󠀱󠀹XVIIIꓸ The Region of the Great Lakesꓸ Nag-Chu Dzong – Saga Dzong - blame None

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# George Roerich. Trails to the Inmost Asia

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## XVIII. The Region of the Great Lakes. Nag-Chu Dzong – Saga Dzong

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**March 4, 1928**

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It was still night when everyone rose and packed his bedding. March 4, 1928, will be

remembered by all members of the expedition as the end of their captivity in the

inhospitable uplands of Tibet. The dawn was softly coloring the sky and the snow peaks

of the Shang-shung Range lay behind a deep blue veil. Columns of smoke were rising above

the houses of Nag-chu but the streets were still completely deserted. The yak drivers,

*lakto*

in Tibetan, were taking their tea and

*tsam-pa*

, squatting near big fires laid on the pavement outside the gates of the expedition

headquarters. The loading of yaks began, and it took us almost three hours to start the

heavy caravan. We decided to leave Nag-chu after all the transport with the heavy

baggage had gone.

At half-past eight everything was finished and the last section of the yak caravan left

and disappeared in a narrow gorge across the river. We started, followed by two

*do-nyers*

from the

*dzong*

, who were to accompany us to Nam-ru. Our Mongol servants who were returning to Tsaidam

bade us farewell and presented ceremonial scarfs. They were very sorry to see us depart

and feared trouble from the Joint-Governors. They had heard that the Tibetan servants of

Dr. Filchner were thrown into prison and apprehended a similar fate. While in Nag-chu, I

had spoken to the local authorities on their behalf and they promised to give our men

every assistance on their journey to Tsaidam. The expedition issued to them certificates

in Tibetan, requesting the Civil and Military Authorities of Tibet to give them adequate

help and protection on Tibetan territory, and a high Tibetan lama, who was traveling to

Tsaidam, agreed to take them with his caravan. Some four months later, I was gratified

to hear that all of them had safely reached their native pasture lands.

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Having crossed the river, which was still frozen hard, we ascended a spur, and the rocky

silhouette hid Nag-chu with its monastery from our view. An indistinct path wound along

the southern slopes of a low ridge stretching to the west.

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From now on, we would face the west for some fifty days. The sun warmed the air and the

march was pleasant. We had finally escaped from Nag-chu with its refuse heaps and were

now on our way to India. We knew that the road would be difficult and that the country

which we had to cross lay above 15,500 feet, and had several high mountain passes. The

*chang-thang*

or the uplands of northern Tibet is a country of elevated plains and valleys intersected

by mighty snow ranges, the highest of them stretching from west to east. Being obliged

to change some of our caravan animals on each stage, we had to halt near nomad

encampments, and this sometimes necessitated long circuits. Most of the nomad

encampments are in mountain valleys, protected from winter winds and gales.

After a two hours' march along the southern slopes of the ridge which lay almost

parallel to the snow range of Shang-shung, we ascended a small pass on the northwest.

The progress along the northern slopes of the ridge was difficult, the horses frequently

sinking deep into the snow. Descending, we reached a narrow valley which lay west of the

pass. The frozen pools of water between hillocks made the march difficult. We followed

the valley for another two hours and at two o'clock reached a group of nomad encampments

pitched on the grassy slopes of nearby hills. Here we received the unexpected news that

our heavy transport on yaks, which followed another route from Nag-chu, along the crest

of the ridge, was traveling by the northern route some two miles distant from the place

where we were. We hastened northward and after fighting our way through a valley buried

under deep snow, we reached a small nomad encampment only to learn that no caravan had

been seen.

A strong southwest wind blew soon after we reached the place and we decided to wait and

send men to look for the caravan. The wind lifted clouds of thin powder-like dust from

the heaps of dung left near the encampment by flocks of sheep and it was impossible to

stay there. The Colonel and I accordingly went in search of a cleaner place for the

camp. Across the valley we succeeded in finding a dry patch of ground sufficient to

accommodate all our tents, and waved to the rest of the party to join us. We remained

there for about an hour, squatting on the ground among stones and protecting ourselves

as far as possible from the bitter southwest wind. Suddenly a rider appeared, struggling

in the deep snow of the valley. He proved to be Ochir, one of our Mongols, who reported

that our horses and camels had reached the encampments on the southern route and that

the heavy transport on yaks was due to arrive by the same route. We at once started back

and recrossed the snow-buried valley. Our dog Kadru, tired by the long march, refused to

follow and had to be taken in the saddle.

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On reaching the southern route, we saw approaching the first group of yaks, carrying our

tents and the rest of the equipment required in the camp. Toward six o'clock camp was

pitched and we were able to rest a little after the long, tiresome march. The wind

abated and we were able to enjoy a calm, warm evening; the thermometer was at -1°C. The

last section of our heavy transport arrived only about eight o'clock in the evening, the

animals being exhausted by the snows along the crest of the ridge. We experienced some

difficulty in finding good water and fuel, for the local nomads had prepared everything

for us some ten miles farther on by the banks of a small river called Tsang-po.

Considering the late hour and utter exhaustion of the caravan animals, it was impossible

to break camp and proceed farther, and after some talk we got everything we needed for

the night. There was no water in the valley and we were obliged to thaw snow. The guide

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who was sent with us from Nag-chu declared that he knew nothing of the route for the

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next day and we had to arrange for another guide.

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A lama from Amdo, who happened to live among the nomads of this locality, tried his best

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to arrange everything comfortably for us. I asked him how long it would take us to reach

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the frontiers of India. He waved his hands and declared that Jagar or India was very far

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off and that it would take us at least six months of strenuous journey!

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**March 5, 1928** *Through: Parta Valley*

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On the morning of the next day, we had difficulties getting fresh horses. Some of the

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relay horses supplied from Nag-chu proved to be unsuitable for long, hard marches

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through snow. The population had no horses and it was with great effort that we

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succeeded in getting a fresh horse for our cameleer. The morning was fine, and we

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admired the scenery—the glittering snow peaks of the distant Shang-shung Range.

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After a two hours' march along a broad valley with a slight ascent, covered by snow

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in some places, we reached the banks of the Tsang-po, near which the local headmen had

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pitched an ornamented white tent for us, and several black tents to accommodate our

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servants and the two *do-nyers* from the *dzong*. This was yesterday's

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stage and we therefore decided to continue our march and to reach Parta, which was our

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halting place for the day, according to the official letter or *da-yig* sent

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ahead of us from Nag-chu announcing our arrival. We crossed a broad plain covered with

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snow. One month earlier a passage across the plain would have been most difficult

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because of deep snow, but now it had settled sufficiently and in some places one could

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see the quills of the rough grass of the Tibetan uplands sticking out of the snow. On

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the southwest rose a snow-covered range, apparently a northern branch of the

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Shang-shung.

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Having crossed the plain, we ascended a low ridge and reached a narrow valley with

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traces of former encampments. A bitter southwest wind which started about noon made the

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march difficult. The sun disappeared behind heavy, gray clouds which drifted with

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tremendous speed.

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At one o'clock in the afternoon we reached the broad, circular valley called Parta.

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Several tents were pitched for us in a narrow side valley. A crowd of Chang-pas or

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northerners with their headman helped us pitch the tents. It was a difficult task, for

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the wind continued with unabated force and soon turned into a howling hurricane.

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Everyone hastened to take shelter under the tents. It was getting dark but it was

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useless to light a candle because of the draught inside; therefore one had to sit

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quietly and listen to the noise made by the drifting snow and sand striking the outer

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flies of the tents. The valley of Parta southeast of our camp disappeared behind a veil

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of rapidly drifting clouds of snow and dust. There was something uncanny in this

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whistling and howling among the barren mountains and snow-covered valleys of this

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God-forsaken country. The whole night the wind stormed our camp, as if all the forces of

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nature were loose and were trying to overcome our tents in a desperate charge, uprooting

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the tent pegs and breaking the ropes. The Colonel's tent broke down under the

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terrific pressure. Toward daybreak, the force of the wind abated, and gave us a little

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rest before breaking camp.

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**March 6, 1928** *Through: Nam-mar phün-tshok*

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We left at about six o'clock in the morning and having ascended a low ridge to the

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west, emerged on a vast plain surrounded by low, stony ridges. The violent southwest

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wind which began soon after we started, made the progress exceedingly trying. The fierce

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wind of the Tibetan uplands, sometimes blowing with the force of a hurricane, unsteadies

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the nerves of the traveler and blackens his face beyond recognition. For some time we

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followed the northern shore of the lake Nam-mar phün-tshok, the first important lake on

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our way. To the west of the principal lake there were numbers of smaller lakes,

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surrounded by swamps. We were now entering the region of the Great Lakes, this great

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drainage-less basin, stretching in a succession of tremendous salt lakes north of the

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Trans-Himalayas. A passage near the shore of the lake was impassable because of swampy

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ground. We had to make a long circuit northward, and passed a number of geysers

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surrounded by layers of salt.

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Toward half-past one we reached the halting place for the day. The local headmen had

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prepared several tents for our party and heaps of argal lay near the entrances of the

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tents. Out of the hundred yaks, only twenty-nine carrying our tents reached the spot.

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The rest, unable to proceed farther, stopped for the night near the lake Nam-mar

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phün-tshok. It was disappointing news as it meant we would have to stay another day,

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waiting for the heavy transport. The wind abated toward sunset and we hoped for a quiet

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night. Golubin, who had had fever for the last few days as the result of riding in snow

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and wind, was feeling worse and our doctor gave him some aspirin and brandy to keep him

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warm.

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**March 7, 1928**

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On the next day, the heavy transport arrived at half-past eleven in the morning. The

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drivers related how they had lost ten animals on the way. I tried to get fresh animals

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from the local nomads to replace our tired ones, but the headmen complained that most of

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their cattle had died during the hard winter and although the southwest wind, which had

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been blowing every day for a fortnight, carried away a great deal of snow from the

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plain, still the cattle had nothing to graze on. After much talking we succeeded in

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obtaining only fourteen pack animals to carry our baggage to the next stage.

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The broad plain on which we were staying was still called Parta, which is the name of

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the pasture grounds situated along the plain for some forty-five miles. The valley was

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surrounded by low, stony ridges with eroded surfaces. A snow-covered peak to the

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southwest of the camp was called by the local population, Jung, and was some 18,900 feet

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high. It dominated the whole of the Parta grazing grounds. The mountain ranges toward

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the south of the valley were higher than those to the north and made a gradual

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transition toward the higher ranges forming part of the northern branches of the

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Trans-Himalayas. The grazing grounds of Parta are part of the Nag-chu-ka district.

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**March 8, 1928** *Through: Peak Jung*

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On the next day at seven o'clock we broke camp and followed the plain, which

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gradually rose toward the west. Having rounded the peak called Jung, we stopped after

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traveling for two hours and a half, near a number of encampments surrounded by the usual

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argal walls. It is the custom of local people to make very short marches in order to

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give sufficient time for the animals to satisfy themselves on the poor grazing grounds

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of the Tibetan upland. We tried to make the caravan men proceed a little farther, but

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they declared that they would not move, as it was the stage for the day. All further

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arguing was useless.

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**March 9, 1928** *Through: Lamsi Passa*

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The next day was very cold with a slight southwest wind.

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We passed the Jung peak and crossed the snow-covered Lamsi Pass. The descent, although

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not steep, was difficult for horses, because of the hard frozen, slippery snow.

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For two hours we continued to follow a stony trail in a south southwesterly direction

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ascending and descending numerous low ridges, all branches of the higher range in

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which the peak Jung was situated. Having reached a narrow snow-covered valley

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immediately south of the peak, we halted for the day. The local nomads had pitched

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three tents for us. Toward the west at a distance of some six miles, we noticed a huge

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salt lake, stretching north northwest by south southeast. The local people call it

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Nya-shing tsho. The valley in which we pitched our camp was still called Parta and

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represented the frontier of Nag-chu-ka. Tomorrow we would enter the district of

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Chö-khor, a property of the Sera Monastery in Lhasa.

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**March 10, 1928**

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We broke camp the next day about eight o'clock. Having ascended a snow-covered ridge

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to the southwest of our camp, we emerged on a sandy plain, which stretched south of the

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Nya-shing Lake. The lake was seen toward the northwest, beautiful with its dark blue

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surface encircled by white salt-covered shores. Local people affirmed that some kind of

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"aquatic cow" was found in the lake. These cows were sometimes seen at sunrise

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and the air resounded with their lowing.

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Toward noon we reached a small rivulet flowing toward the lake, and having crossed it,

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entered a hilly region cut by narrow valleys. For some time we continued to follow the

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course of a stream, but on reaching the foot of a pass, were stopped by one of the

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Nag-chu *do-nyers*, who came rushing back, reporting the disquieting news that

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the official letter from Nag-chu had been wilfully kept by the local headman. It was

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impossible for us to continue on our way as no arrangements had been made ahead of us.

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It was necessary to find the guilty man and to arrange for another dispatch rider to

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carry the letter to Nam-ru. I insisted that he should be brought to me at once. The

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culprit was produced, a fellow with a criminal face and shifty eyes. He was silent to

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all the questions we asked him and I ordered him to be tied up, pending further inquiry.

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We decided to hand him over to the higher local authority for proper punishment,

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according to the custom of the country.

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In the evening we had the great misfortune to lose the fine riding pony of Professor

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Roerich. It was a Karashahr pony and one of the best horses among our riding animals.

