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# George Roerich. Trails to the Inmost Asia
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## IV. Khotan – Kashgar
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**January 28, 1926** [Zawa](/#m=9/37.21693/79.63097&l=Gs&p=54/o)
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In the early morning of January 28, 1926, our courtyard and garden were crowded with
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pack horses and caravan men in heavy sheepskins and dark red *charuqs*—a scene
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familiar to anyone who has traveled in the caravan region of Asia. The bustle was great
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and it took us five hours to start the baggage caravan marching. The tents and the rest
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of the camp equipment had to go in advance, and for this purpose the best horses were
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given to the camp detachment. This detachment had to leave camp last, and arrive at the
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new camp first. The caravan men, mostly Turki from Khotan, were sadly lacking in
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initiative and performed their tasks with surprising carelessness.
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Most of the pack horses were big animals from Yarkend, capable of carrying about two
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hundred pound loads. Their general condition was good and we could hope to arrive in
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Kashgar on time. The Turkestan pack saddle is much superior to the wooden pack saddles
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of Ladak and Tibet. It consists of two thick saddle cloths, on which is fixed the saddle
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cushion—U-shaped and made of sheepskin or cloth well stuffed with straw. The load is
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fixed to the saddle by ropes, made of camel's or sheep's wool. Travelers are
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warned not to use hemp ropes of Chinese or European make, for they are apt to cause
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sores. Ropes made of camel's wool are very good; those made out of sheep's wool
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are much inferior.
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Several mounted soldiers in charge of an aged *shao-wei* or lieutenant were
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ordered to escort us as far as Yarkend, the next garrisoned oasis along the southern
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trade route. They all came and lined up in front of the house, the lieutenant holding
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the red visiting card of his superior officer in his raised hand. All the men were over
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fifty, and were dressed in voluminous gray coats and fur caps with large earflaps which,
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if necessary, could be buttoned in front of the face. Their arms consisted of old
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Mausers, and the officer had an old Chinese sword. We were much surprised at the age of
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these warriors, and inquired whether they intended to retire from service. The reply was
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that they had recently been promoted to the cavalry for gallant service! In Hsin-chiang
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a young soldier has to serve in infantry units, and only after he has passed an age
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limit or distinguished himself in service is he promoted to the grade of a mounted
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soldier or *ma-p'ing*. In Hsin-chiang, as in many other parts of China, a
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horse is only a means of transportation; a Chinese trooper is taught to sit on a horse,
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but never to ride it. A *beg* from Karakash and two *daroghas* were also
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delegated to attend to our needs on the journey. They were directed to accompany us to
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Guma Bazaar, the nearest administrative center on the Khotan-Yarkend route.
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We started only about noon, and rapidly rode through the Mohammedan and Chinese sections
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of Khotan. It was a bazaar day and the streets were thronged with a multicolored crowd
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of villagers. Our first stage was Zawa. The baggage caravan arrived late at night and we
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were obliged to spend several hours waiting for it in the garden of the official
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resthouse. The night was cool and we warmed ourselves at a huge camp fire made by the
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local villagers.
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Before starting from Khotan, our Chinese interpreter, Ts'ai ssu-yeh, had made a
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yellow flag marked with our name abbreviated to "Lo," stating the official
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designation of the expedition. This flag was intrusted to a *darogha*, who
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galloped ahead of us and planted the flag on the spot selected for our camp.
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In Zawa we found the flag planted on the roof of the resthouse. Ts'ai ssu-yeh was
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very wise to prepare this flag, for it saved us from many troubles with petty officials,
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who were always found to respect it even more than our Peking passports.
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In the evening we discovered that our soldiers and some of our Chinese servants were
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confirmed opium smokers. In the morning they were late getting up and considerably
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handicapped the work about the camp. An opium smoker is a great calamity in an
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expedition camp and we decided to avail ourselves of the next opportunity to get rid of
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them.
