XIII. Across Tsaidam

George Roerich — Trails to the Inmost Asia

August 19, 1927. This morning I got up long before dawn. The camp was still asleep and the silence was broken only by the measured step of the sentry and the rumination of the camels tied to the picket ropes. From the darkness emerged the large silhouette of one of our Mongols in charge of the drove of horses and mules. He drove in front of him our animals and their silhouettes formed a black mass outside the camp. The sentry began to build a camp fire and against the background of the flickering flame the burly figures of the Mongols were seen emerging from their tents. The camp suddenly awoke to life and everywhere men were busy with loads and folding tents. The dawn lit up the horizon and long strings of camels began the march toward the mountains south of the valley. The front camels carried on their loads ceremonial scarfs and charm boxes, destined to protect them from evil fortune on the high passes of Tibet.

Higher and higher rose the trail and soon a long sandy spur hid the valley. We entered a sandy gorge leading toward the Ulan-daban Pass and camped on a patch of ground covered with vivid green grass. South of the camp rose the violet rocky summits which give the name to the mountain pass. Late in the evening our camp was joined by several Kurluk Mongols en route for Mahai. It is a local custom to travel always accompanied by some friend and the Mongols who joined us in the evening rode in a small band of four.