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**March 11, 1928**

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During the night a strong southwest wind tore some of our tents. Heavy bags of flour and

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fodder had to be placed on the tent pegs. Toward sunrise its force abated and we were

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able to start in mild weather. On crossing the pass west of our camp we ascended a

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succession of low, sandy ridges covered with good grazing, well preserved under the

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snow. Good grazing was usually found on patches of land covered by this detritus sand

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loess. This is generally true of Tibetan uplands. On a vast, sandy plain southwest of

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the Nya-shing tsho, the local peasants had prepared a tent for us. As we were only two

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hours on the march, we decided to go for another hour toward the head of the valley, and

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ordered the people to transfer the tents to another place. We rounded the northern shore

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of a small salt lake, separated from the Nya-shing tsho by a low-lying plain. Apparently

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it was formerly connected with the larger lake, but at some time had shrunk and the two

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lakes were now separated by the narrow strip of land. The smaller lake, during the

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period of summer rains, filled the dry bed. The local people told me that the length of

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the big Nya-shing tsho equaled three days' march, that is some fifty miles. The

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valley which we were crossing was surrounded by low, sandy ridges. Near the lake swampy

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patches of land were covered with scanty grass, which afforded pasture for the cattle

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owned by the nomads of Chö-khor. I was told that the local population had lost most of

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its cattle during the severe winter. We halted near a brook, among sandy hills situated

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northwest of the valley. The thing that surprised us most was the scarcity of big game.

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Since leaving Nag-chu, we had seen only two *kyangs*. The local nomads said that

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all the game had retreated far to the north in search of pasture. On the way we saw some

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carcasses of young Tibetan antelopes which had perished during the winter from want of

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proper grazing.

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The local nomads had little information about Nam-ru. Some said we should reach the

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district of Nam-ru in four days, others said ten. The headman told me that the lake had

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another name, Dung-tsho, so called because of the lowing of "aquatic cows." I

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failed to find out what kind of animals were meant by the name. We first thought of

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otter, which we noticed at Chu-na-khe and at other places of the Tibetan upland but then

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the water of the lake was salted. I tried to obtain the skin or the skull of the animal,

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but the local people had none.

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**March 12, 1928** [Pü-tsho Lake](/#m=9/31.41489/90.70381&l=Gs&p=259/o)

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We broke camp as usual in the early morning and having crossed the broad valley in a

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westerly direction, passed a series of small lakes. The largest of them was called

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Chag-tsho, others again called it Chang-tsho. It was extremely difficult to find out the

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correct names of places, as most of them had several.

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After a four hours' march, we turned into a mountain valley stretching toward the

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northwest and halted near a nomad encampment. Toward the southwest could be seen the

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small lake of Pü-tsho from where the local population got its salt. The valley belonged

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to another district called Sa-skya which was the property of the great monastery of

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Sa-skya in the Tsang Province. The region was barren, with an almost complete absence of

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vegetation. The local nomads seemed to be entirely degenerated and wild, as if the

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barrenness of the country had deprived them of the spark of humanity possessed by their

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neighbors to the east.

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**March 13, 1928**

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On the next day, we continued our route across a succession of low, sandy ridges. A

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piercing southwest wind, blowing from the Pü-tsho, froze us despite our Siberian fur

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coats. The continuous ascents and descents were exceedingly trying for the poor animals.

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After a two hours' march, we emerged on a rolling plain, stretching from the lake

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Pü-tsho toward the mountain ranges to the north. We camped in a narrow valley northwest

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of the lake, on the bank of a rivulet flowing in several beds. The local nomads still

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belonged to the Sa-skya Monastery. They refused to make the necessary preparations and

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the *do-nyers* from Nag-chu mildly whipped two of them. We found that the

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population of church lands was averse to obeying orders from Lhasa and our

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*do-nyers* had difficulty procuring the necessary supplies and relay horses.

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South of the Pü-tsho Lake rose mighty snow peaks. During the day's march we saw many

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carcasses of Tibetan antelopes. The local *gem-po* or headman assured me that we

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should reach the district of Nam-ru the next day. So far we had been obliged to change

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guides every day, as the men knew the route only for one day's distance from their

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own encampment.

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**March 14, 1928**

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We broke camp at half-past seven in the morning and having ascended a rocky spur to the

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west, rode again on the plain of Pü-tsho. We had to cross the broad plain toward the

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mountain ridge southwest of it.

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The plain was covered with gravel, alternating with patches of loess covered with grass.

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In the distance we noticed the first herd of *kyangs*. We did not try to shoot

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any of them as shooting was strictly forbidden by our passport from Nag-chu. About noon

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we halted near a nomad camp. One of the *do-nyers* went ahead in order to reach

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Chag-lung-khar, or Nam-ru dzong the same day and had asked us to halt here to give him

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time to reach the *dzong* and prepare animals for us.

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There was another route to Nam-ru, straight along the northern bank of Pü-tsho, which

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shortened the distance by two days. The route was completely deserted and no encampments

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were found along it.

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The local nomads, called Chang-pas or northerners, looked quite different from the

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Hor-pas. Here the Mongoloid type prevailed with developed cheek bones and round heads.

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The physical development was below normal. Scurvy and rachitis were very common. Today

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was the first warm day since our departure from Nag-chu; in the evening the temperature

360

was about -5°C.

361

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**March 15, 1928**

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We continued our march across the plain toward a narrow mountain valley in the ridges

367

southwest of the plain. The plain was everywhere covered by good grazing and we noticed

368

that the headmen lived in stone houses at the foot of the hills, a great improvement in

369

comparison with the Chang-ri wa nomads of the Nag-chu district. After a four hours'

370

march we entered the stony valley leading to a small pass. We halted at the foot of the

371

pass near some tents. We had a miserable afternoon, heavy clouds covered the sky and the

372

wet snow and cold wind were most unpleasant.

373

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**March 16, 1928** [Nam-ru dzong](/#m=9/31.35923/90.01512&l=Gs&p=141/o)

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Next day we started at eight o'clock and crossed the pass northwest of the camp. We

379

descended into a vast plain reaching far to the north. The plain was covered with

380

gravel, alternating with sand. There had been a heavy snowfall during the night and the

381

surrounding hills were covered with fresh snow. The barren hills that surrounded the

382

plain were greatly eroded by the continuous southwest winds and the amplitude of

383

temperature. Along the foot of the hills were moraines.

384

385

The southwest wind is one of the greatest factors in the physical geography of the

386

Tibetan uplands. In the winter it brings snow, in the early spring it melts and carries

387

away snow and erodes the southwest slopes of the mountains. In the period of summer

388

rains (July and August) it brings moisture and sometimes causes heavy rains. The country

389

in which we had been traveling for the past few days could be appropriately called a

390

geological cemetery.

391

392

For some time we went along the foot of the hills that rose south of the plain, then we

393

turned westward and having crossed a rocky spur crowned with an *obo*, we headed

394

toward the mountain ridge (18,000-20,000 feet) which rose to the south.

395

396

After an hour's march past sandy hills, we entered the mountain valley in which

397

Nam-ru dzong, the administrative center of the district, was situated. The valley was

398

full of hummocks that made progress extremely difficult. To reach the settlement, we had

399

to cross a large patch of swampy ground, frozen and slippery in winter. The village, a

400

collection of dirty, half-ruined stone huts, was situated on the bank of a small river

401

that flowed northward toward the plain. Large heaps of refuse and walls of argal

402

surrounded the houses. Numerous nomad tents were scattered in the vicinity. The house of

403

the *dzong-pön* in the center of the village was a miserable building with

404

several prayer flags on its roof. People said that formerly the district of Nam-ru was

405

governed by a local chieftain, whose house we had seen near the entrance to the valley,

406

built on a windy spot facing the plain to the north. Since the flight of the Tashi Lama,

407

a *dzong* was established at Chag-lung-khar to protect the route along the

408

western shore of the Chang Nam-tsho or Tengri-nor. In official correspondence the place

409

was known under the name of Nam-ru dzong, but the local people still called it

410

Chag-lung-khar. Two Lhasan officials were stationed in the *dzong*, a layman or

411

*dun-khor*, and a lama official or *tse-drung*. The *dun-khor* was

412

absent in Lhasa, but his colleague, the *tse-drung*, was staying at the

413

*dzong*.

414

415

On our arrival at the village we were met by the *do-nyer* from Nag-chu and a

416

mixed company of local chieftains, tribesmen, and traders from inner Tibet. We were

417

shown a place for our camp near the *dzong*, but as it was filthy and thickly

418

covered with dung, we decided to move across the river. Here a number of terraces, with

419

deep-cut, eroded canyons, afforded suitable dry ground for a camp. Having pitched camp,

420

we sent word to the *dzong-pön* of our intention of coming to see him. The

421

messenger returned and informed us that the *dzong-pön* would be very pleased to

422

receive us. We recrossed the river by a narrow, wooden bridge and proceeded to the

423

*dzong*. A number of retainers were waiting for us outside the gate.

424

425

The courtyard of the *dzong* was densely packed with bales of wool and butter,

426

all local taxes being paid in these commodities. A black nomad tent was pitched in the

427

center of the courtyard. We were ushered into a small room which was the apartment of

428

the *dzong-pön*. The official himself, a young man of about thirty, was seated on

429

a low seat near an altar, on which stood a clay figure of Sakyamuni, the Buddha. Behind

430

the altar hung several *thang-kas* or painted images representing Avalokitesvara

431

in his four-armed manifestation, the white Tara, and Yamantaka. Heavy silver cups and an

432

offering lamp stood in front of the images. On the wall opposite the window hung a large

433

collection of firearms. Tibetan officials are passionate buyers of arms and pay

434

exorbitant prices. The *dzong-pön* of Nam-ru had in his collection about thirty

435

Russian service rifles, several Japanese Arisaka rifles and German Mausers, besides

436

several German Mauser pistols and Nagan revolvers. A number of richly adorned Tibetan

437

swords hung with the firearms. Among them I noticed short Bhutanese daggers, long,

438

double-hilted swords carried on the back by Tibetan foot soldiers, and several long,

439

heavy sabers or *sho-lang*. I asked the *dzong-pön* what use he made of

440

this quantity of arms. He smiled and replied that in case of necessity he had to protect

441

the *dzong*.

442

443

We were seated on a long bench near the window on the right hand of the Governor and

444

Tibetan tea was served on a low table in front of us. The *dzong-pön* was the

445

brother of the wife of the Governor of Nag-chu and pretended to be our friend and

446

well-wisher. He informed us that the passport or *lam-yig* from Lhasa had not yet

447

been received and that he did not really know what to do with us. But as we were

448

recommended to him by the authorities of Nag-chu, he would send us off to the next

449

*dzong*. He had not received letters about us and was unaware of our coming. We

450

should have to remain for one day at Nam-ru and give him time to collect the necessary

451

animals for our caravan. We urged him to hasten our departure and to speak at once with

452

the chieftains and the local headmen. The headmen were accordingly invited. The

453

chieftain maintained that we should have to pay high prices for the caravan animals as

454

it was not the proper season for travel. The local population had no pack animals in the

455

vicinity of the *dzong*, except some *dzo* kept near the tents. Because of

456

the heavy snowfalls during winter, most of the nomads decamped toward the north and were

457

staying at places four or five days' journey from here. It would take some fifteen

458

days to get to Nag-tshang and caravan animals would have to be changed on each stage.

459

This was a great inconvenience, for in case the headmen on the stages would be unable to

460

supply us with a sufficient number of caravan animals, we should be held up indefinitely

461

on our way.

462

463

We insisted that the Governor should do all in his power to make the prices a little

464

more reasonable and to arrange everything for the following day, as we were in a great

465

hurry and the state of health of some of the members of the expedition was giving much

466

anxiety. In case of the death of any of the members, there would be a source of friction

467

and endless trouble for Tibet. The *dzong-pön* inquired whether we were aware of

468

the fact that many Europeans had been murdered lately in China and he desired to know

469

about the actions taken by the European and American Governments. I replied that the

470

Government of China had had to accept full responsibility for crimes committed on its

471

territory and would have to make good the inflicted damages. The *dzong-pön* said

472

that he was unable to order the peasants to bring the animals at once, for his post was

473

newly created and the peasants, accustomed for generations to be ruled by their tribal

474

chieftains, were very reluctant to obey an official from Lhasa who was a stranger to

475

them. There had even been cases of the murder of officials by local nomads. The

476

*dzong-pön* expressed his deep surprise that the Government had sent us by such a

477

difficult and circuitous route, instead of allowing us to cross inner Tibet somewhere in

478

the Tsang Province past Lhasa and Shigatse.

479

480

After much talking prices were finally settled—the hire of a riding horse from Nam-ru to

481

Shentsa was eight *ngü-sangs* and five *sho*. The hire of a yak was five

482

*ngü-sangs*. A mounted messenger would be dispatched at once to Shentsa to

483

announce our arrival and to prepare yaks on the stages, so that we should not be delayed

484

on our way. The departure was fixed for two days later.

485

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**March 17, 1928**

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The whole of the next day was spent in trying to obtain some fodder, frozen milk, and

491

mutton. To make the Governor a little more friendly, we presented him with a pair of

492

Zeiss field glasses. This made a good impression and we were supplied with twenty bags

493

of fodder for sixteen *ngü-sangs* and five carcasses of sheep. We distributed

494

small presents to the yak drivers who came with us from Nag-chu. Those who reached the

495

camp first, received somewhat more. All of them busily occupied themselves with the

496

sharpening of their swords on stones, as they were returning together to Nag-chu and did

497

not trust each other.

