седлами, мешками с маслом и цампой, шкурами и деревянными |
| + | маслобойками. |
| + | |
| + | Новорожденный ягненок и молодая овца живут в палатке со своими хозяевами. Семейная |
| + | постель – грязная куча овчин, сваленная в угол днем и расстеленная вокруг очага на ночь. |
| + | Наружная сторона палатки защищена низкими стенами из камней или, чаще, из сухого навоза. |
| + | Такая стена защищает ее от ветра и пыли, которая иначе легко проникала бы снизу. Летние |
| + | палатки старшин часто используются как палатки гостей для важных чиновников и |
| + | путешественников, они сделаны из белой ткани с синими и темно-красными узорами, нашитыми |
| + | на крышах. Узоры представляют восемь счастливых символов буддийского украшения, иногда |
| + | Колесо Закона или фигуры львов, умело соединенные с цветочным орнаментом. Мы уже видели, |
| + | что подобные палатки иногда используются в путешествиях цайдамскими монголами. Эти |
| + | гостевые палатки имеют иногда огромные размеры, и великолепная палатка, установленная |
| + | для Далай ламы во время путешествия Его Святейшества, как говорят, вмещала около трех |
| + | сотен лиц. Внутри такие гостевые палатки всегда снабжены дорогостоящими китайскими и |
| + | тибетскими коврами, белым войлоком, тюфяками и низкими столами, на которых стоят |
| + | тибетские чайные чашки со своими серебряными подставками и крышками. |
| + | |
| + | Большинство домашней работы выполняется женщинами, которые из молока коровы |
| + | приготавливают масло и тибетский сухой сыр, или чура, дубят кожи, и ткут тибетскую |
| + | грубую ткань. Мужчины обычно уходят с караванами, которые отправляются в летние месяцы |
| + | во Внутренний Тибет, чтобы заплатить правительству налог маслом, шерстью и домотканой |
| + | одеждой, и возвращаются поздней осенью, пока снег еще не перекрыл перевалы, с грузами |
| + | ячменя и цампы для зимы. Когда мужчины дома, они охраняют стада яков и овец, что отнюдь |
| + | не легкое дело на таких высотах. |
| + | |
| + | Привыкшая к тяжелой работе женщина часто сильнее физически мужчины и чрезвычайно |
| + | усердна. Тибетская женщина имеет хорошо известную по всему Тибету и гималайским штатам |
| + | Индии репутацию своей тяжелой работой. Она поднимается рано и зажигает огонь, приносит |
| + | воду, если ручей или река близко, но обычно использует снег из окрестных оврагов. В то |
| + | время как вода для чая будет закипать, домашняя хозяйка выходит присмотреть за стадами |
| + | яков и отарами овец. Овцы выгоняются из-за каменной ограды, за которой их содержат |
| + | холодной ночью под защитой тибетских собак. Тем временем глава семейства, если он |
| + | окажется дома, поднимается, набрасывает на свои голые плечи овчинный халат и садится на |
| + | свое место у огня. Вся семья, которая может состоять из нескольких семейств, живущих |
| + | вместе, или нескольких братьев, имеющих одну общую жену, поднимается и садится на |
| + | корточках у очага. Палатка заполняется громким бормотанием читающихся наизусть утренних |
| + | молитв. После возвращения домашней хозяйки пьют чай, бросая в деревянные чашки, |
| + | наполненные чаем, большие куски масла. Чаепитие продолжается некоторое время. Цампа |
| + | смешивается с чаем и затем скатывается в маленькие шарики, которые проглатываются. Более |
| + | аппетитное блюдо готовят из сухой цампы, смешанной с маслом хорошего качества и |
| + | тибетским сыром. Редко бывает, что находится свежее масло, которому у кочевников обычно |
| + | несколько месяцев, и оно испускает неприятный запах, который пропитывает палатку и |
| + | одежду ее обитателей. |
| + | |
| + | После утреннего чая каждый начинает ежедневную работу. Домохозяйка и другие женщины доят |
| + | коров, а мужчины идут по своим делам. Некоторые охотятся, другие пасут большие стада |
| + | домашних яков и лошадей. В области, кишащей разбойниками, пастух вооружен и перемещается |
| + | верхом на лошади. Он всегда готов к отпору любой попытки грабителей угнать стадо. Днем |
| + | женщины в лагере заняты пряжей, дублением кожи и исполнением другой домашней работы. |
| + | Вечером к закату все семейство собирается снова. Женщины приносят свежее молоко, и все |
| + | приступают к ужину, состоящему из того же самого чая, цампы и иногда холодной сырой |
| + | баранины. Потребление сырой баранины считается очень полезным. Каждый член семьи |
| + | получает баранью кость и срезает с нее ножом мясо. |
| + | |
| + | По окончании еды читаются вечерние молитвы, иногда зажигают ладан, привезенный из Лхасы. |
| + | Мужчины садятся на корточки на пол вокруг огня, рассказывают друг другу истории и |
| + | местные новости, привезенные проходящими караванами. Некоторые курят длинные китайские |
| + | трубки, привезенные из Тачиенлу и Синина. Если один из членов семьи умеет петь, он может |
| + | спеть древнюю балладу о Гесере, могущественном воинственном повелителе, который в |
| + | прошлом покорил Тибет, и его появление вновь ожидается в этом мире, чтобы установить |
| + | царство справедливости. Я помню эти сидящие на корточках фигуры, с лицами, на которых |
| + | играют отблески огня, говорящие до поздней ночи о прошлых героических подвигах короля |
| + | Гесера и его семи воинственных друзьях. Обычно унылое выражение кочевников внезапно |
| + | освещается тайным огнем, который передает вам лучше, чем слова, проблеск древнего |
| + | воинственного духа. Огонь догорает, и припадающие к земле фигуры мужчин, с головами, |
| + | склоненными низко к коленям, и пряди их длинных черных волос постепенно исчезают в |
| + | темноте. |
| + | |
| + | Трудная жизнь, которую ведут эти кочевники, поражает полным отсутствием у них |
| + | элементарного комфорта. Иногда кажется, что они рождены страдать за какие-то прошлые |
| + | грехи, и терпеливо переносят муки своего настоящего существования на холодных нагорьях |
| + | Тибета. Кочевник никогда не будет думать, где расположиться на ночь и вытянуть свои |
| + | утомленные члены. Наоборот, он будет подвергать себя испытанию сном в согнутом положении |
| + | на холодном, промерзшем полу палатки. Комфорт не существует для него. Я помню, видел |
| + | раненого милиционера-хорпа, перенесенного в палатку и положенного на землю. Его голова |
| + | лежала на остром крае медного котла. Я пробовал положить голову на тюфяк, но раненый |
| + | вернул ее на край котла. Казалось, что он был неспособен почувствовать даже момента |
| + | относительного удобства. Эта удивительная психология полна отрицания своего собственного |
| + | тела. |
| + | |
| + | Кочевники, составляющие большую часть населения Тибета, представляют самый вырождающийся |
| + | тип. Это особенно касается западной части кочевой страны и в высочайших горных долинах |
| + | Трансгималаев. Арктический климат тибетских нагорий и жизнь в высоких горных долинах, |
| + | часто на высоте от шестнадцати до семнадцати тысяч футов, задерживают их умственное и |
| + | физическое развитие. Низкий рост обычен среди них. Мужчины и женщины племен, живущих |
| + | вокруг Нагчу и в окрестностях Великих Озер, невысокие и коренастые, с выступающими |
| + | скулами и кудрявыми волосами. |
| + | |
| + | Кочевые племена Северо-Восточного Тибета и хорпы имеют более крепкое и более хорошее |
| + | телосложение. Среди них мы часто встречаем высоких людей с длинными, изящными чертами |
| + | лица. Женщины, за редким исключением, низкого роста, имеют широкие лица и выступающие |
| + | скулы. Это – интересный и непонятный факт, несмотря на то, что тип мужчины изменяется в |
| + | соответствии с местоположением племени, тип женщин остается одинаковым во всех областях |
| + | Тибета, заселенных кочевниками |
| + | |
| + | Иностранное происхождение хорпов проявлено в их наружности. Принимая во внимание, что |
| + | чангпы из региона Озер и горные племена Трансгималаев – главным образом все брахицефалы, |
| + | для хорпов общая черта – долихоцефалия. Часто обнаруживается тип с орлиным носом, |
| + | кавказскими глазами, средними губами и прямыми, слегка волнистыми волосами. |
| + | |
| + | Вообще говоря, среди хорпов наблюдается два отдельных типа: хорпы, живущие на север от |
| + | хребта Тангла и живущие южнее его. Среди первых мы часто встречаем кавказский тип, и |
| + | некоторые из мужчин похожи на европейцев. Среди женщин монголоидный тип с монголоидным |
| + | разрезом глаз более заметен |
| + | |
| + | Хорпы, обитающие южнее хребта Тангла, представляют переходный тип между хорпами, |
| + | живущими севернее от него, и круглоголовыми тибетцами центральных провинций. Южнее |
| + | хребта Тангла мы редко встречаем кавказские типы. Глаза в основном имеют монголоидную |
| + | форму, губы толсты, скулы выступающие, волосы курчавые. Цвет кожи северных хорпов |
| + | светлее, чем у хорпов, живущих южнее хребта Тангла, и обычно светло-коричневого цвета. |
| + | По росту хорпы, живущие к северу и северо-востоку от хребта Тангла, более высокие, чем |
| + | обитающие на нагорьях южнее великого горного массива. Хорпы к югу от Тангла имеют более |
| + | слабое телосложение. Грудь в большинстве случаев впалая, часто крайне недоразвитая. |
| + | |
| + | Довольно странное различие наблюдается в языках. Хорпы с севера говорят на своем |
| + | собственном диалекте, близко связанном с первобытным диалектом кочевников Тибета и |
| + | тяжело понимаемом тибетцами из Лхасы. В недавней работе по тибетской фонологии я показал |
| + | некоторые отличительные черты этих диалектов кочевников, их первобытные формы и много |
| + | характерных особенностей, наиболее поразительные из которых – произношение некоторых |
| + | приставок и звонкое произношение древних звонких согласных, которое стало глухим в |
| + | современном центральном тибетском. В словаре хорский диалект также очень отличается от |
| + | центрального тибетского. Поддиалект, на котором говорят хорпы на границах Нагчу, уже |
| + | сильно насыщен центральным тибетским диалектом, и, хотя он потерял произношение большого |
| + | количества приставок, все еще сохраняет звонкое произношение древних звонких согласных. |
| + | В лексиконе он также ближе к центральному тибетскому языку. Появляется впечатление, что |
| + | хорпы севернее хребта Тангла сохранили более чистый тип хорпов и что примесь иностранной |
| + | нетибетской крови в них больше, чем в их соотечественниках на юге, которые стали |
| + | полностью тибетцами. |
| + | |
| + | Нынешнее состояние нашего знания не позволяет сделать вывод об этнических сходствах |
| + | племен, кочевавших вдоль северной границы настоящего Тибета. Известный русский |
| + | исследователь Тибета и Центральной Азии Пржевальский цитирует своего местного |
| + | переводчика, который заявляет, что язык местных тибетцев севернее Нагчу (хорпов) подобен |
| + | лхасскому и очень отличается от тибетского в области Коко-нора. Этот великий русский |
| + | исследователь добавляет, что он был не в состоянии провести какие-либо лингвистические |
| + | исследования во время пребывания на тибетской границе. Фактически хорский диалект |
| + | северного Тангла имеет действительно большое количество поразительных подобий с |
| + | диалектом панагов области Коко-нора и Ньяронгвов Северо-Восточного Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Одежда универсальна для всех кочевых районов Тибета. Обычная одежда мужчин и женщин |
| + | хорпов самого бедного рода состоит из овчинной шубы. Иногда носят рубашку, но |
| + | большинство кочевников носят свою овчину на голом теле. Во время работы тяжелая и |
| + | неудобная шуба сбрасывается с правого плеча, которое остается голым. Мужчины часто |
| + | надевают большие домотканые штаны. Обувь состоит из высоких сапог, прикрепляющихся |
| + | подвязками под коленями. Голенища таких сапог обычно сделаны из грубой шерстяной |
| + | домотканой материи; подошва – из необработанной шкуры яка, и отделаны они волосами яка. |
| + | Иногда голенища мужских сапог делают из красной кожи. Кожа для сапог ввозится из |
| + | Чьен-чанга на юго-западе провинции Сычуань. Богатых старшин и лам можно иногда увидеть в |
| + | черных сапогах из воловьей кожи китайского производства и фасона. Монгольские сапоги |
| + | черной, желтой или красной кожи (главным образом импортированной из России), сшитые |
| + | узором из разноцветной кожи, очень ценятся и образуют одну из удачнейших статей |
| + | тибетского импорта. У лам низ сапог всегда красный, а верх – из белого хлопка. Шубу из |
| + | овчины хорпы обычно украшают кусочками сукна, нашитыми на спину и по краям шубы. Черный, |
| + | синий, темно-зеленый и фиолетовый – любимые цвета. Миряне предпочитают черный и темный |
| + | ультрамариновый, синий цвета, ламы имеют чаще всего темно-красные кусочки ткани, нашитые |
| + | на меховые шубы. |
| + | |
| + | Более богатый класс носит одежды, сделанные из пуру – тибетской хлопковой ткани высокого |
| + | качества, обычно украшенной фиолетовыми или темно-лиловыми цветами и очень высоко |
| + | ценимой в Тибете и Монголии. Такая ткань изготавливается крестьянами или кочевниками, |
| + | которых закон обязывает передавать все производимое количество местным правительственным |
| + | чиновникам, правительство продает ткань за установленные впоследствии цены и |
| + | экспортирует ее в чужие страны. В зимнее время мужчины носят тяжелые овчинные штаны. |
| + | Богатые носят еще китайские шелковые гамаши (тао-ку). Китайские жилеты (кан-чьен), |
| + | заимствованные городскими людьми центрального Тибета, никогда не носят кочевники, |
| + | которые предпочитают тибетский широкий с длинными рукавами чувас, или халат. Женщины |
| + | более богатых домашних хозяйств заимствовали тибетскую одежду и носят юбки из полосатого |
| + | пуру и большие блузы, сделанные из терма, или шелка. |
| + | |
| + | Большинство мужчин и женщин ходят с непокрытой головой. Только в путешествиях или во |
| + | время буранов они носят меховую шапку, покрытую синей или зеленой тканью и отделанную |
| + | шкурой лисы или овчиной. Некоторые из этих шапок имеют необычные размеры и на расстоянии |
| + | напоминают папаху, большую меховую шапку, используемую сибирскими казаками. В течение |
| + | снежных бурь украшенные мехом отвороты шапки опущены и застегнуты на пуговицы впереди, |
| + | оставляя свободными только глаза и закрывая остальное лицо. Это дает превосходную защиту |
| + | на продуваемых всеми ветрами нагорьях Северного Тибета. Во время зимних холодов 1927 |
| + | года мне удалось приобрести тибетскую меховую шапку, которая спасла меня от мучений. Мех |
| + | шапок лам окаймляется желтым шелком. |
| + | |
| + | Летняя шляпа сделана из соломы и покрыта хлопчатобумажной тканью, края облицованы |
| + | красной и синей тканью. Шляпа эта довольно высока и удерживается на голове завязкой под |
| + | подбородком. Многие носят обычные тибетские меховые шапки с меховыми отворотами, |
| + | покрытые войлоком сверху, украшенные кусочками парчи. Европейского изготовления |
| + | гамбургеры (мужские фетровые шляпы) и форменные шапки, используемые в гуркских |
| + | батальонах индийской армии, также обычно используют торговцы, которые посетили торговый |
| + | рынок на индийской границе. |
| + | |
| + | Прически разнообразны. Женщины заплетают волосы в многочисленные тонкие косы, которые |
| + | свисают вниз сзади, связанные вместе широким куском красной ткани с вышитым серебряным |
| + | орнаментом, состоящим главным образом из серебряных индийских рупий, китайских долларов |
| + | и тибетских серебряных монет. Девушки Хора носят маленькие медные колокольчики на поясе |
| + | и в волосах, и их движения сопровождаются мягким позвякиванием этих колокольчиков. |
| + | |
| + | Женский головной убор очень изменяется в соответствии с местоположением и племенем. В |
| + | области Нагтшанг в районе Великих Озер женщины носят специфическую овальную налобную |
| + | повязку, несколько напоминающую один из древних головных уборов, носимых русскими |
| + | женщинами. Он украшен бирюзой и серебром. В других местах в косы вплетают ракушки. И |
| + | женщины, и девушки обычно носят большие овальные серьги и многочисленные ожерелья из |
| + | кораллов, бирюзы и серебра. Женщина-кочевник носит все свои богатства на себе, и по |
| + | изобилию серебра и бирюзы можно судить о положении ее семьи. |
| + | |
| + | У мужчин обычно длинные спутанные волосы, иногда заплетенные в две длинные косы, которые |
| + | свисают вниз с обеих сторон лба. Над глазами волосы часто срезаны челкой. Вожди племен и |
| + | богатые владельцы стад носят косы, часто свисающие значительно ниже колена. Косы, в |
| + | которые вплетены конские волосы, чтобы сделать их более длинными и более толстыми, часто |
| + | украшены широкими кольцами из красной ткани с коралловым, бирюзовым и серебряным |
| + | орнаментом, а иногда и амулетницами, или га-у. |
| + | |
| + | Ламы бон-по из Хора бреют головы. Ламы-тантрики, или нгаг-па из секты желтых шапок, |
| + | которые живут и действуют среди хорпов, заплетают волосы в косы подобно мирянам. Богатые |
| + | носят шубу, подпоясанную узким кожаным ремнем, украшенным серебром или медью. К ремню на |
| + | цепочке у пояса вешают нож, тяжелый кисет, игольник, серебром украшенный футляр, |
| + | содержащий палочки для еды. |
| + | |
| + | Вооружение хорпов состоит из тибетских сабель, пик и современных магазинных винтовок. |
| + | Старый тибетский мушкет встречается очень редко и, насколько я знаю, используется только |
| + | в новогодних обрядах изгнания дьяволов. Кочевники всегда ходят вооруженными. Трудная и |
| + | опасная жизнь на Тибетском высокогорье делает это необходимым. Все мужчины носят длинные |
| + | сабли, которые напоминают европейское оружие раннего средневековья. Самые лучшие сабли |
| + | доставляют из провинции Кхам Восточного Тибета. Высокие цены предлагаются за известные |
| + | сабли, которыми погубили самое большое число врагов, на лезвиях которых еще можно |
| + | заметить кровь, поскольку сабли никогда не очищают после сражения и возвращают в ножны |
| + | запачканными кровью. Согласно тибетской бон-по легенде, оружие, носимое на портупее и |
| + | поясе, а также щиты появились в Тибете во времена распространения религии Бон из земель |
| + | Шанг-шунг и Бру-ша. |
| + | |
| + | Как в наших эпических средневековых поэмах, сабли тибетских героев наделяются именами. |
| + | Известные сабли ведут свое происхождение от так называемого Гесер лха-кханга, или замка |
| + | Гесера, расположенного вблизи Джекундо в Северо-Восточном Тибете. Упоминают, что после |
| + | завершения своих кампаний король Гесер внес все свое оружие в этот храм. Потолок храма |
| + | состоит из длинных сабель и копий вместо балок. Во время недавней китайско-тибетской |
| + | войны большое количество этих сабель было украдено тибетскими солдатами и теперь их |
| + | предлагают за баснословные цены. Сабли имеются трех видов. Длинные прямые тибетские |
| + | сабли с широким лезвием, сделанным из железа, можно рассматривать как национальное |
| + | оружие. Рукоятка сабли не имеет гарды и удивительно напоминает один из европейских мечей |
| + | раннего средневековья. Ножны обычно украшены серебряными или медными гвоздями, бирюзой и |
| + | кораллами. Они сделаны из дерева и покрыты черной кожей. Край ножен часто красиво |
| + | украшен цветочными узорами, комбинированными с животными мотивами. Рукоятки часто |
| + | покрыты рыбьей чешуей, иногда тонкой желтой или красной кожей. Было бы интересно изучить |
| + | происхождение такой длинной и широкой тибетской сабли. Изучение вопроса приведет к |
| + | длинным и прямым сарматским саблям, с которыми Китай познакомился во время первой |
| + | династии Хань. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме этих длинных сабель, тибетские кочевники носят короткий даггоподобный кинжал в |
| + | богато украшенных ножнах. Говорят, что лучшие дагги доставляют из Бутана. Их рукоятки |
| + | закрыты щитками. |
| + | |
| + | К третьей разновидности принадлежит тяжелая, слегка изогнутая сабля, или шоланг, носимая |
| + | на китайский манер с левой стороны седла под ногой наездника. Это оружие вероятнее всего |
| + | импортировано из Китая и используется только военными и гражданскими служащими. |
| + | |
| + | Другой любимый вид холодного оружия – пика. Используются два вида, длинная пика и |
| + | дротик. Длинная и тяжелая пика, около трех метров в длину, используется наездниками в |
| + | кавалерийской атаке. Острие сделано из железа и иногда украшено геометрическим рисунком, |
| + | раскрашенным красным цветом. Среди кочевых племен Северо-Восточного Тибета и хорпов |
| + | длинная пика – признак войны. Когда племя намеревается начать войну против другого |
| + | племени, длинную пику выносят из палатки |
| + | |
| + | Тибетский дротик сделан из твердого дерева, привезенного из Восточного Тибета или |
| + | Сычуаня. Древко копья обвивает железная тесьма. Большое металлическое кольцо закреплено |
| + | на конце древка и другое кольцо скользит свободно по древку. Во время боя веревка |
| + | связывает оба кольца. Наездник держит веревку и древко в поднятой руке, затем бросает |
| + | дротик, продолжая держать конец веревки в руке. Дротик летит с большим шумом, |
| + | производимым свободным кольцом, которое гремит, ударяясь о древко. После того, как |
| + | кольцо достигает конца древка и дротик падает, всадник тянет его обратно в седло. |
| + | Большая сила и хорошее искусство верховой езды необходимы для метания такого дротика. |
| + | Это оружие используется кочевниками Северного и Северо-Восточного Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Другое обычно используемое оружие – праща, сделанная из сплетенных нитей. Она |
| + | используется и во время войны, и во время мира. В повседневной жизни хорпы используют |
| + | пращу, чтобы вести свои стада и караваны яков. Один человек может вести большое стадо |
| + | или караван яков, швыряя камни своей пращой в животных Тибетское слово лакто (Тиб. |
| + | лаг-рдо) буквально означает «рука с камнем» |
| + | |
| + | Стрельба из лука почти никогда не применяется, и во время нашего пребывания среди племен |
| + | Хора и других кочевников Тибета мы не видели ни одного лука в употреблении Наконечники |
| + | стрел, иногда обнаруживаемые на земле, как говорят, являются окаменевшими молниями и |
| + | обладают магическими силами. |
| + | |
| + | Лассо, известное киргизским соплеменникам с русско-туркестанской границы, не известно |
| + | среди хорпов. Чтобы поймать лошадь, они применяют очень странный маневр, который |
| + | неизменно оказывается успешным. Человек ползет к лошади с рукой, вытянутой по |
| + | направлению к правой передней ноге животного. Затем он осторожно касается правой ноги и |
| + | растирает ее, постепенно продвигаясь выше, пока не достигнет шеи лошади и не набросит |
| + | узду. Этот удивительный способ ловли вредной лошади обычно практикуют по всей Монголии и |
| + | Тибету. С монгольскими или тибетскими лошадьми это единственный способ приблизиться и |
| + | овладеть животным. |
| + | |
| + | Общим бичом всех кочевых районов Тибета являются банды разбойников, которые бродят около |
| + | торговых путей и богатых стоянок. Иногда это банды профессиональных грабительских племен |
| + | из Северо-Восточного Тибета. Банда состоит из двадцати‑тридцати хорошо вооруженных |
| + | всадников с легким багажом, перевозимым на вьючных пони, которыми управляют всадники. |
| + | Отряд может покрывать ежедневно большие расстояния и совершать неожиданные нападения на |
| + | караваны и лагеря. Разбойничьи лошади, как говорят, – самые лучшие в стране. Они обучены |
| + | подчиняться странным пронзительным звукам, издаваемым наездником. По свисту всадника |
| + | лошадь удваивает шаг. Пронзительный, повышающийся звук заставляет лошадь перейти на |
| + | полный галоп. Такими лошадьми не могут управлять обычные наездники, которые не знают |
| + | управляющих звуков. |
| + | |
| + | Когда в окрестностях обнаруживается банда грабителей, все стоянки кочевников поспешно |
| + | перемещаются в горы, в какие-нибудь отдаленные долины, а вожди племен созывают всех |
| + | имеющихся в распоряжении людей ополчения. Наша экспедиция часто встречала большие отряды |
| + | всадников, мчащихся на большой скорости. Неподалеку были замечены грабители, и эти люди |
| + | торопились вступить в бой с бандой. |
| + | |
| + | Во время таких схваток пленных берут редко, а раненых никогда не оставляют на поле боя. |
| + | Разбойники даже ухитрялись уносить своих мертвых. В голодные годы, которые следуют за |
| + | холодными и снежными зимами, или после эпидемий и падежа скота, целые районы принимались |
| + | за разбой. Тогда на подавление направляли правительственные войска. |
| + | |
| + | Племенная милиция утверждена приказами правительства Лхасы. В случае войны каждая |
