XV. At the Gates of Tibet The Detention at Chu-Na-Khe and the Peril of the Caravan

George Roerich — Trails to the Inmost Asia

The General departed and the great camp lay deserted. Most of the Hor-pa tribesmen who were in attendance on the High Commissioner returned to their pastures. Only the headmen of the five Hor tribes of the region and the Major, Sö-nam Thop-jyel, with a detachment of soldiers remained in camp to attend us and spy upon our movements. A guard of militia was stationed in our camp and our servants and caravaneers were forbidden to speak to strangers. The militiamen, unkempt fellows in dirty sheepskins, sat continuously outside the tents and watched every movement. The headman in charge of the militia post was an agreeable man, of pleasant manner, and tried his best to assist us. He had the appearance of a south-European with an aquiline nose and long straight hair. He wore a coat of purple puru and a charm box of silver. According to him, the northern Tibetan frontier had been closed since last year.

The route from Nag-chu to Lhasa was strictly guarded by military posts, who stopped and searched harmless pilgrims from Mongolia and the Chinese border, and only Tsaidam Mongols were permitted to move about freely. The country was agitated by rumors that the Tashi Lama was approaching with a mighty host of Chinese and Mongol troops.

The Major, Sö-nam Thop-jyel, paid us an official visit and inquired about our needs. He told us he was confident that an answer from the Government of Lhasa would be received soon and that we should be allowed to cross the territory of inner Tibet. He had many stories to tell about his military adventures. He had received his rank during the Sino-Tibetan war of 1918 and was present at the siege of Ri-wo-che and Chamdo. He had met the Chinese commandant of the Chamdo fortress, General P'eng, and even remembered having seen our old Chinese interpreter, Ts'ai, who was taken prisoner at Ri-wo-che. The Major advised us to send all our animals to pastures with good grass, situated some eight miles northwest of Chu-na-khe. He promised to send four men to guard our horses and mules. As no fodder was available and the supply of grain was very scant, we were forced to agree, much against our will. Many of the animals never returned to the camp and perished from exposure and want of fodder. We received only their tails, which were brought back to our camp as proofs that the animals had died.