Home A - Z
Page Index

Blame

f0b340 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-08 20:44:11
Impo
1 
# Nicholas Roerich. Altai-Himalaya
afee3c Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:49:04
Import diaries from HTML
2
b8b8de Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-18 13:44:08
Impo
3
## V. Lamayuru–Hemis (1925)
afee3c Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:49:04
Import diaries from HTML
4
5
---
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
6
f0b340 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-08 20:44:11
Impo
7
8
9
<!-- block4placeid:null -->
10
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
11
Among the manuscripts in the ancient Chinese watch-towers were found dictionaries and
12
the biographies of famous women. Such was the modernity of ancient peoples.
13
14
When you already know the beauties of Asia, and are accustomed to all the richness of
15
its colors, nevertheless they again astonish you, and again elate your feelings, so that
16
you feel able to accomplish the impossible.
17
18
Flies, mosquitoes, fleas, earwigs! All possible gifts has Kashmir. Our departure was not
19
without bloodshed. In Tangmarg a band of ruffians attacked our caravan and began to beat
20
our men with iron rods; seven of our men were hurt. It was necessary to preserve order
21
with revolvers and rifles. In Ghund, our hostlers fed the horses with poisonous grass;
22
the horses began to shiver and finally lay down. The entire night they had to be walked
23
up and down. My horse, Mastan, suffered especially, and also Sabsa, that of George. The
24
drivers made fires around the ammunition box. A wildcat crept into the tent under
25
George’s bed.
26
27
Sattar Khan (our caravan leader) brought five ragamuffins: “This is a special guard from
28
the village. For in the neighborhood many Afridi (from Afghan) are wandering. They may
29
rob.” The ragamuffins slept near the tents. Nobody came to rob.
30
31
Did the ancient Goths not compare Kashmir with the Tyrol? Or with the Rhine?
32
Transparent, ephemeral, flitting is the beauty of Kashmir. It is difficult to imagine
33
oneself in mighty Asia. Further, further—beyond, to the rocks and amber sands.
34
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
35
<a id="t4p-21-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:21 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
36
Wet, rainy Baltal. We had not yet succeeded in spreading the wet tents when there arose
37
a new provocation. A policeman came with a report that our people had at that moment
38
just destroyed a sanitary post and had seriously insulted the doctor. Fortunately, the
39
guard at the railway station did not confirm this evil invention. We again bid our men
40
not to answer any insults. The caravaneers insisted upon our spending an extra day in
41
Baltal because of their fear of avalanches on Zoji. We discussed, walked, reconnoitered
42
on the mountain and with hesitation decided to move on. There were no avalanches,
43
although as always on the edges of the mountain, there may have been separate falling
44
stones. Upon the pass, as usual, was an icy wind. The fur coats became lighter than
45
gauze!
46
47
The Balti had a stomach ache. Thoughtlessly, we gave him cognac. At once, three more
48
“became sick”; and when we gave them laxatives they began to demand the same medicine as
49
we gave to the first one.
50
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
51
<a id="t4p-25-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:25 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
52
In the field near Dras remarkably beautiful women were working. They were of an Arabian
53
type, dressed in black shirts with black bands on their heads. We thought these were
54
Dards but were told they were Afridi, who came to the summer pastures from Afghan; these
55
are the ones of whom the people are afraid.
56
57
There are stories of how caravans were looted: one Tibetan caravan was captured by the
58
Amban of Sining. The other was destroyed completely by a Mongolian Ja-lama, who,
59
beginning his career as a statesman, finished as a feudal bandit.
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
60
Hiskhoshuns, up to now, are marauding in Tsaidam.
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
61
62
There are stories about the high interest which is extorted by the Sinkiang officials
63
and army officers. All loan money on interest, exacting up to twenty per cent per month.
64
It is terrible.
65
66
We encounter the passing caravans. All sorts of people—Dards, Baltis, Ladakis, Astoris
67
and Yarkandis. The tongues are completely different. It is like an exodus of nations.
68
69
After Zoji all changed. Kashmir remained behind with all its poisonous herbs, cholera
70
and insects. Crossing the icy bridges over a thundering river, we seemed to cross into
71
another country. People seem more honest; the streams seem more health-giving; the herbs
72
are more curative and the stones are multi-colored. And the air itself seems
73
exhilarating. Mornings are brisk—as of the first autumn frosts. In the afternoon there
74
is a clear dry heat. The rocks are purple and green of hue. Grasses are golden like rich
75
carpets. And the recesses of the mountains as well as the slime of the river-bed and the
76
healing aromatic herbs—all are prepared to contribute their gifts. Here verily great
77
decisions are possible.
78
79
Beyond Dras we encounter the first Buddhist message. Near the road are two
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
80
stone stelae representing Maitreya. Nearby, a stone
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
81
with the image of a rider. Is this rider not upon a white horse? Is this not a messenger
82
of the new world? It is remarkable that this first Buddhist emblem happens to be just
83
the image of Maitreya.