| + | палатка должна снарядить одного наездника и дать ему достаточно провизии, чтобы хватило |
| + | на одномесячный поход. Вооружение, боеприпасы и лошадь человек должен иметь свои. Приказ |
| + | о мобилизации посылается на куске красной ткани, привязанной к стреле. Стрела |
| + | отправляется с особым наездником, который скачет галопом к ближайшему вождю и вручает |
| + | ему эту стрелу. Вождь берет извещение, содержащее приказ, и немедленно посылает нового |
| + | наездника к другому вождю. Через несколько дней вся округа кишит тяжеловооруженными |
| + | всадниками. Отряды из Северного и Северо-Восточного Тибета, как упоминается, являются |
| + | самыми храбрыми во всем Тибете, и там верят, что воин из Восточного и Северного Тибета |
| + | всякий раз, когда бы он ни пошел сражаться, должен умереть в бою. В недавних боях на |
| + | китайско-тибетской границе части, собранные из племен Северного и Восточного Тибета, |
| + | сделали свои имена ужасающими для противников, но понесли тяжелейшие потери. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме военных обязанностей во время национальной угрозы милиция племен несет охрану |
| + | обширной тибетской границы. Везде по северной тибетской границе, которая проходит через |
| + | горы Марко Поло, или Ангар Дакчин, стоят милицейские заставы, которые наблюдают за |
| + | караванными путями из Монголии и Китая. Такая застава обычно состоит от шести до десяти |
| + | человек, которые живут в черной кочевой палатке. Их обязанность – разведывать |
| + | окрестности и сообщать ближайшим пограничным властям о приближении караванов. Можно |
| + | вообразить жизнь на таких заставах, расположенных иногда за сотни миль от самого |
| + | близкого населенного пункта Тибета и на высоте около пятнадцати-шестнадцати тысяч футов. |
| + | Людям приходится жить на цампе и охотиться на диких яков и куланов. Зимой такие заставы |
| + | иногда полностью отрезаны. Много всадников, посланных восстановить связь, погибают в |
| + | пути, съедаемые волками и медведями. |
| + | |
| + | Кочевые племена Северо-Восточного, Северного и некоторые из племен Западного Тибета, |
| + | практикуют древнюю религию Тибета, именуемую Бон – поклонение природе, и некромантию. |
| + | Таинственные ритуалы выполняют дикого вида странствующие священники, одетые в черные |
| + | одежды. Бон известна в Западном Хоре и удерживает бесспорное влияние во всех хорских |
| + | племенах. С появлением и учреждением буддизма во времена господства тибетского короля |
| + | Ти-сронг деуцена (Хри-сронг сдеу-бцан) в восьмом веке нашей эры, религия Бон была |
| + | изгнана в отдаленные пограничные районы Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | В настоящее время большинство колоний бон-по находятся на северо-востоке Тибета, в |
| + | области, лежащей между Дерге и пастбищными землями голоков, в дальневосточном Кхаме, в |
| + | лесном районе Конг-по. Вдоль северного пути в Западный Тибет, как упоминает Наин Сингх, |
| + | есть колония бон-по Ванг-по (дбанг-по) на северном берегу озера Дангра юм-тшо. В |
| + | Западном и Южном Тибете также есть значительные колонии бон-по. Провинция Цанг |
| + | Центрального Тибета богата монастырями бон-по, которые находятся также на границе |
| + | Непала. Монастырь бон-по, самый близкий к Лхасе, расположен в верхней части Фем-по |
| + | (фан-по) долины, севернее тибетской столицы. |
| + | |
| + | Во времена господства короля Лангдарма (девятый век) религия бон стала государственной |
| + | на короткое время. После насильственной смерти короля она снова стала преследуемой, а |
| + | буддизм – господствующим. Священники были высланы, и большинство их действий |
| + | пресекалось. Начиная с того времени, религия Бон стала доктриной меньшинства и была |
| + | вытеснена на отдаленные нагорья, она сохранилась только в немногих семействах, чаще в |
| + | провинции Цанг. |
| + | |
| + | Наше знание религии бон все еще очень недостаточно. Только очень ограниченное количество |
| + | текстов было отредактировано и переведено. Остальная обширная литература все еще |
| + | остается закрытой книгой. Терминология бон-по представляет непреодолимые трудности, |
| + | трудно добиться услуг хорошо начитанного священника бон-по, который согласился бы |
| + | поделиться своим знанием доктрины. Собрать информацию об этой первобытной религии – |
| + | пережитке отдаленного прошлого – труднее, чем о формах тибетского буддизма. Прежде всего |
| + | общины бон обнаружены в труднодоступных местах, и, во-вторых, знатоки бон-по упорно не |
| + | хотят предоставлять информацию иностранцу. Они обычно притворяются невежественными |
| + | относительно принципов их веры и отрицают существование рукописных или напечатанных |
| + | текстов. |
| + | |
| + | Во время пребывания экспедиции в Хоре, информация относительно книг бон-по была получена |
| + | только от путешественников, которые посетили их монастыри или видели священные тексты в |
| + | палатках богатых последователей бон-по. Только после трехмесячного пребывания я сумел |
| + | завоевать доверие некоторых из священников бон-по и получить доступ в их библиотеки. |
| + | |
| + | Последующие страницы содержат некоторые выдержки из материалов, полученных во время |
| + | этого пребывания. Детальное изучение доктрины бон будет добавлено к переводу «Йе-шес |
| + | ни-ма лхай ргьюд», или «Тантры богов солнечной мудрости», обширного бон-по-текста, |
| + | который находится в подготовке. |
| + | |
| + | Бон – сложная доктрина, в которой древние формы шаманских идей верхней Азии смешаны с |
| + | верованиями и культами религии природы первобытного населения Северо-Западной Индии. |
| + | Либо этот примитивный культ идет обратно к индо-европейской старине, либо, как я |
| + | полагаю, к доарийским слоям населения – все еще невозможно решить определенно. |
| + | |
| + | Существуют две формы бон: одна примитивного поклонения природе, полная шаманистских и |
| + | некромантических ритуалов, а иногда и кровавых жертвоприношений (в прежнее время были |
| + | человеческие жертвоприношения, в настоящее время только животные: овцы, козы либо в |
| + | жертву приносятся заменяющие их глиняные изображения); другая – преобразованная бон, или |
| + | бон, приспособленная к буддизму. Доктор Дж. ван Манен справедливо указал на связь, |
| + | которая существует между древней бон и старой школой Падмасамбхавы. Он сообщает: |
| + | |
| + | «Это утверждение должно быть интерпретировано в смысле, что компромисс, произведенный |
| + | Падмасамбхавой, привел к взаимным уступкам и адаптации, которые делают затруднительным |
| + | сообщить, где в настоящих культах начинаются и кончаются чисто природные и иностранные |
| + | буддистские элементы». |
| + | |
| + | В первой форме бон мы встречаем богов неба и земли, солнца и луны, звезд и четырех стран |
| + | света. К этой форме бон принадлежит цикл легенд о короле Гесере, и доктор А.Х.Франке |
| + | показал в своей ценной монографии по тибетским брачным песням мифологический характер |
| + | Гесера и его супруги Бругумы, которые имеют близкую связь со старыми божествами земли. |
| + | Первобытную доктрину бон все еще представляют странствующие заклинатели, которые никогда |
| + | не принадлежат к оседлым общинам. Их святые места не отмечены монастырями или часовнями, |
| + | но представлены алтарями из грубых камней или каменными памятниками в форме менгира или |
| + | кромлеха. Иногда каменные алтари расположены на вершинах гор, иногда в уединенных |
| + | пещерах среди скал и высоких пиков. Я убежден, что мегалитовые памятники, обнаруженные |
| + | экспедицией вдоль всех маршрутов паломников к горе Кайласа, являются именно такими |
| + | священными местами природного поклонения. Детальное описание этих памятников будет дано |
| + | в главе, посвященной области Великих Озер Тибета. Эти мегалитовые памятники, менгиры, |
| + | кромлехи и линии, впервые обнаруженные экспедицией, несомненно, принадлежат к |
| + | добуддистскому периоду тибетской истории, когда первобытная бон была общепринятой верой |
| + | в стране. |
| + | |
| + | Преобразованная бон чрезвычайно сложна. Она не только содержит всех божеств Ваджраяны, |
| + | или тантрической формы буддизма, разработанной Падмасамбхавой, но имеет собственный ряд |
| + | божеств. |
| + | |
| + | Из моих бесед с ламами бон-по выяснилось, что в форме бон Самантаб-хадра, или Бон-ску |
| + | Кун-тун бзанг-по, почитается высшим божеством бон-по. Он занимает в секте положение, |
| + | аналогичное Самантабхадре в тантрических сектах нереформированного буддизма и Ади-Буддха |
| + | в доктрине Калачакры девятого-одиннадцатого веков нашей эры. Мы имеем причины считать, |
| + | что Кун-ту бзанг-по, или «Всеблагой» реформированной бон, представляет древнего |
| + | Небесного Отца примитивной бон. В боне Кун-ту бзанг-по ассоциируется с Ма-бцун-па – |
| + | Матерью Природой, или Матерью Землей, божеством, которое все еще сохраняет большинство |
| + | из ее первобытного характера всемогущей Матери Земли. Ее изображения часто находят в |
| + | амулетницах, или га-у, которые носят бон-по. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме этих высших божеств мы знаем о множестве других божественных существ, большинство |
| + | которых являются олицетворениями сил природы и злобных духов. Старинное божество – |
| + | Гаруда, или Ча-хьюнг (Бья-кхьюнг), которое фигурирует на многих изображениях и картинах |
| + | бон, и, вероятно, принадлежит древнему индо-тибетскому стволу бон. Было бы чрезвычайно |
| + | интересно изучить происхождение культа Гаруды в связи с многочисленными изображениями |
| + | орла и грифа в искусстве кочевников Центральной Азии и Южной России. На фресках бон мы |
| + | встречаем бесконечное множество дкар-фьог лха – «Богов Белой Стороны» (или |
| + | «благосклонных богов») и наг-фьог лха, или «Богов Темной Стороны» (злобные божества). |
| + | Вера в природные силы, олицетворяемые божественными существами, или лха, приняты в обеих |
| + | формах бон. Каждое место обладает своим собственным богом местности, или юл-лха, и дре, |
| + | или демоном. Лха бывает обычно благожелательным, но иногда с тяжелым характером, и люди |
| + | этого места переживают тяжелое время, пытаясь сохранить благоволение божества. |
| + | |
| + | В одной из деревень бон-по в верхней провинции Цанг мы видели прекрасное поле на речном |
| + | берегу, необработанное, но тщательно огороженное. Принимая во внимание относительный |
| + | недостаток пахотной земли, я был очень изумлен, видя, что прекрасный кусок земли |
| + | оставлен необработанным, и спросил о причине. Причина была в том, что местный лха, |
| + | проживающий на скале, возвышающейся над полем, воздействовал странным образом на этот |
| + | участок, и, когда бы ни пытались его вспахать крестьяне, град и ураган уничтожали посев. |
| + | Местный священник бон-по объяснил желание божества, и с тех пор участок был оставлен в |
| + | покое и огорожен каменной стеной. Таково влияние этой религии, что люди откажутся от |
| + | самого лучшего из своих полей и посвятят его местному божеству. |
| + | |
| + | Каждый горный перевал обладает своим собственным лха, и некоторые из этих божеств |
| + | известны своим жестоким характером. Некоторые из них возражают против стрельбы из ружья |
| + | и будут посылать град и ураган, если пытаются стрелять поблизости, другие враждебны к |
| + | путешественникам вообще. |
| + | |
| + | Дуд, или дре – злобные духи, всегда готовые навредить. Ночью они далеко уводят лошадей, |
| + | таким образом задерживая путешественников. Некоторые местности с большими караванными |
| + | маршрутами известны деятельностью демонов, или тонг-дре, и люди каравана особо |
| + | предусмотрительны, чтобы предотвратить паническое бегство своих лошадей и мулов. |
| + | |
| + | Все эти бонские божества, управляющие судьбами людей, обозначены общим названием |
| + | гьюнг-друнг лха рнам, или «боги свастики». Слово гьюнг-друнг, или «свастика», не только |
| + | синоним бон, но часто стоит за Бьянг-чуб, или Бодхи, который просвещен в терминологии |
| + | бон. Желание и поучения этих богов были переданы человечеству учителем Шенрапом, или |
| + | Шен-рап ми-во – «Человек Шенрап». Мы видели несколько текстов бон-по о жизни этого |
| + | учителя. На его легендарную жизнь сильно повлияла легенда о Будде. Возьмите, например, |
| + | сцену жалобы старого брахмана гСал-кхьяб-од-лдана, как рассказано в гСар-мйиг, что он |
| + | слишком стар, чтобы услышать будущее учение новорожденного Спасителя, и аналогичный |
| + | эпизод из жизни Будды – посещение риши Аситы новорожденного Бодхисаттвы. |
| + | |
| + | История юноши Шенрапа имеет много общего с соответствующими эпизодами легенды о Будде. |
| + | Работа Спасителя Шенрапа была продолжена на земле рядом учителей, которые обычно |
| + | представлены на фресках одетыми в монашеские одежды Нйинг-ма-пы, или нереформированного |
| + | буддизма. Мы пока еще в состоянии сообщить многое относительно этого ряда учителей |
| + | бон-по. Похоже, что хозяйство монастырской общины бон было начато только во время |
| + | буддистского периода. Примитивная религия бон не имела никаких монастырей. Бонский |
| + | монастырь – адаптация модели буддизма и правил монастырей – в значительной степени взяты |
| + | из буддистских источников. Большие монастыри бон-по существуют в провинции Джяде и на |
| + | северо-востоке Кхама. Область Нуп-хор насчитывает три монастырских хозяйства. |
| + | |
| + | Провинция Цанг известна своими монастырями бон-по. В Чату-гомпа, большой деревне в |
| + | Западном Цанге, имеются три больших монастыря бон-по. Сообщают, что несколько известных |
| + | бонских монастырей и жилищ отшельников, или ри-то (ри-кхрод), существуют на |
| + | непало-тибетской границе. Сарат Чандра Дас в своей «Поездке в Лхасу и Центральный Тибет» |
| + | дает краткое описание хорошо известного монастыря бон-по, Ри-джьял чен-тар (Ри-ргьял |
| + | гчан-дар), который посетил его спутник лама Ургьен. К сожалению, автор не дает подробных |
| + | описаний изображений и фресок, увиденных ламой Ургьеном в монастыре. Мы обладаем очень |
| + | скудной информацией о литературе бон-по. Литературные памятники бон-по могут быть |
| + | традиционно описаны по следующим четырем разделам: (1) два больших собрания священных |
| + | текстов бон, всего около трех сотен томов; (2) национально-эпические героические песни и |
| + | некоторые рнам-тхары, или легендарные истории; (3) популярные песни; (4) колдовские |
| + | книги, руководства по магическим ритуалам. |
| + | |
| + | Кодификация бонской доктрины и создание многотомной религиозной литературы датируются с |
| + | буддистского периода, то есть после девятого столетия нашей эры. Пока мы не имеем |
| + | никаких знаний о существовании бонских Канджура и Танджура. Мы только предполагаем, что |
| + | большие бон-по монастыри несомненно обладали большими библиотеками литературы бон-по. |
| + | Нашей экспедиции посчастливилось обнаружить два полных собрания их священных писаний в |
| + | Шаругонском бон-по-монастыре, в четырех днях северо-восточнее Нагчу дзонга. Бонский |
| + | Канджур, или истолкование заповедей, состоит из ста сорока больших томов. Собрание это – |
| + | явная имитация буддистской Трипитаки. Она не только имеет тройное разделение Трипитаки |
| + | (бонсде-гсум), но и подражает буддистскому Кан-джуру во внешней классификации томов и их |
| + | содержания. Заглавие каждого текста дается на двух языках. Иногда это на Шанг-шунг скад, |
| + | или «язык Шанг-шунга», иногда это гьюнг-другн лхаи скад, или «язык богов свастики». Все |
| + | эти языки непонятны и вероятно искусственны. |
| + | |
| + | Тибетский язык неизменно назван «язык людей» (ганг-заг ми-вои скад или ми-вои скад). |
| + | Большинство текстов обозначены названиями ргьюд, или тантра, которые, видимо, |
| + | представляют буддистские мдо, или сутры. Большинство текстов, включенных в Канджур |
| + | бон-по, были составлены на голокской территории Северо-Восточного Тибета. Многие были |
| + | написаны в жилищах бонских отшельников юго-западнее Шигадзе, которая, как предполагают, |
| + | была одной из священных стран бон. При жизни известного тибетского монаха-поэта Миларепы |
| + | (XI в.) бон-по были многочисленны и влиятельны в районе непальской границы, и там |
| + | существует большой цикл легенд, рассказывающих о религиозных спорах между Миларепой и |
| + | бонским учителем Наро Бон-чунгом. |
| + | |
| + | Бонский Танджур, или толкование комментариев, состоит из ста шестидесяти томов. Он |
| + | содержит комментарии, написанные различными учителями бон-по на тантры бонского |
| + | Канджура, как говорят, есть откровения Шенрапа, Спасителя. Многие тексты объясняют |
| + | запутанные пункты сущности бонской доктрины (бон-нид), понятия, которые имеют точную |
| + | копию в стонг-па нид буддизма махаяны. |
| + | |
| + | Эти трактаты почти непереводимы из-за их терминологии. Как мне сообщил служитель |
| + | Шаругонского монастыря, напечатанных копий бонских священных писаний не существует, и |
| + | все существующие копии – рукописные. Особая копия, находящаяся в Шаругонском монастыре, |
| + | была выполнена на голокской территории и представляет собой исключительно красивый |
| + | рукописный подлинник. Орфография таких манускриптов, как правило, устарелая и показывает |
| + | много особенностей, общих в тибетских рукописях, обнаруженных сэром Аурелом Стейном и |
| + | Полом Пеллиотом в замурованной библиотеке Тунь хуана. Манускрипты бон-по часто написаны |
| + | золотом и серебром на толстой черной бумаге, но обычно черными или красными чернилами. В |
| + | Шаругонской копии передние страницы, имеющие заглавие текста, были неизменно окрашены |
| + | черным и написаны золотом. Такая рукопись, написанная золотом, дорогостоящая и требует |
| + | годы на изготовление. Только очень немногие бон монастыри могут гордиться обладанием |
| + | наборов обоих собраний. |
| + | |
| + | Второй класс бонской литературы представлен легендами кочевников о короле Гесере, |
| + | могущественном воине, объединенными в шестнадцати томах. Все копии этой важной работы |
| + | находятся в рукописях. Насколько известно, она никогда не издавалась, а существующие |
| + | копии ревностно хранятся в семьях. Для кочевников Восточного и Северного Тибета легенда |
| + | о Гесере не является просто эпической поэмой, это их религия, их воплощенная надежда на |
| + | лучшее будущее, которое представляет собой выражение славного прошлого. |
| + | |
| + | Современная эпическая поэма о Гесере – сложное художественное произведение, |
| + | заключающееся в древнем культе, в котором почитание Солнца, Луны, Звезд и времен года |
| + | сливаются с эпической поэмой великого воина-царя, правившего когда-то в Северо-Восточном |
| + | Тибете. |
| + | |
| + | Грюнведель и Потанин пытались доказать, что на сказание о Гесере оказали влияние легенды |
| + | об Александре Великом, так популярные на Востоке, что имя Гесер было не чем иным, как |
| + | тибетским переложением слова Кайзер-Цезарь. По моему мнению, баллада – автохтонное |
| + | творение кочевников Центральной Азии, и я полагаю, что доктор Н.Поппе прав в |
| + | предположении, что большая часть баллады рождена среди кочующих племен Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Историческая основа легенды уводит нас далеко назад, в прошлое огромной империи |
| + | кочевников Центральной Азии. Эпическая поэма о Гесере воспевает деяния короля Гесера, |
| + | его доблесть и ловкость в юные годы и несколько его победоносных походов против царя |
| + | Хора и других вождей кочевников. Восточный тибетский источник эпической поэмы показан в |
| + | истории о ее происхождении. История, вероятно, началась среди лам Желтой секты, т.к. она |
| + | показывает определенную долю презрения к балладе. Установлено, что баллада о Гесере не |
| + | имеет в себе ничего исторического. Она была создана известным ламой-тантриком (нгаг-па), |
| + | который был одновременно великим бардом. Однажды в момент вдохновения он начал петь и |
| + | спел всю балладу о Гесере. Местом рождения этого тантрика был северо-восток Кхама и |
| + | баллада была сложена там. |
| + | |
| + | Кочевники Кхама и Хора воспринимают балладу по-разному. С их точки зрения, это не |
| + | творение одного барда, являющееся преимущественно плодом воображения певца, но является |
| + | поэтическим описанием древних войн, которые велись в прошлом. Согласно некоторым авторам |
| + | и собранию героических песен, озаглавленному рГьял-друнг, король Гесер жил в восьмом |
| + | веке. Согласно другим преданиям, король Гесер был могущественным воином-кочевником, |
| + | который жил во времена царя Сронг-бцан-сгам-по и Кри-сронг лдеу-бцан в стране, |
| + | граничащей с Монголией и Китаем, на территории, включенной в современную провинцию |
| + | Шаньси. |
| + | |
| + | Седьмой и восьмой века нашей эры были периодом большого волнения среди тибетских |
| + | кочевников и эпохой величайших завоеваний тибетского государства за пределами границ. |
| + | Мои собственные исследования в этой области убедили меня, что ядро баллады возникло в |
| + | течение этого периода и в него вошли эпизоды древних племенных эпических поэм, уходящих |
| + | в далекую старину, вероятно, домонгольского и дотибетского происхождения. В настоящем |
| + | виде баллада о Гесере, вероятно, сравнительно позднего времени. Это древний памятник |
| + | поэзии кочевников, созданный творческими усилиями нескольких народностей. В ее настоящем |
| + | виде баллада чрезвычайно популярна в Монголии и даже среди тюркских племен центральной |
| + | Азии. Доктор Н.Поппе говорит, что монгольская версия баллады произошла из Южной |
| + | Монголии. Согласно ему, большое количество тибетских названий в монгольском тексте, |
| + | вероятно, показывают, что монгольская версия является переводом с тибетского подлинника. |
| + | Монгольская версия была опубликована в Пекине в 1716 г. во времена царствования |
| + | Канг-си и была переведена И.Дж. Шмидтом |
| + | |
| + | Во времена правления Манчу Гесер под именем Хуанг-ти был провозглашен божественным |
| + | защитником династии. В Тибете все храмы посвящались Хуанг-ти и, как говорят, были |
| + | лха-кхангами Гесера, или храмами Гесера. |
| + | |
| + | В Азиатском музее Русской Академии наук есть тибетская баллада о Гесере в двух больших |
| + | томах. Во время пребывания экспедиции в районе Хора я обнаружил балладу о Гесере в |
| + | шестнадцати рукописных томах – каждая глава эпической поэмы помещена в отдельный том. |
| + | |
| + | В Тибете и Монголии эпическая поэма о Гесере все еще постоянно обогащается новыми |
| + | песнями и эпизодами. Новые эпизоды добавляются к старой основе баллады, и мессианские |
| + | идеи присоединяются к образу Гесер- хана. Говорят, что Гесер возвратится снова на землю |
| + | и поведет племена против могущественного врага, который поднимется, чтобы установить |
| + | царство дьявола. |
| + | |
| + | Во время длительного пребывания среди хорских кочевников экспедиции удалось собрать |
| + | дополнительные данные, которые четко устанавливают важный факт, что почти написана новая |
| + | глава многотомной эпической поэмы о Гесере. В Монголии находится в процессе создания |
| + | новая глава о будущих подвигах Гесера. Эти новые добавления имеют характер пророческих |
| + | песен. |
| + | |
| + | Известный монгольский ученый Ц.Дж.Джамсарано указывает на факт, что устная версия баллад |
| + | о Гесере значительно шире, чем письменный вариант. Кажется, что кочевые племена Монголии |
| + | и Тибета, взволнованные каким-то скрытым беспокойством, ищут вдохновения в древних |
| + | преданиях своего прошлого. |
| + | |
| + | Говорят, что кроме великой эпической поэмы о Гесере среди населения бон-по существуют |
| + | несколько рнам-тхар, или легендарных историй. Ни одна из них не напечатана. Если они |
| + | будут найдены, то представят важные данные религиозного, культурного и исторического |
| + | развития бонской доктрины. Среди бон-по существует большое количество популярных песен. |
| + | Доктор А.Х.Франке собрал многие из них во время своего длительного пребывания в Ладаке и |
| + | Лахуле. Должным образом изученные и проанализированные, они также могут открыть важные |
| + | факты. |
| + | |
| + | Большое количество книг заклинаний и магических руководств существуют в рукописных |
| + | вариантах. Некоторые из них совершенно непереводимы, другие требуют обширного детального |
| + | знания пантеона бон-по. Для надлежащего понимания этих текстов необходимо знание мандал |
| + | бон-по, или мистических сфер влияния. |
| + | |
| + | Для изучения реформированного бон, бонские Канджур и Танджур имеют крайне важное |
| + | значение. Три сохранившихся раздела в основном содержат материал для реконструкции |