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**January 29, 1926** [Pialma](/#m=9/37.29018983/79.16475135&l=Gs&p=55/o) *Through: Ak-langar*
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The route from Zawa to Pialma has already been described in this volume. A brief halt
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was made at the Shrine Kum-rabat Padshahim. The modern Mohammedan shrine is situated on
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the spot of an ancient temple dedicated to sacred rats, built by a king of Khotan to
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commemorate his victory over the Hiung-nu, in which he was miraculously assisted by rats
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which destroyed the ammunition of the enemies.
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After the Pigeon Shrine, the trail left the sand dune belt and followed a broad gravel
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plain. A brief halt was made again to water the animals at Ak-langar—a desert resthouse
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built in the days of Yakub Beg. The resthouse has a well of brackish water.
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Pialma, the terminal oasis on the Duwa River, was reached late at night. The stars shone
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brilliantly when we entered the village. The camp was pitched in a garden belonging to
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the house of a wealthy landowner. There was a scarcity of drinking water, as all the
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water supply had dried up, and we were obliged to thaw the snow. The horses had to be
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watered at a place four miles distant.
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Late in the evening we had a visit from Dr. Nyström, of the Swedish Mission in Yarkend.
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He was hurrying to Khotan where two officers of the Governor's bodyguard had recently
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wounded each other. One of the men died shortly after the shooting, but the other
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recovered and was subsequently executed by order of the Governor. Dr. Nyström was
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traveling day and night in a Chinese cart, halting once in twenty-four hours to feed the
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horses.
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**January 30, 1926** [Zanguya](/#m=9/37.355627/78.793259&l=Gs&p=56/o)
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The march from Pialma to Zanguya led over a gravel desert. We instructed the
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*darogha*, who daily galloped ahead of us with a notice of our arrival, to
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prepare quarters for us in houses of well-to-do villagers and to avoid Chinese official
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resthouses with their noise and squalor.
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Shortly after our arrival in Zanguya, the lieutenant in charge of our guard arrived and
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requested me to look at their horses which had become unexpectedly ill. We found the
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animals lying in the stable, unable to stand on their feet. The fat animals, which were
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always kept in the stable and never given exercise, had succumbed to the fatigues of
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three days' marching. It was evident that they could go no farther and had to be
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left in Zanguya. I therefore advised the distressed lieutenant to hire horses from local
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peasants and to leave his own horses in charge of a soldier. He followed my advice and
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on the next morning he and his men were mounted on shaggy creatures with tremendous
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manes and tails. The local bronchos probably had seldom been ridden before and the
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escort had an exciting ride to Guma Bazaar. This is an important center with some seven
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hundred houses and the seat of a magistrate, who controls the vast mountain tracts
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around Sanju Oasis. It is renowned for its numerous orchards and mulberry groves. Its
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chief local industry is the manufacture of coarse paper. A spacious garden with a summer
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house was reserved for our camp. The gates of the garden were gaily decorated with red
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and yellow cloth and a group of local notables was waiting inside the garden.
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Soon after our arrival, we received the visit of the local magistrate.
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He was accompanied by his young son and a troop of armed policemen in strange uniforms
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and old muzzle-loading rifles. The magistrate was greatly concerned over our
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difficulties in Khotan and hinted that Ma Tao-yin was a man of dangerous habits. An
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authentic source had told him the story that the Governor of Khotan had stormed our
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headquarters and that he was repelled with heavy losses. How this story originated, it
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was impossible to learn. Rumors take strange shapes in Chinese Turkestan.
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Our servant T'ang, who had fallen ill a few days before, had to be left in care of
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the local magistrate, who promised to send him back to Khotan, as soon as he should feel
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better. T'ang was a confirmed opium smoker and the last four days of marching
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through the desert had completely broken down his reserve strength.
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In the evening we were visited by a traveling troop of actors. The *tamasha* or
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theatrical entertainment was illuminated with torchlights and Chinese paper lanterns.
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Most of the actors were local Turki, but the subjects of the scenes and the songs were
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Chinese. These *tamasha* are a feature of Turkestan life.
