Blame
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1 | # Nicholas Roerich. Altai-Himalaya |
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3 | ## VII. Khotan (1925-1926) |
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11 | Our faithful Ladakis had intended to go with us to the most distant parts. In Khotan |
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| 12 | they soon became somewhat depressed. They wandered through the bazaars; they complained |
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| 13 | that the people pulled their braids; they grieved because of the Chinese officials. They |
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| 14 | assured us that the Chinese Taotai would order them beaten. They said that the Taotai |
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| 15 | himself had killed a man. At last the whole sack-garbed crowd of Ladakis came; they |
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| 16 | smiled, they shifted about, they crowded close to one another, they repeated what |
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| 17 | goodyum-kusho |
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| 18 | (mistress) and |
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| 19 | yab-kusho |
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| 20 | (great gentleman), we were; and finally with tears they begged us to let them go home. |
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| 21 | They hinted that if we would go further on our way at once they would remain with us, |
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| 22 | but that in Khotan it was impossible to live. They left us very touchingly, hurrying |
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| 23 | through the snowy passes. Although it was only the beginning of November they were held |
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| 24 | back in Sanju where the crossing had become impassable. We then appreciated the advice |
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| 25 | we had had, to start as early as possible, because just after our passage, there started |
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| 26 | a continuous blizzard and the severest frosts. |
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| 27 | ||||||||
| 28 | We did not even consider their statement that it was impossible to live in Khotan; but |
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| 29 | soon we were convinced that our simple friends, who had valiantly gone through all the |
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| 30 | skeletons of Karakorum, had become saddened in Khotan, not without cause. |
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33 | The strangest symptoms began. Not only did they not want to give us a suitable house, |
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| 34 | but they assured us that we would have to live at the bazaar where it would be more |
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| 35 | convenient for the Taotai to |
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| 36 | watch |
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| 37 | us. When we ourselves made an effort to find a suitable house in the outskirts, there |
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| 38 | was a mass of obstacles which we had to overcome fearlessly ourselves. Our well-wisher, |
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| 39 | Kudai Berdi Bai, and the Afghanistan Aksakal helped us greatly to procure the house, but |
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| 40 | the Amban permitted us to make an agreement only |
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| 41 | for one month. |
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| 42 | He signified through this that we were undesirable tenants, yet neither would he permit |
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| 43 | us to leave. The permission to sketch was |
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| 44 | not |
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| 45 | given. A repulsive Bek was stationed to watch us. Finally there came a new Amban and the |
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| 46 | affair became still more complicated. |
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| 47 | ||||||||
| 48 | The Taotai’s child became ill. They asked E.I. to come and help. The cure was successful |
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| 49 | and all three officials came seemingly to thank us. But their conduct was outrageous. |
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| 50 | They laughed, gesticulated, spat and said that our passport was altogether |
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| 51 | unauthentic. |
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| 52 | They proposed to insult Mr. Cheng-lo (the Chinese Ambassador in Paris) for giving out |
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| 53 | such a passport. Everything, verily, assumed ugly proportions. But these were |
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| 54 | flowers—the berries appeared the next day. |
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| 55 | ||||||||
| 56 | The Amban came and said that a telegram had been received from Urumchi, from the |
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| 57 | governor of the province, with the demand to expel our Expedition, and precisely through |
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| 58 | Sanju. This meant a return through a path closed by snow in winter. |
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| 59 | ||||||||
| 60 | Of course we were already accustomed to the hypocrisy of the officials of Khotan, and we |
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| 61 | did not doubt that there was no telegram and that the whole story was a fraud. |
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| 62 | “However,” added the tempestuous Amban, “if you will personally ask Mr. Taotai maybe he |
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| 63 | will show some clemency.” One should note that the officials did not permit any of our |
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| 64 | telegrams to pass, and we had to search for an opportunity to send telegrams to New |
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| 65 | York, Peking and Paris, by roundabout ways through the consulate in Kashgar. Besides |
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| 66 | this, the Amban pointed out that the officials had the complete right to take away all |
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| 67 | my artist’s equipment. |
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| 68 | ||||||||
| 69 | The next day the Taotai changed his anger into clemency. And |
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| 70 | on account |
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| 71 | of the cure of his son by E.I., he notified us that he would not expel us by way of |
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| 72 | Sanju. But his clemency, because of the cure of his son, quickly evaporated and the |
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| 73 | officials threatened to search our house. Finally on December 29th the search took |
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| 74 | place. Our arms, three guns and three revolvers, were sealed and taken away. They said |
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| 75 | that in Kashgar we might receive them back. The permits from the British officials to |
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| 76 | carry arms were not even taken into consideration. When the enormous case was brought |
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| 77 | into the room for the packing of the arms, even the Chinese stepped back, murmuring “a |
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| 78 | coffin.” E.I. added “This is the coffin of such type of officials.” It would seem that |
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| 79 | the inventions of oppression were already exhausted, but ignorance prompted one more |
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| 80 | “game.” They notified us that our American papers did not interest officials and |
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| 81 | demanded pre-war passports. With this, the “wise” officials of Republican China demanded |
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| 82 | nothing less than the old imperial passports. Quite accidentally we had with us an old |
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| 83 | passport and the Certificate of the Swedish Order of the Northern Star. The “buffalos” |
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| 84 | copied this and the other one, and pretended to send it somewhere. |
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| 85 | ||||||||
| 86 | The demand for a pre-war passport after nine years of Chinese revolution showed us that |
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| 87 | the officials of Khotan are not only ill-qualified, but that they are limitlessly |
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| 88 | ignorant; and to remain here would be even dangerous. We plan to go immediately to |
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| 89 | Kashgar and Urumchi in order to find a more sensible administration. My dear friends, if |
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| 90 | you want to try out your cold-bloodedness and patience, go to the city of Khotan. Here |
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| 91 | Taotai Ma, and Amban Chang Fu, will teach you with all their medieval resourcefulness. |
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| 92 | Before our departure, we heard a rumor in the bazaar that serious trouble was brewing |
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| 93 | for the Taotai. It is rumored that he received the position of the Taotai and the star |
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| 94 | from the governor of the province, for the murder which he himself executed of the |
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| 95 | military governor of Kashgar last year; however, it is revealed that the murder was |
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| 96 | accomplished not by him alone but also by the soldiers. Now one may believe that all |
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| 97 | murderers must become Taotais. |
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| 98 | ||||||||
| 99 | The details of the murder are medieval. The captured man was crucified and after two |
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| 100 | days of crucifixion the present commander of Khotan shot at him at such close range that |
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| 101 | the blood spurted upon the victor. At the same time his soldiers were also shooting with |