| + | первоначальной формы бон. Единственный, насколько известно от Сарат Чандра Даса, текст |
| + | об истории бон-по «рГьял-рабс Бон-гьи-бьюнг-гнас», но мне сообщили, что существуют и |
| + | другие исторические работы в форме чос-бьюнг, или историй церкви. Пока ни одна из таких |
| + | работ не стала известной. |
| + | |
| + | Бонский монастырь Шаругон построен около двадцати лет назад. Необходимые средства были |
| + | собраны народными взносами среди пяти кочевых племен Западного Хора. Он расположен в |
| + | узком ущельи из гранитных скал на берегах реки Чу-на-кхе, у подножия живописной |
| + | гранитной горы, которая защищает монастырь от преобладающих на Тибетском нагорье |
| + | юго-западных ветров. |
| + | |
| + | Подход к монастырю охраняет высокая ступа, или мчодртен, увенчанная парой ячьих рогов. |
| + | (Известно, что традиция установки черепов и рогов животных на мендонгах, каменных |
| + | пирамидах и ступах по своему происхождению относится к бон-по). Ступа окрашена в белый |
| + | цвет и имеет желтые, красные и синие полосы на своем шпиле, отображая в символической |
| + | форме три сферы Вселенной: стан-лха – область богов, бар-бцан – средняя область и |
| + | гьог-клу – местопребывание Нагов. |
| + | |
| + | Монастырь состоит из двух залов собрания, или ду-кхангов, расположенных в маленьком |
| + | закрытом дворе, вымощенном большими одинаковыми каменными плитами. Старый ду-кханг |
| + | представляет собой двухэтажное здание и расположен направо от входных ворот. Сам зал |
| + | собрания занимает первый этаж, а на втором этаже находится маленький лха-кханг, или |
| + | храм, который содержит большую часть собрания монастырских изображений |
| + | |
| + | Новый ду-кханг – величественное каменное здание, построенное около шести лет назад. Оно |
| + | еще не полностью завершено. Стены украшены фресками, которые, хотя и новые, представляют |
| + | большой интерес для изучающих иконографию. Остальная часть монастырского двора занята |
| + | складскими помещениями и монашескими кельями. Во время посещения экспедиции в монастыре |
| + | было пять постоянно проживающих монахов. |
| + | |
| + | Некоторые из зажиточных монахов монастыря проживали со своими семействами поблизости. |
| + | Главный лама, или кхан-по, единственный полностью посвященный в духовный сан монах, жил |
| + | не в монастыре, а в отшельническом жилище, или ри-то, принадлежащем монастырю и |
| + | находящимся за горным хребтом, который защищает монастырь с северо-востока. Оба |
| + | ду-кханга, или зала собрания, украшены в обычном тибетском стиле, и имеется очень |
| + | небольшое различие между украшениями, используемыми у ортодоксальных желтошапочников, |
| + | или монастырями Ньингма, и святилищами бон-по. |
| + | |
| + | Резные деревянные колонны на входе и внутри залов украшены традиционными драконами и |
| + | цветочными узорами и окрашены в яркие цвета. Оба ду-кханга содержат картины, |
| + | представляющие легендарную жизнь основателя бонской религии Шенрап тон-па, и изображения |
| + | божественных существ пантеона бон-по. Существует столь полное подобие символов, что |
| + | можно вообразить себя в ортодоксальном буддистском монастыре. Буддисты считают, что |
| + | бон-по переняли буддистские изображения и символы, но представители бон-по |
| + | придерживаются мнения, что ранние учителя тибетского буддизма приняли большое количество |
| + | богов и символов бон-по. В настоящее время мы не в состоянии определить, которое из |
| + | утверждений истинно. |
| + | |
| + | Сходство бонской и буддистской живописи приписывают в некоторой степени тому факту, что |
| + | храмы часто украшаются мирскими художниками, которые рисуют буддистские и бонские |
| + | символы и изображения подобными и невольно передают буддистские символы в бон-по |
| + | живописи и наоборот. Именно так случилось и с настенными картинами в Шаругонском |
| + | монастыре. Картины были выполнены мирским художником, буддистом по вероисповеданию, |
| + | который раскрашивал фрески под руководством главного ламы монастыря. |
| + | |
| + | Священные писания бон известны не полностью, и очень мало бонских изображений изучены и |
| + | описаны. До сих пор не найдено иконографического руководства по бон-по, и знания |
| + | иконографии секты остались, похоже, только у весьма ограниченного количества священников |
| + | и художников. |
| + | |
| + | Главное место на этих настенных картинах занимает бон-по Спаситель – Шенрап ми-во. Он |
| + | обычно представлен в аспекте полностью просветленного Будды, облаченного в пурпурные |
| + | монашеские одежды, простые и суровые, лишенные всяких украшений. Его левая рука покоится |
| + | в знаке (мудре) медитации (дхьяни-мудра) и поддерживает монашескую чашку, или патру. Его |
| + | правая рука опущена в знаке свидетельства (бхумиспарша мудра) и держит бонский скипетр. |
| + | Скипетр подобен буддистской ваджре или дордже, но вместо венца на каждом конце он имеет |
| + | куб с изображениями свастики на пяти сторонах куба. Тело его цвета желтой охры, одежда |
| + | красная или пурпурная, иногда украшена золотом или желтым цветочным орнаментом. Подобие |
| + | с изображениями Сакьямуни очевидно, и единственным различием является скипетр бон-по. |
| + | Слева от Основателя обычно представлен будущий учитель бон-по. Он изображен в одежде |
| + | буддистского бодхисаттвы с золотой диадемой на голове и золотым орнаментом, |
| + | инкрустированным драгоценными камнями, на плечах, руках и ногах. Обе руки находятся в |
| + | позе медитации и держат чашу, или це-бум, полную амриты, или бдуд-рцу, с буквой «А» на |
| + | ней, которое является бонским синонимом «ОМ». Лицо и тело цвета желтой охры, иногда |
| + | золотые. Это цвет бодхисаттвы Майтрейи. Справа часто можно видеть бонскую форму Будды |
| + | Врачевания, названной в бон-по Сангс-ргьяс сМан-бла. Цвет тела вместо темно-синего |
| + | ультрамарина, как в буддистских изображениях, светло-желтый. «Бог врачевания» бон-по не |
| + | имеет аспекта Будды, но одет как бодхисаттва. Его руки находятся в позе медитации и |
| + | держат монашескую чашку с цветком удумбары, появляющимся из нее. |
| + | |
| + | Другое общее изображение настенных росписей – бонская копия белой Тары, богиня |
| + | Ма-бцун-ра, Мать Природа. Ее поднятая правая рука держит стебель цветка кумуды. Во всех |
| + | других отношениях изображения бон-по и буддистских богинь идентичны. Бон-по форма |
| + | Всемилосердного, или Авалокитешвары, с одиннадцатью головами и бесчисленными руками |
| + | идентична ламаистской форме. Только одна из рук держит бонскую ваджру с изображением |
| + | свастики. |
| + | |
| + | Часто изображается богиня Ситатапатрапараджиты. Ее бонская форма имеет желтое тело |
| + | вместо окрашенного белым буддистского изображения. Символы, которые держит богиня в |
| + | своих многочисленных руках, подобны изображениям на буддистских картинах, кроме одной |
| + | руки, которая держит бонскую ваджру с изображенной на ней свастикой. Пара рук сложена на |
| + | груди и держит изображение плода, из которого прорастает цветок. (Буддистская богиня |
| + | держит священный камень, или чинтамани.) |
| + | |
| + | Еще одно популярное божество пантеона бон-по – черная Гаруда, или Кхьюнг-наг, изображена |
| + | держащей в клюве змею. Эта форма Гаруды также известна в ламаизме, но, вероятно, имеет |
| + | бонское происхождение. Одна из стен основного зала в новом ду-кханге украшена огромным |
| + | изображением бон-по формы Ваджрапани, держащего Гаруду и ваджру. Священник, или хан-по, |
| + | Шаругонского монастыря назвал его Бон-гьи фьяг-рдор, или бон-по Ваджрапани. Он не мог |
| + | сообщить мне бонское название божества. Трудно сказать, то ли мы имеем дело с |
| + | невежеством части духовенства бон-по, то ли бонские божества названы теми же именами, |
| + | как в ламаизме. Относительная частота имени фьяг-рдор в бонских текстах, видимо, |
| + | указывает на тот факт, что имя принадлежит терминологии бон-по или оно было принято |
| + | бон-по. |
| + | |
| + | Остальные стены основного зала покрыты фресками, изображающими бонские формы |
| + | Ваджрадхары, Ваджракилы, Ямантаки, Демчога, Палден Лхамо и даже бонскую форму Калачакры, |
| + | представлены на стенах в обоих – умеренных и жестоких – формах. Главный лама монастыря |
| + | сообщил мне, что существует ряд текстов по Калачакре бон-по. Было бы интересно сравнить |
| + | их с Калачакрой буддистской системы. Все эти боги изображены держащими бонскую ваджру с |
| + | символом свастики и плод с появляющимся цветком. Некоторые из божеств изображены с |
| + | гирляндами цветов на головах. Все они представлены сидящими или стоящими на низких |
| + | тронах, или асанах, с изображениями льва, орла и слона. |
| + | |
| + | Второй этаж занят несколькими большими комнатами, которые всегда в тибетских монастырях |
| + | используются как жилища священников. Комнаты имеют также ряд фресок с изображением |
| + | легендарной жизни Шенрапа ми-во. Легко идентифицировать сцены его жизни, которые, как я |
| + | уже упоминал, навеяны буддистской легендой. Фреска, занимающая целую стену, изображает |
| + | различных бонских учителей – все сидят в одном ряду, одетые в одежды лам красной секты. |
| + | Некоторые из представленных персонажей носят белые мантии поверх своих темно-пурпурных |
| + | одежд лам. Пока еще мы не способны определить историю линии бонских учителей. |
| + | |
| + | Другая интересная фреска изображает бонский тшок-чин, или собрание бонских божеств, с |
| + | бонским ску кунг-ту бзанг-по с расположенным в верхней части фрески Шенрапом ми-во, |
| + | окруженным множеством бонских божеств и святых. Другая фреска, вероятно, представляет |
| + | семь святых или героев, названных Па-во рап-дун (дпа-во раб-бдун). Они, вероятно, |
| + | идентичны семи а-кху, или помощникам Гесера. Бонский Танджур хранится в новом ду-кханге, |
| + | где под библиотеку отведена специальная комната. |
| + | |
| + | Старый ду-кханг на противоположной стороне двора имеет алтарь, представляющий окрашенную |
| + | деревянную застекленную витрину, в которой стоят глиняные изображения Шенрапа ми-во и |
| + | ламы «Провозглашателя бонской веры», как бонский священник назвал его, изображенного |
| + | держащим в правой руке стебель цветка лотоса, поддерживающим религиозную книгу, или |
| + | легс-бам – вполне буддистский символ, принятый в бон-по. Подобие этого изображения с |
| + | буддистским реформатором рГьял-ва Дзон-капа очевидно. Перед изображениями жгут большие |
| + | лампады (чо-ме), сделанные из массивного серебра, и там стоят обычно восемь счастливых |
| + | подношений. В других отношениях оборудование алтаря идентично тому, которое есть в |
| + | буддистских храмах. Все другие стены заняты полками, или кюн-ра, содержащими сто сорок |
| + | томов бонского Канджура. |
| + | |
| + | Выше книжных полок висит ряд масок, используемых в религиозных танцах, которые |
| + | проводятся летом. Отверстие в крыше дает возможность доступа на плоскую крышу ду-кханга. |
| + | Ствол дерева с вырезанными ступенями служит лестницей. Каждым утром на рассвете лама |
| + | поднимается на крышу и звуками раковины приглашает монахов к утренней службе. В течение |
| + | месяца нашего проживания в монастыре мы редко видели религиозные службы, проводимые там. |
| + | Главный лама всегда отсутствовал, находясь в своем жилище, остальные монахи занимались |
| + | своими собственными домашними делами. |
| + | |
| + | В декабре 1923 г. монастырь использовался как казарма для тибетских солдат, |
| + | посланных на поиски Таши ламы, который перед этим бежал из Шигадзе в Китай. |
| + | |
| + | За оградой найдены многочисленные каменные изображения Шенрапа тон-па, одетого подобно |
| + | бонскому бодхисаттве, или Гьюнг-друнг сем-па, держащим магический скипетр, и несколько |
| + | написанных на камне бонских формул Ом-ма-ни-хри-му-йе-са-ленду. Каждой группе букв |
| + | соответствует один из восьми счастливых символов, или бКра-шис ртагс-бргьяд, которые |
| + | представлены под надписью. |
| + | |
| + | Современное население, исповедующее бон-по не очень строго в соблюдении бонских |
| + | ритуалов, и часто можно видеть тантрических лам, или нгаг-пов, из лхасского монастыря |
| + | Сера, практикующих среди населения бон-по. Имеется, однако, определенный антагонизм |
| + | между буддистскими и бон-по монастырями. Ламам бон-по приписывают обладание опасным |
| + | знанием скрытых вещей, и ночь, проведенная в бон-по монастыре, может принести несчастье. |
| + | В нашем случае смерть жены майора от пневмонии рассматривалась населением как случай |
| + | гнева местного монастырского божества. Главный лама монастыря, старик с кудрявыми |
| + | волосами и почти негроидного вида, однажды спросил меня: «Вы изучаете доктрины Будды, |
| + | как можете вы интересоваться нашими бонскими писаниями? Две доктрины не могут идти |
| + | вместе, так как одна исключает другую». Ламаистские монголы имеют большую антипатию к |
| + | бон-по вере, которая обычно известна им под названием Кхара-ном, или «Черная Вера». |
| + | |
| + | Некоторые из лам бон-по региона Хора весьма богаты: обладают большими стадами яков, |
| + | овец, и имеют хорошие личные библиотеки. Они живут в палатках. Иногда две или три |
| + | палатки собирают вместе, формируя одну палатку достаточной длины, чтобы разместить все |
| + | семейство и некоторых служащих. Много таких лам успешно торгуют и продают населению |
| + | брикеты чая, который они получают из Сычуаня, и другие предметы потребления. Местные |
| + | кочевники испытывают большое уважение к ним и неизменно обращаются к ним: Кушо-римпоче |
| + | или лама-ла – драгоценный господин или почтенный учитель. Все мирские последователи бон |
| + | носят амулетницы, или га-у, на шеях и поперек плеча, и вращают молитвенные барабаны в |
| + | противоположном направлении. Возле их палаток стоят большие шесты с молитвенными |
| + | флагами, и иногда на них можно увидеть хвост лошади или яка. |
| + | |
| + | Один из важных результатов экспедиции – открытие «звериного стиля» среди кочевых племен |
| + | Северного Тибета. Этот «звериный стиль» состоит из декоративных мотивов, состоящих из |
| + | фигур животных, которые иногда комбинируются, формируя наиболее поразительные |
| + | орнаментальные композиции. Некоторые из этих мотивов высоко стилизованы и образовывались |
| + | в результате длительного развития. Художники, создававшие их, были острыми наблюдателями |
| + | природы и хорошо знали характер и привычки животных, которых они изображали. Этот стиль |
| + | распространился по огромным регионам и был общим для всех кочевых племен верхней Азии. |
| + | Центр этой великой культуры кочевников, которая так сильно повлияла на искусство более |
| + | цивилизованных соседей, находился в Алтайских горах – области, изобилующей золотом и |
| + | металлической рудой, и фауна которой часто отображается в предметах в «зверином стиле». |
| + | |
| + | Трудно сказать, был ли «звериный стиль» связан с каким-либо особым физическим типом |
| + | людей. Я склонен думать, что это произошло среди кочевых и охотничьих племен большого |
| + | этнического разнообразия, но живущих в аналогичной среде, и мы только таким образом |
| + | способны объяснить огромное распространение «звериного стиля» – от южных российских |
| + | степей к самым границам Китая и от сибирских лесных просторов до могучих высот |
| + | Трансгималаев и Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | Тибет всегда был открыт для миграций племен с северо-востока. С северо-востока вторглись |
| + | в страну предки современных тибетцев. Высокое плоскогорье страны Коко-нор в среднем |
| + | поднято на высоту около десяти тысяч футов, и окружающая его горная страна предоставляет |
| + | достаточно пастбищ для передвижения орд и их скота. Отсюда орды древних тибетцев, |
| + | перемещающиеся некой могучей человеческой волной, были вынуждены искать новые пастбища, |
| + | пересекая долины и плато Тибета. |
| + | |
| + | В исторические времена тибетские племена имели хорошие торговые сообщения с Ираном и |
| + | палео-азиатскими племенами, которые кочевали по обширным пространствам китайских |
| + | пограничных земель. Современное исследование установило факт, что иранские племена были |
| + | распространителями «звериного стиля». Во время ханьской эпохи (206 до н.э. – 220 н.э.) |
| + | иранское вооружение поставлялось в Китай, и с ним прибывала богатая орнаментация в |
| + | нео-зверином стиле, названном так, чтобы отличить его от звериного стиля южных |
| + | российских степей. |
| + | |
| + | Самое раннее известное сообщение о проникновении иностранных центральноазиатских |
| + | элементов в страну, населенную тибетскими племенами (Кьянгами по китайским анналам), |
| + | найдено в Шики известным историком Сзи-ма-цьеном: |
| + | |
| + | «До времени, когда Лао-шанг, шан-ю из Хиунг-ну, убил короля Юе-чи (иранцев) и сделал |
| + | чашу для питья из его черепа, Юе-чи жили между Тунь хуаном (ныне Шачоу) и Ки-льеном |
| + | (горы к юго-западу от Кан-чоу фу), но когда они были побеждены Хиунг-ну, они бежали в |
| + | отдаленную страну и пересекли Запад Юаня (Фергана), атаковали Та-хиа (Бактрия) и |
| + | захватили ее. Впоследствии они имели свою столицу на севере Куй-шуй (Оксус) и сделали ее |
| + | двором своего короля. Меньшинство, которое осталось сзади из-за неспособности следовать |
| + | за ними, нашли убежище среди Кьянгов (тибетцев) в Нань Шане и были названы Сяо-йе-чи |
| + | (малые Юе-чи)». |
| + | |
| + | Мы озабочены здесь только концом вышеупомянутого утверждения. Часть Юе-чи, иранское |
| + | племя Центральной Азии, населяющее современную провинцию Кансу и Южный Алашан (были ли |
| + | Юе-чи однородным племенем сцитхианского происхождения или скоплением родственных племен |
| + | со сходными обычаями и правилами жизни – мы полностью не способны решить в настоящее |
| + | время), мигрировало в горную страну южнее от настоящей китайской провинции Кансу и стало |
| + | постепенно сливаться с аборигенным тибетским населением гор. Эти переселяющиеся кочевые |
| + | племена принесли с собой кочевую культуру и племенной эпос. Они также принесли это |
| + | высоко условное искусство кочевников Центральной Азии, отличающееся животным орнаментом |
| + | и длинными тяжелыми мечами, которые до сих пор еще являются любимым вооружением |
| + | тибетских кочевников. Важные находки текстиля и металлических предметов в «неозверином |
| + | стиле» были обнаружены генералом П.К.Козловым в Монголии в горах Ноин ула на севере от |
| + | Урги, но ничего не было известно о существовании этого искусства в Тибете. Из открытий |
| + | экспедиции Рериха видно, что очень схожий стиль был популярен в металлообрабатывающем |
| + | регионе Дерге, одной из самых лучших в художественном отношении провинций Тибета, и |
| + | среди племен Северного и Северо-Восточного Тибета. Среди хорпов этот стиль все еще |
| + | культивируется, и прилагаемые иллюстрации показывают несколько предметов в тибетском |
| + | «зверином стиле». |
| + | |
| + | 1. Сумка для огнива и кремней. Сумка привезена с запада региона Хор. Она сделана из |
| + | черной выделанной кожи, украшена медными фигурами животных. Несомненно, |
| + | центральноазиатская вещь, выполненная в «зверином стиле». Фигуры животных представляют |
| + | собой самки ланей с детенышами. Изготовление фигур животных и их декоративная обработка |
| + | свидетельствуют о близкой связи с центральноазиатским кочевым искусством. В центре сумки |
| + | – медная пластина с изображениями восьми счастливых символов (та-ши таг-гье). |
| + | |
| + | 2. Сумка для огнива и кремней. Привезена из того же региона. Она сделана из черной |
| + | выделанной кожи, украшена медными фигурами животных. Мы видим на ней две стилизованные |
| + | фигуры лис, срывающих плод с дерева. Такая обработка двух фигур и размещение дерева |
| + | между ними часто появляются на сцитианских и сибирских древностях. |
| + | |
| + | 3. Медная пряжка, представляющая двуглавого орла внутри круга. Пряжка доставлена из |
| + | Чинг-кара, место западнее Нагчу. Бляшки с изображением орлов с двумя головами были |
| + | обнаружены в кубанских могильниках Северного Кавказа. Мотив с изображением двуглавого |
| + | орла прослеживается даже до Хиттитского искусства Малой Азии. |
| + | |
| + | Сумки для огнива и пряжки в таком «зверином стиле» были найдены нами только среди |
| + | хорпов. Чангпы из региона Великих Озер уже имеют обычные тибетские сумки для огнива, |
| + | украшенные коралловыми, бирюзовыми и металлическими гвоздями из серебра, меди, но редко |
| + | из золота. |
| + | |
| + | 4. Бегущая лань. Эта фигура была взята с медной амулетной сумки, привезенной из Дерге, |
| + | находящейся в настоящее время в коллекции г-на С.Н.Рериха. Восемь счастливых символов |
| + | тибетских украшений сочетаются с фигурой бегущей лани. Фигура лани, несомненно, |
| + | принадлежит искусству кочевников, характеризуемому как «звериный стиль». Голова лани |
| + | повернута назад, и это характерный и часто замеченный мотив в сцитианских и сибирских |
| + | древностях. Обработка морды и глаз животного имеет свои аналогии в древних предметах, |
| + | найденных в могильниках южных российских степей и Южной Сибири. |
| + | |
| + | 5-6. Два изображения были взяты с посеребренного железного футляра для ручек из Дерге. |
| + | На этом футляре, сделанном из массивного железа, среди обычного цветочного орнамента мы |
| + | видим фигуру сидящих оленя и лебедя. Мотивы с изображениями сидящих ланей, лосей или |
| + | оленей общеизвестны в сцитианских и сибирских древних предметах. Фигура лебедя |
| + | изображена уже под сильным влиянием китайского орнаментального искусства. Эта фигура – |
| + | изделие китайской мастерской, производящей художественные изделия для пограничных |
| + | племен. Интересно заметить, что лебедь на нашем футляре соответствует почти во всех |
| + | деталях фигуре длинношеей птицы с распростертыми крыльями (лебедь?), найденной на части |
| + | вышивки, обнаруженной генералом П.К.Козловым в горах Ноин ула. Поза птицы и расположение |
| + | крыльев подобны в обоих случаях. Левое крыло поднято, правое опущено – образуют острый |
| + | угол. Несомненно, что эти две фигуры прибыли из одного общего центральноазиатского |
| + | источника и представляют некие мифологические персонажи. |
| + | |
| + | 7. Львиная пряжка из коллекции С.Н.Рериха. Другой замечательный пример |
| + | центральноазиатского кочевого искусства в «зверином стиле», найденный для коллекции |
| + | С.Н.Рерихом. Привлекает внимание железная посеребренная пряжка с рельефом, привезенная |
| + | из Дерге в Северо-Восточный Тибет. Этот уникальный предмет представляет льва с головой, |
| + | направленной налево к зрителю. Грива животного висит вокруг головы толстыми пучками. |
| + | Обработка тела животного необычно мощна. Он изображен сидящим на задних ногах с поднятым |
| + | хвостом, как будто привлеченный каким-то шумом и готовый к прыжку. Фон сформирован из |
| + | двух стилизованных деревьев. Под фигурой льва видна холмистая местность с высоко |
| + | стилизованными холмами. |
| + | |
| + | Трудно определить, для чего была использована эта пряжка. Два квадратных отверстия с |
| + | обеих сторон, видимо, сделаны для полоски кожи, которая пропускалась под пряжкой. Пряжка |
| + | могла быть использована как нагрудное украшение или как пряжка для ремня. Среди |
| + | предметов, обнаруженных Козловской экспедицией в курганах гор Ноин ула, найдены |
| + | металлические пряжки с рельефами, изображающими стоящего быка с опущенной и повернутой |
| + | влево головой. |
| + | |
| + | При сравнении двух пряжек можно увидеть близкое подобие композиций. На обеих основная |
| + | фигура – это животное, стоящее слева направо с головой, обращенной к зрителю. Трудно |
| + | сказать, изображен ли на козловской пряжке як. Я склонен думать, что она изображает |
| + | зубра. Обработка меха животных в обоих случаях аналогична. Обе пряжки имеют как фон два |
| + | стилизованных дерева. Пряжка из коллекции С.Н.Рериха имеет фоном два дерева, |
| + | разветвляющиеся над головой льва. Эти деревья предполагают страну с более теплым |
| + | климатом, тогда как Козловская пряжка изображает две сосны, что говорит о северном |
| + | происхождении предмета. Создается впечатление, что два предмета изображают животные |
| + | мотивы, занесенные в кочевое искусство Внутренней Азии, но львиная пряжка изготовлена в |
| + | южных частях этой провинции, занимающейся художественными промыслами, а пряжка с зубром |
| + | – на северной границе. Обе пряжки изображают сильно стилизованные горы, вероятно |
| + | покрытые лесом. |
| + | |
| + | М-р Персиваль Йеттс в своей статье о козловской находке высказывает мнение, что |