84
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
85
<a id="t4p-30-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:30 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
86
In Maulbeck, we visited a typical Tibetan home of the old order. We climbed up on a
87
slanting ladder as on a raised bridge. Within was the house chapel, and an odor of
88
incense. We found a portly hostess—a widow. From the balconies is a wondrous view,
89
encompassing all the mountains and a fantasy of sand formations. The rooms are peaceful.
90
Upon the floor near the door, a girl squeezes out vegetable oil for lamps. Behind her is
91
the skin of a yak, and her head is crowned by a weighty headdress of turquoise.
92
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
93
<a id="t4p-30-N2"></a><!-- text4placeid:30 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
94
In Dras is the first sign of Maitreya. But in ancient Maulbeck, a gigantic image of the
95
Coming One powerfully stands beside the road. Every traveler must pass by this rock. Two
96
hands reach toward the sky, like the summons of far-off worlds. Two hands reach downward
97
like the benediction of earth. They know that Maitreya is coming. Is it not about this
98
gigantic image that Fa-hsien wrote in his diaries? So it would seem.
99
100
The Monastery, Maulbeck, with two temples and endless ruins, crowns the rocks with an
101
unusually heroic chord. As a precious bronze wedge! And the country of forgotten heroism
102
is asleep. Forgotten is the legend of Herodotus about ants bringing gold from the shore
103
of the Indus. But some remember about this gold. And Gessar-Khan promises to open the
104
gold fields upon a certain date to the people who will be worthily able to meet the
105
coming tide of Maitreya—the age of universal unity ordained by Buddha himself.
106
107
Ladaki drivers, who are Buddhists, wash their hands and heads, and rinse their mouths
108
before each meal. And they sing resoundingly and joyously. And my black hostler begins a
109
dance on the road. We go merrily. We observe the colors and silhouettes of the rocks.
110
111
Whoever built Lamayuru and Maulbeck knew what was true beauty and fearlessness. Before
112
such expanse, before such decorations, Italian cities pale. And these solemn rows of
113
stupas are like joyous torches upon tourmaline sands. Where will one find such
114
decoration as the castle of “Tiger’s Peak,” or the endless ruins of the castles crowning
115
all the slopes near the Tibetan Kharbu? Where lies a country equal to these forsaken
116
spots? Let us be just and bow before such true beauty.
117
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
118
<a id="t4p-33-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:33 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
119
It is amazing. Here in Lamayuru, in this very stronghold not only of the Red sects but
120
even Bon-po, among the row of images stands a great image of Maitreya. It was placed
121
here about two hundred years ago. Even here did this knowledge penetrate. Maitreya alone
122
binds firmly the Mahayana and Hinayana including Ceylon. In this reverence are united
123
Yellow and Red sects. There is magnificence in this reverence of the future.
124
125
The caravans, meeting, greet each other. They always inquire, “Whence do you come?” They
126
never inquire, “Who are you?” Movement has already effaced personality. Above the
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
127
caravans sound the calls, “Shabash” (good way ahead)
128
or “Kabarda” (danger, attention). And truly, on the
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
129
steep banks of the yellow, thunderous Indus, there is always danger of a cruel, swift
130
tide, a sweep of sharp stones which can brush the horse into the whirlpool of the
131
torrent.
132
133
Saspul is an open, merry place. Around it are many monasteries. At the very road is a
134
small monastery, and within it a gigantic image of the seated Maitreya. On the side also
135
stand giants, Manjushri and Avalokiteshvara. In the front temple is an ancient
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
136
stone stela with the same images, which dates from
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
137
the tenth century or earlier. The lama of the temple talks with knowledge about
138
Maitreya. This temple has been little noticed in descriptions.
139
140
Maitreya stands as the symbol of the future. But we also perceived the signs of the
141
past. Upon the rocks are images of deer, of mountain goats with twisted horns, of
142
horses.
143
144
Where did we recall similar images? Why, on the stones of North America; upon Siberian
145
rocks; the same technique, the same stylization, and the same reverence for animals. Few
146
are the human images. We saw only one—an archer and several rows of people, perhaps
147
representing a ritual. Through these images, America and Asia stretch hands to each
148
other. On the wall of a semi-grotto where we paused for rest, the hands of some unknown
149
travelers had also left the figures of animals.
150
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
151
<a id="t4p-37-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:37 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
152
Basgo is an ancient monastery upon the sharp cliffs. Such a whimsical and variegated
153
line, without any minuteness, is seldom seen.
154
155
The Ladaki villages are not ill-smelling. On the contrary, one often smells incense,
156
wild mint, sage, apples and apricots.
157
158
We passed Kalatse. There upon the bridge was nailed the hand of the “robber,” Sukamir,
159
who attempted to conquer Ladak for Kashmir. A cat had devoured this venal hand—and in
160
its place it was found necessary to borrow the hand of a dead lama, lest the symbol
161
suffer. Already missionaries are in Kalatse.
162
163
Encampments from Srinagar to Leh: Ganderbal, Kangan, Ghund, Sonamarg, Baltal (Zoji),
164
Matayan, Dras, Kharbu, Kargil, Maulbeck, Tibetan Kharbu, Lamayuru, Nurla, Saspul
165
(Basgo), Nyimu. The last may be omitted if the night-lodging is prepared in Leh.