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**February 1, 1926** [Guma](/#m=9/37.61586/78.28514&l=Gs&p=57/o)
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At Guma, we were given another *beg* and *darogha* to accompany us to
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Karghalik.
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**February 2, 1926** [Siligh-langar](/#m=9/37.60714982019658/78.07254976785293&l=Gs&p=58/o) *Through: Cholak-langar*
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Our original plan was to camp at Cholak-langar, some eighteen miles from Guma, but fresh
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arrivals at Guma brought the news that the water supply at Cholak had completely dried
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up. We had to camp at Siligh-langar, some ten miles west of Guma. Siligh-langar
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consisted of several miserable mud hovels with a small inclosed courtyard filled with
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piles of firewood and bundles of hay. At night a large camel caravan bound for Tun-huang
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passed our camp and almost overturned some of our tents. The night was pitch dark and
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the camel drivers were sound asleep in their saddles. The droning sound of bells
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heralded the approach of the caravan column, marching at good pace. Before we were able
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to realize what was happening the dark silhouette of the huge caravan had entered our
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camp and the camels' feet were tearing our tent ropes. The energetic action of some
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of our men alone prevented further damage and a stampede of frightened animals.
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**February 3, 1926** [Akin-langar](/#m=9/37.81595/77.65265&l=Gs&p=59/o)
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Our next stop was Akin-langar, another relay station on the long thirty-four mile stage
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between Guma and Karghalik. So far we had enjoyed perfect weather, with warm days and
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cool nights. At Akin-langar the weather suddenly changed. A cold wind started up toward
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sunset and the temperature dropped below zero. Snow fell during the night and in the
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morning we found the desert covered by a thin layer of snow.
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**February 4, 1926** [Karghalik](/#m=9/37.887762/77.417384&l=Gs&p=60/o)
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The day was dull and heavy clouds hovered over the graveled expanse of the desert. A
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bitterly cold northwest wind made progress difficult and we were relieved when we
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entered the cultivation zone of Besh-arik.
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The city of Karghalik did not impress us as an important center. It is situated on one
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of the branches of the Tiznaf darya and through it passes the important Kokyar-Karakorum
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trade route. Most of the caravan owners on the Leh-Yarkend route are natives of
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Karghalik. The town was suffering from a scarcity of drinking water and we found the
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population breaking ice in a dirty pool in the very center of the bazaar. The local
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magistrate had arranged quarters for us in an official resthouse, but it was too small
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for such a large party as ours. We accordingly moved out and camped in a garden
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belonging to a well-to-do landowner. In the evening another group of actors entertained
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us with a *tamasha*, followed by a performance of two Chinese jugglers who
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demonstrated their art with swords and spears, handling the heavy swords with remarkable
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dexterity. It was late at night when we returned to our tents.
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**February 5, 1926** [Posgam](/#m=9/38.19232/77.27387&l=Gs&p=61/o)
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In the morning we experienced considerable difficulty with relay horses for our soldiers
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and camp servants. Strange to say, the soldiers always appealed to us in case of
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difficulty. That morning they were unable to find saddle horses, and we had to intervene
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for them with the local *beg*. After prolonged shouting and beating, during which
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two men were severely lashed by an infuriated headman, the horses were produced and our
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caravan started for Posgam.
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At Posgam we encountered a group of Shikarpuri money lenders and several traders from
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Hoshiarpur, who led us to the private house of the local *ming-bashi*. The wooden
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carvings on the columns strikingly reminded me of the ancient fragments of wood carvings
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discovered by Sir Aurel Stein during his explorations in the ancient sites along the
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southern trade route. These Turkestan carvings closely resemble some of the wood
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carvings found in the old churches of South Russia. This particular style must have once
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had an immense spread along the greatest highway of Asia, passing through the belt of
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steppe and desert country and stretching from the Carpathian Mountains to the Great Wall
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of China.