| + | козловская пряжка использовалась как фалара, или украшение упряжи. Он привлекает |
| + | внимание к определенным особенностям, которые напоминают сассанианскую серебряную |
| + | пластину, найденную около верхнего течения Камы. |
| + | |
| + | Древняя пряжка из собрания С Н Рериха – поразительный пример искусства кочевников, так |
| + | как она найдена среди племен Северного Тибета в большом металлообрабатывающем регионе |
| + | Дерге и Амдо. |
| + | |
| + | Все эти предметы неопровержимо доказывают существование древнего центральноазиатского |
| + | кочевого искусства в Тибете. Горный характер страны с недоступными долинами помогает |
| + | сохранить большое количество воспоминаний об отдаленной старине, и кочевое население |
| + | сильно дорожит центральноазиатским прошлым. Пока внимание было привлечено только к |
| + | религиозному искусству Тибета, красочным знаменам и прекрасным бронзам. Теперь открыта |
| + | новая сфера тибетского народного искусства, которая являет собой добуддистское искусство |
| + | тибетских кочевых племен, оставшееся с отдаленного прошлого. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 18 |
| + | |
| + | 4 января 1928 г. Шаругон. Холодная ночь, на термометре -300С. К утру холод |
| + | усилился, и мы дрожали под брезентом летних палаток. Около половины седьмого из-за горы, |
| + | напротив нашего лагеря, выглянуло солнце и слегка согрело воздух. День обещал быть |
| + | солнечным. Утром мы, как обычно, шли вдоль берега скованной льдом реки и заметили |
| + | бородачей-ягнятников, замерших на утесах недалеко от монастыря с таким видом, что это |
| + | навевало мысли об их будущих жертвах и смерти. И действительно, ближе к вечеру один из |
| + | местных солдат принес известие о том, что жена майора утром умерла. Свое известие он |
| + | прокомментировал так: «Господин, майор притеснял бедных людей этой местности, причинил |
| + | много вреда Вашей Чести, и поэтому боги, покровительствующие монастырю, наказали его». |
| + | За несколько дней до этого я сказал майору, что пневмония на такой высоте и в таких |
| + | ужасных условиях неизлечима. |
| + | |
| + | Дошли слухи, что губернаторы Нагчу после прибытия в Цомра снова возвратились к себе. |
| + | Местный старшина, невысокий человек с лукавым лицом и тихими манерами, зашел ко мне в |
| + | палатку и поведал обычные местные жалобы. Он сообщил, что область перешла во владение |
| + | правительства Лхасы около двенадцати лет назад. «Под китайским господством мы жили |
| + | намного счастливей, – убеждал старшина, – но теперь страдаем от непосильных налогов, |
| + | установленных тибетцами, это довело наших людей до крайней бедности. Не верьте тибетцам. |
| + | С тех пор, как мы стали тибетскими ми-сер (крестьяне или подчиненные), сменились четыре |
| + | чьи-чьябы, или верховных комиссара, но мы ничего от них так и не увидели». Наша беседа |
| + | была прервана солдатом, посланным майором, который сообщил, что губернаторы Нагчу должны |
| + | прибыть на следующий день. |
| + | |
| + | Все радовались, видя в этом возможный конец вынужденной задержки. Местные жители были |
| + | особенно довольны, поскольку они были утомлены обслуживанием нас, майора и его солдат. |
| + | Вечером, когда луна взошла над скалами, часовые пели сагу о Гесере и сопровождали свою |
| + | песню таинственным танцем. «Сегодня конь Гесера прибыл, сегодня взойдет солнце, лев |
| + | пройдет по леднику», – пели хорпы отрывок из песни о войне Гесера против правителя Хора. |
| + | Их пронзительные голоса далеко разносились в безмолвии ночи. В песне о Гесере они желали |
| + | нам удачи на пути к далекой Индии. Их песня была резко прервана Кхам-па. «Не пойте так |
| + | громко, – сказал он, – иначе тибетцы в монастыре услышат вас и рассердятся». Песня резко |
| + | оборвалась, публика рассеялась, и каждый направился к своей палатке. Мы задержались еще |
| + | на некоторое время, разговаривая о той необычайной притягательности, которую имеет песнь |
| + | о Гесере для этих простодушных кочевников. В ту ночь мы спали мало. Майор приказал за |
| + | ночь соорудить лагерь для губернаторов, и время до утра прошло в непрерывном движении и |
| + | ожидании. На следующее утро, около десяти часов прибыли двое тибетцев: доньер, или |
| + | представитель, и повар губернатора. Они были одеты в традиционном тибетском стиле, в |
| + | огромных меховых шапках и несли га-у, или шкатулки с магическими заклинаниями. Они были |
| + | вооружены русскими винтовками, украшенными кхатагами и разноцветными флажками. |
| + | |
| + | Около полудня всеобщее волнение известило о прибытии губернаторов, которые сразу же |
| + | направились к своим палаткам. Через час губернаторы официально известили нас о своем |
| + | прибытии. Мы собрались в палатке-столовой. Губернаторы появились в сопровождении |
| + | множества слуг, которые несли для нас подарки – два мешка ячменя для сотни животных, |
| + | цампу и чай очень плохого качества. Кхан-по Нагчу был человек среднего роста, лет |
| + | шестидесяти, одетый в обычное красно-пурпурное одеяние ламы. Он считался очень опытным |
| + | дипломатом в Тибете и был известен под именем гарпона Гоманга. В юности он приехал в |
| + | Гоманг дацан монастыря Дрепунг, но затем уехал оттуда в Китай, где вел странствующую |
| + | жизнь, посещая различные районы Китая, Монголии и даже Сибири. Впоследствии он провел |
| + | пять лет на правительственной службе в Пекине, где встретил Рокхилла, и семь лет пробыл |
| + | в качестве тибетского торгового агента в Синине, в провинции Кансу. Он бегло владел |
| + | китайским и немного знал монгольский. Это был джентльмен с квадратной челюстью, имевший |
| + | репутацию чрезвычайно высокомерного человека, с которым трудно иметь дело. Он носил |
| + | темные китайские очки, пытаясь, очевидно, запугать нас своей свирепой внешностью. |
| + | |
| + | По его словам, в течение нескольких лет он жил в уединении в Лхасе, когда одно из самых |
| + | влиятельных правительств Святого Покровителя, опасаясь китайского наступления из Кансу, |
| + | назначило его, верного служащего и правительственного дипломата, обладающего детальным |
| + | знанием «восьми великих стран», на пост губернатора Нагчу. Несмотря на то, что он был |
| + | женат, Далай лама лично присвоил ему звание дзедрунг, получаемое обычно только монахами, |
| + | дающими обет безбрачия. |
| + | |
| + | Его коллега, гражданский губернатор или нанг-со, был не менее отмечен на |
| + | правительственной службе. Это был пожилой джентельмен, состарившийся на службе своего |
| + | правительства. Одет он был в платье из китайской желтой парчи и шляпу манчу. Его звали |
| + | Гонг-кар, и его сын изучал военную науку в Индии в батальоне гурков. Губернатор провел |
| + | большую часть своей жизни в различных дзонг-кхасах, или провинциальных районах Тибета. |
| + | Когда Тибет воевал с Китаем, он занимался мобилизацией в Намру. В 1918 г. он был |
| + | прикреплен к миссии Тейчмана в Кхаме. Во время китайско-тибетской войны |
| + | 1917-1918 гг. он служил под командованием Калон ламы, тибетского |
| + | главнокомандующего. Перед прибытием в Нагчу он был дзонг-поном, или губернатором в |
| + | Конгпо, где встретил полковника Бэйли и капитана Моршеда. Из этого перечня их заслуг мы |
| + | могли убедиться, что имеем дело с опытными дипломатами, которым полностью доверяет |
| + | правительство. |
| + | |
| + | Выяснив цели экспедиции, кхан-по воскликнул, что весьма рад слышать все это, но с тех |
| + | пор как Тибет стал религиозной страной, не имеющей отношения к делам внешнего мира, |
| + | правительство страны вообще запрещает иностранцам посещать свои территории. Мы указали |
| + | ему на то, что в 1904 году они допускали иностранцев и что в Гянцзе находился британский |
| + | отряд. Губернатор только улыбнулся и уверил нас, что все британские подданные были |
| + | выдворены из Гянцзе и что никогда не слышал о британских войсках в том районе. Мы |
| + | спросили у него разрешения послать телеграмму из Лхасы в Сикким, но губернатор |
| + | утверждал, что телеграфной связи между Лхасой и Индией не существует. «Когда министр |
| + | Бэлл обсуждал с нами договор, то была необходимость в телеграфной связи, но после того |
| + | как договор был заключен, телеграфную линию уничтожили. Британцы не сдержали своих |
| + | обещаний и не научили тибетцев изготовлять черный порох». |
| + | |
| + | Далее губернатор уведомил нас, что его правительство не разрешает британским, русским, |
| + | китайским и японским подданным вообще посещать Тибет, а также провинции Ю и Цанг. Хотя в |
| + | существующих договорах не ставится такое условие относительно американцев, но тем не |
| + | менее они не могут нам позволить въехать, потому что британцы, русские и японцы станут |
| + | пользоваться преимуществом этого прецедента и проникнут в страну. Губернаторы сообщили |
| + | нам, что обычный способ обхождения с иностранцами, прибывающими на границу Нагчу, |
| + | состоит в отправке их обратно в Синин или в Ладак. Но в данном случае власти были готовы |
| + | рассмотреть нашу просьбу и позволить нам пересечь Тибет на пути к Индии. Кхан-по |
| + | добавил, что согласно инструкциям, полученным из Лхасы, он и его коллега предоставят нам |
| + | новых караванных животных и продовольствие до границы Индии. |
| + | |
| + | В ответ мы сообщили губернаторам, что условия соглашения не могут быть применены к нам, |
| + | поскольку мы не самозванцы, а имели официальный паспорт, выданный представителем Тибета |
| + | в Монголии. Мы настаивали, чтобы экспедиции позволили посетить Гянцзе, |
| + | проконсультироваться с британским торговым агентом, остановившимся там, и сослались на |
| + | тот факт, что в последнее время многие из иностранных подданных побывали в тибетской |
| + | столице, и главным образом генерал Перейра, который в 1922 г. пересек Тибет на пути |
| + | в Индию. Губернаторы заявили, что все это была ложь, поскольку генерал Перейра никогда |
| + | не существовал. Они снова и снова ссылались на общепринятое правило, что иностранцам не |
| + | позволено посещать Внутренний Тибет (По-нанг), но мы могли свободно перемещаться по |
| + | Внешнему Тибету (По-чий), включая все провинции к востоку от Чамдо и провинцию |
| + | Тхо-нга-ри корсум на западе. Мы продолжали настаивать, чтобы нам позволили переправиться |
| + | в Индию самым коротким путем, при необходимости минуя Лхасу, Шигадзе и Гянцзе. Тибетцы |
| + | попросили показать предполагаемый маршрут на карте. Мы предложили маршрут через перевал |
| + | Дам ла, который пересекает территорию Внутреннего Тибета между Лхасой и Шигадзе, и далее |
| + | присоединяется к торговому караванному пути Лхаса – Индия в Пхари дзонге. |
| + | |
| + | Этот маршрут имел большое преимущество, являясь намного короче любого из окружных |
| + | маршрутов. Всего двадцать дней требуется вьючному каравану, чтобы дойти до Пхари дзонга, |
| + | и, кроме того, он проходит по земледельческим районам Тибета, где легко можно было |
| + | достать припасы. Мы снова напомнили губернаторам, что не являемся самозванцами и имеем |
| + | паспорта, выданному тибетским представителем в Монголии. «Почему вы уделяете так много |
| + | внимания клочку бумаги, выданного этим несчастным нищим?» – воскликнул кхан-по. Он терял |
| + | самообладание, и стоящие рядом слуги нагло смеялись в рукава своих меховых кафтанов. Мы |
| + | продолжали настаивать на своем и посоветовали кхан-по, что если тибетское правительство |
| + | не признает своего официального представителя в Урге, то об этом следует немедленно |
| + | сообщить китайскому и монгольскому правительствам. Губернаторы пришли в смятение и |
| + | объявили, что им нужно составить новое письмо относительно нас в Лхасу. Мы вышли с |
| + | губернаторами из палатки, и они сразу же отбыли в свой лагерь. К вечеру сгустились |
| + | облака, указывая на вероятную перемену погоды. |
| + | |
| + | Ночью шел снег, и сильный юго-западный ветер яростно сотрясал палатки. День был |
| + | ненастный, и буря продолжалась почти до полуночи. Губернаторы прибыли снова, чтобы |
| + | повидать нас. Нам не разрешалось перейти через Дам ла, минуя Гянцзе, но их правительство |
| + | было готово договориться о нашем маршруте в Сикким через Намру, Нагтшанг и Сага дзонг. |
| + | Все путешествие заняло бы только месяц, так как до Сага дзонга всего шесть дней пути от |
| + | границы Сиккима. Бедные губернаторы, они пытались обмануть нас, или их знание |
| + | собственной страны было недостаточно полным? Делать было нечего, и пришлось соглашаться, |
| + | но мы попросили, чтобы нам позволили пересечь Трансгималаи и выйти в провинцию Цанг |
| + | южнее Нагтшанга. Губернаторы обещали передать нашу просьбу правительству. Кхан-по |
| + | попросил нас приехать к нему, поскольку хотел бы иметь список припасов, необходимых |
| + | экспедиции, направлявшейся в Индию, и готовы были отправить трех человек закупать их в |
| + | Лхасу. |
| + | |
| + | В пять часов дня мы нанесли ответный визит кхан-по. Временная штаб-квартира губернатора |
| + | находилась в обычной ба-наг, или черной кочевой палатке. Мы застали его сидящим на |
| + | корточках на низком стуле около костра. Шест палатки, находящийся перед ним, был |
| + | буквально завешен огнестрельным оружием: несколько русских кавалерийских винтовок и |
| + | немецкие автоматические пистолеты Маузера, казавшиеся безобидными из-за чрезмерного |
| + | украшения серебряным орнаментом. Мы снова попытались убедить губернатора отослать |
| + | телеграммы в Лхасу для дальнейшей пересылки в Нью-Йорк и полковнику Бэйли, британскому |
| + | государственному служащему в Сиккиме. Губернатор снова отказался послать телеграммы, |
| + | поскольку линия между Лхасой и Гянцзе была недавно повреждена, а все британские отряды |
| + | отведены из Гянцзе и долины Чумби, которая теперь находилась под полным контролем |
| + | Тибета. Мы сообщили губернатору, что сильно удивлены изменением отношения тибетского |
| + | правительства к британскому и просили его пояснить ситуацию. Ответ был совершенно |
| + | неожиданным. Губернатор обвинил британцев во внесении большевизма в тибетскую армию. |
| + | |
| + | Уладив вопрос с продовольствием, мы возвратились в лагерь. Завывающий ветер швырял в |
| + | лицо песок и мокрый снег. На следующее утро губернаторы уехали в Нагчу, а мы начали |
| + | готовиться к отъезду. Теперь нам позволили отправиться в Нагчу, а местный старшина уехал |
| + | из Шаругона собирать для нас яков и лошадей. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 19 |
| + | |
| + | Была еще ночь, когда все поднялись и занялись упаковкой постельных принадлежностей. 4 |
| + | марта 1928 г. запомнится всем членам экспедиции, как окончание плена на |
| + | негостеприимных нагорьях Тибета. Рассвет мягко окрашивал небо, а снежные вершины горной |
| + | цепи Шанг-шунг, находящейся позади нас, были окутаны темно-синей дымкой. Над крышами |
| + | Нагчу поднимались струйки дыма, но улицы были все еще пустынны. Погонщики яков, или |
| + | по-тибетски лакто, пили чай с цампой, сидя на корточках около больших костров, |
| + | разложенных на улице, за воротами штаб-квартиры экспедиции. Началась погрузка багажа на |
| + | яков, и только через три часа груженый караван тронулся в путь. Мы решили покинуть Нагчу |
| + | после отправки всего тяжело груженного транспорта. |
| + | |
| + | В половине восьмого все было закончено, ушла последняя группа яков и исчезла в узком |
| + | ущелье за рекой. Мы выступили в путь в сопровождении двух доньеров из дзонга, которые |
| + | сопровождали нас в Намру. Наши монгольские слуги, возвращающиеся в Цайдам, распрощались |
| + | с нами и подарили церемониальные шарфы. Они очень сожалели о нашем отъезде и страшились |
| + | неприятностей от губернаторов. Они слышали о том, что слуги-тибетцы доктора Филчнера |
| + | были брошены в тюрьму, и опасались подобной же участи. В Нагчу мне пришлось переговорить |
| + | с местными властями об их безопасности, и те обещали оказывать нашим людям всяческую |
| + | помощь во время их пути в Цайдам. Мы выдали слугам от имени экспедиции сертификаты на |
| + | тибетском языке с просьбой к гражданским и военным властям Тибета оказывать этим людям |
| + | необходимую помощь и защиту на тибетской территории, а высокопоставленный тибетский |
| + | лама, отправляющийся в Цайдам, согласился взять их со своим караваном. Четыре месяца |
| + | спустя я с радостью узнал, что все они благополучно добрались до своих родных земель. |
| + | |
| + | Перебравшись через реку, все еще крепко скованную льдом, мы поднялись на горный отрог, и |
| + | скалистый силуэт скрыл от нашего взора Нагчу с его монастырем. Едва заметная тропинка |
| + | вилась вдоль южных склонов невысокого горного хребта, протянувшегося на запад. |
| + | |
| + | С этого момента мы двигались в западном направлении в течение пятидесяти дней. Солнце |
| + | прогревало воздух, и идти было приятно. |
| + | |
| + | Наконец-то мы покинули Нагчу с его мусорными кучами и направились в Индию. Мы знали, что |
| + | дорога будет трудной, что местность, которую нам предстоит пересечь, находится на высоте |
| + | 15500 футов и включает несколько перевалов. Чантанг, или высокогорье северного Тибета, |
| + | представляет собой область горных равнин и долин, пересеченных могучими снежными |
| + | хребтами, самый высокий из которых протянулся с запада на восток. Так как на каждом |
| + | переходе мы были вынуждены менять вьючных животных, то приходилось останавливаться около |
| + | стоянок кочевников, а для этого порой нужно было сделать длинный крюк. Большинство этих |
| + | стоянок находилось в горных долинах, укрытых от зимних ветров и бурь. |
| + | |
| + | После двухчасового перехода вдоль южных склонов хребта, расположенного почти параллельно |
| + | снежной горной цепи Шанг-шунг, мы поднялись на небольшой перевал, находящийся с |
| + | северо-западной стороны. По северным склонам хребта продвигались с трудом, лошади то и |
| + | дело проваливались в глубокий снег. Спустившись, мы вышли в узкую долину, лежавшую |
| + | западнее перевала. Замерзшие между кочками лужи осложняли путь. Мы ехали по долине еще |
| + | пару часов и в два часа добрались до группы кочевий, расположившихся на травянистых |
| + | склонах близлежащих холмов. Здесь мы получили неожиданную новость: наш грузовой караван |
| + | яков, который шел из Нагчу другой, северной дорогой, вдоль гребня хребта, находится в |
| + | настоящий момент примерно в двух милях от нас. Мы поспешили на север и, перебравшись |
| + | через долину, погребенную под глубоким снегом, вышли к небольшому кочевью только для |
| + | того, чтобы убедиться, что никакого каравана здесь нет. |
| + | |
| + | Вскоре после нашего прибытия подул сильный юго-западный ветер, и мы решили переждать, |
| + | отправив людей на поиски каравана. Порывы ветра поднимали в воздух тучи мельчайшей пыли |
| + | с навозных куч, оставленных у кочевья отарами овец, и находиться в этом месте было |
| + | невозможно. Поэтому мы с полковником отправились на поиски более чистого места. На |
| + | другой стороне долины нам удалось найти клочок сухой земли, пригодный для установки |
| + | палаток, и мы замахали остальным, чтобы они присоединялись к нам. Здесь мы провели около |
| + | часа, сидя на земле среди камней, укрываясь, насколько могли, от жестокого юго-западного |
| + | ветра. Внезапно в долине появился всадник, пробивающийся через глубокий снег. Это был |
| + | Очир, один из наших монголов, который сообщил, что лошади и верблюды достигли стоянки на |
| + | южном маршруте и что тяжело груженный караван яков должен появиться вслед за ними. Мы |
| + | тут же повернули назад, повторно перейдя через заснеженную долину. Пес Кадру, измотанный |
| + | длинными переходами, отказался идти, и пришлось взять его в седло. |
| + | |
| + | Добравшись до южной дороги, мы увидели первую приближающуюся группу яков с палатками, и |
| + | другим инвентарем, необходимым для походной жизни. Около шести часов был разбит лагерь, |
| + | и мы смогли немного отдохнуть после долгого и утомительного перехода. Ветер утих, и мы |
| + | наслаждались теплым, спокойным вечером: термометр показывал -1°С. Последняя группа |
| + | вьючного каравана прибыла только к восьми вечера, животные были измотаны продвижением по |
| + | глубокому снегу, лежащему вдоль горных хребтов. Кроме того у нас не было питьевой воды и |
| + | топлива. Местные кочевники приготовили их для нас примерно в десяти милях отсюда, на |
| + | берегу маленькой речки, именуемой Цангпо. Было уже поздно и караванные животные были |
| + | совершенно измучены, потому нельзя было снимать лагерь и идти дальше. После коротких |
| + | переговоров мы получили все необходимое для ночлега. Так как в долине не было воды, мы |
| + | были вынуждены растапливать снег. Проводник из Нагчу вдруг заявил, что он не знает |
| + | дальнейшего маршрута, и ему пришлось искать замену. |
| + | |
| + | Лама из Амдо, которому доводилось жить среди кочевников данной местности, сделал все |
| + | возможное, чтобы поудобнее устроить нас. Я спросил его, сколько времени нам потребуется, |
| + | чтобы дойти до границ Индии. Он замахал руками и сообщил, что Джангар, или Индия, |
| + | находится очень далеко и что потребуется по крайней мере шесть месяцев напряженного |
| + | пути! |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 2 |
| + | |
| + | 6 марта 1925 г. наша экспедиция покинула Дарджилинг, а с ним и дружественное княжество |
| + | Сикким. Спуск по склонам Восточных Гималаев, покрытых джунглями, оставляет |
| + | неизгладимое впечатление. Внимание путешественников привлекают тропическая |
| + | растительность и бесконечный поток горцев, бредущих по накатанным телегами дорогам. |
| + | |
| + | В Силигури мы прибыли ночью. Поезд шел по Бенгальской равнине, покрытой джунглями, |
| + | обширными болотами – рассадниками тропической лихорадки – и затопленными рисовыми |
| + | полями. Сквозь густой покров тропической ночи можно было наблюдать за незнакомой |
| + | жизнью около мерцающих костров, разбросанных среди джунглей и у порогов деревенских |
| + | хижин, ютящихся меж пальмовых деревьев. Люди в белых тюрбанах и дхоти переходили с |
| + | места на место, а на железнодорожных станциях воздух звенел от пронзительно высоких |
| + | голосов торговцев чаем, питьевой водой и сигаретами. Все вокруг казалось живым от |
| + | непрестанного движения под сенью ночи. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 20 |
| + | |
| + | 20 апреля 1928 г. Казначей дзонга не прибыл, и нам пришлось остаться в Сага дзонге |
| + | до его появления. Все отдыхали после последних напряженных десяти дней пути. Наш лагерь |
| + | располагался вблизи торгового пути Ладак – Нгари – Сага дзонг – Лхаса, и с раннего утра |
| + | было слышно мелодичное позвякивание колокольчиков лошадей и мулов проходящих караванов. |
| + | Сага дзонг – правительственная перевалочная станция на торговом маршруте и |
| + | административный центр обширного района, который граничит на севере с территориями |
| + | Нагтшанг и Нгари; на юге и востоке с районом, управляемым Дзонгха, фортом, расположенным |
| + | на границе Непала. |
| + | |
| + | Население района Сага состоит исключительно из кочевников, которые разводят яков и овец. |
| + | Ежегодный налог выплачивается продуктами животноводства, в основном маслом, шерстью и |
| + | кожей. Старшины района собираются ежегодно в девятом месяце тибетского года (примерно |
| + | октябрь-ноябрь), чтобы заплатить ежегодный налог, собираемый чиновниками из Лхасы. В |
| + | Сага дзонге находится около тридцати полуразрушенных каменных и кирпичных строений. |
| + | Официальное место жительства губернаторов, или собственно дзонг, находится в центре |
| + | деревни. В 1904 г резиденцию посетила британская гартокская миссия во главе с капитанами |
| + | Райдером и Роулингом, а в 1908 г. – доктор Свен Гедин. |
| + | |
| + | Во время нашего пребывания в Сага оба губернатора форта находились в Лхасе, и районом |
| + | управляли несколько заместителей и нирва дзонга, которым помогали доверенные лица из |
| + | местных старшин. Дзонг имел гарнизон из тридцати солдат под началом ше-нго, или младшего |
| + | офицера, обязанностью которого было охранять район и выполнять правительственные |
| + | постановления. Солдаты не носили никакой униформы, отличающей их от местного населения, |
| + | за исключением патронташей и полоски ткани на правом плече с номером роты (маг-кханг). |
| + | Гарнизон в Сага снабжается из пехотного батальона, расположенного в Тингри на границе |
| + | Непала. Вооружение состояло из винтовок Ли-Энгфильда старого образца в очень плохом |
| + | состоянии. |
| + | |
| + | Около дзонга находятся многочисленные мендонги, а в самой деревне есть маленький храм с |
