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# Nicholas Roerich. Altai-Himalaya
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## X. Altai (1926)
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Across the entire heaven shone a rainbow. And not one, but two. And through the
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rainbow-gate rushed the broad Ob: The great Ob—birthplace of the wife and serpent.
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The Shambatyon River rolls along rapids and stones. Who will brave it? On its other
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shore live the people of M. M., the most sacred letter of the alphabet, conceals the
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name of the coming one. The Kabala recalls the Shambatyon.
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Katun rolls along
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stones—a true Katun. And as yet, the city has not been built on the new site.
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Katun in Turki means woman.
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“The Dodecahedron, significant of the feminine Origin, is being indicated in scientific
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terms which are connected with the dates of evolution. . . .”
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“On Katun and on the Bia, brother will rise against brother. There will be great
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slaughter and then there will begin a new life….”
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And still others come and speak concerning the same year of Twenty-eight. The sun spots
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condense as at present only every seventy-seven years. And then finally comes the most
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inspired person and he also talks about the same year. What a wonder! One, through
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astronomy; the other, through astrology; the third, through writings; the fourth,
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through numerology; and all are concerned with the same thing. What a wonder! If one
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adds twenty-five to 1911 one gets the same result—the year 1936.
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Stone—wondrous stone. The stone of Tigeretz. And simply—stone. The entire district is
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all stone!
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Elen-Chadir, Tourak, Kuegan, Karagai, Ak-kem, Yasatar, Ekonur, Chegan, Arasan, Urul,
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Kuraghan, Alahoi, Jharhash, Ongudai, Eloman, Turgunda, Argut, Karaghem, Archat, Jhaldur,
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Chingistai, Ak-Ulgun, Hamsar.
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All these are names; these names of rivulets, habitations and town sites sound like a
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chanting tune, like a harmonious peal. So many nations have brought their finest
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harmonies and dreams. The tread of tribes went and is returning.
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Near Black Anui on Karagol there are caves. The depths and distances are not known.
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There are bones and inscriptions.
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And when we crossed Edigol the broadness of Altai spread before us. It blossomed in all
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interblending green and blue shades. It became white with distant snow. The grass and
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the flowers stood the height of a man on horseback. One cannot even locate the horses in
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it. Nowhere have we seen such grassy vesture.
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An Altaian overtook us. Timorously he peered at us. What kind of new foreigners had come
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to his country? He brandished his whip and disappeared in the resounding grasses—blue,
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gold and purple. The resemblance between the North American Indians and the Mongols is
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striking.
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About the good Oirot all know. Also they know the favorite Altaian name—Nicholai.
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Beyond Yalui begin the Altaian *Ails.* The peaked *yurtas* covered with
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the bark of the larch tree are darkened. The site for Kamlayne is seen. Here they do not
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say Shaman but Kam. Toward Anui and Ulala there are still Kams who “conjure forth snow
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and serpents.” But toward the south, Shamanism has been replaced by the teaching about
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the White Burkhan and his friend, Oirot. Sacrifices have been abolished, being replaced
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by the burning of aromatic heather and by harmonious singing. They expect the beginning
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of the new era soon. It was a woman—a young Altaian—who sensed the new steps of the
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world and safeguarded the first austere law.
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The road, washed away by rains, exhausted the horses. We stopped in Kurlyk. We shall
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have to sit through the night. But it is no hardship to spend the night in a place where
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the teaching of the White Burkhan and his benevolent friend Oirot were born. The name of
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Oirot has been accepted by a whole district. Here, verily, they expect the coming of the
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White Burkhan. In the cliffs towering over Kurlyk, the entrances of the caves loom dark.
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These caves penetrate deeply: their depth has not been ascertained. There are also
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secret passages—from Tibet, through Kunlun, through Altyntag, through Turfan; the Long
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Ear knows of secret passages. How many people have saved themselves in these passages
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and caves! Reality has become a fairy tale. Just as the black aconite of the Himalaya
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has become the Fire-Blossom.
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When the white birch grew in our land, the White Tsar came and conquered our country.
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And the Tchud did not wish to remain under the White Tsar and went under the ground. And
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they covered themselves with stones”—“On the Ouimon they show you the Tchud graves
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covered with stones”—“On this spot the underground Tchud departed.” The migration of the
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nations has been imprinted there.