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**February 6 — 7, 1926** [Yarkend](/#m=9/38.39536/77.25689&l=Gs&p=62/o)
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On February 6, we started very early in order to reach Yarkend in the forenoon. Some
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five miles from Posgam, we met a servant of the Ladak *aqsaqal* who sent us a
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message inviting us to stay in his summer house situated in the suburb of Yarkend—an
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invitation which we gladly accepted. We crossed the Yarkend darya on rafts. It took us
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fully two hours to bring across our saddle horses and the detachment of pack horses with
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the camping outfit. We hurried to Yarkend through dusty lanes lined with
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*toghraks* or desert poplars on either side.
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The house of the Ladak *aqsaqal*, Abdul Razak, proved an ideal place for our stay
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in Yarkend. It was clean and had a spacious garden with roomy courtyards and good
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stables. The owner had a very fluent knowledge of Lhasan Tibetan, having spent several
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years of his life in Lhasa. His family enjoyed a considerable reputation in the trading
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world of central Asia. His eldest brother was *aqsaqal* in Kashgar, another was
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*aqsaqal* in Leh, and a third one was at the head of a big trading establishment
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in distant Lhasa. The *aqsaqal's* assistance proved invaluable to us. We
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spent the evening with the *aqsaqal*, who possessed a vast experience with tribes
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and different regions of central Asia. The morning of the next day was occupied by
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official visits to the local authorities.
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Yarkend impressed us as being a much more active and thriving place than Khotan. It is
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the chief *entrepôt* of Indian and Afghan trade and its roofed bazaars and
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*chaikhaneh* or restaurants were thronged by different nationalities. Yarkend is
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the largest oasis in the country. It is well watered by irrigation channels and has an
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extensive cultivation of rice, which is exported to Khotan and Kashgar. Besides rice,
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the oasis produces corn, wheat, barley, cotton, flax, hemp, sesamum, and tobacco.
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According to recent official estimates, the population of the oasis is over 200,000. The
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Mohammedan town or Kone-shahr is surrounded by a brick wall with several towers. The
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Han-ch'eng or Chinese section lies to the northwest of the native quarter. The
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Afghan Government maintains a consul at Yarkend who, although not recognized by the
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Chinese as such, supervises the Afghan colony and its interests in the oasis. The most
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costly products of Afghan export are opium and Badakhshani horses. The trade is
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clandestine and the offenders are usually punished. For the past few years the export of
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Badakhshani horses has been prohibited by the *Amir*, and Afghan traders,
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traveling to Chinese Turkestan or elsewhere, have to sign a document that they will
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return to the country with their horses. Notwithstanding these strict measures,
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Badakhshani horses are constantly seen on the Yarkend market, the horse trade being
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carried on through Kirghiz traders.
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Most of the Yarkend trade is conducted with India and the Indian colony is the largest
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foreign colony in the oasis. The Chinese local authorities did their best to assist us
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with relay horses and travel arrangements. The local magistrate, a Cantonese by birth,
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was a superior type of official, keen to interest himself in the objects of geographical
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and archaeological research. The magistrate assured us that letters about our coming
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were received from Peking and that he could not understand the attitude of the Khotan
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authorities; according to him, Ma Ta-jen had become insane after the shooting at
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Kashgar.
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After our official calls, we paid a visit to the Swedish Mission which occupies a
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spacious compound, inside which are situated the Mission church, school buildings,
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hospital, and quarters for the members of the Mission. It was our first touch with
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Europe after six months of travel in Ladak, Karakorum, and Khotan.
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In the afternoon we received the return visit of the local magistrate who came
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accompanied by a detachment of cavalry, armed with Russian rifles and swords. The White
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Russian troops, retreating into Hsin-chiang, had left behind them a vast amount of arms
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and ammunition; and at the time of our visit, the Chinese troops in the Province were
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all armed with Russian weapons. The magistrate was very much interested in Professor
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Roerich's paintings, and showed a fine appreciation of paintings on Chinese
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subjects.
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The busy day was followed by a quiet evening. The Chinese escort from Khotan came to
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take leave, and each man received a present of three dollars. They expressed their
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desire to continue their service with the expedition and insisted that we should write
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to the Governor-General about it. Their place was taken by a guard of black-turbaned
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soldiers from the local garrison.