498

499

Late in the afternoon I went to speak to the *dzong-pön* about the

500

*do-nyers* who were to accompany us to Shentsa. I asked him to send a strong and

501

alert man, with a good knowledge of the route and the country we should have to cross.

502

He promised to send the same man who accompanied the Filchner Expedition to Shentsa

503

dzong. I took leave of the Governor, and returned to our camp to prepare the departure.

504

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**March 18, 1928** *Through: Ta-mar-khyer Pass*

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March 18, 1928. The early morning was clear and the day promised to be sunny. We wished

510

to hurry our departure in order to cross the mountain ridge situated west of the

511

Chag-lung-khar, before the beginning of the daily afternoon storm. The pack yaks were

512

collecting very slowly. One could see riders driving small groups of yaks before them,

513

coming toward our camp. Because of the heavy snows in the winter, most of the animals

514

were driven far to the north and the local population had difficulties supplying us with

515

a sufficient number of pack animals. Notwithstanding the delay we started at ten

516

o'clock and rode toward the mountain pass Ta-mar-khyer (about 16,700 feet).

517

518

The trail followed a narrow gorge with a rather steep ascent toward the summit of the

519

pass. The gorge was blocked by bowlders, and large accumulations of *débris* were

520

like ramparts, erected for the protection of the pass. From the top of the pass we

521

descended into a circular mountain valley sheltered on all sides by high mountain

522

ranges. From the summit we obtained a view of the small lake of Nam-ka tsho, lying in a

523

vast intermontane plain, north of the pass.

524

525

Several tents were pitched for us near a ruined stone hovel, formerly occupied by a

526

wealthy headman. The local headman, an old man whose head trembled and twitched

527

continually, met the caravan of the expedition. We had to change our caravan animals

528

again, but the change was effected smoothly, thanks to our guides from Nam-ru, who

529

proved to be exceptionally efficient fellows. The chief guide was a Tibetan nomad from

530

the region of Gyangtse, a man of good local knowledge, who had only quite recently

531

served as guide to the Filchner Expedition. He was dressed in a dark violet coat trimmed

532

with fur, and wore a dark red turban on his head. A long Kham-pa sword was attached to

533

his belt, and a huge, silver charm box was slung across his shoulders. His assistant,

534

with the official title of *mi-ser thü-mi* or "representative of the

535

peasants," was a pious man selected from the local nomads. He was a quiet man and

536

had a considerable influence over the local tribesmen. He was mounted on a yak and

537

managed his animal with wonderful dexterity.

538

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**March 19, 1928** *Through: Na-tra La Pass*

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We continued our journey westward, following a narrow trail leading to another pass,

546

the Na-tra La (16,900 feet). The route was indicated by several

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mani

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-walls built on either side of the trail. This route is usually used by pilgrims from

549

the nomad districts of Tibet on their yearly pilgrimages to the holy Kailasa Mountain.

550

From the summit of the Na-tra La opens a wonderful panorama on the surrounding

551

mountain region and the vast, sandy plain north of it. On the southern horizon rose a

552

high, rocky range with an average elevation of about 17,000 feet. At the foot of the

553

range stretched low spurs of sandrocks and fiery red limestone. In the rays of the

554

morning sun the desert landscape sparkled with varying shades of red, purple, violet,

555

orange, and yellow. The country bore a vivid resemblance to the desert region of

556

Arabia, and the dreary kingdom of sand of Chinese Turkestan. A small river, the

557

Cha-war tsang-po, emptying into the salt lake of Pang-gong tho-cha lying in the plain

558

toward the north, supported scant pastures along its banks. The descent from the pass

559

was effected by a narrow trail leading through an erosive gorge cut through a

560

succession of sandstone ridges.

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We halted for the day at the foot of a low, sandy spur, not far from several nomad

564

encampments. The day was warm and windless but the night was unexpectedly frosty, the

565

temperature falling to -12°.

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**March 20, 1928**

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573

March 20. We started comparatively late, at eight o'clock in the morning and having

574

crossed the spur west of our camp, descended into the plain. We camped on the opposite

575

bank of the Cha-war tsang-po, having covered only four miles. We protested, but the

576

guides informed us that we had reached the frontier of another district and had to wait

577

for fresh pack animals. Our present caravan animals were not supposed to go any farther.

578

The place of our new camp bore the name of Sho-de na-mo-che and belonged to the great

579

Tibetan monastery of Tashi-lhun-po. The local headman lived in a poor, stone hovel,

580

surrounded by several courtyards used as inclosures for sheep.

581

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**March 21, 1928**

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586

March 21. Before starting, we had an exciting time with our new relay horses. The

587

animals were fresh from the pastures and had spent a whole winter in the open without

588

being saddled or ridden. The result was that all of them were wild and pranced and

589

kicked.

590

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The trail followed a mountainous country of eroded hills of granite, sandstone with

593

layers of red limestone. Numerous

594

*mani*

595

-walls indicated the route. After a five-mile march over a highly intersected hilly

596

region, we reached a vast plateau covered by scant weathered grass. This plateau was a

597

favorite grazing place for wild game and we observed many Tibetan gazelles (

598

*Gazella picticaudata*

599

600

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Having crossed a low mountain col, the Chyang-ku La, we descended through a narrow

604

gorge into a narrow valley situated between two sandstone spurs. The numerous dry beds

605

of temporary rivulets indicated the considerable amount of precipitation received by

606

the locality in the rainy months of the summer. From the top of the pass, we obtained

607

a fine view of the valley of the Buchu tsang-po, a small river emptying into the lake

608

Tsho Ziling.

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The locality bore the name of Lung-mar, because of the red limestone present in the

612

valley.

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**March 22, 1928**

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March 22. We started early notwithstanding a frosty morning, with a temperature of

623

-12°C. A piercing west wind made the progress of the caravan trying. Leaving the camp,

624

we ascended a low mountain col called Lung-mar La and descended into a valley lying

625

southwest of the pass.

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For about five miles we followed the valley in a southwesterly direction, then turned

629

southward and skirted a large massif of granite. The local nomads told us that the

630

Tashi Lama passed by this route during his flight in 1923. After a sixteen-mile march

631

we camped in a narrow valley sheltered by undulating, grassy hills. The place was

632

called Do-ring or "The Lone Stone" because of curious megalithic monuments found in

633

its vicinity. These monuments were the first of that kind discovered in Tibet. Until

634

now, only a few of the sanctuaries of the primitive Bön religion have been discovered.

635

These are mostly crude stone altars or

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lha-tho

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, and a number of them are known to exist in western Tibet, where they have been

638

studied by the late Dr. A. H. Francke, of the Moravian Mission at Leh.

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The megalithic monuments of Do-ring, situated some thirty miles south of the great salt

643

lake of Pang-gong tsho-cha, date back to the pre-Buddhistic period of Tibetan history.

644

They consist of important alinements of eighteen rows of erect stone slabs. Each of

645

these alignments was drawn from east to west, having at its western extremity a cromlech

646

or stone circle consisting of several menhirs arranged more or less in a circle. The

647

menhirs are vertically planted with a crude stone table or altar in front of them. It

648

was evidently a sanctuary of some primitive cult. But what was its age and use?

649

650

If one compares the famous megalithic monuments of Carnac in Brittany, to the discovered

651

megaliths of Tibet, he is at once struck by the remarkable similarity of the two sets of

652

monuments. The Carnac alinements are situated from east to west and have at their

653

western extremity a cromlech or circle of stones. The Do-ring monuments have precisely

654

the same arrangement. The sacerdotal use of the Carnac monuments remains unknown to the

655

present day, although numerous explanatory theories are advanced. It seems to me that we

656

possess a clue to the explanation of the megalithic structures of northern Tibet. The

657

megalithic monuments of Do-ring have a large figure in the shape of an arrow laid out

658

with stone slabs, and situated at the eastern extremity of the alinement with its point

659

toward the alinement. The arrow is an important symbol in the ancient nature cult of

660

Tibet, and is connected with the cult of the sun and heavenly fire in the form of

661

lightning, which it symbolizes. The present-day nomads wear ancient brass arrowheads as

662

amulets, which are said to represent petrified lightning after it has struck the ground.

663

Incidentally, it must be said that the arrow is sometimes regarded as a symbol of King

664

Kesar, whose connection with nature worship has been definitely demonstrated by Dr.

665

Francke. The presence of the arrow figure at the eastern extremity of the Do-ring

666

monuments indicates that the whole structure was dedicated to some nature cult and very

667

possibly to that of the sun, of which the arrow is a symbol. This is an important

668

conclusion, since up to now no megalithic monuments could be satisfactorily explained.

669

670

It is interesting to notice that most of the discovered megalithic monuments are found

671

along the great pilgrim route south of the Great Lakes that leads toward the Mount

672

Kailasa, the abode of gods, and the sacred places on the Nepalese border. In a future

673

publication on the Bön religion, I hope to show that this pilgrim route was a migratory

674

route in the past, and as such acquired a religious significance which it still

675

preserves.

676

677

The megalithic monuments discovered by the expedition are completely unknown to the

678

modern population. At Do-ring, some of the big menhirs inside the cromlech had traces of

679

butter libations, and I was told by a local headman that the stone was the abode of a

680

*lha*

681

or god protecting the route and travelers. Neither he nor the men of his tribe knew

682

anything about the origin of the stone.

683

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**March 23, 1928**

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688

March 23. At the start, we had some trouble with local horses, which had never seen

689

camels before and dashed in all directions. Some time passed before we were able to

690

bring all the animals back to camp. The route followed a mountain gorge, which stretched

691

in a southwesterly direction. Wind-eroded granite massifs rose on either side of the

692

gorge. The path led across a low, sandy ridge, from whose top we looked over a broad

693

grass valley dotted by encampments. The valley was inclosed by high, sandy ridges with

694

eroded surfaces. After crossing the valley, we entered a system of low, sandy ridges,

695

deeply cut by dry river beds.

696

697

At this point we found another group of megalithic monuments, three menhirs with stone

698

slabs arranged around them in a square. The offering table in front of the largest of

699

the menhirs, standing in the center, was missing and there were no traces of libations.

700

The sanctuary was probably long ago abandoned. The trail then turned southward and

701

followed the course of a small stream. The way was lined by numerous

702

*mani*-walls. Tents had been prepared for our use in a small side glen. On all

703

sides of the glen rose precipitous granite rocks. The process of denudation had laid

704

bare the granite structure of the western slopes of the mountains, exposed to the

705

continuous action of the prevailing southwest winds. Near the camp a moraine formed a

706

kind of rampart, blocking the valley from the southeast. The granite slopes of the ridge

707

bore many traces of glaciation.

708

709

Close to our camp, Professor Roerich discovered several graves probably belonging to the

710

neolithic epoch. They were inclosed by stones arranged in a square. Each grave was laid

711

out from east to west, and at its eastern extremity was a large bowlder. Evidently the

712

body was buried head eastward. Judging from the outward appearance of the graves, they

713

belonged to the same epoch as the megalithic monuments discovered by the expedition. It

714

was a matter of great regret that Tibetan authorities strongly objected to scientific

715

excavations and we had to content ourselves with taking photographs and making a survey

716

of the site. The local population was wholly unaware of the existence of the graves.

717

718

The conical stone huts which serve as storehouses for the local population are highly

719

interesting. They are covered with hides and plaster. Local women wear strange

720

headdresses consisting of an oval frame with black cloth stitched on it and somewhat

721

reminding one of the national headdresses worn by Slavonic peasant women. The surface of

722

the cloth is covered with coral, turquoise, and brass and silver ornaments, among which

723

Tibetan silver coins and Indian rupees are prominent. Over the ordinary nomad coat, the

724

local women wear a kind of cape made of gray homespun cloth, gathered in folds at the

725

back. The costume of the men is the usual fur coat and large fur bonnet, covered with

726

red or blue cloth.

727

728

The place was called Ratri and is twenty-two miles distant from Do-ring and four days

729

from Shentsa dzong, the administrative center of the Nag-tshang district.

730

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731

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732

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733

**March 24, 1928**

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736

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March 24. Because of an unavoidable delay with caravan animals, which had to be

738

brought from beyond the high ridge to the south of the valley, we started at half-past

739

nine. After crossing several sandy ridges we entered a broad valley in which lay the

740

lake Go-mang tsho. It is a salt lake with saline crust and sandy beaches on its

741

shores. Fresh water rivulets, rising in the surrounding hills, empty into the lake.

742

The route passed north of the lake. This particular portion of the route was rather

743

dangerous because of quicksands intersected by belts of sand dunes.

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744

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745

On passing the lake, we entered a broad, gravel plain with scant, coarse grass. Herds of

746

*kyangs*

747

and Tibetan antelopes were seen grazing in the distance. While crossing the plain we met

748

the dispatch rider sent from Nam-ru to Nag-tshang announcing our arrival. He was on his

749

way back to Nam-ru, and reported that everything was ready at Nag-tshang and that we

750

could start from there without any further delay.

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751

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752

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753

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754

Crossing the plain, which was about eight miles in width and seemed endless, we entered

755

a broad mountain valley, sheltered by low hills of sandstone. A strong, western wind

756

made the going extremely difficult and we were glad to find tents pitched for us at a

757

place called Ching-kar, a bleak spot inclosed on every side by mountains. We obtained

758

here a number of bronze arrow heads. It appears that arrow heads are often found in the

759

locality and are believed, as has been noted, to be found on places where lightning has

760

struck the ground. The local people are convinced that these arrows are not fashioned by

761

men, but represent petrified lightning which assumes the shape of an arrow after ten or

762

twelve years of lying under ground. Such arrows are considered to have miraculous powers

763

and they are worn as amulets.