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Belovodye! The grandfather of Atamanoff and the father of Ognieff went in search of
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Belovodye: “Over the Kokushy Mountains. Through Bogogorshe. Over Ergor—by a special
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path. Whoever does not know the path will perish in the lakes or on the hungry steppe.
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It has happened also that the people from Belovodye have come out on horseback through
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special passages over Ergor. And also long ago it happened that a woman from Belovodye
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came out. High of stature, thin of figure, with face darker than ours. She was clad in a
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long skirt, a kind of sarafan. There are special dates for everything.”
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From the south and from the north, from the east and from the west, they are thinking of
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the same things. And the same evolutionary process is being impressed upon the best
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images. A center between the four oceans exists. Consciousness of the new world exists.
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Will the subterranean Tchud not return? Do not the Agharti, the subterranean people,
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saddle their horses? Does not the bell of Belovodye ring out? Does not the horseman ride
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over Ergor? On the ridges—on the Dalnyi and on the Studenyi, the peaks are aflame.
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“In 1923 Sokoliha with the people of Bukhtarma went to search for Belovodye. Not one of
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them returned. But recently there came letters from Sokoliha. She writes that she did
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not reach Belovodye but she lives well. Where she lives, she does not write. All know of
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Belovodye.”
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“Since when originated the news about Belovodye?”
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“The message came from the Kalmucks and the Mongols; originally they told our
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forefathers who lived according to the old belief and devotion.”
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Which means that at the base of information about Belovodye lies a communication from
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the Buddhist world. The same center of teaching of life is interpreted by the Old
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Believers. The way between the Argun , and Irtysh leads on to the same Tibet.
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They write about the magnetic storms and the unusual temperature and about various
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natural phenomena due to condensation of the sun spots. Next year the effect of the
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spots will be still more significant. Unusual northern lights are possible. There may be
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shocks of the nervous system. How many legends are connected with sun spots, those
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menacing wrinkles of the luminary.
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Ramsana left for Ladak. He could not stand the low places of the north. “Either I leave
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or die” Of course, Ladakis pass their whole lives on heights not lower than - twelve
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thousand feet. It is a pity for Ramsana. One can confidently depend on Ladakis to watch
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things. The Oirot drivers are not like the Ladakis.
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Vakhramey counts the number of wagons and agricultural machines. The Old Believer’s
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heart has assimilated the machines. Sanely he estimates the industry of Germany and
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America. Sooner or later they will certainly work with America. The people remember the
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Americans. They value the frank character of the Americans and are aware of the common
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traits. “Come to work with us!” they call to the Americans. This friendly call has
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penetrated throughout all Asia.
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After discussing industry, Vakhramey begins to murmur, chantingly, some tale; I catch:
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“And receive me, thou most peaceful desert. . . . And how shall I receive thee? I, the
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desert, possess neither mansions nor palaces in me.” . . .
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It is familiar to me: the tale about Jasaf. “Dost thou know, Vakhramey, about whom thou
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singest? Thou singest about Buddha. Because the *Bodhisatv* has been transformed
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into Jasaf.”
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So Buddha merged into the Kerjak consciousness. The plowed fields led them to the
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machines and cooperation to Belovodye.
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But Vakhramey is not only versed in the cooperative movement and in canticles. According
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to the covenant of the wise ones, he is not astonished at anything; he knows the ores
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and the deer; he knows the little bees and especially the secret traditions. He knows
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the herbs and the flowers. This is indisputable. And not only does he know how and where
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the flowers grow, and where the roots are hidden, but he loves them and delights in
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them. Gathering a great bunch of vari-colored grasses, that reach up to his gray beard,
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his face lights up. And he pets them. And caressingly he speaks of their usefulness.
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Here is verily Panteleon the Healer. It is not dark witchery but knowledge drawn from
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experience. Greetings, Vakhramey Semeonich! For thee, on Himalaya, does the Fire-Blossom
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grow!