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**February 8, 1926** [Kok-rabat](/#m=9/38.5428/76.74465&l=Gs&p=63/o)
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It was a beautifully clear morning when we started from Yarkend. The snowy mountains
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west and northwest of the Yarkend Oasis were clearly visible against the pale background
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of the sky. There, beyond the snowy ramparts, lay the uplands of the great Pamirs and a
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fascinating border country, visited by only a few chosen ones.
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Our first stage led past the cultivated fields and hamlets of Yarkend Oasis. We reached
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Kok-rabat early in the day. A large crowd of local peasants surrounded the camp and
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dispersed only at dusk. Some strange rumors had reached the village and local people
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were anxious to see the newcomers.
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**February 9, 1926** [Kizil Bazaar](/#m=9/38.64798/76.5325&l=Gs&p=211/o)
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Next day we were in Kizil Bazaar—a half-ruined village with a vast desert plain called
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Karakum or "Black Sands."
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**February 10, 1926** [Yangi-hissar](/#m=9/38.92663/76.17843&l=Gs&p=64/o)
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The next stage to Yangi-hissar lay across a desert country intersected by hamlets with
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small patches of cultivation.
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We reached Yangi-hissar late in the afternoon and were warmly welcomed by Dr. Anderson
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and his family. We spent the evening with the hospitable missionaries in an enlightening
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conversation on the conditions of life in the Province, and the vast mineral resources
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of the country round Yangi-hissar and the mountain tracts west of the oasis.
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**February 11, 1926** [Yapchan](/#m=9/39.19821/76.17096&l=Gs&p=65/o)
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The distance from Yangi-hissar to Yapchan was covered in six hours. The proximity of a
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big thriving center began to be felt along the route. The traffic had considerably
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increased; long trains of Chinese carts loaded with merchandise, and numerous riders,
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were constantly passing our column. Yapchan is a considerable village and the last stage
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before Kashgar. We camped outside the village in a field, and an inquisitive but
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well-behaved crowd of native Turki stood watching us at a distance. A small boy with a
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native stringed instrument visited our camp and sang folk songs, many of which were
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composed in the days of the ill-fated Yakub Beg.
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**February 12 — 14, 1926** [Kashgar](/#m=9/39.46991/75.96683&l=Gs&p=66/o)
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On the next day, February 12, our caravan men were up long before dawn and through the
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door of the tent one could see the camp fires in the dark and the burly figures of men
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taking their morning meal. It was the last day for Temur Bai's caravan and he and
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his men were anxious to reach Kashgar early in the day. We overtook our baggage train
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which was already well on its way toward Kashgar.
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Not far from the Kashgar bridge we were greeted by several *chaprassis* or
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orderlies in scarlet uniforms, with a note from Major Gillan of the British consulate
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inviting us to luncheon. Outside the Chinese city we again met several riders who proved
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to be local *begs* and *daroghas*, sent from the *Tao-yin yamen* of
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Kashgar to welcome us.
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We rode straight to the consulate, where we received a friendly welcome from Major and
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Mrs. Gillan. It was strange to behold our dusty selves in the civilized surroundings of
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a western home. The consulate, overlooking the Tumen River, has an ideal situation and
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commands a good view of its banks. Our first day in Kashgar passed in conversation. We
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had to relate the story of all our difficulties in Khotan and discuss our future plans.
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A telegram had to be sent to the Governor-General in Urumchi announcing our arrival in
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Kashgar, and Mr. George Chu, late interpreter with the Chinese Labor Corps in France
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during the Great War and now Chinese secretary to the consulate, promised to interview
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the Kashgar *Tao-yin* and Mr. M. Y. Tao, his foreign secretary, with the view of
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obtaining necessary permissions for us.
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We established our headquarters in the spacious buildings of the Russo-Asiatic Bank,
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kindly put at the disposal of the expedition by the directors of the local branch.