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| 102 | him. |
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| 103 | ||||||||
| 104 | I am writing with sorrow for the Chinese. I can imagine how the best Chinese will blush |
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| 105 | for such contemporaries! Let us recall the tales of Sven Hedin, how Chinese officials |
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| 106 | searched his trunks for Russian soldiers; how Filchner gave his signed waiver to the |
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| 107 | Amban that he had no claims against them for robbery; how badly Prjevalsky fared in |
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| 108 | Khotan; how Kosloff was forced to enter the court of the Amban with twenty Cossacks to |
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| 109 | quell the lawlessness. It is sad to realize and to see that the new order of the state |
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| 110 | has not yet changed its gloomy medievalism. Let the Amban get along without the aid of a |
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| 111 | handkerchief for his nose—that is not important. But let the Amban at least know |
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| 112 | something. |
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| 113 | ||||||||
| 114 | During the search of our things, the Amban recalled several times that the Russians at |
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| 115 | the frontier of Manchuria |
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| 116 | broke his teapot; |
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| 117 | all his petty rancor revealed itself in this information. And another very heinous crime |
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| 118 | did the Russians do; think only, they vaccinated the wife of the Taotai from Aksu!—This |
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| 119 | felony is related with rancor. During the search of our things, E.I. indignantly said to |
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| 120 | the Amban, who ordered that the yakhtan containing her own things be opened: “Look, |
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| 121 | Amban, there is my corset.” And so the wife of the Taotai from Aksu was avenged! Our |
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| 122 | Chinaman is indignant and shocked. While he, a Chinese officer and diplomat, with a |
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| 123 | literary reputation, stood by, they usurped and carried away our arms! They deprived the |
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| 124 | Expedition of its means of defense. He says: “This is the work of robbers.” Local |
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| 125 | Moslems come, advise and warn and try to show sympathy. One can imagine what these |
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| 126 | quiet, cowed people, who have lost their identities, have to bear. One can imagine how |
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| 127 | much the Chinese intellectuals, students and youths have to stand, they who are so |
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| 128 | sensitive to the grime of license. |
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| 129 | ||||||||
| 130 | It is necessary to find ways to depart. We must go, in spite of the frost. The camels |
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| 131 | are ready. The old Chinese whispers: “Tell the escorting soldiers, if they have guns, to |
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| 132 | go in front and not in the rear—Chinese shoot from behind.” The banner of the Expedition |
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| 133 | is ready. It will be carried in front. Tzung sewed it; red with yellow and the |
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| 134 | inscription in black: “Lo, an American Art Officer.” |
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| 135 | ||||||||
| 136 | The Amban does not know anything about art. The Bek—of Mongolian descent—instructs him |
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| 137 | politely by means of the following ancient legend: “In olden times in Kucha lived a |
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| 138 | celebrated painter. Once, as a deposit against a loan, he brought his painting |
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| 139 | representing a head of cabbage and a butterfly and asked three thousand |
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| 140 | sar |
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| 141 | (equivalent to two thousand seven hundred dollars). A boy, who was taking the place of |
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| 142 | the owner, gave him the requested loan. The owner returned. He was indignant that for a |
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| 143 | cabbage and. a butterfly, one should give so much money. He chased away the boy and |
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| 144 | considered the money lost. Winter came and on the appointed day the artist brought the |
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| 145 | money and asked to have the painting back. They took out the painting and the owner, to |
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| 146 | his terror, saw that the butterfly had disappeared from the picture. The artist demanded |
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| 147 | his complete picture as described. The owner was upset. The painter said, ‘So you have |
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| 148 | unjustly thrown out the boy. But now only he can help you.’ The owner called the boy. |
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| 149 | The boy for three days kept the picture near the fire and the butterfly appeared again. |
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| 150 | Then the boy said: ‘You have not appreciated the artist, but he is so perfect that his |
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| 151 | colors have all the qualities of nature. The butterflies appear in the warm summer-time. |
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| 152 | For the winter they disappear. The same happens also in the painting. Only the warmth of |
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| 153 | the fire recalled the butterfly to life in winter as well. So perfect is this painter.’ |
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| 154 | And the owner was ashamed and adopted the boy and made him rich for his wisdom.” So does |
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| 155 | the Bek teach the Amban, but even the Buddha said in the Sutras: “The greatest crime is |
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| 156 | ignorance.” |
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| 157 | ||||||||
| 158 | Among the Moslems, news has spread about the destruction of Damascus. The Moslems are |
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| 159 | indignant. Precisely by harming the sanctuaries and by pillage will this breach be most |
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| 160 | easily defined forever. In Paris they cannot even imagine how quickly through the depths |
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| 161 | of Asia fly bird-messengers. However, the flow of Moslem thought deserves great |
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| 162 | attention. One Moslem asked us why Muntazar, Messiah, Maitreya, all start with the same |
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| 163 | letter M. Is this not the very same |
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| 164 | manifestation? |
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| 165 | They also asked about Buddhism. They listened very attentively to the statement of |
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| 166 | Buddha being also a man, but being great through his supreme knowledge; of Buddha |
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| 167 | reverencing womankind; of Buddha having himself shown the manifestation of Maitreya. One |
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| 168 | day Kalmucks came from Karashahr. They came to make obeisance before Buddhist objects |
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| 169 | which we possess. Kalmucks know that here Buddha passed going northward. It is |
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| 170 | interesting to notice that Sir Charles Bell in his last book about Tibet points out that |
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| 171 | Buddha might have been of Mongolian descent. Nepal is populated by Mongoloids and the |
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| 172 | tribe of Sakya might have been sprung from them. Then, especially interesting is the |
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| 173 | direction of Buddha northward. All signs, all that remains, must be examined anew. The |
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| 174 | gigantic image of Maitreya, on the rock near Maulbeck, is often mentioned and described. |
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| 175 | It does not occur to one that the whole huge rock ought to be investigated from all |
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| 176 | sides. But when we were already in Khotan quite accidentally we heard about a Chinese |
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| 177 | inscription on the reverse side of the rock. It was an immeasurable pity to have lost |
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| 178 | this possibility; because a Chinese was with us. And then, what could this unexpected |
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| 179 | language have meant? One can expect Sanskrit, Pali, Tibetan and even Mongolian! But why |
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| 180 | did a Chinese hand write upon the rock of Maitreya? Monuments should always be |
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| 181 | approached with an open mind. |
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| 182 | ||||||||
| 183 | The antiques in Khotan are really exhausted. During the two months, outside of two or |
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| 184 | three fragments, and a dozen imitations, nothing was brought to us. And the occupation |
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| 185 | of seeking for treasure has ceased. And the tales breathe of old communications already |
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| 186 | described by Sir Aurel Stein. Yotkan—meaning the site of old Khotan—is really populated |
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| 187 | by peaceful Sarts and covered by Moslem cemeteries. Just as Italian antiquarians often |
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| 188 | refer to the name of Bode, here also now they are continually speaking about Sir John |