764

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765

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766

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767

**March 25, 1928**

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768

769

March 25. We had another delay with caravan animals and the expedition started at

770

half-past eight notwithstanding the fact that all rose very early. Mrs. Roerich was

771

fortunate in making an interesting discovery, a brass buckle, representing a two-headed

772

eagle in a circle. The *motif* of the double-headed eagle is frequently found on

773

antiquities from the northern Caucasus, and can be traced back to the Hittite art of

774

Asia Minor. This buckle demonstrated once more the important fact of the intrusion of

775

central Asiatic *motifs* in animal style into Tibet.

776

777

The route lay across a vast, intermontane plain, covered by strips of sand and gravel.

778

The landscape was extremely monotonous and we were glad to enter again into a narrow

779

mountain valley southwest of the plain. Here the country suddenly changed and we found

780

ourselves traveling through an intersected country of barren and eroded ridges. In

781

narrow mountain glens were seen nomad camps. We passed the house of a local headman, a

782

stone structure surrounded by a stone wall of rough masonry with the usual prayer flags

783

fixed on it. Local nomads seldom erect permanent structures. All the stone structures in

784

the region are either the dwellings of local headmen or serve as storehouses to a

785

community of nomads.

786

787

To the west rose a mountain ridge with an average altitude of some eighteen thousand

788

feet. Many of its peaks were snow capped and its long, jagged wall was white with winter

789

snow. After a two hours' ride through this mountainous country, we came to a vast

790

plain inclosed by low, rolling hills. Several black nomad tents were waiting for us at

791

the foot of an eroded massif, which gave to the plain its name of Lug-thang trak-na or

792

"The Rocky Nose of the Sheep-plain." Herds of yaks were seen grazing at the

793

foot of the distant hills. A strong and steady western wind prevented the pitching of

794

tents and we had to wait fully two hours before we were able to fix our camp. After the

795

camp was pitched, I went to reconnoiter the plain, which was free from snow. It was

796

undoubtedly a former water basin, as numerous fossils proved. The distance of Lug-thang

797

from Ching-kar was about eighteen miles. We had to take special precautions to fix the

798

tent pegs with heavy bowlders and bags of grain, because the steady, western wind

799

resumed with renewed violence soon after sunset.

800

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801

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802

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803

**March 26, 1928**

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804

805

March 26. The road lay in a south southwesterly direction across the southwestern

806

section of the broad Lug-thang plain. The day was glorious and we thoroughly enjoyed the

807

ride across the plain and the mountain valley which we entered. A gradual ascent led to

808

a flat mountain col, across a longitudinal ridge.

809

810

The descent was not at all steep and led into the basin of the gYung-drung tsang-po. The

811

colors of the river valley, and the jagged walls of cliffs that sheltered it from the

812

southeast, reminded us of the mighty ranges of westernmost Tibet. We forded the river

813

opposite a basalt massif with a *mani* inscription on it. The water reached the

814

stirrups and the current was swift. Along its banks the river was still frozen hard, but

815

in the middle it was already flowing free of ice. It was extremely difficult to make the

816

animals plunge into ice-cold water and then again make them climb the slippery surface

817

of ice. The opposite bank of the river was covered by swamps and we had to keep close to

818

the rocks. We halted for the night on the left bank of the gYung-drung tsang-po which

819

had its source in the lake Mu-chyu tsho, lying toward the southwest and emptied into the

820

lake Kyer-chung tsho, which lay on the northwest. To the south of the river valley rose

821

a high, rocky ridge. According to information received from the inhabitants there is

822

another route south of the lake Mu-chyu tsho. The place where we were camping for the

823

night bore the name of gYung-drung kong-ma or "The Upper gYung-drung." The

824

distance from gYung-drung kong-ma to Lug-thang is about seventeen miles. We again found

825

some arrow heads of the same shape as those of Do-ring, Ratri, and Ching-kar.

826

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827

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829

**March 27, 1928**

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830

831

March 27. We were again delayed with our caravan and were only able to start at seven

832

o'clock. For some time we followed the valley of the gYung-drung chu and then

833

ascended a sandy spur. Toward the south we suddenly beheld a grandiose panorama. Mighty

834

rocky ridges stood shrouded in a deep violet veil; then suddenly the rays of the rising

835

sun struck it and the whole mass of rocks sparkled with red, crimson, and purple colors.

836

The layers of sand at the foot of the mountains lit with a fiery red and golden yellow.

837

The undulating hilly uplands of northern Tibet were left behind and we entered another

838

country, a region of ranges and mountain valleys, forming the northern buttresses of the

839

mighty Trans-Himalayas.

840

841

We descended a broad, gravel plain that stretched north of the range. This plain also

842

represented a dry sea bottom, as the presence of fossils demonstrated. On the plain we

843

met the first yak caravan carrying barley, which was bound for the distant encampments

844

situated on the northern upland. The traders told us that until now the passes south of

845

Shentsa dzong had been blocked by snow and all the caravans from the Tsang Province had

846

to wait on the southern side of the mountains. At present the snow was rapidly melting

847

and a passage with loaded animals was possible. It was welcome news for us, for we were

848

a little worried by the condition of the route over the high mountain passes of the

849

Trans-Himalayas, north of Saga dzong.

850

851

On crossing the valley in a southwesterly direction, we entered a mountain gorge, walled

852

on either side by cliffs and eroded rocks. A small mountain stream flowed through it and

853

directed its course southward. The surrounding landscape was of exceptional grandeur.

854

Mighty faults, signs of gigantic moves of the earth's crust, formed a fantastic

855

design on the rocky walls that sheltered the narrow gorge. After an eighteen-mile march

856

we pitched camp on a broad plain, surrounded by low hills. A terrific windstorm started

857

to blow soon after we had pitched our tents. Thick clouds of dust enveloped the mountain

858

tops and everyone was forced to remain inside his tent holding the tent pole, which

859

swung in all directions in imminent danger of breaking down with the tent. Tent ropes

860

flew in all directions and tent pegs were carried about the camp with a rattling noise.

861

862

I had an unpleasant experience with my Tibetan dog Kadru. The dog started chasing a herd

863

of goats, and succeeded in killing one. The owner came to the camp and complained and I

864

had to pay one *ngü-sang* for the damage. These Tibetan wolfhounds are known for

865

their bad manners and very often attack goats, sheep, and even domestic yaks.

866

867

The storm abated toward evening and the night was quiet and warm, the thermometer

868

registering -2°C.

869

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871

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872

**March 28, 1928** [Shentsa dzong](/#m=9/30.93252/88.70794&l=Gs&p=269/o)

873

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875

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876

March 28. We started early this morning in order to reach Shentsa dzong early in the

877

day. After following the steadily rising valley for about two hours, we reached the

878

Dig-pa La. From the summit of the pass (17,600 feet) we obtained a unique view of the

879

high snow massif of Shentsa Jyel-khang, towering on the southwest of the broad plain

880

of Shentsa. One of the numerous snow-capped peaks of the range rose to the height of

881

22,000 feet. The vast plain on which the

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882

dzong

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883

was situated was clearly visible as far as the lake Chyaring tsho, on the northwest of

884

the plain. The descent from the pass was very steep and we had to dismount and walk

885

the whole distance.

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886

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887

On the southern slope of the ridge we saw Tibetan gazelles and several

888

*kyangs*

889

. The countryside was free from snow, which lay only in ravines and on the northern

890

slopes of the mountains.

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891

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892

Before reaching the village of Shentsa, we crossed the frozen Shentsa chu, flowing in

893

several narrow channels.

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894

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895

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896

897

Shentsa dzong is the administrative center of a large province stretching north of the

898

Trans-Himalayas and including in its territory most of the great salt lakes of the

899

Tibetan upland. The village is a motley collection of some sixty half-ruined structures

900

of sun-dried bricks with roofs covered with sod, and there were heaps of refuse in front

901

of the houses. The houses were formerly whitewashed but apparently for many years no

902

paint had been applied to the walls with the result that they were of a dirty gray

903

color. In the center of the place rose the only two-storied building—the

904

*dzong*

905

or official residence of the local Governors, both of whom were away in Lhasa. As is

906

customary, this official structure was painted yellow and had

907

*jyal-tsen*

908

or black religious banners on its four corners.

909

910

The streets of the village were, as usual, extremely filthy but thanks to the dry, cold

911

air, the refuse heaps were still frozen. The population consisted of some fifty

912

inhabitants, many of whom were in a state of utter poverty. There was no cultivation and

913

all the grain and

914

*tsam-pa*

915

supply was brought at a considerable yearly expense from the Brahmaputra Valley. The

916

Governors, who were absent in Lhasa, were replaced by two

917

*ku-tshap (sku-tshab)*

918

or delegates, their personal servants, who acted as governors in their absence, but were

919

afraid to take any responsibility upon themselves.

920

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922

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923

We pitched our camp outside the village and soon received the visit of the two

924

officials.

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925

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926

One of the two men wore a pair of huge Chinese spectacles. He was a local nomad with

927

some smattering of Lhasa Tibetan. His colleague was a plain headman with but little

928

dignity about him. They presented us with the usual ceremonial scarf and informed us

929

that the passport in which our future route was outlined had been received from Lhasa.

930

We had had secret hopes of being able to proceed by one of the many mountain routes

931

across the Trans-Himalayas south of Shentsa dzong. Now that the route was clearly

932

indicated in the document, we had to follow the circuit route which would be

933

nevertheless highly instructive. The route indicated in the passport was Shentsa

934

dzong-Saga dzong-Shekar dzong-Kampa dzong-Sikkim. Our outgoing Tibetan frontier outpost

935

on the Sikkim frontier was Kampa dzong, from which place we would probably have to

936

travel

937

*via*

938

Lachen to Gangtok.

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939

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940

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941

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942

The two officials informed us that all of the caravan animals needed for our transport

943

were ready and that we could start the next day. We had to obtain a supply of grain to

944

last until Saga dzong, for there was but little hope of obtaining sufficient grain along

945

the route, which passed through a thinly populated region. After great exertions we

946

succeeded in collecting eleven bags of barley and dry peas, each bag costing the

947

exorbitant price of fifteen

948

*ngü-sangs*

949

. We were badly in need of butter and were glad to obtain four pounds of it and one

950

piece of

951

*poram*

952

or barley sugar.

953

954

We were to follow a route skirting the southern shores of lakes Chyaring tsho, Ngantse

955

tsho, and Dangra yum-tsho. From Chok-chu, a place situated west of Dangra yum-tsho, we

956

would have to turn southward and cross the high Trans-Himalayas to Saga dzong. This was

957

a difficult route, considering the poor state of our animals and our rapidly diminishing

958

funds.

959

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960

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961

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962

**March 29, 1928**

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963

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964

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965

March 29. All night loud shouts of herdsmen announced the arrival of parties of pack

966

yaks. Long strings of yaks formed a black wall around the camp.

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967

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968

We started at seven o'clock and having skirted a limestone spur northwest of the

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969

dzong

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970

, headed across the gravel plain toward the southwestern shore of the Chyaring tsho

971

Lake. The plain was watered by the Tag-lung tsang-po, a river that emptied into the

972

Chyaring tsho. We found the river still frozen hard and had no difficulty in crossing

973

it. The trail crossed several old moraines descending toward the lake and, ascending a

974

low spur, entered into a highly intersected mountain region immediately south of the

975

lake. The trail climbed the crest of the range, towering above the lake shore, which

976

lay about three hundred feet below the trail.

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977

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980

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981

We crossed a low pass, the Laptse nagri (the Laptse na-mo La of Sir Henry Hayden's map),

982

from which we obtained a fine view of the lake and the surrounding country. The

983

mountains were close to the lake shore, which occupied a depression some forty miles

984

long with an elevation of 15,448 feet. At this time of the year the lake was still

985

covered with a crust of ice, except its southwest corner, which with its dark blue

986

surface formed a sharp contrast to the white expanse of ice on the lake.

987

988

While descending from the pass, we met a group of horsemen escorting four men on foot

989

with their hands tied behind their backs. These were robbers who had recently murdered a

990

party of traders and were now being taken by the local tribal militia to the

991

*dzong*

992

. One of the militia told us the story of the outrage. The traders were staying for the

993

night in a nomad tent, and while asleep, were brutally murdered with swords by the

994

nomads of the locality. All their goods were taken away. The robbers were unable to keep

995

the affair secret and the brigandage was discovered. The local authorities dispatched a

996

detachment of militia to arrest the murderers. This was soon accomplished and the

997

criminals were sent to the

998

*dzong*

999

to suffer an adequate punishment. Such cases were reported to take place frequently

1000

along the route, for the nomads easily and rapidly turned into robbers. The usual

1001

victims are traders and this accounts for the fact that all of the rich caravans have an

1002

armed escort.

1003

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1004

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1005

We camped for the night at the foot of a spur situated to the southwest of a valley open

1006

toward the Chyaring tsho. The place, which was a relay station for dispatch riders, was

1007

called Ngan-dzom and was fifteen miles from Shentsa dzong. It was famous for strong

1008

winds. This reputation was soon justified for about noon a southwest wind started to

1009

blow and turned into a real storm with clouds of sand and loess dust blowing across the

1010

valley toward the lake. Sir Henry Hayden camped on the same place during his exploration

1011

in 1922.

1012

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1014

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1015

**March 30, 1928** [Kar-tsang](/#m=9/30.92535/88.22176&l=Gs&p=271/o)

1016

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1018

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1019

March 30. The trail followed a small valley occupied by several nomad encampments.