166
167
Wheat does not fear an altitude of twelve thousand feet, and barley is adaptable as high
168
as fifteen thousand feet. Horses are fed with barley instead of oats. A certain
169
veterinarian attempted to prove that barley was very harmful for horses but all Tibet in
170
practice has proved the opposite.
171
172
In the time of war and revolution the trade of Turkestan and India was increased. In Leh
173
the former political inspector of Gilgit is stationed as special trade agent.
174
175
Bearded vultures, white-tailed eagles and European falcons of brownish-gold are perching
176
upon the sapphires and tourmalines of the mountains.
177
178
On New Year the Tibetans bring to Buddha freshly blossoming greens, because the Tibetan
179
New Year is at the beginning of February. And in Lhasa at that time they prepare for
180
work in the fields. What then is there better and fresher and more symbolic of striving
181
to offer to Buddha than the fresh seedlings, this first message of the awakened life?
182
183
Either one must accept what exists in its full reality or find recourse in personal
184
superstitions. Of course, reality is precious. But then, one must take the actual living
185
facts. These facts will bring their offering of tender verdure to Buddha; they also will
186
evoke dreams of the unity of the peoples. They will give rise to the structure of the
187
new unions. But these facts one can verify only in the desert beyond the accessible
188
boundaries, outside of the sphere of influence; where there are no slanderers, no liars;
189
where one thinks all afresh; where decisions do not depend upon any outlined
190
regulations.
191
192
We are looking upon the inexhaustibly rich rock formations. We note where and how were
193
conceived the examples of symbolic images. Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics
194
with their wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks. One perceives how the forms of imagery
195
blend with the mountain atmosphere. Just those forms, thought out in the West, here
196
begin to live and become convincing. One may expect the appearance of Kuan Yin; or Lhamo
197
prepares the element of destruction; or the image of Mahakala may issue from the mass of
198
the cliff. And how many enchanted stone knights await their liberation! How many
199
enchanted helmets and swords are hidden in the chasms! This is not the unlifelike
200
Durandale from Rockamadura. This is the real tragedy and achievement of life. And
201
Bruguma of Gessar Khan is kin to Brunhilde of Siegfried. Crafty Locke runs along the
202
fiery rocks. And under a tremendous banyan tree, in an orange mantle, sits a Sanyasin,
203
in all ways and manners the same as in the times of Gautama Buddha.
204
205
Over the mountains rings out the “Forging of the Sword” and the “Call of Valkyrie” and
206
the “Magic Fire Music” and the “Roar of Fafner.” I remember Stravinsky once was ready to
207
annihilate Wagner. No, Igor, this heroic realism, these harmonies of achievement are not
208
to be destroyed. And the music of Wagner is also true, and rings remarkably in the
209
mountains. Ragtime and fox-trots will not supplant Wagner. Upon the Tyrolian rocks and
210
in the Villa at Pisa, Wagner became filled with a true enthusiasm and his sweep is fit
211
for the heights of Asia. Humanity still lives by beauty.
212
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
213
<a id="t4p-38-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:38 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
214
An unusual fire in the village Nyimu! I was awakened by the exclamation of E.I.: “Fire!
215
Fire!” I awoke and saw the silhouette of E.I. against a background of undulating bluish
216
flame; gradually the fire died out. It appears that E.I. approached the bed and touched
217
the blanket. The bluish flame, warm, odorless, flashed up. E.I. tried to extinguish it
218
with her hands but the flame spread more and more strongly. Then she called me. The fire
219
ceased as it began, without leaving the slightest trace on anything. Unforgettable was
220
this leaping flame, unconsuming and vivid. The tent was entirely illumined. As always
221
during phenomena, only afterwards we could talk over all the unusual details of this
222
fire.
223
224
Dr. Francke relates the words of his Tibetan fellow traveler at the source of the Indus,
225
in view of certain heights: “Behind them lies Ba-yul, the country of tall beings. Only
226
highly developed people can find out something about the life in this Ba-yul. But if a
227
simple man approaches the snowy boundaries he sometimes hears only voices
228
incomprehensible to him.”
229
230
A Ladaki song:
231
f0b340 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-08 20:44:11
Impo
232
Through the gates of the east entered the Hindu Faith.
233
Say, did you pass by way of the sacred word?
234
The Persian kingdom erects the gates of the south.
235
Did you pass through them?
236
The celestial message of China opens to us the western gates.
237
How did you pass the way of the Chinese sign?
238
And the gates of the north belong to Gessar Khan.
239
How did you pass the way of the sword stroke?
240
Did you pass the gates leading to Lhasa, where lies the way of the seekers of truth?
241
The east—the gates of India. There, hallowing the sacred word and custom, we rested.
242
The Persian kingdom possesses the gates of the south.
243
There we revered the border of the noble ones.
244
The celestial message of China opened to us the western gates.
245
Affirming the dates it gave us happiness.
246
The gates to the warrior, Gessar, are on the north.
247
By the clash of swords we passed these nations.