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And here is Vakhramey’s sister, Aunt Elena. She is both a healer and a painter of
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verdure and a skillful writer. She also knows herbs and flowers. She can decorate any
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kind of casement with ochre and madder-lake and red-lead. On the doors and casements,
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she can paint all types of grass designs. Or she will adorn them with bright little
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birds and a ferocious yellow lion as a guard. No important letter in the village can be
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written without her . . . “And to whom art thou writing?—to thy son? Let me tell thee
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how to write”—And a long, compassionate, heartfelt epistle, full of poetic spirit, would
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flow forth. Such a capable woman!
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“With the people of Bukhtarma we do not wish to associate! You see, they appeared as
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comrades but really came to rob, and the most characteristic thing was their ancient
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sarafan. . . . And so now they are called ‘Sarafaniki.’ Now, of course, they have
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reformed. If you meet one—he turns away his face, because he still is human and feels
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ashamed. . . . Now we ought to have real American machines. It is time to free the
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horses.” ...
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Again one sees a striving toward vigilant cooperation. And new herds are fattening on
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the high ridges. And from the Studenyi summit one can see best Beluha itself—of whom
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even the deserts whisper.
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Everything bears the traces of the civil war. Here on the highway, a Red regiment was
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destroyed by ambush. Here in the Katun they drowned the Whites. On the mountain ridge
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are lying the red Commissars. And under Katanda, the Kerjak psalmist, an old believer,
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was hacked with sabers. Many graves on the roads; and near them grows thick new grass.
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As birds on the branches, so from mouth to mouth flit words forgotten and not recognized
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by any one. The inhabitants in Trans-Baikal calls a spider *misguir.* And a guest
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merchant is called *misguir*—according to the Siberian interpretation, simply a
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spider. What kind of Turki idiom helped here? Wind, in the language of the people in
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Trans-Baikal, is *hiyus*—this is completely beyond understanding. The root is
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neither Mongolian nor Yakut.
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On the *taiga* toward Kousnetzk they eat fitches and marmots. This is dangerous
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because marmots bring on the bubonic plague. They say that the infection disappears from
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the fur under the influence of sun rays. But who can ascertain when the rays have effect
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and how much? Whence came the famous Spanish influenza, so similar in form to the
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bubonic plague? Is it not from furs? Mongolia is often the breeding place for epidemics.
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And the cattle plague is also very common. One gets used to everything. In Lahore, in
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Srinagar, in Baramula, cholera was raging when we were there. In Khotan there was small
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pox; in Kashgar, scarlet fever. One gets used to anything.
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Oirot horses are sturdy, as are also the horses from Kuldja and Olet. The Karashahr race
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horses and Badakhshans are not sturdy and are less adaptable for the mountains.
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The Mongols and Buriats are anxious to see various countries. They want to visit Germany
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and France. They love America and Germany. The need of broadening one’s horizon is
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demonstrated by them in an ancient parable of a frog and a turtle: The frog lived in a
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well and the turtle in the ocean. But the turtle came to the frog and told him of the
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vastness of the ocean. . . . “In your opinion is the ocean twice as large as my well?” .
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. . “Much larger,” answered the turtle. “Wouldst thou say three times as large as my
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well?” . . . “Much larger.” . . . “And four times as large?” . . . “Much larger” . . .
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Then the frog chased away the turtle as a boaster and a liar. . . .
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The Popovtsi, the Bezpopovtsi, the Striguni, the Priguni, the Pomortsi, the Netovtsi
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(not recognizing anything, but considering themselves “of the old faith”) afford many
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incomprehensible discussions. And toward Trans-Baikal among the Semeiski (Old Believers
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exiled to Siberia with their entire families), also are added the Temnovertsi, and the
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Kalashniki. Each one of the Temnovertsi has his own ikon closed with little doors, to
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which he alone prays. If someone else should pray to the same ikon, it would become
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unfit! Still more strange—the Kalashniki. They pray before the ikon through a little
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opening in a *k**alach* (a loaf of bread). We have heard much, but such
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obscure beliefs we have never seen nor heard of—and in the summer of 1926! Here are also
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Hlysti, Pashkovtzi, Stundisti and Molokans. Among the green and blue hills, among the
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*taiga* thickets, one cannot perceive all curves. Glancing at the beard and low
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fillet, one cannot judge what the heavy-garbed man whom we encounter is carrying with
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him.