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| 189 | Marshall or about Sir Aurel Stein. There have not remained any ancient objects in daily |
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| 190 | use. Life is congealed as happens before a wave of new constructions. |
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| 191 | ||||||||
| 192 | Why, in point of fact, is Khotan considered a commercial center of Chinese Turkestan? We |
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| 193 | do not see the nerve of this commerce. We live on a big road branching to Aksu, Kucha |
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| 194 | and Tun-huang, to the Province Kansu and into the depths of China. But seldom do the |
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| 195 | bells of camels sound. Seldom does one hear the call of the donkeys. By such steps the |
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| 196 | rotations of industry are not being created. The rug industry has deteriorated |
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| 197 | considerably, it is now conventional and without life. Properly speaking the Khotan |
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| 198 | designs have completely degenerated. The jade has disappeared. And another |
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| 199 | characteristic pointed out by ancient authors has disappeared: singing has ceased, and |
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| 200 | has been replaced by fierce screams. In contrast with such singing, that of the Ladakis |
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| 201 | is full of rhythm and freshness. When a people has ceased to sing, it means that they |
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| 202 | are greatly depressed. |
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| 203 | ||||||||
| 204 | It is strange to think that this is the very same Khotan to which Fa-hsien in the fourth |
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| 205 | century of our era dedicated the exalted description: “This country thrives happily. The |
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| 206 | people are rich. They are all Buddhists and find joy in music. There are more than ten |
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| 207 | thousand members of communes and they almost all belong to Mahayana. They all live and |
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| 208 | derive their support from the commune. The villages are spread on big expanses and |
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| 209 | before the door of each house a small pagoda (Suburghan) is raised. They all are very |
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| 210 | hospitable and provide the guests with everything that is necessary. The ruler of the |
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| 211 | country placed us in Gomati, which belongs to Mahayana. At the beating of gongs all |
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| 212 | members of the commune gather for a meal. All sit in harmonious order and keep silence, |
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| 213 | and do not clatter with the dishes. . . . Some of us went on to Kashgar.” . . To what |
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| 214 | extent can reality be changed! The present evidence does not relate contemporary Khotan |
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| 215 | with its past, just as the Appian Way or the Road to Ostia do not lead to the present |
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| 216 | Roman Rome. |
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| 217 | ||||||||
| 218 | It is a pity that Fa-hsien did not travel further than Kashgar in what is now Russian |
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| 219 | Turkestan, because everywhere there and even in Persia are traces of Buddhism, not at |
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| 220 | all discovered yet. And Bokhara is nothing else than |
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| 221 | Vihara, |
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| 222 | the distorted name of a Buddhist monastery. George successfully discovered this |
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| 223 | philological transformation in Paris and Pelliot absolutely agreed with him. Pamir, |
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| 224 | Afghanistan, Persia—everywhere are traces of those flowerings of culture, when as |
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| 225 | chronicles say: “The art was incomparable, and a work of art and a book were the best |
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| 226 | gifts.” |
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| 227 | ||||||||
| 228 | Tsung had a dream. We three, E.I., George and I, with sabers, slashed Yang-tu-t’u. Tsung |
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| 229 | comes running to tell it and laughs: “A very good dream. Now all the victory will be |
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| 230 | yours, and Tu-t’u will fare badly.” Tzi Han Chen interprets this dream and also smiles |
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| 231 | broadly with pleasure that, if only in a dream, Tu-t’u fared badly. Tsung emphasizes the |
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| 232 | importance of the dream: “If Tu-t’u treats the great guests badly things will fare badly |
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| 233 | with him and he will not live.” So in far-away Khotan is rendered a verdict against |
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| 234 | Tu-t’u in Urumchi: “More than a year he will not live.” We speak to the Sart about this |
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| 235 | decision. He laughs. “You have already replaced Kerim-Bek, evidently the truth will |
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| 236 | assert itself with Tu-t’u.” Although Tu-t’u makes fun of the Peking government he |
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| 237 | himself is sitting in a furnace of hatred. Who will sit in his place? The Khotan robber, |
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| 238 | Ma, or Aksu or the one from Kuldja with his Manchurians? Any enterprising troops can |
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| 239 | easily take Sinkiang. |
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| 240 | ||||||||
| 241 | The pilgrims are passing on their way bringing new messages. In Urga a place for the |
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| 242 | Temple of Shambhala will be set. When the image of Rigden-japo will reach Urga, then |
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| 243 | will flash the first light of the New Era—truth. Then will the true renaissance of |
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| 244 | Mongolia begin. In Kucha, in the bazaars, recently two arriving lamas distributed images |
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| 245 | and a prayer of Shambhala. Here, also, the nuclei of revivified Buddhism have found |
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| 246 | shelter. The celebrated Suburghan near Khotan must be the place of one of the |
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| 247 | manifestations of the New Era. Khotan is the path of Buddha. Burkhan Bulat is near |
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| 248 | Khotan. The magnets of the ways are planted “as truly as under the stone of Ghum lies |
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| 249 | the prophecy about the New Era.” |
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| 250 | ||||||||
| 251 | The Maitreya Series comprises seven parts: 1. “Shambhala Approaches.” 2. “The Steed of |
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| 252 | Happiness.” 3. “The Strongholds of the Walls,” 4. “The Banner of the Future.” 5. “The |
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253 | Power of the Caves.” 6. “The Whispers of the Desert.” 7. “Maitreya the Conqueror.” |
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| 254 | ||||||||
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255 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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256 | |||||||
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257 | **December 1, 1925** |
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258 | |||||||
| 259 | One cannot imagine a more striking contrast than the tones of the Himalayas and Ladak in |
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| 260 | comparison with the desert. Sometimes it seems that one’s eyesight is gone or the eyes |
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| 261 | are filled with dust. And where are the crystals of purple, blue and green? Where is the |
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| 262 | abundance of fiery yellow and vivid red colorings? It is like a gray and dusty |
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| 263 | storeroom! The all-penetrating corrosions of time cut the skin like glass and eat the |
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| 264 | tissues. The eye is so accustomed to tonelessness, that, not glimpsing any colors, it |
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| 265 | slides as into a void. Also, unnoticeably, a sand storm starts up and our black Tumbal |
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| 266 | becomes woolly gray. Sometimes the stars are beautiful. Occasionally we are reminded of |
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| 267 | the charm of the mountains by the faint blue range of Kunlun. The donkeys are bemoaning |
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| 268 | their lot. And the home-made mowing machines also groan. The gigantic goiters of the |
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| 269 | people are repulsive. Some say they are “from the water.” Others, “this is already such |
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| 270 | a race.” The size of the goiters seriously affects the nerves and psychology of the |
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| 271 | consciousness. The frost begins. The water in the creeks is covered with ice. |
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| 272 | ||||||||
| 273 | The lama says that one very learned Buddhist in Ladak wanted to arrange a discussion |
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| 274 | with George on the subject of Buddhism. At that time the lama was timorous about |
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| 275 | arranging the discussion. He says: “I was uncertain whether your son could speak about |
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| 276 | the foundations of the teaching. Nowadays there are so many foreigners who call |