248
And through the gates of Lhasa, seeking for truth,
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
249
We passed, testing in silence our spirit.
250
251
The geographical oddities of the song evidently result from the accumulations of
252
different races.
253
254
Another beautiful Ladaki song:
255
f0b340 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-08 20:44:11
Impo
256
One is visited by wisdom and one is only an onlooker.
257
Some can achieve wholly naught, therefore one must test himself here.
258
But to him who already comes with wisdom, there is special bliss.
259
Does the High One need the wisdom of nine signs?
260
And does the mediocre one need the same?
261
Are you coming as friend of high estate or do you only desire a purse?
262
Did you come without threats?
263
Do you wish the covenant of friendship?
264
There are three kinds of enemies.
265
There are three kinds of friends.
266
Would you enumerate them?
267
There are three enemies:
268
An enemy who induces sickness,
269
An enemy who hates the spirit,
270
An enemy who avenges in bloodshed.
271
We did not come as enemies,
272
We are friend to you.
273
We name three friends:
274
Our Liberator Buddha,
275
The union of a harmonious family,
276
The union of love and blood.
277
Here are the three friends.
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
278
Verily, it is so.
279
280
The geographical oddities of the song evidently result from the accumulations of
281
different races.
282
283
We recall the beautiful little book of Claude Bragdon, “Episodes of an Unwritten
284
History.” We could furnish him with several more episodes. It is always pleasant to meet
285
Bragdon. All that he does is so sincere and fine.
286
287
Pay attention to the blending of Kuan Yin, Aryabalo—Avalokiteshvara. Gessar insists upon
288
the structure of the temple, Aryabalo.
289
290
The name of Gessar has reached as far as the Volga (Astrakhan).
291
292
Gessar is being identified with Assur.
293
294
The temple of Gessar Khan was built upon the site of the manifestation of
295
Avalokiteshvara.
296
297
The people of Ordoss place before the house five colored banners, the colors of the
298
rainbow, awaiting the coming of the great being—“Tengiras Ochirtai.”
299
300
The abbot of the monastery Wu-t’ai shan in the book, “The Red Path to Shambhala,”
301
describes many details of the way into this forbidden place. At the end of it there is a
302
characteristic detail, to the effect that the traveler saw on the very edge of the
303
safeguarded place, a caravan of Mongols with salt, although they did not suspect the
304
nearness of the dwelling.
305
306
A Buriat lama gives the information that when he went to Shambhala he was led by an
307
underground passage. The passage sometimes became so narrow that one could hardly push
308
through the thoroughbred ram, which was being led into the forbidden place.
309
310
Mongolian lamas indicate several “safeguarded” places in the boundaries of Khangai and
311
Gobi. There came several hurried messengers from the Himalayas.
312
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
313
<a id="t4p-34-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:34 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
314
Near Kalatse many places are pointed out which are dedicated to the name of Gessar Khan:
315
1. Garuda—of Gessar Khan. 2. Saddle of Gessar. 3. Tambourine of Bruguma, wife of Gessar.
316
4. Spinning wheel of Bruguma. 5. Castle of Gessar Khan—a high rock—a white spot
317
indicates the sign of a door.
318
319
On Sumur upon the rock is an image of a crowned lion. This lion is upon Tibetan and
320
military banners.
321
322
Mongols speak about the coming of “Meru.”
323
324
In the spring in Ladak is a festival of Gessar, celebrated with singing and archery.
325
From the names of the songs one may weave a complete garland about Gessar.
326
327
Let us remember the names: Gessar the Conqueror; Gessar and the Treasury of the Giants;
328
The Wisdom of Bruguma; Father and Mother, the All-powerful; The Return of Gessar and
329
Bruguma; The Voices of Heaven; The Conjuration of the Arrow; The Four Victories of
330
Gessar; The Prayer of Gessar; Upon the Peak Shrar; Gessar the Ruler of Lightning; The
331
Victory Song of Gessar; Praise to Gessar.
332
333
These titles alone proclaim the path of folk-consciousness, of the national dignity and
334
the dream about the hero of freedom.
335
336
Both Ladakis and Mongols await fighters and builders of life. They endow them not only
337
with a leonine courage but with serpentine cunning and the tirelessness of a stag. How
338
wondrous it is to observe the growth of the consciousness and its forging of heroic
339
symbols!
340
341
The images upon the rocks can be ascribed to three periods: the Neolith, the ancient
342
faith of Bon-po and the superstition of a later period. In the technique of the images
343
themselves one can distinguish the firm, succulent stylization of antiquity and the
344
restrained, sharp line of later drawings.
345
346
The name of Orion is often connected with the narrative about Gessar Khan, On Altai, the
347
mountain Beluha is called Outch-Sure. Outch means Orion; Sure, the dwelling of Gods;
348
thus correlating to the Mongolian Sumer and Hindu Sumeru. Upon the mountain Outch-Sure
349
one ascends by a White Khatik. The heavenly bird upon the mountain Outch-Sure has
350
conquered the dragon. Tsagan Ubugun, white old man, is always near to the Great Bear.