1020

Herds of domestic yaks and flocks of sheep were seen grazing in mountain glens and on

1021

the slopes of the mountains. From the Tsung La, a mountain pass of some seventeen

1022

thousand feet, we obtained a fine view of the snow massif Shentsa Jyel-khang, which

1023

stood dominating the landscape on the southeast.

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1024

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1025

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1026

Descending from the pass, the path followed for about three miles the crest of a range

1027

stretching westward, and then crossed two more ridges and entered the basin of the

1028

lake Sera tsho, a small lake about half a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad,

1029

situated in a flat depression amid the surrounding mountains. Numerous marine fossils

1030

were found on the shores of the lake.

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1031

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1032

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1033

e26a26	admin	2026-07-18 11:57:28
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1034

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The route followed the northern shore of the lake and then entered a broad gorge

1036

surrounded by limestone hills. We camped on a plain watered by the Paro tsang-po, a

1037

river that empties into the Chyaring tsho. The place of our new camp was called

1038

Kar-tsang. The plain had a rather large population and herds of domestic yaks and horses

1039

were grazing at the foot of the surrounding hills. As usual on the Tibetan uplands, the

1040

best grazing lay along the foot of the mountains.

1041

1042

At Kar-tsang, we received an unexpected reception. Eight big tents were erected and two

1043

hundred and sixty yaks and twenty riding horses were held ready for our expedition. A

1044

large crowd was in attendance. On inquiry as to the cause for such a reception, we were

1045

told that the messenger from Shentsa who brought the official letter announcing our

1046

arrival, had stated that we were in need of eight big tents on each stage and three

1047

hundred pack animals!

1048

1049

Toward evening our camp was visited by traveling singers, a man and a woman with a

1050

child. The man played on a stringed instrument, and the woman sang, while the child

1051

danced.

1052

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1055

**March 31, 1928**

1056

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1057

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1058

March 31. A fine morning, warm and windless. We crossed the Kar-tsang Plain toward the

1059

Paro tsang-po, which flowed along the foot of the hills, forming the western rim of the

1060

plain. After crossing the river, the trail entered a narrow mountain valley and ascended

1061

toward a low col, called the Lam-lung La. The summit of the pass was crowned with

1062

several stone cairns with the usual multicolored prayer flags. The descent was gradual

1063

and led into a broad plain surrounded by low, limestone ridges. On some of the

1064

loess-covered patches of ground we found grass well preserved under the snow.

1065

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1066

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1068

The descent was made exceptionally trying by the bitter cold, western wind that blew

1069

across the plain and with terrific force struck the western slope of the pass. The

1070

horizon was covered by thick clouds of loess dust, and a yellowish mist hid the

1071

outlines of the mountains that rose south and west of the plain.

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1073

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1074

The camp was prepared on a very bad spot, open to all winds, but there was no

1075

possibility of transferring it to another place. The spot bore the name of Chu tra-ri

1076

and was known for its muddy and brackish water.

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1077

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1081

1082

**April 1, 1928** [Mur-chen](/#m=9/30.97522/87.62339&l=Gs&p=273/o)

1083

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1085

April 1. We decided to make a double march this day, that is, to combine two short

1086

stages and to change yaks and horses at the end of the first stage. We started early, at

1087

six o'clock and crossed the Chu tra-ri Plain, heading southwest. The track was even and

1088

good. After some twelve miles over a gravel and loess-covered plain, we halted for an

1089

hour at a nomad encampment to change the pack yaks and riding horses. So far we

1090

continued to follow the route of Sir Henry Hayden in 1922. From Gon-khyok, the name of

1091

the encampment, our route left his and struck the southern shore of the lake Phung-pa

1092

tsho, whereas the route of the British explorer skirted the northern shore of the same

1093

lake.

1094

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1095

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1096

The change of pack animals was effected with remarkable quickness and in about an hour

1097

the caravan column was again in marching order.

e26a26	admin	2026-07-18 11:57:28
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1098

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The trail continued across a series of sandy ridges. On the northern and western

1100

horizon rose high, snow-capped latitudinal ranges. After another eleven miles, we

1101

camped on the southeastern shore of the lake Phung-pa tsho, the Daru tsho of Nain

1102

Singh and the Murchu tsho of Sven Hedin. Nain Singh passed north of the lake and Dr.

1103

Sven Hedin passed west of it. Sir Henry Hayden passed the lake along its northeastern

1104

shore on the way to Wang-po on the northern shores of the Dangra yum-tsho. The

1105

Phung-pa tsho is connected by a very narrow channel with another small lake lying west

1106

of Phung-pa tsho, and called Majyar tsho. Both lakes were frozen and it was impossible

1107

to ascertain whether there was any flow from one lake into the other. The place of the

1108

camp was called Mur-chen and was inhabited by nomads all the year round. The local

1109

nomads are a little better off and possess fine herds of yaks and horses. The yaks

1110

particularly struck us as being much larger and stronger than the animals we saw at

1111

Nag-chu-ka or at other places of the Nag-tshang district.

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1113

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1114

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1117

**April 2, 1928** [Chi-buk de-nga](/#m=9/30.85154/87.26169&l=Gs&p=274/o)

1118

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1119

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1120

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1121

April 2. We started early again, in order to reach the shores of the Ngantse tsho on

1122

the same day. The track crossed the plain of Mur-chen and then led across a succession

1123

of low, sandy ridges that fell steeply toward the Majyar tsho. The weather, which was

1124

sunny and fine in the early morning, turned into a bad snowstorm, and progress was

1125

made difficult by biting wind and wet snow. Our local guide, who was unable to see the

1126

track ahead of him, lost his way and we wandered for some time amid the howling of the

1127

storm until the wind and snow suddenly abated and the dense white fog that surrounded

1128

the caravan column lifted. We found ourselves standing on the crest of a mountain spur

1129

stretching toward the Majyar tsho. From this place we easily found our way into a

1130

narrow, sheltered valley, where our next stage was situated, a group of encampments

1131

called Pong-chen. We found all the relay animals ready and were able to continue our

1132

route at once.

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1133

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1134

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1136

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1137

A narrow valley led toward the Pong-chen La, a pass with an elevation of 17,621 feet.

1138

The ascent was very steep and stony. Our poor camels had an exceptionally hard time on

1139

sharp stones. Unfortunately, a cold, western wind and wet snow started again soon after

1140

we had reached the summit of the pass and the storm continued until we had descended

1141

into a broad plain in which lay the lake Ngantse tsho, which was clearly seen from the

1142

pass.

1143

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1144

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1145

On the pass we crossed the route followed by Sven Hedin on his way to the Brahmaputra

1146

Valley. We camped near the house of a local headman, a miserable stone structure with

1147

filthy courtyard. The place bore the name of Chi-buk de-nga. Game was rather plentiful

1148

in the plain. We observed herds of

1149

*kyangs*

1150

, gazelles, and flocks of snow cocks. Toward the south of the plain rose several

1151

snow-capped peaks of an unknown range. The basin of the Ngantse tsho represents a vast

1152

plain covered with grass land, swampy in many places. Like most of the lakes of the

1153

Tibetan highlands, the Ngantse tsho has considerably contracted in size and Sir Henry

1154

Hayden thinks that the three lakes, Phung-pa, Majyar, and Ngantse once formed one much

1155

larger lake, filling the whole of the vast valley. The lake was thoroughly studied by

1156

Sven Hedin during his memorable journey in January, 1907.

1157

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1158

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1159

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1160

**April 3, 1928**

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1161

1162

April 3. The track crossed the plain south of the lake. After several hours' march

1163

across the gravel and loess-covered plain, we camped for the night at the foot of a low,

1164

sandy ridge not far from the southwestern shores of the lake. It was called

1165

Nga-tam-chen, and has a small population of nomads living in tents, pitched at the foot

1166

of the hills. The local population has almost no knowledge whatsoever of the neighboring

1167

regions. They know about Nag-tshang to the east and Chok-chu to the west. An old man

1168

remembered two Europeans who had visited the northern shores of the lake, probably Dr.

1169

Sven Hedin or Sir Henry Hayden. Our camels were the first that ever reached the place

1170

and created an unusual stir among the nomads. Crowds assembled to see the strange

1171

animals enter the camp.

1172

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1174

1175

**April 4, 1928** [Lo-wa na-mo](/#m=9/30.7318/86.59174&l=Gs&p=276/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1176

1177

April 4. We started at six o'clock notwithstanding some difficulties with relay

1178

horses which were placed at our disposal. Half of the animals were quite wild. The

1179

others hardly stood on their feet, being exhausted after a snowy winter. The morning was

1180

exceptionally warm, the thermometer registering +12°C. The horizon was hazy, and thick

1181

mist hung over the lake and the mountain chains to the east of it.

1182

1183

The trail which we were following led southwest across a complicated system of ridges.

1184

Toward the north lay a broad latitudinal valley. The caravan of pack yaks with the heavy

1185

baggage followed the valley. All of the horsemen with the detachment of yaks carrying

1186

the camping outfit, followed the much shorter route along the crest of the ridge. After

1187

seven miles' march, we reached a low pass with a summit marked by stone cairns and

1188

*mani*-walls. The view was wonderful and we could see the whole of the vast

1189

expanse of the holy Dangra yum-tsho, one of the most beautiful lakes of the Tibetan

1190

highlands. Straight toward the south rose the imposing snow-capped meridional range of

1191

Tarkö La-jyap or Tarkö kang-ri. Dr. Sven Hedin has proved that the range should be

1192

considered as an isolated massif. The range continued north as far as the gap in the

1193

ridge, through which passed the route to Chok-chu. From the summit of the pass, the

1194

track turned southward, and suddenly, as is often the case with Tibetan roads, became a

1195

broad highway lined on either side by *mani*-walls. The ground was sandy and soft

1196

and our animals rapidly trotted toward a group of nomad encampments, which were said to

1197

be our destination.

1198

1199

At the foot of the pass a narrow strip of swamps had to be crossed. The camp was pitched

1200

for us on a small square patch of level ground a mile distant from the southwestern

1201

shore of the lake. The place was called Lo-wa na-mo and was the seat of a local headman,

1202

an imposing man with very civil manners.

1203

1204

The Dangra yum-tsho, which was first discovered by Nain Singh during his splendid

1205

journey from Ladak to southwestern Tibet and Assam in 1873-75, is forty-five miles in

1206

length by twenty-five in breadth at its widest part. This lake has also considerably

1207

contracted in size. The existing erosive terraces clearly delineate its former large

1208

basin. Nain Singh was of the opinion that the smaller lake of Thang-yung to the north

1209

formed one lake with the Dangra yum-tsho. The lake receives a large volume of fresh

1210

water from the Tarkö tsang-po, a river that flows in a terraced channel, with terraces

1211

twenty-five to thirty meters high. A probable explanation of these terraces is that the

1212

contraction of the lake resulted in a contraction of rivers, which deepened their

1213

course.

1214

1215

We were the first Europeans who actually camped on the southern shores of the lake.

1216

During his expedition of 1907, Dr. Sven Hedin reached a point three days' journey

1217

south of the lake, where he was stopped by local nomads acting under orders of higher

1218

authorities. Nain Singh, who discovered the lake, visited only its northern shore at a

1219

place called Wang-po (dBang-po).

1220

1221

The valley of Wang-po has a sedentary population. The place being somewhat lower than

1222

the surrounding uplands, barley is cultivated. According to a local tradition, recorded

1223

by the Pandit, many decades ago the valley of Wang-po was a powerful kingdom. The local

1224

chief had his residence at Khyung dzong, the ruins of which are still visible. He was

1225

overcome by the king of Lhasa. In 1921 Wang-po was visited by Sir Henry Hayden, engaged

1226

in geological survey work for the Tibetan Government. According to Nain Singh, the

1227

population of Wang-po belonged to the Bön-po sect. The population to the south of the

1228

lake was Buddhist.

1229

1230

Lo-wa na-mo, where we were camping, was a group of nomad encampments. Some of the

1231

families lived there permanently, and the tents were encircled by walls made of stones

1232

and sod to protect them from the spring and winter gales. There were no traces of

1233

cultivation. Some of the men present in the camp knew well the routes to the Tsang

1234

Province, by which Dr. Sven Hedin tried to approach the lake. I even found a man who had

1235

been to Nepal, and had a smattering of Hindustani.

1236

1237

It was difficult to gain reliable information about routes to Saga dzong. In our Lhasan

1238

passport, it was stated that the authorities of Shentsa dzong were supposed to give us

1239

transport until Saga dzong, but we soon discovered that the two representatives of the

1240

*dzong* knew nothing about the route to Saga and were planning to leave us at

1241

Chok-chu. The local headman told us that he was not at all sure that caravan animals

1242

were ready for us at Chok-chu and we therefore resolved to dispatch one of the Shentsa

1243

representatives to Chok-chu the same evening to make all the necessary arrangements. He

1244

rode off on a fresh horse, accompanied by a local guide. The men had received

1245

instructions to ride in all haste and to arrange for another representative from

1246

Chok-chu to accompany us to Saga dzong.