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The Consul and all the European residents were of the opinion that it was absolutely
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necessary for us to go to Urumchi and negotiate with the Governor-General personally.
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This meant quite a change in our previous plans—instead of Tun-huang and Kansu, Urumchi
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and the country north of the T'ien Shan Mountains. The force of circumstance is
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often greater than the will of man. The Province of Hsin-chiang was agitated by a
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smoldering unrest, and the Hsin-chiang-Kansu border was reported to be in a state of
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war. Marshal Feng Yu-hsiang was said to be advancing through Kansu Province and Ma
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Ch'i, Chinese High Commissioner in Sining, was joining forces with him. The
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atmosphere was charged with anxiety and people were wondering whether the
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ill-disciplined troops of Yang Tseng-hsin would be able to check the advance of
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Feng's army.
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Kashgar is the true capital of Hsin-chiang south of the T'ien Shan Mountains. Before
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the revolution of 1917, it was the chief emporium of trade with Russian Turkestan. The
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virtual closing of the Russian border during the period of the Civil War had diverted
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trade to India across the difficult mountain route of the Karakorum. During our stay in
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Kashgar, the Irkeshtam route to Russian Turkestan was said to be reopening for trade and
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a steady stream of caravans and traders turned westward along the centuries-old route.
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Most of the horse caravans in Kashgar had been hired to ship goods from Kashgar to
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Andijan and we experienced some difficulty in finding horses for our further journey.
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The thronged bazaars of Kashgar and the vast amount of European, Indian, and Chinese
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goods displayed in the shops attested the great commercial interchange of the oasis.
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Every morning we went for a stroll or a ride in the Kashgar streets and bazaars. In the
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early hours of the morning, before the dust haze had enveloped the horizon, we could
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clearly see the Kashgar Range southwest of the city, towering from a height of some
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18,000 feet to more than 25,000 feet. The city with its gardens and plantations of rice
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along the banks of the Tumen River and the background of snowy mountains presented a
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typical picture of a central Asian town.
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The Kashgar bazaars, roofed with sacking and straw mats, were full of attractions to the
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visitor. These narrow, dark streets were a genuine ethnographical museum in which the
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student reveled in searching for new types. Here was a dark shop with Bukhara and Khiva
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wares and Samarkand carpets. A dark-bearded Andijani merchant sat among his colorfully
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ornamented coffers; these remind one of the early Renaissance coffers in Italy. The
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wonderful period of the early Italian Renaissance had many links with the countries of
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the distant Orient. In another shop a white-bearded Afghan offered the products of his
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native land and Indian spices. His neighbor was a Chinese trader selling large Chinese
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spectacles with massive frames. Unfortunately these old-time spectacles give way
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nowadays to the far more practical snow goggles from India. In remote parts of central
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Asia, the large Chinese spectacles are one of the attributes of official standing and
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Kirghiz and Mongol princes and headmen always wear them, regardless of whether they need
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them or not.
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The next shop was a true monetary museum. The owner kept in stock various coins and
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banknotes from a dozen different countries. Indian rupees, old Russian rubles, different
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Chinese *taels*, and banknotes issued by the various regional governments of the
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time of the Russian Civil War—all were represented on the shelves and in the iron
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coffers of the shop. After the Russian revolution and the depreciation of the ruble,
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local traders had bought at low prices a tremendous amount of imperial Russian gold
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rubles and banknotes of different issues, with the hope that they might sometime regain
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their original value. They are all millionaires so far as the number of banknotes are
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concerned, and curiously enough they count these mythical millions in their business
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transactions. The next shop presented something quite out of the ordinary. The owner of
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this establishment specialized in a variety of uniforms, among which generals'
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uniforms with huge golden epaulets and a profusion of gold crown lace were prominent.
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Some of the local officials and Kirghiz headmen are said to be very fond of these queer
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attires. Among the exhibited uniforms, I found one of a Russian high school student and
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wondered whence it had come and to what mountain *ail* or nomad encampment it
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would ultimately find its way to bewilder a future explorer.