351
352
They say in the caravan that the Mongolian soldiers—tseriks—carry special banners and
353
sing a hymn composed by them about the approach of the time of Shambhala.
354
355
From border to border, from mouth to mouth.
356
357
One does not care to give to the local images any ethnographical or geographical
358
character. Let them go as banners: “Sanctuaries and Citadels.” Let them, by their
359
general tone of heroism and attainment, themselves speak for this country.
360
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
361
<a id="t4p-39-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:39 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
362
Spitug is a powerful monastery, the first, according to the teachings of Tsong-kha-pa.
363
Here are not ruins, but a living and working community. The abbot of the monastery and
364
his coworkers are learned and strikingly keen men. Before one has yet completely spoken,
365
they are ready to continue your finished thought correctly. In Spitug lies the image of
366
Maitreya and the knowledge of the prophecies. In one of the divisions of Spitug in Leh
367
in a special compartment stands a great image of Dukar, Mother of the World, with
368
numberless eyes of omniscience, and with the arrow of justice. At her right, stands
369
Maitreya—the Coming One. At her left, the many-armed image of the Avalokiteshvara, this
370
conclave of the Brotherhood of the Great Unity. One should remember the correlation of
371
these three symbols. This correlation has never been remarked upon or explained.
372
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
373
<a id="t4p-39-N2"></a><!-- text4placeid:39 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
374
In both branches of Spitug, the murals are excellent, with strong tones and feeling of
375
balance. They have promised to procure for us the same artist who painted these stirring
376
walls.
377
378
To our camp came riding a missionary from Yarkand. On yaks, he had just crossed Khardong
379
Pass, losing all sense of days and dates. His watch had stopped. He repeated constantly:
380
“It is a staggeringly hard journey.” He told us that the worst spots were Khardong and
381
Sasser Pass, while Karakorum, though higher was easier. He praised highly the people of
382
Turkestan. He informed us that the Amban is already awaiting us and considers us his
383
guests.
384
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
385
<a id="t4p-566-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:566 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
386
The monastery Sheh, seven miles from Leh, is wonderfully laid out. In it is a
387
tremendous, two-storied image of Buddha, the finest mural of any seen by us thus far.
388
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
389
<a id="t4p-567-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:567 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
390
In Trikshe also are the great images of Buddha, Maitreya and Manjushri. The paintings
391
are somewhat simpler. We did not see friendly lamas there. There was only an old
392
Mongolian lama who, judging by his erratic laughter, was not quite normal.
393
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
394
<a id="t4p-565-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:565 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
395
One must also see the reverse side of Buddhism—let us go to Hemis. On approaching one
396
already feels the strange atmosphere of darkness and dejection. The stupas have strange
397
fearful images—ugly faces. Dark banners. Black ravens fly above and black dogs are
398
gnawing at bones. And the canyon tightly incloses itself. Of course, the temple and the
399
houses are all huddled together. And the objects of service are heaped together in dark
400
corners like pillaged loot. The lamas are half-literate. Our guide laughs. “Hemis, a big
401
name, but a little monastery.” Of course, small, not according to size, but to inner
402
meaning. Here is apparent prejudice and greed. The only fine thing about it was that
403
upon the neighboring sharp rocks, at morning, the stags appeared and, standing long upon
404
the cliffs, turned their heads to greet the sun.
405
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
406
<a id="t4p-565-N2"></a><!-- text4placeid:565 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
407
It is an old monastery founded by a great lama who left a book about Shambhala and these
408
manuscripts are lying down below, out of sight, probably feeding the mice.
409
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
410
<a id="t4p-565-N3"></a><!-- text4placeid:565 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
411
Regarding the legends of Jesus—first there was a complete denial. To our amazement
412
denial first comes from the circle of missionaries. Then slowly, little by little, creep
413
in fragmentary, reticent details, difficult to obtain. Finally it appears that the old
414
people in Ladak have heard and know about the legends.
415
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
416
<a id="t4p-565-N4"></a><!-- text4placeid:565 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
417
Such legends about Jesus and the Book of Shambhala lie in the “darkest” place. And the
418
figure of the lama—the compiler of the book of Shambhala—stands like an idol in some
419
sort of fantastic headgear. And how many other relics have perished in dusty corners?
420
For the Tantrik-lamas have no interest in them. It was necessary to see this other side
421
of Buddhism.
422
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
423
<a id="t4p-565-N5"></a><!-- text4placeid:565 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
424
And how simple it is to brush aside this grime and dust of fanaticism! How simple to
425
restore the stirring mural paintings! How easy to purify and to cleanse the finely
426
wrought statues! Nor is it difficult to bring the monastic organizations back to the
427
full meaning of the working order, according to the teachings of the greatest Lion
428
(Sinha)—Buddha.
429
430
“I am the King of Ladak”—thus the slender, slight man in Tibetan garb, approached us. He
431
is the former King of Ladak, who was conquered by Kashmiris. His is a fine, intellectual
432
face. Now his means are very limited. And so we speak at tea, and we tell him we love
433
his country and his people who are remarkable for their calmness and honesty. We speak
434
of the teaching and the guest in a fine, subtle way, remarks that the Yellow and Red
435
Sects are now almost alike in many observances. We speak of ancient things, of the
436
finesse of the work. The king invites us to see his palace, which rises high upon the
437
rocks overlooking Leh.