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| 277 | themselves Buddhists, but they do not know anything and judge according to untruthful |
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| 278 | books and commentaries. Nowadays there are many such pseudo-Buddhists. But now I am |
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| 279 | sorry that I did not arrange this debate in Ladak because your son knows everything. He |
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| 280 | knows more than many learned lamas. Here I have put various questions unnoticeably and |
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| 281 | gradually to you; and you have explained to me everything. It is a pity that in Ladak we |
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| 282 | did not have an opportunity to speak. Once I was traveling here with the great |
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| 283 | scientist, P. I asked him various questions but he did not answer them. He only became |
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| 284 | angry, because he did not know how to answer.” |
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| 285 | ||||||||
| 286 | The lama would like very much to see the Khazars, a Mongolian tribe which remained after |
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| 287 | the invasion in Afghanistan. |
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| 288 | ||||||||
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289 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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290 | |||||||
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291 | **January 1, 1926** |
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292 | |||||||
| 293 | The lamas often repeat the words of Buddha: “An oil lamp starts to smoke before |
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| 294 | extinguishing.” |
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| 295 | ||||||||
| 296 | Instead of being able quietly to depart from the rule of the Taotai there arise new |
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| 297 | insults and senseless difficulties. Our things are already packed. The camels are ready. |
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| 298 | We feel joy at leaving dangerous Khotan. But January 1st, early in the morning, a |
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| 299 | messenger comes from the Taotai, and in embarrassment tells us: “Mr. Taotai specifies |
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| 300 | that you go through Tun-huang not through Kashgar.” We say: “Our arms were taken away. |
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| 301 | To go through the desert without arms is impossible. Not only every expedition, but |
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| 302 | every merchant going through the desert has arms with him. Besides, money has been sent |
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| 303 | for us to Kashgar. Moreover, our co-workers, the Americans, go to Urumchi. And fourth, |
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| 304 | the Taotai himself has just approved our going to Kashgar.” |
|||||||
| 305 | ||||||||
| 306 | The messenger smiles, “All this is true. But Mr. Taotai sent me to tell you to go |
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| 307 | through the sands to Tun-huang.” |
|||||||
| 308 | ||||||||
| 309 | “But it is difficult to go there! But the Taotai himself said that there are robbers in |
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| 310 | the Province of Kansu!” |
|||||||
| 311 | ||||||||
| 312 | “Quite true. But Mr. Taotai changed his decision and indicates for you the path through |
|||||||
| 313 | the desert to Tun-huang.” |
|||||||
| 314 | ||||||||
| 315 | “It means that we cannot see either Yarkand, nor Kashgar, neither Aksu or Kucha. All |
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| 316 | these orders of the Chinese officials bring insult to the United States!” |
|||||||
| 317 | ||||||||
| 318 | “Speak yourself with Mr. Taotai. Today is New Year and if you will beg Mr. Taotai |
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| 319 | *very well* maybe he will again change his orders.” |
|||||||
| 320 | ||||||||
| 321 | “But we don’t want to beg. We desire justice.” |
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| 322 | ||||||||
| 323 | The messenger only smiles and suggests again that we go today to the Taotai. |
|||||||
| 324 | ||||||||
| 325 | Here also the people whisper to us a colorful detail. The case for our arms, without |
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| 326 | special reason, was made of a very huge size, like a coffin, and was carried on poles by |
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| 327 | four people. This procession went into the court of the Taotai during his festival |
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| 328 | lunch. The Chinese again whispered, “a coffin.” And the Taotai himself became pale and |
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| 329 | ordered them quickly to carry the case out of his court into the *yamen* of the |
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| 330 | Amban. He knows that he is committing an offense for which he will have to answer. |
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| 331 | ||||||||
| 332 | We go to the Taotai. As is prescribed for the action of a tragic |
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| 333 | *Grand Guignol,* the drama must be combined with the sideshow. On our way we meet |
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| 334 | a procession carrying paper dragons, rocks, fish and all sorts of tinsel. They are |
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| 335 | coming in our direction to congratulate us on the New Year. |
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| 336 | ||||||||
| 337 | The conference with the Taotai exceeded all limits of patience. We told him about the |
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| 338 | necessity of changing American checks in Kashgar. We told him about the necessity of |
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| 339 | having our teeth attended to. We told him about the hurried necessity of communicating |
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| 340 | with New York. We said that by his conduct he offended the dignity of America. We told |
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| 341 | about all causes and reasons. But the Taotai answered that we could go either through |
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| 342 | the Sanju Pass back to India (which is obviously ridiculous because the Pass is covered |
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| 343 | with ice until June) or we could go through the desert to Kansu (without arms, though |
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| 344 | infested with robbers, against whom he himself had warned us); or we would be detained |
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| 345 | in Khotan. I pointed out that our forced detention was an arrest for which we gave no |
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| 346 | cause. The Taotai repeated the same words, insisting that our passport, which was given |
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| 347 | by order of the Peking government, was not valid. Is it possible that Mr. Chang Lo, the |
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| 348 | representative of China, at the League of Nations, does not know how to give a passport? |
|||||||
| 349 | But the Taotai had never heard of the League of Nations. I pointed out that in view of |
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| 350 | such offensive conduct, I desired to leave China completely. The Taotai repeated the |
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| 351 | same thing. The people behind the Taotai’s back laughed and pointed to his head. We |
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| 352 | disputed unceasingly. It was impossible to follow up this complicated fissure of |
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| 353 | ignorance and madness. The Taotai was trying to annihilate our sympathy for China. We |
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| 354 | remembered one of our acquaintances, a progressive Chinese, in America. Listening to my |
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| 355 | defense of China, he somehow withered and asked sadly: “And you yourself, have you |
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| 356 | already been in China?” I answered, “I am intending to go there.” He added: “We shall |
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| 357 | speak after your return.” |
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| 358 | ||||||||
| 359 | And so we returned to our house *arrested.* We sat upon our packed trunks and we |
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| 360 | ended the New Year’s Day by composing a written address to the Consuls of Kashgar: “The |
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| 361 | Roerich Expedition on the eve of leaving for Kashgar has been arrested by the Chinese |
|||||||
| 362 | officials of Khotan without cause occasioned on the part of the Expedition. |
|||||||
| 363 | ||||||||
| 364 | “In view of the absence of a United States Consul, we are addressing ourselves herewith |
|||||||
| 365 | to the representatives of foreign governments in the city of Kashgar with the urgent |
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| 366 | demand that they show the most serious consideration in obtaining permission at once for |
|||||||
| 367 | the Expedition to proceed to Kashgar. In the event that permission of the Kashgar Taotai |
|||||||
| 368 | be insufficient we beg that they telegraph at our expense to the Governor-General of the |
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| 369 | Province of Urumchi. |
|||||||
| 370 | ||||||||
| 371 | “Three causes compel us precipitately to hurry on. These are: First, the necessity to |
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| 372 | communicate with our representatives from America; second, the necessity to see the |
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| 373 | doctor of the Swedish Mission; third, the necessity of receiving money in Kashgar.” |
|||||||
| 374 | ||||||||
| 375 | And so we shall wait. Our letters at best can reach only in nine days, if they reach at |
|||||||
| 376 | all. We have received back five of our very important telegrams undispatched. Everything |
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| 377 | has become really dangerous, because the officials are in every way hindering our |
|||||||
| 378 | communications with America. Our arms are seized. Of what else do they wish to deprive |
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| 379 | us? |
|||||||
| 380 | ||||||||
| 381 | We have received a note about the seizure of our arms. It begins thus: “I am giving this |