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Ust Kan is the last telegraph station. From there we sent the first telegram ever sent
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to America. The telegraph operator was upset. He offered to send it by mail to Biisk. He
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had never dealt with such a fearful animal as America! But we insisted. And he promised
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to send it after consulting Biisk.
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It is planned to extend the railroad line to Katanda, in two stages from Beluha. Up to
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Katanda, even in pre-war times a railroad line from Barnaul was planned—connecting the
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heart of Altai with Semipalatinsk and Novosibirsk. They say that even *then* the
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engineers went through this line. “Yes? When, ‘then’?” . . . “Yes, it is known before
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the war.” . . . The mysterious “then” becomes synonymous with the “pre-war epoch.” From
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Peking one can go on a “Dodge” up to Urumchi itself, which means also up to Kuldja, up
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to Chuguchak, up to Semipalatinsk. Life forges a vital web of communication.
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Tales creep in from Kobdo. Every one is interested in conveying to us at least something
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of unknown Mongolia, of the land of magnetic storms, mirages of the sun, and cruciform
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moons. Every one wants to know about Mongolia. . . . Everything is strange. They tell of
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a sentinel who was eaten by dogs. He hacked seven of them, but could not save himself
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from the pack. A Mongolian commander in Uliasutai ate a human heart. There are some who
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say it was a Russian and some who think it was a Chinese. On the Iro and toward Urianhai
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there is much gold. Also on the Iro a strange boy who pronounced some prophecy was born
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to a Shaman woman. They whisper about the reincarnation of the Mongolian Bogdo Gegen.
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And others say that another unusual being was also born in China. But authorities do not
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recognize either the one or the other: Bogdo Gegen was never reborn either as Mongolian
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or Chinese, but always in Tibet. On the way from Uliasutai to Kobdo some wild people in
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furs jumped out and threw stones at the machine. They were so-called Guards! On the way
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to Manchuria from a cliff “mineral oil” flows into the desert. There also exist such
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magnetic places that even an automobile slows up.
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Thus at the cross-road are woven complicated carpets of Asiatic design. And how can they
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exist without news? In this case, it would not be worthwhile to go to a far-off
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*ail* and to drink tea with a strong essence of tales. Mongolia attracts
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attention.
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“Blacksmiths of Kurumchi”—strange incomprehensible people, who not only passed but also
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lived within the boundaries of Altai and Trans-Baikal. The generally accepted divisions
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of Huns, Alans and Goths are divided into manifold unaccountable subdivisions. To such
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an extent is everything obscured that coins with exact dates are sometimes attributed to
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completely non-correlating, temporarily established periods. Stagstones, Kereksuri,
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stone figures; walls of nameless cities—although all have been written about and
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counted, yet the paths of the peoples have not been clarified. How remarkable are the
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textures from the last Hun’s graves which completed the famous Siberian antiquities!
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There exists a legend about a Black Stone, which appears at the dates of great events.
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If you compare all the verbal dates of India, Tibet, Egypt and Mongolia, then their
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coincidence will remind you that apart from the record of historians, there is being set
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down another history of the world. It is especially significant to compare the testimony
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of completely unrelated nationalities.
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The Kalmucks and Mongols recognize from traces left by horses and camels, the origin and
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the quantity of the cargo. They will say: “A horseman passed here, leading two horses.
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Two horses are worn out and the third one is fresh.” Or “A herd of horses passed by and
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with the herd are two horsemen.” . . .
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Different occurrences from the recent wars were related to us. One horseman volunteered
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to force the surrender of a whole regiment. He took his comrade and a big drove of
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horses. “More,” he said, “is not needed.” He drove the horses in the direction of the
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wind and he himself went with his comrade to negotiate. He demanded, “Surrender your
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arms at once, otherwise I will lead my whole army upon you.” They reflected, perceiving
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the pillars of dust from the drove; then they surrendered the army. And the audacious
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fellow commanded his comrade to go in advance and lead back the troop. Thus he forced a
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whole regiment to surrender. This is not a fairy tale of Jengis-Khan. It is a recent
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event.
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Rumors even outride the motors—they will go on horseback for two hundred miles to drink
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tea.