438
439
We climb the steep, uncertain staircases. We pass along the dark crossings. We pause,
440
rapt in joy, upon the terraces and balconies, from which, before us, spreads the vista
441
of all mountains and sand-mounds. We must bow in order to enter the low, tiny doors
442
which lead into the house temple. The temple is dedicated to Dukar, the resplendent
443
Mother of the World. In the center again stands her image. On her right hand—Buddha.
444
445
Although the king now lives in Stog, the summer palace, nevertheless, before these
446
images are fresh flowers. On the walls hang many finely colored banners. The general
447
feeling of the paintings here is finer than in Sikhim, and one feels the great influence
448
of Tashi-lhunpo.
449
450
Near the palace, in a separate temple, is placed the gigantic image of Maitreya. The
451
wall painting there is very majestic. Often, the murals of Italy or of Russian churches,
452
were either too detailed or too general in parts. But here one is startled by the
453
unusual combination of breadth of understanding of the general parts, with their
454
richness of detail. The figure of Maitreya is two stories high—up to the waist in the
455
lower floor, and on the higher floor, the Image itself. Perhaps this division of the
456
statue was done as an afterthought, but its idea is quite remarkable. It is as though
457
the common man should not perceive at once the entire grandeur of the symbol. One must
458
ascend the upper way in order to reach the Image—as though of a higher world. The lower
459
floor is bathed in twilight while above, through the narrow windows without glass, the
460
rays of the bright, all-penetrating sun pour in. And near you are great number of stupas
461
and the glistening sand and fantastic networks of the gates.
462
463
The Mongolian lama has arrived and with him a new wave of news; they await our arrival
464
in Lhasa. In monasteries, he says, all are discussing the prophecies. He is an excellent
465
lama and has already traveled from Urga to Ceylon. How far this organization of the
466
lamas is penetrating everywhere!
467
468
We are talking with the lama about what happened to us near Darjeeling. It must be
469
recorded. We were going in an automobile near the monastery Ghum. Approaching us there
470
appeared a porte-chaise, carried by four servants in white garments, while the lama
471
himself sat in a remarkably beautiful garment with a crown upon his head. He had a
472
bright, welcoming face, with a small black beard. The automobile had to slow down, and
473
the lama smiled and joyously nodded his head. We thought that this was the important
474
abbot of a large monastery. But afterwards we discovered that lamas are not carried in
475
porte-chaises, nor do they wear crowns when traveling. Nor do lamas in Sikhim appear in
476
such beautiful garments. No one ever heard of such a lama—and a face like his we found
477
nowhere. The chauffeur slowed up the automobile while driving before the lama, which
478
enabled us sharply to observe his face.
479
480
The last flight of the Tashi Lama had a heroic character. Three hundred armed lamas
481
accompanied the visionary refugee. Each of them, and the Tashi Lama himself, led an
482
extra horse by the bridle, because the flight was hurried—and pursuit threatened them
483
from all sides. A message was brought to them, just in time, that five hundred Lhasan
484
horsemen were hastening to cut off escape on the Nagchu Pass. The Tashi Lama succeeded
485
in turning to the side and escaping through a gorge. A snowstorm rose and the pursuit
486
was cut off.
487
488
So, full-armed, amidst an incessant galloping, an historic flight occurred—the
489
fulfillment of the ancient prophecies, so important for the future, took place.
490
According to an eyewitness, the monk-artist Gelong Champa Tashi, the Tashi Lama took
491
with him from Tashi-lhunpo only the pictures of Shambhala. Out of them, on the way, he
492
gave two to well-known Khutukhtas; and here in Ladak was Rinpoche, from the Chumbi, who
493
told us that now the shortest way is only through Shambhala! In many monasteries the
494
images of Maitreya are being raised and restored!
495
496
From hand to hand among the local inhabitants the prophecies and new commands are
497
traveling. With excitement they are comparing the dates which have already been
498
fulfilled. And they prepare and await, await, await. . . .
499
500
Someone comes in the evening and whispers about a new manuscript of Shambhala. We ask
501
him to bring it.
502
503
One must be in these places to understand what occurs! One must look into the eyes of
504
these coming ones, in order to realize how vitally important for them is the meaning of
505
Shambhala. And the dates of events are not a curious oddity for them but are connected
506
with the structures of the future. Though these structures are sometimes dust-ridden and
507
perverted, their substance is vital and stirs the thought. Following the development of
508
thought you realize the dreams and hopes. And out of these fragments has been pieced
509
together the real departure of the Tashi Lama—an important one. The new web of the
510
world!
511
512
Three years before his departure, the Tashi Lama ordered that frescoes be painted on the
513
walls of his inner chambers. In these frescoes in clear symbols are represented all the
514
wanderings of the Tashi Lama through various countries.
515
516
Throughout Ladak are scattered stones with images of a cross, apparently Druid or
517
Nestorian. The most ancient and now forgotten country preserves the Druid signs and all
518
possible later symbols.