| + | огромным молитвенным барабаном внутри. Летом сюда приезжают торговцы из центральных |
| + | провинций Тибета и непальские купцы, следующие маршрутами на Дзонгха и Ньелам. Кочевники |
| + | в основном продают местную продукцию – соль, шерсть и кожу. В этом году из-за необычного |
| + | снегопада торговые пути были перекрыты, а зимой от недостатка корма погибло большое |
| + | количество домашнего скота. У населения не было возможности запастись необходимым |
| + | количеством продовольствия, и многие семьи голодали. Во время нашего пребывания в дзонге |
| + | деревня была полна нищих, находящихся в столь отчаянном положении, что они поедали трупы |
| + | животных. Власти были не в состоянии содержать нужное количество сменных лошадей на |
| + | дорожных этапах вдоль маршрута и посылать ежегодный налог в Лхасу, поэтому правительству |
| + | была подана петиция с просьбой к Его Дражайшему Покровителю освободить население Сага |
| + | дзонга на следующий год от налогов. |
| + | |
| + | Ранним утром к нам пришли чиновники дзонга и принесли набросок письма с сообщением о |
| + | нашем маршруте, которое следовало отправить со специальным посыльным в Тингри. Власти |
| + | намеревались направить нас в Тингри через пустыню, чтобы мы совершили переправу через |
| + | Яру Цангпо в местечке около Кьякья, где две кожаные лодки перевозят пассажиров и товары |
| + | через реку. Они признались, что лодки были в плохом состоянии и нуждались в ремонте. Мы |
| + | решительно возразили против этого плана и заявили, что требуем разрешить идти в Янджу и |
| + | переправиться через реку в Шару. Наконец они согласились и отправили посыльного в Янджу, |
| + | но попросили, чтобы мы поставили свою личную печать на красном воске, скрепляющем |
| + | документ. Крестьяне, видя только официальную печать дзонга, подумают, что это один из |
| + | ежегодных сборов караванных животных для собственных нужд дзонга и не будут торопиться с |
| + | выполнением приказа. Было удивительно, что местные чиновники смертельно боятся своего |
| + | собственного народа и с удовольствием прячутся за спины чужестранцев. Мы предупредили, |
| + | что на них будет лежать ответственность за любую проволочку и задержку в Сага и что наш |
| + | паспорт обязывает представителей местной власти обеспечивать нас всем необходимым. Они |
| + | ответили, что готовы дать письмо с изложением причин задержки и невозможности поставить |
| + | нам достаточное количество продовольствия. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 3 |
| + | |
| + | 19 сентября 1925 года – памятный день в жизни нашей экспедиции! Прекрасное осеннее утро. |
| + | С гор дует легкий, необычайно освежающий и бодрящий ветерок. Большая толпа местных |
| + | жителей собралась проводить нас. Переход через перевал Кардонг – первый горный перевал |
| + | на туркестанском пути – обычно совершается на яках, которых нанимают у местных крестьян. |
| + | Вершина перевала покрыта льдом, и практически только вьючные яки могут идти здесь с |
| + | грузом; лошади же и мулы преодолевают перевал налегке. Мы решили следовать этому обычаю, |
| + | выработанному многолетним опытом местных жителей. Однако по неизвестной причине лехцы |
| + | пригнали только двадцать яков из сорока, и нам пришлось прождать все утро и большую |
| + | часть дня, пока не удалось собрать всех остальных. Как обычно, было много суеты, |
| + | окриков, и старший караванщик-ладакец свободно орудовал тростью. |
| + | |
| + | Наконец около четырех часов дня длинный караван экспедиции покинул почтовое бунгало и |
| + | заполонил узкую дорогу, ведущую мимо лехского дворца в горы, |
| + | через небольшую деревушку дГон-па. |
| + | За нами по пятам следовала большая толпа местных жителей, желая счастливого пути. |
| + | Мы миновали ячменные поля и монастырь Зангскар, чьи белые стены возвышаются над |
| + | равниной к северу от Леха. |
| + | |
| + | Как только проехали последнюю ладакскую деревню и ячменные поля, в нашу колонну |
| + | вторглась группа ладакских женщин и девушек с чашами ячьего молока, которым они окропили |
| + | наши лбы и животных, для чего нам пришлось низко склониться в седлах. Так они |
| + | благословили нас и пожелали благополучно преодолеть все трудности неприветливого |
| + | Каракорума. |
| + | |
| + | Три часа мы поднимались в горы, и с каждым шагом местность становилась все более |
| + | пустынной. Зеленые сады и поля Ладака остались позади, перед нами высились скалистые |
| + | горы с гребнями, покрытыми снегом и льдом. Огромные каменные глыбы свисали со склонов; |
| + | приходилось пересекать обширные участки, заваленные обломками пород, скатившихся с |
| + | гор. |
| + | Караван вьючных лошадей во главе с Назар-баем и Омар-ханом ушел вперед и остановился на |
| + | северном склоне перевала Кардонг, в маленькой деревушке Кхалсар. |
| + | |
| + | Мы разбили лагерь на каменистом плато, поблизости от какой-то разрушенной лачуги. |
| + | Вскоре задул пронизывающий северо-западный ветер, и нам пришлось искать убежища в |
| + | горах. Наши люди, затаившиеся под утесами, в своих серых овчинных шубах напоминали |
| + | хищников, высматривающих добычу. Караван яков подошел к месту стоянки только к десяти |
| + | часам вечера; о его приближении предупреждали громкие крики и свист погонщиков. Вскоре |
| + | появилась движущаяся темная масса, медленно заполнявшая пространство на небольшом |
| + | открытом плато, где был разбит наш лагерь. |
| + | Разгрузку животных мы начали в полной темноте, и неопытным караванщикам пришлось немало |
| + | потрудиться, чтобы поставить палатки. Ночь выдалась очень холодная, ветер дул не |
| + | переставая и стих лишь перед рассветом. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 4 |
| + | |
| + | Трудно было поверить, что мы находимся в Хотане – древнем царстве нефрита и одном из |
| + | самых цветущих оазисов китайской провинции Синьцзян. Современный город с крытыми |
| + | базарами и пыльными улочками скрывал облик древнего Хотана, бывшего когда-то очагом |
| + | буддийского учения и крупнейшим средоточием торговли Центральной Азии. |
| + | |
| + | В древних китайских анналах город известен под именем Юйтьена; местное название его |
| + | Кустана, или в китайской транскрипции – Чьиу-са-тан-на (а в другой транскрипции – |
| + | Чьиу-тан). |
| + | |
| + | Аурел Стейн во время своих археологических экспедиций в Хотан и его окрестности |
| + | обнаружил массу табличек с надписями на кхарошти – индийской письменности, |
| + | распространенной в Северо-Западной Индии в начале нашей эры. Эти документы помогают |
| + | лучше понять прошлое великого торгового центра на южном караванном пути, связывающие |
| + | Хотан с далеким Тунь-хуаном и Внутренним Китаем. |
| + | |
| + | В домусульманский период истории Центральной Азии Хотан был населен иранцами, |
| + | говорившими на диалекте, условно названном восточноиранским. |
| + | |
| + | В древнем Хотане и других оазисах на торговом пути находились большие колонии индийских |
| + | купцов, ведших значительную торговлю с Северо-Западной Индией. Возможно, именно эти |
| + | колонии и ввели алфавит кхарошти. В то время население Хотана исповедовало махаянистскую |
| + | форму буддизма. Китайские паломники, пренебрегавшие опасностями скитаний по |
| + | центральноазиатским пустыням ради приобщения к индийской мудрости, оставили потомкам |
| + | подробные сведения о процветании буддизма в Хотанском царстве и о поразительном |
| + | религиозном рвении его монархов. |
| + | |
| + | Мусульманские источники мало сообщают о средневековом Хотане. По-видимому, Хотан |
| + | оставался буддийским даже после мусульманского завоевания около 1000 года. Мусульманский |
| + | автор Гардизи сообщает, что население Хотана исповедовало буддизм, но он упоминает также |
| + | о кладбище мусульман на севере Хотана и о двух христианских церквах в самом городе |
| + | (однако до сих пор в Хотане не найдено ни манихейских, ни христианских реликвий). |
| + | |
| + | Ибн аль-Атхир говорит о Кадыр-хане Юсуфе, умершем в 1032 году как о мусульманском |
| + | завоевателе Хотана. |
| + | |
| + | В период с X по XII столетие в Хотане властвовали Илек-ханы и Кара-китаи. В XIII веке |
| + | древнее царство присягнуло на верность Китаю и продолжало полу-самостоятельное |
| + | существование под властью Китая до XVIII столетия, когда оно стало частью государства |
| + | ходжей (святых). После ходжей пришли джунгарские монголы, удерживавшие Хотан до 1758 |
| + | года, когда ойротская держава распалась под решительными ударами войск китайского |
| + | императора. С этого времени Хотан находился под китайским контролем, за исключением |
| + | короткого периода, начавшегося с 1863-1864 гг., когда оазис был завоеван |
| + | Якуб-беком. После его насильственной смерти в 1877 году Хотан снова оказался во власти |
| + | Китая и находится под его владычеством по настоящее время. Таковы важнейшие исторические |
| + | вехи в жизни знаменитого оазиса. |
| + | |
| + | На расстоянии пяти милей к западу от современного города лежат развалины |
| + | домусульманского города. Сэр Аурел Стейн собрал там интересную коллекцию древних вещиц и |
| + | монет. Непреодолимое препятствие для систематических археологических раскопок в том, что |
| + | древний город частично покрыт современными постройками и мусульманскими кладбищами, |
| + | тревожить которые нельзя. |
| + | |
| + | Случающиеся временами оползни открывают взору терракотовые фигурки и массу древних |
| + | монет, обычно попадающих в руки местных искателей сокровищ. За последние годы |
| + | археологические находки были весьма незначительны. Местные жители легко научились |
| + | подделывать терракотовые изображения ступ и даже животных, и на хотанском рынке можно |
| + | увидеть немало таких подделок. Сейчас профессия искателя сокровищ почти исчезла, и |
| + | только отдельные лица отваживаются посещать пустынные районы. Некоторые местные |
| + | знаменитости, знающие толк в подлинных антикварных вещах, собирают обширные коллекции с |
| + | одной целью – продать их богатым иностранцам. Говорят, одну из таких коллекций приобрело |
| + | Индийское археологическое общество. В таких случаях цена обычно очень высока и |
| + | считается, что коллекция гарантирована Индийским Археологическим Департаментом. Во время |
| + | нашего пребывания в Хотане ветеран индийских аксакалов, Бадруддин-хан, бывший помощник |
| + | сэра Аурела Стейна, показал нам большую коллекцию древностей, собранную им и его |
| + | помощниками в Йоткане, Раваке, Ние, мазаре имама Джафара Садыка и далеком Миране. Все |
| + | эти места были исследованы сэром Аурелом Стейном. Коллекция Бадруддин-хана состояла из |
| + | хорошо сохранившихся гипсовых головок Будды, кувшинов с ручками, украшенных головами |
| + | людей и животных, фрагментов фресок, предметов из глины, таких, как молитвенные ступы, |
| + | жертвенные светильники, фигурки животных и т.п. Здесь же было несколько деревянных |
| + | табличек с надписями на кхарошти, порванные фрагменты текста на восточноиранском языке, |
| + | обрывки текста с тибетскими письменами, найденные в Миране, в основном содержащие |
| + | приказы об отпусках солдат тибетского гарнизона. (Любопытная деталь – многократно |
| + | употребляется слово «дпа-о», означающее «солдат»; в современном языке его значение |
| + | сузилось до значения «герой»). |
| + | |
| + | У Бадруддин-хана была также солидная рукопись в переплете, испещренная |
| + | центральноазиатскими наклонными письменами, которую привезли из местности, расположенной |
| + | между Аксу и Куча. |
| + | |
| + | Все это представляло, конечно, большой научный интерес, но цена, запрошенная за собрание |
| + | древностей, оказалась чрезмерной и уговоры снизить ее ни к чему не привели. Стесненность |
| + | в серебряных и бумажных деньгах, затруднения в получении переводов и периодически |
| + | возникавшие трения с местными властями заставили нас отказаться от приобретения этого |
| + | материала. Впоследствии я узнал, что коллекцию купили какие-то путешественники, |
| + | побывавшие в Хотане уже после нашего отъезда. |
| + | |
| + | В современном оазисе Хотан живет около 150000 человек, в том числе и большая колония |
| + | китайских чиновников с семьями, торговцы и солдаты. Город состоит из двух частей: |
| + | Конешара, или Древнего города, где живут мусульмане, и Янгишара, или Нового города, |
| + | называемого также Ханьчьен. Последний является китайским городом и обнесен стеной, |
| + | возведенной в 1883 году. На протяжении всей своей истории Хотан был важным торговым |
| + | центром на древнем шелковом пути, а искусство хотанских ремесленников славится и поныне. |
| + | Хотанские шелка, ковры, войлок, шерсть, меха и нефрит пользуются огромным спросом и |
| + | высоко котируются в Центральной Азии, Индии и далеком Китае. До революции 1917 года |
| + | значительная торговля этими товарами велась также и с Россией через пограничный пост |
| + | Иркештам. |
| + | |
| + | Производство хотанского шелка определяет состояние экономики страны; хотанские шелковые |
| + | изделия продаются на всех рынках Китайского Туркестана. Несколько лет назад они в |
| + | значительных количествах поставлялись в Русский Туркестан. Помимо шелковых изделий Хотан |
| + | производит также хлопчатобумажные ткани, экспортируемые в больших количествах. На |
| + | хотанских шелковых и хлопчатобумажных фабриках заняты в основном женщины и дети. Мы |
| + | слышали о нескольких крупных купцах, на фабриках которых работали около двухсот девочек. |
| + | Умеренная форма рабства до сих пор остается отличительной чертой местной жизни. |
| + | Родителям ничего не остается делать, как продавать своих дочерей и сыновей в зажиточные |
| + | семьи, где о них позаботятся. Многие становятся рабами из-за долгов. Обычно за |
| + | четырнадцатилетнюю девочку дают от пятнадцати до тридцати мексиканских долларов. А |
| + | четырехлетнего ребенка часто продают за два доллара. Мусульманские купцы регулярно |
| + | приезжают в провинцию Кансу, где покупают пятилетних детей и вывозят их в Туркестан для |
| + | продажи в семьи. Пересекая провинцию Кансу, мы встретили группу мальчиков и девочек |
| + | младше пяти лет, которых продали богатому мусульманскому купцу. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме шелка и хлопчатобумажных тканей Хотан производит много ковров. Однако древнее |
| + | искусство ткачества ковров давно забыто, и современные фабрики специализируются на |
| + | имитациях под китайские и древнеперсидские ковры. Хотанские ковры встречаются в |
| + | Центральной Азии повсюду. Киргизские и торгутские племена из Джунгарии и Карашара |
| + | наносят ежегодные визиты в Хотан и увозят значительную часть производимых там ковров, |
| + | которые используются для убранства юрт и монастырей. |
| + | |
| + | В последние годы пользуются спросом хотанский войлок, который выделывается на протяжении |
| + | всего южного торгового пути между Яркендом и Хотаном. Однако несомненно то, что центром |
| + | их изготовления является Хотан. Эти войлоки очень пестро раскрашены и имеют броский |
| + | рисунок. Основная торговля ими ведется с Индией, где спрос на них непрерывно растет как |
| + | для индийской торговли, так и для иностранной. В Китайском Туркестане также ценятся |
| + | хотанские овчины, из которых обычно шьют тулупы и зимние шапки. Шкуры эти прекрасно |
| + | выдублены и не уступают меховой продукции Кашгара, Аксу и Куча. |
| + | |
| + | Нынешнее производство нефрита весьма незначительно. Торговля была подорвана во времена |
| + | правления Ма Фу-сина, титая Кашгара, который приказал вывезти опытных мастеров для |
| + | работы по нефриту из Хотана в Кашгар. |
| + | |
| + | Важную роль в Хотанском оазисе играет сельское хозяйство. Поля хорошо орошаются, а |
| + | лессовые наносы оказывают большую поддержку земледелию. |
| + | |
| + | Здесь широко возделываются такие сельскохозяйственные культуры, как пшеница, кукуруза, |
| + | ячмень и рис. Кроме того, оазис славится плодовыми садами, где в изобилии вызревают |
| + | яблоки, груши, абрикосы, персики, виноград. |
| + | |
| + | Для путника, привыкшего к богатству красок горных ландшафтов, современный Хотан кажется |
| + | непривлекательным. Часами вы едете по пыльным улицам, обрамленным тополями. С обеих |
| + | сторон тянутся полуразвалившиеся глиняные строения – усадьбы типа ферм, мазары или |
| + | захоронения, придорожные мечети, нескончаемые кирпичные стены, огораживающие участки |
| + | невозделанной земли. Крытые городские базары распространяют дурной запах, и только |
| + | исключительно сухой климат предотвращает возникновение эпидемий. Базарные ряды узки и |
| + | всегда запружены лотками с фруктами. Тут же, в толпе, бродят разносчики. Большинство |
| + | лавок открыты, и товары выложены на прилавках. Многочисленными лавками управляют |
| + | женщины, торгуя от имени своих мужей. |
| + | |
| + | В часы базарного столпотворения почти невозможно пробраться по улицам, запруженным |
| + | людьми. Караваны лошадей, мулов, ослов и верблюдов могут подолгу загораживать дорогу, а |
| + | когда два каравана столкнутся в каком-нибудь узком месте, то поднимается невообразимый |
| + | гвалт. Местная манера проходить через толпу – пробивать себе дорогу, и этот метод широко |
| + | используется китайскими солдатами. Временами слышишь крики и видишь людей, разбегающихся |
| + | в разные стороны и переворачивающих прилавки. А еще через мгновение в толпу врезается |
| + | повозка, путь для которой прокладывают несколько конных солдат длинными кнутами. |
| + | Удивительно, что никто не возражает против подобного обращения, принимая его как одну из |
| + | прерогатив власти. |
| + | |
| + | Вечером базары красочно освещаются масляными светильниками и бумажными китайскими |
| + | фонарями, создавая очень живописную картину. Что касается общественной жизни Хотана, то |
| + | достаточно сказать, что со времен Марко Поло она почти не претерпела изменений. |
| + | Сведения, оставленные великим венецианцем, и по сей день верно отражают образ жизни и |
| + | обычаи хотанцев. |
| + | |
| + | Наше пребывание в Хотане началось по-деловому: надо было нанести визит губернатору |
| + | (таотаю), сходить в амбань, или магистрат, и сходить к тунг-лингу – офицеру, |
| + | командовавшему хотанским гарнизоном. Мы начали визиты рано утром первого дня пребывания |
| + | в Хотане. Сначала отправились в ямень таотая. Профессор Рерих и я ехали верхом в |
| + | сопровождении нашего китайского переводчика, а несколько беков, или старшин, с |
| + | китайскими солдатами прокладывали впереди путь по узким улицам мусульманской части |
| + | города. При нашем появлении сразу же образовалась толпа, которая следовала за нами до |
| + | ворот резиденции губернатора. По обеим сторонам массивных входных ворот выстроился отряд |
| + | пехотинцев. Солдаты в темно-серых мундирах с красными погонами отдали честь. Затем они, |
| + | опережая нас, бросились к следующим воротам и снова отдали честь. Эта церемония была |
| + | проделана около каждых из трех ворот яменя. Таотай приветствовал нас во дворе своей |
| + | резиденции |
| + | |
| + | Ма Шао-ву, завоеватель Кашгара и убийца титая, был невысокого роста, с орлиными чертами |
| + | лица и вежливыми, спокойными манерами. После обычных церемониальных вопросов о здоровье |
| + | и дороге он предложил нам пройти в просторную комнату для приема. Мы сели вокруг |
| + | столика, на котором был сервирован чай, тогда как подчиненные оставались стоять все |
| + | время. |
| + | |
| + | Комната была обставлена странным и нелепым образом в полукитайском, полуевропейском |
| + | стиле. В углу стояла обычная китайская кровать. В комнате было много оружия, присутствие |
| + | которого свидетельствовало о воинственных наклонностях губернатора. На стенах висели |
| + | немецкие маузеры в деревянных кобурах и казацкие сабли. В одном из углов комнаты было |
| + | выставлено множество наручных часов. Это была уникальная коллекция, собранная |
| + | губернатором у русских беженцев в то время, когда он командовал гарнизоном в Учтурфане, |
| + | городе на русско-туркестанской границе. |
| + | |
| + | За спиной каждого из нас стоял телохранитель губернатора, вооруженный саблей, двумя |
| + | маузерами и опоясанный тяжелым патронташем. В дверях теснилась любопытная толпа тюркских |
| + | аксакалов и помощников таотая. Губернатор произнес краткое приветствие. Он сказал, что |
| + | рад оказать честь таким видным иностранцам, как мы. Он выразил надежду, что наше |
| + | пребывание в Хотане будет длительным, где мы отдохнем после всех трудностей тяжелого |
| + | пути через Каракорум. Он обещал всемерно содействовать экспедиции, и, по его словам, сам |
| + | проявлял большой интерес к прошлому Хотана. Он слышал о замечательной работе, |
| + | проделанной в этом районе Аурелом Стейном, отсюда его желание – всячески помогать |
| + | иностранным ученым в их исследованиях. Во время этого краткого обращения, пересыпанного |
| + | изысканными выражениями, я имел возможность рассмотреть губернатора и припомнить |
| + | недавние события в его беспокойной жизни. |
| + | |
| + | Ма Шао-ву принадлежал к известной семье китайских мусульман. Его отец когда-то был |
| + | заместителем правителя провинции Юньнань и погиб во время восстания против китайского |
| + | владычества. Настоящий губернатор Хотана провел молодость в далекой Юньнани, потом был |
| + | изгнан в знойные пустыни Западного Кансу и Синьцзяна. Из этой семьи вышли несколько |
| + | выдающихся личностей, занимавших высокие должности в провинциальной администрации. |
| + | |
| + | Одним из них был Ма Фу-син – покойный кашгарский титай, а «сильный человек» Синина – |
| + | генерал Ма, принадлежал к этому же роду. На протяжении многих лет нынешний губернатор |
| + | Хотана командовал гарнизоном в Учтурфане. Во время этого периода глубоко укоренившаяся |
| + | вражда вспыхнула между ним и его старшим родственником – титаем Кашгара. |
| + | |
| + | Ма титай являлся характерной фигурой китайской администрации нового доминиона. Это |
| + | был деспот, не знавший пощады ни к китайцам, ни к местным тюркам. Он выстроил себе |
| + | огромный дворец в китайском городе, или кашгарском Ханьчьене, и владел несколькими |
| + | летними резиденциями в окрестностях Кашгара. Он построил мосты и дороги и посадил вдоль |
| + | них деревья. Местному жителю, который осмеливался задеть дерево своей повозкой, отрубали |
| + | на обеих руках пальцы. Титай имел собственные предприятия вблизи Хотана, интересовался |
| + | перегонкой нефти и держал большую фабрику по обработке нефрита, где работали лучшие |
| + | хотанские мастера. Он безжалостным способом избавлялся от своих соперников в |
| + | коммерческих делах. Несчастных вызывали во дворец губернатора и там их казнили или |
| + | увечили, отрубая руки. Сейчас многие из этих жертв умерли, но некоторые все еще просят |
| + | милостыню на кашгарских базарах, являясь свидетелями грубого деспотизма. |
| + | |
| + | Титай славился своим гаремом, в котором было пятьдесят жен. Любая хорошенькая |
| + | крестьянская девушка жила под постоянной угрозой быть вырванной из своей семьи и попасть |
| + | во дворец губернатора. Когда титай уставал от своих жен, он обычно дарил их друзьям и |
| + | офицерам, отличавшимся у него на службе. Он был известен своими необузданными |
| + | развлечениями и особенно пристрастием к крепкой китайской водке, которую всегда пил за |
| + | обедом. |
| + | |
| + | В течение нескольких лет, предшествовавших его падению в 1924 году, он лелеял надежду |
| + | стать независимым правителем Кашгара, и его отношения с Янь Цен-синем, |
| + | генерал-губернатором провинции Синьцзян, были очень напряженными. |
| + | |
| + | В 1924 году нависла опасность войны. Прошли слухи, что титай замышляет восстание против |
| + | генерал-губернатора, и провинциальное правительство решило положить конец его опасной |
| + | деятельности. В Урумчи была собрана большая сила – около 18000 всадников и пехотинцев, а |
| + | командование возложили на Эрх таоиня из Аксу, одного из самых способных областных |
| + | начальников Синьцзяна. Войско двинулось на Кашгар в феврале 1924 года, однако не следует |
| + | думать, что в сражении принимали участие все 18000 человек. Такое большое число отрядов |
| + | несомненно числилось только на бумаге, и войско, прибывшее в Кашгар, состояло только из |
| + | 500 человек. У властей Синьцзяна есть любопытный способ подсчитывать свои военные силы. |
| + | Количество солдат определяют не по числу сабель или штыков, а по количеству фуражек. |
| + | Многие из командиров полков имеют в подчинении солдат только на бумаге. У них нет |
| + | солдат, но есть для них фуражки. И эти фуражки подсчитываются и фигурируют в официальных |
| + | отчетах. |
| + | |