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| 382 | paper for the reason that before me appeared a foreign man, Hulitzu, the other name, |
|||||||
| 383 | Loluchi, etc.” It appears that Hulitzu means Roerich and Loluchi is also Roerich. Who |
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| 384 | can make anything out of this diabolic nonsense! |
|||||||
| 385 | ||||||||
| 386 | It is significant that America is again completely ignored in this manuscript. It seems |
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| 387 | that altogether the Taotai, even more than Columbus, doubts the existence of some kind |
|||||||
| 388 | of unknown-to-him America, which is called Mei-Kuo. |
|||||||
| 389 | ||||||||
| 390 | E.I. is very depressed. She set out with such an open heart. She says: “What shall one |
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| 391 | do with humanity; these are not men.” George is very downcast: “But that China, which is |
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| 392 | shown to us in museums and lectures, has nothing in common with what is occurring!” Our |
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| 393 | Chinese has drooped altogether, and begs us not to speak of anything because they will |
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| 394 | kill us, “because these are thieves, murderers and dogs!” The lama whispers, “The |
|||||||
| 395 | Chinese never act differently.” All this becomes dangerous. |
|||||||
| 396 | ||||||||
| 397 | Sir Aurel Stein gives in his book, as an authentic fact, that the Taotai in Kashgar for |
|||||||
| 398 | a few years of his administration transferred in his name to Hankow two million |
|||||||
| 399 | *taels.* We thought this communication impossible, although Sir Aurel Stein is an |
|||||||
| 400 | authoritative scientist. But is it possible? Is it possible? . . .And you, builders of |
|||||||
| 401 | new China, how hard it must be for you! And are you many? But of course the history of |
|||||||
| 402 | the world has always been created by the minority. |
|||||||
| 403 | ||||||||
| 404 | I hope that the Roosevelts had it easier. They happily avoided the sack of Khotan. And |
|||||||
| 405 | withal, hunting in the mountains saves one from daily communications with the Taotai and |
|||||||
| 406 | Amban. In the mountains no one harmed us, nor placed obstacles in our way. And there was |
|||||||
| 407 | no one to change his decisions daily. And after all, this is not a difference of |
|||||||
| 408 | psychologies. And our Chinese and the Moslems equally understand the whole dangerous |
|||||||
| 409 | absurdity of the situation. Just now someone offered to find a faithful man who would |
|||||||
| 410 | place our letter to the Consuls into the postbag, because today near the post office |
|||||||
| 411 | some suspicious watchers were noticed. |
|||||||
| 412 | ||||||||
|
413 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
414 | |||||||
|
415 | **January 2, 1926** |
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|
416 | |||||||
| 417 | A merchant came inquiring about the possibilities of commercial connections with |
|||||||
| 418 | America. But what connections can there be if Khotan meets those coming from America in |
|||||||
| 419 | such hostility? One may not enter and may not leave. Such commercial connections! |
|||||||
| 420 | ||||||||
| 421 | The more hostile the officials are to us, the more sympathetically is the population |
|||||||
| 422 | inclined toward us. They offer to send over our addresses to the Consuls in a more |
|||||||
| 423 | certain way. Our people are sincerely indignant, especially at the seizure of the arms. |
|||||||
| 424 | They say: “They will never return the arms.” Three Chinese advise us to go on Russian |
|||||||
| 425 | roads. They express the belief that the officials, as usual, want to extort a large |
|||||||
| 426 | bribe. Our case is being discussed from all sides at the bazaar. Today the Bek |
|||||||
| 427 | accompanied George even during his ride. It means that the surveillance over us is |
|||||||
| 428 | intensified. |
|||||||
| 429 | ||||||||
| 430 | I am writing all these details because it will be useful for others. Verily, it is |
|||||||
| 431 | instructive! We have a passport from the Peking government; a special letter of |
|||||||
| 432 | recommendation from the Chinese Ambassador in Paris; a wonderful letter from the United |
|||||||
| 433 | States Consul in Calcutta; a letter from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London; a |
|||||||
| 434 | letter from the Archaeological Society in Washington; letters from six institutions in |
|||||||
| 435 | the United States. With us is a Chinese, a former officer and diplomat. With us are |
|||||||
| 436 | books published about my paintings. With us are English, French and other passports. And |
|||||||
| 437 | even with this complete symposium, one risks falling prey to the tyranny of dangerous |
|||||||
| 438 | despots. All this is very instructive. |
|||||||
| 439 | ||||||||
| 440 | Just now they have brought a new “authentic” communication from the bazaar. Don’t you |
|||||||
| 441 | see, during the search of our house many *machine guns* were found*.* |
|||||||
| 442 | Tomorrow they will discover that my pictures are wings of aeroplanes. They speak about a |
|||||||
| 443 | Great Foreigner who travels from Tibet on one hundred horses! On verifying this, it |
|||||||
| 444 | comes out that this is also about us. |
|||||||
| 445 | ||||||||
|
446 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
447 | |||||||
|
448 | **January 3, 1926** |
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|
449 | |||||||
| 450 | They speak in the bazaar about the fight of the ten Chinese generals. They speak about |
|||||||
| 451 | the death of Chang-Tso-Lin. They speak about foreigners who brought four hundred cases |
|||||||
| 452 | of arms. On verification, it appears that this rumor is also about us. Today our letter |
|||||||
| 453 | to the Consuls left. The men are afraid to go through the desert without arms. It is |
|||||||
| 454 | impossible to foresee into how the present events will resolve themselves. |
|||||||
| 455 | ||||||||
|
456 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
457 | |||||||
|
458 | **January 4, 1926** |
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|
459 | |||||||
| 460 | A Sunday bazaar communication. At the bazaar the Kalmucks were betting about our |
|||||||
| 461 | success. And the forecasting was successful, as never before. And they ran to |
|||||||
| 462 | communicate it to us. The Taotai himself with his foolish raids is helping in the |
|||||||
| 463 | spreading of absurd rumors. We shall in some way or other leave, but he will strangle |
|||||||
| 464 | himself in his garden of madness. I have decided to communicate with America and to give |
|||||||
| 465 | up the plan of going through China. I have too many reasons against it. I undertook to |
|||||||
| 466 | paint but I did not agree to pursue foolish controversies with madmen. One can cross the |
|||||||
| 467 | highest mountains, one can find a common tongue with the most primitive tribes, but |
|||||||
| 468 | savages in dress clothes with decorations and many wives, are absolutely not acceptable |
|||||||
| 469 | and do not enter into any evolution. |
|||||||
| 470 | ||||||||
| 471 | They come to ask us to help a woman going through a difficult childbirth. Of course we |
|||||||
| 472 | are helpless. But the Chinese knows a sure remedy: “This is the devil sitting under the |
|||||||
| 473 | bed and it hinders the woman from giving birth. One has to shoot with a gun under the |
|||||||
| 474 | bed and the devil will run away and the woman will give birth immediately!” The Chinaman |
|||||||
| 475 | has another conjecture; he says with a very important air: “The Tibetans are fools. They |
|||||||
| 476 | think that in heaven there is only one dragon. This is foolish. In the heaven there are |
|||||||
| 477 | a dragon and a bird. One dragon cannot make rain.” The Chinese also knows that there |
|||||||
| 478 | exists a district where only women live and they give birth only to girls. He dislikes |
|||||||
| 479 | *“revived corpses”* very much. |
|||||||
| 480 | ||||||||
| 481 | We are formulating our accusation against the Taotai for the Governor-General as |
|||||||
| 482 | follows: We accuse Ma-ta-jen Taotai of Khotan of the following: 1. Of a deeply insulting |
|||||||
| 483 | attitude toward the dignity of the United States of America and toward the cultural goal |
|||||||
| 484 | of our expedition. 2. Of his insulting refusal to take into consideration the letter |
|||||||
| 485 | from the Consul-General of the United States in India. 3. Of his insulting prohibition |
|||||||
| 486 | put upon the pursuit of artistic work in Khotan under threat of confiscating all art |
|||||||
| 487 | materials belonging to the expedition. 4. Of the insulting refusal to take into |
|||||||
| 488 | consideration all letters and authorizations from the American institutions which have |
|||||||
| 489 | organized the expedition. 5. Of the insulting behavior toward our personal dignity. 6. |
|||||||
| 490 | Of the insulting refusal to recognize as valid our Chinese passport given to us by order |
|||||||
| 491 | of the Peking government, through Mr. Cheng Lo, the Chinese Ambassador in Paris. 7. Of |
|||||||
| 492 | the refusal to take into consideration the letter given by Mr. Cheng Lo to all governors |
|||||||
| 493 | of Turkestan. 8. Of forcibly detaining the expedition in Khotan which ruined the |
|||||||
| 494 | scheduled plans of the expedition. 9. The insulting seizure of all our arms (two guns, |
|||||||
| 495 | one hunter’s gun and three revolvers), which deprived the expedition of all means of |
|||||||
| 496 | defense, although every traveler crossing the desert carries arms. 10. Of the insulting |
|||||||
| 497 | and inhuman threat to send the expedition beyond the boundaries of China through the |
|||||||
| 498 | Pass of Sanju closed with snow. 11. Of the insulting refusal to take into consideration |
|||||||
| 499 | the presence in the expedition of a middle-aged lady. 12. Of insulting and inhuman |
|||||||
| 500 | intent to send the expedition to the desert in the direction of Tun-huang without arms, |
|||||||
| 501 | without money and with the members suffering from their teeth. 13. Of the insulting and |
|||||||
| 502 | humiliating change of his own orders each day. 14. Of the insulting and inhuman refusal |
|||||||
| 503 | to permit a personal consultation with the doctor of the Swedish Mission in Kashgar. 15. |
|||||||
| 504 | Of the insulting refusal to permit us to arrange our money affairs personally in |
|||||||
| 505 | Kashgar. 16. Of his insulting demand that we show the invalid pre-war passport, nine |
|||||||
| 506 | years after the revolution. 17. Of his insulting refusal to permit us to communicate |
|||||||
| 507 | with American institutions from Kashgar. |
|||||||
| 508 | ||||||||
| 509 | If Ma-ta-jen, the Taotai of Khotan, would like to follow the indications from the |
|||||||
| 510 | Governor-General at Urumchi he would strive to direct the expedition just there. His |
|||||||
| 511 | repeated refusals to permit us to proceed to Urumchi via Kashgar show his criminal |