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Again they report: “It is rumored that you were lost.” Is it possible that for a second
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time they will bury one? Whence is this unquenchable desire for slander and false
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inventions? They say that many imitations of my paintings are circulating. They tell
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amusing stories and even mention several men who in this way, using my name, earned
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money. They say that V. and R. worked that way. I had a chance to see a few imitations
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before the war. I remember one very large painting not uncleverly composed from
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fragments of various of my works. The poor collector who called me to approve his
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purchase, was immeasurably grieved. Friends, they may bring such imitations to you to
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the Museum. Look, beware! So often it happened that we saw paintings as well as whole
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albums falsely signed. I remember one painting by Rustschitz signed with my name.
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They speak about the destruction of many of my paintings—“Call of the Serpent” is lost
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from the Academy. “The March,” “Unkrada,” “Building of the Walls,” “Sviatogor” and
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others are lost. Of course they consider them lost—but who knows? The paths of objects
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are so unexpected. Collecting Old Masters, we came across such subtle play of life.
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A woman traveler, a painter, visits us. A geological expedition comes. A conversation
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about artists: Juon, Mashkov, Kanchalovsky, Lentulof, Saryan, Kustodief hold their
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ground.... Benois is shaky. Dobujhinsky went to Lithuania. They do not mention Somof.
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They do not know that Bakst has died. The young ones are growing. Stchuseff and Stchuko
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go forward boldly. The woman painter walks about, sketches old corners, gates, window
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casements, various beams and the little horses on cornices, as though making an
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inventory before a distant journey. The various tiny horses will depart from the roofs.
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Let them depart, as well as the pattern of the chintzes. But with what will they be
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replaced? The “Viennese” chair and the fading calico do not bring in culture. Here is a
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task for the young: Give an image of the future life. From factory whistles and from the
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peal of bells someone has synchronized a symphony; though as yet it is unsuccessful, the
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whole conception is truly resonant. And thus for the building of a house an alert hand
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is necessary and dispassionate labor. Here Ikon painters from Mastersky, Palehovsky and
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Holuisky lent the work new importance.
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In the East, they apply the externalization of sensitiveness not only to separate
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individuals but also to groups and seemingly to whole districts. The result is a
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tremendous experiment in the application of psychic energy. And all this is being done
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silently and anonymously.
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Behold and be surprised: books, paintings, songs, dances and buildings—all these are
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sent out upon the waves of the world anonymously. Books are attributed, according to
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tradition, to a certain author, but he himself does not put his name upon the
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manuscript. Paintings are not signed; the name of the architect of Potala is not
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inscribed. On faience, on ceramics, on metal art crafts one can sometimes see the
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trade-mark but not the name. And in this fundamental anonymity the East has left the
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West far behind. One must learn from the East, but for that one must absorb the
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psychology of the East. The East does not love false visitors; the East easily discerns
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masquerading imitations. And the East will never forget its decision. The judgment of
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the East is rendered at the very first moment. All the patches of corrections only serve
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to intensify the clownishness of the imitative attire.
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The discovery of Theremin: “We saw on the screen the motion of human hands which took
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place at the same time behind the wall in the next room.” At last the “miraculous”
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becomes “scientific.” Finally, one begins to turn to the real study of all of the
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properties of energy.
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Just when we did not ask; just when we did not expect, he himself spoke and demonstrated
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his knowledge of special places. Our simpletons would have considered this a fairy tale
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or an unusual revelation; yet here he smilingly closed his yellow khalat and proved his
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knowledge of certain ones and where they live. “And with that place, now for fifteen
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years there have been no communications.”
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To the Tashi Lama in Peking came a group of Chinese asking for passports for the passage
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to Shambhala. This reminded us of the letter which was written from Boston to Shambhala.
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Whence and how has this Chinese group come together? Were they attracted by the
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wanderings of Lao-Tzin? Or because of older writings? Or by the book of the Abbot of
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Wu-t’ai-shan. Some time ago one would have ridiculed that fact but now a great deal has
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occurred. The literature has become so enriched that the recent invention and “magic”
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have passed into the laboratory of research. And the skeptics are indignant, but only
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because of their complete ignorance and unenlightenment. Even the most obtuse thinkers
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ask “What does it mean?” One may speak about the significance of that which happens but
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the fact itself by now does not remain unobserved.