1247

1248

I knew that a southern route branched off from Lo-wa na-mo to Saga dzong and crossed the

1249

Tarkö La, lying to the southwest of the lake. This route was shorter by ten days and had

1250

the great advantage of passing through a populated region. It was officially known under

1251

the name of lho-lam or the southern highway, and the nomads along the route always kept

1252

ready a certain number of pack yaks and riding horses for the use of the governmental

1253

ula or relay system. I tried hard to persuade the local headman to send us by this

1254

southern route, which offered great advantages to us and to him, as he would have to

1255

supply us with animals only for one stage. He agreed that this would be the right

1256

solution for both parties but as he had direct orders from the authorities of Nag-tshang

1257

to send us to Chok-chu, he was quite unable to change our route. He was inexorable in

1258

his position and although I pressed him hard, he would not give up his decision to send

1259

us by another route.

1260

1261

The day continued to be calm and warm, the thermometer registering +13° at two

1262

o'clock. We observed flocks of wild geese and teals on the numerous water pools in

1263

the swamps east of the camp. It was the first spring-like day and the surrounding

1264

mountains were already assuming that deep blue and purple coloring of the mountainous

1265

regions of inner Asia in springtime.

1266

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1267

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1268

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1269

**April 5, 1928**

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1270

1271

April 5. Again a fine and wonderfully clear day. We started soon after the rising sun

1272

had illumined the snow peaks of the Tarkö kang-ri. It was an unforgettable spectacle, a

1273

foretaste of the grand mountain scenery of the Trans-Himalayas. The track followed the

1274

southern shore of the lake. The ground was sandy and ravines intersected the plain south

1275

of the lake. The Tarkö tsang-po, which empties into the lake, was just breaking up and

1276

was covered by masses of floating ice, which struck and cut the animals' legs. The

1277

camels had a hard time at the river. They have a natural aversion to water and we had

1278

great difficulty in bringing them safely across the swift stream. On the opposite bank

1279

of the river lay a vast plateau, stretching at the foot of the Tarkö kang-ri massif and

1280

covered with juniper, the first shrub we had seen in six months of travel over Tibetan

1281

highlands.

1282

1283

The track crossed the plateau in a northwesterly direction. We camped for the night at

1284

the foot of the range on the southwestern shore of the lake. A clear stream of water

1285

descending from the mountain side, fed by glaciers and thawing snows, supplied the

1286

drinking water for the caravan. The camels enjoyed the salty water of the lake. The site

1287

of the camp was known under the name of Thu-gu lap-tse, and its chief defect as a

1288

halting place for caravans was the total absence of grass, except juniper shrubs which

1289

were good for camels, but not for horses. The day was exceptionally warm and the

1290

thermometer registered +28°C. We sat until late into the evening, admiring the unique

1291

panorama of the lake and the surrounding mountains, lit by the rays of the setting sun.

1292

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1293

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1294

1295

**April 6, 1928** [Chumgo mar-po](/#m=9/30.95678/86.33511&l=Gs&p=278/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1296

1297

April 6. We broke camp very early, at six o'clock, for the stage had to be a long

1298

one. The track followed the southwestern shore of the lake. At some places it was

1299

difficult going, especially for camels, as the trail climbed rocky cornices hanging

1300

above the lake and was so narrow that the loads had to be taken down and carried by the

1301

men, while the caravan animals were led, one by one. This all delayed us. To the west

1302

rose the northern continuation of the Tarkö kang-ri and the trail led over a vast, sandy

1303

slope, gradually descending toward the lake. After some four miles, we passed a small

1304

lake about a quarter of a mile long. Dark clouds enveloped the snow peaks of the Tarkö

1305

Mountains, and about noon a violent western wind with wet snow began to blow, making our

1306

progress very trying. We halted for the night in a high mountain valley with scanty

1307

grass, called Chumgo mar-po. Eleven tents were pitched for our use and the local people

1308

assured us that they had spent seven days on this spot, waiting for us. The yak caravan

1309

arrived only late at night and we sat a long time on our saddles, which were placed on

1310

the ground, while the storm howled around us.

1311

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1313

1314

**April 7, 1928** [Chok-chu](/#m=9/30.9814/86.21285&l=Gs&p=279/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1315

1316

April 7. A dull day with heavy gray clouds on the horizon. The trail crossed the low,

1317

sandy ridge west of the valley of Chumgo mar-po and then led across a succession of

1318

sandy ridges, heading northwest. After a three hours' march, we reached a vast

1319

plain, and halted on the shores of a small lake. Here the headmen of Chok-chu had

1320

prepared a camp and brought pack animals. We seldom saw such degenerate types, robbers

1321

by nature, and liars by conviction. The chief headman, an indescribable creature,

1322

assured us that they had prepared everything for us along the route to Nga-ri dzong on

1323

the Ladak route, but that they had no information about the route to Saga dzong, by

1324

which we were now to travel.

1325

1326

The route to Ladak was a *jya-lam* or highway, but that to Saga was only a local

1327

trail. According to the headmen, it was very wrong of the *De-wa-shung* to send

1328

us to Chok-chu for there was no *ula* from there to Saga. We should have to wait

1329

for the arrival of the Tarkö *garpön* who would decide about the route to Saga. I

1330

had a sharp conversation with the headmen, and told them that we would start tomorrow

1331

and that they would have to accompany us to get animals on the next stage, and that

1332

unless this was properly done, we would have to complain about them to Lhasa. I added

1333

that their professed ignorance of the route was just an excuse for they were bound to

1334

know the road to the *dzong*, because Chok-chu paid the annual tax to Saga dzong.

1335

After much talking and arguing, the headmen finally agreed to escort us to the Tarkö

1336

*garpön*. I tried to get some information about the local country, but the nomads

1337

had a very limited knowledge of it and I succeeded in finding only a single old woman

1338

who remembered having been on pilgrimage some thirty years ago to the Lake Manasarowar

1339

and the holy places on the Nepal border.

1340

1341

The information she gave me was far from being reassuring. According to her the country

1342

to the south of Chok-chu was highly mountainous and Saga dzong was a big settlement,

1343

with a thriving trade and shops where Nepalese, Indian, and Lhasan goods were sold. I

1344

doubted the correctness of her statement, for Captain Rawling and Sven Hedin, who had

1345

visited the place, gave quite a different description of it. The old woman had probably

1346

visited the place during the annual autumn fair, and had seen Nepalese and Lhasan

1347

traders with their temporary shops, attending the fair.

1348

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1349

f0b340	Otterwiki Robot	2026-03-08 20:44:11
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1350

1351

**April 8, 1928** [Kang-ru](/#m=9/30.91504/86.15805&l=Gs&p=280/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
Impo

1352

1353

April 8. It was about seven o'clock when everything was in marching order and we

1354

were able to start the ride southward across the vast Chok-chu plain toward the mountain

1355

some six miles distant from our present camp. Our conversation of yesterday probably had

1356

some effect on the headmen, for they all appeared in the morning and escorted us

1357

personally. According to them, there were two routes to Saga dzong, one through Tarkö,

1358

the other across the high Sangmo Bertik Pass.

1359

1360

The vast latitudinal plain of Chok-chu is an intermontane plain for the most part

1361

covered by sand and loess, which is covered by good grazing during the summer months. On

1362

our way we passed herds of *kyangs* and Tibetan gazelles. The chief headman rode

1363

ahead of us to inform the *garpön* of our coming. After a two hours' ride, we

1364

were suddenly stopped by the headmen at a group of tents not far from the foot of the

1365

mountains. The headmen explained their action by the fact that the *garpön* had

1366

sent a messenger asking us to stay there for one day, as he was coming personally to see

1367

us.

1368

1369

The *garpön* of Tarkö arrived in the afternoon. He was a young man of about

1370

thirty, tall and well built. He was attired in the usual *puru* coat of the

1371

wealthier class, and wore a Tibetan fur cap, bound with a red turban, following the

1372

Kham-pa fashion. A long *sho-lang*, or saber, ornamented with turquoise and

1373

coral, was fixed to his saddle. A white tent with ornaments sewn on it was pitched

1374

outside our camp and was used as temporary headquarters for the district chief.

1375

1376

A preliminary conference was held by the *garpön* with the local headmen and our

1377

Tibetan guide. After an hour, the *garpön* requested to see our Lhasan passport

1378

and announced his desire to visit us. He was received in my tent and expressed his deep

1379

regret that we had been sent by the present route and thus delayed by three days.

1380

According to him, the proper route for us was the "southern route" which

1381

started from Lo-wa na-mo on the southern shore of the Dangra yum-tsho. This route

1382

crossed the Tarkö La and led to the headquarters of the *garpön*, a place called

1383

Tarkö La-jyap. From there it went across the Pendong La, a pass situated in the same

1384

range as the Dong-chen La, to the Nak-po kondro La, situated in the main range of the

1385

Trans-Himalayas east of the Sangmo Bertik Pass. The range in which the pass is situated

1386

bears the name of Nak-po kondro kang-ri, the Nak-po gongrong gang-ri of Sven Hedin's

1387

map.

1388

1389

As we were already in Chok-chu, the *garpön* thought it advisable to let us go by

1390

the Sangmo route, which crossed on its way to Saga the following passes: the Dong-chen

1391

La, the Sangmo La, the Gyegong La and the Tsuk-chung La. This route had been traversed

1392

and surveyed by Dr. Sven Hedin in 1907. We at once perceived that the real object of the

1393

*garpön* was to send us through the territory of his neighbor chief, the headman

1394

of Bum-pa chang-ra (the Bong-ba of Sven Hedin's map), and thus escape the necessity

1395

of furnishing us with caravan animals and other supplies along a difficult and deserted

1396

mountain route. I succeeded in making him promise to accompany us personally to the

1397

encampment of the next headman and arrange with the latter about caravan animals. The

1398

*garpön* hinted that our passport was granted from Lhasa and we therefore had the

1399

right to travel through the territory subject to the Government, whereas his territory

1400

was church land.

1401

1402

The location of our camp was known under the name of Kang-ru. The pack animals arrived

1403

in small groups driven by wild looking fellows, who could hardly understand each other,

1404

speaking different nomad dialects. Our Lhasa Tibetans had great difficulty in making

1405

themselves understood by the local population.

1406

1407

The Chang-pas of the Trans-Himalayas strike the traveler as being of primitive and

1408

inferior physique. The hard life at high altitudes, the grazing valleys of the northern

1409

slopes of the Trans-Himalayas having an average elevation of sixteen thousand to

1410

seventeen thousand feet, affected the physique and intelligence of the nomads. They are

1411

a wild, dirty looking crowd with long, matted hair that blows out in the wind. The local

1412

nomads are round-headed with prominent cheek bones. We very often observed primitive

1413

types with retreating foreheads and projecting glabella. The lips are of medium

1414

thickness. Most of the men are of slender build with rather weak limbs and sunken

1415

chests. The hair growth is scant and I don't remember having seen bearded males. The

1416

hair when cropped is woolly. The laymen usually wear their hair plaited in many small

1417

tresses that hang over the forehead and down the back. The families are small and

1418

children are seldom seen in encampments. There is a clear impression that the population

1419

steadily decreases. Our doctor observed frequent cases of rachitis, especially common

1420

among the children, and scurvy among the adults. Scorbutic conditions of gums are almost

1421

general.

1422

1423

The costume consists of the usual sheepskin coat, worn on the bare body, and the usual

1424

nomad boots, made of homespun cloth and held under the knee by a garter. Head coverings

1425

are seldom used. In winter the fur-lined bonnet is commonly worn. The men carry swords

1426

and matchlocks. Modern magazine rifles are seldom seen in the possession of the nomads.

1427

The population is said to be addicted to brigandage and such was the impression of Dr.

1428

Sven Hedin. During our passage through the district we did not encounter any robber

1429

bands, although the existence of a tribal organization of robbers was quite possible in

1430

those out-of-the-way places.

1431

1432

The Trans-Himalayan nomads dwell in the usual black tents and live on the produce of

1433

their herds, which consist mostly of sheep and yaks. Horses are kept only by well-to-do

1434

families. The summer months are usually spent in some of the valleys of the

1435

Trans-Himalayas, but in winter the cattle are driven to the north, where there is less

1436

snow and grazing is better.

1437

1438

On the northern uplands, the mountain valleys and low hills are covered by sand and

1439

loess and afford good grazing grounds, whereas the valleys of the Trans-Himalayas are

1440

mostly covered with detritus and the grass is scant, even after the period of summer

1441

rains. During our march through the Trans-Himalayas we experienced great difficulties in

1442

finding sufficient pastures for our animals. Most of the country was completely barren

1443

and the scant level patches of ground were covered by dead and weathered grass.

1444

1445

It was by no means an easy country to cross, not only because of the natural obstacles,

1446

high mountain passes, and barren valleys, but chiefly because of the strange

1447

distribution of districts, which were separated from each other by strips of land

1448

belonging to other districts in a most perplexing way. Chok-chu belongs to Nag-tshang

1449

but pays its tax to Saga dzong. Kang-ru and the mountain country south of it are under

1450

the jurisdiction of the Tarkö *garpön*, who is appointed by the Tashi-lhun-po

1451

labrang. Nam-chen and Nga-mo dang-khang on the southern shore of the Ting-ri lam-tsho

1452

are again under Nag-tshang dzong, whereas the next stage, Le-kar and Lap-sa-ru, belong

1453

to the Bum-pa chang-ra Province and are under the jurisdiction of Nga-ri dzong. The

1454

valleys of Tsuk-chen and Tsuk-chung belong to Saga dzong.