|||||||
| 512 | intentions. The above-mentioned accusations force us to demand a full and immediate |
|||||||
| 513 | satisfaction. |
|||||||
| 514 | ||||||||
| 515 | Also one must notice that in all negotiations, we pointed out to the officials that such |
|||||||
| 516 | actions as theirs would reflect on the Chinese students and Chinese quarters so numerous |
|||||||
| 517 | and widespread in America. But it was clear that the fate of their compatriots did not |
|||||||
| 518 | interest the criminal officials in the slightest. |
|||||||
| 519 | ||||||||
| 520 | Our lama informs us that a lama known to him was going on a pilgrimage to Tibet and was |
|||||||
| 521 | arrested by Chinese officials. The lama gave a bribe to the local colonel of a thousand |
|||||||
| 522 | *lan,* a horse and two pieces of cloth. And in the night the latter let him |
|||||||
| 523 | through. The lama walked for nine days by crossing at night and during the day hid |
|||||||
| 524 | himself in the sands. |
|||||||
| 525 | ||||||||
|
526 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
527 | |||||||
|
528 | **January 5, 1926** |
||||||
|
529 | |||||||
| 530 | Vedantists call Buddhists “Nastika.” It means godless people. However, Vedanta also does |
|||||||
| 531 | not concede a personal god but knows only the principle. The formula of initiation of a |
|||||||
| 532 | Buddhist is: “I take refuge in Buddha; I take refuge in The Teaching; I take refuge in |
|||||||
| 533 | the Order.” Does not this formula lead to endless knowledge—Buddha the man, the greater |
|||||||
| 534 | teacher of light, reverencing knowledge and summoning to go fearlessly along the path of |
|||||||
| 535 | general well-being. The entire contemporary evolution was foretold by Buddha—this lion |
|||||||
| 536 | of fearlessness and attainment. |
|||||||
| 537 | ||||||||
| 538 | An occidental newspaper from India reached us. Bose has discovered muscles in plants. Of |
|||||||
| 539 | course, if there are nerves, why not muscles. Bose is demonstrating just that page which |
|||||||
| 540 | is needed for the coming evolution. |
|||||||
| 541 | ||||||||
|
542 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
543 | |||||||
|
544 | **January 6, 1926** |
||||||
|
545 | |||||||
| 546 | Another “wonderful” detail about Khotan. A month ago a woman servant came to be hired—a |
|||||||
| 547 | strange Moslem woman; she at once threw back her veil and started vulgarly to smile, |
|||||||
| 548 | offering her services. The cheeks were rouged. The eyebrows thick as a finger—in one |
|||||||
| 549 | straight line. One felt something specially sent, unclean. We refused. She left. Today |
|||||||
| 550 | an old Chinese complained about rumors which the Amban spread that he made dishonorable |
|||||||
| 551 | offers to the washwoman. The old man is again indignant. At once we remembered the |
|||||||
| 552 | rouged one. Travelers, be careful! The old man protests: “The Amban himself has a wine |
|||||||
| 553 | shop in Yarkand. If only we could get soldiers from the Consul!” If even a Chinese |
|||||||
| 554 | dreams of the Consul’s soldiers one can imagine his mood. |
|||||||
| 555 | ||||||||
| 556 | The characteristics of the fifth Buddha: The North; the blessing of fearlessness; |
|||||||
| 557 | Akochir or Ak Dorje (the crossed Dorje); the sound A; Tara; Visvapani (the many-armed, |
|||||||
| 558 | all bestowing) Maitreya. |
|||||||
| 559 | ||||||||
| 560 | In his article in the Shanghai *Times* of 1925, “In the wilderness of Tibet,” Dr. |
|||||||
| 561 | Lao Tsin says, “in one of the sanctuaries I have seen one of its most remarkable |
|||||||
| 562 | characteristics—the mummified body of a scientist who, they say, died 350 years ago. |
|||||||
| 563 | Garbed in the costume of a Tibetan lama, as he was during his life, he sits in an |
|||||||
| 564 | armchair and appears like a man rather fallen asleep than dead hundreds of years since. |
|||||||
| 565 | Before him on the table lies an unfinished manuscript over which he was at work before |
|||||||
| 566 | his death. The body has turned yellow and dry with time, but as a whole it has kept |
|||||||
| 567 | incredibly well. Many legends were woven around these remains of the ancient Tibetan |
|||||||
| 568 | scientist. I was assured that three times during the period since his death, the body |
|||||||
| 569 | had changed its original position. And once it disappeared altogether and came back only |
|||||||
| 570 | after two or three days. Once the keepers of the temple, coming into the chamber where |
|||||||
| 571 | the remains were kept, discovered that the manuscript before him was completed with a |
|||||||
| 572 | message of the greatest importance for the whole world.” |
|||||||
| 573 | ||||||||
| 574 | Okakura notes: “You can laugh at us having ‘too much tea’ but could we not also suspect |
|||||||
| 575 | you Westerners of the ‘lack of tea’ in your constitution? You have gained an expansion |
|||||||
| 576 | of your possessions at the price of all calmness. We have created the harmony without |
|||||||
| 577 | force against any attack. Would you believe it? The East in certain respects is greater |
|||||||
| 578 | than the West! The sky of contemporary humanity is broken in the cyclopic fight for |
|||||||
| 579 | wealth and despotism. The world moves gropingly in the darkness of egoism and vulgarity. |
|||||||
| 580 | One buys science with a bad conscience. One manifests good will, out of love for |
|||||||
| 581 | utility. East and West, like two dragons tossed by the turbulent sea, are fighting in |
|||||||
| 582 | vain to conquer the precious stone of life. We need ‘Ny-uka’ in order to heal the great |
|||||||
| 583 | disaster. We await the great Avatar.” |
|||||||
| 584 | ||||||||
| 585 | Aurobindo Ghose says, “We say to humanity, ‘The time has come when you must take the |
|||||||
| 586 | great step and rise out of a material existence into the higher, deeper and wider life |
|||||||
| 587 | toward which humanity moves. The problems which have troubled mankind can only be solved |
|||||||
| 588 | by conquering the kingdom within; not by harnessing the forces of Nature to the service |
|||||||
| 589 | of comfort and luxury, but by mastering the forces of the intellect and the spirit; by |
|||||||
| 590 | vindicating the freedom of man within as well as without and by conquering, from within, |
|||||||
| 591 | external Nature.” |
|||||||
| 592 | ||||||||
| 593 | Alexandra David-Neel says in her article, “The Coming Hero”: (“La Vie de Peuple,” 1925, |
|||||||
| 594 | Paris.) “We can smile at these extravagant dreams but in those immense regions where |
|||||||
| 595 | they are accepted with unshaken belief and with the greatest reverence, their influence |
|||||||
| 596 | can become powerful and foreshadow completely unexpected events which the most skillful |
|||||||
| 597 | of politicians is unable to foresee.” |
|||||||
| 598 | ||||||||
| 599 | Read the story of David-Neel about the old lama who brought flowers upon the glaciers. |
|||||||
| 600 | Read the tale of the lama about the coming of the time of Shambhala. From a local |
|||||||
| 601 | story-teller the lama is transformed into a participant in international events. |
|||||||
| 602 | David-Neel has brought from Tibet several new variants of the manuscript about |
|||||||
| 603 | Shambhala. |
|||||||
| 604 | ||||||||
| 605 | For a scientist the whole net of prophecies and very significant indications drawn |
|||||||
| 606 | across the entire immeasurable distances of Asia, represents a remarkable interest. A |
|||||||
| 607 | poet would say that the sand and stones were speaking because often the ways of this |
|||||||
| 608 | speeding information are absolutely undecipherable. And you need but relate a piece of |
|||||||
| 609 | information when, immediately, one gives you in reply a still more significant piece of |
|||||||
| 610 | news. And at this, the half-shut eyes are faintly glistening. |
|||||||
| 611 | ||||||||
| 612 | And so we live. Once we receive a piece of information from the heights, and once from |
|||||||
| 613 | the abyss. Today a soldier stopped our Chinese at the bazaar, caught hold of his horse |
|||||||
| 614 | by the bridle, and demanded money from him. Yesterday one of our “guards” stopped a |
|||||||
| 615 | woman on the road and tried to demand money from her. And in such a country they have |
|||||||
| 616 | left us without arms! It is strange that Prjevalsky also had unpleasant experiences just |
|||||||
| 617 | in Khotan. Marco Polo condemns the customs of Khotan. So we sit on our trunks amidst |
|||||||
| 618 | untold infamy. They brought us information from the bazaar that the Taotai is |
|||||||
| 619 | introducing the opium trade in Khotan. |
|||||||
| 620 | ||||||||
|
621 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
622 | |||||||
|
623 | **January 8, 1926** |
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|
624 | |||||||
| 625 | A number of members of the brotherhood of Buddha spent their time in quarrels and the |
|||||||
| 626 | Blessed One left them. The neighboring donors were repelled by the quarreling ones and |
|||||||
| 627 | the latter were humbled and came to Buddha asking him to forget everything not referring |
|||||||
| 628 | to the causes of quarrels among them. But Buddha said: “Such reconciliation will not be |
|||||||
| 629 | fundamental. On the contrary, fearlessly uncover all the roots of the quarrels and of |
|||||||
| 630 | your animosity. Only then will reconciliation be real.” |
|||||||
| 631 | ||||||||
| 632 | Going to Asia do not take much food. Everything is there in sufficient quantity. |
|||||||
| 633 | Kashmiri agencies know nothing. They made us carry flour and rice with us. They warned |
|||||||
| 634 | us that there was no sugar. They made us take forage. However, everything is there and |
|||||||
| 635 | for the ten days of desert through Karakorum, not much provision is needed. It only |
|||||||
| 636 | makes the caravan senselessly long! |
|||||||
| 637 | ||||||||
|
638 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
639 | |||||||
|
640 | **January 10, 1926** |
||||||
|
641 | |||||||
| 642 | How is our consciousness enriched by sitting in Khotan? It becomes clear that a life |
|||||||
| 643 | such as that in Khotan should not exist. Imagine the lives of one hundred thousand |
|||||||
| 644 | people plunged into complete darkness, divested of all light. Out of darkness are being |
|||||||
| 645 | born disease, vice, lies, treachery and ignorance. The people have retained only their |
|||||||
| 646 | small trade, achieved by cheating and treachery. The understanding of quality in the |
|||||||
| 647 | products has died out. The understanding about celerity in work has perished. The |
|||||||
| 648 | understanding of the victory of labor is demolished. Submersion in the slush of bazaars |
|||||||
| 649 | and a mutual strangulation goes on. Thus it cannot continue! |
|||||||
| 650 | ||||||||
| 651 | The lama who warned us that “Chinese cannot act differently” is predicting another |
|||||||
| 652 | occurrence. He says: “When they see that things cannot continue in such insolence and |
|||||||
| 653 | cruelty, they will assure you that nothing at all happened, that it only appeared so to |