| + | Ма Шао-ву, командовавший гарнизоном в Учтурфане, решил обратиться к генерал-губернатору |
| + | за разрешением принять участие в военной экспедиции. С этой целью он покрыл расстояние |
| + | от Учтурфана до Урумчи, столицы провинции, в поразительно короткий срок – за семь дней. |
| + | Просьба его была удовлетворена, и он поспешил назад, чтобы возглавить авангард |
| + | экспедиционных войск. Окольными путями, через горы, шел отряд Ма Шао-ву и 1 июня 1924 |
| + | года занял Кашгар. Солдаты титая не были готовы к отражению нападения и оказали |
| + | незначительное сопротивление. Ханьчьенг был быстро занят, и солдаты Ма Шао-ву обрушились |
| + | на дворец титая. Сын титая, занимавший пост хсиех-тая, сражался храбро и пал во дворе |
| + | своей цитадели. Говорят, что пожилой диктатор упорно сопротивлялся, но в конце концов |
| + | был обезоружен и арестован в одной из комнат. Во время боя он был ранен штыком в правую |
| + | руку. Пленника вывели через главные ворота крепости и там распяли на деревянном кресте. |
| + | Ма Шао-ву лично командовал карательным отрядом. |
| + | |
| + | По словам очевидцев, торжествующий Ма Шао-ву приблизился к распятому титаю и закричал: |
| + | «Ты узнаешь меня, Ма Фу-син?» – «Ма Шао-ву», – простонал раненый титай. После этого |
| + | весьма краткого диалога Ма Шао-ву выстрелил в титая из револьвера. Хлынувшая из раны |
| + | кровь забрызгала одежду победителя, что у китайцев считается плохим предзнаменованием. |
| + | Возбужденные солдаты стали стрелять в титая без приказа своего командира, стоявшего |
| + | между ними и раненым, и чуть было не убили его самого. |
| + | |
| + | В течение нескольких дней труп наместника был выставлен для глумления. Тысячи людей |
| + | стекались сюда, чтобы отомстить за себя. Они плевали в лицо мертвеца, рвали его бороду и |
| + | швыряли в него мусор и камни. После этого тело исчезло, и дальнейшая судьба его |
| + | неизвестна. |
| + | |
| + | Ма Шао-ву стал хозяином города, и иностранцы говорят, что он с помощью ряда суровых мер |
| + | восстановил порядок и покончил с разбоем. Очевидно, самым заветным желанием Ма Шао-ву |
| + | было править в Кашгаре титаем, но генерал-губернатор провинции сознавал опасность |
| + | возвышения этого офицера и решил сослать его в более отдаленный район. В результате в |
| + | Хотане создали местное самоуправление, а Ма Шао-ву назначили таоинем района, |
| + | простирающегося от Каргалыка до далекого Дуньхуана на границе Кансу. |
| + | |
| + | Эрх таоинь со своим 18000 войском никогда не доходил до Кашгара, и говорят, что между |
| + | ним и Ма Шао-ву была вражда. Во время нашего пребывания в Хотане мы слышали о том, что |
| + | Ма Шао-ву получил приказ отвести свои войска обратно в Урумчи, но отказался подчиниться |
| + | и оставил их в Хотане, чем и объяснялось присутствие здесь множества солдат. |
| + | |
| + | Такова история подвига Ма Шао-ву, благодаря которому он приобрел известность во всей |
| + | обширной провинции. Это была семейная вражда, длившаяся много лет, и последний акт |
| + | драмы, видимо, еще не сыгран. В течение всего нашего пребывания в Хотане таотай опасался |
| + | выступления генерала Ма из Синина, жаждавшего отомстить за смерть своего двоюродного |
| + | брата. Говорили, что в Тунь-хуане накапливаются войска, а генерал Ма ведет переговоры с |
| + | провинциальным правительством Ланчоу о совместном наступлении на Синьцзян. |
| + | |
| + | Вот все, что мы знали о Ма Шао-ву, когда впервые встретили его в Хотане. Человек |
| + | незаурядных способностей и личной отваги, но мстительный и интриган, он был изгнан в |
| + | далекий оазис, отделенный от других населенных пунктов Синьцзяна обширными |
| + | пространствами пустыни. |
| + | |
| + | Наша первая встреча с ним была вполне дружественной, и у нас были все основания |
| + | успешного пребывания в Хотане. Мы откланялись губернатору и посетили городской |
| + | магистрат, где беседовали с типичным китайским чиновником внутреннего Китая, чутко |
| + | уловившим настроение губернатора и вызвавшимся всемерно содействовать экспедиции. После |
| + | этого навестили тунг-линга, или коменданта гарнизона в Хотане. Это был молодой человек с |
| + | приятными манерами, который во время наших последующих затруднений занимал нейтральную |
| + | позицию. Повсюду нас встречали с церемониями и почетным караулом. |
| + | |
| + | Проведя утро в деловых визитах, мы вернулись в лагерь. Днем к нам приехал Ма таотай в |
| + | сопровождении чих-шиха, или члена городского магистрата и тунг-линга. Губернатор прибыл |
| + | в закрытом экипаже зеленого цвета, отделанного изнутри фиолетовым бархатом, и |
| + | запряженный тройкой лошадей. Экипаж сопровождали на вороных конях сорок кавалеристов из |
| + | личной охраны губернатора. Говорят, что таотай содержит ее на собственные средства. Все |
| + | кавалеристы были прекрасно вооружены и являлись верховными командующими китайской армии. |
| + | Губернатор еще раз заверил нас, что в Хотане мы можем чувствовать себя как дома. |
| + | |
| + | Оставаться в саду Бадруддин-хана с большим караваном было невозможно, и мы решили |
| + | подыскать для нашей штаб-квартиры более подходящее место. Вскоре начались затруднения, |
| + | вызванные, вне всяких сомнений, происками властей. Нам посчастливилось найти просторный |
| + | и красивый летний дом, принадлежавший покойному афганскому аксакалу в Хотане, |
| + | расположенный в трех милях от города. Мы сразу же решили здесь обосноваться. Здание было |
| + | построено в персидском стиле и пустовало после смерти владельца, так как вдова жила в |
| + | городе. Мы сообщили о нашем решении местному переводчику Керим-беку, прикрепленному к |
| + | экспедиции хотанскими властями. Однако он не одобрил наш выбор и намекнул, что |
| + | губернатор желает, чтобы мы расположились поближе к его резиденции. Все это было |
| + | странно, и мы послали нашего китайского секретаря Цая в губернаторский ямень для |
| + | выяснения вопроса. Он вскоре возвратился, сообщив, что губернатор не имеет ничего против |
| + | того, что мы остановимся в летнем доме бывшего афганского аксакала и что бек неверно |
| + | истолковал его распоряжение. Мы пригласили Керим-бека, чтобы обсудить детали предстоящей |
| + | аренды, но он отказался от посредничества, сославшись на то, что с семьей аксакала очень |
| + | трудно иметь дело. |
| + | |
| + | После этого разговора прошло несколько дней, заполненных безуспешными попытками найти |
| + | какое-либо приемлемое решение. Именно в эти дни мы познакомились с местным торговцем |
| + | Худай Берды-баем, ставшим нашим заботливым другом на все время, пока у нас возникали |
| + | трудности с местными властями. Дело с арендой дома принимало, по-видимому, безнадежный |
| + | оборот, и мы решили вести переговоры сами с членами семьи афганского аксакала. К |
| + | великому удивлению, мы обнаружили, что им очень хотелось бы сдать дом в аренду, но |
| + | кто-то просто пытался отговорить нас обосноваться там. Однако мы так и не смогли |
| + | установить, кто же был этой тенью, постоянно омрачавшей дни пребывания экспедиции в |
| + | Хотане. В конце концов мы подписали соглашение, внесли плату за месяц вперед и, к ужасу |
| + | Керим-бека, обрели пристанище. |
| + | |
| + | Обосновавшись на новом месте, мы стали обдумывать планы научных и художественных работ |
| + | как в самом Хотане, так и в его окрестностях. Следовало изучить древний район Хотана – |
| + | Йоткан, где время от времени оползни вскрывали разные предметы и остатки древних |
| + | строений. Мы также планировали короткую экспедицию в мазар имама Джафара Садыка и в |
| + | район местонахождения ступы Равак, где перемещающиеся пески открывали интересные |
| + | предметы. |
| + | |
| + | Нашим ладакцам, этим замечательным горцам, трудно было привыкнуть к новым условиям в |
| + | Хотане, и мы решили отпустить их домой, предварительно хорошо вознаградив за усердие. |
| + | Позднее мы узнали, что все они благополучно достигли Леха, но на перевале Санджу их |
| + | застиг сильный снежный буран. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме занятий археологией профессор Рерих намеревался продолжить работу над своими |
| + | картинами у подножия гор Карангу Таг и в окрестностях Хотана. Думали мы также и о |
| + | дальнейшем путешествии в Центральный Китай, и уже сейчас следовало приступить к |
| + | формированию нового каравана. В разгар организации работы над экспедицией собрались |
| + | грозовые тучи. Наши многочисленные друзья среди китайцев и местных жителей предупредили |
| + | нас, что на таотая оказывают давление некоторые его советники, которые, по-видимому, |
| + | «плетут нити заговора против экспедиции». Повсюду ходили странные слухи, но никто не |
| + | знал, откуда они распространяются. |
| + | |
| + | Некоторое время все было спокойно. Таотай дал обед, состоявший из 50 блюд, в честь |
| + | профессора Н.К.Рериха, на котором присутствовали все местные чиновники, а также господин |
| + | К. Молдавак, армянин, проживавший уже много лет в Хотане, один из самых близких друзей |
| + | губернатора. Г-жа Рерих не смогла присутствовать на приеме, и весь обед из пятидесяти |
| + | блюд был отправлен к ней адъютантом губернатора. Визит продолжался с трех часов дня до |
| + | позднего вечера. Китайцы занимались своими настольными играми, причем каждый проигравший |
| + | обязан был выпить стакан крепкой китайской водки. Таотай развлекал гостей рассказами о |
| + | своих подвигах и показывал фотографии прирученных леопардов, которыми очень гордился. |
| + | |
| + | После обеда некоторые из присутствующих начали петь китайские баллады. К сожалению, |
| + | певцы были не очень искусны и мы не смогли по-настоящему оценить их пение. Обед |
| + | закончился поздно вечером. Нас проводили во двор, причем сам губернатор возглавлял |
| + | процессию, впереди которой шли солдаты с китайскими бумажными фонарями в руках. У |
| + | внутренних ворот яменя стояли оседланные лошади. Сопровождаемые двадцатью кавалеристами |
| + | из личной охраны губернатора, каждый из которых держал фонарь, мы быстро ехали по улицам |
| + | Хотана, заполненным толпами несмотря на поздний час. В какой-то момент вороные кони |
| + | эскорта испуганно шарахнулись в сторону и перевернули несколько фруктовых стоек. Стоял |
| + | чудесный прохладный вечер, воздух пустыни, обычно мутный, прояснился, стал прозрачным, и |
| + | на его фоне к югу от Хотана можно было видеть отчетливые контуры гор Карангу Таг, |
| + | покрытых снегом. |
| + | |
| + | В последующие дни наши отношения с властями внешне оставались дружественными, несмотря |
| + | на растущие признаки напряжения в окружении губернатора. |
| + | |
| + | Спустя несколько дней после приема заболел младший сын губернатора, и г-же Рерих |
| + | пришлось оказать ему помощь. Мальчик вскоре поправился. Спустя некоторое время |
| + | губернатор намекнул, что доброта ее спасла нас от многих неприятностей в Хотане и на |
| + | маршруте. |
| + | |
| + | В Хотане с населением в несколько тысяч человек не было ни одного врача. Ближайший |
| + | европейский доктор жил в Яркенде. Обычно посылали срочное послание, приглашающее доктора |
| + | Нистрема из шведской миссии в Яркенде. Путь до Хотана у доктора занимал обычно около |
| + | пяти суток езды в китайской повозке. |
| + | |
| + | Мы обратились в магистрат города за разрешением на зарисовки и фотографирование самого |
| + | города и его окрестностей. В разрешении было отказано. Нам сказали, что они обратились |
| + | за инструкциями к генерал-губернатору провинции. Мы решили заявить протест таотаю и |
| + | напомнить об его обещании содействовать работе экспедиции. |
| + | |
| + | Тем временем из Урумчи и Кашгара прибыл новый судья, и повсюду поползли тревожные слухи. |
| + | Новый судья очень враждебно относился к иностранцам, хотя и кичился своими современными |
| + | взглядами. |
| + | |
| + | Спустя несколько дней после его прибытия к нам приехал губернатор со всей своей свитой, |
| + | чтобы поблагодарить г-жу Рерих за помощь во время болезни сына. Они приехали в |
| + | сопровождении вооруженной охраны. С самого начала разговора мы почувствовали, что у |
| + | таотая и нового судьи что-то на уме. Мы пригласили их на чай в мою комнату и закрыли |
| + | дверь, чтобы никто не мешал. |
| + | |
| + | Ма таотай и судья казались смущенными и неприветливыми. Они очень внимательно осмотрели |
| + | комнату и обменялись краткими репликами насчет ящиков, сложенных вдоль стены. Внезапно |
| + | таотай кашлянул три раза, дверь распахнулась, и комнату заполнили солдаты, которые |
| + | выстроились вдоль стен. Комната приняла вид суда. Мы очень удивились и выразили |
| + | недоумение по поводу поведения губернатора. Таотай улыбнулся и предложил не обращать на |
| + | солдат никакого внимания. Я понял, что Ма Шао-ву боялся оставаться с нами один. |
| + | |
| + | Разговор продолжался на общие темы, когда новый судья вдруг заинтересовался нашими |
| + | паспортами. Мы еще раз предъявили свои пекинские паспорта, пересланные нам в Индию |
| + | китайцем Вай-Чао-пу через г-на Чэнг Ло, китайского посла в Пекине. Позиция китайцев была |
| + | необъяснима. Они насмешливо заметили, что наши паспорта недействительны в этой провинции |
| + | и что пекинское правительство ничего не сообщало о нас в Синьцзян и что г-н Чэнг Ло не |
| + | имел права давать нам разрешение на въезд. Китайцы приняли угрожающий вид, стали |
| + | жестикулировать, плевать на пол и ухмыляться. Это была очень неожиданная перемена, но мы |
| + | решили не уступать и сказали им, что они не имеют права угрожать экспедиции и |
| + | неуважительно относиться к паспортам. Мы предупредили, что безотлагательно свяжемся с |
| + | британским консулом в Кашгаре и потребуем у генерал-губернатора Синьцзяна разрешения |
| + | продолжить свою работу. После бурной дискуссии таотай со своей свитой отправился в |
| + | Хотан. |
| + | |
| + | Г-н Чанг, новый судья, приехал к нам на следующий день и сообщил, что от |
| + | генерал-губернатора получена телеграмма, приказывающая нашей экспедиции вернуться в |
| + | Индию через перевал Санджу. Однако это было невозможно, так как перевал уже давно |
| + | завалило снегом. Мы сразу поняли, что телеграмма была подделана в ямене губернатора. Во |
| + | время визита судьи произошел эпизод, развеселивший наших людей. Судья торжественно |
| + | прибыл в сопровождении большого эскорта охранников, поджидавшего его около дома. Чтобы |
| + | не пугать китайцев, своего тибетского мастифа [Тумбала мы отвели в сад и привязали его |
| + | там к дереву. Вдруг тишину взорвал отчаянный вопль, за которым последовало стремительное |
| + | топанье. Оказывается, разорвав цепь, пес медленно направился ко входу в дом. |
| + | Полицейские, испугавшись его вида, убежали, а некоторые даже забаррикадировались в |
| + | ванной. Дверь в нашу комнату была открыта, и мы увидели, как пес поднимается по |
| + | ступенькам террасы. Судья, потеряв самообладание, вскочил на стул, на котором сидел, и |
| + | уже приготовился прыгнуть на стол, где был приготовлен чай. Не сразу мы смогли убедить |
| + | испуганного человека, что в нашем присутствии собака не опасна. |
| + | |
| + | После визита судьи мы отправили письмо майору Гиллану – британскому консулу в Кашгаре – |
| + | с просьбой о содействии экспедиции. Письмо было послано через хотанское почтовое |
| + | отделение, но пришло обратно с припиской, где было сказано, что таотай отдал |
| + | распоряжение перехватывать всю нашу корреспонденцию в Британское консульство в Кашгаре. |
| + | Наши письма и телеграммы в Нью-Йорк, Париж и Пекин тоже возвращались обратно. Положение |
| + | становилось серьезным. Мы полностью отдавали себе отчет в том, что это только начало |
| + | длительной кампании преследований, бесконечных переговоров и оскорблений. Экспедиция |
| + | оказалась совершенно отрезанной от внешнего мира и должна была искать хоть какой-нибудь |
| + | способ дать о себе знать. |
| + | |
| + | Несколько торговцев вызвались отвезти наши письма в консульство в Кашгар. Кроме того, |
| + | нам предложили свои услуги двое доброжелательных калмыков, которые придумали |
| + | бесхитростный план, основанный на знании ими беспечности местных чиновников. План |
| + | состоял в том, что один из калмыков стоит с письмом в руках около почты. В последний |
| + | момент, когда почтальон уже седлает лошадь, калмык подходит к нему и вручает ему письмо |
| + | в Британское консульство с адресом, написанным по-тюркски и по-китайски. Китайский |
| + | почтальон сердито восклицает: «Почему вы всегда опаздываете?» – и, не глядя на адрес, |
| + | бросает письмо в одну из сумок. Такой способ отправки писем себя оправдал, и они |
| + | доходили до Кашгара очень быстро. Ответ приходил через шестнадцать дней обычно по |
| + | частному каналу. |
| + | |
| + | 29 декабря 1925 года к нам нагрянули с обыском новый судья и несколько младших офицеров, |
| + | представителей таотая не было. Нам было сказано, что в экспедиции имеется огромное |
| + | количество боеприпасов и что-то вроде «стреляющего колеса», с помощью которого можно |
| + | уничтожить весь хотанский гарнизон и все население Хотана менее чем за десять минут. |
| + | Квадратные ящики с консервами от агентства Кокбурн в Кашмире вызвали подозрение в том, |
| + | что мы везем огромное количество боеприпасов. В итоге все наше вооружение, состоявшее из |
| + | двух винтовок, одного двуствольного ружья, трех револьверов и одного ящика боеприпасов, |
| + | было опечатано и увезено. Профессор Рерих в своей книге «Алтай – Гималаи» подробно |
| + | описал этот нелепый бесплодный обыск. |
| + | |
| + | Мы решили сразу же покинуть Хотан, чтобы отправиться в Кашгар и послать оттуда |
| + | телеграмму генерал-губернатору. Мы также намеревались вернуть оружие, без которого |
| + | нечего было и пытаться пройти через районы Центрального Китая, кишащие грабителями. |
| + | Власти дали свое молчаливое согласие, и мы наняли караван верблюдов, чтобы отвезти багаж |
| + | в Кашгар. Снова двор нашего дома заполнился людьми и стоящими на коленях верблюдами. |
| + | Картина предстоящего отъезда радовала сердца путешественников. |
| + | |
| + | 1 января все было готово к отправлению, как вдруг явился представитель таотая и холодно |
| + | сообщил: «Таотай приказывает вам ехать в Тунь-хуан в Кансу, а не в Кашгар». Мы пытались |
| + | возражать, сказав, что у нас отобрали оружие, что в кашгарском почтовом отделении нас |
| + | ждут денежные переводы и мы ждем ответа на посланные телеграммы. Однако все наши доводы |
| + | были оставлены без малейшего внимания, и чиновник тупо повторял одно и то же: «Ма |
| + | таджень передумал и приказывает вашей экспедиции идти через пустыню к Тунь-хуану». Потом |
| + | он все-таки сказал, что нам следует поехать к таотаю и переговорить с ним лично. Так мы |
| + | и сделали. Состоялся долгий и скучный разговор, во время которого мы настоятельно |
| + | пытались получить письменное объяснение действий таотая. Мы сидели перед таотаем за |
| + | маленьким столиком и видели солдат, стоявших позади него. Они строили гримасы и |
| + | указывали пальцами на голову своего повелителя. |
| + | |
| + | Таотай оставался непреклонным в своем решении задержать нас в Хотане. Трудно сказать, |
| + | что заставило его изменить свое отношение к нам. Одни говорили, что им овладевал дух |
| + | убитого кашгарского титая и тогда он терял контроль над собой, другие повторяли рассказ |
| + | о том, как кто-то однажды усомнился в умственных способностях таотая. Так или иначе, но |
| + | было ясно, что положение наше очень серьезное и надо найти какое-то решение. |
| + | |
| + | Вернувшись домой, мы отправили письмо консулу в Кашгар, в котором информировали о |
| + | создавшемся положении и просили его связаться с генерал-губернатором Урумчи. Теперь нас |
| + | часто посещал г-н Чанг из магистрата Хотана. Каждый день он доставлял какую-нибудь |
| + | поразительную телеграмму с приказом о нашем немедленном аресте и высылке. Так случалось, |
| + | что каждый раз, когда он приезжал, мы предъявляли ему то письмо от майора Гиллана, то |
| + | телеграмму из Америки. Друзья делали все возможное, чтобы помочь нам выехать из Хотана. |
| + | |
| + | Днем мы либо работали в нашей штаб-квартире, либо вели переговоры с местными властями. |
| + | Переговоры отнимали большую часть времени, т.к. каждый визит к губернатору или в |
| + | магистрат длился от пяти до шести часов. |
| + | |
| + | 20 января мы получили дружеское письмо от майора Гиллана, в котором он сообщал, что |
| + | генерал-губернатор распорядился немедленно выпустить нас из Хотана. Это были приятные |
| + | новости, и все члены экспедиции радовались предстоящему переходу в Кашгар. |
| + | |
| + | Вечером того же дня приехал наш друг Худай Берды-бай, который принес новость, что из |
| + | Урумчи пришло письмо с разрешением идти в Кашгар. Это был беспрецедентный случай, когда |
| + | приказ генерал-губернатора оглашало частное лицо. Губернатор дискредитировал себя и не |
| + | мог передать приказ лично или через судью. Власти продолжали хранить молчание, и только |
| + | начальник гарнизона и старый амбань прислали свои визитные карточки с добрыми |
| + | пожеланиями счастливого путешествия в Кашгар. К нам приехал офицер в чине шаовэя, или |
| + | лейтенанта, чтобы справиться о дне нашего отправления. Ему было приказано предоставить |
| + | конвой солдат сопровождать нас в Яркенд. Казалось, что китайцы смущены и как-то осознали |
| + | свое неправильное поведение по отношению к экспедиции. Действия местных хотанских |
| + | властей едва не помешали осуществлению наших планов. |
| + | |
| + | Мы спешили с приготовлениями. Большая часть багажа была уже давно упакована. Теперь мы |
| + | нуждались только в надежном караван-баши. Худай Берды-бай рекомендовал нанять Темур-бая |
| + | – караванщика, разбогатевшего на перевозках товаров из Хотана в Лех. Темур-бай обещал |
| + | поставить экспедиции семьдесят четыре вьючные лошади по шесть китайских долларов за |
| + | каждую, учитывая, что мы придем в Кашгар на четырнадцатый день пути. Помимо вьючных |
| + | лошадей нам пришлось нанять два китайских экипажа, или ма-фа, за двадцать пять долларов. |
| + | Один из них предназначался для нашего китайского переводчика Цая и ящика оружия, |
| + | возвращенного нам накануне отъезда. Несчастный Цай пристрастился к курению опиума, |
| + | страдая от оскорбительного отношения местных чиновников. Благородный старик с горечью |
| + | говорил о возмутительных действиях хотанских чиновников. В результате курения он |
| + | настолько ослаб, что не мог держаться в седле и был вынужден ехать в экипаже. Цай |
| + | тщательно скрывал свою пагубную привычку и старался курить только ночью. |
| + | |
| + | Во втором экипаже в сопровождении слуги томился тибетский мастиф Тумбал. |
| + | |
| + | Три месяца задержки подошли к концу, и мы думали о новых краях, ждавших нас впереди. Во |
| + | дворе дома собрались приветливые жители, пришедшие проститься с нами. Несмотря на |
| + | трехмесячную задержку, мы приобрели здесь немало верных друзей, и приятно было выразить |
| + | нашу благодарность всем, кто содействовал экспедиции во время трудной зимы в Хотане. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 5 |
| + | |
| + | Ранним утром 28 января 1926 года наш двор и сад заполнили вьючные лошади и караванщики в |
| + | тяжелых овчинах и темно-красных чаругах – картина знакомая каждому, кто путешествовал с |
| + | караванами по районам Азии. Царила суета, и прошло целых пять часов, прежде чем караван |
| + | тронулся в путь. Палатки и часть лагерного снаряжения надо было отправить заранее, для |
| + | этой цели лучшие лошади были взяты в лагерный отряд. Этот отряд оставил лагерь |
| + | последним, а прибыл в новый лагерь первым. Караванщикам, главным образом хотанским |
| + | тюркам, явно не хватало инициативы, и они исполняли свои обязанности с поразительной |
| + | небрежностью. |
| + | |
| + | Большинство вьючных лошадей были крупными животными из Яркенда, способными перевозить |
| + | около двух сотен футов груза. Их общее состояние было хорошим, и мы надеялись прибыть в |
| + | Кашгар вовремя. Туркестанские вьючные седла гораздо лучше деревянных вьючных седел из |
| + | Ладака и Тибета. Они состоят из двух толстых кусков материи, на которых крепится |
| + | седельная подушка у-образной формы, сделанная из овчины или сукна, хорошо набитая |
| + | соломой. Груз крепится к седлу канатами, свитыми из верблюжьей или овечьей шерсти. |
| + | Путешественников предупреждают не применять пеньковые веревки китайского и европейского |
| + | производства, так как они причиняют неприятности. Очень хороши веревки, сделанные из |
| + | верблюжьей шерсти, а из овечьей шерсти намного хуже. |
| + | |