519
520
Not far from the site of Buddha stand most ancient tombs called ancient Dard graves.
521
Their age is of course considerably more than a thousand years.
522
523
Three items of information reached us in one day about the legends of Jesus. A Hindu
524
said to us: “I have heard from one Ladaki official that according to the words of the
525
former Abbot of Hemis, there was a tree and a small pool in Leh beside which Jesus
526
taught.” (This is some new version about a tree and a pool, unheard before.)
527
528
The missionary says: “A nonsensical invention composed by a Pole who sat in Hemis
529
several months.” (One may ask why invented, when it coincides with other versions and
530
proofs.)
531
532
Another says: “Is it not a Nestorian legend? Among them were many legends and true ones.
533
But missionaries know nothing about it.”
534
535
So the subject is being discussed. Thus slowly the news begins to leak out. The chief
536
thing is the unusual depth of the legend and the wonderful meaning it has to the lamas
537
throughout the entire East.
538
539
A good and sensitive Hindu spoke meaningly about the manuscript of the life of Issa.
540
“Why does one always place Issa in Egypt during the time of his absence from Palestine?
541
His young years of course were passed in study. The traces of his learning have
542
naturally impressed themselves upon his later sermons. To what sources do these sermons
543
lead? What is there in them of Egyptian? And why does one not see traces of Buddhism—of
544
India? It is difficult to understand why the wandering of Issa by caravan path into
545
India and into the region now occupied by Tibet, should be so vehemently denied.”
546
547
The teachings of India were famed far and wide; let us even recall the description of
548
the life of Appolonius of Tyana and his visits to Hindu sages.
549
550
Another speaker reminds us that in Syria a slab was found with an inscribed governmental
551
edict about the persecution of the followers of Jesus as enemies of the government. This
552
archaeological find must be curious for those who deny the historicity of Jesus the
553
Teacher. And how does one explain the tiny coins used by the early Christians in the
554
catacombs? And the first catacombs themselves still exist.
555
556
There are always those who love scornfully to deny when something difficult enters their
557
consciousness; but then, knowledge is transformed into seminaristic scholasticism and
558
slander is cultivated as a fine art. In what possible way could a recent forgery
559
penetrate into the consciousness of the whole East? And where is the scientist who could
560
write a long treatise in Pali and Tibetan? We do not know such a one.
561
562
Each day the lama rejoices and astonishes us. He has seen so much and knows so much and
563
is able so keenly to discriminate among the people. Just now he has brought us the
564
information that a name very close to us is mentioned in the most ancient prophecies.
565
There is not the slightest bigotry in the lama and for the defense of the foundations he
566
is even ready to take arms.
567
568
He will whisper: “Do not speak to this man—he will babble everything.” . . . “And now I
569
had better leave you.” And there is nothing personal felt behind his motives. And how
570
ready he is to move farther!
571
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
572
<a id="t4p-40-N1"></a><!-- text4placeid:40 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
573
Leh is a remarkable site. Here the legends connected the paths of Buddha and Christ.
574
Buddha went through Leh northwards. Issa communed here with the people on his way from
575
Tibet. Secretly and cautiously the legends are guarded. It is difficult to sound them
576
because lamas, above all people, know how to keep silent. Only by means of a common
577
language—and not merely that of tongue but also of inner understanding—can one approach
578
their significant mysteries. One becomes convinced that every educated Gelong knows
579
much. Even by his eyes one cannot guess when he agrees or inwardly laughs at you,
580
knowing more than yourself. How many stories these silent ones can tell of the passing
581
“savants” who have found themselves in the most ridiculous positions! But now has come
582
the time of the illumination of Asia.
583
584
Wonderful voices have the Ladakis. Their robes strangely recall the Russian Byzantine
585
ornaments. Often instead of the fur slung behind the shoulders, there is a short mantle
586
of cloth with embroidered designs, which gives the impression of the
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
587
ancient corsno (Byzantine mantle-cloak). Their high
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
588
embroidered hats are like those of Boyars. In their girdles are metal depositories for a
589
pen and a pair of reed pipes, and with these latter they fill the evening with ringing
590
melodies. During the hours of their work in the fields the Ladakis wear on their heads
591
wreaths of barley and flowers. And the songs—such ringing joyous sound—are like the
592
nature of Ladak itself!
593
594
Once again came the King of Ladak. As a result we are to live in his palace. From this
595
site of the sermons of Issa, from its high terraces, one must paint a series of all that
596
can be seen from here. In these high places, purified by winds, occurred the signs of
597
great communions. Of course the places have changed. Destructions and constructions
598
succeeded one another. The conquerors have brought new accumulations, but the basic
599
silhouette remains unchanged. The same heavenly frames as formerly are crowning the
600
earth—the same glowing stars and the tides of sand like a sea congealed. And the
601
deafening winds, sweeping up from the earth. . . .