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Kashgar boasts of a carriage factory which supplies covered carriages of an antiquated
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pattern to all officials throughout the vast Dominion. These strange looking carriages
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are usually painted in bright colors, such as vivid green, ochre, or blue, and as a rule
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are lined with violet or dark red velvet.
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The crowd that thronged the bazaar streets became greater while we watched them. Here
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were Kirghiz tribesmen from the border, Andijan traders in colorful striped coats,
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dark-robed Chinese, and crowds of city traders in their long dark blue *chapans*.
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On a bazaar day the crowd is so dense that horsemen have no place to pass and the air
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resounds with a continuous yell and lashing of whips.
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Kashgar is not rich in remains of the past. The few known sites and *stupas* have
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been visited and described by Sir Aurel Stein and the German expedition of Dr. Le Coq.
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**February 15 — 18, 1926** [Kashgar](/#m=9/39.46991/75.96683&l=Gs&p=66/o)
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On February 15 we paid a formal visit to the local
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*Tao-yin*
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, a jovial fat man, who seemed intensely interested in our difficulties in Khotan.
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Notwithstanding the mediation of the British Consul, our arms were not returned, but
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remained sealed in their case, which was intrusted to our custody!
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The permission for painting and excavations was not granted, but the
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*Tao-yin*
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hinted that we could proceed with our work and should refrain from painting or
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excavations only if asked to do so by the local authorities. Our passports were found
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correct, and Mr. Tao, the foreign secretary to the
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*Tao-yin*
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, drafted an additional letter of introduction, recommending us to the various
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authorities on the northern route.
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**February 19 — 25, 1926** [Kashgar](/#m=9/39.46991/75.96683&l=Gs&p=66/o)
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On February 19 the much delayed reply came from the Governor-General. His Excellency
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expressed his earnest desire to make our personal acquaintance in his capital, to which
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we were cordially invited. Nothing was mentioned about the permission to continue our
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artistic and scientific work. In spite of all our efforts a sufficient number of pack
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horses was not to be found, and we had to have recourse to Chinese carts. These
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two-wheeled carts are pulled by four horses, three in one row and one in front, that
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usually take a good deal of nagging. The journey to Urumchi takes about seventy-four
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days by cart, each stage with an average length of eighteen to twenty miles. The owners
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of the carts from Kashgar undertook to carry our baggage to Kuchar, where we would have
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to hire new carts to Urumchi.
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We were obliged to change our Indian rupees into Urumchi *lans* or
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*liangs* with the value of one-third of the Kashgar *sar*, for the oases
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or *pei-lu* along the northern route accept only the Urumchi *lan*. In
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buying Urumchi *lans* one has to be very careful to get genuine ones. Sometimes
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the banknotes are so torn that new pieces are pasted to them regardless of the serial
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numbers.
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We were forced to leave Ts'ai ssu-yeh behind in Kashgar. The old man insisted on
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smoking opium, and as a result became so weak that he could hardly stand on his feet. We
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paid him a sum covering his traveling expenses by cart to China, in case he decided to
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return to his native province of Szu-ch'uan. To keep him with us was quite
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impossible, for he quarreled with the rest of the servants and was unable to look after
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himself.
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We were able to hire ten pack ponies owned by two Ladaki men with an understanding to
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carry our camp outfit from Kashgar to Karashahr, a great horse center, where we hoped to
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be able to hire a new caravan of horses or mules for our camp. The expedition personnel
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now consisted of a variety of nationalities—one Orenburg Cossack, one Mongol, one Balti,
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one Chinese, four Ladakis, and three Turkis, one of whom proved exceptionally hard
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working and accompanied the expedition to the frontiers of Siberia.
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**February 26, 1926** [Yamdom](/#m=9/39.40377/76.22598&l=Gs&p=160/o)
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On February 26 the whole of the European colony assembled to see us off. Our carts
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started in the early morning escorted by three mounted soldiers from the local garrison,
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who were to accompany us to Faizabad, the next garrisoned town on the route.