|||||||
| 654 | us and they were always friends. Note that they transmit everything by word of mouth and |
|||||||
| 655 | that the frightened Beks will deny everything that they have seen and heard. The only |
|||||||
| 656 | proof is the receipt regarding the seizure of the arms.” |
|||||||
| 657 | ||||||||
| 658 | You, builders of New China, remove the “buffalos” more quickly. The place for them is |
|||||||
| 659 | the zoo. |
|||||||
| 660 | ||||||||
| 661 | Our Khotan friend, Kudai-Berdi-Bai, relates with the humor of the East, about his visit |
|||||||
| 662 | to a miserly friend: “I come to him and he sits and washes heaps of silver coins which |
|||||||
| 663 | have become absolutely black. It appears that he keeps his riches in the ground and our |
|||||||
| 664 | earth is such that the silver gets absolutely black. And so I tell him, ‘Dost thou see, |
|||||||
| 665 | even the silver gets black when it is hidden from people. And thy face will also get |
|||||||
| 666 | black in the other world, if thou wilt uselessly hide thy riches.’ ” |
|||||||
| 667 | ||||||||
| 668 | This is a tale from the practical East. |
|||||||
| 669 | ||||||||
| 670 | Great auriferous sands were recently found two days away from Khotan, along the |
|||||||
| 671 | Karakash, Thousands of gold seekers who worked on the stream of the river Keriya left |
|||||||
| 672 | their work and turned to Karakash. A few more gold-bearing rivers were mentioned. Of |
|||||||
| 673 | course, all this is exploited by very crude means. In natural resources Sinkiang is a |
|||||||
| 674 | rich province. |
|||||||
| 675 | ||||||||
|
676 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
677 | |||||||
|
678 | **January 11, 1926** |
||||||
|
679 | |||||||
| 680 | The sensation of Khotan! Bazaar rumors came, about the dinner arranged by some official |
|||||||
| 681 | in Kashgar. It is being discussed at the bazaars in the most fantastic way. The Taotai |
|||||||
| 682 | officials, merchants and also many of the poorest inhabitants were invited to the |
|||||||
| 683 | dinner. The places were so arranged that the Taotai and the officials were among the |
|||||||
| 684 | most ragged beggars. The same thing happened with the richest man of the city. The host |
|||||||
| 685 | said: “Now we are not in office. Here we are all men, are all equals. Is it not so? |
|||||||
| 686 | Tomorrow you will be the head, Taotai, and today we are equal people.” According to the |
|||||||
| 687 | echoes in Khotan the impression was very great. So it is being related in the bazaar. |
|||||||
| 688 | One cannot discern where the people’s creation begins. |
|||||||
| 689 | ||||||||
|
690 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
691 | |||||||
|
692 | **January 12, 1926** |
||||||
|
693 | |||||||
| 694 | Letters came from America. Through Kuldja from November 5th and through Tashkent from |
|||||||
| 695 | December 1st; almost the same amount of time as to Ladak from New York. Beloved friends, |
|||||||
| 696 | we read with joy about all works, exhibitions, lectures, the school, the propaganda of |
|||||||
| 697 | art among broad masses; because all this is so imperatively needed. You are bringing |
|||||||
| 698 | true joy into the life of youth and are kindling the heart-fires. |
|||||||
| 699 | ||||||||
| 700 | We heard about some gigantic statues in Central Asia. It is difficult to know which; |
|||||||
| 701 | maybe these are the celebrated statues in Bamian, the half-destroyed city between Kabul |
|||||||
| 702 | and Balkh. The height of one of these is 170 feet. Some consider them entirely of |
|||||||
| 703 | Buddhist origin. Others see in them the most ancient antiquity. The same unclearness as |
|||||||
| 704 | about the stone giants on the Easter Island. |
|||||||
| 705 | ||||||||
| 706 | Our Chinese is deeply offended by the officials. He does not want to go back to China. |
|||||||
| 707 | He hung on the gates some sort of tremendous vivid notice—black and red. In translation |
|||||||
| 708 | it means: “The American art officer, Lo, forbids any one to enter into the court who has |
|||||||
| 709 | no business there.” It appears that “Lo” means Roerich!?! “Lo”—in Chinese, also means |
|||||||
| 710 | “alarm.” |
|||||||
| 711 | ||||||||
| 712 | In Khotan there was a fire during the night. The Sarts interpreted it as due to the |
|||||||
| 713 | unworthy conduct of the officials against the good guests. |
|||||||
| 714 | ||||||||
|
715 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
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|
716 | |||||||
|
717 | **January 13, 1926** |
||||||
|
718 | |||||||
| 719 | A telegram came: “Washington undertakes necessary measures.” But the arms were all taken |
|||||||
| 720 | away. And without arms I cannot attempt to sketch in unknown countries. I have a great |
|||||||
| 721 | deal of experience and reasons for this. Not only people but wild dogs have taught me |
|||||||
| 722 | this custom. Isn’t it insolent to ignore all papers and to deprive us of all means of |
|||||||
| 723 | defense? There have been many cases of oppression of expeditions but such an act is not |
|||||||
| 724 | known in literature. I am placing the responsibility upon the government of the Chinese |
|||||||
| 725 | Republic. |
|||||||
| 726 | ||||||||
|
727 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
728 | |||||||
|
729 | **January 15, 1926** |
||||||
|
730 | |||||||
| 731 | From America came a telegram so distorted that it was impossible to understand the |
|||||||
| 732 | meaning. The unseen friends from the bazaar brought the news about a big quarrel between |
|||||||
| 733 | the Taotai and Amban. |
|||||||
| 734 | ||||||||
| 735 | And even days of seeming inactivity are full of signs. Here is a remarkable little |
|||||||
| 736 | casket! There is news about the monastery near Kuldja! And there is Maitreya! There is |
|||||||
| 737 | information that often the ruler of a district of China simply doesn’t recognize the |
|||||||
| 738 | money of his predecessor. And the people do not know where to keep their money. From |
|||||||
| 739 | everyday life, the discussion ascends to the problems of the common order of things. |
|||||||
| 740 | There are periods, called the “balls of events,” when each circumstance rolls toward one |
|||||||
| 741 | and the same common end. It is now for seventeen years that we are watching the |
|||||||
| 742 | manifestations of the hastening of evolution. Between the tomb of that which passes away |
|||||||
| 743 | and between the cradle of the future, electrons of untold energy are gathering new |
|||||||
| 744 | formations. And the painter-hermit of the mountain abodes is tracing with surety the |
|||||||
| 745 | battle and victory of Maitreya. Confidently he is tracing the lines and the distinctions |
|||||||
| 746 | of those approaching ones, and the signs of those passing away! And quietly and |
|||||||
| 747 | indisputably he is signing the dedication: “Homage to the ruler of the law, to the |
|||||||
| 748 | exalted ruler of the northern country of Shambhala.” In Burkan Bulat will be the Temple |
|||||||
| 749 | of Shambhala. |
|||||||
| 750 | ||||||||
|
751 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
752 | |||||||
|
753 | **January 17, 1926** |
||||||
|
754 | |||||||
| 755 | The officials are intensifying their criminality. The Amban started to open packages |
|||||||
| 756 | addressed to us. Today he opened a package from the Shanghai bank. We shall say to him, |
|||||||
| 757 | “Do not forget, Amban, that it is just the Statue of Liberty which opens the way to the |
|||||||
| 758 | heart of America. Now all Khotan knows that we have received money. Yet you and the |
|||||||
| 759 | Taotai have deprived us all of means of self-defense.” |
|||||||
| 760 | ||||||||
| 761 | The Amban notifies us that there is an order from Urumchi to open all letters and to |
|||||||
| 762 | seize our arms. But that instead of arms, they will give us military escort. I answer |
|||||||
| 763 | him that we cannot trust their soldiers, because they all run away at the sight of our |
|||||||
| 764 | one dog. However, three years ago an American expedition had to defend itself from an |
|||||||
| 765 | attack of a pack of dogs, by shooting. I point out to the Amban that the arms taken by |
|||||||
| 766 | him belong to the American institutions but again America is being completely ignored. I |
|||||||
| 767 | also tell him that his soldiers will end by shooting each other. The Amban did not have |
|||||||
| 768 | time to reach the city when, in confirmation of my remarks about the guard, the |
|||||||
| 769 | secretary came galloping to us, asking help in a serious surgical case. Two of the |
|||||||
| 770 | Taotai’s closest bodyguards shot one another. Of course we are not surgeons. It appears |
|||||||
| 771 | that the officer of the Taotai was stealing some things and the other guard discovered |
|||||||
| 772 | it and, as a result, the two were seriously wounded. And from these thieves and |
|||||||
| 773 | assassins, the Taotai wishes to provide our guard. Our old man Ts’ai Han Chen says, |
|||||||
| 774 | “Formerly, for opening a stranger’s letter in China, one was punished by having an eye |
|||||||
| 775 | taken out and a hand cut off. But here there are no officers but robbers.” It will be |
|||||||
| 776 | enlightening to see how we will find the central power of the province Sinkiang, in |
|||||||
| 777 | Urumchi. |
|||||||
| 778 | ||||||||
|
779 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
780 | |||||||
|
781 | **January 18, 1926** |
||||||
|
782 | |||||||
| 783 | The first snow fell. E.I. is feeding the birds. Masses of speckled little birds |
|||||||
| 784 | surrounded her. Hindus often feed the birds during the winter months. |
|||||||
| 785 | ||||||||
|
786 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
787 | |||||||
|
788 | **January 19, 1926** |
||||||
|
789 | |||||||
| 790 | We received a letter from the English Consul in Kashgar. Apparently they are making |
|||||||
| 791 | efforts to enable us to leave Khotan. |
|||||||
| 792 | ||||||||
|
793 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
794 | |||||||
|
795 | **January 20, 1926** |
||||||
|
796 | |||||||
| 797 | There is a letter from the English Consul. He notifies us that following his efforts and |
|||||||
| 798 | those of the Kashgar Taotai, the Governor-General invites us immediately to proceed to |
|||||||
| 799 | Kashgar. We will see how and when the local “Governors” are going to notify us. |
|||||||
| 800 | ||||||||
| 801 | Toward evening the Amban notifies us briefly through Khudai-Berdí-Baí that a letter has |
|||||||
| 802 | been received from the Governor-General with permission for us to go to Kashgar. Even |
|||||||
| 803 | the commands of the Governor-General are being transmitted through the private note of a |
|||||||
| 804 | private man. What an organization! At our first meeting I said to the Taotai that Akbar |
|||||||
| 805 | the Great called travelers the best ambassadors of his kingdom and always took care to |
|||||||
| 806 | preserve good relationship with them. I can say now to the Taotai, “You, Ma-ta-jen, for |
|||||||
| 807 | three months have very actively created our mood and I did not hide from you that I |
|||||||