1455

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1456

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1457

1458

**April 9, 1928** [Nam-chen](/#m=9/30.7914/86.0457&l=Gs&p=281/o)

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1459

1460

April 9. This morning a thick, white mist hung over the valley of Chok-chu and hid the

1461

summits of the surrounding mountains. Snow had fallen during the night and the mountain

1462

slopes were covered with it. We crossed a sandy ridge and entered an intersected

1463

mountain country, a labyrinth of mountain valleys, a country which stretched as far as

1464

the Brahmaputra and represents one of the highest watersheds on earth. A mountain valley

1465

in which several encampments were situated ran southwest. A small but deep stream ran

1466

down the valley. The stream had already broken up. Only a narrow strip of ice remained

1467

along its banks. The bottom was muddy and we had difficulty in finding a suitable

1468

landing place. We tried several times and finally succeeded in finding a place which

1469

looked fordable. We followed a high mountain valley called Ugpa occupied by encampments.

1470

The *garpön* rode ahead of us, and we could see him galloping from tent to tent

1471

collecting animals for us.

1472

1473

On our way we were joined by a number of menservants of the *garpön*. All of the

1474

men had matchlocks slung across their shoulders and wore red turbans. Very few of them

1475

had been to Saga dzong and only a single man remembered having once visited the place.

1476

The valley we were following rose gradually until it suddenly broadened and formed a

1477

small circular valley, well sheltered by mountains. The place was called Nam-chen and a

1478

tent was prepared for us by the local headman. The poor man was in despair because he

1479

would have to supply us with caravan animals to Bum-pa chang-ra. According to him, we

1480

had to go by the southern route across the Nak-po kondro La. We left the

1481

*garpön* and the headman to decide the question of caravan animals between

1482

themselves. It was useless to sit and witness the arguing of the two men. After an hour

1483

the *garpön* and the headman emerged from their tent and came to tell us that the

1484

headman of Nam-chen had undertaken to transport the expedition to Bum-pa chang-ra and

1485

that the *garpön* would help him in this, supplying part of the pack animals.

1486

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1489

**April 10, 1928** [Nga-mo dang-khang](/#m=9/30.73029/85.81567&l=Gs&p=282/o)

1490

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1492

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1493

April 10. We delayed our start because of the pack animals, which reached the place

1494

only at about eight o'clock. Some of the new relay horses were so wild that they broke

1495

loose and stampeded and had to be brought back.

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1497

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1498

After leaving camp, we crossed a low pass called Mari-trang La (17,300 feet)

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1499

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1500

and

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1501

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1502

descended into a broad, sandy valley, the basin of the salt lake of Ting-ri lam-tsho

1503

(the Teri-namtsho of the maps). We skirted the southeastern shores of the lake. To the

1504

south of it rose basalt rocks. In former times the lake occupied a much larger basin,

1505

but in the course of time had contracted.

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1506

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1507

The plain southeast and south of the lake is the dry bottom of this former large lake.

1508

The lake is salt with layers of salt crust on its shores. We observed flocks of aquatic

1509

birds, turpans, teals, Brahmini ducks, and seagulls. The air was filled with their cries

1510

and flocks of wild geese were continually passing northward.

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1511

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1512

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1513

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1514

We found a camp pitched for us at a place called Nga-mo dang-khang, south of the lake in

1515

a valley inclosed by high rocky ranges from the south and open toward the lake. Toward

1516

the southwest rose the range of the Drong-chen La. On our way to the camp, we discovered

1517

that the official letter which was supposed to be traveling ahead of us, had reached the

1518

place only two hours before, for the messenger had spent the night in an encampment and

1519

thus delayed the delivery. It was almost impossible to obtain a new dispatch rider as

1520

the population had no horses. Toward evening the headman of Nam-chen secured another

1521

dispatch rider and sent him off with the letter toward Bum-pa.

1522

1523

The local population was exceptionally wild looking and had never seen a white man

1524

before. They wondered at our camels and insisted that we should give them some camel

1525

hair to be put into their charm boxes, for according to their belief, a hair from such a

1526

strange animal is sure to be a very potent talisman against illness and other danger.

1527

1528

Toward the northwest of the lake there is a monastery, Mendong gompa, belonging to the

1529

Karma-pa sect, which was visited by Dr. Sven Hedin during his passage in 1908. The

1530

afternoon was very warm, the thermometer registering +32°C.

1531

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1532

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1533

1534

**April 11, 1928** [At the foot of the Dong-chen Pass](/#m=9/30.63675/85.76476&l=Gs&p=283/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1535

1536

April 11. The promised caravan animals did not reach the camp and we had to ride on our

1537

own horses and leave Portniagin in charge of the baggage to await the arrival of all the

1538

pack animals. We crossed the valley in a southwesterly direction and entered a broad

1539

mountain gorge that led toward the Dong-chen Pass. After a ten-mile march, we camped at

1540

the foot of the pass. The population was extremely poor and we experienced great

1541

difficulty obtaining grain for our horses and camels. For the last three days we had

1542

obtained only one small bag of grain containing some fifteen pounds of barley. An order

1543

was given to feed the camels and horses with *tsam-pa* and to give to the camels

1544

an extra meal prepared of Chinese flour. It was absolutely necessary to reach Saga dzong

1545

and to replenish our stores. We had been cutting down the rations for men and animals

1546

and our supplies could only last for another seven days.

1547

1548

The amplitude in temperature was very wide. In the morning before sunrise the

1549

thermometer registered -13°C. and at two o'clock in the afternoon we had +40° in the

1550

sun.

1551

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1552

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1553

1554

**April 12, 1928** [Le-kar](/#m=9/30.54807/85.72588&l=Gs&p=284/o)

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1555

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1557

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1558

April 12. We started earlier than usual and after an hour's climb reached the top of

1559

the Dong-chen Pass. From the summit we beheld a unique panorama of the broad mountain

1560

valley southwest of the pass, sheltered by high eroded massifs of limestone.

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1561

e26a26	admin	2026-07-18 11:57:28
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1562

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1563

We followed the valley and soon reached the broad intermontane valley of the

1564

Sü-tsang-po, the Soma tsang-po of the maps. The camp was pitched on the left bank of

1565

the river, which flowed in several narrow channels. The Sü-tsang-po had its source

1566

somewhere in the Tarkö kangri and emptied into the lake Ting-ri lam-tsho. The river

1567

bed was flat and shallow but the river is said to carry a large volume of water in the

1568

period of floods. The local headman was unable to supply the required number of pack

1569

animals for all the pack yaks of the district had been driven to far distant pastures.

1570

He agreed to hire the yaks which came with us from Dang-khang. The place was known by

1571

the name of Le-kar and was still under the jurisdiction of Nag-tshang.

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1572

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1573

The local headman said that some three days southeast of Le-kar there was a wooded

1574

valley with plenty of game. The day was cloudy and warm, the thermometer registering

1575

+14°C. in the afternoon.

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1576

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1577

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1579

1580

**April 13, 1928** [Sangmo nga-dum](/#m=9/30.48078/85.46831&l=Gs&p=285/o)

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1581

1582

April 13. A fine but cold morning, with a temperature of -5°C. We crossed the plain in a

1583

south southwesterly direction and ascended a low, sandy spur. From here we traveled over

1584

an intersected country of valleys and gravel plains stretching at the foot of the range,

1585

south of the route. We had to halt at a place called Sangmo nga-dum, for the local

1586

headman had made no preparations to meet our caravan. There were no tents pitched, or

1587

fuel stored for us. We had to camp near a miserable tent of some shepherds and sent a

1588

man to the headman, requesting him to appear in person to discuss the situation and

1589

comply with the orders from Lhasa. Meanwhile we had to arrange our camp as best we

1590

could, collect fuel, and break the ice in the rivulet for drinking water.

1591

1592

The headman appeared with tents and fuel supplies only late in the afternoon, and

1593

professed utter ignorance of our coming. He did hear of an official letter announcing

1594

our arrival but thought it was not addressed to him but another headman, beyond the

1595

mountains! He could supply us with only thirty yaks, the remaining twenty we had to

1596

obtain from the Nam-chen headman, who fortunately agreed to go on for another two

1597

stages. The whole of the afternoon was spent in negotiations, which take a long time in

1598

Tibet and leave but little opportunity to attend to other needs of the caravan.

1599

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1601

1602

**April 14, 1928** [Near the Sangmo Pass](/#m=9/30.29079/85.30798&l=Gs&p=286/o)

c59c25	Otterwiki Robot	2026-01-14 13:28:31
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1603

1604

April 14. We made an early start in spite of the initial difficulty with pack animals.

1605

Fresh animals did not reach the camp in time, and Portniagin had to remain again with

1606

the baggage to wait for the yaks. At the last moment the Sangmo headman succeeded in

1607

supplying us with the required number of yaks.

1608

1609

Leaving the camp we followed the gorge that gradually ascended toward the high pass of

1610

Sangmo. Basalt massifs rose on either side. *Kyangs* grazed in the gorge on the

1611

scant grass that grew along the banks of the tiny mountain stream. The track went over

1612

hard, stony ground and our camels had a hard time walking over the surface.

1613

1614

After a six hours' march we pitched our camp in a sheltered valley close to a small

1615

brook of fresh water at the height of 17,600 feet. The yak caravan arrived only late at

1616

night. Gray clouds hid the summits of the mountains, and the Tibetans feared a snowfall

1617

during the night, that would render the pass difficult. The yak drivers assured us that

1618

some two weeks before the pass was completely blocked by snow, and that even now much

1619

snow lay on the summit. It was impossible to trust local informants, and we would have

1620

to find out the condition of the pass for ourselves. Everybody felt somewhat excited for

1621

the next day we would cross the highest pass on our way to Saga dzong.

1622

1623

Although the existence of a mighty mountain range north of the Tsang-po had been

1624

surmised by a number of explorers, and d'Anville (1733), Brian Hodgson and others

1625

had marked on their maps a problematic range that cut central Tibet from west to east,

1626

Dr. Sven Hedin was the first to survey the range and cross it by at least eight

1627

tremendous mountain passes with an average height of eighteen thousand feet, during his

1628

memorable journeys of 1906-8. The range forms the watershed between the Indian Ocean and

1629

the inclosed self-contained drainage region of inner Asia. To the west the

1630

Trans-Himalayas merge with the great Karakorum and it is left for a future explorer to

1631

investigate the meeting point of the two lofty ranges. The explorations of Dr. Sven

1632

Hedin have shown that the Trans-Himalayan system belongs to a comparatively recent

1633

geological period. The structure of its ranges shows that the formation of the system

1634

was attended by volcanic activity and the presence of numerous hot springs in the region

1635

proves the recent disturbances.

1636

1637

The Trans-Himalayas consist of a series of ranges, of which the principal one seems to

1638

be that in which the Sangmo La (19,094 feet), the Se-la La (18,064 feet), Khalamba La

1639

(17,200 feet), Go-ring La (19,587 feet), and the Shang-shung La are situated. The

1640

southern slopes of the ranges are cut by deep eroded valleys, traces of the activity of

1641

the Indian monsoon. The northern slopes merge with the undulating highlands of northern

1642

Tibet and receive much less precipitation than the southern slopes. On the northern

1643

side, the snow line lies at about eighteen hundred feet and glaciers never reach the

1644

bottom of the valleys.

1645

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1647

1648

**April 15, 1928** [Lap-sa-ru Plain](/#m=9/29.94928/85.2333&l=Gs&p=287/o)

1649

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1650

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1651

April 15. The night was quiet and snowless. We rose very early and by six o'clock the

1652

caravan column began its ascent to the pass. The northern slope was covered by huge

1653

bowlders, carried down the mountain slopes. In some places snow was still lying on the

1654

ground, and our horses frequently sank deep into it and had to be rescued.

1655

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1657

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1658

After three hours of continuous climbing we reached the summit of the pass (19,094

1659

feet). Several stone cairns stood by the roadside. From the summit a fine mountain

1660

view, of grandeur and severity, unfolded before us. A broad mountain gorge led to the

1661

south. To the west and east the view was closed by meridional ranges, descending

1662

toward the Lap-sa-ru Plain, south of which rose the snowy massif of the Kang-chung

1663

kang-ri. The day was dull and heavy clouds and mist hovered over the ranges. A steep

1664

but short descent, during which we all had to walk, brought us to the gorge. On the

1665

narrow trail our horses had a hard time among bowlders and pools of frozen water. Men

1666

and animals frequently slipped for there was hardly a place for one's foot.

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1667

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1668

While descending from the pass we observed a herd of wild yaks on one of the slopes.

1669

They were climbing a precipitous, almost vertical mountain slope, with each step sending

1670

stones and clouds of sand down into the gorge. For a moment, their dark silhouettes

1671

stood out on the transparent background of the Tibetan sky, then they disappeared behind

1672

the rocky wall. It was a picture of wild Tibet, which always haunts the imagination of

1673

anyone who has wandered across its unforgettable mountain expanses.

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1674

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After seven hours of hard marching over a heavy, stony road, we descended into a broad

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latitudinal valley belonging to the Bum-pa chang-ra district. To our great surprise,

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nothing was prepared, notwithstanding the official letter which was said to have gone

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ahead. We sent out a reconnoitering party, which rounded up a couple of individuals

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who said that they were herdsmen, but refused any assistance. Our Tibetan argued

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angrily with them and it was decided to keep the two men in camp, pending an inquiry

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into the situation. The two local men finally agreed to give some fuel, and to send

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out a messenger to the local headman requesting him to come at once. Everyone assured

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us that they had heard nothing about our coming.

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Happily the messenger who had carried the letters was among our yak drivers and he

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certified that the letter was safely and duly handed over to the local district chief or

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*yu-pön*

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. We witnessed a hot scene between the messenger and the local nomads. As a

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precautionary measure, we decided to keep all the pack yaks and horses from Sangmo

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nga-dum until the local headman had produced the required number of caravan animals. The

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drivers protested but had to submit, for they understood our predicament.