602
603
And here is the site of Buddha. It is eroded by time. A legend speaks of a “great and
604
very ancient structure.” But now the abutments of cliffs and rugged stones speak only of
605
destruction. The old hewn stones have gone to the structure of later stupas, which in
606
their turn have already crumbled. One fact is evident—you stand upon a place of ancient
607
habitation. Not far off is an old village and a sharp-peaked heap of ruins—remains of an
608
ancient fortress merged together like a monolith.
609
610
The days are filled with our settling in the Ladaki palace. Crowds of people are coming:
611
envoys from Lhasa, Tibetan merchants, Ak-sakal the Elder, Tasildar from Kashmir (the
612
district chief) and, again, the King of Ladak.
613
614
The old King Lama came himself. In spite of his poverty he brought with him about ten
615
accompanying lamas and relatives. From the conversation it became apparent that the
616
family of the king knows of the manuscripts about Issa. They also informed us that many
617
Mohammedans would like to possess this document. Then followed conversation about
618
prophecies connected with Shambhala, about the dates and about that which fills reality
619
with beauty. The old King Lama departs and the crowd in white kaftans bow before him in
620
reverence, simply and beautifully.
621
622
As simply yesterday in the street did a woman, walking out of the field of stubble,
623
approach and stretch out a hand of greeting. They are now harvesting the golden barley.
624
Rows of people with flower wreaths on their heads, carry on their backs sheaves of
625
golden wheat and sing stirringly and joyously, in golden full-voiced garlands of song.
626
8e8e06 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-22 19:05:48
Impo
627
<a id="t4p-40-N2"></a><!-- text4placeid:40 -->
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
628
And so we live in a Ladaki palace. The ruins of Italian castles pale in comparison with
629
this picturesque pile, this mass which rises in the chalice of the many-colored
630
mountains. Where have we seen such lofty roof-terraces? Where have we previously walked
631
upon such ruined alleys? Of course in the painting of Mehesky—the Moon
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
632
people. Of course, these are the very same towers. Only here are
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
633
dwelling not the Mehesky, but descendants of Gessar Khan. All Kings of Ladak trace their
634
descent from the heroic Gessar Khan.
635
636
How wonderful that George knows all necessary Tibetan dialects. Only without a
637
translator will people here speak about spiritual things. Now one must absorb, with full
638
knowledge, with clear, true approach. Curiosity is not fitting. Only insistent love of
639
knowledge!
640
641
The eighth of September. Letters from America. Many messages will miss us here. The
642
letters traveled for six weeks—but successfully reached the steamer.
643
644
Upon the walls of the room chosen as the dining-room are painted vases with many-colored
645
plants. On the bedroom walls are all the symbols of Chintamani—the stone of the treasure
646
of the world. And the carved pillars, black from age, support the dusky ceiling with its
647
big Berendey-like balusters. Little doors are above a high threshold and the narrow
648
windows are without glass. And before nightfall the wind blows freely through the
649
passageways. The floor is covered with bright felting from Yarkand. And upon the lower
650
terrace a black dog barks—Tumbal, and the white dog, Amdong, are our new fellow
651
travelers. During the night the wind whistles and the old walls shake.
652
653
I am painting in the upper chamber which has its exit upon all the roofs. Its doors have
654
broad carved casements and the pillars have intricately frescoed capitals. Stairs, steps
655
and dark ceilings are patterned by age. Where have I seen this chamber before? Where
656
have these bright colors sparkled? Of course in the “Snowmaiden” in the Chicago setting.
657
My dear ones enter and say: “Well, here is verily the true Berendey in his own chamber.”
658
8cdfe7 Otterwiki Robot 2026-03-21 14:03:30
Impo
659
Berendeyevka ended sooner than we thought—the fall does not tarry. One
60042f Otterwiki Robot 2026-01-13 06:36:21
Import diaries from HTML
660
must pass Karakorum before the autumn northeast wind approaches. The way to Shayok is
661
passable only a week longer. Moreover, the people already have taken the bridges apart
662
for fuel, and the water has risen to the height of a man. There remains the path through
663
the Khardong and Sasser passes. Many varied imperative considerations cause us to hasten
664
the date of departure. With a large caravan one becomes a subject.
665
666
Hence with horses, with mules and yaks, with rams and with dogs, we go on the old
667
trail—but with the signs of new possibilities, we will walk upon the mountains. And then
668
down to the deserts. Is it possible to descend from the mountains? But the element of
669
the sand is also beckoning and the desert nights and sunrises are also glowing. And in
670
this glimmer of beauty lies the whole conception and hope.
671
672
Karakorum—the black throne. Beyond lies China—again the old patrimony of Buddha.
673
674
On a red steed, unbridled, with flaming banner, rushes the Great Rider, in armor and
675
blowing upon the sacred conch-shell. From him are darting tongues of flame and before
676
him fly messengers—birds. Behind him lie the mountains—Beluha. Snows and the White Tara
677
send blessings. Above him exultingly is held the gathering of the Great Lamas. Beneath
678
him are the guardians and herds of domestic animals as the symbols of the site. This
679
ancient Tibetan picture was brought to us on the last day of our life in Ladak.
680
681
In the courtyard they complete the loading of the yaks. We are now setting out! And the
682
day is sparkling.