| 808 | would describe all that occurred. Confucius ordained that according to the committed |
|||||||
| 809 | evil, one must act, in *just measure.* China is a Confucian country and according |
|||||||
| 810 | to Confucius I have to write on your portrait: Ma-ta-jen, ignorant and cruel savage.” |
|||||||
| 811 | And according to the teaching of Buddha, “ignorance is qualified as the greatest crime.” |
|||||||
| 812 | And the same wise Confucius rejected all who rebelled against art and knowledge. |
|||||||
| 813 | However, we all had approached with a sincere desire to inscribe into our notes that the |
|||||||
| 814 | powers of China had become more cultured than during the times of the decline of the |
|||||||
| 815 | empire. And now let us again piercingly look into the eyes of the new officials. Does |
|||||||
| 816 | there not hide behind their shoulders an ignorant Ma-ta-jen? |
|||||||
| 817 | ||||||||
| 818 | People have started to move. Preparations! Out of all the trunks, the best are |
|||||||
| 819 | American—Belber. They do not bend on all passes nor let any dust through. The horse |
|||||||
| 820 | easily takes two trunks. Rather bad are the Kashmiri *yaktans.* |
|||||||
| 821 | ||||||||
| 822 | Our Chinese is rejoicing. He apparently feared direct assaults on the part of the |
|||||||
| 823 | Taotai. Now he recognizes that his following of “the customs” was superfluous. He made |
|||||||
| 824 | us bring firecrackers to the Taotai, the day of the completion of his new house. He |
|||||||
| 825 | arranged a procession with gifts when he came to Khotan. Against our wishes he brought |
|||||||
| 826 | cards to the new Amban. According to the results this was all in vain. He explains, that |
|||||||
| 827 | these are not officers but bandits, but he also agrees that one must abandon these |
|||||||
| 828 | customs. |
|||||||
| 829 | ||||||||
| 830 | As one might expect from these ignorant officials of Khotan, now they give us to |
|||||||
| 831 | understand that the command from the Governor-General came through their efforts. They |
|||||||
| 832 | do not know that in the letter of the British Consul the order of the receipt of the |
|||||||
| 833 | command is clearly outlined and they think that we believe them. |
|||||||
| 834 | ||||||||
| 835 | A *mafa* (a carriage) from Khotan to Kashgar costs twenty-five *sar;* a |
|||||||
| 836 | pack horse, six *sar.* (A *sar* is about one Mexican dollar.) |
|||||||
| 837 | ||||||||
| 838 | From the developed negatives many and necessary ones appeared to be spoiled. Some have |
|||||||
| 839 | lines and black spots. While still in India they warned us that these so-called tropical |
|||||||
| 840 | films give bad results. Generally all our regular films turn out. Well, but tropical |
|||||||
| 841 | films are all cloudy. And often a whole half of a film or more, is either white or |
|||||||
| 842 | black. Very good are *Agfa.* |
|||||||
| 843 | ||||||||
| 844 | The local bearded men are coming to talk over all sorts of things. Of course, the true |
|||||||
| 845 | intention is not revealed at once. Of course, they wish to hear about the new customs. |
|||||||
| 846 | They think that these customs could be good. They think that all men must labor. All is |
|||||||
| 847 | well and the tea is being consumed in full accord. But suddenly one drags from out his |
|||||||
| 848 | bosom a number of a London newspaper with a reprint of a drawing from a Moscow magazine, |
|||||||
| 849 | *Bezbojnik.* Allah also received his unlucky share there. The bearded one |
|||||||
| 850 | “naively” inquires, “But this seems to be Allah?” Of course it is evident and he |
|||||||
| 851 | concludes sourly: “We do not touch their Lenin. Then why do they offend our Allah? And |
|||||||
| 852 | then, do they know the whole Koran? Let them not offend us Moslems. We are many.” The |
|||||||
| 853 | bearded ones sourly departed. . . . |
|||||||
| 854 | ||||||||
| 855 | In Cairo, near Napoleon’s cannon-balls which stuck out in the walls of the Mosque, I |
|||||||
| 856 | asked the guide: “Why do you not remove these traces of war?” He answered: “We shall |
|||||||
| 857 | guard these marks of western sentiments.” |
|||||||
| 858 | ||||||||
| 859 | A representative of Japanese newspapers was asked, “Is corporal punishment of children |
|||||||
| 860 | permitted in Japan?” As befits a great country, the answer was in the negative. Really, |
|||||||
| 861 | are many of the attacks on Japan just? The courage and honor of the Samurai, the |
|||||||
| 862 | warriors; the heroism and self-sacrifice of the women; the intensified labor of workmen |
|||||||
| 863 | and husbandmen give undeniable charm to Nippon. I never had any collisions with |
|||||||
| 864 | Japanese. On the contrary, there appeared sensitive Japanese friends. I recall my |
|||||||
| 865 | articles, long since, about Japan. I shall not refute them, but I even will reaffirm |
|||||||
| 866 | much of what was told. Eliseeff, in Paris, spoke about the methods of teaching in |
|||||||
| 867 | Japanese monasteries. It is very remarkable. Sudden questions and the demand that the |
|||||||
| 868 | answer should not contain the least intrusion of the personal. As in life, appear the |
|||||||
| 869 | episodes of the Japanese drama. The assassins are stealthily creeping to kill the crown |
|||||||
| 870 | prince. In the helplessness of the moment, the nurse exchanges him for her child. |
|||||||
| 871 | Shockingly subtle is the expression of her cold official mourning over the supposed |
|||||||
| 872 | prince when her mother’s heart is torn with sorrow. |
|||||||
| 873 | ||||||||
| 874 | Tao-Te-Ching points out: “A sage places his personality in the last plan but |
|||||||
| 875 | nevertheless it appears on the first place. He considers his personality as if detached |
|||||||
| 876 | from him, and nevertheless his personality is preserved. Is it not because of this, that |
|||||||
| 877 | his ends are realized? Because he has no personal and private ends. He is free from |
|||||||
| 878 | self-exposition and therefore he gives light. He is free from self-affirmation and |
|||||||
| 879 | therefore is being distinguished. He is free from self-pride and therefore his merits |
|||||||
| 880 | are acknowledged. He is free from self-satisfaction and therefore he enjoys superiority. |
|||||||
| 881 | And because of that he is to such an extent free from any competition. No one in the |
|||||||
| 882 | world can compete with him. He who possesses the qualities of Tao is like a child—the |
|||||||
| 883 | venomous insects will not sting him; wild animals will not attack him, birds of prey |
|||||||
| 884 | will not strike him!” |
|||||||
| 885 | ||||||||
| 886 | Buddha ordains: “By introspection, by virtue and purity a wise man creates of himself an |
|||||||
| 887 | island which cannot be submerged by any floods” (Udanavarga). |
|||||||
| 888 | ||||||||
|
889 | <!-- block4placeid:null --> |
||||||
|
890 | |||||||
|
891 | **January 23, 1926** |
||||||
|
892 | |||||||
| 893 | Our Chinese and lama apparently know well a certain type of Chinese official. Everything |
|||||||
| 894 | happens according to their “prophecies.” The officials repeatedly assure us of their |
|||||||
| 895 | friendship and put the blame for everything that happened on the Governor-General of the |
|||||||
| 896 | Sinkiang province. Now the officials have the problem, on what pretext to return our |
|||||||
| 897 | seized arms in order to restore everything to an elusive oral condition and to say: “All |
|||||||
| 898 | that occurred was the fantasy of travelers.” For three months we passed through a |
|||||||
| 899 | wonderful schooling; something of the course experienced by us nevertheless remains |
|||||||
| 900 | unclear. For instance, why did the officials in every way prevent us from communicating |
|||||||
| 901 | with America and why did they return us the telegrams undispatched? Whereas, it is known |
|||||||
| 902 | to everybody that through Kashgar and the English Consulate one can always communicate. |
|||||||
| 903 | The local people at once warned us not to believe the officials. And to our questions as |
|||||||
| 904 | to why, since we did nothing wrong, the local bearded one repeated, “Because they are |
|||||||
| 905 | fools.” But also in the actions of hopeless fools there is some sort of even distorted |
|||||||
| 906 | sense. It means, therefore, that here is concealed not only stupidity but even |
|||||||
| 907 | criminality. |
|||||||
| 908 | ||||||||
| 909 | A telegram came from New York: “American minister is acting.” |
|||||||
| 910 | ||||||||
| 911 | Let us finish by a page of that China which we did not see: “Finally the yellow ruler, |
|||||||
| 912 | son of heaven, conquered the demon of earth and darkness. But the giant in his agony |
|||||||
| 913 | knocked with his head the solar arch and broke into fragments the cupola of blue jade. |
|||||||
| 914 | The stars lost their nests and the moon wandered without aim amidst the scattered |
|||||||
| 915 | fragments of night. In despair the ruler searched everywhere to find who could restore |
|||||||
| 916 | the heavens. He did not search in vain. From the eastern sea arose the ruleress, the |
|||||||
| 917 | heavenly Ny-uka, shining in her armor of flames. She forged the five colors of the |
|||||||
| 918 | rainbow in her magic forge and restored the heavens.” |
|||||||
| 919 | ||||||||
| 920 | Let us not forget the colorful pollen of Japan which we did not yet see. “Komio, the |
|||||||
| 921 | regent of Nara, sang, ‘If I shall pluck thee, my hand will defile thee, oh flower. Thus |
|||||||
| 922 | as I see thee on the bosom of the meadow, so I dedicate thee to the Buddhas of the past, |
|||||||
| 923 | present and future.’ ” |
|||||||
| 924 | ||||||||
| 925 | And again a page from the true East apostrophizes the Mother of the World: “Thou, Who |
|||||||
| 926 | hast covered Thy Face! Thou, Who hast woven the texture of the far-off worlds, Messenger |
|||||||
| 927 | of the Untold! Ruler of the Elusive! Bestower of the Unrepeatable! |
|||||||
| 928 | ||||||||
| 929 | “By Thy command the ocean becomes silent and the whirlwinds trace the outlines of |
|||||||
| 930 | invisible signs. . . And She who covered her face will stand on guard alone in the glory |
|||||||
| 931 | of the signs. And none will ascend to the summit, none will perceive the glory of the |
|||||||
| 932 | twelve-signed symbol of her power. From the spirals of light she herself has woven the |
|||||||
| 933 | sign in silence. She is the Leader of those who go toward attainment. Four corners, the |
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| 934 | sign of affirmation, are manifested by her as a benediction to those who have made their |
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| 935 | decision. . . . |
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| 936 | ||||||||
| 937 | “A silent command, all-penetrating, unchangeable, indivisible, irrefutable, blinding, |
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| 938 | generous, indescribable, unrepeatable, unharmed, unpronounced, timeless, undelayable—the |
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| 939 | lightning manifested in the lightning!” |
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