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The day was warm, notwithstanding the fact that the valley was inclosed on all sides by

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snow-capped mountains, with glaciers descending comparatively low into the valley. Some

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two and a half miles south of our camp lay the small salt lake of Lap-chung tsho. In the

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evening the setting sun lit the snows of the mountains, and the whole scenery plunged

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into a deep purple glow. The

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*yu-pön*

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did not arrive this evening and it looked as if we would have to stay a couple of days

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in the valley and search for the headman, who was trying to avoid us. Our supplies were

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coming to an end and it was imperative to reach Saga dzong.

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**April 16, 1928**

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April 16. A sunny, warm day. We were forced to stay the whole day and wait for the

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headman. The drivers from Sangmo tried several times to get away with their animals, but

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our guards prevented them from going back. We told the people that we would complain to

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the officials in the *dzong* about such a delay and open disregard of orders from

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Lhasa. The local people finally agreed to supply us with all the yaks in the valley and

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thus enable us to start the next day. We were to receive thirty yaks from them and the

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rest of the animals would have to be supplied by the Sangmo drivers. After three hours

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of negotiations a settlement was reached and we were assured of starting the following

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day. We also arranged with the owners of our relay horses to accompany us to Saga dzong

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and gave them extra pay for their services. The men were completely satisfied.

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1722

The place of our camp was called Lap-sa-ru and was inhabited by several families of

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nomads who bred yaks and sheep. In one of the tents we met two blacksmiths from the

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Tsang Province, who were working for the local nomads. The *yu-pön* did not

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arrive and we were greatly irritated by his conduct and deliberate ignoring of orders

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from Lhasa.

1727

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**April 17, 1928**

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April 17. We started in the forenoon, for there was the usual delay with fresh animals

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and new drivers. We crossed the Lap-sa-ru plain in a southwesterly direction and skirted

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the Lap-chung Lake along its southeastern extremity. The lake is situated at an

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elevation of 17,037 feet. Tibetan antelopes were observed on its shores.

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1737

Not far from camp we came across another group of megalithic monuments. It was partly

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buried by drifting sand so that only the points of the menhirs forming the alinement

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were visible above the ground. I tried to excavate one of the stones, but it went deep

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into the ground and my excavations attracted the attention of the local people, who, as

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all Tibetans, are very concerned with not allowing the gods of the soil to be disturbed

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by excavations. I had to stop and leave the investigation for the future, when the

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Government of Tibet would sanction scientific excavations on its territory. What ritual

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was performed before these stone altars and cromlechs, we shall be able to tell only

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after a thorough search of the voluminous Bön-po literature. The great Bön collections

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of sacred texts, some three hundred volumes in all, still remain a closed book for us.

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Undoubtedly from some of the texts on rituals incorporated in them, we would learn the

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precise significance of menhirs, cromlechs, and alignments.

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The *yu-pön* or local chief met us on the way. He was a huge fellow with matted

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hair, attired in a large, dirty sheepskin coat. He stuck out his tongue in the approved

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fashion, and reported that he had never received the official letter about our coming.

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He had no yaks at his disposal and was unable to help us. After a lengthy conversation,

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in which all the members of the expedition took part, we succeeded in persuading him to

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hire yaks from a caravan carrying salt. He agreed to do that and yaks were hired from

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traders with an understanding that the animals would have to go to Saga. Late in the

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evening the *yu-pön* changed his mind and decided to furnish us with his own

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animals.

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We camped at the foot of a ridge, forming the southeastern rim of the Lap-sa-ru Plain.

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From here there were two routes leading to Saga dzong, a short one across the Lug La,

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and a longer one skirting the mountain range. The short route was reported to be still

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blocked by snow and we therefore decided to proceed by the longer route. The official

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letter sent from Lhasa was lost and no traces of it were to be found. I had to write

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another letter myself and seal it with our personal seal. A dispatch rider was sent off

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at once and to our amazement the new arrangement worked just as well as the old one. The

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place of our camp bore the name of Rong-se.

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**April 18, 1928** [Tsuk-chung](/#m=9/29.60272/85.19125&l=Gs&p=289/o) *Through: Gyegong La Pass*

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April 18. We started at eight o'clock this morning and crossed the low, sandy spur

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lying immediately southeast of our camp. From here the track followed an ascending

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valley, past a small lake still frozen hard. From the lake we turned into the valley

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leading to the Gyegong La, and stretching southwest. The valley is known for its

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numerous hot sulphur springs and is called Memo chu-tsen. Dr. Sven Hedin mentions these

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springs. He found their temperature to be 93.6°C.

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The ascent toward the Gyegong La (18,012 feet) was rather trying. The valley at the foot

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of the pass was covered by deep snow, and we experienced some difficulty in finding our

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way through bowlders and snow. After four hours of tiresome climbing, we reached the

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summit of the pass. A grandiose mountain panorama unfolded before us—a sea of mountain

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peaks that stood sparkling in the sun. "Oh, God! There is no end of

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mountains!" exclaimed Golubin, dismounting from his horse and preparing for the

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descent. We all stood for a moment looking at this unforgettable scenery. The descent

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was steep and part of the way the track led over the ice of a frozen mountain torrent.

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In some places great blocks of ice obstructed the way. It was difficult for our unshod

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animals. For another four hours we went down the gorge. Frequently we had to cross the

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frozen stream over ice bridges. The country became more and more intersected.

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We were approaching the peripheral regions of Tibet with their deep-cut mountain valleys

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and powerful streams. Nowhere was to be seen the dreary undulating landscape of the

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north Tibetan highlands; now there were instead rocky massifs, narrow mountain valleys,

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and towering ranges. On reaching a place where three important valleys met, we turned

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toward the southeast and camped for the night in a valley called Tsuk-chung. No traces

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of encampments or tents prepared for our use were to be seen. We sent out men to

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reconnoiter the locality and if possible to bring back some men, who could give us

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information about the local condition and furnish us with the necessary supplies.

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1804

After two hours of waiting, we noticed with our field glasses a human figure walking

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rapidly on the opposite side of the valley. The figure was moving toward us and proved

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to be an old man with an arrogant, unpleasant face, who at once started to tell us that

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it was none of his business to assist us and that the Government had no right to send us

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into the wilderness. We informed him that we had to get caravan animals at any price and

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that he had to furnish us with fuel and grain for our animals or bring the local headman

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to our camp. The old man was obstinate and said that he had no yaks, no fuel, and no

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tents to spare. Our Tibetans became very excited and threatened to arrest him and hand

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him over to the local authorities at Saga dzong. The man met their words with perfect

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composure and retorted that since everything had been taken away from him by the

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Government, he had nothing against losing his head.

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We were relieved from the necessity of arresting the obstinate old man by the arrival of

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a tall, fine looking man, who was a former lama of the Chamdo Monastery in western Kham,

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and was now acting as local headman in the locality. He at once understood our difficult

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situation and ordered the recalcitrant old man to bring a tent and some fuel and

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moreover promised to talk with the *yu-pön* of Bum-pa about the caravan animals

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for the next day. Toward evening two tents were pitched and big camp fires lit the scene

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of the camp. The *yu-pön* arrived only at dusk but suddenly refused to camp with

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us and instead camped behind a low, sandy spur. He promised to come in the evening after

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sunset and talk the matter over. The headman of Tsuk-chung and our Tibetan guide

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considered his actions to be strange and were afraid that he would try to escape with

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his yaks during the night. We waited for him until ten o'clock in the evening, but

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as he did not come, we decided to send a man after him. The man soon brought back the

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answer that the headman of Bum-pa informed us that he had no business in our camp and

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that he was unable to keep his word and transport our baggage to Saga dzong.

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No time could be lost, if we intended to proceed to Saga dzong without delay. To be kept

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in the desert without fuel and food supplies for men and animals, meant death to the

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whole caravan. We had to take intensive action to protect our interests and to insure

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the prompt execution of the governmental orders. I reported the situation to Professor

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Roerich and received instructions to follow strict measures for our protection. We

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decided to send the local headman of Tsuk-chung and our Tibetan guide to the camp of the

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Bum-pa headman and request him to appear in person in our camp. As the Tsuk-chung

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headman was afraid to proceed alone, half of our guard was sent with him in order to

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arrest the headman in case of necessity.

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When our small detachment approached the Bum-pa headman's camp, we found him sitting

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at a camp fire surrounded by a circle of thirty armed followers. All rose to their feet,

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when the Tsuk-chung headman approached the fire. Our men were lined up a few feet behind

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him, ready for any emergency. The Tsuk-chung headman reproached the *yu-pön* for

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not coming to our camp to settle the matter in a friendly way and asked him to come and

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discuss the situation. Dead silence followed his words. A murmur rose from the crowd of

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armed yak drivers and suddenly one of them snatched out his sword. The nomads were

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apparently ready to resist with armed force. Portniagin, who stood near the man with the

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sword, suddenly pulled out his revolver and planted its muzzle in his face. This had a

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magical effect. The crowd started backward. Our men stood ready to open fire if

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necessary and the extreme tension continued for a few moments more. Then suddenly some

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one in the crowd ran back and the whole force stampeded toward the hills, leaving the

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*yu-pön* sitting at the camp fire. He was arrested and taken under guard to our

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camp where a general meeting was at once summoned inside the big tent of the Tsuk-chung

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headman.

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Armed sentries were posted about the camp, for we had received information that the yak

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drivers were discussing the possibility of attacking the camp to recapture their

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headman. Two sentries were placed at the entrance of the tent which served as temporary

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courtroom. The *yu-pön* was brought inside and placed under a strong, armed

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guard. When everyone had taken his place, the Tsuk-chung headman once more reproached

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the Bum-pa headman for his arrogant conduct and asked him to close the matter amicably.

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The obstinate *yu-pön* once more refused to comply with our wishes and was silent

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to all our proposals. According to him he had nothing to do with the Lhasan Government,

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which was far distant from his district. I told him that unless he agreed to our

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demands, he would be arrested and handed over to the Lhasan authorities for proper

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punishment for his rebellious words and actions. I gave him ten minutes to think the

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matter over. The man lowered his head and sat for a while thinking, then rose from his

1869

seat and said, "No, no," and sat down again. He was accordingly declared under

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arrest and his hands were tied behind his back with a leather rope. Two guards were

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posted to keep watch over him during the night.

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A strong guard remained in camp all during the night and the Bum-pa tribesmen who

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attempted several times to penetrate the camp were warned to keep away. Late in the

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evening the *yu-pön* agreed to supply us with caravan animals and to keep his

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word. His only condition was that we should set him free and forget about the incident.

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The man probably got frightened and understood that we were in earnest. He was therefore

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set free, but had to remain inside our camp for the night.

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**April 19, 1928** [Saga dzong](/#m=9/29.4884/85.11735&l=Gs&p=146/o) *Through: Tsuk-chung Pass*

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April 19. We started at seven o'clock and retraced our steps, until we had reached a

1886

narrow mountain glen leading toward the pass, Tsuk-chung La (18,000 feet). Not far from

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the entrance into the glen we discovered another cromlech with an alignment of stone

1888

slabs. As in Lap-sa-ru, the stones were half covered with drifting sand. The local

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headman had no knowledge of the stones and according to him they were so arranged by

1890

some *lha* or local deity.

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The ascent to the pass was very steep and our poor animals had a very hard time. They

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often had to stop to regain their wind. From the summit one could see three valleys, the

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Tsuk-chung on the northeast, the Tsuk-chen to the west, and Saga dzong on the south and

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southwest. On the western and eastern horizon rose the mighty snow peaks of the

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Trans-Himalayas. Most prominent among them was the beautiful peak, Saga Jo-chung, which

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was clearly visible among the peaks forming the eastern continuation of the mountain

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range in which the Tsuk-chung Pass was situated. The descent was steep and all had to

1899

walk down the sandy slopes. A broad mountain gorge led into the basin of the Chorta

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tsang-po, a tributary stream of the Brahmaputra. Far to the south we could see in the

1901

hazy atmosphere the snowy outlines of the northern offshoots of the Himalayas, on the

1902

Nye-lam side.

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The plain over which we were riding was covered by gravel. Grass was scant and cattle

1906

were nowhere to be seen. Saga dzong was hidden by a low, sandy spur projecting into the

1907

plain. We obtained the first view of the place from the top of the spur. Saga was a

1908

motley collection of dirty, stone hovels, and was built on a spot open to all the winds

1909

and gales of the Tibetan upland. Outside the village we were met by the local officials,

1910

who conducted us to a camp prepared for our use. Two tents were pitched southeast of the

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*dzong* and a crowd of local people and soldiers of the small detachment

1912

garrisoning the fort were in attendance. Notwithstanding the fact that the officials had

1913

received special instructions direct from Lhasa, nothing was ready and we were told to

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stay for three days at Saga to give the authorities time to procure the caravan animals.

1915

The Governor of the fort was in Lhasa and the place was ruled by his personal

1916

representative, the *nyer-wa* or treasurer of the *dzong*, who also was

1917

away on an official tour in the district. A messenger had been sent to him, requesting

1918

him to return at once to the fort. Meanwhile the petty officials resident in the fort

1919

refused to discuss the situation.

1920

1921

Our caravan reached the camp late at night and great anxiety was felt for our camels

1922

which were delayed on the pass. At about eleven o'clock that night three camels and

1923

their driver reached the camp and he reported that the fourth camel had died on the

1924

summit of the pass.