| + | Нескольким всадникам под командованием шао-вая, или лейтенанта, было приказано |
| + | сопровождать нас до Яркенда, следующего занятого войсками оазиса вдоль южного торгового |
| + | пути. Прибыв, все солдаты выстроились в ряд перед зданием, лейтенант держал красную |
| + | визитную карточку старшего офицера в своей поднятой руке. Все всадники были старше |
| + | пятидесяти, они были одеты в широкие серые халаты и меховые шапки с большими ушами, |
| + | которые при необходимости застегивались под подбородком. Их вооружение состояло из |
| + | старых маузеров. У офицера была старинная китайская сабля. Нас очень удивил возраст этих |
| + | вояк. Мы поинтересовались, не собираются ли они в отставку. Ветераны ответили, что в |
| + | кавалеристы их произвели недавно за доблестную службу. В Синьцзяне молодой солдат обязан |
| + | служить в пехоте, пока ему позволяет возраст, и только спустя много лет, а также если он |
| + | отличился, его производят в чин всадника, или мапина. В Синьцзяне, как и во многих |
| + | районах Китая, лошадь является лишь средством передвижения. Китайского кавалериста учат |
| + | сидеть на лошади, но никогда не обучают искусству верховой езды. Бека из Караши и двух |
| + | дарг также послали сопровождать нас в поездке. Они показывали дорогу, сопровождая нас до |
| + | Гума-базара – ближайшего административного центра на Хотано-Яркендском пути. |
| + | |
| + | Мы выступили около полудня и быстро миновали мусульманские и китайские районы Хотана. |
| + | Был базарный день, и улицы заполнила пестрая толпа селян. Первая остановка была в Заве. |
| + | Караван с грузом прибыл только ночью, и мы вынуждены были провести несколько часов в |
| + | ожидании в саду постоялого двора. Ночь выдалась холодная, и мы согревались у огромного |
| + | лагерного костра, разведенного местными жителями. Перед отъездом из Хотана наш китайский |
| + | переводчик Цай Су Ю сшил желтый флаг, на который нанес буквы «Ло» – сокращенное |
| + | официальное название нашей экспедиции. Флаг мы доверили дарге, который ехал впереди и |
| + | устанавливал его в местах наших будущих стоянок. |
| + | |
| + | В Заве мы обнаружили флаг на крыше постоялого двора. Как оказалось, Цай Су Ю поступил |
| + | очень мудро: поскольку здесь питают больше уважения к куску материи, чем к нашим |
| + | пекинским паспортам, он избавил нас от многих малозначительных формальностей с |
| + | документами. |
| + | |
| + | Вечером мы обнаружили, что наши солдаты и некоторые китайцы – заядлые курильщики опиума. |
| + | Они поздно вставали и только всем мешали. Курильщики опиума – большое несчастье для |
| + | экспедиции, и мы решили при первом же удобном случае от них избавиться. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 6 |
| + | |
| + | Великий северный путь в Синьцзян часто описывался путешественниками. В два легких |
| + | перехода мы достигли Файзабада – маленького городка с китайским управлением и небольшим |
| + | военным гарнизоном. Путь был однообразен: повсюду песок, покрытый соляной коркой, |
| + | песчаные дюны, заросли, кое-где ивовые рощи и пыльные грязные деревушки. Файзабад – |
| + | последнее крупное поселение Кашгарского оазиса, дальше простираются пески. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 7 |
| + | |
| + | Столица Синьцзяна встретила нас холодом и ледяными ветрами, продувающими насквозь |
| + | близлежащую равнину. Поскольку наши дом и подворье не могли вместить всех сотрудников, |
| + | грузы и лошадей, то мы решили подыскать более просторное жилище. Это оказалось трудным и |
| + | почти безнадежным делом в густонаселенном Урумчи. |
| + | |
| + | Наш первый день прошел в официальных визитах. Чтобы ознакомиться с ситуацией в городе, в |
| + | первую очередь мы посетили министра почты Синьцзяна мистера Кавальери, итальянца по |
| + | происхождению. Дорога к его комфортабельному дому, расположенному недалеко от резиденции |
| + | генерал-губернатора, проходила через русскую концессию и мусульманский квартал Урумчи. |
| + | Снег растаял, улицы утопали в неописуемой грязи, прилипавшей к копытам лошадей и колесам |
| + | повозок. Пестрая толпа заполняла городские базары и лавки. |
| + | |
| + | Повсюду сновали китайцы и их мусульманские соотечественники, тунганы. В Урумчи имеется |
| + | огромное поселение тунган и до недавнего времени они играли важную роль при дворе |
| + | губернатора. Однако, в связи с воинственными намерениями генерала Ма из Синина, |
| + | синьцзянских тунган заподозрили в заговоре, и многие из них вынуждены были бежать из |
| + | столицы, опасаясь гнева губернатора Яна. |
| + | |
| + | Среди уличной толпы выделялось огромное количество конных киргизов, прибывших в город из |
| + | соседних районов. На всех были одеты своеобразные, шлемоподобные меховые шапки, тяжелые |
| + | овчинные шубы и кожаные сапоги. Солдаты осаждали многочисленные рестораны и чайханы, |
| + | проводя последние дни в столице в азартных играх и пьянстве. Среди толпы военных |
| + | привлекали внимание калмыки своей выправкой и независимым видом, столь характерными для |
| + | людей, привыкших к дисциплине. |
| + | |
| + | Это был типичный, обнесенный стеной, китайский город с бесконечными рядами лавок, |
| + | украшенными рекламными надписями на красной бумаге и толпами людей в черных одеждах. |
| + | Лавки были заполнены всевозможными китайскими и даже европейскими товарами, |
| + | доставляемыми в Урумчи караванами верблюдов, проделывающих долгий путь в течение шести |
| + | месяцев по монгольской пустыне Гоби. Среди лавчонок выделялись похоронные бюро с |
| + | выставленными вдоль улицы огромными деревянными гробами, выкрашенными в красный цвет. |
| + | Каждый респектабельный китаец должен быть похоронен в своей родной провинции, и эти |
| + | огромные саркофаги служили для транспортировки тел умерших торговцев и других членов |
| + | китайской колонии в отдаленные уголки Китая. |
| + | |
| + | Господин Кавальери оказался приятным человеком, известным тем, что оказывал помощь |
| + | многим американским и европейским путешественникам. Прослышав о наших затруднениях в |
| + | Хотане, он рекомендовал нам персонально решить все вопросы с генерал-губернатором, чтобы |
| + | навсегда исключить возможность дальнейших осложнений. Мы рассказали ему о трудностях, |
| + | которые испытывали на всем протяжении нашей научной и художественной деятельности, и что |
| + | местные власти не в состоянии отличить живопись от картографии. Господин Кавальери |
| + | рассказал о моем старом друге господине Аллене Присте, который гостил у него в течение |
| + | нескольких недель, а затем из Синьцзяна отправился в Сибирь и Китай. Он упорно советовал |
| + | нам идти в Пекин через Чугучак и Сибирь, так как считал, что для иностранцев это |
| + | единственный безопасный путь. На границе Кансу происходили волнения, и на дороге были |
| + | вероятны нападения со стороны многочисленных банд разбойников и дезертиров, сбежавших из |
| + | армий, дислоцированных вдоль дорог. |
| + | |
| + | Господин Кавальери послал записку личному секретарю генерал-губернатора Чу Та-хеню с |
| + | просьбой немедленно приехать, и тот сразу же прибыл. Чу оказался приятным молодым |
| + | человеком, хорошо владевшим русским и немного английским. |
| + | |
| + | Мы сразу приобрели в его лице верного друга, который старался помочь нам во время всего |
| + | пребывания в Урумчи и всегда с удовольствием сопровождал нас на официальных визитах и |
| + | переговорах. Мы рассказали ему подробно о наших злоключениях в Хотане и Карашаре, после |
| + | чего он, всплеснув руками, сказал, что будет трудно убедить генерал-губернатора начать |
| + | расследование. Весьма вероятно, что местные власти превысили свои полномочия, но это |
| + | обычное явление для администрации Синьцзяна. Господин Чу сказал нам, что |
| + | генерал-губернатор очень обеспокоен притеснениями экспедиции в его провинции и намерен |
| + | встретиться с нами лично. |
| + | |
| + | Распрощавшись с господином Кавальери, мы отправились вместе с Чу Та-хенем к |
| + | генерал-губернатору и Фэн Яо-ханю, занимавшему должность верховного представителя по |
| + | иностранным делам в местном правительстве Синьцзяна. |
| + | |
| + | Резиденция губернатора состояла из нескольких изолированных построек и огороженных |
| + | дворов. Ворота тщательно охранялись хорошо вооруженными патрульными. Около одних ворот |
| + | мы увидели груду солдатских фуражек, приготовленных для раздачи рекрутам. В другом месте |
| + | – выстроившуюся пехотную полуроту с многочисленными знаменами и несколькими трубачами. |
| + | Отряд готовился выступить в Син-син-ся. Губернаторский ямень показался нам очень ветхим: |
| + | стекла во многих окнах первого этажа были выбиты, их заменяла грязная бумага и тряпки. |
| + | Зато во дворах слонялось множество слуг, а вход в ямень охранялся грозными |
| + | телохранителями, вооруженными маузерами и саблями. |
| + | |
| + | Генерал-губернатор принял нас в своем небольшом кабинете, где находились письменный стол |
| + | и огромное количество китайских книг в синих матерчатых переплетах. Ян Цен-синь, |
| + | генерал-губернатор Синьцзяна, встал, чтобы поприветствовать нас и предложил усаживаться |
| + | поближе к столу. Это был человек примерно шестидесяти пяти лет, крепкого телосложения, с |
| + | длинной седой бородой. На нем был одет очень простой серый халат и обычная черная |
| + | тюбетейка. Говорил губернатор медленно и тихо, но иногда, чтобы подчеркнуть важность |
| + | сказанного, внезапно резко повышал голос. Более пятнадцати лет правил Ян Цен-синь |
| + | обширным владением. Утвердившись на этом посту после китайской революции 1911 г., |
| + | он продержался в должности генерал-губернатора довольно долго. Методы его правления |
| + | отличались решительностью и суровостью, и противники не осмеливались открыто выступать |
| + | против него. В 1916 г. во время опасных выступлений киргизов на Кашгарской границе |
| + | он показал себя как сильный правитель, приняв решение уничтожить врага. Во время |
| + | трудного периода 1919-1923 гг., когда русские красные и белые отряды переходили |
| + | границу Синьцзяна и война перемещалась в Китайский Туркестан, он снова сумел удержать |
| + | свое положение и избежать опасности. Основная цель политики Яна состояла в том, чтобы |
| + | сделать Синьцзян независимым от чьего бы то ни было влияния, как европейского, так и |
| + | китайского. Поддерживая внешне дружественные и лояльные отношения с пекинским |
| + | правительством и регулярно высылая налоги, он, тем не менее, не терпел никакого |
| + | вмешательства центральной власти в дела провинции. |
| + | |
| + | Границы Синьцзяна были фактически закрыты: ко всем приезжим, даже к китайцам из самого |
| + | Китая, относились с большим подозрением, часто арестовывали их и депортировали. Особенно |
| + | не любил генерал-губернатор китайцев, которые, получив образование в заграничных |
| + | университетах, пропагандировали современные идеи в Китае. Будучи консерватором, Ян не |
| + | мог представить себе Китай живущим по-современному. Он считал провинцию своим личным |
| + | владением, его администрация была настроена реакционно и по своим деловым качествам не |
| + | уступала даже старой бюрократии времен империи. Во время его правления Синьцзян пережил |
| + | период так называемого мнимого экономического расцвета. Но в действительности, политика |
| + | полной изоляции постепенно удушала провинцию, и это становилось все очевиднее. Запрещая |
| + | открытие фабрик и заводов, Ян стремился не допустить образования пролетариата в |
| + | Синьцзяне и изменений в социальной структуре провинции. В своей решимости держать |
| + | Синьцзян в изоляции этот правитель дошел до того, что не позволял даже строить хорошие |
| + | дороги и использовать автомобили и самолеты для связи с внешним миром. |
| + | |
| + | Радиостанции в Урумчи и Кашгаре и телеграфная линия, связывавшая Синьцзян с Китаем, |
| + | находились под контролем генерал-губернатора, частным лицам почти не разрешалось |
| + | пользоваться радиоприемниками. Несколько лет тому назад Русско-Азиатский банк |
| + | организовал автомобильные перевозки пассажиров и грузов между Китаем и Синьцзяном. |
| + | Китайские власти выразили свое одобрение этому новшеству, и несколько автомобилей было |
| + | послано в Монголию с целью проложить дорогу через пустыню Гоби. Генерал-губернатор |
| + | Синьцзяна быстро наложил вето на это новое дело, и единственному автомобилю марки |
| + | «Паккард», проникшему в Синьцзян, было запрещено ездить по улицам города. Автомобиль был |
| + | продан банком господину Кавальери, который добился разрешения пользоваться им только в |
| + | пределах Урумчи. |
| + | |
| + | Запрещалось издание газет и журналов, иностранная пресса и переписка подвергались |
| + | предварительной цензуре. Очень часто газеты и журналы конфисковывались. Такими крутыми |
| + | мерами создавалась видимость спокойной жизни в провинции. |
| + | |
| + | Правитель Ян прославился расправами над своими врагами. В Урумчи мы наслушались немало |
| + | разных рассказов об обедах, которые заканчивались кровопролитием. Уже много лет в народе |
| + | и среди чиновников назревало скрытое недовольство режимом. В 1924 г. по приказу |
| + | генерал-губернатора был схвачен и казнен титай Кашгара генерал Ма – двоюродный брат |
| + | знаменитого Ма Чи, пограничного комиссара и наместника Синина, правившего на |
| + | китайско-тибетской границе с 1915 г.. Во время нашего пребывания в Урумчи ходили |
| + | слухи, что генерал Ма собирается идти на Синьцзян. Правитель Ян был вынужден |
| + | мобилизовать войска и укрепить границу от Синьцзяна до Кансу. Трудно сказать, насколько |
| + | серьезными были эти военные приготовления. Приезжавшие из Кансу рассказывали, что войска |
| + | в Син-син-ся ужасно бедствуют, нуждаясь практически во всем, и масса солдат дезертирует |
| + | в близлежащие горы, сея панику среди населения. |
| + | |
| + | Кроме того, губернатора Яна называли человеком большого литературного дарования. Он был |
| + | автором мемуаров и многочисленных административных указов, изданных в трех солидных |
| + | томах, копии с которых были отправлены совсем недавно в Британский музей. |
| + | |
| + | Два года спустя мы узнали, что господство Ян Цен-синя трагически закончилось 7 июля |
| + | 1928 г. Престарелого генерал-губернатора застрелил телохранитель Фэна Яо-ханя, |
| + | верховного представителя по иностранным делам. По сообщениям из Китая, это случилось во |
| + | время церемонии вручения ежегодных премий в административной школе. Возможно, что Ян |
| + | стал жертвой тщательно подготовленного заговора. |
| + | |
| + | Сразу же после покушения Пекин назначил Фэна генерал-губернатором Синьцзяна, но судьба |
| + | обернулась против него. Прибыв во дворец генерал-губернатора для исполнения своих |
| + | высоких обязанностей, он был схвачен и брошен в тюрьму личным секретарем покойного |
| + | правителя. Дочь Фэна тоже заточили в тюрьму, и большинство его приверженцев казнили. |
| + | Спустя несколько дней после ареста, Фэн Яо-ханя и его дочь приговорили к линь-чи, т.е. к |
| + | казни, посредством рассечения заживо на 10000 кусков, причем отца заставили наблюдать |
| + | муки дочери. Власть перешла в руки временного совета сановников и оставалась у них до |
| + | тех пор, пока новый генерал-губернатор Синьцзяна был назначен националистическим |
| + | правительством Нанкина. |
| + | |
| + | Мы долго беседовали с генерал-губернатором Ян Цен-синем, который возложил всю вину за |
| + | наше притеснение на местных чиновников Хотана. Он заявил, что таоинь Хотана Ма Шао-ву |
| + | совершенно никому не подчиняется, и образно сравнил Хотан с разбойничьим гнездом. По его |
| + | словам, карашарские торгуты, известные бандиты, поэтому не удивительно, что у нас |
| + | возникло там столько проблем. Когда же мы высказали предположение, что главным |
| + | виновником инцидента в Карашаре был член городского совета, правитель Ян очень удивился |
| + | и покачал головой. Его Превосходительство заверил нас, что здесь, в Урумчи, мы можем |
| + | делать все, что нам захочется. |
| + | |
| + | Мы попросили губернатора отдать распоряжение чиновникам о возвращении нашего оружия, и |
| + | его превосходительство воскликнул: «Какой позор! Конечно же, оно будет вам возвращено! |
| + | Вы, иностранцы – великие люди и должны прощать нас, маленьких людишек». Мы рассказали |
| + | Яну о своих планах на будущее, и он сильно засомневался, удастся ли нам продолжить |
| + | путешествие в Кансу. По его мнению, в Пекин можно было попасть только через Сибирь. |
| + | Создавалось впечатление, что нас снова пытались заставить сменить маршрут. |
| + | |
| + | После поучительной беседы с генерал-губернатором мы отправились к Фэн Яо-ханю, |
| + | верховному представителю по иностранным делам, временно исполнявшему обязанности таоиня. |
| + | Фэн несколько лет учился в японском университете и считался хорошим дипломатом. Он |
| + | обещал всемерно содействовать экспедиции, но тоже усомнился в отношении предполагаемого |
| + | путешествия в Кансу и сказал, что было бы лучше получить разрешение идти через Сибирь. |
| + | |
| + | В тот же день профессор Рерих подал просьбу о разрешении на проезд через Сибирь, и ему |
| + | сказали, что ответ поступит примерно через две недели. Мы пробыли в Урумчи гораздо |
| + | дольше, чем предполагали. Господин Фельдман, директор Русско-Азиатского банка, любезно |
| + | предложил нам дом с большим подворьем, принадлежавший банку, и мы с радостью приняли это |
| + | предложение. |
| + | |
| + | Каждый день мы совершали экскурсии по столице и часто встречались с местными |
| + | чиновниками. Положение на границе с Кансу ухудшалось, по улицам Урумчи ежедневно |
| + | проходили войска. Впереди походной колонны обычно шел оркестр, за ним несколько |
| + | знаменосцев несли огромные красные, желтые и разноцветные флаги. Солдаты выглядели как |
| + | пестрое сборище хулиганов в униформе. Рядом с солдатами часто вышагивали мальчики лет |
| + | двенадцати, которые несли сразу по три винтовки. Это означало, что солдаты вверяли |
| + | мальчишкам свое оружие, а сами в это время с наслаждением курили в ближайшем ресторане. |
| + | |
| + | По синьцзянским законам даже мелкие собственники освобождались от военной службы, |
| + | поэтому местная армия состояла из бродяг и нищих, набранных по приказу |
| + | генерал-губернатора. Обычно для поставки нужного количества солдат совершался рейд по |
| + | всем ночным клубам и игорным домам города и его окрестностей. Всех, кого там заставали, |
| + | тут же арестовывали и отправляли в казармы. Ежемесячное жалованье солдата в Синьцзяне не |
| + | превышало пяти лан, что примерно равнялось трем мексиканским долларам. Часто вместо |
| + | денег выдавали опиум. Войска снабжались огнестрельным оружием разных калибров и систем, |
| + | и это крайне затрудняло поставку боеприпасов в армию. |
| + | |
| + | 20 апреля вдруг неожиданно начался сильный снежный буран, не прекращавшийся трое суток. |
| + | Резко похолодало, горы вокруг покрылись снегом. |
| + | |
| + | 25 апреля Фэн Яо-хань пригласил проживавших в Урумчи иностранцев на банкет в летний |
| + | дворец генерал-губернатора. Этот дворец примечателен огромным чугунным памятником у |
| + | входа, воздвигнутым Ян Цен-синем в собственную честь. Расходы по созданию и перевозке |
| + | монумента из Китая в Урумчи легли на плечи «благодарных» жителей города. |
| + | |
| + | 5 мая Фэн Яо-хань подтвердил, что для экспедиции открыт лишь один единственный путь |
| + | через Сибирь. Мы решили двигаться к озеру Зайсан, а затем на пароходе в Омск. |
| + | |
| + | 10 мая город украсили флагами, и солдаты прекратили военные учения. Пришли сообщения, |
| + | что сининский генерал Ма разбит тибетцами. Несколько месяцев назад тунганские |
| + | кавалеристы генерала Ма разграбили богатый и почитаемый монастырь Лабранг, и Джам-ян |
| + | ше-па (Джам- дбьянгз бшед-па), воплощенный лама и настоятель монастыря, был вынужден |
| + | бежать в Кхам, или Восточный Тибет. Лама разослал письма вождям всех племен на |
| + | китайско-тибетской границе с призывом защитить монастырь от разграбления тунганскими |
| + | солдатами. Племена выставили по два воина от каждого стойбища, и вскоре грозные |
| + | эскадроны кочевников обрушились на аванпосты тунган. Солдаты Ма Чи были вынуждены |
| + | отступить, а в окрестностях Танкара и Синина появились группы тибетских всадников. |
| + | Оказавшись в критическом положении, генерал Ма бросил все свои боеспособные части против |
| + | наступавших тибетцев. Напряжение на границе с Кансу немного спало. |
| + | |
| + | 11 мая на обеде в Русско-Азиатском банке мы познакомились с доктором В. Филчнером, |
| + | известным немецким исследователем и автором нескольких книг о Северо-Восточном Тибете и |
| + | Китае. Он рассказал нам о трудностях, возникших у него с местными властями, которые |
| + | отказались уяснить научную цель экспедиции по заполнению существующих пробелов в |
| + | магнитных исследованиях Центральной Азии. |
| + | |
| + | 13 мая генерал-губернатором был дан обед в нашу честь. Среди приглашенных был доктор |
| + | Филчнер, господин Кавальери, господин Вельдман, католический миссионер и несколько |
| + | китайских чиновников с кульджанской границы. Генерал-губернатор сообщил, что наш паспорт |
| + | с разрешением на поездку в Пекин будет готов на следующий день, и пожелал нам |
| + | счастливого пути. Обещанный документ представлял собой свиток длинной в шесть футов, в |
| + | котором, помимо подробного перечня снаряжения и действий персонала, излагались |
| + | художественные и научные задачи нашей экспедиции. Оружие нам вернули только накануне |
| + | отъезда. |
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| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 8 |
| + | |
| + | Наш экспресс мчался по равнинам Сибири, покрытым темными девственными лесами из елей и |
| + | кедра. Ранним утром поезд миновал Иркутск с его кафедральным собором, четко выделявшимся |
| + | на фоне предрассветного неба. Затем показался красивый южный берег и спокойная гладь |
| + | великого озера Байкал, опоясанного горными цепями. За Байкалом местность стала более |
| + | гористой и поезду приходилось петлять среди холмов, поросших лесом. Это была Бурятия, и |
| + | все чаще на платформах станций стали попадаться буряты в остроконечных меховых шапках и |
| + | голубых халатах. Поздним вечером поезд прибыл в столицу Бурятской автономной республики |
| + | Верхнеудинск. Здесь мы провели три дня, занимаясь погрузкой и подготовкой автомобилей к |
| + | экспедиции в Монголию. |
| \ | No newline at end of file |
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| @@ 0,0 1,271 @@ | |
| + | # Book 2 - Chapter 9 |
| + | |
| + | В начале марта 1927 г. для экспедиции начались хлопотные дни. Следовало обсудить |
| + | маршрут будущего путешествия, нанять людей и караванных животных, а также частично |
| + | обновить экспедиционное снаряжение, починить палатки и пополнить продовольственные |
| + | запасы. |
| + | |
| + | Центральная Азия еще не до конца была исследована нами, и мы искали поле деятельности |
| + | для своей будущей художественной и научной работы. О посещении Китая не могло быть и |
| + | речи, так как страна была охвачена жестокой межнациональной борьбой. Оставался Тибет – |
| + | страна снегов, который в прошлые времена привлек блестящую плеяду людей, прославившихся |
| + | в истории географических исследований нашей планеты. Члены правления Музея имени Рериха |
| + | очень настаивали на посещении экспедицией Тибета с целью поиска письменных и |
| + | изобразительных памятников буддизма, изучения его населения и создания полотен с видами |
| + | страны, в которой до этого никогда не бывал ни один художник. |
| + | |
| + | Сначала трудно было решить, в каком направлении нам следовало бы пересечь Тибет, чтобы |
| + | выйти к окраине Южной Азии. Центральный Тибет с большими городскими монастырями был |
| + | идеальным местом для изучения древностей. Большинство типографий находилось около Лхасы |
| + | и Шигадзе, и мы надеялись заполучить в них значительное количество важных ксилографий и |
| + | манускриптов. Мы решили отправиться в Центральный Тибет и уже там обдумать наш |
| + | дальнейший маршрут. Из Центрального Тибета можно было либо продолжить путешествие по |
| + | юго-восточной части страны в китайскую провинцию Юньнань, а оттуда во Французский |
| + | Индокитай, либо, пройдя через самые труднопроходимые леса, пересеченные глубокими |
| + | речными долинами, попасть в Британскую Бирму. |
| + | |
| + | Другой возможный маршрут проходил по проторенному торговому пути Гянцзе – Чумби – |