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They tell of the experiment of Manouilof, who has made researches into the sex of plants
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and minerals and also into the masculine and feminine origin of human blood. Experiment
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with the mineral “pyrite” gives a result long since indicated by the science of the
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East: “Pyrite produces crystals of two kinds—one a kind of cube and the other a form of
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dodecahedron. If the very same reaction is poured into the test tube with cubic
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crystals—one will get a discoloration of fluid—the masculine reaction. And if the same
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be performed with the dodecahedron crystals, a purple color results—the feminine
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reaction.” For the West this discovery is new but the ancient formulae of the East speak
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of the dodecahedron as the Mother of the World—the feminine beginning. They also point
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out about the purple physical feminine emanation. You can imagine with what calm smile
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the scientist of the East listens to the “new” discoveries of the West. “Hemoglobin in
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the blood of animals and chlorophyle in the juice of plants are similar in their
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nature.” And the scientist of the East nods, as a sign of an age-long assent.
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Know! Know without fear and in the entire measure.
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When at last will people walk out of the foggy twilight of “mysticism,” to the study of
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sunlit reality? When will the darkness of the cave transform itself into the radiance of
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space?
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The horns of the deer and the jet of Kabarga up to now are regarded as precious wares.
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One must make research into the healing qualities of the powdered horn of the deer. The
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spring blood which fills these woolly horns of course is permeated with a strong
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excretion. What is the difference between the musk of the Tibetan ram and the musk of
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Altaian Kabarga? The Kabarga feeds upon the nettle of the cedar and the larch. Altaians
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chew the gum of fir tree tar. All the properties of musk must be investigated.
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We are stopping in the former chapel of the Old Believers. On the walls are still seen
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the four corners of the former ikons. In the next room a red chalice is painted on the
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wall. Wherefore? At the gates sits a white dog. He came with us. Whence?
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The White Burkhan, of course, is also the Blessed Buddha. In the region of Ak-Kem are
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traces of radio-activity. The water in Ak-Kem is milky white. Pure Belovodye. Through
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Ak-Kem the fiftieth latitude passes. We recall the conclusion of Csoma de Koros.
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About two o’clock in the night, on the second of August, east of the village Altaiskoye,
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a large, powerfully luminous meteorite fell. To the south of Verkhiniouimon, last year,
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on the summit of the ridges, stones and sand were erupted as if by an explosion. A pit
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was formed.
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“Unspilled Chalice”—the most blue, the most reverberant mountains. Purity itself as in
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Phalut. And he carries from the mountains his chalice.
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“The Blacksmith forges the fate of humanity, on the Siver Mountains.” The grave of
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Sviatogor is on Siver Mountain. The Siver Mountains—Sumyr, Subur, Sumbyr,
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Siberian-Sumeru. The exact center from the four oceans. In Altai, on the right bank of
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Katun, there is a mountain. Its significance is being likened to the world-mountain,
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Sumeru. Sayn Galabyn sudur is “the narrative of the Good Era.”
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All the trees were charmed against harming Baldur. One mistletoe was forgotten—and the
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arrow from this very mistletoe struck Baldur. All the animals gave blessings for the
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building of the temple in Lhasa, but one, the gray bull, was forgotten and he was the
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one who, in the form of an impious king, rebelled later against the true teaching.
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Nothing that exists can be neglected in the structure. “Even a mouse will gnaw through
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the knots.”
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Katun is welcoming. The Blue Mountains are resonant. White is Beluha. The flowers are
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vivid and the green grasses and cedars are calming. Who has said that Altai is cruel and
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unapproachable? Whose heart has become fearful of the austere power and beauty?
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On the seventeenth of August we beheld Beluha. It was so clear and reverberant. Verily,
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Zvenigorod!
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Beyond Beluha there appears the crests of Kunlun so beloved to the heart, and beyond
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that “the mountain of the Divine Queen” and “Five Treasure Troves of the Snows.” And
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herself, “the Queen of the White Snows,” and all the written and unwritten, the spoken
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and the unspoken.
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“Between the Irtysh and Argun. Over Kokushi. Through Bogogorshi, over Ergor itself,
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rides a horseman.