| + | Сикким. И наконец, оставалось несколько дорог через Юго-Западный Тибет, ведущих в Алмору |
| + | и Симлу в Британских Гималаях. |
| + | |
| + | С самого начала мы отказались от длительного и тяжелого маршрута в Ладак и от восточного |
| + | маршрута через Чамдо и Ботан в Сы-чуань, как из-за трудностей, так и из-за того, что по |
| + | ним уже прошло несколько европейских экспедиций. |
| + | |
| + | В значительной мере все зависело от решения тибетских властей, и хотя они убеждали нас в |
| + | своих благих намерениях и готовности оказывать помощь экспедиции, мы не были уверены в |
| + | том, что на последнем этапе пути попадем из Тибета прямо в Индию, Южный Китай или во |
| + | французские колонии. Обстановка в Центральной Азии и Китае была непредсказуемой, и |
| + | поэтому нам оставалось лишь положиться на судьбу и продолжить путешествие, решая |
| + | возникающие вопросы на ходу. |
| + | |
| + | Чтобы обеспечить собственную безопасность при переходе через неприветливый Тибет, мы |
| + | решили получить разрешение непосредственно от тибетских властей. Нам было известно, что |
| + | экспедиции, намеревавшиеся штурмовать Эверест, получали паспорта от правительства Лхасы, |
| + | позволяющие исследовать горы со стороны Тибета. Поэтому, чтобы не быть непрошеными |
| + | гостями и посвятить в наши планы правительство страны, в ноябре 1926 г. мы |
| + | обратились к тибетскому представителю в Урге. Этот чиновник, занимавший должность |
| + | доньера, сообщил нам, что он охотно поможет нашей экспедиции, если получит разрешение от |
| + | своего правительства. Тибетский караван, возглавляемый мелким тибетским чиновником, был |
| + | готов к отправке в Лхасу. Вместе с ним тибетский представитель отправил подробное |
| + | сообщение о нашей экспедиции. На имя Его Святейшества Далай ламы была отправлена |
| + | петиция, с просьбой телеграфировать ответ через Калькутту и Пекин. |
| + | |
| + | В феврале 1927 г тибетский представитель отправил через Пекин телеграфный запрос в |
| + | Лхасу. Специальное официальное лицо из тибетского консульства было отправлено в Пекин, |
| + | чтобы связаться оттуда по телеграфу с Лхасой и получить ответ. Он вернулся в конце марта |
| + | с хорошими новостями о том, что лхасское правительство разрешило выдать паспорта |
| + | экспедиции. Тибетский представитель быстро оформил наши документы на путешествие по |
| + | Центральному Тибету, или Пё-нангу, написал специальное письмо пограничным властям и |
| + | рекомендательное письмо к Его Святейшеству Далай ламе. |
| + | |
| + | Тем временем другой тибетский торговый караван приготовился к отбытию из Урги. С ним мы |
| + | отправили еще одно письмо, уведомляющее лхасские и пограничные власти о нашем прибытии. |
| + | Трудно было получить верные сведения о дорогах, ведущих из Монголии в Тибет. Хорошо |
| + | известный путь Урга – Гурбун – Сайханьские горы – Алашан, по которому прошли знаменитые |
| + | путешественники Пржевальский и генерал Козлов во время своих памятных кампаний, был |
| + | закрыт из-за политических разногласий. Оставался караванный маршрут через Юм-бейсе – |
| + | Аньси, но он был мало кому известен, кроме нескольких тибетских торговцев и монгольских |
| + | лам, которые совершили паломничество в Лхасу. |
| + | |
| + | В течение многих дней мы старались собрать сведения о местностях, прилегающих к |
| + | маршруту, возможных стоянках, водоснабжении в пустынных районах и транспортных |
| + | средствах. Единственной экспедицией, прошедшей данным маршрутом, была экспедиция |
| + | генерала П.К.Козлова в 1899-1901 гг., во время которой господин Казнаков, один из |
| + | помощников Козлова, сделал съемку юго-западной части Гоби, выйдя из Сучоу в направлении |
| + | к Монгольскому Алтаю. Горы на севере Аньси-чоу были тщательно исследованы Аурелом |
| + | Стейном во время его Центральноазиатской экспедиции 1915 г. В целом юго-западная |
| + | часть Гоби является одним им наименее изученных пустынных районов Монголии и Центральной |
| + | Азии. |
| + | |
| + | По имеющимся картам мы смогли получить очень смутное представление об этой местности. |
| + | Кроме того, некоторые монгольские ламы и тибетские торговцы, которым доводилось |
| + | останавливаться в Урге, и немного знавшие путь, по-разному называли одни и те же места, |
| + | и поэтому совершенно невозможно было определить маршрут. |
| + | |
| + | Единственными надежными ориентирами, которые удалось отметить на карте, были монастырь |
| + | Юм-бейсе, оазис Шара-кхулусун, Аньси и Ших-пао-чьенг в горах Нань Шаня – конечной южной |
| + | точки маршрута следования каравана. |
| + | |
| + | Оставалась еще одна дорога, по которой в 1899 г. шел Потанин, имевшая много |
| + | преимуществ. Она пролегала к западу от Гурбан-Сайханьского хребта и вела через пустыню |
| + | Гоби к озеру Гашун-нор и реке Ецин-гол. Узкие полоски растительности по берегам реки |
| + | могли служить пастбищем для караванных животных. Именно этим путем двигался в |
| + | 1227 г. Чингисхан, готовясь к покорению тангутского государства Хси-хсиа. К |
| + | сожалению, пограничная местность между Кансу и Центральной Монголией кишела |
| + | разбойниками, из-за которых этот путь был неприемлем для большой экспедиции. Мы решили |
| + | следовать маршрутом через Юм-бейсе. |
| + | |
| + | Следующий важный вопрос касался перехода из Урги в Юм-бейсе. Мы намеревались |
| + | использовать автомобили на этом отрезке пути. Из Урги в Юм-бейсе ведут несколько дорог, |
| + | проходимых для автомашин, но о них ничего определенного не было известно в столице. |
| + | Первая дорога из Урги вела через Дзайн-шаби-лама-йин Геген – Юм-бейсе и была почти |
| + | непроходимой весной и летом из-за многочисленных рек, Орхона и рек верхнего бассейна |
| + | Селенги, которые она пересекала на своем пути. Другой путь вел из Урги через Нга-Ван |
| + | кюрен – монастырь Тукхумун Дуган – Удзен-Ван-Кара-нидун – Юм-бейсе и имел огромное |
| + | преимущество в том, что позволял избежать труднопроходимых рек бассейна Селенги и |
| + | пересекал Онгин-гол в его верхнем течении. Третий путь соединялся со вторым у монастыря |
| + | Нга-Ванг кюрен и оттуда вел на юг, а потом на юго-запад, по направлению к озерам |
| + | Цаган-нор и Орок-нор. Он проходил по твердой каменистой пустыне; сыпучие пески и топи |
| + | встречались только в окрестностях озер Цаган-нор и Орок-нор. |
| + | |
| + | Все вышеописанные дороги вели в Юм-бейсе. В наши намерения входило продолжить |
| + | путешествие на автомобилях в южном направлении от Юм-бейсе. Мы знали об огромных |
| + | трудностях, которые подстерегают мототранспорт в горах, и пытались найти другую дорогу, |
| + | чтобы избежать суровых горных хребтов, опоясанных непроходимыми песчаными дюнами, к югу |
| + | от Юм-бейсе. |
| + | |
| + | С самого начала невозможно было сказать, сколько потребуется дней, чтобы достичь |
| + | Юм-бейсе. По хорошей дороге мы могли бы ехать со скоростью шестьдесят миль в день, но по |
| + | тяжелым пескам пришлось бы двигаться с предельной осторожностью. Знающие люди советовали |
| + | нам выехать в начале апреля, до того, как оттают и станут мягкими пески пустыни. Нам не |
| + | удалось получить вовремя новые автомобили из Пекина, и пришлось арендовать те, что были. |
| + | Для того, чтобы обеспечить себя достаточным количеством бензина на время предполагаемого |
| + | путешествия из Юм-бейсе в Аньси, мы наняли караван верблюдов, который выступил в путь 15 |
| + | марта, захватив с собой топливо. |
| + | |
| + | Другой причиной для ускорения нашего отъезда послужило то, что заканчивался верблюжий |
| + | сезон. В случае, если бы нам не удалось продолжить путешествие на автомобилях далее |
| + | Юм-бейсе, нам пришлось бы нанимать верблюдов. Если же мы задержимся в Урге, то прибудем |
| + | в Юм-бейсе в мае и не сможем заполучить верблюжий караван. Караванный сезон начинается |
| + | во второй половине августа и продолжается всю зиму до апреля или до мая. Он длится весь |
| + | самый холодный период года. В результате этого появляется огромное количество |
| + | обмороженных людей, с обезображенными лицами, ушами и конечностями. Однажды мне довелось |
| + | увидеть большой караван, принадлежащий тибетцам и монголам, возвращающийся в середине |
| + | зимы из Тибета. Людям пришлось покинуть Синин в сентябре и в течение четырех месяцев |
| + | пробиваться через продуваемые бешеными ветрами пространства Гоби. Многие из них |
| + | подхватили пневмонию и умерли за несколько переходов южнее Урги. Даже эти люди, |
| + | закаленные мрачными условиями путешествия, не смогли выдержать испытания. Те, кто |
| + | остался в живых, обморозили носы и щеки, а с лиц свисали длинные клочья почерневшей |
| + | кожи. Жутко распухшие и почерневшие руки и ноги со зловонными ранами, в которых быстро |
| + | развивалась гангрена, достаточно свидетельствовали об их страданиях. Несмотря на ужасное |
| + | физическое состояние каравана, люди были бодрыми и даже считали, что путешествие прошло |
| + | успешно, потому что каравану удалось пройти невредимым через кишащий разбойниками район |
| + | к северу от Кансу. Так рассуждали эти торговцы, готовые противостоять почти всему, лишь |
| + | бы их товар и караванные животные прибыли в сохранности. Должно быть такие переходы |
| + | через пустыню имеют для них особую привлекательность, и они снова и снова храбро |
| + | встречают опасности зимы в Гоби и проходят сотни миль, чтобы продать несколько кусков |
| + | тибетской домотканой материи или ароматические палочки. |
| + | |
| + | Это не была явная погоня за прибылью, поскольку монголо-тибетская торговля никогда не |
| + | развивалась до крупных масштабов. Нам приходится искать объяснение в характере самой |
| + | пустыни, которая оказывает странное, почти сверхъестественное влияние на каждого, кто |
| + | хоть раз странствовал по ее просторам. Моряка всегда притягивает море, а у пустыни есть |
| + | караванщики, которые снова и снова возвращаются к ее обширным незабываемым просторам и |
| + | свободе. |
| + | |
| + | В Урге, как и в любом другом большом торговом городе Центральной Азии, караванщики |
| + | представляют особую касту людей, исполняющих роль портовых матросов. Среди караванщиков, |
| + | к которым в наши дни примкнуло многочисленное братство водителей автомобилей, |
| + | встречается уникальное собрание типов людей. Здесь есть русские, немцы, французы, |
| + | монголы, китайцы, татары из Китайского Туркестана, киргизы и тибетцы – люди различных |
| + | национальностей и различных социальных уровней, сыновья видных государственных деятелей, |
| + | бывшие военные, торговцы и охотники, контрабандисты и бывшие преступники, которые ищут |
| + | безопасности в свободных просторах пустыни. Вся эта разноцветная толпа людей, |
| + | заполняющая постоялые дворы Урги, постоянно находится в поиске какой-либо работы. |
| + | Руководителю экспедиции постоянно следует быть настороже, имея дело с людьми такого |
| + | сорта. Они будут приходить к нему и заверять в своих наилучших намерениях, называть его |
| + | отцом или братом, в зависимости от ситуации, и обещать быть послушными спутниками, |
| + | готовыми к любой неожиданности. Я не сомневаюсь, что большинство этих людей обладает |
| + | значительным личным мужеством, и многие были участниками кровавых дел, но для научной |
| + | экспедиции, задачей которой является исследование, а не приключение или захват новых |
| + | территорий, такие люди опасны и порой могут расстроить все предприятие |
| + | |
| + | Когда мы набирали людей для нашего каравана и небольшую группу охраны, которая должна |
| + | была защищать экспедицию во время ее прохождения через разбойничий район Центральной |
| + | Азии, сотни людей – русские, эстонцы, монголы, китайцы и тибетцы – пришли к нам, чтобы |
| + | предложить свои услуги. Кто-то распустил в городе и его окрестностях слух, что |
| + | американской экспедиции требуется 900 человек. Они шли валом – безработные рабочие, |
| + | сибирские казаки, бывшие монгольские солдаты и китайские кули. Все они уверяли нас, что |
| + | им нечего терять, нечего оставлять, что жизни большинства из них полностью разбиты, и |
| + | что они желают принять участие в научном приключении. Мы отослали назад большую часть |
| + | наших посетителей и наняли лишь шестнадцать стойких монголов, чье прошлое и настоящее мы |
| + | смогли установить у местных жителей. Было трудно найти подходящих людей среди тибетцев |
| + | Урги, так как некоторые из них пожелали вернуться на родину. Казалось, что они |
| + | предпочитают легкой жизни в Урге – жизнь в Лхасе. |
| + | |
| + | Через месяц мы набрали достаточное количество людей рабочими лагеря, которые могли бы |
| + | стать боевой силой в случае конфликта с бандами грабителей. Вскоре штаб-квартиры нашей |
| + | экспедиции и два прилегающих к ним двора, находящиеся в Урге, были запружены толпой. |
| + | Было поставлено несколько палаток, в которых расположились сопровождающие нас люди, |
| + | устроены хранилища и размещены запасы. Во втором дворе стояли лошади нашего конвоя, |
| + | привязанные веревками к кольям. Часовые расположились у входа, чтобы не пускать |
| + | посторонних. С экспедиционной охраной ежедневно проводили военную подготовку. Их учили |
| + | обращаться с огнестрельным оружием. Каждый должен был знать, как вести себя в случае боя |
| + | на коне и без коня, как ухаживать за своим оружием и лошадью. Кроме того, он должен был |
| + | знать обязанности часового, учился подавать сигнал и осуществлять разведку, чтобы |
| + | противостоять любой опасности. |
| + | |
| + | Многие мужчины в прошлом были охотниками. Все они умели метко стрелять и хорошо ездить |
| + | верхом, что немаловажно в экспедиции, чтобы не повредить спины и сберечь животных. Кроме |
| + | военной тренировки и упражнения в стрельбе, людей обучали ставить и снимать палатки. Все |
| + | это они должны были уметь делать при необходимости быстро разбить лагерь после долгого и |
| + | трудного дневного перехода. |
| + | |
| + | В Урге к экспедиции присоединился Портнягин из Харбина, молодой человек, имеющий опыт в |
| + | трудных путешествиях по монгольской пустыне Гоби, человек большого личного мужества. |
| + | |
| + | Г-жу Рерих в путешествии сопровождали ее личные помощницы, две местные девочки-казачки, |
| + | хорошо подготовленные к предстоящему трудному путешествию. Отличительной особенностью |
| + | нашей экспедиции стало присутствие в ней трех женщин, которые переносили все тяготы |
| + | путешествия наравне с мужчинами. У всех мужчин экспедиции они вызывали глубокое уважение |
| + | своей замечательной стойкостью в самых изнуряющих условиях и в моменты физической |
| + | опасности. |
| + | |
| + | 28 марта мы с радостью приветствовали наших американских сотрудников, г-на и г‑жу |
| + | Лихтман, которые приехали в Ургу, привезя с собой провизию и снаряжение для экспедиции. |
| + | К экспедиции также присоединился доктор Рябинин, наш старый друг, добровольно пожелавший |
| + | сопровождать нас в качестве медицинского консультанта. Знания, которые он имел, будучи |
| + | врачом и дантистом, делали его пребывание в экспедиции очень полезным. Г-н и г-жа |
| + | Лихтман привезли с собой некоторое лагерное снаряжение и палатки, а кроме того, крайне |
| + | необходимую зимнюю одежду и ящики с медикаментами, которые прислали г-н Л.Л.Хорш и г-н |
| + | С.Н.Рерих. Новые палатки из Нью-Йорка, так называемого канадского образца, имели |
| + | конусообразную форму, опирались только на один шест с двумя распорками, предназначенными |
| + | для поддержания углов, и шитый квадратный пол. Эти палатки имели огромное преимущество в |
| + | том, что были чрезвычайно легкими. Одну такую палатку можно было без труда нести на |
| + | спине, а вьючная лошадь или мул могли везти сразу четыре. При разбивке лагеря такую |
| + | палатку мог бы установить один человек. Они выдерживали штормовые ветра и бури тибетских |
| + | нагорий и оказались очень ценным дополнением к нашему лагерному снаряжению. Прибытие |
| + | ящиков с медикаментами избавило нас от большого беспокойства: в Урге было невозможно |
| + | пополнить наши походные аптечки, и мы обрадовались, получив богатое подкрепление из |
| + | Нью-Йорка. |
| + | |
| + | Старые экспедиционные палатки нуждались в основательном ремонте для того, чтобы они |
| + | могли выдержать повторный переход через пустыню. Все деревянные колья, пригодные для |
| + | мягкой песчаной почвы, были заменены на железные, единственно подходящий материал для |
| + | каменистой почвы пустыни. К тому же мы приобрели несколько китайских май-ханов, или |
| + | палаток из голубой ткани, поддерживаемых двумя шестами и одной горизонтально |
| + | расположенной перекладиной. У них была чудесная овальная форма, и они стояли прочно под |
| + | ударами штормовых ветров. Главным образом, такие палатки использовали в караванах и были |
| + | водонепроницаемые, а их единственный недостаток был в том, что они пропускали холод. Мы |
| + | не взяли с собой войлочные монгольские юрты, так как установка их деревянных каркасов |
| + | отнимала много времени, и они становились чрезвычайно тяжелыми после дождя или снежного |
| + | бурана. Во время нашей последующей вынужденной задержки на тибетском нагорий мы часто |
| + | сожалели, что не имели ни одной зимней юрты. Починка старых палаток и укрепление новых |
| + | заняли много времени, и прошел целый месяц, прежде чем все – колья, веревки, мешки для |
| + | палаток и т.д. – было готово и имело нужное качество. |
| + | |
| + | Также большого внимания требовало седельное снаряжение. Из Нью-Йорка мы получили два |
| + | западных седла, два чудесных седла для степных лошадей Центральной Азии. Достать |
| + | европейские седла в Урге было невозможно, а монгольский эскорт не умел ездить верхом в |
| + | обычном английском седле. Нам пришлось покупать казацкие седла, которые продавали на |
| + | рынке Урги. Они были удобны и хорошо подходили для степных лошадей. Крайне важно иметь |
| + | хорошие седла для верховой езды и вьючных животных, чтобы не повредить спину и уберечь |
| + | животных. Уздечки тоже должны быть тщательно подобраны. Уздечки с толстыми удилами |
| + | бесполезны для степных или горных пони Центральной Азии. Для них идеальны казацкие |
| + | удила. Центральноазиатская лошадь очень своенравна и имеет переменчивый характер, ей |
| + | необходимы крепкие удила, чтобы она не понеслась – привычка, к которой склонно животное. |
| + | |
| + | Зимняя одежда для членов экспедиции тоже вызывала много беспокойства. Урга не была |
| + | идеальным местом, где можно было приобрести обмундирование. Мы были вынуждены купить |
| + | китайские дубленые овчины и сшить из них теплые спальные мешки и шубы. К тому же, на |
| + | рынке мы отыскали несколько сибирских меховых шуб из тяжелой овчины. Каждый член |
| + | экспедиции был экипирован парой теплых сапог на меху, или ичигами, которые носят в |
| + | основном в Монголии и Сибири. |
| + | |
| + | Необходимо было также привести в порядок продовольственные запасы. Все это потребовало |
| + | очень много времени и энергии от европейского персонала экспедиции. |
| + | |
| + | Наше пребывание в Урге быстро подходило к концу, и дата отъезда, намеченная на 15 |
| + | апреля, была уже близко. 14 апреля ворота владений экспедиции широко распахнулись для |
| + | въезжающих автомобилей. |
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| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 33 |
| + | |
| + | Два дня — 27 и 28 [июля] — мы плыли по реке Обь, прекрасные места, вели такие беседы, |
| + | так много было нам дано, о нас думали каждую минуту. Незабываемые дни. Правда, было |
| + | очень жарко, бедная Е.И. страдала ужасно. Когда мы прибыли в Барнаул, оказалось, что |
| + | пароход, на котором мы должны были плыть дальше, не пришел, и весь следующий день мы |
| + | провели в Барнауле, аж до трех часов утра, пока не подошел следующий пароход. Становится |
| + | прохладней. Огромная река Обь и такая широкая! |
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| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 34 |
| + | |
| + | На следующий день приступили к делам позже, чем планировалось. Е.И. не понравился |
| + | возница Едоков, сказала, что у нас с ним будут неприятности, умоляла нас оставить его и |
| + | взять других лошадей, возницу и брички. Мы не послушались, но слова ее, как всегда, |
| + | оказались пророческими: в пути мы все время подвергались опасности из-за Едокова. |
| + | |
| + | Поздно вечером прибыли в Красный Яр, не могли устроиться на ночлег, |
| + | |
| + | пришлось идти в село Алтайское, где была изба, вся заполненная людьми, так что Н.К. и |
| + | Мор[ис] полночи просидели за столом, облокотившись, а мы — я, Е.И. и Юрий — остались в |
| + | бричках. Мы начали понимать, что Едоков даже не знает дороги и лошади у него были |
| + | слабые. |
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| + | # Book 3 - Chapter 35 |
| + | |
| + | Уезжали 22-го — знаменательный день — похороны [Ф.Э. Дзержинского] и толпы людей, |
| + | музыка, пушечные залпы, все выдающиеся личности проходят мимо — мы стоим на балконе |
| + | [гостиницы «Большая Московская»]. Очень нервничаем, что можем опоздать к поезду; наконец |
| + | подъехали три автомобиля, и мы, среди огромных толп людей, военных со знаменами, громкой |
| + | музыки, удостаиваемся самых удивительных, необычных проводов. Люди дружелюбны, очень |
| + | заинтересованы, наблюдают за нами, приветствуют нас, посылают приветствия далеким |
| + | друзьям в Америке. Участники похоронной процессии на нашем пути великодушно |
| + | расступаются, как по волшебству, даже почтительно, давая нам проехать. Незабываемый |
| + | день, великий отъезд. Е.И. вспомнила виденный ею сон: пятеро идущих сквозь толпы, |
| + | музыка, солдаты в синих фуражках, знамена, — и ей было сказано, что это в Москве. |
| + | |
| + | Когда они вначале договаривались о приезде в Москву, пришла телеграмма от Чичерина о |
| + | выдаче трехдневной транзитной визы, а затем вторая телеграмма — о гражданстве. Но консул |
| + | в Урумчи сказал им, чтобы они ехали, он же скажет, что телеграмма пришла позже. И затем |
| + | запечатал все важные бумаги и письма дипломатической печатью — тем самым рискуя своим |
| + | положением, даже не заглядывая в бумаги, которых он прежде никогда не видел, ни |
| + | мгновения не колеблясь и не сомневаясь, всецело доверяя Е.И. и Н.К. За это он получил |
| + | кольцо и был приближен. |
| + | |
| + | Все в Москве были изумлены, что такое огромное количество багажа не было подвергнуто |
| + | таможенному досмотру. Грабарь сказал, что обычно даже два чемодана досматривают! |
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| + | # Book 4 - Chapter 36 |
| + | |
| + | Мой Глаз — ваш свет! |
| + | |
| + | Моя Рука — ваша защита! |
| + | |
| + | Моё Сердце — ваш якорь! |
| + | |
| + | Едина любовь держит нить достижения духа. |
| + | |
| + | Пучина не поглотит огонь. |
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| + | # Book 5 - Chapter 37 |
| + | |
| + | Путник-друг, пойдем вместе. Ночь близка, звери кругом, и огонь костра |
| + | может потухнуть. Но если мы согласимся разделить дозор ночи, мы сохраним |
| + | силы. |
| + | |
| + | Завтра наш путь долог и мы можем истомиться. Пойдем вместе. У нас будет |
| + | праздник и радость. Спою тебе песню твоей матери, и жены, и сестры. |
| + | Ты же скажешь предание отца о герое и подвиге. Будет наш путь общим. |
| + | |
| + | Не наступи на скорпиона и предупреди меня |
| + | о ехидне.Путник-друг, помни, что мы должны прийти |
| + | в одно селение горное. |
| + | |
| + | Путник, будь мне другом. |
| + | |
| + | Рассеиваем суеверие, невежество и страх. Куем мужество, волю и знание. |
| + | |
| + | Всякое стремление к просвещению приветствовано. Каждый предрассудок невежества |
| + | обличен. |
| + | |
| + | Трудящийся, горят ли в твоем сознании основы сотрудничества и общины? |
| + | |
| + | Если это пламя уже просветило мозг твой, усвой признаки Учения Наших гор. |
| + | |
| + | Трудящийся, не устань перед головоломкой некоторых выражений. Каждая строка — |
| + | высшая мера простоты. |
| + | |
| + | Привет трудящимся и искателям! |
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| + | # Book 6 - Chapter 38 |
| + | |
| + | Почитаемый Махатма, давший книги «Зов», «Озарение» и «Община», передал многие советы и |
| + | знаки Агни Йоги. Эти практические указания собраны |
| + | нами на пользу ищущих знания. |
| + | |
| + | Санскрит и Сензар дают налет изложению и не всегда находят эквивалент в других |
| + | языках. Но тем не менее значение выражений сохранено точно, и участники современной |
| + | жизни будут со вниманием читать это мудрое Учение, идущее от опыта веков. |
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